South African TREASURE

History, wildlife and luxury combine on a trip through South Africa's less travelled region

Words SANDY CADIZ-SMITH

Most travellers visiting South Africa head for Cape Town’s beaches and winelands or the safari experiences in the country’s north. All wonderful, but another intriguing expanse of the Rainbow Nation is waiting to be discovered. Kwa-Zulu Natal (KZN) is a fascinating mix of stunning mountains, lively towns, and vast and irresistible sandy beaches. Add to this the bountiful wildlife and incredible stories in its historic battlefields, and you have a glorious combination of beach, bush, and battles – and with a healthy dose of African heritage thrown in (it's home to the fiercely proud people of the Zulu nation).

Our journey starts with a flight to Johannesburg, followed by a short hop to cosmopolitan Durban, the country’s thirdlargest city. As well as being a great destination for a seaside break, Durbs, as it's fondly known, is the gateway to many splendours. Our first stop is Fugitive’s Drift Lodge, reached at the end of a long and winding road, deep in the KZN bush. The 5,000-acre Natural Heritage Site overlooks Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift – the sites of two of the bloodiest battles in history in the Anglo-Zulu war of 1879. Now, it is a beautifully peaceful place.

We took a short stroll along a bushlined pathway and reached our spacious room with its indoor and outdoor showers and verandah with views of the plains of the Bu alo River. You won’t find a more welcoming place with friendly personal service and tasty communal dinners served every night. We explored the battlefields and the lodge’s guides brought those tragic days vividly to life with their passionate storytelling as we stood overlooking the graves and remains of the buildings that once stood in this beautiful landscape. Having got our historical fix, we headed to Nambiti Hills to discover more bush life and commune with wildlife in its natural environment. The private game lodge sits proud on a hill overlooking the valley of Nambiti reserve. The views are gasp-inducing and the setting perfect – contemporary safari-style design and enveloped by a sense of peace. Our inviting suite is one of only eight, designed in natural tones with an open-plan lounge, enormous bed, ensuite shower, and separate extra-large stone bath overlooking dramatic landscapes. Evenings and early mornings are dedicated

to game drives – our favourite parts of the day. Our knowledgeable rangers regale us with tales as we explore the reserve in an open-top jeep in our search for wildlife – a very fruitful search, as it turns out. We get up close (very close) with two lion families fighting for territory. We spend time watching in awe as a herd of elephants emerge from the densest bush and then coo over the cuteness of baby impalas and warthogs. We enjoy pre-breakfast cappuccinos with a dash of the delicious local Amarula liqueur and sundowners complete with local biltong and droewors snacks. The magic of a bush escape brings us excitement, escapism, and relaxation all rolled into one. What a package.

Our final stop on our KZN odyssey is the iconic Oyster Box Hotel overlooking Umhlanga’s beachfront and the Indian

Ocean, just north of Durban’s golden mile. One of South Africa’s most celebrated hotels, the Oyster Box is, quite simply, magnificent – it oozes style. It’s also the perfect place to explore the vibrant streets and markets of this intriguing city and its revamped waterfront and promenade.

But our highlight of Durbs is undeniably the hotel. We spend dream-like days in comfort, with our every need taken care of. From sipping local bubbly in the majestic lobby to chilling in our gigantic two-storey suite set in lush tropical gardens to sampling signature seafood dishes and indulging in the legendary curry bu et – and, of course, sco ng oysters for breakfast. How can you not when you’re staying at The Oyster Box Hotel? This has to be the place for the ultimate indulgence. It's also the perfect finale to our epic KZN journey of discovery. This lesser-known aspect of South Africa is treasure, packed with attractions just waiting to be explored.

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