new
February 13 Issue_002houston 1/22/13 7:19 PM Page 59
new
ÉTOILE CUISINE ET BAR CUISINE FRENCH | CHEF PHILIPPE VERPIAND www.etoilecuisine.com 1101-11 UPTOWN PARK BLVD. | 832.668.5808 TUCKED INTO UPTOWN PARK IN THE FORMER SPACE THAT HOUSED THIERRY ANDRE’S, YOU WILL FIND THIS QUAINT FRENCH GEM. Although the space is small, they’ve done an excellent job making the most they can out of it with not only a dining room but also a bar. Charming during the day, the space must glow at night with the help of several chandeliers that dangle from above. The great use of space isn’t the only thing you notice but also the amazing smells all around you. You won’t be able to help taking a peek at all the dishes served along your perimeter. The space is so pleasing that even dining alone would be an option. At the moment though, the place is bustling so a table for one might be hard to score. The lunch menu ranges from $6-$28. It includes classics from escargots to coq au vin but is presented in an approachable fashion. What’s missing from étoile is the intimidating factor. We started with their homemade pâté and the red beets and fried goat cheese salad. The pâté is dotted with dried prunes and served alongside a bed of greens and cornichons. It’s not a heavy pâté that usually comes with loads of bread but a light version that pairs ideally with just a bit of greens, almost a salad fashion. If you are a fan of beets their Red Beet Salad is ideal. Thin slices of beets are topped with pickled red onion and then with organic spring greens with a sphere of fried goat cheese on top. The goat cheese is crusted in thin almond slices that keep the creamiest of cheese hidden. The classic combination is expertly prepared. For lunch we had the Moules Mariniére and the Duck Leg Confit. These are the largest moules (mussels) I have ever been served. Several large moules come swimming in a white wine cream sauce with parsley and shallot. The masterful dish is not only aesthetically pleasing but also a delight. The moules come served with a side of crispy pomme frites (French fries) and a garlic aioli. The best of both worlds! Should you be in the mood for a hearty meal, the Duck Leg Confit provides that richness at a decent serving size allowing you to get back to work just as wide-eyed as you left. A crispy duck leg portion is placed atop fingerling potatoes that have simmered in an onion and port wine demi-glaze, and is served with a side of organic spring greens just to cut the richness a bit. It’s divine! The crispy shell on the duck, with the flavorful potato and bright greens, is the perfect balance of savory for a lunch dish. End your meal with their beautiful Thin Apple Tart. It’s a small tart with “a la mode” fleur de sel drizzled with exquisite caramel sprinkled with powdered sugar. It’s just a touch of sweetness to add a smile to your face. Fall in love with quaint, approachable French cuisine at étoile for lunch or dinner. duck leg confit
february 13 | www.002mag.com .59