
20 minute read
Concours of Elegance
from Your West End
HAMPTON COURT PALACE, 2-4 SEPTEMBER
The Concours of Elegance, presented by A. Lange & Söhne, will celebrate its 10th anniversary by featuring a jaw dropping selection of future classics, as well as some of the very finest pre-war British motor cars - including a million-pound 1920s Vauxhall. The selection will star as part of a wider Concours display featuring 70 of the world’s rarest, most spectacular vehicles, assembled in the immaculate grounds of Hampton Court Palace from the 2nd to 4th September.
Assembled by the Concours’ panel of internationally renowned experts, the event will bring together the rarest and most innovative motor cars from recent times, machines that stand out - even in exceptional company. This wonderful range of future icons will include a very special Bugatti, the limited-run Divo, one of just 40 examples produced worldwide. The event will also welcome a Bugatti of the 1990s, high-tech supercar that has come into its own in recent years, finally getting the recognition it deserves: the Bugatti EB110. The car that will be on display this September is the only right-hand drive example, built for the 1994 British Motor Show. It was fitted with a prototype ‘SuperSport’ engine as well as prototype SS body parts, and was used to develop the higherperformance variant. It left the factory with 603bhp, up on the standard car’s 553bhp, and was capable of 0-60mph in just 3.2 seconds, and 220 mph flat out. This particular model - perhaps the most special of the 139 EB110s built - has been restored, and upgraded further in recent years, with new pistons and turbos fitted by Dauer, liberating 645bhp from this remarkable engine. Enthusiasts won’t want to miss this spectacular, and increasingly sought after ‘90s supercar.
The glamorous automotive extravaganza will also welcome the most revered - and indeed valuable - Vauxhall of all, the 1925 30/98 Wensum Tourer. When new the high-performance, sporting car - known as the “King of Thoroughbreds” - was locked in fierce competition with the Bentley 4.5-litre. Launched back in 1913 as the 30/98 Velox, the model was upgraded in 1922 to become the ‘OE’, with a cutting-edge overhead valve engine. Performance was highly impressive, with over 100 mph possible. The car that will be

on show at Hampton Court is the most special 30/98 variant, one of just 12 cars supplied with the ‘ultra-sporting’ Wensum body, the light weight of which gave them even more sprightly performance. With its dramatic V-shaped windshield, head-turning ‘boat tail’ coachwork - inspiration for which was taken from contemporary speedboat design - the Wensum was among the most stylish cars of its day. Chassis OE259 is particularly striking with its gleaming chrome finish. It is believed to be one of just six surviving cars, and likely the most original of all, its interior largely unchanged since it left the Vauxhall factory nigh on 100 years ago. One of the last cars produced by the marque before its takeover by General Motors in 1926, the Vauxhall 30/98s retains a particular significance in British automotive history. These fine Edwardian motor cars are, particularly in ultra-rare Wensum Tourer form, highly-coveted by collectors, changing hands - on the rare occasions they come to market - for high six figure fees, with one recent example even breaching seven figures, and becoming the first million pound Vauxhall.
Outside the main display of vehicles, the Concours of Elegance will assemble around 1,000 further cars in a series of special features and displays, as well as a live collector car auction by Gooding & Co. Away from the automotive displays, Concours of Elegance will once again be an occasion of pure luxury, with champagne provided by Charles Heidsieck, picnics by Fortnum & Mason, and a collection of art, jewellery and fashion displays. Presenting Partner A. Lange & Söhne will once again showcase some of its most intricate timepieces including a very special limited edition piece to be auctioned in November.
Partner of the Concours of Elegance since 2018, A. Lange & Söhne will this year introduce a very special watch: the unique version of the 1815 Chronograph with a hinged cuvette. This exclusive timepiece will be auctioned off on 6 November 2022 at the Geneva Watch Auction XVI for the benefit of The Prince’s Trust. The charitable organisation was founded by HRH The Prince of Wales in 1976 and supports young people aged 11 to 30 to develop essential life skills, get ready for work, and access job opportunities. “We are proud to have the opportunity to support the important work of The Prince’s Trust,” said Wilhelm Schmid. The Lange CEO is convinced that each child, regardless of their upbringing and social background, should have a fair chance of self-fulfilment and a happy future.
Since it was introduced in 2004, the 1815 Chronograph has stood for the alliance between classic design and progressive technology. With artisanal perfection and refined details, its design
is fully focused on optimised legibility. Thus, the dial with Arabic numerals, the railwaytrack minute scale, and the slightly shifted subsidiary dials are reminiscent of the A. Lange & Söhne’s historic pocket watches.
Crafted explicitly for this year’s Concours of Elegance, the 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition” stands out with a unique combination of features: For the first time, a white-gold case meets a black dial with sandstone-coloured numerals and scales. The tachometer scale on the peripheral - which enables the calculation of average speeds - emphasises the historic connection between motor sport and time measurement.
The rhodié-coloured subsidiary dials for the small seconds and the minute counter contrast well with the black dial. Good legibility is also assured by the rhodiumed case-matched gold hands for the hours and minutes as well as by the rhodiumed steel hands for the chrono seconds, the subsidiary seconds, and the minute counter. The elegance of the concept is accentuated with a black handstitched alligator leather strap that is secured with a prong buckle in solid white gold.
The selection of one of the most beautiful flyback chronographs for the “Concours Edition” also builds a bridge between motor sport and time measurement. The hinged cuvette, handengraved with the logo of the Concours of Elegance, conceals the Lange calibre L951.5 movement launched in 2010. It is assembled twice and features a column-wheel control, a precisely jumping minute counter, and a flyback function. The manually wound calibre has a power reserve of 60 hours. A large cam-poised balance wheel driven by a freely oscillating hairspring crafted in-house assures excellent rate accuracy. With its frequency of 18,000 semioscillations per hour (2.5 hertz), the watch displays stopped times to an accuracy of one-fifth of a second.
The sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the lavishly handfinished chronograph mechanism. A subtly composed choice of different materials and surface decorations emphasises the three-dimensionality of the open movement architecture. This highlights the details of the complex switching processes as well as the artistically hand-engraved balance cock with Lange’s iconic whiplash spring. Thanks to its floral motif, this small but magnificently decorated part of the movement makes every Lange timepiece recognisable - the engraver’s personal signature also makes the 1815 Chronograph a unique piece.
Tickets to the Concours of Elegance 2022 are available from just £35 for half-day entry, with full threecourse hospitality packages from £320. Tickets can be bought from concoursofelegance.co.uk/tickets




BEAUTIFULLY BRONZED
Inspired by the open road and a customised motorbike crafted by the artisans of Meister Engineering, Raymond Weil have unveiled the new Freelancer Bronze Chronograph 7780. This new model is an eye-catching vintage-inspired watch, but, just in case your heart is racing at the thought of it, the timepiece comes with a highly useful pulsometer scale.
Creativity is at the heart of everything that Raymond Weil does and continues to be a quality the company recognises in others. A few months ago, the company wanted to procure a customised motorbike for promotional purposes. As a result, it turned to the specialist firm, Meister Engineering, visiting its showroom in the centre of Geneva. The company, comprising artisans and engineers, reimagines standard motorbikes, imbuing them with its own distinctive blend of creativity, style and mechanical virtue.
Ultimately, the two-wheeled work of art inspired the Genevan watch brand to create a bronze timepiece equipped with a chronograph, the Freelancer 7780.
On the brand’s customised motorbike, the name Raymond Weil adorns the fuel tank and is depicted in rose gold foil. This provided the inspiration for the texture of the 43.5mm bronze case and the two counters gracing the dial. Likewise, the motorbike’s gradient effect paint influenced the watch’s black smoked dial. This latter detail confers an interesting display with light tones at the centre of the dial that assume a darker shade near the edge.
The tachymeter and pulsometer scales engraved on the motorcycle tank cap are replicated on the watch’s satin-finished ceramic bezel insert and flange, respectively. Even the freelancer’s rich brown calf leather strap has been inspired by the motorbike’s leather-clad seat.
The symmetrical bi-compax layout features a 30-minute chronograph counter and a small seconds display. The golden hour and minute hands are generously proportioned and, in conjunction with the applied indexes, prove highly legible. The hour track is snailed, while the hands and indexes feature luminescent treatment, augmenting readability in restricted light. The colour of the central chronograph seconds hand, the hand on the 30-minute register and the numerals on the pulsometer scale are all presented in the same shade.
A date display is positioned at 6 o’clock, once again contributing to the overall symmetry of the dial. The date disc is presented in black, matching the colour of the dial, a detail much appreciated by purists.
This model encompasses a number of exquisite refinements. The tachymeter scale, presented on the bezel, provides the means to determine the speed of a motorbike, or vehicle of your choice, over a known distance. Residing on a bronze-toned flange, a pulsometer scale allows the wearer to determine the heart rate of an individual. A notable characteristic of this dial is that it wonderfully plays with shades, depths and textures, contributing to the watch’s sophisticated appearance.
With time, the bronze will mature and form a patina, heightening the overall sense of elegance. To the rear of the watch, the case back is presented in stainless steel. The movement, the Calibre RW5030, is visible via the exhibition caseback. Once again, the attention to detail is clear to see. For example, the watch is fitted with a W-shaped skeleton oscillating weight, a reference to the founder’s surname. A further attribute of this automatic movement is that, assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for 56 hours.
The Raymond Weil freelancer Bronze Chronograph 7780 is available in two variants, one with orange accents, limited to just 300 pieces, and the other with blue accents.

PERFECT PAIR
Two new Portugieser models arrive with a standout colour palette to enjoy.
IWC Schaffhausen have introduced new versions of the Portugieser Automatic and Chronograph, two of the most popular models in the brand’s Portugieser collection. Both watches feature stainless steel cases, contrasting white and blue dials with the characteristic railwaytrack style chapter ring, blue Arabic numerals, and blued feuille hands.
A design with a marked contrast between the dial and the subdials, often affectionately referred to as “panda dial” by watch enthusiasts, has frequently featured in IWC’s Portugieser collection. The combination of the two colours improves legibility and makes for a very distinctive appearance. This summer, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer presents two of its most iconic Portugieser models in a unified design code with contrasting white and blue dials. The white dials boast a polished lacquer finish, while the deep blue sub dials feature an “azurage” finish. Such nautical colours not only lend these classic models a fresh and contemporary look: they are also a reminder of the origins of the Portugieser, whose iconic design was initially inspired by marine deck observation watches.
The Portugieser Automatic features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 42.3 millimetres, a white and blue dial, and blued feuille hands. The balanced dial layout places the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power reserve display at 3 o’clock.
This timepiece is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52010 calibre. Its automatic Pellaton winding system has been reinforced with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic. It uses even the slightest movements of the rotor in both directions to build up a power reserve of 7 days in two barrels. The movement can be admired through the sapphire glass case back. This timeless and elegant Portugieser is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap with a folding clasp.
The Portugieser Chronograph however features a 41-millimetre case made of stainless steel, a white and blue dial, and blued feuille hands. The chronograph minutes counter is located at 12 o’clock, the small seconds at 6 o’clock. The IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre with automatic winding and a power reserve of 46 hours is at work inside the case. The chronograph movement in a classic column-wheel design is visible through the sapphire glass case back. In addition, this elegant sports watch is fitted with a durable and flexible blue rubber strap, providing excellent wearing comfort during the summer.
The Portugieser Automatic and Portugieser Chronograph are available now through IWC boutiques, authorised retail partners or online at IWC.com. Both models are also eligible for registration under the ‘My IWC’ care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.
CENTRE OF T HE UNIVERSE

Greubel Forsey puts the Earth firmly back at the centre of its universe with the new GMT Balancier Convexe. The new GMT calibre replaces all previous GMT models and features, for the first time, its signature inclined balance wheel, as if in orbit around the Earth. A construction whose aesthetic architecture is matched only by its technical mastery and which confirms Greubel Forsey’s resolutely contemporary approach to Fine Watchmaking.
The perfect titanium sphere with its continents, seas and oceans, is one of the Atelier’s most emblematic creations. It was the centrepiece of the GMT, GMT Earth, GMT Quadruple Tourbillon and GMT Sport, some of Greubel Forsey’s greatest successes to date. Now, a brand new calibre is dedicated to the Terrestrial globe, decisively replacing its predecessors. It is the purest and most contemporary interpretation of the GMT complication ever imagined, deeply rooted in the universe of the brand as well as in Haute Horlogerie.
The Earth is showcased majestically, positioned at the very heart of an amphitheatre-like construction. Flush with the sapphire crystal, almost close enough to the surface to touch, it moves in a constant 24-hour rotation, just as the Earth rotates in real life. This amphitheatre is bordered by three rings which indicate two complementary times: hours and minutes local time, as well as universal time. The 24 time zones displaying universal time are set against a black background if the time indicated is at night, and on a white background during the day time.
Local time is indicated on the two outer rings: one for the hours on a grey satin-finished ring, and minutes on a thin black outer ring. Each time indication has its own hand with a red triangular tip filled with luminescent material. These hands move on two further rings, engraved with key words dear to the Atelier, to display GMT. Finally, an off-centre display at 10 o’clock indicates a second time zone with a blue gold hand.
For the caseback of the timepiece, Greubel Forsey opted to keep the disc with 24 time zones indicating the UTC time of the 24 reference cities, but with a rather appropriate modification: the UTC of Paris has been replaced by the city where Greubel Forsey has been established since its early days: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
The beating heart of the timepiece, appreciated by collectors for its remarkable chronometric performance, is a spectacular sight. Once again, Greubel Forsey stuns with its level fine craftmanship. The 30° inclined balance wheel, seemingly suspended in mid-air, is held by a beautiful flat black polished and barrel polished steel balance wheel bridge on polished steel pillars. To its right, the small seconds, displayed with a blue gold hand completes the ensemble.
The titanium bridges, which serve as the aesthetic backdrop for this horological spectacle, are hand-finished with a steel brush and take on a frosted texture never before applied by Greubel Forsey. The delicate frosted surfaces catch the light and accentuate the globe, which remains the protagonist of the arena.
Finally, the inside of the case is polished so that it mirrors the escapement platform, the Terrestrial globe, and nearly every element visible on the dial side, thus adding incredible depth to this new construction.
Greubel Forsey will only make 66 GMT Balancier Convexe timepieces: 22 per year between 2022 and 2024.
LEGACY MACHINE SPLIT ESCAPEMENT EVO

Following the LM Perpetual EVO, the LM Sequential EVO, and the LM Split Escapement EVO (first introduced as a limited edition for the United Arab Emirates’ 50th anniversary), MB&F has now introduced two new EVO editions, growing the EVO into a collection in its own right.
Like all good stories, it is worth starting at the very beginning. The idea behind the LM Split Escapement started life in 2015 with the LM Perpetual. Designed and conceived by Northern Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, there were two criteria for the perpetual calendar: make it fool-proof; and display MB&F’s signature flying balance wheel in the centre of the dial. McDonnell was soon to realise that there was a problem: there was nowhere to put the escapement. The concept had worked with previous Legacy Machines, where the balance wheel was on the front of the watch along with the escapement, but with the perpetual calendar display of the more complex LM Perpetual, there was simply no room for both.
A man of solutions, McDonnell had the ingenious idea of creating the world’s longest balance staff that would traverse the entire movement, leaving the large balance wheel on its own, on the front of the watch, and moving the remaining parts of the escapement - anchor and escape wheel - to the opposite side of the movement, almost 12mm below; hence the name ‘Split Escapement’.
When the LM Perpetual was unveiled, there were so many innovations to talk about that the split escapement went largely unnoticed. So, in 2017, MB&F decided to create the LM Split Escapement to highlight McDonnell’s genius idea. The manual-winding, 298-component movement is driven by double barrels providing 72 hours of power reserve, and features a user-friendly, foolproof rapid date-changing system that prevents the user from inadvertently damaging the movement when adjusting the date.
The first editions of the LM Split Escapement were presented in MB&F’s classic Legacy Machine case - but the collection now also features the EVO case, conceived for a more active lifestyle.
This new case design first came to life in 2020 in the form of the LM Perpetual EVO; it features 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap and a bezel-free design. But the EVO concept goes deeper; inside the case, the movement is suspended thanks to a world-premiere, monobloc shock-absorbing “FlexRing” system, dampening the kind of vertical and horizontal shocks that come with real-life adventures.
In addition to the EVO case, the U.A.E. Golden Jubilee edition featured a change that radically modified the design of the LM Split Escapement: the entire mechanism was rotated clockwise by 30 degrees, with the crown at 4:30 instead of 2 o’clock - completely changing the symmetry of the watch, giving it a totally new character.
Now there is not one, but two new LM SE EVO editions. The first comes in grade 5 titanium with an icy blue base plate and slate grey dial and opened counters that will make you shiver, in a good way. Another feature being the special darkened treatment on the movement side, creating heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels and the rose gold details - symbolically echoing the contrast between the active, contemporary nature of the EVO collection and the traditional finishing of the movement. MB&F is one of only a handful of artisanal brands that continue to finish components painstakingly by hand, making the view of the movement as mesmerizing as the dial.
The second edition is the first of a series of limited editions that will be reserved exclusively for the MB&F LABs - a new retail format building on the success of MB&F’s M.A.D.Galleries, combining MB&F timepieces with a limited number of art pieces, but adapted to spaces not quite large enough to host a full-fledged M.A.D.Gallery. This year should see the opening of MB&F LABs in Paris, Singapore and Beverly Hills - with this edition having been designed exclusively for the one on Los Angeles’ Rodeo Drive.
Signature Scents The stunning Signatures of the Sun collection welcomes a new fragrance and home fragrance line.


Precious notes diffuse into splendid new atmospheres to be experienced and discovered thanks to the indulgent new line from Acqua di Parma. The Maison's Signatures of the Sun fragrance collection now welcomes a new way to enjoy the carefully selected ingredients taken from all over the world, interpreting them through the luminous prism that is Acqua di Parma in your home.
A collection that expresses the sublime art of perfumery, which includes the Home Fragrance Collection, enhancing the variety of new candles and diffusers that release the notes of four of the most popular fragrances in the collection: Yuzu, sunny and brilliant, Osmanthus, radiant and sensual, Oud, magnetic and enveloping, Quercia, strong and charismatic. Different olfactory epiphanies that give the sensation of discovering a well-known ingredient as if for first time can now permeate every corner of your home.
Yuzu, a rare oriental citrus fruit, fuses its fresh and bittersweet notes with a spiced hint of Szechuan pepper, soft floral accents, and the freshness of the violet plant. An ideal fragrance to welcome guests and friends on summer nights into the radiant atmosphere that is your living room or terrace. It’s like opening the windows on a sunny day and letting that burst of dynamic and vibrant light flood your home.
Osmanthus has an extraordinary olfactory power. It is the flower of joy, small and delicate, it diffuses its inebriating and voluptuous notes to the sensual ones of the peony, to the hints of ambrette, and the enveloping patchouli, giving the sensation of being surrounded by an atmosphere of floral well-being.
Quercia. A generous fragrance that gives sensations of freshness and light, like when the sun filters through the branches of a majestic oak forest. The notes of oak musk, crossed with vivacious pink pepper which is illuminated by the union of lemon and bergamot, diffuses gently throughout your home.
The infinite nuances of the precious Oud oil unexpectedly intertwine with Russian coriander, bergamot and Amyris wood from Haiti, creating a warm welcome for your guests. A continuous olfactory discovery, an atmosphere that slowly reveals its magnetic splendour. These four distinct fragrances provide the perfect palette to fill you home with welcoming, comforting and inviting scents throughout the year and for any occasion. Yuzu, Osmanthus, Quercia and Oud are all sold in a 200g glass candle version with natural white wax, but also as a 180ml fragrance diffuser, complete with black reed sticks for a luxurious finish that won't look out of place on any surface. The colour codes of the collection characterise the iconic Art Deco design in shiny black lacquered glass, embellished by a black velvet label, that is soft to the touch, with golden lettering. acquadiparma.com