Into The Blue

Fine watchmaking meets uncompromised functionality in this stunning selection of diving watches inspired by the big blue

Fifty Fathoms

Blancpain’s latest edition of the Fifty Fathoms - the Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours model

The Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours diver’s watch epitomises the encounter between horological complexity and high performance. Its flying tourbillon whirls inside a dedicated opening in the refined blue dial. This model comes in a surprisingly light titanium version, as well as a red gold version ensuring a striking presence on the wrist.

Introduced in 2007 with the launch of the contemporary Fifty Fathoms collection, the Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours is a symbiosis of Blancpain’s savoir faire in the realm of diver’s watches and its expertise in horological complications. Tried and tested for more than a decade, it has established itself as a superlative timepiece, enabling the beauty of the tourbillon mechanism to be admired even at great depths.

The two new versions of this prestigious diver’s watch showcase this sophisticated complication through a refined blue dial graced with a sunburst finish. The tourbillon, referred to as “flying” because it has no upper bridge to drive its cage, appears to be floating in a large round opening at 12 o’clock. The technical complexity of this watch construction contrasts with the sporty style of the hourmarkers, hands and bezel. The latter remains a key element of the watch, with its notched edge giving added grip, its unidirectional rotation system and its slightly domed scratchresistant sapphire insert.

The 45 mm-diameter case of this new Fifty Fathoms is available in two materials: grade 23 titanium and red gold, both satin-finished. A bold choice for a highly complicated watch, titanium is notable for its lightness - ensuring excellent wearer comfort - as well as its resistance to shocks, pressure and corrosion. Red gold offers a more conventional setting for the tourbillon and radiates an aura of timeless nobility. Water-resistant to 30 bar (approximately 300 metres), the Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours houses self-winding Calibre 25C, a movement finished with a Côtes de Genève motif and circular graining in the noblest watchmaking tradition. Its gold oscillating weight is satin-brushed and openworked to provide the most open possible view of the movement. The titanium timepiece is available with a blue NATO or sailcloth strap, as well as a titanium bracelet; the red gold watch comes with a blue NATO or sailcloth strap. For both models, the sailcloth strap can be combined with a pin buckle or folding clasp, as desired. This new model is a welcome addition to the Fifty Fathoms collection, embodying Blancpain’s passion for the underwater world which was initially expressed in 1953 with the launch of the first modern diver’s watch. Created by JeanJacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s coCEO at the time and a pioneer of scuba diving, the Fifty Fathoms represented a turning point in the watch industry by setting the standard for diver’s watches.

Deepsea

The watch of the deep, waterproof to an extreme depth of 3,900 metres, the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

Released in 2008, the Rolex Deepsea meets the exacting requirements of professional divers in terms of resistance to underwater pressure, precision and reliability, while featuring the aesthetic DNA and intrinsic characteristics of the watches in the Oyster Perpetual collection. In 2014, Rolex released a commemorative version of the Rolex Deepsea sporting a deepblue to pitch-black gradient dial. This D-blue dial is reminiscent of the ocean’s twilight zone, where the last trickle of light from the surface disappears into the abyss. It echoes James Cameron’s Deepsea Challenge expedition to the deepest point in the ocean, partnered by Rolex and the National Geographic Society. As a tribute to this partnership, the ‘DEEPSEA’ marking was added to the dial in a colour inspired by Cameron’s green submersible.

The Rolex Deepsea benefits from the Ringlock system, a case architecture developed and patented by Rolex that allows it to resist the colossal pressure exerted by water at the depth of 3,900 metres, equivalent to a weight of approximately three tonnes on the crystal.

The Ringlock system is based on a combination of three elements: a slightly domed 5.5 mm-thick sapphire crystal; a highperformance nitrogen-alloyed steel ring, positioned inside the middle case of the watch between the crystal and the case back, which withstands the water pressure; and a case back made from a titanium alloy held tight against the high-performance ring by a screw-down Oystersteel ring.

These three components are superposed in a middle case crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosionresistant alloy. The Triplock winding crown, protected by an integral crown guard, screws down against the case, completing the waterproofness system.

The Oyster case of the Rolex Deepsea, 44 mm in diameter, is also equipped with the helium escape valve patented by Rolex in 1967. This safety valve allows excess pressure built up inside the watch case to escape during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber, without compromising the waterproofness of the watch.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert in black ceramic that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. The insert, patented by Rolex, is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the hightech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The moulded, recessed numerals and graduations are coated with platinum using a PVD process. The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease, even when wearing gloves.

Great attention was paid to the legibility of this professional divers’ watch. The Chromalight hour markers and hands are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a longlasting blue glow - for up to two times longer than traditional phosphorescent materials. On the bezel, the triangular ‘zero’ marker of the graduation is visible in the dark thanks to an embedded capsule containing the same luminescent material.

Like all Rolex watches, the Rolex Deepsea is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation attests that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

Officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) the movement is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification.

The Rolex Deepsea is equipped with calibre 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.

The oscillator of calibre 3235 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed and patented by Rolex.

Calibre 3235 has an optimized version of the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring its regularity in any position.

This calibre incorporates the Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus and patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also insensitive to magnetic fields.

Calibre 3235 is fitted with a self-winding module featuring a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.

Legend

Now available in coloured versions, the Legend Diver Watch has a history filled with technical achievements

Longines has been a name long associated with sport, and so it is only fitting that its expertise are brought to diving. It all began in 1937, when water-resistance became a quality criterion.

Longines developed a watch case with water resistant push-pieces for its renowned 13ZN caliber, taking care to patent this creation. Subsequently, the wingedhourglass brand brought forth a number of developments, which led it to launch its first civil diving watch in 1958 and several other watches of this type during the 1960s.

Some of these flagship pieces have since been re-issued as part of an “immersion in heritage”. This includes the Longines Legend Diver Watch, released in 2007.

An icon of the rich heritage of the winged hourglass brand, this line has gradually expanded over the years and today proposes new versions in steel with blue or brown shades.

The latest versions of The Longines Legend Diver Watch conserve the spirit and the pure lines of the original timepiece, while benefiting from the brand’s watchmaking expertise. They feature up-to-date technical characteristics, such as a boxshaped sapphire glass, two screw-in crowns and a screw-down case back; they are water resistant to 300 metres or they have an automatic movement with a silicon spring balance, made exclusively for Longines.

The blue or brown shaded dial features luminous hands, hour markers interspersed with luminescent squares and Arab numerals enhanced with SuperLumiNova® rectangles for optimum visibility. A reminder of the codes of the sport for which this watch was originally intended. And just like on the original model, the 42 mm case back is decorated with an embossed emblem of a diver. A structured blue or brown leather strap matches the colour of the dial.

Pelagos

Developed to a set of unique specifications created in collaboration with a specialist unit of the French Navy

Since the 1950s and creation of one of the first modern professional divers’ watches to the 1980s, the Tudor brand has been a regular supplier to the French Navy. With the Pelagos FXD model, where FXD refers to the extra robust fixed strap bars of the case, Tudor is reviving this historic collaboration. Presenting a technical watch that meets a unique set of specifications that was developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers, the prestigious Commando Hubert, Tudor continues the relationship that dates back to 1956.

Back then, the Groupe d’ tude et de Recherches SousMarines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in reallife situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling Tudor to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.

Today, the most famous Tudor divers’ watch used by the French Navy is the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials “M.N.” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations, “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-’70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers. Although officially removed from the French Navy’s supply stocks some twenty years ago, it can still be seen sometimes today on the wrists of reserve and retired sailors alike. The Pelagos FXD model is inspired by this emblematic reference.

Developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD model is based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding. For this reason, it includes many functional features that are new to Tudor, such as its fixed strap bars that are machined into the main body of the 42 mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette.

Another feature specific to this model is the 120-notch rotating bezel. Bidirectional with retrograde graduation from 60 to 0, it does not correspond to the ISO 6425:2018 standard of divers’ watches, but instead meets the specific needs of the method known as “underwater navigation”, one of the specialities of combat swimmers.

Underwater navigation consists of reaching a precise location by sea, without surfacing, by following a meticulously planned route. Divers carry out this underwater navigation in pairs, connected to one another by a strap known as a life line, and complete a series of straight swims guided by a magnetic compass. They swim at a constant speed for a set time in each section, completing as many sections as necessary whilst timing each one exactly. This navigation entails restarting a countdown at each change of course. The anticlockwise graduation and luminescence of the bezel of this model make it easy to set up and monitor each countdown, by aligning the time set for the section to be covered on the bezel with the minute hand. When the minute hand arrives opposite the triangle, the team changes course and the diver in charge of timing begins the next countdown. The model has also been fitted with a large bezel ring, which exceeds the diameter of the case for optimum grip, even with neoprene gloves and hands that are numb from long dives in cold water.

In aesthetic terms, the Pelagos FXD model is inspired by the Tudor divers’ watches historically used by the French Navy. It is navy blue in colour and has the characteristic square hour markers and angular hands, known as Snowflake, introduced by the brand in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. It also features a rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert with luminescent material. Its 42mm titanium case is waterproof to 200 metres and is entirely satin-brushed to produce a matt effect to limit light reflections. To highlight the watch’s official character, its case back bears the logo of the Marine nationale (French Navy) brand composed of an anchor topped with a sailor’s hat, as well as a historically inspired engraving of M.N.21 for “Marine nationale 2021.

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 that drives the Pelagos FXD model displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions. It has the finish typical of Tudor Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satinbrushed with sand-blasted details, while its bridges and plate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a twopoint fixing. Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is certified as a chronometer by the COSC, with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute.