Zccm issue mar 3 3 3 4 digital

A

WA L K

D O W N

M E M O RY

L A N E

Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

Border Crossing From Canada and Back 2X

M A R /A P R 2 0 1 7 • I S S U E 3 .3/3.4

ZCARCLUBMAG.COM

Contents

zcarclubmag.com • mar/apr 2017 • issue 3.3/3.4

Features

eight

12 First Right of Refusal Border crossing has become common place for this immaculate Z32. Brian Webber’s story of two owners, two countries and the love for one car.

Departments 5 From the Editor 7 Moving Parts 8 Events Walking Tour of Race Shops Past

11 Classifieds 20 Out of the Garage How to: S30 Climate Control Rebuild/Repair

24 Around the Curve twelve

publisher: Nelson Ackerman, nlackerman1@aol.com editor-in-chief: Art Singer, arts.zccm@gmail.com managing editor: Keelan Murphy, keelan.zccm@gmail.com advertising: call 505.835.9170 for a media kit operations: Printing: Starline Printing, distribution: Lita Singer

Z

CAR

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MAGAZINE

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Z Car Club Magazine is a monthly digital publication and a printed version comes out three times a year (April, August and December).

No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the expressed written permission of the publisher. This publication is distributed with the understanding that the information presented herein is from various sources for which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to accuracy, safety, or completeness. Unsolicited material will not be returned. PRINTED IN U.S.A.

FROM THE EDITOR • Welcome and the search continues!

By: Art Singer, EIC (ZCCM), Albuquerque Z Car Club I would like to take this time to welcome two new clubs to the ZCCM Partner Club program. The first is the Ozark Z Club out of Springfield, MO. The club was started by Josh Lyman and is one of the newest clubs to join the Z car community with 2017 being it’s first full year of existence. The second club, the Z Car Club of Colorado on the other hand has been around since 1983. The first National Z Convention was officially held in Aspen, CO in 1988 making them the first host club of a ZCCA sponsored ZCON. My search for a 350Z continues as I look for the perfect project car for ZCCM. People have asked me why I’m not getting a 370Z. I tell them that buying a newer Z just doesn’t seem right to me since I want to modify whatever Z I get. I would have a hard time making changes to a newer Z that doesn’t really need changing. I want a Z that is used, but not abused. I want it to be as stock as possible. It wouldn’t make much of a project car if it already has a bunch of modifications done to it. The miles don’t really matter to me since at some point I want to go to forced induction which means the engine will need to be rebuilt anyways. The interior doesn’t need to be perfect, but at the same time I don’t want it to be totally trashed.

As you can see, I’m looking for something very specific which makes the search that much harder. Add to that, there aren’t many 350Z’s for sale in the

Albuquerque area fitting that description so I’m having to look in surrounding cities within a 500 mile radius. Sooner or later I’ll find it.

There have still been quite a few readers wanting to send in articles on their Zs. The problem (if you want to call it that) is, they are mostly coming from the S30 crowd. I would love to see some later model Z owners (280ZX, 300ZX, 350Z and 370Z) get involved and start submitting some articles on their cars.

As much as I love the S30, I would like to see more variety, including the newer models in the pages of ZCCM. A few good pictures and a good story behind the car is all it takes to make it happen. Even the 510 and Roadster owners are welcome to submit an article.

ZCCM is still in search of Z-cars for the "Behind the Wheel" section of the magazine. If you own a nice Z and would like to see your car gracing the pages of the magazine and don't mind writing about it then send me an email at arts.zccm@gmail.com to get the ball rolling. Who knows, it might turn into a feature (see above) if there is a really good story behind it! Most BTW's only need between 400 to 700 words and about 5 to 8 hi-res images. This is your chance to see your car in print and it also looks nice displayed in the rear hatch area of your Z at your local car show. So get out from behind the wheel and show the world what you got.

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MENTION THIS AD AND GET A 20% DISCOUNT - EXPIRES 6/31/16 KEEP IT COOL WITH 280Z AND 280ZX CUSTOM HOOD VENTS These fiberglass cowl--style hood vents are direct replacements for the factory hood vents in the 1977 and 1978 280Z as well as the 1979 to 1981 280ZX. Vents can also be used on earlier 240Z and 260Z models to improve engine bay cooling at idle or in traffic, prevent vapor lock, and reduce thermal stress on wiring harness connectors and other engine components.

We also carry a wide variety of fiberglass rebody kits along with widebody fenders, flares, hoods, airdams and various body parts for the 240z 260z 280z and 280zx.

Visit our website or give us a call at

www.ZTRIX.com • 480.229.1831

MOVING PARTS ZCCM’s Moving Parts column digs up the latest and greatest parts and accessories for your Nissan, Infiniti, or Datsun. Know of a product that should be featured? E-mail details to arts.zccm@gmail.com.

1970/83 Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z/280ZX Replacement Floorpans Tired of driving Fred Flintstones used cars? Zedd Findings is the producer of the replica Datsun Z floor systems and front frame rails for the 1970-1974 1/2 Datsun Z cars, as well as for the 280Z and 280ZX. Why do patchwork when you can replace the entire pan and know that your floor boards are solid again. Zedd Findings also has a vast inventory of new Datsun Z parts, and can access hard-to-

1970-74(1/2): 240 and 260z (early) Floors

find parts through international contacts. Details: datsunzparts.com/index.html

and Supports $329 - Floors only $269 Support Rails only $100

1979-83: 280Z-ZX Floors and Supports $399 - Floors only $300 - Support Rails only $100

NOT PICTURED 1974(1/2)-78: 280Z Floors and Supports $349 - Floors only $269 - Support Rails only $100

www.baddogparts.com Bad Dog Parts specializes in the sale of used, new, and custom designed parts for owners of 1st generation Z cars (1970-78). We do on occasion carry parts for later model Zs. And for those looking for something a little different, that adds strength, or ease of operation to your Z car, we have a line of custom made parts which are available:

CALIFORNIADATSUN.COM

• • • • •

240/260/280 coupes and 2+2 frame rails optional rear rails replacement OEM style seat brackets front sway bar strengthening plates single jack point plates

REAR RAIL

FRAME RAIL

Have a need to make your Z more rigid? Add our optional rear frame rail section and you tie in the front end to the rear wheel well making your Z handle like it was always meant to.

What we design and build we use ourselves.....and for those of you concerned with sending your hard-earned Z dollars to someone you’ve never meet, we offer a 100%, no question asked refund policy.

Email: john@baddogparts.com Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

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EVENTS • Walking Tour of Race Shops Past in El Segundo By: John Moran, Empire Z Club Star Wars, squirrels, and an artist were

low Datsun owner Hector Cademartori. You may

introductions and I mentioned that we were in

a few of the images I had when thinking about

recognize the name from previous issues of

store for a lot of connections and possibly even

how a walking tour of El Segundo, CA came

ZCCM as he has done artwork and articles for

forming some new ones. Being at Clayton

together on February 26, 2017. A couple years

this very publication. I sent the request with the

Cunningham's former shop, he stepped forward,

prior, I was at a car event at the Automobile

offer of raising money for a charity of Sylvia's

but rather than talk about his GTS championship

Driving Museum (ADM) in El Segundo and the

choice. She is active with animal charities and

Z32s that were so dominant in 1994 that IMSA

two things that stayed in my mind were a 350Z

suggested Best Friends for this event. With that,

banned the twin turbos, he talked about his days

decorated like a Star Wars fighter and racing

invites were sent out and admission was simply

of ice racing Corvairs in Europe (3). It may have

legend John Morton talking about some of the

a donation to the charity. As John Morton and I

seemed a little off topic, but was exactly the type

race shops in El Segundo. Then, in 2016, there

did some recon, he mentioned that it might be

of unlikely event that brought all of the teams

was another event at the ADM and again I saw

helpful to get a couple of the other shop owners

together in this unique area of Southern

John Morton. I asked him about the shops, and

involved. A few phone calls later and John

California.

the next thing I knew his wife and author of the

Knepp of BRE and Electramotive as well as

Stainless Steel Carrot, Sylvia Wilkinson, was

Clayton Cunningham of Cunningham Racing

with a single block to our next stop, Brock

showing my daughter squirrels in their backyard.

were on board (1).

Racing Enterprise (BRE) (4). The shop was home

We did manage to drive around to some of the

On the morning of the event, intermittent

From there, our journey of one mile began

to the 240Zs and 510s that won championships

race shops in the area and I was amazed at

showers dampened the ground, but not our spir-

and helped put Datsun on the map. As a sou-

how close they all were to each other.

its. Participants arrived at the final destination

venir for the event, the 15 participants received

and were shuttled to the start point where they

a photo from inside BRE back in 1972 featuring

Christmas card and asked if he would consider

A month later, I sent John Morton a

huddled under a small overhang (2). Most were

John Morton and three 510s (5). Not only was

doing a walking tour of the race shops in the

not aware that inside that building was where

Peter Brock kind enough to allow us to repro-

area. The card had amazing artwork depicting

the dominant Z32s of Cunningham Racing

duce the photos, but I had just visited the new

a 240Z with Santa from renowned artist and fel-

resided during the '90s. We did a round of

BRE shop in Henderson, NV the week before

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1

3

2

4

5

6

and he even signed all of them. You can get the

was visiting California and offered to pick up a

photo and many others at bre2.net.

brake kit for a friend. The kit wasn't ready, but

Clayton worked on rotary engines at his shop,

Clayton kept showing up to ask about it until

was a crew chief for Al Unser Jr.'s Can-Am

of Electramotive's many buildings they had in

John Knepp happened to stop by and ended up

championship Frisbee, and even started the

the area at one time or another. This is where

offering him a job at Electramotive!

Around the next corner and we were at one

the GTP engines came from, with 6 to 8 engines going to Japan for each Group C race. Up the

Down the street and we were at another

by John Morton and Clayton Cunningham (8).

Malibu Grand Prix RX-7 team. Next door, John ran a Can-Am car out of his shop. Today, John

Electramotive building that had the GTU and

Morton's former shop is home to Racing Division

street and we were at another Electramotive

GTO 280ZXs. On the side was a small building

L.A., which handles Shelby memorabilia. It defi-

facility, which was their first GTP shop in 1984.

(now green) that John Knepp converted to a

nitely felt like a full-circle connection moment as

We just did a quick stop- and-go at our 4th shop

sound-proof dyno room (7). It was so effective,

Peter Brock had designed the Shelby Cobra

as we still had 6 more on the course.

the neighbor didn't even know they were run-

Daytona Coupe while working for Shelby and

We cut through a driveway and John Knepp

ning engines in it. The testing paid off as they

was also an instructor at the Carroll Shelby

pointed out a building that could have been mis-

went from the 1979 IMSA GTU championship

School of High Performance Driving where he

taken for a shed, but at one point, actually

280ZX to the 1982 GTO championship 280ZX

had John Morton as a student!

housed Brad Friselle's IMSA Z that won the GTU

Turbo that was able to pass Group C cars on

championship in 1976 (6). Then around the cor-

the straight at Fuji Speedway and then to the

level of a bar formerly called the Time Out (9).

ner and there was a small building where Mac

super cool GTP ZX-T with a modified VG30

This was where Electramotive started in 1973.

Tilton started Tilton Engineering in 1972. Mac

turbo engine that could produce well over

John Knepp said there was about a two-inch flex

was the crew chief for the BRE 510 and devel-

1,000hp on the dyno!

in the ceiling as patrons danced in the bar

oped many parts, including brake kits. This is

At this point, we hit the straightaway for 3

where Clayton Cunningham got started as he

blocks before coming to side-by-side shops run

Our last shop was a garage on the lower

above some very cool race cars, including Paul Newman's 510. This shop was also where

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EVENTS

Electramotive ran the B210s in the SCCA C

Route 66 and see some of the electric cars and

Sedan series and won every race they entered in

trucks they have on display.

1974 and 1975, taking the championship both years.

From there it was on to Oatman, AZ. The

Oatman is a blast from the past. It still has that old western feel to it. Donkeys walking around looking for anyone to feed them, reenact-

stretch of road leading into Oatman is a Z car

ed gun fights in the street and all kinds of stores

We then walked around to the front of the

owners dream. A very twisty, curvy, narrow road

line each side of this one road town. Be pre-

building for photographs, a signing session, and

that will test the skills of any driver. There are no

pared to spend a few hours there since it can get very busy with all the tourists coming through.

lunch. Before we headed into the restaurant,

guardrails (okay, there might be three, but they

some of us were fortunate to pick up a signed

won’t stop you from going over the side of the

Electramotive 280ZX model with sound that John

cliff) and the lane is the edge. No three or four

must admit I had a great time. I will now make this

and Lori Knepp brought with them (10).

foot runoffs to make you think you have a

a yearly thing as long as Johnnie and Kenny are

Participants then gathered other posters and col-

chance. You could almost consider this the West’s

willing to host it. I hope to see more Z enthusiasts

lectibles and went into the restaurant (11). The

version of the Tail of the Dragon.

from around the southwest joining in on the fun.

walking portion was over, but the connections continued. Turns out, the current owner of the restaurant is related to Motorsports Hall of Fame of America driver Hershel McGriff, who was also a guest driver in a BRE 510. However, perhaps no one has created more connections in the Datsun/Nissan community than Mr. K and it felt very special to have his yellow 240Z there as we crossed the finish line (12).

After lunch, we walked across the street to the Route 66 Museum. For a small donation ($4.00) you could learn more about the historic

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This was my first time attending the event and I

11

CLASSIFIEDS Sell your parts and accessories, street vehicles, and anything else Datsun or Nissan related. Rates start at $35.00 for 40 words with one picture. Contact Art Singer at 505-835-9170 or arts.zccm@gmail.com for more information.

1987 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 1987 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 Affectionately known as the California Mistress is officially retired in Northwest Arkansas and is "Up for Adoption". Automatic trans, (rebuilt 2007), a/c works great, entire cooling system updated 09/2015 at a cost of $3860. Ice Blue Silver Metallic with two-tone blue interior, T-tops, louvers and full service manual on USB and a 1-yr subscription to Alldata. 149K original miles, Original owner since 1989, was a Dealer demo at Culver City Nissan in Southern CA. Always garaged. Trailer queen from 2004-2010, too many awards to list (also goes with vehicle) from Southern and Northern CA, to Arizona to Branson, MO to Northwest Arkansas, To see more detailed photos, an in-depth write-up and certified service history (CARFAX) all in PDF, please email; ronkalter@aol.com. Vehicle is located in Arkansas near the Oklahoma and Missouri state lines. This Z is in pristine condition, but not perfect. If you want perfection, l’d go see Jesus.

Asking only $9,349.00 or nearest offer.

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F

12

Here to Stay?

Maybe Not!

Story By Brian Webber, Photos by Chris Brewer

Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

irstRight Refusal of

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I

have always been into cars. My first word, according to my parents, was truck.

In

order to have money to purchase a car when I turned sixteen I started delivering

newspapers at fourteen. My first car was a Camaro

Berlinetta. My neighbor had a 280Z that his par-

ents had bought him. My Camaro was pretty rough, and I envied him and his 280Z. Shortly after buying my Camaro my father

found out that he was being transferred to Fort Polk, Louisiana. Dad was concerned that my Camaro would not make the drive so he made me an offer.

I sell my Camaro, give him the proceeds, and he would buy a 280ZX that I

ed the same. I knew that eventually I would pay dad the remaining balance

could drive anytime he did not need it. We bought a 1981 280ZX in bronze

on the 280ZX and it would be mine, and eventually I was correct. Shortly

with tan leather and t-tops. I thought it was the coolest car ever. The 280ZX

after we moved to Louisiana, my dad bought a new 1987 300ZX, and I got

was more than double the selling price of my Camaro so dad wasn’t able to

the 280ZX all to myself.

just give me the 280ZX. I have two younger brothers who would have expect-

I drove the ’81 my senior year of high school everywhere I was able (and some places I shouldn’t have). Other than wearing out the clutch the car never stranded me despite the typical high schoolers treatment that I gave it.

I would go into details; however, I’m not sure the statute of limitations has run

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out in Louisiana yet. Unfortunately, I had to sell the ZX before heading to college. My college did not allow freshmen to have cars so away it went.

After college I decided to try a 240Z. I managed to find an orange 1970 Series 1 240Z (vin ending in 6988 – if you have it I’d love to hear from

My love of Z cars never died. Over the last 20 years I have had several more: 240Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 280ZX Turbo, 300ZX, Shiro 300ZX Turbo.

There are several more stories in these cars that hopefully I’ll share with ZCCM in the future.

you) in the paper shortly after graduating. I kept the 240Z for several years

In 2016 I was Z-less so I decided to start looking around for a Z32TT. I

and drove it daily including a trip from Florida to Virginia. Eventually it

searched the usual places, autotrader, bringatrailer, craigslist, and ebay. I hit

became too rusty to continue driving. I did not have the money to restore it so

paydirt on ebay. A red 1991 300ZX twin turbo with mileage in the low 40K

I ended up donating it to a local charity.

range that included a carload of extras. New wheels, car cover, shop manual, and spare parts. So many parts, that they filled the entire hatch and passenger seat. Not only did it have low miles and spare parts, but an entire three ring binder with records on the car.

Originally purchased in New Jersey by a doctor, it was now in Canada. Canada? While I am experienced in buying cars long distance, I had never purchased a car from out of the country before. A few Google searches later, I was convinced it would not be a problem. I contacted the seller Jorge Silva, who has since become a good friend, and made him an offer outside of ebay to try and avoid a bidding war online. We spoke for a while and a deal was made.

Getting the car from Canada to the United States was remarkably easy. Fortunately, Jorge had purchased the car out of the US so he gave me the

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name of the company he used for shipping and brokerage.

A phone call, some paperwork and a fair amount of cash was all it took to get the car on its way to Florida. I had to pay shipping, a brokerage fee and an import fee based on the price paid for the car. A few weeks later the Z32 was he8e. To say I was happy with the condition would be an understatement. The car appeared virtually new. One of my good friends, Chris Brewer who is also a Z guy, said that he had not seen a Z32 that nice since they were being sold new. I did not drive the car as much as I should have but enjoyed it on sunny days. I took it to our local Cars and Coffee several times. It was a hit with the local Z car group.

I have a bad habit of buying and selling cars frequently. My family stopped counting at 60 cars a couple years ago. As is my habit I kept looking around at interesting cars for sale. Soon I found a Porsche 996 turbo (I know, heresy) that I thought I could not live without and decided to sell the Z32.

Part of the deal with Jorge was that he was to have the first right of refusal to buy the car back if and when I ever decided to sell it. Little did either of us imagine that would be within 6 months, but it was. After a fairly brief call with Jorge the deal was done and the Z32 was heading back to Canada with the caveat that, now, I get the first right of refusal to buy the car if he ever decides to sell it. We laughed about how quickly he was getting the car back. Jorge said he believed that I would honor his right of first refusal, but that he did not expect to hear from me for at least five or six years. This time we agreed that it would likely be four or five years before he would be reaching out to me to see if I wanted the Z back again. I packed all of the parts back into the Z32 and turned it over to the shipper for its trip back to Canada.

When Jorge shipped it to me originally he left a Canadian penny in the car so I put an American penny in the car and as I sent it back to him.

In the subsequent months I realized that I had made Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

17

a mistake in letting the

speedometer again. Fortunately, this time he found the original mph

Z go and started look-

speedometer and installed it prior to sending it back to me.

ing for another. I did

weeks of waiting and the Z32 was back in Florida once again with a car full

not buy another Z32

of parts and a Canadian penny. As it was the first time, the process of getting

but picked up a nice

the car from Canada to Florida was painless. I used the same company. They

1973 240Z. A largely

laughed and said that this was a first for them; shipping the same car from

original car in green

the same seller in less than a year. I didn’t even have to complete the paper-

with a tan interior, but

work again. They used the paperwork from the first import and had me resign

an S30 is not the same

and re-date it.

as a Z32. I kept looking but really wanted Jorge’s car back.

Jorge and Brian at Amelia Island

my side. Four months after sending the Z32 to Jorge I received a phone call. It was Jorge. He said that he was buying a track car and the Z32 had to go. He did not expect me to buy it back but we had an agreement so he was giving me first right to do so. That was in December. Not exactly the best time to ship a car from Canada.

Regardless, I wanted her back so we struck up another deal.

When Jorge originally sold me the Z32 it had a kph speedometer in it. While I had it, I installed a mph speedometer. When Jorge got it back, in went the kph

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A couple more

Luck was on

Interestingly enough it was more difficult to register the car in Florida than it was the first time. With the first purchase I made a trip to the DMV with the usual paperwork: Canadian registration (they don’t have titles), bill of sale, import paperwork from the US Government, notarized VIN verification, and proof of insurance. A normal wait in line, a few minutes at the counter and I was on my way. This time I had the same paperwork, waited about the same amount of time, but when I got to the counter I was informed that the car needed to have its VIN verified by the State of Florida. Despite arguing that they did not require this less than a year ago on the

exact same car with the exact same VIN they required me to drive across town without tags to have the VIN verified. Once that was done I had to go back to the DMV, wait in line again and then was on my way with a legally registered and license plated car.

I had the pleasure of meeting Jorge in person this year at the Amelia Island Concours d’Elegance. I’m the Executive Director of the Amelia Island Concours d’Elegance Foundation.

When Jorge found out he said that attending was on his bucket list.

Fortunately things worked out this year and two guys who have traded the same Z32 back and forth were able to spend a few minutes talking in person. Jorge made sure to let me know he wants first right of refusal if I decide to sell the Z32 again. This time, I hope she is here to stay.

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OUT OF THE GARAGE • how to: Rebuilding/repairing an S30 Z climate control system By: Curt Wheeler, Group Z Controlled almost entirely by a few

this assembly. The later, factory installed, AC sys-

facilitate reassembly and you'll have a lot fewer

cables, the early generation Z climate control is

tems have the evaporator and heater core boxes

pieces left over.

simple and reliable, but it can be very irritating

stacked in tandem.

when it doesn't operate correctly: blowing cold

Heater Box: Remove the hot-water valve w/bracket, and the hoses, which can be 'frozen'

air out the vents when it's freezing outside,

2. Component removal

to the heater core nipples. Care needs to be used

jammed controls, leaky hot-water valve, deterio-

The AC system needs to be evacuat-

when removing the hoses, as the brass nipples

rated seals, etc. Also, an amazing amount of

ed/discharged and the heater hoses and AC

are very soft and easy to damage-you can use a

debris can collect and settle over the years in the

hoses disconnected at the firewall. Cap the AC

sharp knife to 'slice' them off. Also, cutting the

heater box. This article will show a step-by-step

and heater assembly connectors/nipples at the

hose in half and separating the components

teardown and rebuild of the climate control com-

firewall to prevent AC oil or coolant from spilling

makes removal easier. Remove the right side of

ponents for an early 260Z, and also offer tips,

inside the car during the removal procedure. Put

the housing and slide the heater core out.

recommendations, options, and specify products

several towels over a plastic sheet and under the

Remove the air diverter door assembly and

and materials that were used. The Factory

heater box & hot water control valve (antifreeze

optionally (but not necessary or recommended),

Service and Haynes manuals are necessary sup-

really stinks and will make quite a mess if it gets

carefully remove the side 'trap' doors and associ-

plements.

into the jute/carpet underlayment). [Hot Tip for

ated mechanism.

early Zs which had the heater hoses thru the fire-

Evaporator box: Separate the 2 halves of the

1. Component descriptions

wall: you can slide the heat control switch all the

box and remove the evaporator with expansion

The major components of the climate control sys-

way to 'hot' to completely open the hot-water

valve. Remove the expansion valve (dig away the

tem are: (1) the heater box (which includes the

valve and carefully use compressed air thru the

tar goop stuff that surrounds the bulb w/clamp

heater core and most of the cable actuated parts

coolant inlet hose to force most of the residual

attached to the AC tubing).

such as the hot-water valve and hinged air divert-

coolant in the core back out the outlet hose (put a

Blower Motor: Separate the motor w/fan from

er door), (2) the AC evaporator box (which

few towels over the outlet or you'll make quite a

its housing and remove the fan from the motor

includes the AC evaporator core and AC expan-

mess) and then disconnect the heater hoses at the

(notice that the fan motor is mounted to its hous-

sion valve), (3) the blower motor/air intake

core/valve assembly (again, put a few towels

ing via 'vibration insulating' rubber mounts.

assembly (which includes the blower motor and

under the valve or you'll make quite a mess), and

Remove the fan motor housing from the air intake

fan and the resistor divider network for fan speed

put 1/2" rubber caps, which you can get at the

housing. Remove the air diverter door (2 screws

control), (4) the in-dash control panel (which

local auto parts place, to slide over the valve and

secure the flapper door to its shaft and the shaft

includes the thermostat and fan switches) and the

core nipples to avoid spilling more coolant inside

is secured to the housing with 'C' clips and a

control cables and ducts, and (5) the AC com-

the car during removal.

spring). Remove the 'fan speed switch resistor

pressor & drier & condenser located in the engine compartment (image #1).

1

Disconnect all cables and wire connectors as

divider network' w/cable from the top of the fan

necessary, remove the knobs from the heater con-

motor housing as well as the 'flex' duct that inter-

trol dash assembly, and remove the front dash

faces to the heater box.

bezel. Remove the front dash climate control with

Front Panel Controls: Disassemble the control

cables. Remove the thermostat switch w/capillary

assembly, front bezel, cables, knobs, switches,

tube (which is just pushed into the evaporator

and gear.

core fins). Carefully remove the air ducts (early factory Z ducts are made of paper). Remove the

4. Component rebuild

blower motor/air intake assembly, then remove

Go to the local hardware store and get a nice

the AC evaporator box, and finally the heater

selection of foam seals (see Materials section).

box.

Obviously, for proper, reliable, and efficient operation of the climate control system, it's most

3. Component disassembly

important that all the components are resealed

The early Zs had dealer installed AC which came

If you take the time to write down everything that

properly and with appropriate materials. You

in several variations but the evaporator housing

you do in detail and in chronological order and

need to insure that the air flows where it should:

was located next to and below the blower

put all the little screws, etc into Ziplock bags with

seal around the entire heater core and evapora-

motor/air intake housings and received air from

the contents labeled and numbered, it will greatly

tor core, seal the air diverter doors, seal the ducts

20

Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

and input and output flanges of the boxes, plug

that the diverter door seals completely in both

seals on both sides of the air diverter door (see

up holes and gaps around the heater core nip-

directions.

the 'Materials' section for details on 'door seals')

ples, etc. When installing new seals/gaskets,

Evaporator box: Pour the AC oil out of the

and install the door back into the housing (don't

make sure that the surfaces are squeaky clean

evaporator core into a measuring cup and write

forget the shaft 'C' clips and spring). Reattach the

and then, for maximum adhesion, you can 'scuff'

down how much it was as this much oil should

air intake and fan motor housings with a thin seal

them with 3M Scotchbrite and wipe with a rag

be added at the compressor when you get the

between them (a cut-to-fit sheet of low density

wetted with denatured alcohol (to remove any

AC system recharged. Clean the core (B12 Carb

foam, fiber, or cork seems to work best). Reattach

dust, etc). If you're a perfectionist, get all of the

Cleaner works well on flushing out the inside, fol-

the fan switch resistor divider network w/cable

hardware bead blasted and zinc plated (yellow

lowed by denatured alcohol). Have the core

and the 'flex' duct to the fan motor housing.

chromate finish is prettier). You might bead blast

inspected and pressure tested. A decent AC shop

Install a seal to the top of the air intake housing

and paint or powdercoat the heater box, intake

should be able to get you a new expansion valve

(this will seal against the car at the 'fresh air

housing, and blower motor housing (satin or

if you show them the old one. Reassemble the

intake' - 3/8" thick by 3/4" wide closed cell

semi-gloss black).

box by first installing the core with seals all

foam ribbon w/one-side self adhesive). Check for

Heater Box: Clean the heater box. The heater

around (as with the heater core, the evaporator

proper operation and sealing of the door.

core should be thoroughly cleaned, flushed,

core originally came with stiff ~1/8" rectangular

Control assembly, cables and ducts: Once

inspected, and pressure tested. Replace the core

foam seals along the top and bottom and I

you have the bare mechanism, soak it in gasoline

if you're uncertain or if the nipples are damaged

reused these and pressed some 1/8" closed cell

and work it with a brush to remove the petrified

or corroded. Clean the air diverter door and

foam into the sides). The bulb/capillary tube end

lubricant. When you're satisfied with this, soak

install new seals (see the 'Materials' section for

of the expansion valve needs to be secured to the

and scrub it in soapy water and let dry. Carefully

details on 'door seals') on both sides (the door

LP tubing from the core with a clamp and then

examine and operate the mechanism for correct

swings both ways). Reassemble the box begin-

insulated with a piece of special tar ribbon which

and acceptable operation. 10 to 1 odds are that

ning with the diverter door and the heater core

you can get from the AC shop as well (see the

the little gear on the bottom is broken or cracked.

reinstalled with seals all around (The core origi-

Materials section). You can also insulate the cop-

They all are and you would be lucky to find one

nally came with stiff 1/8" rectangular foam seals

per tubes that go between the firewall and the

out of 20 at the junkyard that was OK (they

along the top and bottom which I reused and I

evaporator with the tar wrap or appropriately

come in at least 2 different types, based on

also pressed in thick open cell foam seals along

sized 'slip-on' foam tubes from the hardware

year/model, and either white or black. (image

the sides). After reassembly, add a seal

store.

#2). You might have to 'bite the bullet' and buy a

(1/8"x3/4" open cell foam ribbon w/one sided

Fan Motor: [Hot Tip: You can replace the earli-

self-adhesive) around the output flange of the

er 240Z fan motor assembly with the later model

heater box where it interfaces to the evaporator

(it has a much lower profile fan motor and a

box. Put small pieces of foam to plug up the

much lighter plastic fan), and then you can

holes at the heater core nipples. The small side

replace that pathetic cardboard glove box liner

doors that hinge up to direct the air to the floor

with a later model heavy duty molded plastic

area of the car originally had little foam seals

liner that is also much roomier-it's not bolt on but

around the edge and at the little access holes in

it's an easy mod]. Thoroughly clean the housings,

the doors but I didn't put any seals back on these

fan, duct, and air diverter door. Reinstall the fan

2

doors as I felt it was unimportant (you can put a

to the motor assembly, check operation of the fan

piece of electrical tape over those access holes).

w/ motor (spin by hand and, if you know what

Replace the hoses and hot-water valve. I also put

you're doing, hook it up to the car battery with a

new control assembly for about $50-$60. Lube

a small amount of silicone grease on both sides

couple jumper wires) and reinstall the fan motor

the control assembly pivot points and gear with

of the rubber seal in the new valve and then

into its housing. The gap between the fan motor

sewing machine oil and/or white grease. A

work the valve to distribute the grease. Finally,

and its housing needs to be sealed (a combina-

decent AC shop should be able to find you a

check the operation of the entire assembly: air

tion of the following seems to be best suited for

new thermostat switch. The capillary tube from

diverter door, side 'trap' doors, and hot water

the task: 3/8" thick closed cell foam w/one-sided

the thermostat switch just pushes into the fins of

valve. Make sure that the doors and valve move

self adhesive, 1/8" thick open cell foam w/one-

the core.

freely and completely and don't bind and verify

sided self adhesive, and 3M 'Strip Caulk'). Install

Final Assembly tips: Recheck to make sure Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

21

OUT OF THE GARAGE • how to: Rebuilding/repairing an S30 Z climate control system cont.d that the doors and valve move freely and com-

under the cowl panel in front of the windshield,

amazing variety of materials (closed cell foam,

pletely and don't bind and that the doors seal

to help keep leaves, etc from getting into the cli-

open cell foam, neoprene rubber, felt, etc) and

completely in both directions. All components

mate control system (image #3). To get to this

form factors (ribbons, sheets, rolls, thicknesses,

should fit snuggly together and pay particular

3

attention to the air intake housing being snugged

widths, cross sections, one sided self adhesive, etc). Open cell foam products are usually

up to the cowl at the fresh air intake and then

white/yellow in color and are very easily com-

work from there. Use new grommets for the evap-

pressible where as the closed cell foam products

orator drain hose hole in the transmission tunnel

are usually gray and not as easily compressible.

(the auto parts places should have a 'variety

They also have rolls of open cell foam products

pack') and the firewall plates for the AC tubes

(usually gray) that are popular for sealing home

and heater assembly nipples. [Hot Tip for the

AC units and which come in a couple different

early 240Zs with the heater hoses that go thru

cross section sizes such as 1"x1" and 2"x2". The

the firewall and have the dealer installed AC:

closed cell foam products are preferred and the

you might consider making small adapter

open cell products are good in tight places or

plates/bulkheads like those shown in image #2.

(and also to check the seams in that area), I used

where there is significant variation in the size of

These are spares to the ones that I installed on

a spot weld cutter bit in a drill and drilled out the

the gap. Also, the open cell foam tends to hold

my 71Z and will make life a lot easier when you

ten spot welds to the sheet metal panel hood

and retain moisture more than the closed cell

have to deal with related heater or AC compo-

(keeps the rain out) that's over the fresh air

foam and so might not be as suitable in the evap-

nents. I also didn't like the way that the dealer

intake. Removing this panel makes it a lot easier

orator box, for instance. I obtained a sheet of

initially routed the AC hoses thru the inner fender

and you can reattach the panel with some small

open cell foam from one of the 'vintage' aftermar-

and wheel well. They are 1/4" brass plate with

bolts or sheet metal screws (be careful that they

ket AC companies that frequently advertise in the

the appropriate male/male connectors (1/2"

don't fall down the fresh air intake opening). I

car mags. Also shown in image #5 are sheets of

hose barbs for heater hoses or correct AC fittings

made a grill from a roll of stiff mesh wire (1/4"

cork and fiber gasket material. [Note on making

for AC) brazed into pre-drilled holes in the brack-

spacing) that I bought at the hardware store but

door seals: the best seals for the air diverter

ets. Also, there are 2 threaded holes in the brack-

screen door material (aluminum or fiberglass)

doors in the heater box and blower motor hous-

ets, to secure the brackets to the firewall, that

would work fine, too. Replaceable filters such as

ing are similar to what came initially from the fac-

require companion holes drilled in the firewall. I

those for the hood vents over stoves would proba-

tory: a cut-to-fit sheet of open cell 1/8"-1/4"

located the AC bracket just above the inner

bly restrict airflow too much. It's also a good

foam with a durable water repellant fabric glued

frame rail on the passenger side-below the bat-

idea to replace the AC drier, located in the

on top. Anything too thick or rigid will not allow

tery area and it also required two 1" holes

engine compartment.

the door to seal properly and just a piece of

drilled in the firewall for the AC fittings. 'Homes'

open cell foam without the fabric top would seal

for the brackets need to be cut out of the firewall

Materials

fine but trap dirt and moisture. You might find

pad inside the car. See the 'Materials' section for

Seals and Gaskets: As mentioned earlier, the

and reuse the original fabric seals after scraping

getting custom AC hoses made. You need to

local hardware store should have a nice selection

off the old foam and glue].

caulk around the holes and bolts appropriately

of foam seals. (image #4) They come in an

Adhesives, caulks, sealers and solvents:

for added sealing protection]. Make sure that you install the drain hose to the bottom of the evapo-

4

Adhesives (image #5) used are a small bottle of contact cement with a built in brush applicator

rator box and direct it down thru the hole

and 2 types of spray adhesive, 3M 'Super 77'

w/grommet in the transmission tunnel and that

and 3M '90 High Strength'. Excellent seam seal-

it's snug enough so that it won't fall off (the AC

ers/caulks are 3M 'Heavy Drip Check Sealer,

also operates as a dehumidifier with resulting

#08531' for thin seams, 3M 'Automotive Joint &

normal condensation on the evaporator core).

Seam Sealer #08648' for wider seams, and 3M

Install and adjust the cables (see the Materials

'Strip Caulk, # 08578' is great for sealing just

section for a lesson on how to custom make your

about anything and can be molded into any

own 'HiPo' cables). Fabricate and place a

shape and any size and has fairly good adhe-

grill/grating over the fresh air intake, located

sion. Dow Corning #4 compound is a very good

22

Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

silicone grease for o-rings, etc. 3M 'Adhesive

etc) and made them myself and then took them

seal and insulate the capillary end of the expan-

Cleaner' #08980 is great for removing old adhe-

back to the AC place to crimp the hose ends

sion valve, which is clamped to the AC tube at

5

(note: the hose ends will stretch about 3/8" for

the evaporator core. It is very pliable-just a small

each crimp and you need to mark the hose ends

piece is needed.

and hoses for proper orientation prior to crimp-

Actuating cable and ducts: It's not that diffi-

ing). Also shown are parts used to manufacture

cult to make your own climate control actuating

the custom fire wall plates and a quart of refriger-

cables, as the materials are readily available.

ant oil, a variety of hose end caps, and a large

You can obtain sleeves w/cables in from your

variety of clamps that can be used to secure the

local bicycle store and they come in about 10'

hoses to the firewall, inner fenders, etc. Shown in

rolls of 2 different sizes for brake & gear and get

image #5 is some generic AC 'tar-like' ribbon

the inexpensive special cable cutters. The 'Hi-Po' stuff has a teflon inner sleeve and a braided steel

6

middle sleeve. The bicycle cables themselves are

sive and foam. 'B12 Carb Cleaner' and

strand steel and really not suitable for the

Denatured Alcohol are very good solvents. Also

'push/pull' requirements here so you can go buy

shown is a sheet of 3M Scotchbrite.

appropriately sized 'piano wire' from a good

Heater and AC: Shown (image #6) are various

hobby store. Cut an appropriate length piece of

AC hoses, hose-end fittings, sleeves and a hose

piano wire, slide it into an appropriate length of

cutter (get one of these if you're going to make

sleeve, and bend the ends as needed. Most of

your own hose assembly). A decent AC place

the ducts are 2" (50 mm) and you can buy suit-

can custom make hoses and I found it more con-

able 'fresh air' or 'carb preheat' ducts from the

venient to purchase the raw material: HP and LP

local auto supply. Also shown is a roll of wire

hoses, a hose cutter, a variety of hose ends (they

(about 2" wide with a disposable paper separa-

mesh that I used for the grill/grating for the fresh

come in different sizes, angles, O ring vs. flare,

tor) that I got from my local AC place. It's used to

air intake.

NEW VENUE, same old Ozark Mountain Madness at the Honeysuckle Inn and Conference Center

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2017

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Go to www.bransonzfest.com/ and register TODAY! Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

23

AROUND THE CURVE ZCCM is for car clubs and their members. We encourage you to join your local club or consider starting one of your own— it’s a great way to grow the Nissan, Infiniti and Datsun community. If you already belong to a club and you don’t see it listed contact Art Singer at arts.zccm@gmail.com or 505-835-9170 for more information on how your club can become a partner.

• Partner Club Directory Arizona Datsun Southwest Location: Tucson, AZ Contact: Jon Figueroa - President Email: speedgato@yahoo.com Phone: 520-208-7212 Website: datsunsouthwest.com Facebook: facebook.com/BanzaiDattoSouthwest Desert Z Association Location: Phoenix, AZ Contact: Jack Saxton Email: dza@desertzassocation.com Website: desertzassociation.com California Group Z Sports Car Club Location: Southern California Contact: Ian Stewart - President Email: ian@groupz.com Website: groupz.com Z Club of San Diego Location: San Diego, CA Contact: Chuck Golden Email: chucksbarandgrill@cox.net Website: zcsd.org Z Owners of Northern California Location: Northern California Contact: Jason Green - President Email/: zoncpres@gmail.com Phone: 707-681-8717 Website: zonc.org Colorado Z Car Club of Colorado Location: Denver & surrounding area Contact: Ira Sanders Email: zroadrunner14@gmail.com Website: zccc.org Connecticut Connecticut Z Car Club Location: Connecticut & surrounding area Contact: Ross Williams Email: officers@ctzcc.com Website: ctzcc.com

Illinois Windy City Z Club Location: Chicago Metro Area Contact: Ty Ozgen Email: tyozgen@gmail.com Phone: 630-910-3616 Website: windycityzclub.com Kentucky Bluegrass Z Car Club Location: Louisville, KY Contact: Bill Edens - President Email: bzcc@bellsouth.net Phone: 502-241-3812 Website: bluegrasszcarclub.com Maryland Maryland Z Club Location: Finksburg, MD Contacts: Mark Lambert - President JoAnne Gardner - VP Email: mdzclub@mdzclub.org Phone: 410-857-4320 Website: mdzclub.org Missouri Ozarks Z Club Location: Springfield, MO Contacts: Josh Lyman - President Email: Ozarkszclubprez@gmail.com Phone: 417-597-0872 Facebook.com/groups/ozarkszclub New Hampshire Z Car Club of New England Location: New Hampshire Contact: John Jeffries - President Email: john@baddogparts.com Phone: 617-510-2694 Website: zccne.org New Mexico Albuquerque Z Car Club Location: Albuquerque Metro Area Contact: Nelson Ackerman Email: nlackerman1@aol.com Phone: 505-239-6833 Facebook: Albuquerque Z Car Club

New York Z Association of New York Location: Upstate New York Contact: Mike Roth Email: rothm@srgarch.com Phone: 518-857-5026 Website: zanyz.com North Carolina Triad Z Club Location: Greensboro, Winston-Salem, High Point Contact: Matthew Ragan - President Email: president@triadzclub.com Phone: 336-399-0961 Website: triadzclub.com Triangle Z Club Location: Raleigh, NC Contact: Bud Hansen - President Email: budhansenus@hotmail.com Phone: 919-215-2698 Website: trianglezclub.com Ohio Cleveland Z Club Location: Northern Ohio Contact: Brent Heath Email: Zaddict96@gmail.com Phone: 216-408-0105 Website: Clevelandzclub.com Z Car and Roadster Owners Club Location: Central Ohio Contact: Tom Marshall Email: tommarshall1@twc.com Phone: 614-451-1890 Website: zroc.org Oklahoma Oklahoma Z car Club Location: Tulsa and Oklahoma City Contact: Pete Pitchford Email: petepitchford@gmail.com Phone: 405-612-1146 Website: okzcc.com South Carolina Upstate Z Club Location: South Carolina Contact: Greg Groppe - President Email: bluez280@afo.net Phone: 864-884-7001 Website: upstatezclub.com Tennessee Middle Tennessee Z Club Location: Central Tennessee Contact: Robert McGehee Email: rmcgehee22@gmail.com or mtzclub@gmail.com Phone: 615-361-4574 Website: middletennesseezclub.com

Smokey Mountain Z Car Club Location: Eastern Tennessee Contact: Tony Price Email: tonyprice1@yahoo.com Phone: 865-681-7986 Website: smokymountainzcarclub.com Texas Cowtown Z Club Location: Ft Worth and Arlington Area Contact: Mike Brunner Email: mtbrunner14@hotmail.com Phone: 817-441-6471 Website: cowtownzclub.com Z Club of Texas Location: Dallas Metro Area Contact: “Mad” Mike Taylor Email: zmadmike@airmail.net Phone: 214-533-0922 Website: zcluboftexas.org Virginia Tidewater Z Car Club Location: Eastern Virginia Contact: Todd Wagner Email: zfixers@cox.net Phone: 757-851-8098 Website: tzccva.org Z Car Association of Richmond Location: Richmond, VA Contact: Chris Grigg Email: President@richmondzcar.com Phone: 804-467-5067 Website: richmondzcar.com And we're on Facebook!

Z Car Club of Northern Virginia Location: Tysons Corner Contact: Bernie Bilski Email: yugobernie@cox.net Website: zcarclubnova.org Washington Z Car Club of Washington Location: Washington State Contact: Marty Molloy Email: twin.turbos@yahoo.com Phone: 425-367-9065 Facebook: facebook.com/DatsunClub Web Based Z Car Clubs Classic Zcar Club Location: Internet Contact: Mike Gholson Website: classiczcars.com

UPCOMING EVENTS ZDayZ Date: May 18-21, 2017 Location: Fontana Village, NC Details: zdayz.com Branson Z Fest 2017 Date: May 31 - June 3, 2017 Location: Branson, MO Details: bransonzfest.com

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Z CAR CLUB MAGAZINE

ZCON 2017 Date: June 20 - June 24, 2017 Location: Austin, TX Details: zcon.org/conventions/2017/