Zest 817 REVIEW // Shined to a Polish

BY ERIC GRIFFEY

Like sushi rice, the corn tortilla is fundamental to authentic Mexican food – both as an essential flavor component and a vessel for other ingredients. A good housemade tortilla alone can elevate an entire menu while lending an air of legitimacy to the restaurant.

El Bolero, the three-month-old eatery set in Crockett Row –– formerly and colloquially known as the West 7th development –– takes its individually pressed corn tortillas seriously. Earthy, sweet, and pleasantly soft, the uncommonly thick saucer-sized morsels are an appropriate opening salvo for the rest of Chef Hugo Galvan’s regional

Mexican menu, which lives in the space between upscale multi-component haute Mex-Mex and more traditional chips-and-salsa, cheese-slathered Tex-Mex. There’s adventure on offer but always a safety net below.

Speaking over the phone while vacationing in his hometown of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, Galvan said this something-for-everyone ethos was intentional.

“With El Bolero, I tried to work my original recipes with a Texas approach,” he said. “We wanted familiar items but with an upscale twist.”

Galvan fully understands the competitive West 7th dining scene. His critically lauded Hacienda San Miguel shuttered five years ago, and a handful of other Mex-Mex/Tex-Mex places have vanished as quickly as they appeared since then.

El Bolero, which refers to the ubiquitous shoe-shiners on the streets of Mexico, is the third outpost of the Dallas-based chain. Though the colorful décor, replete with cactus wallpaper and an imposing mosaic of Don Cenobio Sauza –– the man credited with first bringing tequila stateside –– looks every bit like a focus-group’s idea of an upscale Mexican concept, the food doesn’t at all feel like it’s been watered down, in part because Galvan created the menu based on his experiences in Mexican markets.

“When I was very young, I spent a lot of time in the market helping the businesses,” he said. “So, a lot of the things I saw in the markets, I applied to the concept.”

Like many other newly opened concepts in town, the menu’s watchword is “fresh.”

For example, the mammoth appetizer portion of the just-made guacamole was loaded with onions and cilantro and expertly seasoned with salt and limejuice. Pilled atop that hillock sat gleaming cherry tomato halves, jalapeño-tinged pico de gallo, and, for a few extra bucks, decadent, salty cubes of bacon. When scooped by the still-warm pepper-dusted chips, the creamy, spicy, salty, acidic flavors were a master class in balance.

Just as fresh-tasting was the chilled gazpacho –– a clean, focused, and refreshing starter perfect for a light beginning or a mid-meal palate-cleanser. Though the bobbing strands of jicama didn’t add much in the way of flavor, the color contrast and texture raised the soup to a total sensory experience.

Also on the lighter side was the kaleidoscopic ceviche de huachinango, which skewed sweet thanks to the amalgam of watermelon, orange, grapefruit, and pineapple occupying real estate alongside diced cucumbers and jalapeños, chopped heirloom tomatoes, and chunks of citrus-soaked snapper.

As a part of the pork, the tortillas proved to be a unifying element –– in the case of the wagyu tacos, a smaller, just-as-thick blue corn version of the tortillas masked the flavor of the beef,queso fresco, and guacamole. When eaten on their own, the flank steak slabs were expertly seasoned, juicy, and fork-tender. The guacamole added a cooling, creamy, and citrus-laden kiss.

More exploratory diners should experience the beautifully presented cochinita pibil, achiote-braised pork wrapped in a banana leaf and served atop refried beans and rice, with a halo of fiery habanero sauce surrounding the plate and slivers of pickled onions strewn here and there. Once unfurled, the leaves revealed a ball composed of shredded pork particles –– tender, spicy, and a tad sweet. All of these components were individually delicious, but only when swaddled inside the large, thick housemade corn tortillas did they feel like ingredients to the same dish.

If you’re more of the Tex-Mex bent, the chile relleno de queso delivers on its promise of cheese –– and then some. The amply portioned poblano peppers were coated in layers of Oaxaca and Monterey cheeses, filled with cremini mushrooms, and served alongside the habanero sauce. This is not the entree that will thrill the types of people who run to the hottest new restaurant, but the ooey, gooey pools of cheese and piquant peppers are a perfect lunch entree for, say, your parents or someone whose palate is less daring. Just make sure they don’t fill up on the corn tortillas –– it’s easy to do.

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