Time From Deutschland

Flyboy Royal British Legion Founder’s Chronograph

After the success of the Royal British Legion release in May 2021, AVI-8 has announced the launch of two new timepieces, the Flyboy Royal British Legion Founder’s Chronograph Limited Edition and the Flyboy Royal British Legion Chairman’s Meca-Quartz Limited Edition, produced to support and commemorate this important charity in their centennial year.

With 1,000 units produced for each of the new models, every timepiece sold will help the RBL continue their vital work supporting those who serve and have served in the British Armed Forces and their families. The two new timepieces have been inspired by the charity’s first Chairman, Sir Thomas Frederick Lister, and the first President, Field Marshall Earl Haig.

The Royal British Legion was formed by Lister and Haig in the aftermath of the First World War to fight for the rights of those who had given so much and come back to so little. Today, the charity continues to stand with the Armed Forces community and challenge injustices to ensure all those who have served and sacrificed on our behalf get the fair treatment and recognition they deserve.

Every timepiece is presented with an exclusive RBL 2021 dated poppy lapel pin. Since it was first worn as an act of Remembrance just over 100 years ago, the poppy has become an enduring symbol of support for our Armed Forces, past and present.

Offering legibility and a balanced aesthetic, the Founder’s Limited Edition is a true bicompax chronograph fused with vintage elements, such as cathedral style hands and a telemeter on the chapter ring. Completing the dial is a striking red poppy on the chronograph seconds hand as a symbol of Remembrance.

At 40mm in diameter, the case is perfectly sized and proportioned. An “onion” style crown draws from trench watches in the early 20th century and became a quintessential feature later used in the first pilot watches. Topping the crown is a beautiful red two petal poppy encased in epoxy.

The Founder’s edition features a dependable Japanese meca-quartz chronograph movement that blends the best of both worlds - quartz accuracy and the crisp hand feel of a mechanical movement. A vintage inspired supple handstitched genuine leather strap ensures a comfortable and snug fit.

Flyboy Royal British Legion Founder’s Chronograph Limited Edition £225.00. £15 from the sale will be paid to Royal British Legion Trading Limited which gives its taxable profits to The Royal British Legion | avi-8.co.uk/royalbritishlegion

SEA INSPIRED CLUB SPORT

The colour of the ocean, and built for it, Nomos Glashütte present a new version of the patented neomatik watch along with a new bracelet.

Club, the sportiest family of the German manufacture’s watches has expanded and is now even more impressive. A new version of Club Sport neomatik 42 date - now with a galvanized dial in blue and rich sunburst finish. This is a watch which perfectly balances strength and proportion and of course boasts a precision movement built in-house.

What makes this newcomer special, besides its sunburst finish dial and elegant, strong colour, is a new stainless steel bracelet. It has been custom-made for this watch. The sporty linked bracelet with folding safety clasp sits snug against the case with the bracelet and watch appearing inseparable, becoming one.

The white hands glow blue in the dark and like its sister model in black, the watch has a diameter of 42mm and is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. This makes it suited for all sports, including those in and under water. A signal-red ring around the stem of the crown alerts the wearer, before contact with the water, if the crown is not screwed tight.

The movement is the well-known and patented DUW 6101 date caliber from the Nomos Glashütte neomatik series. It features a bidirectional, rapidly adjustable date with a super-small timeframe during which the date cannot be set, and an extremely efficient bidirectional winding rotor. The movement’s slender design (3.6 millimeters high) made a particularly robust case possible, meaning whatever the wearer does, the movement is well-protected.

nomos-glashuette.com

ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “LUMEN”

The revolutionary technology and design concept of the Zeitwerk model series has been unique since 2009. Developed exclusively for A. Lange & Söhne timepieces, this new version introduces Lange’s proprietary honey gold while the designation “Lumen” refers to the specially developed, semi-transparent dial that makes the luminous jumping numerals display fully visible. The combination of these unique features makes each of the 200 watches in this limited edition a timepiece that is unique in three ways.

With its three-disc jumping numerals mechanism that indicates the time in a digital format, the Zeitwerk has ranked among the most progressive mechanical wristwatches since 2009. In the interest of superb legibility at all times, the product developers at A. Lange & Söhne questioned everything except the mechanical paradigm. In addition to two discs for the tens and units-minutes, the jumping numerals mechanism is endowed with a large hour ring that spans almost the entire diameter of the movement. All numerals are identical in size. They switch precisely and read from left to right.

Two mainspring barrels deliver the power needed for switching. The switching point is controlled by a patented constant-force escapement. It also assures that the balance is always driven with constant power. Refined from the bottom up, the Zeitwerk calibre L043.9 has twice the power reserve of its predecessor model - 72 hours. The pusher at 4 o’clock is new - allowing the hour indication to be switched separately, which in turn makes it simpler to set the time. The switching impulse is generated when it is released. The advantage is that switching is always uniformly executed, regardless of how gently or vigorously the pusher is actuated.

The pioneering technical concept is paired with an equally innovative design. One of its most prominent elements is the curved time bridge that dominates the dial. It is part of the movement and forms an elegant frame for all time indications. In the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen“, it consists of black rhodiumed German silver and thus integrates well with the dark sapphire crystal dial.

The light-permeable coating of the dial allows the luminous numerals that are not exposed in the aperture to absorb enough UV light and thus light energy needed to make them glow in the dark. Consequently, the digital display remains visible even right after each switching sequence. At night, the numerals discs that are only vaguely discernible during the day cause the watch to glow.

Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” continues the tradition that began eleven years ago and transcends it. The case, with a diameter of 41.9 millimetres, is made of Lange’s proprietary honey gold - a first for a “Lumen” model. Various admixtures and a special thermal treatment endow the 18-carat gold alloy with extra hardness and an inimitably warm lustre. The hands of the powerreserve indicator and of the subsidiary seconds as well as the Lange prong buckle are made of the same material. Combined with a dark dial and a darkbrown leather strap, the hue is an eye-catcher.

UR-112

AGGREGAT

The UR-112 Aggregat is the latest addition to Urwerk’s Special Project collection, a laboratory offering horological freedom where follies are encouraged. Co-founders Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker, and Martin Frei, artistic director and designer, started this new adventure from a blank page, and a sketchbook overflowing with ideas.

The UR-112 Aggregat was inspired by a dream of a new mechanical challenge where technicality has the centre stage. The beauty of this timepiece lies in the complexity of its gears and near-manic assembly precision heralding the genesis of a watchmaking tour de force.

Aggregat is a compendium of 25.5 grams of distilled technique, offering fully digital time displays, from hours down to seconds. A double or nothing challenge for the watchmaker who is betting with microns.

Starting with the hour and the minutes, each are displayed on triangular prisms operating under transparent cylinders, which appear as levitating mechanisms to be admired through the crystal.

On the left, the digital hour display. Each of the 12 numerals is engraved then filled with Super-LumiNova. The transcription of time takes the form of a sign display switching sharply to a chronometric rhythm.

On the right, the same system displays the minutes although freed from the strain of the singular, they instead jump in 5-minute increments. The operation of the jumping hours display is driven by the advance of the minutes. At the 60th minute, the force accumulated during those last 3600 seconds is released to change the time to the next hour.

But the primary source of all this power is rooted in the basic movement opposite this Dantesque construction. A long, thin rod connects the body and head of the UR-112. This is the cardan shaft, a central part of vital importance to this mechanism. A complex set of cogs, a succession of gears, allows this axis to transmit all the energy required. And this despite a 90° turnaround. This transmission shaft with double gearing - one at each end - is perpendicular to the horizonal time indication.

The movement of the UR-112 nestles inside a hunter case with a hinged titanium protective cover. Pressing the pushers on either side of the case unlocks the cover and it springs up, revealing an elaborate display of digital seconds. Etched on tiny silicon wafer disks, tiny numerals parade under a magnifying lens beside the only analogue display of the UR-112, a 48-hour power-reserve indicator.

® CERATANIUM

IWC Schaffhausen has added two Ceratanium® models to its Top Gun Pilot’s Watch range. Engineered in Schaffhausen, this innovative new material combines the structural integrity of titanium with a scratch-resistance similar to that of ceramic and features a stunning matte black colour. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium is the first watch from the manufacture with a Ceratanium® bracelet, which is lighter than steel and very comfortable to wear. The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium is the first in the range with a Timezoner® complication, allowing the wearer to change between different time zones effortlessly. Both novelties are powered by IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families.

Advanced performance materials such as ceramics, titanium and Ceratanium® are a signature feature of the Top Gun pilot’s watches. They take their name from the legendary Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, a rigorous course used by the US Navy to train its elite pilots in flying and tactical skills. The watches are engineered to deliver ultimate performance and can withstand even the extreme strain pilots experience in the cockpit of a supersonic jet.

After pioneering the use of ceramics and titanium for wristwatches during the 1980s, IWC’s material engineers have now succeeded in combining the unique strengths of these two in a single, ground-breaking material. In addition, Ceratanium® is also skin-friendly and highly resistant to corrosion.

The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium can be set to a different time zone by simply pressing down and rotating the bezel. The hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date will move forwards or backwards in one-hour steps. This also works across the dateline and without losing a single second. The case is made of Ceratanium®, while the city ring is manufactured from ceramic. It contains the names of 24 cities, each one representing one of the international time zones. The numerals are printed in gray on the dial, while the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are coated with a luminescent material. The jet-black tactical design is complemented with a tinted sapphire glass case back and a black rubber strap with textile inlay. The IWC-manufactured 82760 calibre uses a Pellaton winding system reinforced with ceramic components to build up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring. The annual production of the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium will be limited to 500 pieces.

The Pininfarina name is characterized by its rich history in design excellence and craftsmanship, creating automotive artwork for more than 90 years. Bovet echoes this ethos in horology, with generations of artisans over its almost 200 years of history shaping incredible, meticulously detailed timepiece artistry.

This mutual expertise was apparent from the very beginning of Bovet and Automobili Pininfarina’s partnership in creating the Battista Tourbillon timepiece alongside the Battista hyper GT, when Bovet owner Mr. Pascal Raffy and the Automobili Pininfarina Design Team met for the first time in Cambiano, Italy. The unique skills of both houses led to the creation of a one-of-a-kind timepiece that simply could not have been be realized without the shared development process between the craftsmen at Bovet 1822 and the design team at Automobili Pininfarina. The completely in-house development and manufacturing of this handmade masterpiece of horology, constructed by the world’s most skilled precision artisans, offers the freedom to create highly bespoke parts and decorations with utmost precision, while assuring that the highest quality standards can be met.

The creation of a client’s Battista is a process of virtually unlimited personalization, with more than 128 million combinations for the interior colour and materials alone, ensuring the only limits are the dreams of the client. Because of the expertise between the two houses, this can be taken a step further, giving clients the possibility to express their own personalities and that of their bespoke Battista through the Battista Tourbillon as well.

With a focus on lightness and purity, the timepiece extends Battista’s design philosophy and brings it to another dimension. Detailing inspired by Battista’s most characteristic design features can be found in every part of the timepiece, including the movement’s mechanical components. The exquisite craftsmanship of Bovet made it possible to design remarkable details that only the most skilled artisans can

Battista Battistamanufacture by hand. Box sapphire crystals on both sides ensure that the inner beauty of this mechanical masterpiece can be enjoyed and admired, opening up the view of the movement visible from all sides. In addition, the sapphire crystals are shaped at 12 and 6 o’clock to integrate the specially-designed Vegan rubber straps. The process of manufacturing a timepiece at this level of complexity and quality is based around the highly skilled artisans from the house of Bovet, who make nearly every component of their timepieces in-house at the production facility in the village of Tramelan, Switzerland. One of Battista’s most recognizable features, the E-Heart represents Automobili Pininfarina’s spirit for constant innovation. It is the physical element that, besides being functional, acts as an icon on Battista and all the following automobiles. Where in Battista the E-Heart indicates the state of charging, in the Battista Tourbillon the E-Heart-shaped aperture of the Big Date on the front, and on the back showing Bovet’s patented differential winding mechanism; the mechanism that makes rewinding the timepiece for a full 10-days of power reserve easier and quicker. This way, the E-Heart doesn’t just find a place in the timepiece for visual reference, it has an actual shared function as well. The Battista Tourbillon truly represents the pinnacle of haute horlogerie. From the exquisite details and finishing of each and every component to the utmost complexity of the movement, the timepiece is a showcase of high watchmaking at its finest. Each element, whether functional or decorative, is designed to represent the shared values of Automobili Pininfarina and Bovet. The construction of the Battista Tourbillon results in a highly three-dimensional appearance, with each part of the movement and its complications clearly visible both from the face of the timepiece as well as through the exhibition case back and the exposed sides. The 45.6-millimeter case consists of two large sapphire crystals, enhancing the lightness and purity of the design.

Frederique Constant’s Fine Watchmaking

The most complex mechanical calendar ever invented - this is the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. Not only does this piece represent what Frederique Constant has done best for nearly 35 years, it is also an all-important example of Fine Watchmaking thanks to its technicality, beauty and precision, not forgetting what has set the manufacture apart from the very beginning - accessibility.

Available in 18 carat rose gold or steel, this piece is bold. It breaks rules that were thought to be set in stone. Frederique Constant proves you can design something truly modern, but enhanced with timehonoured complications. Then produce and assemble them at the Geneva-based manufacture and create the most accessible Quantième Perpétuel Tourbillon Manufacture ever made. In the end, succeeding in uniting what some believed would not be possible and bringing a lively, modern, elegant and accurate timepiece to life.

As with any such high-performance complication, optimum readability is key. Within the 41mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

The day and date are the most useful pieces of information and read every day, therefore being arranged horizontally in this order, so as to be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second.

Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

This subtle composition is powered by the FC-975 calibre. It is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision (an essential characteristic of the tourbillon), Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement - both the escape wheel and the lever. This choice of technology is a real favourite of the Manufacture, providing collectors with a piece that is stable and accurate, unaffected by temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields, including those associated with the digital environment, such as computers, smartphones and tablets.

You can appreciate the inner workings of this exceptional movement from any angle on the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, on the dial side and on the back. Correctors used to set the watch are discreetly tucked away in the caseband.

The two versions are dominated by the colour blue. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève. It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

Although the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is strictly limited to 30 pieces for the rose gold version and 88 for the steel version, collectors can create different looks for their numbered and engraved watches. Each one comes with two straps, which can be swapped around at will, without the need for tools.

The rose gold version comes with a topstitched alligator leather strap, alongside a second rubber strap, reinforcing the urban and contemporary attitude that the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture can take on in seconds.

MIKE HORN EDITION

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE CHRONO FLYBACK

Through single-minded dedication to each of his historic endeavors - from trekking to the North Pole in the unremitting darkness of winter to summiting some of the world’s highest and most challenging peaks without supplemental oxygen - Mike Horn secured a place among the world’s greatest living explorers. Unwavering focus on reaching heights is a trait Panerai shares with the adventurer and environmental activist.

The Submersible Chrono Flyback Mike Horn Edition is a limited edition diving watch available in just 500 pieces, the newest expression of a nearly two decade collaboration with Horn and represents the brand’s flourishing tradition of creating sophisticated tools for modern heroes.

Able to withstand daunting conditions, beginning with a 47mm brushed titanium case that is both lightweight and highly resistant, a hard-wearing black matte ceramic ring within the unidirectional bezel provides a highly legible tool for the measurement of immersion time, while screw-down chronograph pushers deliver a superior degree of water resistance.

Applied indices in white and vivid yellow central chronograph hands punctuate the dark blue dial, a colour combination that recalls a previous model inspired by Horn, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Pole 2 Pole Limited Edition from 2016.

Developed as an indispensable tool for daring explorers on land or sea, this timepiece is powered by the P.9100 movement, the first automatic movement with chronograph functions created by Panerai. The movement features the flyback function, an advanced complication that allows the chronograph to reset and restart with one press of the pusher at eight o’clock, along with a three-day power reserve.

Water-resistant up to 30 bar (about 300 meters), the Submersible Chrono Flyback Mike Horn Edition features two straps: a blue rubber accordion strap and the new UPCamo bi-material strap composed of rubber and a camouflage fabric inspired by Italian Navy uniforms.

With the patented Panerai strap system, switching one strap for another is a simple operation that requires only an included interchangeability tool and screwdriver to remove the trapezoidal pin buckle in brushed titanium. The watches and their accessories are housed in boxes made from recycled plastic, part of an ongoing commitment by Panerai in promoting environmentally responsible practices.