14 minute read

Pilot Precision

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

BIG PILOT’S WATCH CONSTANT-FORCE TOURBILLON EDITION “IWC RACING”

Limited to just 15 pieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing” from IWC Schaffhausen presents a horological masterpiece in a design inspired by the technical world of motorsport. The timepiece features IWC’s patented constant-force mechanism, which transmits even impulses of force to the escapement, ensuring a highly exact rate. The matte black Ceratanium® case and the fully blacked-out 94800 calibre lend this limited-edition Big Pilot’s Watch a unique and futuristic appearance.

The powerful IWC-manufactured engine is one of the most complicated mechanical movements ever designed in Schaffhausen. The patented constant-force mechanism disengages the escapement from the direct flow of power through the wheel train and transmits completely even impulses of energy to the escape wheel. In conjunction with the tourbillon, which compensates for the negative influences of gravity on the oscillating system, this ensures a highly accurate rate. The plates and bridges are fully blackened having undergone an elaborate rhodiumplating process to match the colour of the case and the movement, which is reminiscent of an engine block, can be viewed through the sapphire glass back.

The 46.2-millimetre case, striking conical crown and pin buckle

are all made of Ceratanium®. This IWC-developed material is light and robust like titanium but also similarly hard and scratch-resistant like ceramic. During the first step of the manufacturing process, the components are machined with maximum precision from a proprietary titanium alloy. Afterwards, they are fired at very high temperatures in a kiln. It is during this furnacing process that a phase transformation takes place, and the surface of the material assumes properties similar to those of ceramic. Other characteristics of Ceratanium® are its skinfriendliness and unique matte black finish.

While the constant-force tourbillon at 9 o’clock is the eyecatcher on the dial, the design also features a double moon phase display for the northern and southern hemispheres. White numerals and yellowcoloured accents imitate a dashboard, while the power reserve display at 4 o’clock is reminiscent of a tachometer. The louvred, ring-shaped structure of the outer dial ring takes inspiration from the cold air intakes of a high-performance engine. Even the black rubber strap incorporates a detail from the world of racing. It features an inlay made of Alcantara®*, a synthetic and durable micro-fibre with superb grip, which is often used for the seats and steering wheel covers of performance cars.

HAWKER HUNTER

The now-signature Hawker Hunter Retrograde Chronograph is back with a technical refresh and upgrade. Modern and masculine with a solid steel bracelet and unique camouflage PVD coating, 3 specially curated colour palettes are now available.

Utilising the iconic 45mm 12-sided silhouette, each solid steel case and bracelet has received a complex PVD camouflage treatment that takes up to 10 days to complete. It is a highly technical process. Not only are there several layers of PVD coating applied, but the camouflage pattern itself is done by hand individually.

Although camouflage was first used during WWI, the 3 colourways for this capsule collection have been carefully chosen, drawing inspiration from its use over the years in military aircraft, such as the Hunter.

Night Camo - A blend of greys and black, a colour scheme often used by military aircraft performing covert night-time operations.

Ground Camo - With a mixture of greens and browns, the Ground Camo palette has been historically applied to aircraft expecting to operate in tree-covered areas. Deep and rich forest tones are complemented by a clear and legible dial.

Air Camo - With an aim to blend into the sky, Air Camo paint jobs were vital in disguising an aircraft’s distance and attitude. Deep blue hues are fused with shades of brown to complete this statement piece.

All three timepieces available now priced at £275.00.

DEFY 21 ULTRABLUE

Zenith continues to push the limits of performance and design to the extreme with the latest releases from Watches & Wonders 2021. For the trailblazers who forge their own path, the Defy Extreme - an all-terrain 1/100th of a second chronograph - sets a new standard in rugged precision. The manufacture also continues to express the notion of high-frequency precision through light, colours and motion across the Defy collection with a number of new highly chromatic creations including a Pantone piece and a number of unique colour watches.

Highlighting the concept of high-frequency precision through striking creations, Zenith’s 1/100th of a second chronograph - the Defy 21 - translates high oscillation frequencies into single regions of the visible light spectrum which began with the Defy 21 Ultraviolet in 2020. This piece featured the world’s first violetcoloured chronograph movement, standing out against the entirely muted case in matte microblasted titanium. Now, Zenith applies the same striking effect in cool tones of deep indigo and electric blue in the Defy 21 Ultrablue.

The partially open dial features slightly overlapping closed chronograph counters, finished in a grey tone matching the deep grey of the case with contrasting white markings for legibility. The vividly blue movement is accentuated by the Defy 21’s uniquely avant-garde movement conception and design with open and angular bridges. A white-tipped central 1/100th of a second chronograph hand makes a complete revolution above the dial in one second.

Armin Strom

Pure Resonance Sky Blue

The unique piece for Watches & Wonders offers a differentiated ability to consistently maintain a state of resonance represents nothing less than a redefinition of the practical limits for marine chronometer precision in a wristwatch.

In general, Armin Strom carefully maintains a pared-down approach that keeps the brand’s style of watchmaking focused on its essence. How concentrated that style may be, this special-edition head further in that direction, squarely placing emphasis on the watch’s most remarkable feature: the visible dual balances oscillating in resonance. The special blue dial and the matt hand decorated finish are highlighting the swiss German style of this timepiece.

The dial offers a “Kari Voutilainen hand Guilloché” subdial for time displays - Roman numerals dominate the off-center subdial displaying hours and minutes in white with steel hands, while a classic railroad track marks the exact minutes. The smaller subdial at 7 o’clock displays seconds using only a batonshaped hand and a simple track. The Sky blue coloured hand made Guilloché dial from Kari Voutilainen has a special lack finishing (Email à froid) in order to reinforce the unique look of the dial. The Bridges are decorated with succinct, eyecatching côtes de Genève, applied for the first time in straight lines. It’s absolutely spectacular movement finishing is often overlooked as the hypnotic pulsation of its clutch spring and the synchronized motion of its two balance wheels provide a mesmerizing distraction that invariably captures most of the attention. The reason for this watch’s improved chronometry can be found in the straightforward approach to the movement: the fewer functions a timepiece must perform, the better it can concentrate on accuracy. In other words, with no superfluous functions this watch can focus fully on providing the time in marine chronometer precision. The time displays receive their portioned energy from the lower regulator, while the upper regulator remains in place to create resonance.

“My primary objective was to improve chronometric precision via the consistent maintenance of a resonance state. But that consistency was also a prerequisite to sustain a kinetic spectacle on the dial side of our watch. With a great deal of time and effort, our technical and aesthetic ambitions were both ultimately achieved.” Claude Greisler, Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker

The outward design of the Pure Resonance perfectly reflects the purity of Caliber ARF16. It is housed in a slim 42 mm white gold case with reduced lugs and crown and practically no bezel, though the characteristic lip at 6 o’clock remains - an homage to the ability of Armin Strom to customize any of its watches as well as to founder Armin Strom, who offered this space to clients for personal engraving (and it can still be used for that).

This special edition of the Pure Resonance looks and acts just like a “normal” threehanded watch. And this remains in line with the philosophy of Armin Strom as a brand: just good, proprietary mechanics presented in an impeccably finished and interesting way. The Pure Resonance Sky Blue is limited to 3 pieces.

Premier Timepiece

After nearly two decades of partnership, watchmaker Breitling and luxury automotive manufacturer Bentley Motors are celebrating the launch of the Premier B21 Chronograph

Tourbillon 42 Bentley Limited Edition, produced in an exclusive series of just 25 pieces. “We’re proud of this elegant symbol of our brands’ shared values: quality, performance, and design excellence,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. Back in 2002, Bentley Motors commissioned Breitling to create an on-board clock for its legendary Continental GT. Created in the spirit of stylistic perfection and peerless quality, the exclusive new chronograph also pays homage to Willy Breitling, a passionate Bentley driver whose watches changed the face of timekeeping. Willy Breitling, the grandson of founder, Léon Breitling, patented the chronograph with two independent pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock in 1934. Besides being tech savvy and bold, Willy Breitling understood the desire for elegance and glamour. This led him to design the original Premier wristwatches in the 1940s, Breitling’s first link from purpose to style. As Willy saw it, “When a man puts on his watch, it is the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” Today’s reinterpretation of the Premier lives up to its ancestor’s reputation. Limited to just 25 pieces, the Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 Bentley Limited Edition features a 42mm case in 18k red gold, rectangular chronograph pushers, a gold-brown alligator strap, and a transparent sapphire caseback revealing the magnificent movement with its 22-karat gold oscillating weight. The highlight is the special chronograph tourbillon caliber and cage seen through the distinctive green dial, reminiscent of the British racing green colour associated with other models in the Breitling and Bentley collaboration. Powered by the Manufacture Caliber B21, this COSCcertified tourbillon movement has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Great Explorers

Evoking a time when the world had yet to be discovered, Vacheron Constantin retrace the famous epic journeys of the great 15th century explorers who braved the seas and oceans to discover distant horizons. Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama and Pedro Álvares Cabral’s spirit of adventure is celebrated through a new series of three ten-piece limited editions, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers. Crafted in Grand Feu enamel, each dial depicts selected portions of a 1519 map from the Miller Atlas. These three masterpieces of miniaturisation and expertise are driven by the Manufacture 1120 AT movement. These new models, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, are part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

The spirit of travel, exploration and discovery of arts and cultures is an integral part of Vacheron Constantin’s history. A history rooted in the origins of the Manufacture, in an age when François Constantin did not hesitate to travel the world to open new markets and to fly the banner of the Maison high and wide, wherever possible. This openness to the world still pervades the philosophy of the Manufacture, which symbolically celebrates the spirit of adventure through a new journey - on this occasion a voyage through time - in memory of the great 15th century Portuguese explorers.

With this third opus in the Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers collection, which completes two series presented in 2004 and 2008, Vacheron Constantin ventures into one of history’s most exhilarating chapters. In the wake of models dedicated to Magellan, Zheng Hé, Christopher Columbus and Marco Polo, which proved a great success with collectors, comes the turn of Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama and Pedro Álvares Cabral to be honoured through extraordinary miniature compositions enhanced by talented master artisans. They bear witness to the noble touch and impressive creativity of the enamellers whose mastery of Grand Feu enamel once again broadens the horizons of the Métiers d’Art collection. A rare skill extending an invitation to travel while firing the imagination.

These extraordinarily precise compositions are framed by a slim 18K 4N pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter. In order to provide abundant expressive scope for the enameller, these models beat to the rhythm of the 1120 AT self-winding movement, driving an off-centre time display thanks to a satellite hours module.

A Force of Femininity

Delivering sleek, elegant style while not compromising on quality and performance, these head-turning, feminine timepieces will make sure you get noticed once socialising fully returns.

The Limelight Gala Mother-of-Pearl Palace timepiece is housed in a 26 mm 18K rose gold case adorned with the finest quality diamonds and features a mother-of-pearl dial that has been delicately engraved with the same Palace Decor motifs. As the engraving is done by hand, each dial is unique. This Limelight Gala model is limited to 300 pieces and comes on a white alligator strap.

piaget.com

Doubly inspired by the world of Haute Couture and the aesthetic codes derived from Vacheron Constantin’s heritage, the Égérie collection reveals a new facet of its personality. Both classic and daring, it is enhanced by two Égérie self-winding diamond-pavé models. Crafted in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold and entirely set with 303 diamonds on the 35mm-diameter case and 574 diamonds on the dial, these new interpretations are an invitation to enjoy a variety of pleasures thanks to their toolfree interchangeable strap system. Delivered with two straps - in satin and alligator leather - they embrace the feminine wrist with precious elegance and accompany every moment to the rhythm of calibre 1088, a self-winding Manufacture-made movement.

The miniaturised Faubourg model presented by Hermès in 2014 has inspired the quintessential design of the Faubourg Polka: a mother-of-pearl dial framed by a dainty round case. Its entirely redesigned bracelet consists of interwoven dots and oblique lines, as if its curves were going off on a tangent, as if its lines were wary of excessive straightness. It thus sets the pace of time with a sense of total freedom as its lines and dots invent a new language, whose punctuation and grammar tell the tale of a far-sighted present.

Embodying a subtle blend of watchmaking and Haute Joaillerie, the Faubourg Polka watch calls upon the patiently acquired skills of the artisans who craft it. Available in five versions - white or rose gold, gemset or entirely paved with diamonds, this jewellery watch draws in equal measure on fine craftsmanship and abstract art.

hermes.com

Challenging rules and conventions, exploring new and unknown territory through a highly distinctive and surprisingly innovative model, the Panerai Piccolo Due Madreperla is tinged with a charge of unexpected femininity. The aesthetic is unprecedented by Panerai, enhanced by iridescent mother-of-pearl, a lustrous material that endows each watch with a unique character. It proves an elegant complement to the pink gold colour hands, applied numerals and date window that gleam with warm radiance, and reflects the light shed by numerals and indices filled by white SuperLumiNovaTM with green luminescence.

An accompanying red shiny alligator strap is a novel, sophisticated accessory with universal appeal, and a large palette of alternative straps in a multitude of colours, textures, materials and stitches, available in boutiques or on request, transforms Panerai Piccolo Due Madreperla to suit any occasion. With a 38 mm diameter, the smallest ever adopted by Panerai, the model is a marker of elegance thanks to the rich contribution conferred by GoldtechTM. A precious box made of pear wood accompanies the model, a modern treasure chest for a forward-looking timepiece.

panerai.com

Available in three distinctive versions, the Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea Capsule Collection is the spirited sister of Breitling’s latest Chronomat for Women. This elegantly modern, retroinspired watch is for ladies looking to stand out from the crowd. It symbolizes competence and effortless style with a breezy twist.

The timepieces in the new Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea Capsule Collection feature special lacquered dials in beige, midnight blue, and mint green, as well as matching alligator straps with folding clasps. Especially striking are the golden indexes and hands, not to mention the diamond-set hour markers and cocktail-hued gem-set bezels.

On the technical side, these Swiss-made beauties are powered by the Breitling Caliber 10, a COSC-certified chronometer that offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

breitling.com

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