2022 Maine Spring Travel Guide

MAINE

SPRING GUI DE

MAINE GUIDE Spring

1121 Main St., P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444 603-563-8111 newengland.com This special edition was produced by Yankee Publishing Inc. for the Maine Office of Tourism. Select stories and photographs are excerpted from articles previously published

by Yankee.

Vol. 1, No. 1 Copyright 2022 by Yankee Publishing Inc.; all rights reserved.

PUBLISHER Brook Holmberg M A RK E TING DIRECTOR Kate Hathaway Weeks EDITOR Mel Allen A RT DIRECTOR Katharine Van Itallie M A N AGING EDITOR Jenn Johnson SENIOR FE AT URES EDITOR Ian Aldrich SENIOR FOOD EDITOR Amy Traverso ASSOCI ATE EDITOR Joe Bills PHOTO EDITOR Heather Marcus

On the cover: A sunrise view of Cadillac Mountain on Mount Desert Island, seen from a field of lupines in Sorrento.

Photo by Susan Cole Kelly

WELCOME! How time flies: It seems like only yesterday that Maine’s expansive winter playgrounds were in full swing, with skiers and snowshoers discovering all the thrills that snowy weather brings. Yet spring has come again to the Pine Tree State, meaning visitors and residents alike are shedding heavy coats and boots for a lighter wardrobe and a warmer outlook.

Though long renowned as a summer destination, Maine is a true four-season escape. Nearly as large as all the other New England states combined, it holds so many diverse experiences: You can marvel at Maine’s 3,500-mile coastline and discover hiking adventures throughout the state that pay off with exceptional mountain, forest, and ocean views. You can go whitewater rafting in The Forks, embark on a moose safari in the Moosehead Lake area, and wander through rooms of paintings by the world-famous Wyeth family at Rockland’s Farnsworth Art Museum. There are many Maines, and each can provide memories that last a lifetime.

Last year, with travel restrictions beginning to ease, some 15.6 million visitors came to Maine—an upward trend that promises to continue in 2022. After all, there’s plenty of room for exploring here. Wellknown destinations such as Bar Harbor, Portland, and Ogunquit work their charms even in the shoulder seasons, but there are also countless hidden gems to discover in quieter towns and remote natural areas.

And unlike in summer, when many people book extended stays in one location, in springtime the visitor may find it easier to meander from town to town, inn to inn, and from fields and forest to beaches and seashore.

That freedom of movement runs through every aspect of springtime travel in Maine, by the way, right down to finding ample parking and getting a seat at a popular restaurant.

In the end, a spring visit to Maine offers the chance not just to travel, but to immerse yourself in everything that makes this state so special: the beauty, the culture and heritage, the quality of life it offers. And when you depart, you know you’ll return, because what began as a vacation has become an experience you’ll want to revisit in every season.

—Steve Lyons Director, Maine Office of Tourism

2

Maine Spring Guide 2022

A loon with chicks on Great Meadow Stream, part of the lovely Belgrade Lakes in Maine’s Kennebec Valley.

CONTENTS SPRING 2022 MO MEN T S 5 A Picture-Perfect Season Photos that celebrate the joy of spring across Maine.

D ISCO VER I E S 10 All Aboard In the waters off the MidCoast, windjammer cruises offer an unforgettable taste of life at sea.

PAUL TESSIER/STOCKSY

12 In Full Bloom Discovering a flower-filled tribute to Swedish immigrant heritage in Aroostook County.

16 A Walk to Remember Ogunquit’s Marginal Way: a coastal stroll like no other.

18 Head for the Hills Perched below Maine’s grand western mountains, the Oxford Hills prove that small is beautiful.

22 Paddle On! Head to the Kennebec Valley to plunge into New England’s ultimate whitewater rafting scene.

25 We’ll Drink to That The Maine Beer Trail reveals how the Pine Tree State abounds in creative—and sustainable—takes on craft beer.

I N S PI R ATI O N S 28 Editors’ Picks Planning a getaway to Maine this spring? Check out more than two dozen ideas from Yankee on where to play, eat, and stay.

ICONS 35 Ladies First A salute to outdoor icon “Fly Rod Crosby,” who led the way for generations of Maine Guides.

VisitMaine.com

3

MAINE GUIDE Spring

1. THE MAINE BEACHES Long swaths of white sand and scenic rocky coves give many visitors an unforgettable first look at Maine’s famous coastline.

8

7 4

5

1

4. DOWNEAST & ACADIA Home to Acadia National Park and stunning historic lighthouses, this is also a place to revel in Maine’s state fruit: wild blueberries.

3 2

DISCOVERING THE

PINE TREE STATE W

here are the best places to go in Maine? What makes the best Maine vacations? There is no one answer, for this is a state where the tourism regions are as distinct as they are plentiful.

For parks and natural sights, many are drawn to the Maine Highlands region, home to the state’s biggest lake, Moosehead, as well as its tallest mountain, Katahdin. Those who love city excitement find all the first-class dining, shopping, and nightlife they seek in the Greater Portland & Casco Bay region,

4

Maine Spring Guide 2022

3. MIDCOAST & ISLANDS Maine’s classic coastal charm abounds amid picturesque villages and vibrant waterfronts.

while classic seaside vacation spots await in the Maine Beaches region.

The stories in this guide provide a sampling of the many things to do in Maine’s tourism regions, including windjammer cruising in the MidCoast & Islands [p. 10], a Swedish cultural festival in Aroostook County [p. 12], and whitewater rafting in the Kennebec Valley [p. 22]. And while it’s impossible to sum up all the destinations and adventures that Maine has to offer, this guide can help map out the best Maine vacation for you.

5. MAINE’S LAKES & MOUNTAINS This region lives up to its name with hundreds of glacial lakes and two majestic mountain ranges traversed by the legendary Appalachian Trail.

6. THE KENNEBEC VALLEY Over 5,000 scenic square miles offer wilderness and whitewater alongside quiet river towns and the state capital, Augusta.

7. THE MAINE HIGHLANDS Natural beauty reaches its peak in the center of Maine, where Katahdin reigns over the massive and “forever wild” Baxter State Park.

8. AROOSTOOK COUNTY “The Crown of Maine” beckons visitors with Acadian culture, historic sites, and endless outdoor recreation possibilities.

JA NGELTUN/ ISTOCK

6

2. GREATER PORTLAND & CASCO BAY Don’t-miss restaurants, shops, museums, and breweries make for a lively scene in Maine’s largest city and its neighboring communities.

A plein-air artist finds inspiration in the expansive water views around Schoodic Point, part of DownEast & Acadia.

A PICTURE-PERFECT SEASON CA RL TREMBL AY

T

he beauty of Maine is often described as “rugged,” a word that encompasses everything from dense forests and towering mountains to dramatic stretches of rockbound coast and foaming, crashing ocean waves.

Ancient and timeless, these are the images of Maine that inspire awe.

There is another feeling, however, that arises in visitors who experience Maine in the spring. With the long winter over at last, streams and river come back to life, and then the trees, and finally the flowers: lilacs and

lupines, hardy beach roses, glorious fields of potato blossoms. Every region is brushed with something soft and green and fresh, evoking a feeling of promise and potential.

Springtime in Maine is made even lovelier by its laidback nature. Where the rest of the year is typically filled with doing—swimming, hiking, skiing and snowshoeing—this is the perfect time for seeing. Strike out into the landscape with no plan, just a camera (and, yes, a light jacket); look around; and discover a season as varied and surprising as Maine itself.

VisitMaine.com

5

MAINE GUIDE Spring

MAINE’S LAKES & MOUNTAINS: The Androscoggin River once powered a major papermaking industry, but today it’s a natural attraction that draws canoeists, kayakers, and anglers alike. It also enlivens the downtown scene of the twin cities through which it flows, Auburn and Lewiston.

6

Maine Spring Guide 2022

SUSA N COLE KELLY (TOP); JERRY MONK M A N/ECOPHOTOGR A PHY (BOTTOM )

MIDCOAST & ISLANDS: Blossoms brighten the landscape around Camden, a town whose working harbor is filled with fishing boats and schooners.

There is also a vibrant artist community here and in neighboring Rockport, where galleries and shops invite visitors to peruse local arts and crafts.

R AY MOND FORBES, LLC/STOCKSY (TOP); JERRY MONK M A N/ECOPHOTOGR A PHY (BOTTOM )

THE MAINE BEACHES: Spring may be a little too early to start plunging into the brisk waters of the Atlantic, but it’s a wonderful time to take leisurely strolls on uncrowded beaches and explore classic vacation spots such as Ogunquit, Wells, York, Kennebunk, and Old Orchard Beach (pictured).

GREATER PORTLAND & CASCO BAY: From jogging around Back Cove, to sampling the food trucks on the Eastern Promenade, to shopping in the historic Old Port, visitors to Maine’s biggest city, Portland, are never far from the sparkling waters of Casco Bay.

VisitMaine.com

7

MAINE GUIDE Spring

DOWNEAST & ACADIA: One of the best ways to experience Acadia National Park is to stroll, bike, or take a horse-drawn carriage ride on the 45 miles of rustic carriage roads that weave around the mountains and valleys of this 49,000-acre national treasure.

8

Maine Spring Guide 2022

JONATH A N KOZOW Y K (TOP); JERRY MONK M A N/ECOPHOTOGR A PHY (BOTTOM )

AROOSTOOK COUNTY: Potato fields in bloom near Madawaska provide a picturesque testament to northern Maine’s signature crop. In addition to its rolling farmland, Aroostook County is rich in forests, lakes, and rivers that make it a haven for outdoor recreation.

PAUL TESSIER/STOCKSY (TOP); SUSA N COLE KELLY (BOTTOM )

THE KENNEBEC VALLEY: Home to what is widely considered the best whitewater rafting scene in New England, the Kennebec Valley shows its quieter side at the jewel-like Belgrade Lakes, beloved by loons and freshwater fishermen alike.

THE MAINE HIGHLANDS: Just 10 miles from Maine’s third-largest city, Bangor, spring waters rush past Leonard’s Mills, part of a reconstructed 1790s logging and milling community at the Maine Forest & Logging Museum in Bradley.

VisitMaine.com

9

MAINE GUIDE Spring

ALL ABOARD

Maine windjammer cruises offer an unforgettable taste of life on the water.

T

his year marks the 122nd sailing season for Victory Chimes, the largest passenger sailing ship in the country and the grand dame of the Maine windjamming scene. From June to October, this 127-foot floating National Historic Landmark embarks on cruises ranging from three to six nights along Maine’s coast. We recently caught up with owner and captain Sam Sikkema to learn more. —Ian Aldrich Let’s start with the basics: What is a windjammer? It’s not necessarily a kind of ship, but rather a kind of trip that goes out for multiple nights and explores areas you normally can’t get to. It’s a bit like going on a camping expedition, but on a really cool old ship with some great, interesting people.

So why is windjamming associated with historic ships? When the business started, it began with these old schooners.

And as time wore on, people thought they were interesting, and windjamming became a way to preserve these vessels and keep them working. You can use a newer vessel—it just won’t have the same character.

What’s special about Victory Chimes?

In the late 19th century there were more three-masted schooners built in this country than any other kind of sailing vessel. It was the most successful type of cargo ship ever developed and essentially created the [shipping] backbone of North America, hauling

10

Maine Spring Guide 2022

cargo up and down the East Coast for 100 years. And today Victory Chimes is the only one left that still sails.

What kind of person is a windjammer trip for? If you’re an experienced sailor, I think there’s a lot you’d enjoy about going on a windjammer, since people can help out if they want. Yet even if you’re not interested in boats, it’s enjoyable because there’s more than just boats going on. We’re moving during the day, but every night we anchor in a secluded cove, where we cook dinner, hang out. We also have small rowboats and sailboats we use to explore. We’re in this amazing cruising ground off the coast of Maine, an archipelago of almost 3,000 islands, but some of them are quite remote. Part of what we’re doing is getting people out to see something they wouldn’t see driving up Route 1.

What do you begin to see from passengers as the trip goes on? A three-day trip is great, but with the longer trips, there’s something about that third night—people start to relax a little more and really connect with the experience. I always prefer to go out for a week because we get to know everyone and explore a little farther.

Our challenge isn’t getting people to like being on the ship—it’s that most people don’t want to leave when the trip is over.

They love it.

To learn more about Victory Chimes and windjamming, go to victorychimes.com.

The largest member of Maine’s windjammer fleet, Victory Chimes, under sail.

(PHOTO BY JEREMY T. GRANT)

ON DECK While windjammer day sails and private charters are offered at a number of New England ports, the beating heart of the windjammer scene is in Rockland and Camden, where the best-known boats make their home. Among Maine’s salty stars: Angelique: This modern (c. 1980) version of a 19thcentury fishing trawler stands out in a crowd thanks to its vivid maroon sails, which evoke traditional “tanbark” cotton sails.

Mary Day: The first schooner custom-built to carry passengers on windjammer vacations also boasts wood-fired heat in every cabin.

Grace Bailey: Built in 1882 to haul lumber, this venerable coaster also ferried Maine granite to New York City to build Grand Central Station.

Stephen Taber: The oldest documented sailing vessel in the U.S. in continuous service sports the same paint scheme as it did in 1871.

For more information, visit the website sailmainecoast.com or mainewindjammer cruises.com.

VisitMaine.com

11

MAINE GUIDE Spring

IN FULL BLOOM Discovering a flower-filled tribute to Maine’s immigrant heritage.

BY KATY KELLEHER

I

n a field encircled by tall pines, a group of volunteers are spread out and hunched down, backs bent in labor, sun beating down on necks. The air thrums with pollinators. We’re not collecting ingredients for food or objects for sale—we’re here to pick flowers. As I work, I hear an engine spark to life, and an old blue truck begins making its way across the grass toward the bumpy country road. The bed is filled with buckets of lupines. If you were to bury your head in one of them, you’d be submerged in a cloud of honey scent, intoxicating and light as a summer breeze.

Situated at the height of Maine, Aroostook County is a far-flung destination, more than 300 miles distant from Portland. But for me, it’s more than worth the trip: I’m here for the Midsommar Festival, a threeday event that takes place annually in the tiny villages of Stockholm and New Sweden.

Midsommar is a holiday with deep roots in Europe. People have been gathering

12

Maine Spring Guide 2022

flowers and lighting bonfires to mark the summer solstice since the sixth century, but it wasn’t until the Victorian era that Midsommar became a particularly Swedish event. And whereas modern Midsommar festivals in Sweden have evolved and changed, the festival at the Maine Swedish Colony, an area that includes New Sweden and Stockholm, has remained staunchly— and charmingly—traditional.

“The settlers came from Sweden in 1870, and we’ve never really changed how we celebrated,” explains festival co-chair Brenda Näsberg Jepson. “To modern-day Swedes, our Midsommar seems quaint and old-fashioned.”

This steadfast adherence to form is exactly why visitors come from all over the world to take part in this solstice celebration. Here’s how it unfolds: On Friday, children and local adults come together to gather flowers and prepare the food. That evening, everyone descends on the American Legion hall in Stockholm to enjoy a feast of Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes, lingonberry jam, and sweet pickles. There is live music and cheerful, anticipatory gossip. On Saturday, they gather in traditional dress outside the New Sweden Historical Society Museum to deck the maypole in lupines, watch the Little Folk

A LL PHOTOS BY GRETA RY BUS

above:

Adaptations of folkdräkt—Swedish folk costumes that represent where one’s family hails from— lend splashes of color to the Midsommar Festival at the Maine Swedish Colony.

left:

Outside the Lindsten Stuga, a wooden house typical of the early Maine Swedish colonists, a little girl pumps water for lupines that will be used to decorate the festival’s maypole.

VisitMaine.com

13

Spring

above: Musicians accompany a performance by the New Sweden Little Folk Dancers. right:

Topped with almonds and pearl sugar, Swedish rolls called bulla are signature treats at the Midsommar Festival.

opposite:

A highlight of the day’s festivities: children dancing around the flowerbedecked Majstång, or maypole.

14

Maine Spring Guide 2022

Dancers twirl and clap around the towering cross covered in blossoms, and participate in such activities as flower crown making and Dala horse painting.

Throughout the weekend, there are demonstrations at the forge, games of kubb on the church lawn, and vendors selling food, crafts, and souvenirs to tourists and townsfolk alike. On Sunday, the revelers attend church services at Thomas Park. There is more eating, more dancing, more music.

And throughout it all, there is endless talk about heritage, that elusive concept that ties one generation to the next, one group of displaced people back to their homeland.

Heritage, I’m reminded at Midsommar, is something to celebrate and treasure—not something to protect or hoard. “Everyone is Swedish here” is a phrase I hear time and again as I wander the grounds.

Midsommar is a festival of lightness, flowers, warmth, and food. It’s also a celebration of the natural movement of people.

The 51 immigrants who first made the arduous journey from Sweden to Maine in the summer of 1870 reproduced, their influence ballooning outward, spreading across the country as Olssons and Nelsons and Larssons and Anderssons married and moved.

For festival organizers, information about one’s own heritage—be it genealogical history or family tales of immigration and struggle—works to help “fill in your gaps,” as Jepson puts it. “It makes you feel whole,” she adds. I hear something similar from Lukas Lagasse, a University of Maine college student who has singlehandedly revived Swedish folk dancing among Aroostook County’s kids. For him, the purpose of Midsommar is less about lupines and cinnamon rolls and more about “feeling connected.”

“We have a saying up here,” he tells me.

“If you are not Swedish by genealogy, you can be Swedish by association. Swedishness is a feeling. It’s a feeling of community and comfort and understanding and appreciation.” Really, he says, “it’s just about being welcoming.” It’s a big-hearted sentiment, as sweet as lingonberry jam—and I’m inclined to believe it.

For more information on the Midsommar Festival, which this year will be held June 17–19, visit the New Sweden Historical Society’s page on Facebook.

A LL PHOTOS BY GRETA RY BUS

MAINE GUIDE

WHAT’S ON IN JUNE As spring gives way to summer, Maine’s events calendar starts filling up. Here’s a taste of what’s on tap this month; to browse more listings, go to visitmaine.com/events.

Margaretta Days Festival & Craft Fair, Machias: June 17–18; margarettadays.com Maine Oyster Festival, Freeport: June 24–26; visitfreeport.com/ themaineoysterfestival Maine Whoopie Pie Festival, DoverFoxcroft: June 25; mainewhoopiepie festival.com South Berwick Strawberry Festival: June 25; southberwick strawberryfestival.org Fourth of July Celebration, Limestone: June 25– July 4; facebook.com/ Limestones4thofJuly Windjammer Days, Boothbay Harbor: June 26–July 2; boothbayharbor windjammerdays.org Atlantic Music Festival, Waterville: Season runs from June 27 to Aug. 7; atlantic musicfestival.org

VisitMaine.com

15

MAINE GUIDE Spring

A WALK TO REMEMBER T

opposite:

A pedestrian passes by a replica miniature lighthouse on the Marginal Way. Entirely paved and mostly flat, the Marginal Way is hardly a strenuous hike, yet it remains one of the most popular in New England.

16

his is what it feels like to be a seabird, a poet, a pirate, on top of the world.

To take a walk on the edge of beauty, high over the ocean, while waves pound rocks into sculptures far below, and toss starfish and tiny shells into tidal pools scooped out like cauldrons.

Take a deep blue breath of Atlantic air and step onto the Marginal Way, which winds from Ogunquit Beach to tiny Perkins Cove, a collection of onetime fishing shacks now refurbished as shops and restaurants, shining like a periwinkle on the far side.

Along the way are 39 benches that—like people choosing their favorite view—face the horizon, engulfed by beach roses, or sit sequestered in a cedar grove, or perch on the cliff’s edge. There’s a bench for every mood, every season, every conceivable kind of vista.

It’s all impossible to resist, and why would you? The story of this strip of coast “on the margin” unfurls like a love story between the town of Ogunquit and the sea. To most, the Marginal Way is Ogunquit. Deeded to the town in 1925 by Josiah Chase, a retired lawyer from Portland, the granitecliff pathway was added to over time by abutters who contributed easements to create the easy mile-plus meander we know today.

Start near Ogunquit Beach and search for tucked-away Wharf Lane if you want a sneak preview, or duck down the “official” trail entrance near the Sparhawk Resort.

Some know the landmarks like their own children: Little Beach, Mother’s Beach, Dev-

Maine Spring Guide 2022

il’s Kitchen, the Marginal Way Lighthouse (with online daily views from a webcam).

It’s a funny thing about this cliff walk: You’re almost never alone, but it’s still plenty meditative. You’ll pass sunbathers, bench sitters, chess players, shutterbugs, musicians, painters, and kids clambering over boulders. Everyone finding their own little corner. Lots of everyones. In 2019, according to the counter installed by the town’s Marginal Way Committee, nearly 60,000 people visited in the month of June alone.

But this is much more than a tourist stroll. Ogunquit villagers are fierce about their walk. The town and various Marginal Way groups, both municipal and nonprofit, work overtime to maintain it: trimming back the invasive species, rebuilding benches, constantly improving (though there’s a moratorium on adding benches, a Friends of the Marginal Way memorial has been created, a pretty granite alcove with name plaques available). They also raise funds not only to repair damage done by nor’easters but also to reinforce and guard against future storms.

The allure, though, is unchanging. There’s the spectacle of this view, with such amazingly easy access (foot traffic is encouraged all along the way, with seven entrances).

There’s the gently rolling nature of the trail, making it a friendly walk for young and old.

And there’s always another bench around the corner, just begging you to sit and contemplate a view that stretches all the way to Spain. —Annie Graves

K INDR A CLINEFF

Ogunquit’s Marginal Way is a coastal stroll like no other.

VisitMaine.com

17

HEAD FOR THE

18

Maine Spring Guide 2022

MAINE GUIDE

HILLS

Spring

Perched at the feet of Maine’s grand western mountains, the Oxford Hills prove that small is beautiful.

BY MEL ALLEN

T Sunset over Long Lake in the Oxford Hills. inset: The array of globally inspired town names in the Oxford Hills has made this road sign a visitor favorite going back decades.

here are places in the world that work their way into our lives and memories and leave a glow that fades little, if at all, over the years. For me such a place is the Oxford Hills, where in a cabin beside a lovely lake in the village of Waterford, I began my life as a writer. I tell you this because the hamlets and ponds and lakes of these western hills are among the loveliest I know, and my affection for them may be, in part, because I knew them when my adult life was just getting in gear.

Only an hour north of Portland, this eight-town region is framed by the foothills of the White Mountains, and its waterways

JENNIFER GREEN ( L A KE); TICHNOR BROTHERS COLLECTION/BOSTON PUBLIC LIBR A RY, PRINT DEPA RTMENT (POSTCA RD)

VisitMaine.com

19

MAINE GUIDE Spring

come to life with boaters and anglers and even intrepid swimmers as soon as the apple blossoms dot the land in spring. Maybe it’s because so many people are drawn to the famous destinations of the southern Maine coast and the Presidentials to the west, but the Oxford Hills remain one of those secret, out-of-the-way places that are so fun to discover and make your own.

Short hikes into the mountains lead to vistas of forest and water. There are orchards and small farms, even a bison ranch, and the country roads are made for driving with windows down and stopping by streams and waterfalls. A traveler who arrives wanting to see beautiful historic homes and village greens and country inns will find them, like hidden pockets in a great overcoat that you keep reaching into and discovering unexpected treasures. (It is fitting that rock hounds from around the world have brought their curiosity and passion for gems and minerals here, to a region rich in tourmaline, beryl, rose quartz, and many others.)

This is what I mean: Route 26 is a road of commerce that cuts through the center of South Paris, lined with fast-food enterprises and stores that seemingly could be anywhere. But in the midst of the bustle, you’ll find the McLaughlin Garden & Homestead. From spring through fall, just walk in—there’s no charge.

Bernard McLaughlin grew up on an Aroostook County farm, and after he and his wife moved to South Paris in 1936, he started this two-acre garden when the surrounding area was still rural. For six decades, he tended it with such care that it became the showplace private garden in all of Maine, even as commercial development encroached. Garden enthusiasts from around the country would enter his homestead, with its stone walks and enormous barn, and he welcomed everyone. They found wildflowers, rows of iris, ferns, more than 100 different lilacs—so many, in fact, that a Lilac Festival is held here every Memorial Day weekend. He called his garden “a

20

Maine Spring Guide 2022

symphony of color,” and after he died in 1995, his friends and fans banded together to raise the money to protect it. You cannot visit the McLaughlin Garden without a sense of wonder at how much beauty one man brought to the world.

This is what I also mean: Just three miles north on Route 26 from the McLaughlin Garden there is a turn-off to Paris Hill Road. Take it. It will bring you to a hillside historic district with sweeping views to the distant White Mountains. The enclave of beautifully preserved 19th-century Federal and Greek Revival buildings includes the home of Hannibal Hamlin, who served as Abraham Lincoln’s vice president through a turbulent first term. The Hamlin Memorial Library & Museum is housed in the old stone Oxford County Jail; here, you’ll learn about Paris Hill and the luminaries who once lived there, and see an exhibit of local gems and minerals. When you have soaked up history and views, just four more miles north on Route 26, pull over at Snow Falls Rest Area. You can picnic by the falls and then follow an easy trail to a 300-foot gorge carved by the Little Androscoggin River.

When I return to the Oxford Hills, I am always reminded how it is not about grandeur but a sense of scale, and how easy it is for a visitor to feel a connection. I think of Waterford and its inns on Papoose Pond and Bear Pond and Keoka Lake, where cottages nestled in the woods dot the shore. I think of Harrison, which sits on two lovely lakes, and of Norway Lake, and its familyfriendly park and beach, and Thompson Lake in Oxford. The largest lakes are Long Lake and Thompson Lake, both stretching 12 miles. All the other lakes and ponds you can paddle around in an hour or two. Some of the earliest summer camps for children began in these western Maine waters; the kids grew up recalling the timeless days of swimming and paddling they enjoyed here, the peaks they climbed, the forests they explored. And these are the kinds of memories that are still waiting here, for anyone to make.

REGIONAL HIGHLIGHTS For more ideas on where to go and what to see in the Oxford Hills, go to oxfordhillsmaine.com.

Café Nomad, Norway: The go-to for homemade baked goods and locally sourced lunches. cafenomad.com Deertrees Theatre, Harrison: A summer theater since 1936, it’s hosted future Broadway stars. deertrees-theatre.org Dolce Amici, Norway: A unique combination of Italian gelato, bistro fare, and cocktails. dolceamicigelato.com McLaughlin Garden & Homestead, South Paris: Historic house museum and gardens that include Maine’s largest lilac collection. mclaughlingarden.org Paris Hill Historic District, Paris: Graceful 19th-century architecture preserved in its village setting.

The Hamlin Memorial Library & Museum is a font of local lore. hamlin.lib.me.us

In Norway, high ridge land that hosted family farms as far back as the 1790s is now a bucolic recreation spot known as Shepard’s Farm Preserve.

JERRY MONK M A N/ECOPHOTOGR A PHY

Shepard’s Farm Preserve, Norway: Hike or bike your way through 20 acres of preserved farmland. wfltmaine.org/ shepards-farm

VisitMaine.com

21

MAINE GUIDE Spring

PADDLE ON!

Take the plunge into New England’s ultimate whitewater rafting scene.

22

W

hitewater rafting is unlike any other adventure. The excitement of seeing waves crashing over the bow is exceeded only by the beauty of the surrounding natural landscape. The days are defined by heart-racing thrills, quiet wonder, and a camaraderie of sharing a small boat with your companions as you’re led by an experienced guide through the river rapids.

Some of the most thrilling whitewater rafting in the country can be found on the rolling waters of Maine’s mighty rivers.

Maine Spring Guide 2022

The sport got its start here after the last log drives in 1975, and in the nearly half century since, it has given rise to one of the elite whitewater rafting centers in the United States. The advantages are clear: Maine boasts more whitewater than the rest of New England and New York combined, and on account of scheduled dam releases, it’s also the only state in the Northeast with guaranteed water flows every day. That means consistent paddling from spring all the way into autumn, when foliage is at its peak.

COURTESY OF NORTH COUNTRY RI VERS

Even better, Maine’s whitewater rafting scene is a beacon of sustainable tourism, bringing visitors into less heavily trafficked regions of the state even as professional guides lead excursions designed to preserve the natural resources in these areas: Crews carry in only what they can carry out, and at resting spots paddlers maintain a light footprint on the surrounding landscape.

And eco-friendly initiatives go even further at outfitters such as New England Outdoor Center, which has LEED-certified buildings across its Millinocket campus, grows

much of its own food in summer, and aims to establish a solar array that will power all of its electricity needs.

But outfitters never lose sight of the fun to be had on Maine’s three big rivers— the Penobscot, the Kennebec, and the Dead—each with its own array of gorges, waterfalls, and rapids to navigate. The runs are as different and memorable as the surrounding North Woods through which they f low, from tight, technical sections to ambitious rapids to easy, wide, laid-back stretches.

The adrenaline kicks in as paddlers on a guided trip with North Country Rivers hit a stretch of whitewater on Maine’s Penobscot River.

VisitMaine.com

23

In addition to whitewater thrills, rafters can count on Maine’s rivers to deliver plenty of eye-popping scenery along the way.

GO WITH A PRO Professionally guided excursions, many of them led by Registered Maine Guides, offer the best and safest way to explore the state’s whitewater rafting scene. Here are some of the state’s time-tested outfitters.

Crab Apple Whitewater, The Forks: Kennebec and Dead rivers; crab applewhitewater.com

The Kennebec River

The 12 miles of paddling offered here begins on Indian Pond, and from then on, the experience encompasses a little bit of everything.

At times the river widens, allowing rafts to calmly flow with the current. But for several miles, there are challenging rapids, with Kennebec Gorge being one of the stars of the trip: Wild and lovely, it was formed some 10,000 years ago when water froze between rocks and then thawed, cracking the gorge like an egg. The resulting payoffs for paddlers are rapids, huge standing waves, and one sheer drop of 12 feet into a hole of foam. The final stretch provides excellent opportunities to swim and enjoy the scenery as you make your way to where the Kennebec intersects with the Dead River. Otherwise known as The Forks, it’s famous for not just its rafting, but also fishing and kayaking, making it one of the Northeast’s truly great river playgrounds.

The Dead River

The Northeast’s longest stretch of white­ water paddling can be found on the Dead River, whose 16 miles of rafting features

24

Maine Spring Guide 2022

nonstop whitewater. The journey begins at Grand Falls and traverses an astounding 30 different rapids, including a number of class III and IV challenges, before concluding at The Forks. Dam releases happen throughout the season, and the difficulty of the Dead is determined by the release level. In May and June in particular, higher releases are initiated, creating the strongest and most exhilarating rapids of the season.

The Penobscot River

This is widely considered Maine’s most consistently challenging river to paddle.

Years ago, for example, when naming the 15-foot wave that punctuated 400 yards of a fierce run through Ripogenus Gorge, guides dubbed it The Exterminator. But fury and heart-pounding waters aren’t the Penobscot’s only features, as the river also affords some of Maine’s finest scenery. Where else can paddlers experience the second-largest river system in New England and Maine’s highest mountain? (The Penobscot passes right by the foot of Katahdin in a section of class III-V rapids.) The sightseeing also includes abundant wildlife, even eagles and moose. Simply put, the Penobscot is the best front-row seat to Maine’s North Woods that you’re likely to find. —Ian Aldrich

Moxie Outdoor Adventures, The Forks: Kennebec and Dead rivers. moxierafting.com New England Outdoor Center, Millinocket: Upper and lower stretches of the Penobscot. neoc.com North Country Rivers, Millinocket & Bingham: Kennebec, Dead, and Penobscot. northcountryrivers.com Northeast Whitewater, Shirley Mills: Kennebec and Penobscot rivers. northeastwhitewater. com Northern Outdoors, Millinocket & The Forks: Kennebec, Dead, and Penobscot. northernoutdoors.com

COURTESY OF NEOC

Ready to hit the rapids? Here’s a snapshot of what you can expect to discover on Maine’s Big Three.

Magic Falls Rafting Co., West Forks: Kennebec and Dead rivers; magicfalls.com

MAINE GUIDE Spring

COURTESY OF A LL AGASH BREWING CO.

Plying his craft at Allagash Brewing Co., a brewer takes a sample of mash to test the pH of a beer in progress.

WE’LL DRINK TO THAT The Pine Tree State abounds in creative— and sustainable— takes on craft beer.

VisitMaine.com

25

MAINE GUIDE

above:

Allagash Brewing Co.’s headquarters on Portland’s Industrial Way. In the years since Allagash was founded here in 1995, the area has become home to a number of other craft brewers as well.

opposite:

A colorful spectrum of beers on tap at Oxbow Brewing Co., which got its start in a Newcastle farmhouse more than a decade ago.

26

I

n 1983, a Portland brewer named David Geary opened the first new brewery east of the Mississippi River since the repeal of Prohibition. His D.L. Geary Brewing Co. not only became known for its signature pale ale, but also laid the groundwork for a revolution to come decades later.

From a grand total of two Maine breweries in 1990, the number swelled during the nationwide beer craze of the 1990s and remained steady throughout the early 2000s.

When the nonprofit Maine Brewers’ Guild launched the Maine Beer Trail in 2009, the route included about 25 stops. It was challenging, though still possible, to visit them all in a single, epic journey.

But by 2014, there were 65 Maine breweries; by 2018, a staggering 122. As of early 2022, Maine is home to 165 active,

Maine Spring Guide 2022

licensed breweries, and tackling the Maine Beer Trail now requires more of chooseyour-own-adventure approach.

“Beer has just exploded,” says Sean Sullivan, the guild’s executive director.

“When people come to Maine, the top two things on their list are lobster rolls and breweries. We’ve created this new reason to come to Maine.”

Sullivan credits the growth to a reshaping of state laws a decade ago that allowed breweries to sell directly to consumers.

“Those changes made a new business model possible and allowed breweries to set up shop in unexpected places,” he says. “In Maine, where half the state doesn’t even have town names, breweries have become gathering places, social centers, a place to hang out other than the post office.”

COURTESY OF A LL AGASH BREWING CO.

Spring

WHAT’S ON TAP Here’s a quick sampling of the 100plus destinations along the Maine Beer Trail, as well as a top beer to try at each. To see all the options, go to mainebrewersguild.org.

Allagash Brewing Co., Portland: Sixteen Counties Maine-Grown Golden Ale; allagash.com Atlantic Brewing Co., Bar Harbor: Bar Harbor Blueberry Ale; atlanticbrewing.com Barreled Souls, Saco: Barton Bourbon Dark Matter Stout; barreledsouls.com

BRET L ABELLE/COURTESY OF OXBOW BREWING CO.

Bigelow Brewing Co., Skowhegan: Dementia Dog Double IPA; bigelowbrewing.com

A visit to the Maine Brewers’ Guild website—where you can customize a beer trail map and download a “passport” that earns prizes based on the number of breweries you visit—shows the possibilities that await. The epicenter of the trail can be found along the southern coast and specifically in Portland, but your journey might well include far-flung northern locations such as First Mile Brewing in Fort Kent and Northern Maine Brewing in Caribou. Or it may lead you westward toward Kennebec River Brewery in West Forks, Furbish Brewhouse in Rangeley, and Saco River Brewing in Fryeburg.

“The brewery itself has become the attraction,” Sullivan says. “It’s great for beer lovers, because they can meet the people who make the beer, they can see it and

Fluvial Brewing, Harrison: Cosmic Eclipse Peanut Butter Stout; fluvialbrewing. com

smell it being made. They get the five-senses experience.

“Following the Maine Beer Trail can take you to new parts of the state,” he continues. “Today’s breweries are familyfriendly places where you can find yourself in a conversation with a total stranger and it feels totally normal. Once you’re there, they are the perfect resource to find out where else you should visit.”

In many ways, a celebration of place is at the core of this craft brewing resurgence— whether it be the beauty of the location itself, like Marshall Wharf’s waterfront perch in Belfast, or the environmental consciousness of companies such as Portland’s Allagash Brewing, the state’s first certified B Corp brewery, whose initiatives include using solar power, sidestreaming nearly 100 percent of its waste, and brewing with one million pounds of locally grown grain annually.

Celebration of place isn’t the only way brewers look to differentiate themselves, of course. Banded Brewing’s Biddeford location features pinball machines and a video arcade. At Definitive Brewing in Portland, they use their double-fruited sour as a base for soft-serve beer ice cream.

“It’s such a great and creative time. There is so much innovation and energy,” Sullivan says. “For a long time, Maine tourism was about B&B’s and lighthouses, and that’s great for what it is—but we’ve got a new story to tell, too.” —Joe Bills

Marsh Island Brewing, Orono: Pulp Truck IPA; marsh islandbrewing.com Northern Maine Brewing Co., Caribou: Skidder Grease Stout. northernmaine brewingcompany.com Oxbow Brewing Co., Newcastle, Oxford & Portland: Barrel-Aged Farmhouse Pale Ale. oxbowbeer.com

VisitMaine.com

27

MAINE GUIDE Spring

EDITORS’ PICKS Planning a getaway to Maine this spring?

Check out these ideas from Yankee on where to play, eat, and stay.

Baxter State Park, Millinocket To experience northern Maine’s most spectacular chunk of wilderness, this is the place. Crowned

by Katahdin, Maine’s highest peak and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, and edged by the Penobscot River, “forever wild” Baxter welcomes hikers, wildlife-watchers, paddlers, and outdoors lovers (but be sure to leave the motorcycles, RVs, and ATVs behind). baxterstatepark.org Children’s Museum & Theatre of Maine, Portland Enter an enthralling world where learning is carefully and colorfully disguised as play. Since relocating to a new threestory, 30,000-square-foot home on Thompson’s Point in 2021, this handson museum and its children’s theater have wowed infants to teens

28

Maine Spring Guide 2022

with distinctly Maine attractions (yes, kids still love captaining a lobster boat) and all-new arts and STEM exhibits that encourage them to dress up, create, get wet, touch water creatures, and even step into Mainer Ashley Bryan’s Beautiful Blackbird storybook. kitetails.org Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, Boothbay New England’s largest botanical garden encompasses 300plus shorefront acres, including ornamental display gardens and more than 91,000 plants all told. Among the highlights: a rhododendron oasis with a waterfall, a woodland fairy-house village, and a peaceful meditation garden. Trails lace the woodlands and hillsides as well as drop down along the tidal Back River. mainegardens.org

Currier’s Flying Service, Greenville In a region made famous by its bush pilot culture, the late Roger Currier was one of the legends.

Today, his family continues the business Currier founded, now with his chief protégé, Roger Paradise, at the helm. You’ve never seen the Moosehead region like this before. The big lake, surrounding waters, and some of Maine’s popular peaks (that’s Katahdin in the distance) all come into focus as you ride the air in one of Currier’s rare and beautifully restored Cessnas. curriersflyingservice.com Farnsworth Art Museum, Rockland There may be no more fitting setting in which to view the works of three generations of Wyeths—N.C., Andrew, and Jamie—than this handsome and airy

JIM DUGA N/COURTESY OF THE FA RNSWORTH A RT MUSEU M

PLAY

Farnsworth Art Museum, Rockland

VisitMaine.com

29

MAINE GUIDE Spring

Fort Knox/Penobscot Narrows Bridge & Observatory, Prospect Along with exploring a sprawling granite fort that’s one of the best-preserved military fortifications on the New England coast, visitors can also head up to the

30

Maine Spring Guide 2022

world’s tallest bridge observatory to revel in stunning views from Katahdin to Cadillac. fortknoxmaine.com The Katahdin, Greenville History and wilderness beauty converge during a cruise on the 1914 steamboat Katahdin, which once towed tons of logs across New England’s second-largest lake, Moosehead, during the spring log drives that fueled Maine’s forest economy. Hailed as the last steamboat on Moosehead (though long since converted to diesel), the Kate takes you past islands and vistas of the North Woods you won’t

see any other way. katahdincruises.com Lucky Catch Cruises, Portland You’ll be the entertaining one at every clambake once you’ve pitched in on a working lobster boat. Don a rubber apron and gloves; bait and haul traps; learn how to tell males from females and keepers from throwbacks. Depending on the tour, Captain Tom Martin or a crewmate will also show you Casco Bay’s lighthouses or a colony of harbor seals.

Purchase “bugs” off the boat, and Portland Lobster Company will steam them when you return to the pier. luckycatch.com

Maine Maritime Museum, Bath Flying along Route 1 at 50 mph, it’s easy to forget that the sea was the original highway when ships carried freight and passengers.

Be reminded at this engaging museum, which offers everything from boat exhibits to paintings of regal ships scudding before the wind to workshops where you can see boats being built today. maine maritimemuseum.org Maine Mineral & Gem Museum, Bethel This recently unveiled 15,000-square-foot museum has fast

ISA AC CR ABTREE

MidCoast museum.

Since the 1920s, Maine has inspired their art, while they, in turn, have inspired art lovers around the world. Though the museum’s entire 15,000work collection is reason enough to visit, locals often call it “the Wyeth museum” because of its close ties to the family. The name fits. farnsworthmuseum.org

from left:

The Katahdin, Greenville; Maine Wildlife Park, Gray

miles of nature trails. Two favorites are the Coastal Trail, where hikers stand high above surging Fundy tides and look across to New Brunswick’s Grand Manan Island, and the short Bog Trail, a raised boardwalk that offers a close-up look at pitcher plants and other unusual bog vegetation. westquoddy.com

EMILY M ACCABE/ MDIFW

EAT & DRINK

established itself as one of Maine’s most fascinating attractions.

At the core of its treasures dug out of the earth is the Perham Collection, accumulated by a century-old Maine rock shop. Here you will also discover a world-class display of extraterrestrial minerals, including a 32-pound rock from Mars; an array of meteorites, and the five largest pieces of the moon to be found anywhere this side of, well, the moon. maine mineralmuseum.org Maine Wildlife Park, Gray It’s hard to know whether to look first at the majestic moose

browsing on alders or the playful black bears splashing around their water feature. At this state-run sanctuary for animals unable to live in the wild, you might count as many as 30 species, most native to the Maine woods, in one afternoon. maine.gov/ifw West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, Lubec Location, location … and no location in the U.S. lies farther east than West Quoddy Head, whose distinctive redstriped lighthouse stands against the foggy Bay of Fundy. The beacon is the focal point of Quoddy Head State Park, laced with over six

Bob’s Clam Hut, Kittery Founded in 1956, Bob’s has been a must-stop on car trips to Maine, and with good reason. This year-round clam shack offers up all the right stuff (clam strips, chowder, scallops, etc.), and built its fame on two styles of fried clams: “Bob’s,” which are dipped in a mix of unseasoned flours and fried to light crispness, and “Lillian’s,” which make two passes through the flours with an egg wash in between, creating a crunchier clam. bobsclamhut.com Congdon’s Doughnuts, Wells Patrons have lined up out the door of this mom-and-pop shop for Maine blueberry–dotted doughnuts and more since 1955. It’s located a quick drive from the beaches, and somehow these light and airy treats taste best with a backdrop of surf and sand. Congdon’s After Dark hosts community food-truck nights in the

parking lot from late May into fall, with a beer garden pouring Maine brews. congdons.com Dolly’s, Frenchville Ask anyone where to get an authentic taste of Aroostook County’s St. Jean Valley, and you’ll be directed here to order ployes, an Acadian buckwheat pancake, along with creton, a pork spread. Don’t miss the chicken stew, either.

Facebook Eventide Oyster Co., Portland Here is a restaurant that serves intelligent, just-imaginative-enough, and tasty interpretations of classic New England seafood like lobster rolls, chowder, and fried fish that has earned it a national reputation.

The idea is so simple and winning that you have to wonder why anyone didn’t think of it before—or at least didn’t execute it so well. eventideoysterco.com The Fiddlehead Restaurant, Bangor From spring’s first asparagus to autumn’s bounty of pumpkins and squashes, it helps to have your own farm if you run a restaurant serving farm-to-fork cuisine—and chef Mel Chaiken does. Meats, seafood, and cheeses come largely from Maine farms, fishermen, and cheese makers. Raised in Japan, Chaiken

VisitMaine.com

31

MAINE GUIDE

clockwise from left: Eventide Oyster Co., Portland; McLoons Lobster Shack, South Thomaston; Congdon’s Doughnuts, Wells

32

Maine Spring Guide 2022

CA RL TREMBL AY ( MCLOONS); M A RK FLEMING (EVENTIDE); COURTESY OF CONGDON’S DOUGHNUTS

Spring

brings some innovative Asian treatments to otherwise recognizably New England food. thefiddlehead restaurant.com Le Mu Eats, Bethel Word of mouth from hungry Sunday River skiers and foodies alike has propelled this Laotian-Southern hybrid from humble beginnings in 2018—as a little blue takeout shack next to Steam Mill Brewing—to a sit-down restaurant of its very own, opened late last year. The cult-favorite Angry Rooster sandwich (fried chicken with chili aioli) and superlative banh mi are still there, alongside elevated, dinein-only new offerings. my-site-le-mu.square.site Long Grain, Camden From the steamed mussels in coconutlemongrass broth to the hearty drunken noodles, aka pad kemao, every option at this intimate, down-to-earth panAsian restaurant is fresh, perfectly spiced, and masterfully prepared.

Factor in Long Grain’s new sister eatery, the eclectic and laid-back BOWA, and it looks like Camden visitors are in for a tasty summer indeed. longgraincamden.com McLoons Lobster Shack, South Thomaston When people all over the world dream of eating Maine lobster on the

coast, they probably imagine themselves in a place like this redclapboard waterfront shack. The surroundings are quintessential MidCoast Maine, right down to rocky Spruce Head Island, where the seafood shack and its parent commercial lobster wharf sit. The simple lobster salad roll at McLoons is the best we’ve had anywhere in the state. mcloonslobster.com Mount Desert Island Ice Cream, Bar Harbor & Portland Crazy-rich, crazy-good, just-plain-crazy flavors.

MDI makes its indulgent ice creams and sorbets in small batches, and it’s hard to say which are more creative, the names or the ingredients. Among past offerings: Girl Scouts Gone Wild, Chocolate Wasabi, and Uncle Marshall’s Fruitcake.

Aside from its Maine locations, there are shops in Washington, D.C., and Japan. mdiic.com Simones’, Lewiston Loyalists here are split between ordering their hot dogs grilled or steamed, but in either case they’ll get a classic Maine red snapper—a beef and pork frank in a natural casing that “snaps” when bitten.

The family business launched in 1908 on the other side of Chestnut Street but moved into its current quarters in 1966.

With the next generation

already in the kitchen, Simones’ is well on the way to another century of service. Facebook

STAY Attean Lake Lodge, Jackman From the time your boat captain deposits you at this island outpost, where vacationers have retreated since 1893, your agenda will be far from ordinary. Paddle to uninhabited isles, hook a salmon, pick blueberries on a mountaintop, hike crowd-free trails, put more than one lobster on your plate, bonfiretoast marshmallows, and snuggle up in your gaslamp-lit cottage to read until loons’ calls induce sleep. atteanlodge.com Chebeague Island Inn, Chebeague Island Here is a century-old inn that embodies everything one desires in an island escape: a strikingly lovely porch facing west to the bay; dinners that become island-wide events for tasting and socializing; easy access to tennis courts and a nine-hole golf course; and free use of bicycles to roam the 3.5-mile-long island. chebeagueislandinn.com The Dunes on the Waterfront, Ogunquit The aptly named Dunes, a collection of housekeeping cottages and guest rooms, features 12 landscaped acres bordering an

Ogunquit tidal estuary.

Rowboats waiting at the dock make it a cinch to access the beach, but the Dunes’ heated pool is equally inviting. To this, add in a knowledgeable, helpful staff and a location that puts all the downtown attractions within easy strolling distance. dunes onthewaterfront.com Hermit Island Campground, Phippsburg Located on a private island, this family-owned 271-site campground has been luring oceanloving campers since 1952. If you crave a water view, check the map and try to book one of the Ocean Prime sites. Even if you’re bunking down in the forest, though, it’s an easy walk to the water to swim, sail, kayak, and fish. hermitisland.com Inn by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth Handsome rooms, suites, and cottages shelter guests at this ecofriendly seaside resort with an outdoor saltwater pool, a restaurant and lounge with indoor and outdoor seating, and a boutique spa. A boardwalk through a New England cottontail rabbit preserve links the ultragreen, dogand family-friendly property with dunebacked Crescent Beach. innbythesea.com The Island Inn, Monhegan Island It’s hard to imagine a

VisitMaine.com

33

Little Lyford Lodge & Cabins, Greenville

face waiting for you.

Since 1992, musician and retired teacher Greg Noyes has been welcoming guests to his cozy 1887 Victorian B&B, whose common areas and four guest rooms are filled with fine antiques and family treasures. It’s located just one block off the water and two blocks from downtown, and can be a handy base for daytrips to iconic attractions such as Campobello Island, the Roosevelt family’s summer retreat. kilbyhouseinn.com

Kilby House Inn, Eastport If you’re traveling to the ends of the earth— or in this case, the easternmost city in the U.S.—it’s good to know there’s a friendly

Little Lyford Lodge & Cabins, Greenville Originally a logging camp from the 1870s, Little Lyford is now owned by the Appalachian Mountain Club as an off-the-grid

34

Maine Spring Guide 2022

retreat. The property borders 66,000 acres of conserved land and includes access to the Appalachian Trail and Gulf Hagas, a gorge known for its waterfalls. It’s all yours to explore when you book a stay at one of the 10 private cabins or in the bunkhouse. outdoors.org Searsport Shores, Searsport “Located right on Route 1 … no windy dirt roads, no tight turns”—could anything be more musical to the ears of weary rig drivers? But easy access is just the opener in this 40-acre campground’s bid for your affections. It ups the ante with 125 RV/tent sites, trailer and cabin rentals, kayak rentals, nature trails, lobster

bakes, a quarter mile of private beach, and a small friendly flock of sheep and goats. maine oceancamping.com Seguin Tree Dwellings, Georgetown There’s a natural lettinggo that occurs on this 21-acre Maine island hilltop. Choose one of three tiny houses in the trees, built with salvaged materials and spruced up in warm, minimalist, Scandinavian style, to begin your reorientation toward what constitutes a truly good life. It’s easy to bid farewell to external pressures and mundane concerns as you gaze through a windowed wall at the winding Black River and conservation lands beyond. seguinmaine. com

COURTESY OF A PPA L ACHI A N MOUNTA IN CLUB

dreamier place in which to forget the world exists than the Island Inn. Commanding a bluff overlooking Monhegan Harbor and Manana Island, the three-story, cupola-topped inn is filled with simply decorated rooms (with private or shared baths) outfitted with painted wooden floors, antique oak furnishings, and crisp white linens. Suites are also available in the charming Pierce Cottage next door. islandinnmonhegan.com

LADIES FIRST

MAINE GUIDE Spring

A salute to outdoor icon “Fly Rod Crosby,” who led the way for generations of Maine Guides.

COLLECTIONS OF THE M A INE STATE MUSEU M

W

hen Maine passed an 1897 bill requiring hunting guides to register with the state, the very first license went to a most appropriate applicant: Cornelia Thurza “Fly Rod” Crosby, a 43-year-old sportswoman and journalist whose natural flair for public relations had helped establish western and northern Maine as a major outdoor sports destination.

Born in Phillips, Crosby grew up to become an angler of almost mythic proportions; close friends had coined her nickname on account of her prowess with a fishing rod. An early proponent of catch and release, she reportedly caught 52 trout in less than an hour in the summer of 1891.

Two years later, she landed 2,500 fish over the course of the season, including 200 in a single day.

Thanks in large part to Crosby’s writings, Registered Maine Guides became revered for their uncanny ability to lead anglers to fish. Her descriptive accounts of fishing adventures, in the Rangeley area in particular, were published in the biggest city papers; she also wrote regularly for Field & Stream and was one of the celebrated guests at the New York Sportsmen’s Exposition at Madison Square Garden in 1895 and 1896.

“I would rather fish any day,” Crosby once said, “than go to heaven.”

It’s a sentiment any Registered Maine Guide would understand—along with the generations of anglers who have found their own kind of paradise amid Maine’s legendary woods and waters. —Ian Aldrich

“Fly Rod” Crosby, photographed by fellow Maine native Edwin Starbird at his studio c. 1890.

VisitMaine.com

35