Themed Dossier Zurich No. 5

Taste of Zurich #VisitZurich

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Why a Themed Dossier?

This dossier on one single topic is intended to inspire journalists to discover Zurich and the many stories it has to tell. It includes profiles of people who shape our town in diverse ways, each of whom shares insights into their lives and working environments. These people come in as many different facets as the city itself.

Their stories give ideas to everyone who would like to visit Zurich and pursue their own research in greater depth. Journalists and editorial departments are welcome to use these texts and photos for free (source: ZĂźrich Tourism). Additional photos are available for downloading at zuerich.com/themeddossier

Preface Whether

no-frills

street

food,

award-winning

The people featured here are creative minds and

gourmet restaurants, experiments with people’s

visionaries who are making a decisive impact on the

taste buds, or manufactories that are reviving age-

city in terms of cuisine – whether with science-based

old traditions: Zurich is a city full of culinary delights

forays into flavors, with experimental molecular

and gastronomes who courageously and creatively

techniques for mixing drinks, with ultra-sharp knife

pursue unconventional ideas

blades, with temporary pop-

and trends. Just like our

up restaurants, with traditional

protagonists on the following

confectionery, or with a food

pages.

festival encompassing around 100 mouth-watering events.

All of them have one thing

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in common: Each one gave

This festival – FOOD ZURICH

up their original profession

– plays a part in enabling

to devote themselves with all

Zurich’s creatives to remain

their heart and soul to their

true to their passion. Here,

passion or hobby. What nicer

over a period of 11 days, these

compliment could there be for

master craftsmen and women

a city than to be regarded by

have the opportunity to show

the up-coming generation as

the public at large who they

a fertile ground that can be cultivated and formed?

are and what they have to offer. FOOD ZURICH

More than that, it is an accolade for both sides – for

celebrates eating culture at the highest level, with

the young, wild entrepreneurs who are successfully

events ranging from cookery courses to a truffle

realizing their vision in Zurich, as well as for this

hunt, through to a grand closing party. Come along

exceptional city that is giving them the space to grow.

and be inspired.

Martin Sturzenegger, CEO Zürich Tourism

Street Food Festival at the freight depot

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Themed Dossier Zurich | Taste of Zurich

Pages 18 – 21

The Lady Behind the Bar | Jennifer Ann Hunziker

Pages 6 – 9

Pages 22 – 25

The Taste Laboratory | Susanne Tobler

Sweet Tradition | Claudio & Silvan Leibacher

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Pages 10 – 13

Pages 26 – 29

The Food Festival | Alexandra Heitzer & Simon Mouttet

Living on a Knife’s Edge | Marco Guldimann

Pages 14 – 17

The Zurich Pop-Up Star | Valentin “ValeFritz” Diem

Pages 32 – 35 ZURICH-NORD

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Information, Map, Imprint & Contact

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The Taste Laboratory | Susanne Tobler What do physicists, electrical engineers and IT specialists have to do with good food? Very little, would probably be your initial reaction. However, at her culinary laboratory, the Tastelab, Susanne Tobler shows that without science, cooking would not be possible in the first place.

For physicist Susanne Tobler, science and cooking belong inexorably together. To demonstrate this, she puts her conversation partners to the test: “What happens to the proteins in a piece of meat when it’s being cooked?” Generally, no answer is forthcoming. And it is exactly this lack of awareness that the Tastelab concerns itself with. “For many people, cooking is something rigid and inflexible,” Susanne explains. “They learn it from their parents or in a cookery course, but very few actually think about why they do or do not

do certain things when they’re cooking.” The young

more in a pressure cooker than just boiled potatoes,”

physicist aims to explain to both amateurs and

Susanne says. “A sweet potato, for example, has a

professional gastronomes that applying a scientific

high level of sugar, which caramelizes at the correct

approach to everyday cooking can in fact be quite

temperature of 112 °C. In a normal pan, the sweet

useful. And she is convinced of one thing: “People

potato would burn, but in the pressure cooker it

who know what actually happens when you braise,

doesn’t. And the result – a sweet, nutty flavor – is

fry or roast food produce better results.”

incredibly tasty;” she enthuses.

In order to share her knowledge, Susanne Tobler

“The response to the Tastelab has been fantastic,”

has developed the Tastelab – a pop-up restaurant

reports Susanne. People without any scientific

that made its first appearance in May 2016

background had numerous “aha” experiences,

on the terrace of the Swiss Federal College of Technology ETH – offering room for 120 guests and a spectacular 8

“You can make a lot more in a pressure cooker than just boiled potatoes.”

while scientists wanted to discuss various formulae: “With

the

radishes,

fermented we

also

presented the chemical

view over Zurich’s Old Town. For a period of four

formula for the fermentation process. When writing

weeks, the restaurant was a place of cooking,

this on the individual mini-blackboards, someone left

eating – and imparting knowledge.

out the minus sign on one of the molecules. It goes without saying that this particular board was given to

But anyone who associates molecular gastronomy

a science professor,” she laughs.

with test tubes and dry ice is mistaken. “Anyone can make perfect little spheres and creamy froth

Susanne is continuing to make plans; besides

toppings if they know how,” Susanne explains. “Our

requests for books and events, she is already

approach is quite different, and unlike molecular

thinking about the next Tastelab: “You could set up

menus our dishes look quite normal,” she smiles.

five labs just on the theme of wine. Or coffee, which

While at lunchtime the Tastelab creates more simple

is a very multi-faceted product.”

dishes mainly for students and campus staff, in the evenings guests are treated to seven-course menus

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and so-called “science contents” – graphically

FOODLAB GmbH

illustrated scientific facts – which are served along

Siewerdtstrasse 10

with the food in the form of small blackboards, printed

CH-8050 Zürich

balloons or video clips. In this way, guests are told

info@tastelab.ch

exactly what is on their plate. “You can make a lot

tastelab.ch

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The Food Festival | Alexandra Heitzer & Simon Mouttet The festival, FOOD ZURICH, is a dream come true for all foodies, gourmets, truffle hunters, bee enthusiasts, partygoers, and people who are simply hungry. Festival organizers Alexandra and Simon relate how a spontaneous idea developed into the largest food event in Switzerland.

Alexandra Heitzer and Simon Mouttet make a great team: they laugh a lot, finish each other’s sentences, and can look back on a successful year. Together they have staged their very first FOOD ZURICH – an eleven-day festival that according to Simon “brings together everyone that has anything to do with gastronomy in Zurich”. Quite a tall order, one might think. But in retrospect, Simon was right. Everything was there that gourmets could wish for: prize-winning top chefs, manufactories, restaurants, clubs and

societies, and street food stands. In the course of

a few hours before the party began, Simon could

more than 100 different events held over a period

hardly imagine being able to pull it off. “During the

of 11 days, these gastronomes presented to the

early morning the market is a hive of activity, so

public at large everything that Zurich has to offer

we weren’t able to get going until 8.00am.That

in terms of cuisine. Events were held throughout

left us just four hours to get everything set up. It

the city and in the most diverse of locations:

was crazy. When our trucks arrived, I thought to

Sauerkraut

Stampf

seminars,

cookery

courses, truffle hunts, food-tastings, dinners under the starry sky,

“You could spend the whole evening feasting your way through the three huge halls of the wholesale market.”

myself: How on earth are we going to be able to

create

something

worthwhile here in just a few hours? Then

long communal brunch tables, and countless

at 11 o’clock, I thought: yes, things are slowly

activities focusing on sharing food.

coming together, and I glanced quickly at the tram stop, where people were already flooding into the

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“In addition, we organized a number of FOOD

market hall.” On that day, Simon’s pedometer

ZURICH events,” explains Alexandra. The opening

recorded a record-breaking 45,000 steps.

evening held in Zurich’s centrally located, oldest

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department store, Jelmoli, and in particular the

It goes without saying that the FOOD ZURICH festival

grand FOOD ZURICH closing party at Zurich’s

will be repeated in September 2017. However, the

wholesale market, exceeded all expectations. “I

organizers are not planning to expand further. “Of

was surprised at how successful they were,” beams

course it would be great if our flags would hang on

Alexandra, and Simon nods in confirmation. Around

the Bahnhofsbrücke bridge downtown, like at the

6,000 people attended the closing party – families,

Street Parade or the Zurich Film Festival,” Simon

gourmets, hipsters, grandmothers, tourists, locals

and Alexandra laugh, “but we first have to earn

from the region, restaurant critics, food bloggers,

our spurs. That having been said, we’ve already

friends and work colleagues. And they were all highly

got some great ideas for this year – so watch this

impressed by what was awaiting them: parked

space!”

next to the Saltz restaurant housed in the luxury hotel, The Dolder Grand, was a simple street-food

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truck – with both offering their culinary delicacies

FOOD ZURICH

at low prices. “You could spend the whole evening

Stampfenbachstrasse 52

feasting your way through the three huge halls of the

CH-8006 Zürich

wholesale market,” recalls Alexandra, and Simon

info@foodzurich.com

adds: “Everyone was elated!” In actual fact, just

foodzurich.com

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The Zurich Pop-Up Star | Valentin “ValeFritz” Diem At first glance, Valentin Diem looks like a vivacious hipster, with his round glasses, moustache and woolen sweater. The image is completed by his refined taste buds – for he is the creator of unforgettable culinary adventures.

Valentin Diem is better known under his pseudonym, ValeFritz. Under this name, over the last four years he has become one of the most creative and industrious pop-up gastronomes in the city. His concept restaurants, Wood Food and Hood Food, are invariably quickly booked out. So it is just as well that his street food outlet, Soi Thai, operates according to the principle of first come, first served.

Thirty-one-year-old Valentin Diem has no formal

that he is already doing so: while three years ago,

training as a chef or suchlike. “I studied Economics

Wood Food was one of the first pop-ups in the city,

at the University of St. Gallen. During my studies, I

his temporary restaurants currently cater for over

sometimes got bored, so spent a lot of time in the

1,000 enthusiastic guests. But one thing is clear to

kitchen cooking. Before long, I was cooking for my

the gastronome: “The food itself is only part of the

friends and friends of friends. Then at some stage

overall experience. If the service or the ambiance

I finished my studies – but didn’t stop cooking,”

are not up to scratch, guests tend to remember

Valentin laughs. Soon, his passion became his profession. “I had the opportunity to run a Bed & Breakfast guesthouse for a year. My business

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“On the opening day, we didn’t even have any change, and I cooked all the meals for the first time in my life.”

the negative things and in the worst case don’t come back.” It is for this reason that his pop-up restaurants are so outof-the-ordinary:

in

the

partner and I had no idea about anything,” he

case of Wood Food, not only did Valentin and his

laughs, and continues: “On the opening day, we

team come up with the appropriate decor, but also

didn’t even have any change, and I cooked all the

designed their own ceramic crockery and even

meals for the first time in my life. Nevertheless, it was

wrote a cookery book featuring the menus. A local

an invaluable experience for me.”

brewery created the “Wood Brew” to perfectly complement the food. And at the Soi Thai, guests

Soon Valentin set up his catering firm, ValeFritz, and

feel that they are in far-off Asia rather than downtown

increasingly established himself as a highly respected

Zurich and after their meal go out onto the streets of

chef. “However, I didn’t want to always just work as

the City on the Limmat as if they have just returned

a contract chef, so I began to create my own event

from a foreign land. Thus at ValeFritz the focus is not

formats.” The results of his efforts were extremely

just on the food, but on the overall experience for all

diverse and successful pop-up concepts. At Wood

the senses.

Food, he mainly cooks with wood, fire, smoke, tar and charcoal, while at Hood Food, the main focus is placed on top-quality regional products. And then there is also Soi Thai – a bustling street kitchen that

CONTACT

completely recreates the Thai original, from the food

ValeFritz food & events

right through to the furnishings.

Bertastrasse 2 CH-8003 Zürich

With ValeFritz, Valentin aims to significantly shape

hunger@valefritz.ch

Zurich’s gastronomic culture. His success shows

ValeFritz.ch

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The Lady Behind the Bar | Jennifer Ann Hunziker Cocktail lovers are delighted when she is behind the bar. As one of the best female barkeepers in Switzerland, Jennifer Ann Hunziker surprises anyone who is open to try new things with her outof-the-ordinary concoctions.

“I got into bar-keeping quite by accident,” relates bubbly, red-haired Jennifer Ann Hunziker. “Until then, I had no idea just how creative you can be behind the bar.” As a qualified restaurateur and the daughter of two restaurant owners, Jennifer Ann Hunziker spent many years working in various restaurants in Zurich.

But she wanted to expand her skills and experience and at some stage to leave the gastronomy business.

And so she decided to study for a business diploma in event management.” I worked in various bars in

the city to finance my studies,” Jennifer explains.

techniques. “Sometimes I am trying out new drinks

And so it was that the manager of the Zurich

until 5 o’clock in the morning and I watch videos

cocktail bar, Raygrodski, came to hear about her.

of other mixologists on YouTube.” In addition, she

“He asked me if I wanted to work for him – and I

loves using techniques from the kitchen behind

haven’t left the bar ever since,” she grins.

the bar and surprising her guests with new taste sensations. “In the Rooftop Bar, we have a drink

Her new boss was so convinced of her skills

that is served with candy floss, which we prepare

that without further ado he entered her in one of

before the guest’s eyes. Everyone else looks on

the largest international bartender competitions, the

World

Class

Competition. “I was really nervous because I didn’t

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“I’m a bit freaky and love fire and crazy molecular experiments.”

in amazement and then they all want one too, even though they don’t even know what’s in it.”

regard myself as one of the front-runners,” Jennifer

Nowadays, Jennifer is Bar Manager at the Rooftop

Ann recalls. However, she overcame her fear and

Restaurant & Bar – a locale belonging to Michel

at the last minute submitted her cocktail recipe.

Péclard. “I always coordinate my creations with

Her “Lola Tender Loving Care” – a drink dedicated

the kitchen staff so that they harmonize perfectly

to her grandmother and reminiscent of French

with the Asian-style food that is served,” she

toast with maple syrup and bacon – impressed the

explains.” Also, fortunately Zurich has very open-

jury, and she was the only woman to rank among

minded, daring and experiment-happy guests.

the top 12 Swiss bartenders. “I marinated the

I’m a bit freaky and love fire and crazy molecular

bacon in rum to extract the smell,” she explains.

experiments. You can see that from our menu –

“Then it was refined with an apricot & cardamom

you certainly won’t find “Sex on the Beach” there.

marmalade. I then cooked the bacon on a small

Do people actually still drink that?”, she asks, and

grill in front of the jury – which included Alex

gives a loud laugh.

Kratena, one of the best bartenders around.” The show element is an important part of the job, says Jennifer. “You have to particularly prove yourself if you’re a woman. A Negroni cocktail wouldn’t have

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impressed anyone.”

Rooftop Restaurant & Bar Bahnhofstrasse 74

“I think innovation is important, even with spirits,”

CH-8001 Zürich

Jennifer says. As a result, the young bartender

info@ooo-zh.ch

is constantly experimenting with new flavors and

ooo-zh.ch

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Sweet Tradition | Claudio & Silvan Leibacher In the basement of the house where they grew up, the Leibacher brothers are reviving two age-old, almost forgotten traditional handicrafts: baking gingerbread and carving models – wooden boards with indented traditional motifs, into which the dough is pressed. And what they produce is hugely successful: Leibacher Biber.

To get things straight from the start: in Switzerland, the word “Biberli” (lit. little beaver) does not just refer to the cute creatures that live near rivers, but also to sweet-tasting gingerbread specialties. Unlike the traditional gingerbread that is known throughout Europe, the “Appenzeller Biber” – named after the canton where they originate – are often filled with honey and an almond paste.

But what does all this have to do with the brothers,

The decision to work together on Project Biber

Claudio and Silvan? Claudio explains:” I’m an avid

has paid off, as is now clear to see: particularly at

collector – which is probably something to do with

Christmas time, production in the small basement

the fact that I studied History at university. So when

bakery runs at full capacity. The family home is

I had the opportunity to buy some old, hand-carved

filled with the mouth-watering aromas of honey,

Biber models from an Appenzell bakery, I jumped

almonds and spices. The team work virtually

at the chance.” But it didn’t stop there: “I’d loved

around the clock, in three shifts from early in the

baking since I was a child and I wondered if I would

morning until late at night, and they have even had

be able to make a Biber myself.”

As it transpired, he was.

But before he was able to set up his own business

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“When I had the opportunity to buy some old, hand-carved Biber models, I jumped at the chance.”

to take on extra staff.

The

Leibacher

Biber

are made by hand from start to finish – from the carving of the wooden models to the typical

and achieve his current success, Claudio sold his

honey & almond paste filling made using regional

first gingerbread specialties in the village store next

ingredients, to the gentle baking process, right

door. By this time, he had learned to carve his own

through to packing the products in the well-known

wooden molds to make a variety of designs, and he

blue & white boxes.

delivered his home-made bakery products in rustic grey cardboard boxes.

Nowadays, the Leibacher Biber can be found in many of Zurich’s stores, and the brothers are

That gave his younger brother Silvan an idea. The

expanding further. For contrary to popular opinion,

Economics student thought that the boxes looked

gingerbread is not only consumed at Christmas. In

like shoeboxes – and so he spent a long time looking

Switzerland, “Biberli” are often enjoyed as a snack

at suitable shapes, sizes and designs until finally the

or eaten as a dessert accompanied by a coffee.

present-day typical Leibacher box was born. At this point it was clear: while they were very different in character, the two brothers complemented each other perfectly. For where the expertise of the baker

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ended, the knowledge of the salesman began.

Leibacher Biber-Manufaktur

There soon followed a logo, a website and an online

Stapferstrasse 1

shop; the basement was gradually converted into a

CH-8615 Wermatswil

bakery and the first employee – the family’s former

info@biber-manufaktur.ch

domestic help – was hired.

biber-manufaktur.ch

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Living on a Knife’s Edge | Marco Guldimann Marco Guldimann always was a keen inventor. He started by making his own tools, which made everyday tasks easier for him and finally led to him taking up his present profession: that of bladesmith.

When he talks about his kitchen knives, his face lights up. And he certainly has plenty to tell, this bladesmith who originally trained as a chef and discovered his great passion more or less by accident. His kitchen tools are a far cry from the run-of-the-mill knives that can be found in any supermarket. On the contrary: Gudimann’s knives are all crafted by hand – from the blade right through to the wooden handle. These unique items are designed to give pleasure to their owners for a long time to come. For what Marco Guldimann

creates is, so to speak, the Rolls Royce of kitchen

the material. And my anvil!”, he laughs out loud. “In

knives. Even though in his words it sounds rather

those days, I simply had a vice with an anvil clamped

more modest: “If my customer is happy, then I’m

to it, which of course was not nearly strong enough

happy, too.”

to bear the weight of the blows.” But all beginnings are hard, and Marco Guldimann refused to become

Thirty-year-old Guldimann originally learnt a different

disheartened. Gradually he taught himself everything

craft than that required to make sharp knives: in

that he needed to know, spoke with experienced

Freiburg, he trained to become a chef. “I’ve always enjoyed cooking.

Particularly

to

feed

myself, because I get

bladesmiths, and valiantly

“It seems crazy when I look back now. I had no idea about the material.

And my anvil!”

rather grouchy when I’m hungry,” he laughs. After

continued experimenting.

For example, he worked on a propane tank that he had found in a scrapyard,

and also tested ceramic materials for their durability.

a few jobs here and there, he finally came to Zurich

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to work at the Hotelfachschule Belvoirpark, with the

Today, 10 years later, Guldimann can be proud of

aim of broadening his skills and knowledge in the

himself – for his kitchen knives are highly sought

field of gastronomy. “I immediately fell in love with

after. Renowned Zurich chefs such as Jacky Donatz

the city of Zurich, and after leaving the Fachschule I

or Rebecca Clopath use these high-end professional

simply stayed here,” he says.

knives, which have the uncompromising design of Japanese knives coupled with Swiss precision

Already during his time at the Hotelfachschule,

and

Guldimann began – first in his parents’ garden and

and professional chefs alike can attend one of

then in his own small workshop – to fashion things

Guldimann’s knife-sharpening courses, where they

by hand. “I’d always liked working with my hands

can also sharpen a knife of their choice. Under the

and repairing or inventing things. What is particularly

guidance of professional bladesmith Guldimann,

interesting to me is how I get to the end result, and

they thus produce the perfect blade.

aesthetics.

In

addition,

whether I could perhaps even make a particular object myself.”

CONTACT Messerschmiede Guldimann

In 2006,Guldimann began, amidst rose bushes

Luegislandstrasse 105

and tomato plants, to forge metal objects – initially

CH-8051 Zürich

using charcoal and a vacuum cleaner. “It seems

mg@dasmesser.ch

crazy when I look back now. I had no idea about

dasmesser.ch

amateur

cooks

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A summer evening in Gerolds Garten, Zurich-West

Further Information

Map of Zurich

Susanne Tobler | FOODLAB GmbH tastelab.ch

Marco Guldimann Messerschmiede Guldimann Luegislandstrasse 105 CH-8051 Zürich

toblertastes.ch facebook.com/tastelabzurich ZURICH-NORD

instagram.com/tastelab.ch instagram.com/toblertastes

Susanne Tobler FOODLAB GmbH Siewerdtstrasse 10 CH-8050 Zürich

Alexandra Heitzer & Simon Mouttet | FOOD ZURICH foodzurich.com

Alexandra Heitzer, Simon Mouttet FOOD ZURICH Stampfenbachstrasse 52 CH-8006 Zürich

facebook.com/foodzurich instagram.com/foodzurich Valentin Diem | ValeFritz food & events 32

ValeFritz.ch hoodfood.ch soithai.ch

LIMMAT Valentin Diem ValeFritz food & events Bertastrasse 2 CH-8003 Zürich

ZURICH-WEST

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TOWN CENTER

woodfood.ch

Leibacher Biber-Manufaktur Stapferstrasse 1 CH-8615 Wermatswil

instagram.com/valefritz Jennifer Ann Hunziker | Rooftop Restaurant & Bar ooo-zh.ch facebook.com/ooo.zh Claudio & Silvan Leibacher | Leibacher Biber-Manufaktur biber-manufaktur.ch facebook.com/LeibacherBiberManufaktur instagram.com/leibacher_biber Marco Guldimann | Messerschmiede Guldimann dasmesser.ch

NIEDERDORF Claudio & Silvan Leibacher

SIHL Jennifer Ann Hunziker Rooftop Restaurant & Bar Bahnhofstrasse 74 CH-8001 Zürich

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Imprint & Contact © 2017 häberlein & mauerer ag for Zürich Tourism Photos: Adrian Bretscher | Hangar Ent. Group GmbH Text: Gretta Bott Graphics: Anita Lutz | Kristin Hoos CONTACT International Media Team

Zürich Tourism

Phone +41 44 215 40 96

Stampfenbachstrasse 52

media@zuerich.com

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Johanna Broese

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Rosenthaler Strasse 52

johanna.broese@haebmau.de

D-10178 Berlin

PRESS MATERIAL Information for media: zuerich.com/media Image gallery and video material: zuerich.com/images E-book and press material Themed Dossier: zuerich.com/themeddossier COPYRIGHT Pages 6 – 9 | FOODLAB GmbH: © Susanne Tobler Pages 14 – 17 | ValeFritz food & events: © Valentin Diem All other images: © Zürich Tourism SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/VisitZurich instagram.com/VisitZurich #VisitZurich The Viadukt arches at “Kreis 5” district in Zurich

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