DESN 1375 Fashion in context

BA Fashion Marketing

04 May 2017

Fashion in Context

Yunjin Lee 201064152

Content Introduction Contents A New Age for Gucci Collections Individual Specific Outfit's Tracing-back Look 25 / FALL WINTER 2016 RUNWAY Look 61 / SPRING SUMMER 2017 RUNWAY

Conclusion Images References

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Introduction The recent fashion industry's change is affected by developed technologies and personal lifestyles related to the customers. Furthermore, any of the generations or the cultures are also influencing the fashion regardless of the time period: past, present and the future. What fashion designers now applying into their design is inspirations from the past; adapting vintage and retro-style to intrigue customers by its nostalgia and memories of that era regardless of the level of the market. Particularly, after the luxury brand Gucci changed their main designer, the brand welcomed and represented a new image to the world. Mostly the collections were inspired by the vintage fashion which are familiar with previous generations.

This writing is about how Gucci rebuilt their reputation as a powerful leading fashion brand by introducing two of the example outfits of Gucci's fall and winter 2016 collection and spring and summer 2017 collection; how the brand traced back the trend and interpreted the design into their own sensibility.

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“A New Age for Gucci Collections�

Overall Gucci's collections has been changed significantly since after newly scouted their creative director to Alessandro Michele who is an Italian fashion designer and business executive. In the same time, he was appointed as a creative director of Gucci in January 2015 (Wikipedia. 2017).

After he produced his first women's collection, audiences were excited and the media were also delighted; one of the Times critic, Vanessa Friedman wrote "It wasn't Fashion, it was fashion; a parade of pieces with a nostalgic wardrobe,..."(Mead. 2016). He infused aesthetic of vintage styles into his design and to the brand so that the brand became can lead the new trend among the luxury brands; against the previous brand-named decent and monotonous images. Using diverse colours and patterns are opulently splendid which expressed his boldness of creativity. His inspirations are came from Renaissance mixed with the street style of the past periods' street trends (Milligan.

2016): mixture of 60s to 90s. Michele reminded to the people by opening a Gucci's new prime by evoking nostalgic emotion to the world as a role of leading fashion industry.

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Individual Specific Outfit's Tracing-back

Look 25 / FALL WINTER 2016 RUNWAY Image

From Fall and Winter 2016 collections, the concept of an overall costume seems updated the Western aesthetics coexisting with the oriental beauty; the traditional patterns were reproduced by the brand. The colour of the outfit was balanced in general as a bright green and the silk one-piece resembles a traditional Chinese clothing. This figure is a one of the Chinese traditional outfit called Cheongsam also known as Qipao. It is a typical women dress which was originated from a type of Manchurian female garment; rapidly developed and became popular in early 1900s. Its major characteristics can be a "mandarin collar, fitted waist, Chinese knotted buttons, hemmed slits on two sides, and a tailored form fit.". It was developed actively and positioned as a exceptional women clothing during 1820s~1830s. Nowadays it is not wearable for a formal look, however it is still inspires the fashion. Between the Shanghai style and the Beijing style, western elements added Shanghai style is the main focused design; short hem and small collar style which reveals the wearer’s silhouette. According to that it was usually made from satin brocade, silk, or cotton, Gucci also used a silk as a main textile (Travel China Guide. no date). The pattern of the one-piece is also reproduced outcome of a oriental traditional designed patterns. Flowers and leaves were the common patterns used in general chipao, but Gucci outfit used a traditional Chinese pattern designs. This reproduction of other homeland's design is due to the globalisation; more communication and exchanging information were increasingly available.

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The length of the skirt is adapted from 60's mini skirt; the short length of the skirt was appeared during 1960 by Mary Quant. It was a progressive development in womenswear and due to the younger generation, the trend was quickly adopted with mix-matching with bright coloured tights and high knee socks (Vintage Dancer. no date). Also, there is a supermodel Twiggy who was announced as an unofficial trend icon of the miniskirt look (Bourne. 2014). Also, this is also related to the 'BREAKING DOWN 'Skirt Length Theory'' which shows both confidence and excitement in consuming short skirts, contrasting to the long skirts were worn in gloomy and fearful times (Investopedia. no date).

As a result, it can be demonstrated as a collaboration which social atmosphere and fashion icons made as a trend, maintaining until present.

To think about the tights and stockings, they were a concept of the current lingerie which primarily used as one of the garment elements in the past menswear. Men wore stockings for the first time called hose in 12th century before women even did. It was a knee length and tied at the top, and became two-legged hose as a one garment in the 16th century (History Undressed.2008). Then as time passed, stockings became more and more approachable to women.

Compare to the past materials, stockings with a new invented material in WW2 changed the way of women's purchasing stockings in 1940s: Rayon and Nylon. Most of the colour were monotonous and similar to the skin colour such as natural nude, white, to some extent darker skin tone and occasionally wore pastel stockings (Vintage Dancer. 2017). As mentioned above, a coloured stockings were adopted from 60s. It was an interaction which Twiggy and Quant made as a greatest trend. During the 1960s, the 'bright colours' was one of the method of expressing and communicating the fashion through the world and was the leading trend of that time era.

Brightly coloured tights/stockings were used for balancing or contrast to emphasize an outfit (Style by Portobello. 2016).

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Look 61 / SPRING SUMMER 2017 RUNWAY

The collection of spring and summer 2017 is consisted of a men's style jacket with velvet trim, men's fit wide leg, cuffed ankle pant, yellow silk twill with GG Wallpaper print and a red pointed scarf (Gucci. 2016).

Particularly, the whole outfit is look-a-like as a menswear which recalls a Androgynous look; it is not about emphasizing or disclosing the silhouette of women, the boundary of men and women gradually collapsed and achieved a dressing revolution during in 1980s as a new clothing trend. The start was by Coco Chanle in 1910,then evloutioned gradually by the time (Komar. 2016). It is also influenced by the increasing number of working women to show their new elevated status; because just looking feminine was not considered as suitable (Dallabona.2017). Androgynous look is a fashion which avoids gender stereotype fashion . It is not about a typical men and women based clothing and have received favourable reviews from feminists and LGBTQA in the past (Rebel Circus. no date). Now we can figure that androgyny has become more easily accessible in modern fashion as Gucci reinterpreted it.

When it comes to the colour palette, overall outfit is consisted of green, light blue, chrome yellow and red.

These bold and outstanding usage of colours can be described as a primary colour; this colour palette is more than just balancing the colours, but each of them are self-assertive. This palette resembles basically of Hippie fashion in 1960s. In addition, these mix-match of colour usage were illustrating the bright and lively impression. This is also a differentiated point of the past Androgynous look, because it became more 7 colourful.

The actual print that they used in yellow blouse is what Gucci used in the past; Alessandro brought back this vintage print into the new collection as a new shape. Continuously repeated cube shaped patterns give a rhythmical movement and this pattern seems influenced by one of the Hippie fashion : op art (Schwanke. no date). Op art is a abstract work made of black and white successive pieces. It gives an optical illusion which impresses the viewers by the "movement, hidden images, flashing and vibrating patterns, or of swelling or warping." (Wikipedia. 2017). With this, vintage print which influenced by op art pattern was updated as a classic shape in the present by Alessandro.

For the last, a mid-heel white leather loafer keeps the femininity while eliminating the classification of men and women. The general shape of the shoes is a high-heeled platform design. This wearing high heel is deeply related to the past feminists. If the high heel was persisted as an appealing element for the opposite gender in 1960, it was also supported by the other side of the women who objected wearing high heels in 1980s. High heels can be a representing dominance and authority with providing satisfaction (Chulalongkorn University. 2012). The foundation of the platform design was started in ancient Greece, a goddess Aphrodite; it was made for the actors be seen taller at that era. Furthermore,the history of platform style of shoes goes back to the past 1300's Middle East. It was rather made for the convenience as a functional purpose. After that in 1970, platform was widely became popular among the public, regarded as a party look fashion shoe (Startup Fashion. 2015).

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Conclusion The 21st century of fashion is more like a rapid changing stream of fashion which affected by various factors within customers' desire. And the past fashion also took apart as an influential factor as called as a vintage style. Then what makes 'vintage' fashion became more and more popular? The influence of accepting vintage trends was due to the customers who wanted to buy more unique and welcomed a change from the generic high street fashion styles. The active customers whom fed up with the current trend and have higher individualism changed other brands to customise the new value.

Consequently, increasing number of brands started to find unique vintage inspirations, including luxury fashion brands. Among the others, what Gucci's latest collection represented to the world was not just showing the sensation of the past decades, it was a creation of the culture what Gucci re-interpreted, modified, re-worked and modernized in view of their own brand designer's sight.

Images

Page-1 Figure 1) Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Advertisement Campaign Video Gucci. 2016. Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Advertisement Campaign Video.

[Online].[Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.chikoshoes.com/blog/gucci-fall-winter-2016-ad-campaign-video/ Figure 2) Gucci logo Lanapedia. no date .Gucci logo. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: http://lanadelrey.wikia.com/wiki/File:GUCCI_logo.png Page-2 Figure 3) Gucci’s SS17 Campaign Features Lions, Tigers and Giraffes, Oh My Cho, M. 2016. Gucci’s SS17 Campaign Features Lions, Tigers and Giraffes, Oh My. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/12/14/gucci-ss17-campaign/#slide-2 Page-3 Figure 4) GucciGhost modal silk shawl Gucci. 2017. GucciGhost modal silk shawl. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/men/mens-accessories/mens-scarves/mens-sh awls/guccighost-modal-silk-shawl-p-4532204G8656568?position=22&listNam e=ProductGridComponent&categoryPath=Men/Mens-Accessories/Mens-Scarv es

Page-5 Figure 9) Gucci. 2016. Look 25. [Online]. [Accessed on 01/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/lo/runway/women/fall-winter-2016-runway/look25-p-FW16_FSWLook25U Figure 10) Qipao (Qi'pao) China Today. no date. Qipao (Qi'pao). [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017].

Available from: http://www.chinatoday.com/culture/qipao/qipao.htm Figure 11) Antique Chinese Silk Embroidery Textile As Art. no date. Antique Chinese Silk Embroidery. [Online].

[Accessed on 04/04/2017]. Available from: http://textileasart.com/chinese-textiles-2882.htm Figure 12) Evolution of Qipao Cheongsam dress Little Qipao. 2016. Evolution of Qipao Cheongsam dress. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.littleqipao.com/2016/09/24/evolution-of-qipao-cheongsam-dress/ Page-6 Figure 13) Bold Colors, Short “Mini” Shift Dresses Vintage Dancer. 2017. Bold Colors, Short “Mini” Shift Dresses. [Online].

[Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: http://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-fashion-womens/

Figure 5) Gucci Features Only Models of Colour in a New Campaign Gonzales, E. 2017. Gucci Features Only Models of Colour in a New Campaign. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/photography/news/g8760/gucci-pre-fal l-2017-ads-diveristy/

Figure 14) 18th Century Stockings – how shocking!

All Things Georgian. 2015. 18th Century Stockings – how shocking!. [Online].

[Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: https://georgianera.wordpress.com/2015/03/31/18th-century-stockings-how-sh ocking/

Page-4 Figure 6,7) Gucci Goes Full 'Lost in Translation' for Fall 2016 Ad Campaign Klein, A,V. 2016. Gucci Goes Full 'Lost in Translation' for Fall 2016 Ad Campaign. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: http://fashionista.com/2016/06/gucci-fall-2016-campaign

Figure 15) twiggy-and-grace-60s-fashion Romantique. 2016. twiggy-and-grace-60s-fashion. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: http://romantiqueandrebel.com/the-candy-coloured-jackie-dress-or-why-i-lovethe-60s/twiggy-and-grace-60s-fashion/

Figure 8) Vanessa Redgrave for Gucci Cruise 2017 Ad Campaign Cafaro,V. 2016. Vanessa Redgrave for Gucci Cruise 2017 Ad Campaign.

[Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available form: http://www.fashionisers.com/fashion-news/vanessa-redgrave-gucci-cruise-201 7-campaign/

Page-7 Figure 16,17) Look61 SPRING SUMMER 2017 RUNWAY Gucci. 2016. Look61 SPRING SUMMER 2017 RUNWAY. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/lo/runway/women/spring-summer-2017-runway/l ook-61-p-SS17_FSWLook61US

Figure 18) Which period in the history of clothing fashion would you prefer to live in?

NeoGAF. 2012.[Online]. Which period in the history of clothing fashion would you prefer to live in?. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=41999256 Figure 19) The Evolution Of Androgynous Fashion Throughout The 20th Century — PHOTOS Komar, M. 2016. The Evolution Of Androgynous Fashion Throughout The 20th Century — PHOTOS. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.bustle.com/articles/149928-the-evolution-of-androgynous-fashion -throughout-the-20th-century-photos Page-8 Figure 20) GG Wallpaper print silk shirt Gucci. 2016. GG Wallpaper print silk shirt. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/women/womens-ready-to-wear/womens-tops-s hirts/gg-wallpaper-print-silk-shirt-p-471505ZIX647781?listName=LookDetail sCarouselComponent&position=2 Figure 21) op art necker cube grasshoppermind. 2012. op art necker cube. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: https://grasshoppermind.wordpress.com/2012/03/12/op-art-necker-cubes/ Figure 22) 3m x3m op art black and 1960 op art websites. no date. 3m x3m op art black and. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: http://artillery.org.uk/c/709d0d6ffab0176b66038e7009f931fe Figure 23) GG Wallpaper print silk scarf Gucci. 2017. GG Wallpaper print silk scarf. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/women/womens-accessories/gg-wallpaper-prin t-silk-scarf-p-4646883G0015874 Figure 24) “On a Pedestal” The History of Platform Shoes anibundel. 2014. “On a Pedestal” The History of Platform Shoes. [Online].

[Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: https://anibundel.com/2014/04/18/on-a-pedestal-the-history-of-platform-shoes/

Figure 25) Studded leather Horsebit loafers Gucci. 2016. Studded leather Horsebit loafers. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/women/womens-shoes/womens-pumps/studde d-leather-horsebit-loafers-p-470970C9D009022?listName=LookDetailsCarous elComponent&position=4 Figure 26) Gucci’s SS17 Campaign Features Lions, Tigers and Giraffes, Oh My Cho, M. 2016. Gucci’s SS17 Campaign Features Lions, Tigers and Giraffes, Oh My. [Online]. [Accessed on 03/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/12/14/gucci-ss17-campaign/#slide-2

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Schwanke, C. no date. 1960s Hippie Fashion. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/24/2017]. Available from: http://womens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/1960s_Hippie_Fashion

Chulalongkorn University. 2012. History of High Heels. [Online]. [Accessed on 24/04/2017]. Available from: http://history-of-heels.weebly.com/the-20th-century.html

Startup Fashion. 2015. Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of Platform Shoes. [Online]. [Accessed on 01/05/2017]. Available from: https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-history-of-platform-shoes/

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Gucci. 2016. Look 61. [Online]. [Accessed on 20/03/2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/lo/runway/women/spring-summer-2017-runw ay/look-61-p-SS17_FSWLook61EU History Undressed. 2008. History of Socks and Stockings. [Online]. [Accessed on 02/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.historyundressed.com/2008/12/history-of-socks-and-stockings.htm l Investopedia. no date. Skirt Length Theory. [Online]. [Accessed on 02/05/2017]. Available from: http://www.investopedia.com/terms/s/skirtlengththeory.asp Komar, M. 2016. The Evolution Of Androgynous Fashion Throughout The 20th Century — PHOTOS. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.bustle.com/articles/149928-the-evolution-of-androgynous-fashion -throughout-the-20th-century-photos Mead, R. 2016. Gucci's Renaissance Man. [Online]. [Accessed on 18/04/2017].

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Travel China Guide. no date. Cheongsam (Qipao). [Online]. [Accessed on 02/05/2017]. Available from: https://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/clothing/cheongsam/ Wikipedia. 2017. Alessandro Michele. [Online]. [Accessed on 18/04/2017].

Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alessandro_Michele Wikipedia. 2017. Op art. [Online]. [Accessed on 04/04/2017]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Op_art Vintage Dancer. 2017. 1940s Stockings: Hosiery, Nylons, and Socks History.

[Online]. [Accessed on 02/05/2017]. Available from: http://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-stockings-history/ Vintage Dancer. 2017. 1960s Style Skirts. [Online]. [Accessed on 02/05/2017].

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