Chow Down with John Batchelor at Lulu and Blu

BY JOHN BATCHELOR

Lulu and Blu is located on the back row of a shopping center, almost hidden unless you are looking for it already. The interior is larger than it looks from outside. Very pleasant hostesses greet you at entry. From their station, a large bar area flanks to the right. The rest of the space is divided into smaller dining rooms. Noise level is moderate to soft. This is one of the few places in our area where I have no di culty engaging in conversation. I really appreciate that, and based on reader mail, so do a lot of others in the dining public.

Executive Chef/Owner Jeremy Walley studied culinary arts at GTCC. He was sous chef for a brief period at M. Stephen’s (RIP), which led him to Blue Water Grille. He went on to help open Lulu and Blu where he held the executive chef position from 2014-2017, leaving to open Manna Food Truck. He bought the restaurant in March 2019.

The menu is wide-ranging. The kitchen vows that they can cope with any diet or restriction (but to be fair, I would suggest calling ahead if you need special accommodations). Although the cuisine is primarily Italian in concept, lots of small plates are o ered that are bound by no particular tradition beyond commendable talent and creativity in the kitchen. You can eat tapas style if you like.

Roasted Cauliflower is presented in a bright red sauce made from dried chiles and salt-cured pork in a balsamic reduction, topped with deep green basil pesto and crushed macadamias. Bright and cheerful in appearance, it tastes as good as it looks.

We ordered Gnocchi with tru es and Romano cheese. (Agave Mustard Glaze with Pastrami Ragu is the alternative.) This lush sauce is plate-licking good. The gnocchi (potato dumplings) are panroasted, which gives them a light brown crust and added texture.

You get three Wagyu Beef Sliders in an order. Hosted in a toasted brioche bun, the deeply flavored beef patties are covered with warm, soft bu alo mozzarella cheese, a slice of smoked bacon, and a sun-dried tomato aioli. This “starter”