Midnight Sun

IT’S A LAND OF EXTREMES – six months of a brutal winter, at least two of which are spent in 24/7 darkness, followed by a joyous yet short-lived summer, a high quality of life, saunas, lakes, the Northern Lights, an abundance of nature and, of course, Santa Claus. Little wonder then that Finland has been ranked the happiest country in the world for the sixth consecutive year. There are many theories about the source of their happiness, but ask a Finn whether they are happy or content, and they might at first look at you askance, before most likely settling on contentment. Sometimes, gratitude is all you need.

For more than 500 years, the construct of “sisu” has been interwoven into the national character. With no direct translation, sisu means stoic determination, tenacity, grit, bravery, resilience and hardiness: pushing forward in the face of adversity and nearimpossible odds. This means that even in adversity (such as six months of winter), a Finn perseveres, and without whining. In search of some of this joy myself, I found there to be a few conducive elements to Finland’s heralded happiness. And you, too, could find your own joy when visiting…

Get Into Nature

Living in such proximity to nature is fundamental to the Finn’s enjoyment of life. With three quarters of the country forested and a staggering 188 000 lakes, Finland’s people savour life’s simple pleasures: pure water, clean air and forest walks.

Being out in nature helps to generate positive emotions, such as joy, creativity, peacefulness and tranquillity, enhancing concentration. There is mounting evidence that nature has benefits for both physical and psychological human wellbeing, acting as a “balm” for our brains.

Since there’s an abundance of nature, especially in their urban environments, Finns have little excuse not to venture out. In the capital city of Helsinki, which has a population of about 1.5 million, residents have access to 4 800 hectares of forests and a further 4 500 hectares of recreational forests in the surrounding municipalities. Finland’s forests are open to everyone thanks to a law known as “jokamiehen oikeudet”, or “everyman’s right”, which entitles public access to any natural areas, whether public or privately owned.

Getting Around

Helsinki and its surrounding cities of Espoo, Vantaa, Kauniainen and Lahti were named the 2012 World Design Capital. The city promotion project, aimed at making cities better, was a massive collaboration between the private and public sector, and is evident in their prompt and efficient service delivery. These cities work.

You could catch an Uber, but why would you when there’s an abundance of accessible and inexpensive options throughout the country? Residents can catch a bus, tram, train, commuter service or ferry to just about everywhere. Scores cycle and some drive cars (many of which are electric), but there isn’t much of a rush hour. Drivers don’t appear stressed, so the city’s eerily devoid of the sounds of hooters and shouting. And the citizens never jaywalk: pedestrians wait for their turn to cross the streets. Traffic bliss.

FOREST WALKS, TALKS, EATS AND CHILLS

Half an hour’s drive from Helsinki is the Finnish Nature Centre Haltia – a stateowned modern exhibition and event centre bringing Finland’s natural treasures under one roof. The best time to see the Aurora Borealis is from the end of August to April, but that’s more than 1 000km away from Helsinki. At Haltia, you can experience the dancing illuminations and crackling noises of the Northern Lights in an immersive exhibit all year round. To mark the centre’s 10th anniversary, its most recent exhibition, titled “Swamp, Swamp and Social Media”, explores the evolution of Finnish nature in different eras from the various perspectives. Follow the well-marked paths (many of which are wheelchair-friendly and floodlit) or take a guided tour of the spruce forest, which includes foraging for wild lingonberries, blueberries and cloudberries, as well as mushrooms, arctic moss and nettle.

Haltia’s restaurant offers dinners at the campfire, and you can enjoy a starter of rye bread with kermaviili (cottage cheese), cucumber and dollops of “caviar”, freshly caught salmon grilled on a wooden plank and served with tartar sauce and roasted baby potatoes, followed by a delicious cloudberry compote.

Sleep In Comfort

Scandic is the largest Nordic hotel operator with a network of about 280 hotels and around 58 000 rooms in operation and under development in six countries. In Helsinki, the hotel group has dozens of properties. The Scandic Grand Central Helsinki is in a prime location right next to the Helsinki Central Railway Station, where trains almost never stop moving. The hotel offers top service, a brasserie and an exceptional breakfast buffet. Built in 1909, the original Art Nouveau building is now spread over five floors with 490 rooms –13 of which are pet-friendly and five allergyfriendly. It offers bike loans, a 24-hour shop, a gym and impressive saunas.

Get Your Art Fix

Across the railway square from the Scandic Grand Central you’ll find the Ateneum, Finland’s most renowned art museum, which has a collection of more than 30 000 national treasures that span from the 18th century to the modern era. Visitors are encouraged to engage in the museum’s different encounters, so they can converse, listen to music, create art, investigate and be inspired. The museum offers six free annual days, otherwise the cost is €20 per adult or free for under 18s. There are guided tours on Sundays in the main official languages Finnish, Swedish, English and Russian.

Best Meals

For traditional, homely fare, Savotta, which means “logging site”, is a must-visit. Positioned just across the way from both the Helsinki Cathedral and the heart of the government, Senate Square, Savotta is part of a family-owned group of restaurants in the city. It’s rustic, quaint and old – the wooden floorboards are over 100 years old and most of the furniture pieces are beautiful antiques.

Expect to find salmon on the menu, together with reindeer, a “moose” burger (made with pork), local cheeses and red currant ice cream.

Nolla – located in the design district –means zero, and this neighbourhood restaurant is proving that great food can go hand-in-hand with sustainability. Awarded a Michelin Green Star, Nolla minimises the waste it produces everyday in line with its waste-free ideology. All the ingredients (except olive oil and wine) are sourced from local farmers, fishermen and producers, with a strong focus on sustainability. They have thought of every little detail – from their clothing and energy consumption to only employing staff from marginalised communities. Menu options include a set chef’s menu or à la carte, which this summer includes ricotta, tomato and red current sorbet; spring cabbage with ramson chimichurri, grilled peas and mint vinaigrette; and coriander marshmallow ice cream with a cucumber granita and basil syrup.

Sweat It All Out

On Unesco’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, you’ll see that sauna culture is a way of life for Finns and, usually, it entails ice swimming to cool off between sessions. With around 3.3 million saunas found in a country of 5.5 million inhabitants, saunas are readily accessible. At the Haltia centre, there are two sauna buildings equipped with showers and changing rooms. Go with a few friends (or make new ones as the Finns are a friendly nation), and don’t be ashamed to strip off and take the plunge – it’s invigorating, lifeaffirming and will certainly help you find your zen. ■