Zeitwerk

A. Lange & Söhne have unveiled two new versions of the award-winning mechanical digital watch in platinum and pink gold. Thanks to the evolved calibre L043.6, the exceptional timepiece now has a power reserve doubled to 72 hours and offers even greater convenience. The revolutionary design concept has been subtly reworked as well, enhancing its expressive style. Even though the minute-by-minute progression of the large jumping numerals may seem to be moved by magic, it is precisely controlled by a reliable calibre with seven patents.

In 2009, A. Lange & Söhne presented the first Zeitwerk to the amazement of the world of horology. The unprecedented wristwatch concept features large jumping numerals for the hours and minutes as well as a constant-force escapement as a beat controller. To this very date, the clear, avant-garde display of time is peerless. It underscores the manufactory’s ambition to constantly redefine the limits of technical feasibility.

This innovative approach is closely intertwined with the tradition of the manufactory. Inspiration was taken from the famous five-minute clock at the Semper Opera House in Dresden. At the time, court clockmaker Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes was commissioned to create it. He was asked to develop a time display that would be easily legible even from the rearmost seats. It was a challenge that forced Gutkaes to rethink the assignment. Contrary to all largeformat clocks with hands, he opted for a revolutionary solution: a clock that displayed the time digitally in five-minute steps. In 1841, he completed the five-minute clock with his co-worker Ferdinand Adolph Lange. The unusual idea behind this clock was transposed to the Zeitwerk, even though it switches five times more often than its source of inspiration, namely once per full minute.

A patented mechanism with three jumping numerals discs - that make a glance at the watch a special experience - display the hours and minutes from left to right by large-format numerals. The harmonious arrangement on the curved time bridge and the size of the displays ensure superb legibility. Additionally, this aesthetically original and technically elaborate display endows the dial with vibrancy and verve because the underlying mechanism switches the three numerals discs within fractions of a second. The most exciting event happens at the top of the hour when all three numerals discs are simultaneously advanced by one increment. With this precise choreography, the moment becomes the event.

Watch enthusiasts often refer to the dial as the face of a timepiece. It not only reflects the designers’ aesthetic perceptions but also the skills of the movement engineers. This applies in particular to the Zeitwerk: Its innovative technical concept is expressed by progressive design.

The technical knowledge and precise skill required to create such a piece is undeniable. From the most basic of actions - rotating one of the jumping numerals discs, which requires an exceptional amount of energy compared to ‘standard’ watch mechanisms - to the patented barrel design which has made it possible to double the power reserve allowing for 72 jumps of all three discs, the precision craftsmanship that has gone into these two new Zeitwerk pieces is truly astonishing.

The new Zeitwerk has a case diameter of 41.9 millimetres and a height of 12.2 millimetres. The two versions; in pink gold with a black dial and a time bridge made of untreated German silver; and platinum edition with a rhodié dial made of solid silver and black rhodiumed time bridge feature colourmatched hands to round out the harmonious design. The pink-gold model has a black alligator leather strap while the platinum version is paired with a dark-brown alligator leather strap.

BIG BANG

UNICO ESSENTIAL GREY

A first: this watch limited to 200 pieces is exclusively available online on the e-commerce platform hublot.com. The new chic, technical and exclusive Big Bang Unico Essential Grey is a stunning cocktail designed by Hublot.

Rarely have the iconic lines of the Big Bang looked so striking. Thanks to its perfectly monochrome and satin finished look, the new Big Bang Unico Essential Grey magnifies the unmistakable design of the original model. The iconic case, whose satin finish extends to the bezel, hands and dial is enveloped in titanium. Thanks to the lightness of this metal, the watch is particularly comfortable to wear.

The heart of the Big Bang Unico Essential Grey beats to the rhythm of the manufacture HUB1280 calibre a column wheel chronograph movement with a 72 hour power reserve. With a diameter of 42mm and a case thickness of 14.5mm, it is suited to both men and women. A unisex watch whose style is enhanced by the versatility of the two straps supplied in the Big Bang Unico Essential Grey presentation box. The first is a grey lined rubber strap and the second comes with a Velcro fastening - a Swiss invention. Both are easily interchangeable thanks to Hublot’s patented One Click system.

Just 200 pieces of the Big Bang Unico Essential Grey, instantly recognisable by its monochrome metal grey appearance, will be produced. This limited edition is only available online at hublot. com and will not be offered in stores. A future collector’s item to be sure.

BELL & ROSS BR-X5

Bell & Ross often finds itself at the cutting-edge of innovative watch design, with its impressive range of aviation and aeronautically inspired timepieces pairing action-ready wearability with engaging aestheticism. In Bell & Ross’ latest timepiece, the French/Swiss brand once more finds itself at the forefront of novel creation, pairing exceptional design with manufacture movement, and unveiling the new BR-X5.

Since its debut in 2019, the BR 05 collection has served as the jewel of strength in the French maison’s catalogue, embodying urban focused design in a unique and distinctly geometric fashion. In the BR-X5, Bell & Ross elevates the original integrated silhouette to its pinnacle, drawing from the strong DNA of the brand and presenting a new, sleek design that pairs sportiness with serious intrigue, all while being powered by a manufacture movement manufactured by Kenissi.

Measuring 41mm in diameter with an approachable thickness of 12.8mm, the exceptional case of the BR-X5 is at once familiar while simultaneously evolved and elevated, pushing the edge of creativity forward.

Featuring a sandwich type construction, the timepiece’s precise facets and highly considered cuts touch a chord of the avantgarde, highlighting senses of streamlined lightness and industrial resistance.

A bold sense of daring permeates through the aesthetic, with Bell & Ross’ design team making clear their propensity for originative watchmaking once more.

At a glance, the multi-layer construction of the BR-X5 is discreet when viewed from the front, but comes into its own when seen from the side. The hollowed-out architecture of the case middle is captivating, revealing a technical construction that optimizes lightness without compromising on utility or water resistance. The different polished, satin-brushed and micro-blasted finishes throughout the case highlight the lines and surfaces of the design, and ensure the successful completion of this watchmaking puzzle.

In its construction, the case of the BR-X5 begins with a steel core, the central component machined from the same block of metal as the watch’s crown guards and in-effect ensuring the superior protection of the timepiece and its movement. Flanking the core are the watch’s square bezel, highlighted via a rubber ring, and its caseback, both fixed to the two steel plates that form the top and bottom of the case. The novel assembly is kept watertight to 100m by four screws that pass through the thickness of the case via four columns, each of which reinforce the solidity of the construction while providing a signature look.

While forward looking in its sophistication, the modern watch remains in-line with the familiar attitudes which have helped define

Bell & Ross, being perfectly balanced in its elevation by its versatility. Throughout the design a sense of sportiness and practical reliability carry through, these sentiments provided by both its steel construction and as well as integrated design between the case and matching steel bracelet or openworked rubber strap.

Like the case housing it, the dial of the BR-X5 is the product of smart design work, with its style marking a highly refined expression of the original urban instrument shape. Available in two colorways - black and ice blue - each option represents two sides of the brand’s appeal. In the suave black, classic and timeless noir are channeled with bright, sharp accents of red highlighting the look. While in the ice blue, the tasteful spirit of sport and play which has defined the urban BR 05 is on full view.

Towards the 3 o’clock position, a date window evoking the aeronautical DNA of Bell & Ross is featured, channeling the influence of analog flight instruments into this contemporarily oriented timepiece. While on the opposite side of the display a stepped power reserve indicator is at work, with its 3-day scale hinting at the impressive mechanism powering the watch from within.

Driving the BR-X5 is one of the most significant calibers in the Bell & Ross’ storied history: the Calibre BR-CAL.323. Developed in partnership between the French brand and the esteemed mechanical manufacture Kenissi, the mechanism resulted from several years of design, development, and fine-tuning, and features an exclusive configuration in compliance with the specifications defined by Bell & Ross. The automatic movement importantly represents a new era in mechanical thinking within the brand’s catalogue and a continued expression of Bell & Ross’ cutting-edge work.

The Calibre BR-CAL.323 importantly possesses an about 70hour power reserve while running a smooth frequency of 28,800 alt/h. Incredibly dependable in its power reserve, the 28-jewel movement is furthermore incredibly precise in its timekeeping inpart thanks to a variable-inertia balance wheel, with it maintaining a chronometer-grade spec via a COSC certification. The movement is also equipped with a rapid date correction device, which seamlessly allows for a quick date adjustment without any effect on running timekeeping.

Showcasing the extreme reliability of the movement over time, the BR-X5 comes supported with a 5 year warranty, impressively exceeding the previous standard warranty of 2 years for Bell & Ross’ timepieces.

PINK GOLD & BLUE OVERSEAS CHRONOGRAPH

Continuing to add to the luxurious releases already made this year, Vacheron Constantin have taken a simpler route for this latest piece. A recolour for their Overseas Chronograph brings a unique and exclusive pink gold and blue version available exclusively at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Elegant yet casual, this 18K 5N pink gold watch offers a more exclusive finish than its steel counterparts with its purer, lighter finish than rose gold. Inside sits a column-wheel chronograph enhanced by a date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. Its sapphire crystal openworked caseback reveals an oscillating weight in 22K gold featuring decoration inspired by the wind rose, a tribute to the spirit of travel.

Finishing the piece - with its clasp and system of three easily interchangeable straps - the watch can be personalized according to the owner’s wishes. Firstly, a matching 18K 5N pink gold bracelet, which, through its links subtly reveals the Maltese cross - a Vacheron Constantin icon - followed by two blue strap options in alligator calfskin and rubber with intricate textured detailing.

SUPER CHRONOMAT

ORIGINS

On a mission to make luxury more sustainable, Breitling’s first-ever “traceable watch” transparently informs and engages owners about the origins of its precious materials. A provenance record on the owner’s blockchain-backed NFT details the responsible measures taken along the supply chain for the watch’s artisanal gold and lab-grown diamonds, with all information independently verified.

The Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins is designed to make a statement, whether paired with a power suit or a t-shirt and jeans. You can tell a “Super” from the rest of the Chronomat family by the ceramic rider tabs and crown, and the rubber rouleaux bracelet only available with this supercharged line. But aside from its enhanced presence, this new watch has another important statement to make. It’s the beginning of Breitling’s mission to do better.

By 2025, Breitling’s entire product portfolio will feature better gold and better diamonds: artisanal gold and lab-grown diamonds, responsibly sourced from accredited suppliers. To be fully accountable to its mission, Breitling is also introducing end-to-end traceability. Until now, there have been limits on how far you could trace precious materials. Even when following industry best practices, tracking gold and the small “melee” diamonds used in watchmaking to their origins had been nearly impossible. By default, these raw materials tend to be combined from many different sources - meaning their provenance literally gets lost in the mix.

The better gold and better diamonds used in Super Chronomat Origins enable the brand to know that its precious materials are free from association with conflict or human rights abuses. Breitling is also able to assess the social and environmental impact all along the supply chain and give back directly to the communities involved.

For more information on Swiss Better Gold Association, SCS-007 Sustainability Rated Diamonds standard and Super Chronomat Origins source map, please visit swissbettergoldassociation.ch, sustainabilityrateddiamonds.com and, breitling-open.sourcemap.com respectively.