DESN 1375 Fashion in Context -Semester 1

Introduction Introduction

1990s

Pass through all 19th century,

1990 figure1

was the last decade of its century to welcome a new century. Discrimination which ranked people were gradually disappeared and the period of equality arrived.

More and more people wanted to get into a wave of information via technology and this led to a development in wider media industry. People were not just busy only for struggling for their lives, but also could afford to look around their surroundings and themselves. Effected by these changes, fashion in history had a difference into several ways.

figure1 Cologne, street photography in the 80s-90s.

2012

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3,007(3,000 +0.23%) words DESN 1375 Fashion in Context figure2 BACK STREET HIGH WYCOMBE MID 90'S . 2010

Yunjin Lee Fashion Marketing Student ID 201064152 2

The changes in

90s

figure3 Opening of Channel Tunnel Poster. 1994

6 May 1992

Link between London and Paris by the Channel Tunnel.

The Channel opened in May,1992 which was the longest tunnel as located in under the sea. It was about 50km long in total, connecting London with Paris. (BBC. 2014) People were excited about this new transportation since this was what they always desired to be. To this, there were more increased number of people coming and going more frequently.

figure4 Black Wednesday.1992.

16 September 1992

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'Black Wednesday'

Britain was part of the European Union's Exchange Rate Mechanism(ERM) since 1990, but after the German's unity, the value of the exchange rate's fluctuation was changed. The hedge fund tried to prevent devaluing the pound, but the governments decided to leave the ERM because of the dissatisfaction and disadvantage at the end.(BBC. 2014) It was a incident that showed the correlation of the politics and the economy.

figure5 Bloomberg. no date

1 January 1999

European Single Currency without Britain

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The European single currency strategy for using 'euro' was untrustworthy to the Britain and this happened due to a concern what happened in 'Black Wednesday'. So they decided not to be a member of it and left as not joined country. However, the 'euro' was started in 1999 as an electronic currency for using in most of the places like in banks, foreign exchange dealers, big firms and stock markets.(BBC. 2014)

Sportswear in Boom

The interest about workout, body line and health management was started from 80s and this made the fitness outfits to become as a fashion in 90s.The primarily valued was the textile; considering how much can be more comfortable and can be moved flexible and actively during the workout. And the Lycra was the fibre excogitated to satisfy the requirements.Lycra is a fabric which means an elastic polyurethane fibre or fabric used especially for close-fitting sports clothing (Oxford living dictionaries. [online] version. no date) Combination of Lycra/cotton and Lycra/nylon was the most actively used fabrics. (Feldman. 1992.p.32-33)

Before the outfit got trendy, there was a designer who started using a Lycra as a main fibre for its garments.

Azzedine Alaïa was a designer who mostly worked to gave wider publicity about usage of Lycra as a sensual bandage styled garments. Further on, in 1991, it was broadly spread to the European countries for their holiday fashion especially in Spain and Italy. As mentioned above, its quality improved when it was combined with other fibres. Approximately 2-6% of Lycra and Spandex addition was required to make jeans, skirts and other clothes for flexible wearing. (Thomas. no date-a) In making workout outfits, there were variety of shapes put based on tight-fitting so that can reveal the body shape with elasticity. Cropped top with cycle pants and high-waisted, leggings or body suit became the mode.

These efforts made sportswear as a fashion trend and there were sport stars as a fashion innovator.(Feldman.1992.p.35) For example, Andre Agassi was not only famous for his talented ability, also his neon, vivid-coloured sportswear style. With his long hair at that time, coordinated in colour matched nike shoes and outfits are outstanding among his fans.

figure6 figure6 Fitness fashion, Workout and Fitness. no date

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The anxiety of environment was always existed in the life and it was a task for the men to solve to search for the way to develop the industry while preserve the green. More specifically, global warming came up as a problem with issuing the climate change, pollution and overflowing waste.

Eco in Fashion Since society started to concern about the environment seriously, enterprises and consumers also considered about environmental problems and tried to take responsible for this. The fashion industries developed as an eco-friendly clothing as a green fashion to move with the times. What people excogitated was recycling the garments and using the organic fibres. People Tree is one of the example of company implemented a fair-trade and selling organic products.(Worsley. 2011.p.204) First, the Label Howies (howies. no date-a) launched in 1995 is a company selling outdoor garments made of organic cotton for all men and women. They based in West Wales and showed their identity by the font they made. It was designed by Phil Carter and Carter Wong Design designers, suggesting the nature friendly character by using the tree ring craft from chestnut tree.(howies. no date-b)

figure13 People Tree. no date

figure14 Martin Margiela. no date

Furthermore, People Tree(People Tree.2001) is another eco-friendly fashion company. It is recognised as the leader of the ethical and environmentally sustainable fashion by the relevant people around fashion. Cooperated with the operators related with fair trade and all the parties concerned, made a great effort to give publicity about eco fashion collections for over twenty-five years.

Since fair trade contributed not only in environmental improvement, also made positive effects on society, attracted worldwide attention. It changed the cognition about the meaning of the fashion with word ethical and eco-friendly.

Differentiate with the fast changing trends, high quality, fashionable and easy approachable ways made people of all ages and both sexes to access to ecological fashion. People Tree gained the name of the World Fair Trade Organisation Fair Trade product mark as a pioneer in 2013. People Tree developed the first integrated supply chain for organic cotton from farm to final product and we were the first organisation anywhere to achieve GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification on a supply chain entirely in the developing world. They guaranteed using organic cotton, non-biodegradable materials and dyeing skills without azo with natural and recycled garments to minimize the harmful consequences on environment. At the same time, they used delivery process only by the vessel, not the plane. This was for decreasing the effect on global warming. These efforts affected to the high-fashion brands, for example, Topshop collaborated with them as one of their collection in june, 2006.(Stokes. 2006) In addition, there were a movement in around designers for pursuing eco friendly or second-handed garments in making their clothes. For instance, as the recycling designer, Martin Margiela is who peruse the sustainable style in fashion. His unique and experimental transforming in fashion garments are transformed from vintage and second-handed clothes. The inaugural collection for Spring/Summer 1989 opened the era to gather focus of the public attention to recycling fashion.(Danyelle.2007)

The dance in 90s was called line dance which was inspired from western countries. It was about enjoying every gender with cowboy styling outfits.(Thomas. no date-b)

Line Dancing D

The music was about country music which can be looked countrified, but in different version for 90s generation. Match with the music the outfit was mostly influenced by the rural figures like wearing boots, jeans or the cowboy shirts which were entering to the basic steps.(Leaf Fashion, Style & Personal Care Editor. no date) It was not about wearing the formal garments nor about rough movement dancing, it was just having fun with their mates and the outfits were helping them to have more fun and enjoy.

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figure7 Line Dance. nodate figure8 cowboy dance. nodate figure9 Twist & Pout. no date

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Towards Down

figure10“Grunge & Glory.” Vogue, December 1992.

On right: Kristen McMenamy in Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs.

Photo: Steven Meisel. figure11“Garden Party.” Harper’s Bazaar, February 1993. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier

Interest in fashion was not only for the designers and higher level, but also to everyone. Decisively, this got more mounted after the public got exposed to the information via Internet. The way people accept their style was not reliable anymore, and individually achieved by searching themselves. In other ways, the means how people treated about clothing was changed toward several decades. They did not have to be classic and formal for every time since the garments were not fixed.

Wearing casual and relaxed was more respected by people according to their life styles. As a result, upper- level turned their attention to the lower level's mode after they fed up with theirs. Respecting and respected own characteristic was also responded slightly by the fashion industry as an action holding a show about lower class's fashion trends.

It was started from Seattle word 'grunge' originated by 1960s meaning dirty. (Worsley. 2011. p.196-97) Dressing down, scruffy look of mismatched and layered clothes were called anti-fashion. There were three designers who were represented as a pathfinder of grunge trend: Marc Jacobs, Christian Francis Roth and Anna Sui. Not only Marc Jacobs was well-known for his grunge show for Perry Ellis and at the same time, Anna Sui's Spring and Summer catwalk collection introduced grunge as a show both in 1993. Jacob said on one of the interview, his grunge collection as a “hippied romantic version of punk.”. It looked a combined figures of hippie styling and punk characteristics.(Borrelli-Persson.2015) Used various sense of hippie colours with damaged and mix-matched textures of punk style gave off these atmosphere on his design. However, it was not accepted as a high fashion to open a show so that he was fired at that time. It was more considered as a lower class's fashion so it needed for a time to be accepted. And the acceptance of this was determined due to the famous entertainers and the young generation customers. Since many of celebrities started to wear like Johnny Depp, Drew Barrymore, Kim Gordon(Castilo.2016), the young followed the stream of this trend. As a result, it located as a iconic fashion trend during the 90s.

Look Grunge

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'A scruffy look of mismatched and layered clothes, rarely fitting perfectly'.

Tattoo is a mark with an indelible design by inserting pigment into punctures in the skin.(Oxford living dictionaries.[online] version. no date) It was regarded as a subculture for few people. But after people got interested in this, tattoo studios changed into the shops or parlours in late 60s. Most of the customers were men and few were women in proportion. Over and over, the number of tattooists and equipments increased. Even society started to accept it as a social and cultural consequence, some of them still thought having a tattoo was a symptomatic of deficiency; immature development of emotions or psychotic disorders. However, people's perception changed into positive way after entering into the 90s; it was regarded as one of the ways that can express themselves just as the skin art.(John and Craig.1993.p.83-89) As a result, tattoos are considered as a popular accessories just as other fashion items. Unlike discriminated period, spotlighted by the public since every celebrities especially models and actresses started to have them in 90s. (Worsley.2011.p.145) Eve Salvail was a 90s model who showed the effects of having a tattoo as a fashion. Her bold hair style and dragon tattoo on her skin made her to appeal people from distinguishable appearance.

The tattoos can be positioned on ankle, wrist, arm or can be seen or concealed places. Especially, tattoos in that decade were inspired by the modernism. Vivid, eye-catching colours and large scale of the patterns like a pop arts were the core and also cartoon characters were also used.

To go further back, after the war around 60s and 70s, the nonmainstream such as hippies and bikers had tattoos as expressions of resistance and autonomy. Rolling stone, the cosmos, merchant marines, castles, and fairies are the examples. After over time, expert artists were became as a tattooist to draw their artistic value on skin not on the canvas."The fine-arts movement in tattooing has been growing since the '80s," said Massacre. With clients' demand and artists' cooperation, the scale of tattoo got bigger and exquisitely developed. Also, the equipments like needles and the ink were changed for more safety so that people can enjoy having a tattoo more before.(Devash. 2016)

figure12 Eve-Salvail. no date

Tattoos

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style icon

Since the public exposed to the mass media, fashion trends were easily spread out by many people than before. And the trend what people mimicked was particularly from which celebrities wore.

Within this influence, they were called as fashion icons. Icon is a person or the thing regarded as a representative symbol or as worthy of veneration.(Oxford living dictionaries.[online] version. no date) As the word icon combined with the fashion, it gained the meaning of particular person or the style as a leader of the trend.

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figure15 Blur vs Oasis. 2016 figure16 Marie Claire. 2016 figure17 figure18 Getty Images. no date

figure15 figure17

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Clueless, "As if!"

The movie characters were also the target for the envy and desire among young generation. The movie 'Clueless'(1995)'s heroine was the fashion leading icon in that era. This movie contains forward-looking elements like a computerized, virtual closet and 90s dream girl of high school teenage girls. Cher Horowitz (Alicia Silverstone) was an iconic fashion leader of the 90s fashion to the girls especially with her yellow plaid suit. Mona May, designer of the Clueless costume, tried to gave a cool, adorable, girly impression to the audiences and had a huge effect onto the fashion industry and the street fashion for over a decade.(Pieri. 2016) Not just for the yellow suit, her hair bands, white Calvin Klein's dress, and mix-matched bustier fashion were all eye-catching points of this movie.

Even over the decades, it still used as a material. For example, the young teenage model with a signer wore a similar cloth as a Cher on a magazine(Sidhu.2016) and also, one of the online shopping mall actually sell the costume. Furthermore, Iggy Azalea(Fancy.2014) made a music video 'fancy' as a remake version of clueless.

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figure20 figure19 Jacket and skirt Yandy.com, top Uniqlo. 2016 figure20 Everett Collection. 1995 figure21 Iggy Azalea- Fancy. 2014

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Glamorous with womanly ďŹ gure was the general looks up to 1980. And fashion brands and designers phased out to seek for a new image to inspire them. Kate Moss was appeared as 90s most notable model for her skinny and epicene beauty compare to the other models around that period. She was having a waif-like skinny body shape with decadent and dreamlike atmosphere. "Kate was a young girl like any other, but with a certain teenage air about her that was piercing," said Ross. "She was against the grain of any other look of the time. She was a cool kid and refreshing in that sense. She just had an attitude and an expression that kind of came easy, I guess." (Allexander,2013) This made her as a leader of 'heroin chic' trend. 'Heroin Chic' is the style or the look associated with a fashion, especially characterized for very thin, wan fashion models. The origin was in 80s,however, it was suffered as a negative reviews and it approved as a trend in 90s.(Arnold. 2015. p.284) Working with Calvin Klein's made her as a style icon since 1993, "Obsession" perfume commercial, which was rejected by Vanessa Paradis because of the exposure. But Kate gained a fame with this; at that time she was only 18 years old.(Karmali. 2012) From this, with her own girlish, stirring up protective instinct and individual mask, started to emerge as a top model. After this, the underwear advertisement also got big and people showed a more focusing tendency on her. However, 1990s fashion trend was seem as a trickle-up tendency so that young generations were desired to be their fashion icons and role models. Because of this, she was harshly criticized for having negative effects to teenage girls to make them have excessive dieting and anorexia. But still she remained as a standard form as a model in fashion industries.

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Kate Moss figure23

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figure22 Calvin Klein. 1992 figure23 Vogue cover page. 1993 figure24“Obsession". 1993

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'We are All One' via Internet!

Development in Internet took an important role in fashion industry from the past, but unfortunatelynot everyone can use the internet. Usually people watched advertisements via traditional media like television or the radio. In 1993(Rosenberg.2016), rapid spread of internet and in the same time generalized to the public made a sharp increase in usage of website. This made people to explore diverse cultures with exchanging them and removed a cultural-barrier. Furthermore, in fashion industry, sales network grew via communication, fax, and so on. Fashion trends also speeded its information transmission world-widely.

Industry started to adopt tools and functions for marketing process like email, Flash and PDF, JPEG, and MP3 for file formats.

"Integrated Marketing," which steadily communicate with consumers so that gather the database of their needs. Using the web made an interactive influence on marketing with customers. (Ad Age Content Strategy Studio.2015) For example, in 1995, 'eBay'(digital-curator. 2008); mail order sales appeared. The ebay was started by Pierre Omidyar in September 1995 as his first online marketplace called ' Auction Web'. After he decided to focus on this, he added a function of feedback facilities to rate each buyers and sellers for their safety. Then changed the name to 'eBay' in 1997, which customers called at that time.

This made nowadays online action so that people can buy and sell their garments. For another sample for the influence in relationship between consumers and the fashion industry, there is a The Webby Award. It is a website about broadcasting the ranking the year's most outstanding issues what people searched on internet. It was established in 1996 during the web's initial stage presented by the International Academy of Digital Arts and Sciences(IADAS). They are introducing themselves as "The Webby Awards is the leading international award honouring excellence on the internet.". For instance, Paul Smith awarded as a 2000's webby award.(The Webby Award. 2000) The usage of internet in fashion was not simply about uploading the trendy information. It developed in all retail processes like delivery, exportation and importation which can decide the industrial margin and in real-time exchanging the date world widely. With these, globalization in slow progress took a fast motion.

figure25 ebay. no date

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18 figure26 BOB'S COMPUTER SERVICE & REPAIR. no date

Conclusion There were lots of trials and errors to go forward and the 1990 was a preparatory period for greeting the new world.

What people imagined about our future in 90s was concurred in some degree like as an IT improvement or the accepting the lower cultural differences, and was not in somewhat like solving the problem with the environment. However, there is no doubt that 90s will going to be figured high and will give an ideal attitude how to face with the change that we aimed to the future generation.

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figure18 Martin Godwin. no date. Getty Images. [Online]. [Accessed on 8 Dec 2016]. Available from: http://hellogiggles.com/drew-barrymore-90s-style-icon-still/ figure19 Weber, B. 2016. Jacket and skirt Yandy.com, top Uniqlo .

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