The of the magicelder

THERE’S ONE TREE that can be seen growing prolifically all over the UK in woodlands and hedgerows and for me, it defines summer in the countryside like nothing else. The Sambucus nigra, more commonly known as the elderberry or elderflower tree, is gnarled and scruffy-looking most of the year. You wouldn’t normally give it a second glance, but right now, covered in frothy, creamycoloured flowers, the elder is truly a sight to behold. Seen growing as both a tree and bush, the elder has been revered since ancient times as a tree that brings protection. Our tree, which we inherited with the house, must be at least 30 years old. It grows right outside our bedroom window, almost reaching the guttering. According to folklore, an elder planted near your home will keep the devil at bay. When the weather has been as warm as it has been lately, I throw open the bedroom window to be met with the heavenly sweet fragrance of the elderflower blossom. I think there may be some truth in it after all.

n ALL ABOUT THE ELDER

• Elder wood is great for whittling and carving, and with the branches being hollow there’s a long tradition of musical pipes and whistles being made from it

• The elders’ Latin name Sambucus comes from the Greek word ‘sambuke’, which is a lyre-type instrument made from the wood

• The Anglo-Saxons favoured the elder to make bellows to help light fires and made dyes using the berries and bark

• Elder was traditionally planted near dairies because it was believed it stopped milk from turning sour and kept flies away

n GROWING ELDER YOURSELF (IT HAPPENS TO US ALL)

Elder is renowned for being hardy. A native tree preferring moist welldrained soil and grown in full to partial shade.

Here are some varieties to consider:

Sambucus racemosa ‘Sutherland gold’ is medium-sized and is typical of the common variety with clusters of creamy flowers and blackberries in late summer.

Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’ is a very attractive variety which I’ve just planted myself after spotting one in a neighbour’s garden. The foliage is almost black (hence the name) and with fragrant pale pink flowers, this dramatic specimen plant definitely stands out from the crowd.

Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’ is a very similar variety with foliage of a deep plum colour turning red in autumn.

Sambucus nigra ‘Marginata’ is a variegated elder with distinctive yellow-margined dark green leaves. Expect small creamy flowerheads in spring followed by black fruit in late summer.

As the common names of the elder suggest, the tree is probably most renowned for its flowers and berries. There’s nothing more thirst quenching on a hot summer’s day than a glass of elderflower cordial. Made from freshly picked flowerheads, these can also be made into champagne tea, jellies and even dipped into sweet batter and eaten as fritters. The elderberries that follow the delightful blossom are also delicious transformed into wine and jams. Since the days of the druids, elderberries have been used as a remedy for all kinds of ailments and around 400 BCE, Greek physician Hippocrates called the elder tree his “medicine chest”.

Packed with vitamin C and phytochemicals, elderberries have proven antiviral properties and are an excellent way to boost your immune system. However, before we go any further, I must stress that all parts of the elder are toxic if eaten raw. Cooking the flowerheads and berries removes this danger but the branches, bark and leaves should never be eaten, raw or cooked.

n ELDERFLOWER CORDIAL

Why not make the most of this lovely weather we’ve been having by harvesting some elderflower blossoms and giving this easy recipe (right) a try?

If you haven’t a tree of your own, you won’t have to look far for an elder as most

Elderflower cordial

INGREDIENTS

A wide basket or trough to put your flowerheads

2 1l sterilised glass bottles with screw-on caps

20 freshly picked elderflower heads

2 unwaxed lemons

1.8kg caster sugar

75g citric acid

Method

1. Put the water and sugar in a large pan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

hedgerows will have a bush ripe for the picking! Early morning or early evening on a dry day are good times to go. Avoid picking elderflowers from trees that are on a busy road though, as they can be covered in dust and grime and polluted with fumes. Also, flowerheads that are growing at knee height where dogs, cats and other animals may have roamed should be left well alone.

n WHAT TO PICK

Select the best and freshest open flowers you can, cutting them from the stem as close as possible. Next, shake the flowerheads gently to dislodge any insects. Don’t wash the flowers first as this affects the fragrance and can weaken the flavour. As a guide, you’ll need about 20 good-sized flowerheads to make roughly two litres of cordial. When you have made this recipe a few times you’ll get an idea of how many flowerheads to use, and the strength of taste you prefer.

2. Next, add the zest of the lemons to a large bowl with the elderflower heads. Slice the lemons and put them in the bowl.

3. Pour the boiling syrup over the flowers and lemons and stir in the citric acid. Cover with a clean cloth and leave for 24 hours.

4. Finally, strain the cordial through a sieve or muslin and then pour it into prepared sterilised bottles with tops and it’s ready to drink. The cordial will keep well in the fridge for several weeks.

This delicately fragrant drink can be enjoyed in all kinds of different ways. I love it simply diluted with sparkling mineral water or with some white wine or gin. Ice cubes made from cordial are great also – try adding a couple to a glass of prosecco or Champagne.

Elderflower fritters are divine as well – especially eaten with a generous dollop of cream that has, you guessed it, been infused with elderflower syrup.

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