A year in Provence

Jon Atkinson explores this fascinating French region and recommends four bottles to try

PETER MAYLE’S MUCH-LOVED BOOK describes what is, I suspect, an aspiration for many of us: to give up the rat race and enjoy a bucolic existence in a place where the pace of life is altogether more sedentary. Where that is might vary considerably but the south of France holds a magical allure to a good number of us, whether you turn right at the end of the Rhône and head into the Languedoc, or left into Provence, neither is likely to disappoint!

Inevitably, my judgement tends to be swayed by the wine options, but this month I’m putting that aside, and in the hope that the glorious weather that we had in June might make a return, and we are going to focus on Provence.

An unusual region for wine, in so far as nearly 90% of what is made there is Rosé – which equates to more than 140,000,000 bottles each year! The region itself stretches some 200 km across the south of France from the Camargue in the west, to just outside Cannes in the

Ambassadeur Côteaux d’Aix en Provence 2022 east. The climate here is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean, and the vineyards are exposed to 2,800+ hours of sunshine each year. The famous Mistral wind helps cool the vineyards whilst reducing humidity and its various related illnesses. This partly explains why an impressive 55% are either organic or HVE-certified (High Environmental Value).

There are 12 permitted grape varieties in the region, with the significant players volume-wise being Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. As is the case in most of Europe, Provençal Rosés are made using the Saignée method. Essentially, it is the same as for making red wine, but the grape skins are removed far earlier in the process and given that Provence produces some of the palest Rosés around, the time spent in contact with the skins is very short indeed.

Provence Rosé is undoubtedly on a roll with sales. Exports have been increasing year on year for some time now and the UK has become arguably the most significant market.

This is produced by the Hostellerie des Vins de Rognes, an excellent co-operative established in 1924. Its 550 hectares account for some 15% of the entire AOP Côteaux d’Aix output. Typically pale and delicate coral pink in colour, this wine is alive with aromas of cherry, strawberry and redcurrant. It is light-medium bodied and very dry, crisp and refreshing but with ample fruitiness to balance it out with good length. £12.50

La Vidaubanaise ‘Cuvée Constance’ Côtes de Provence 2022

La Vidaubanaise is also a co-op, but whereas Rognes is in the very west of the region, this one is out on the eastern perimeter. Established in 1912 in Vidauban, it has 110 growers with a combined total of 450 hectares of vineyard. ‘Cuvée Constance’ is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre that has an inviting bouquet of redcurrants, strawberries and melon. Delicate and flavoursome on the palate with a long, refreshing finish, it’s ideal paired with lighter summer fare such as pasta and grilled fish. £12.50

AIX Côteaux d’Aix en Provence 2022

Maison Saint AIX was established in 2009 when Dutchman Erik Kurver acquired an unprofitable operation specialising in red and white wines and switched production to Rosé. He also hacked off many of the locals by successfully registering the AIX name right under their noses! Made from Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault with just a splash of Carignan, this is a superb example. The wine is pure, fresh, crisp and youthful with serious undercurrents – some star anise on the nose, watermelon, and citrus zest with a decent structure.

Domaine Ott ‘Clos Mireille’ Côtes de Provence 2022

If AIX is ‘new money’, then Domaine Ott is very much old money. This 2022 vintage, a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and the balance of Rolle, exhales aromas of red berries, lemon, peach, guava and hints of curry leaf. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, combining fine acidity and a mouthwatering finish. This is the Provence Rosé that sets the bar. Its distinctive ‘skittle’ shaped bottle was designed by René Ott and although the estate is now owned by Champagne Louis Roederer, it is still run by cousins Christian and Jean-François Ott. £42