Zipped Magazine Spring 2017

ZIPPED S PRING 2017

SPRING 2017

ISSUE 19 | ZIPPED MAGAZINE

BRIEFS 06 GET THE LOOK Powerful pastels and subtle sheer make the ultimate statement

08 EYES ON THE ’80S Fall back in time with these bold eye makeup trends

10 GET GLOSSY WITH K-BEAUTY The top five Korean skincare and beauty products you should be using

11 GUILT-FREE GLAM Make the swap to a vegan-verified makeup bag

FEATURES 12 ON THE CUSP OF CONTROVERSY The challenge of borrowing from other cultures

14 ART POP Student artworks spring fashion to life

22 THE BUSINESS OF INFLUENCE Filtering the reality of Instagram-sponsored content

24 TRUMPING THE FASHION INDUSTRY When runways become the new political platform

ENDINGS 26 PRINTED PLAYERS The bolder, the better with graphic prints and pops of color

36 TO THE MAX This season, minimal is no more

37 Q&A WITH SHARON CLOTT KANTER PEOPLE magazine’s deputy style director talks fashion and career advice 02

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top photographed by michael isenburg artwork “nocturne in the moonlight (collecting very sweetly)” by sunyoung lee middle left photographed by fiona lenz, modeled by sophia hoeke, hair & makeup by julia welch middle right photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by cheyenne lee and shuya xie, hair & makeup by jacqueline simpson and julia welch, cheyenne top by zara, shuya jacket by acne studios bottom photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by lili burch, top by zara, jacket by acne studios artwork “barriers” by dylan rheingold cover photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by shuya xie, hair & makeup by jacqueline simpson and julia welch, top by free people, skirt by american apparel inside back cover photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by shuya xie, hair & makeup by jacqueline simpson and julia welch, top by zara, jumpsuit by diane von furstenberg back cover photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by cheyenne lee and shuya xie, hair & makeup by jacqueline simpson and julia welch cheyenne top thrifted, pants by express, shuya top by brandy melville, scarf by brandy melville, pants by bcbgmaxazria ZIPPED

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YERIN KIM Editor-in-Chief NISHA STICKLES Executive Editor JACKIE HOMAN Managing Editor

BIANCA KIM Creative Director

FASHION & BEAUTY

FEATURES

DYLAN RHEINGOLD Fashion Assistant

MADISON BREAUX Features Editor

MARINA FERNANDEZ DE LA CUESTA Fashion Assistant

HANNAH MALACH Features Editor

ORIANE PLAYNER Fashion Stylist

ADRIAN LEE Art Director

MICHAEL ISENBURG Photo Director FIONA LENZ Photo Editor

WEB CONTENT

BUSINESS

PUBLIC RELATIONS

HALEY MILLAN Web Director

EVA NARUN Ad Director

LAINA PISANO PR Director

STACI SOSLOWITZ Web Editor

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PHOTO & DESIGN

ELIANA RONEY Associate Art Director

SARA JASKOT Web Editor

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ZOE MALLIAROS Fashion Director

LINDSAY CURRE Event Planner MELISSA CHESSHER Faculty Advisor

MEGAN SHELTON PR Assistant

KRISTEN HURLEY PR Assistant

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

photographed by fiona lenz

“We can’t become the people who sit and moan and ferment.

We have to be the people who are twisting and turning things into a solution that works.”

- Stella McCartney (Vogue magazine, March 2017)

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n the past few months, the world’s tumultuous events have made me want to crawl under my covers and click out of the news—but that’s the problem. Most of us have the tendency to steer clear of talking about the complexities we’re living in. With the upsets back home in Korea and here in the U.S., I’m realizing how important it is to address the real issue, whether through art, fashion, or writing.

The glamorous worlds of high fashion and fine art have long been interwined; it’s by no means something new. But more than simply creating wearable art, it’s all about making your own personal statement this season. Fashion designers, artists, and publications alike are playing a part in this culturally rich, politically-charged climate.

This issue, Zipped invites you to stay up-todate with what’s going on in the world and say your piece. Flaunt your own “Nevertheless, She Persisted” tee or pile on the prints (read up on tips

in To the Max, p. 36). Turn to page 24 and discover how rebellious designers have expressed their views this season (Trumping the Fashion Industry).

Or, learn what not to do, as the fashion industry still struggles with cultural appropriation (On the Cusp of Controversy, p. 12). Find inspiration in this issue’s ten-page fashion editorial—our own bold statement this season—to revamp your wardrobe with graphic prints and daring patterns. Or, take a cue from pages 14 to 21 to see how we married fashion and art to craft eye-catching, colorful looks (Art Pop).

Even in this political uncertainty, it’s time for all of us to step out of our comfort zones and express ourselves. I hope our spring issue encourages you to do just that.

Yerin Kim Editor-in-Chief

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BRIEFS

GET THE LOOK SAINT LAURENT 2017

BY KERRY PHELAN

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1. TOP $35.90, Zara; zara.com 2. SHOES $60.90, Zara; zara.com 3. SCRUNCHIES $12, Urban Outfitters; urbanoutfitters.com 4.

SHOES $52 Topshop; topshop.com 5. DRESS $39.90, Zara; zara.com 6. EARRINGS $15.90, Zara; zara.com

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’80 S REVIVAL

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Tame the loud, expressive statement pieces of the notorious decade with pastels and softer silhouettes.

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KENZO 2017

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SHEER & SEXY

Add a playful touch to your wardrobe with transparent layers. Designers flooded this season’s runways with seductively peekaboo garments.

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FENDI 2017

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5 1. SHOES $29.90, Zara; zara.com 2. TOP $39.90, Zara; zara.com 3. DRESS $39.99, H&M; hm.com 4. SKIRT $49.90, Zara; zara.com 5. CLUTCH $78, Free People; freepeople. com 6. SHOES $29.90, Zara; zara.com

LOUIS VUITTON 2017

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photographed by fiona lenz modeled by sophia hoeke hair & makeup by julia welch

sophia wears the high shine look.

BRIEFS

EYES ON THE ’80S Look to the decade of statements to bring vibrancy back to your stale routine.

BY MADISON BREAUX

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he allure of the dark smoky eye has died, so open your lids to something bolder: the daring ’80s. Madonna and Cyndi Lauper headlined the decade with their neon and glitter, moving past the conventionalism of neutral shadows and rosy cheeks. Venture into their world of eye-catching makeup with these unique techniques that guarantee a captivating look.

METALLICA

Dust on your own shiny aura with brilliant metallics. Bronze and silver are classic, reliable tones, while plum and dusty pink accentuate any eye color. Add the perfect amount of color and shine with Mary Kay’s eye palette in “City Sophisticate” ($24).

Whatever metallic shade you choose, pair it with a bright red lipstick for a face worthy of a Blondie music video.

HIGH SHINE

Designers like Oscar de la Renta and Balenciaga have long favored ephemeral, wet-looking eyelids. But there’s a fine line between your lids looking glossy and just sweaty. Shimmery cream eyeshadows— like butter LONDON’s Glazen Eye Gloss in “Bronzed” ($24)— keep your gloss in place and make the perfect base. Need to take baby steps? Go neutral with Milk Makeup’s Eye Vinyl in “Bridge” ($20) for high shine without the sticky feel. Layer clear lip balm on top of your base to set your color and provide long-lasting gloss.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

Sparkle without too much shimmer by adding hints of glitter in the crease. Urban Decay’s Liquid Moondust Eyeshadow’s lightweight formula layers easily and comes in eight different shades ($22).

Apply with your finger in order to disperse the glitter equally over your lids.

POP ART

This season, single pops of bright colors danced on model’s eyelids and brought the runways to life. From electric blue to neon yellow, these in-your-face pigments draw attention to the eyes for a fresh, wide-awake face. Focus on one signature color to use on your lids with Urban Decay’s Full Spectrum palette ($35), which comes with 21 different shades.

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BRIEFS

GUILT-FREE

GLAM

BY MARLÉNA AHEARN

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Lanolin, beeswax, carmine, and gelatin—these animalderived ingredients, commonly found in cosmetics and skincare, come with a price. In producing these byproducts, cosmetic manufacturers often abuse and exploit animals to produce as much as possible, as fast as possible. Fortunately, the switch to cruelty-free is much easier than you might think, as makeup brands have caught onto the vegan trend. Tattoo artist Kat Von D has begun overhauling her Sephora beauty line to make it 100 percent vegan. Urban Decay has followed suit—its newest releases are all vegan.

Follow these basics to achieve a guiltless makeup bag: look for cruelty-free or vegan certifications and read the ingredients carefully.

Bunny Certified Easily enough, you’ll often find products that say vegan or crueltyfree right on them. Cosmetic companies can choose to label products as vegan or get Leaping Bunny Certified. The Leaping Bunny Program is a coalition that evaluates products based on their ingredients, how they are made, and how the company does business. Although the Leaping Bunny Program specializes in cruelty in a product’s manufacturing, not all of its certified products are vegan. Your next step is to check the ingredients.

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Your makeup bag may promise a pretty boost, but that mascara wand wields a less-than-ideal truth for animals.

Animal Ingredients If the ingredients sound convoluted, it’s probably best to pass.

According to Environmental Health Perspectives, many of those unpronounceable ingredients can potentially harm people and the environment: think cancer-linked parabens and airpolluting petroleum. Luckily, there are lots of quality vegan products to help jumpstart your clean makeup bag.

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Common Ingredients to Avoid Beeswax, derived from bee habitats, of ten leaves hives destroyed. Opt for a synthetic alternative to protect these threatened insects.

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Lanolin is the greasy, sweat-like bui ldup from wool animals, like sheep. Skincare and lipsticks of ten contain lanolin.

Carmine is frequently used to color a makeup red. How? The pigment comes from crushed-up insects.

1. Milani’s Bella Eyes Gel Powder Eyeshadow ($3.99) 2. Urban Decay UD Pro brushes ($18 to $59) 3. Physician’s Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Jumbo Lash Mascara ($9.95) 4. N Y X Super Fat Eye Marker eyeliner ($10) 5. ColourPop Blush in “Birthday Suit” ($8) 6. Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in “Dolce Vita” ($27)

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Gelatin, made from animal bones, is most commonly found in skincare products, but can also be in primers.

BRIEFS

Since the days of BB cream, Korean beauty has transformed the skincare zeitgeist; fresh skin now rules.

Snail mucin, anyone? This trusted slime pays respects to—no surprise here—Korean beauty. K-beauty’s innovative approach in rejuvenating skin has proven itself with these products saturating American shelves. Freshen up your skin routine with novel ingredients for an unapologetically glossy face.

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1. MISSHA THE ORIGINAL TENSION PACT IN “PERFECT COVER,” coming soon to misshaus.com, $22; or amazon.com starting at $17.59

The cushion compact generated its own craze in the K-beauty market by fusing skincare and makeup into one, like a BB cream in compact form. The compact houses an air-puff applicator soaked in foundation. It provides sheer coverage with skincare benefits, including sunscreen and hydration. Try Missha’s buildable and non-oxidizing formula for a naturallooking color all day.

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2. INNISFREE IT’S REAL SQUEEZE MASK SHEET innisfreeworld.com, $1.20 per mask

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As one of the first ecocentric K-beauty brands, innisfree has 16 different masks in the It’s Real Squeeze mask collection. The triple-layered sheet masks feature ingredients like green tea, tangerine, and cactus, all from the South Korean island of Jeju.

3. ETUDE HOUSE WONDER PORE FRESHNER etudehouse.com, $11.70

If you struggle with large pores or blackheads, this seven-inone solution for intensive pore care is for you. The Wonder Pore Freshner’s peppermint extract cleans inside and outside of pores, while its acidic pH level balances sebum production for clear skin and improved elasticity. The product acts like a toner without the stripping properties of fragrance, coloring, and animal-derived ingredients.

4. TONY MOLY BANANA CREAM FOAM CLEANSER, Ulta.com, $14.50

This lightweight facial cleanser contains banana extract to remove impurities and honey to moisturize the skin. According to the Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, banana essence fights wrinkles and soaks up excess sebum.

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GET GLOSSY WITH K-BEAUTY

BY HALEY MILLAN

5. COSRX ADVANCED SNAIL 96 MUCIN POWER ESSENCE, memebox.com, $16

Snail mucin is the same stuff snails produce to heal cuts on their soft, vulnerable bodies. This protein-packed ingredient replenishes skin’s moisture and supports cell regeneration.

Snail secretion has been suggested to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as found in a 2013 study by the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. This hydrating, anti-inflammatory serum improves skin issues, such as acne, sun damage, dryness, and scars.

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SECTION

ON THE CUSP OF CONTROVERSY When fashion borrows from other cultures, it walks the line between appreciation and appropriation.

BY DANIELLE AGUGLIARO illustrated by autumn wilson

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SECTION FEATURES

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hotographed in a bathhouse, donning a powdered white face, Karlie Kloss posed as a traditional Japanese geisha for Vogue magazine’s March 2017 diversity issue. Kloss, a tall midwestern blonde, ironically served as the focal point of the Asian-inspired shoot. Two Asian models merely posed like props in the background. Only hours after Vogue released the photos, Twitter users furiously expressed their disapproval. The famed magazine had once again turned a culture into a costume.

Kloss quickly tweeted in response, apologizing for participating in a shoot that was culturally insensitive. Vogue has yet to issue an apology.

An expectation exists for Vogue, a legacy publication with seven worldwide editions, to show mindfulness towards the diverse audiences to which it caters. But artistic attempts to draw inspiration from other cultures often fall into the realm of cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation is the adoption or use of elements of one culture by members of another. Art embodies an individual’s unique expression of ideas, but when it comes to the representation of other cultures, a fine line exists between inspiration and appropriation.

In Marc Jacobs’ spring 2017 show, white models walked the runway with colorful dreadlocks piled on their heads. Jacobs, at first, tried to defend himself against the backlash, asserting in an Instagram caption that he “doesn’t see color.” The hairstylist at the Marc Jacobs show, Guido Palau, credited his inspiration for the pastel dreadlocks to Lana Wachoswki, a white film director who sports brightly-colored dreaded hair extensions. But in Palau’s effort to also represent rave culture and the street fashion of Harajuku girls, he unintentionally disregarded the hairstyle’s African background.

This hair decision continued the narrative of how the media has traditionally alienated black women in the beauty and fashion realm. Taking a black woman’s hairstyle and putting it on a group of white women perpetuates the idea that even a black woman’s hairstyle looks better on a white woman.

Jacobs soon changed his stance after reading through comments posted on Instagram. He put up a more carefully considered statement in the caption of a new post: “I apologize for the lack of sensitivity unintentionally expressed by my brevity.” Jacobs’ apology shows that through strong social

media backlash, designers are able to read feedback from their audiences and understand where they faltered.

But cultural appropriation in the fashion world has not always been the result of misinformed inspiration. In the 2012 Victoria’s Secret show, Kloss wore a traditional Native American headdress, along with her animal print bra and skimpy underwear. This sexualization of sacred wear disregarded Native Americans’ cultural tradition of reserving headdresses for political and spiritual leaders. A headdress on top of a barely clothed model adds no cultural literacy to the already hypersexualized extravaganza.

On the other end of the spectrum, Gigi Hadid modeled in a shoot she felt identified with her culture, yet still created controversy by modeling a religious symbol with disregard for its actual implications. Vogue Arabia magazine featured Hadid wearing a hijab under the pretense of her father’s Palestinian origins. Hadid doesn’t practice Islam, and thus doesn’t wear a hijab. Historically, foreign societies persecuted women for wearing the hijab, and continue to in present day. Sure, it’s an empowering idea to see a woman in a hijab on the cover of a magazine, but unlike Nike who tastefully used Muslims to promote hijabs, Vogue Arabia dropped the ball.

Despite the pervasiveness of misplaced inspiration, designers and magazines are becoming more well-versed in cultural awareness.

A popular Brazilian sportswear brand, Osklen, partnered up with the Asháninka tribe—an ethnic group from the Peruvian Amazon rainforest—for a collaborative spring 2016 collection. Inspired from spending time with the Asháninka, founder and style director Oskar Metsavaht based his designs on the bold concepts of the culture. Not only did Metsavaht properly represent the Asháninka, but Osklen also paid the tribe in royalties from the collection and helped raise awareness of the environmental degradation in the Amazon.

Teen Vogue magazine took an equally progressive step with its April 2016 article, “7 Girls Show What Beauty Looks Like When It’s Not Appropriated.” The magazine featured seven girls of different ethnicities who showed how they represent their own cultures every day through their fashion and beauty choices.

One of the girls featured in the Teen Vogue article, Kyemah McEntyre, summed up this problem perfectly: “Our hair is not an accessory,” she said. “It’s literally who we are.”

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ART POP ART POP ART POP ART POP ART POP ART POP From swirls to splatters, Syracuse University students’ abstract artwork brings serious springtime inspiration. photographed by michael isenburg modeled by lili burch styled by zoe malliaros, dylan rheingold, and marina fernandez de la cuesta hair & makeup by jacqueline simpson special thanks to @shoptheesme 14

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top: zara, pants: zara, jacket: acne studios artwork “ barriers � by dylan rheingold, digital painting

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top: tasse tasse tokyo artwork “nocturne in the moonlight ( collecting very sweetly )� by sunyoung lee, materials: fabrics, lipsticks

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top: champion, pants: thrifted artwork “ life refracted � by elena demet, materials: tape ZIPPED

top: 3.1 phillip lim, pants: mass confusion, artwork “ stuffed letters (collecting very softly) � by sunyoung lee, materials: canvas, clothes, clay

photo courtesy of kampanat limpanudom and pathorn buddhari

The

Liked by zippedmag and 2,764 others

healthy_kelsey Read the Instagram hashtag, and you won’t want to double tap that designer dress. Why? It’s sponsored.

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and-sewn sapphire rhinestones, studded onto a purple bikini, gleam in a filter of natural light as Kelsey Coughlin walks forward three feet to enter her camera’s frame. She pivots her collarbone to highlight her six pack. The self-timer clicks. After her fifth attempt, Coughlin captures the perfect shot. She uploads the photo to her Instagram, @healthy_kelsey, and skips the urge to edit the image.

Coughlin seeks to project the honest, personal journey of training for a bikini competition. Despite this transparency, she camouf lages one small detail: Angel Competition Bikinis will send her another $500 rhinestone-studded bikini for free, but only if she promotes the brand on her Instagram.

Coughlin, a 21-year-old Syracuse University senior who now commands an audience of 22,800 followers, represents a new media professional: the inf luencer, born courtesy of Instagram and our culture’s need for authenticity in an advertisementinundated society. These Instagrammers are brands in and of themselves who have established audiences with their extravagant lives and exquisite taste. By capitalizing on their credibility, inf luencers can receive free products or turn their accounts into income streams. Scroll through a feed of petalsprinkled breakfasts and strappy stilettos. You’ll notice that beneath the f lurry of hashtags, a subtler truth reveals itself: brands sponsored these envy-inducing images.

Brands spend more than $255 million on Instagram inf luencer marketing per month, Bloomberg reports. Instagram stars command such inf luence that the most successful charge thousands for a single image, like fashion inf luencer @whowhatwear, who bills upwards of $15,000 per post. Major consumer brands have even signed famous Instagrammers onto endorsement deals—CoverGirl’s first-ever male brand ambassador is 17-year-old beauty inf luencer James Charles.

Instagram’s in-feed experience makes spotting sponsored messages all the more difficult. There’s no official way to signify a sponsored post apart from the caption and hashtag. Currently, Instagram has two types of posts: regular posts (which may or may not be sponsored) and paid advertisements distinctly labeled on the feed in the caption or through hashtags. Most Instagrammers don’t actively sift through the sea of hashtags, so solely using this label of advertisements raises ethical

f lags—and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) agrees.

In March 2016, the FTC issued a complaint against Lord & Taylor (L&T) for paying 50 online fashion inf luencers to post images of themselves wearing the same paisley dresses from its 2015 Design Lab collection. L&T contractually required the inf luencers to tag @lordandtaylor and include the hashtag “#DesignLab” in the caption. Yet, these posts failed to reveal that L&T compensated each inf luencer with a free dress and payment between $1,000 and $4,000 for her promoted post.

Though an insider may notice the tags and hashtags, an average user would likely not recognize its sponsored nature.

Some advertisers believe that, although inf luencer posts differ from traditional ads, they should still be disclosed. “The idea that my goal is to trick the consumer into reading what I want to tell them about the brand is inauthentic to marketing and advertising,” says Beth Egan, a media industry veteran who has worked for Coca-Cola and L’Oréal Paris.

Referring to the L&T case, Egan says that explicit disclosure may have slightly hindered the success of the brand’s campaign— the inf luencers’ posts reached 11.4 million individual Instagram users and the dress quickly sold out—but consumers would have still voluntarily read the brand’s message if it was relevant enough.

There are some inf luencers who reject financial compensation altogether. Lifestyle vegan blogger Ivy Carnegie refuses to charge companies for mentions on her Instagram, @ivycarnegie, though she will promote the free products she receives that she genuinely loves.

“Even though social media is fake and not real life, people want to connect to things that seem real,” Carnegie says. “When it comes to showing off someone else’s brand on a page that I built out of pure love, I’m genuinely happy to do that.”

Instagram stands at the foreground of the interactive movement, but like its predecessors, advertisers will find a way to f lood the newest platform with sponsored content. In most cases, inf luencers do comply with the FTC’s regulations. Aside from excluding disclosure hashtags, the absolute threshold for deception depends on an individual basis. Because, in reality, that threshold has yet to be defined. When it comes to the future of advertising, Egan says, “We’re in our infancy.”

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TRUMPING THE FASHION INDUSTRY

SECTION

BY HANNAH MALACH

Once contained on Capitol Hill, politics has permeated almost every aspect of our society— including fashion.

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ebellion hasn’t always manifested itself as violent resistance. From the skirt-shortening era of the 1920s to the safety pin-embellished punk garb of the 1970s, fashion has long been considered a form of revolution.

2017 is no exception. Even the oddly synchronous rise of right-wing populism with that of left-wing progressivism has illustrated itself in the fashion world. Despite an unfortunate rising trend in Islamophobia worldwide, Halima Aden—the first hijab-wearing model signed to IMG—opened Yeezy Season 5.

Under the polarizing Trump administration, designers have unsurprisingly stepped up to embrace the role of activists.

Like most groundbreaking American movements, it all began in New York City: the home of Stonewall, Ms. magazine, and most recently, the 2017 Women’s March. Designers and fashion insiders made a bevy of political statements at New York Fashion Week. In our current protest-ready climate, graphic, thought-provoking t-shirts made the smartest, simplest, and most straightforward statements.

Prabal Gurung and Christian Siriano both took part in the trend. Gurung’s statements varied from “The Future Is Female” to “I Am an Immigrant,” while Siriano’s simply declared “People Are People.” The designers contributed proceeds from their t-shirts to the ACLU and Planned Parenthood, respectively. Gurung hasn’t been shy about expressing his political views through fashion in the past; he previously designed a t-shirt for Hillary Clinton’s campaign.

Even before Trump was elected, Dior made headlines with its own politically-minded tees. In her first collection for the fashion house last spring, artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie by printing tees with “We Should All Be Feminists,” named after one of Adichie’s essays. Like Siriano and Gurung, Dior donated a portion of sales to charity, selecting one of Rihanna’s endeavors, the Clara Lionel Foundation. The foundation, established in 2012, supports worldwide education and health programs.

Statement-making tees aside, designers and fashion icons politically involved themselves in creative ways during NYFW. The Council of Fashion Designers of America partnered with Planned Parenthood shortly before fashion week, in hopes of spreading awareness for the nonprofit, as it currently faces a total loss of its national funds. Bright pink pins that read “Fashion Stands With Planned Parenthood” were spotted on

models at Tome and Chloe Gosselin, as well as on designers like Diane von Furstenberg. Anna Wintour herself even wore the pin with one of her trademark fur coats.

Stylist Kimmy Erin Kertes, who counts actress Olivia Culpo among her clients, predicts that these politically-charged pieces will only become more prevalent throughout the next four years. “I think we are seeing messages on runways— Missoni’s pussy hats were my personal favorite this season— that will trickle into retail in a few months, and the messages so many designers have been committed to for years will start to be more important and popular than ever,” she says.

Aside from the more general statements made at fashion week, some designers had a more specific target: the First Family. Perhaps the most obvious jab at Trump was on the runway at Public School, where models donned red caps that read “Make America New York”—a clear parody of the president’s most identifiable piece of campaign gear.

Designers have also begun taking a stand by refusing to dress the First Family, specifically Melania Trump. Zac Posen, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford are just a select few who’ve publicly stated their disdain. French designer Sophie Theallet, known for dressing Michelle Obama, detailed her thoughts in an open letter via Twitter: “As one who celebrates and strives for diversity, individual freedom, and respect for all lifestyles, I will not participate in dressing or associating in any way with the next First Lady,” Theallet wrote just days after the election.

Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Carolina Herrera, on the other hand, voiced their support for dressing the First Lady.

Despite the polarity that the administration has created within the industry, some designers still have decided not to project their political affiliations onto their businesses. Michael Kors, a proud Hillary Clinton supporter, had no clear aversion to Melania Trump wearing one of his own designs for the president’s first address to Congress. In a March 2017 article on harpersbazaar.com, Kors revealed that Melania Trump has been a faithful customer of his.

Kertes, however, believes it is important for designers to use their platforms to speak their minds. “I think that our times are on the more dire side,” she said. “I beg for designers and commercial enterprises to start putting their art and money where their mouths are.”

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printed players Go graphic with vibrant stripes and geometric patterns.

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photographed by michael isenburg modeled by cheyenne lee and shuya xie styled by zoe malliaros, dylan rheingold, marina fernandez de la cuesta, and oriane playner hair & makeup by jacqueline simpson and julia welch special thanks to the everson museum of art and @shoptheesme ZIPPED

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shuya top: brandy melville, scarf: brandy melville, pants: bcbgmaxazria, cheyenne top: thrifted, pants: express

cheyenne top: zara, pants: indigo-red lux /industrial denim, scarf: missoni, shoes: vintage carlos santana shuya dress: design lab by lord & taylor, jacket: acne studios

cheyenne top: j.crew, jacket: acne studios, romper: privacy please shuya top: zara, jumpsuit: diane von furstenberg

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shuya pants: et vous, jacket: maje, earrings: thrifted cheyenne top: nike /jordan, skirt: h&m

shuya top: free people, skirt: american apparel cheyenne top: hoss intropia, pants: thrifted, shoes: zara

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TO THE MAX Pile it on! This spring’s maximalism trend is all about adding more, more, and (dare we say it?) more.

BY JACKIE HOMAN

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here’s an old Chanel quote about taking a look in the mirror and then removing one accessory before you walk out the door. Sorry, Coco, but the spring 2017 runways declared that this season, it’s all about adding an accessory or statement clothing piece. You’re only wearing three colors? Try four. Already sporting a major trend piece? Another couldn’t hurt. After years of perfectly edited minimalism, it’s finally time to overthink less and overdo more.

Royal Treatment Poofy princess sleeves, ruff les of tulle tiered on the shoulders, architectural cocoon shapes coming out of the arms—there was hardly a standard sleeve in sight at Gucci’s spring 2017 show. Before the summer heat creeps in, make the most of your long sleeves by embracing the unusual and giving normal silhouettes the cold shoulder.

Giddy Up Rodeo, meet fashion.

Out of all possible design inspirations, none holds an outrageous reputation like the Wild West. That’s exactly what Anna Sui channeled in her spring

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collection. She managed to decorate her models with long fringe, leather, f loral prints, bright colors, and of course, cowgirl hats and boots. And this was often all in one look. Rodarte’s spring show similarly channeled rodeo glam with bedazzled rhinestone Western jackets and skirts, proving that even when it comes to the country, glitz is the way to go.

Fluff Factor Black, white, and neutral fuzzy faux-fur coats reigned all winter, but spring 2017 runway shows like Prada’s took the cozy trend in a completely new direction.

With colorful fur tacked onto sleeves, hemlines, and even shoes, the show demonstrated that a little f luff can make a big impact.

Keep It Clashy The ma ximalist runway vibes for spring declared the more prints, the better. Roberto Cavalli amplified bohemian style to the extreme in his collection, showing as many as seven different prints in one dress.

Between f lorals, stripes, polka dots, and paisleys, there’s no need to choose your favorite when you can wear them all.

ENDINGS

RUNWAY Rodarte S/S17, PANTS Mango $59.99, BAG Sole Society $49.95

PRETTY IN PINK (1986)

FERRIS BUELLER’S DAY OFF (1986)

RUNWAY Chloe S/S17, TOP Zara $35.90, SKIRT H&M $59.99

ON THE REEL Zipped takes inspiration from ’80s classics to connect Hollywood’s most iconic looks with this season’s favorites and their ready-to-wear complements.

RUNWAY DKNY S/S17, TOP Topshop $52.02, SUNGLASSES Quay $50

HEATHERS (1988)

RISKY BUSINESS (1983)

RUNWAY Balenciaga S/S17, SKIRT Mango $79.99, JACKET Zara $129

ZIPPED

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BY ZOE MALLIAROS

photo courtesy of sharon clott kanter

Sharon Clott Kanter, current deputy style director at PEOPLE magazine and PEOPLE.com, founded MT V Style in 2010 as a producer and editor. A magazine major, Kanter graduated from Syracuse University in 2007 and launched her career as an assistant fashion editor at New York magazine. Kanter chatted with Zipped about career preparation, celebrity interviews, and the most cringeworthy phrase in fashion.

ZIPPED: When did you first know you wanted to work in fashion?

SHARON CLOTT KANTER: You never forget your first fashion show. For me, I was 22 and working at New York magazine. And while the collection wasn’t that memorable (Custo Barcelona, for the record), the feeling of being inside the New York Fashion Week tents at Bryant Park (which no longer exist) was amazing. I remember how giddy I felt when the lights went down. I was totally hooked.

Z: Was it important for you to stay involved as a student to prepare yourself for future internships and jobs?

S: Yes! I had no idea what I wanted to do when I graduated other than work at a magazine. (If you feel that way, people, don’t worry, it all works out!) As a result, I tried it all—Ed2010, Equal Time magazine, worked at the campus book publisher during the school year, and interned at art book publishers (Powerhouse and Phaidon) in the summers in NYC. None of those things had anything to do with fashion. But I found out what I liked and didn’t like, which was really important.

Z: What are your main responsibilities as deputy style director at PEOPLE and PEOPLE.com?

S: I edit the style and beauty pages of the weekly print magazine (a mix of writing, reporting, editing, producing, and planning, with a very talented team). The pace is demanding, which makes it both challenging and fun. I also oversee our style and beauty videos, which is an increasingly important part of the business, and work closely with our sales and marketing teams.

STYLE ICON? My tried and true are Naomi Watts and Amy Adams— they always land on my best dressed lists. A lso, I ’ ve interviewed them both and they are the nicest humans. My young Hol lywood fave is Lucy Hale. We are the same size so I love to fol low her Insta @lucyhale for cute petite outfit ideas. (I’ve interviewed her, too, and she ’s also a lovely person.)

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Z: What’s your favorite part of your job?

S: Interviewing celebrities. I cut my teeth as a party reporter (my first interview ever was P. Diddy!) and never grew out of it.

It’s the most surprising and fun aspect of my job.

Z: Biggest lesson you’ve learned over the years working in fashion?

S: Pay attention to the details—they matter. The people who can talk about fashion and beauty in specifics rather than broad strokes always succeed.

Z: What advice would you give a student who wants to work in the fashion industry?

S: The fashion industry has grown so much since I started, and there are so many new opportunities that didn’t exist 10 years ago. Be open to all aspects beyond simply working at a magazine or website. Oh, and try not to tell people you have a “passion for fashion” in a cover letter. It’s a truly cringe-worthy phrase.

WARDROBE ESSENTIALS?

My uniform is a black bodysuit, high-waisted pants, and black boots.

FAVORITE NYC SPOT?

Equinox is my happy place.

zippedmag.syr.edu issuu.com/zippedmag facebook.com/zippedmag @zippedmagazine @zippedmag zippedmagsyracuse@gmail.com ZIPPED

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SPRING 2017