X. Directoire, Empire & Romantic Period

Background

In the 1795–1820 fashion era, casual or undress fashions finally prevailed over the brocades, lace, periwigs, and powder of the earlier 18th century in European and Europeaninfluenced nations No one wanted to appear to be a member of the French aristocracy following the French Revolution, so individuals started using clothing more as a way to express their actual selves than just as a way to show their social standing.

As a result, the changes in fashion that took place at the beginning of the 19th century gave people the chance to portray new public identities that also revealed details about their private lives. As stated by Katherine Aaslestad, "fashion, embodying new social values, emerged as a key site of confrontation between tradition and change "

Women's wear

Beginning in the Directorie and Empire era, a low-necked gown and a simple, highwaisted empire silhouette were the go-to looks The front of dresses grew constricting, while the increased back waist gave space for walking. More people favoured the colour white than any other. Their outfits were getting more adorned with ornamentation.

Undergarment Chemise and Bodice: They wore chemises, also known as shifts, which were thin white cotton garments with short, tight sleeves and a simple hem that had a lower neckline than the dress. The front of the dress was fastened tightly to the figure by a fitting "Bodice or Corset "

Petticoats, Drawers, and Stockings: They also wore petticoats during this time. The majority of dress skirts had front openings so that the petticoat worn underneath could be seen. The hems of the petticoats were embellished with rows of tucks, lace, or ruffles.

Short-legged knickers called "drawers" were formerly only worn by men. However, several women also started wearing it at this time. Separately, they were fastened around the waist. Before braces were invented in the late 19th century, stockings, which were frequently white or pale flesh in colour, were held up below the knee by garters made of silk or knitted cotton.

Men's wear

Men began donning cut-and-tailored vests and coats made of luxurious or vibrant fabrics during this time. Dark hues were practically required. White muslin shirts and blue tailcoats with gold buttons gained enormous popularity. They also began wearing trousers, or baggy, loose-fitting trousers, at home and as outerwear Typically, wool, cotton, and buckskin were replacing silk as more practical fabrics.

Coats: Tall standing collars and long skirts or tails were features of the cutaway front coats During this time, lapels shrank in size and began to have an M-shaped notch

Shirts: Shirts were made of linen, had connected collars, and could be worn with stocks or cravats tied in a variety of ways By the top of the century, frills with pleats at the cuffs and front opening were no longer in style.

Waistcoats: High-waisted waistcoats had a squared-off bottom. These were frequently stand-collar, wide-lapel, double-breasted garments Large lapels that extended beyond the jacket's lapels went out of style in the early Empire period, as did the directories' custom of leaving the coat unbuttoned. Waistcoats also gradually lost their prominence. In the past, waistcoats were typically striped vertically. Waistcoats with horizontal stripes and plain white backgrounds were both popular by 1810. Waistcoats with high collars were in style.

Overcoats: Greatcoats or overcoats were in style, frequently with contrasting velvet or fur collars. The "Garrick" overcoat, commonly referred to as a coachman's coat, was another style that became quite popular. It had three to five short caplets sewn to the collar.

Pants: During this time, males first began to wear trousers, or pantalones The leather riding breeches grew longer and more fitting. For stylish, fashionable streetwear, this extended to the tops of the boots and was replaced by pantaloons or pants The typical male dress has changed in great part as a result of the French Revolution.

Accessories

For younger men started wearing their hair short and curly around this time, frequently with lengthy sideburns. The Bedford Crop, Brutus, and the New Styles all gained popularity.

Older males, military personnel, and several traditionally conservative professions, including law, the judiciary, medicine, and domestic service, employed wigs and powder.

With time, tricorne and bicorne hats started to go out of style, but the tall, somewhat conical hat remained in style

However, most ladies especially upper-class women, wore their hair in an updo with long hair throughout this time. Cleanliness and orderliness were crucial. Married ladies kept donning the linen mob hats, which grew wider at the sides to protect the ears

During this time, the women began to carry handbags and gloves The rectangular, fabriccovered handbags or purses, known as Reticules, were produced in this style. Additionally, they used parasols to shield their skin from the sun The designs, colours, and sizes of parasols varied, and they were thin, light objects.

Both upper-class men and women used paper or silk fans printed with popular scenes from Asian culture or ivory and wood sticks.

Grooming & Styling

Most women use white or light-colored loose face powder on their face and neck. Pink-red lip colour or gloss was employed, along with delicate pink rouge to groom and deepen eyebrows, eyelashes, and eyelids.

Emma, Lady Hamilton

Dame Emma Hamilton, often known as Lady Hamilton, was an English maid, model, dancer, and actress. She was born Amy Lyon on April 26, 1765, and died on January 15, 1815 She started her career in London's demi-monde, becoming the mistress of several affluent men before ending up with the naval hero Lord Nelson, and was George Romney's go-to subject for his portraits

She married Sir William Hamilton, the British ambassador to the Kingdom of Naples, when she was 26 years old. While there, she enjoyed success at court, made friends with the queen, a sister of Marie Antoinette, and met Nelson.

How Directoire, Empire & Romantic Period influenced the current trends.