The Y' Yachting Itineraries 2019 - by Estela Superyacht Agency

ULTIMATE YACHTING LIFESTYLE Since 2005, the success of our team has been built on pride, passion, professionalism and commitment to delivering the optimum service in large yacht SALES, CHARTER, NEW BUILD and MANAGEMENT

C l u b d e M a r, P a l m a d e M a ll o rc a , 0701 5 S p a i n Te l : +3 4 87 1 1 5 0 4 3 9 e n q u i r i e s @ o c ya c ht s . co m CHARTER

SA L E S

M A N AG E M E N T

BUILD

Z Ü R I C H | AT H E N S | AU C K L A N D | D U B A I | D Ü S S E L D O R F | FO R T L AU D E R DA L E | F R E N C H R I V I E R A G E N E VA | LO N D O N | H O N G KO N G | M A LTA | M O N ACO | M U M B A I | PA L M A | S U S S E X O C E A N I N D E P E N D E N C E .CO M

T H E A L L- N E W P R I N C E S S R 3 5 E X P E R I E N C E T H E E X C E P T I O N A L®

P R I N C E S S YAC H T S . C O M

welcome

W

5

elcome to ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ 2019/20, the annual on-board travel guide for yacht owners, guests, captains and crew.

‘The Y’ is about destinations to visit by yacht and things to see and do when you get there. We try to inform, entertain and maybe inspire you to visit places new, or return to some that you may not have visited for a while.

Our feature destination this time is Rome and Italy’s Tyrrhenian coast, inspired by the world’s first superyacht owner, Emperor Caligula. We travel to Capri, where Caligula’s predecessor, Tiberius, liked to fling subjects to their death from its highest peak. We explore islands in the Gulf of Naples, the Amalfi coast and Tuscany.

In Sardinia, we try to tempt you away from the Costa Smeralda to see what else this paradise island has to offer, such as hunting.

Heading west In the Balearics, Mallorca offers world class stalking, Menorca is equestrian heaven, while Ibiza and Formentera have glorious beaches and diving.

In the Caribbean, we drop down this time to Guadeloupe, regarded by Jacques Cousteau as one of the world’s very best diving locations.

We introduce Melilla, which will feature among next year’s North African destinations. Our 2020 itineraries are already on the drawing board, so if you want to work with us to incorporate your destination or facility in the guide, get in touch.

Last but not least, we want to see where ‘The Y’ travels to after we deliver her on board. Check out our photo competition (page 309), and find out how you can win dinner for two at Sublimotion in Ibiza in 2020. A prize worth €3300!

We hope you enjoy reading ‘The Y’ 2019/20. Your feedback is appreciated, and should you find yourself in Mallorca or Barcelona, why not say hello? ¡Hasta luego!

James van Bregt Editor

6

italy contents

GULF OF NAPLES

96

12

The world’s first superyacht owner We lift the mystery on Emperor Caligula’s two 70-metre luxury barges on a lake half the size of Central Park.

16

Where streets really are paved with gold For first-timers or return visitors to Rome, we suggest some things to do and see in this incredible city, whether you have a day or longer.

68

The emperors’ bolthole Exploring the charming region of Castelli Romani, where Rome’s elite built their weekend villas 2,000 years ago.

72

Islands, islands, islands Discover alternative pursuits to beach-bumming or shopping in Sardinia and find out on which island Beyoncé and Jay Z escape the paparazzi. We visit Ventotene, Ischia, Procida and where the paparazzi are a sure thing, Capri.

contents

7

ROME

16

72

SARDINIA

96

When life gives you lemons… …You must be in Amalfi.

Pop into Pompeii before relaxing in Positano and discover what that mystery cocktail, the l’Arbertissimo, is all about. We follow in Wagner’s footsteps to Ravello, hike to the finest dining view in the Med, and visit Atrani, Minori and Maiori.

BALEARICS

178

antigua

254

8

italy contents

142

pompeii

Tuscan jewels Artisan shopping, culture Tuscan jewels and Tuscan air, you’ll find it in Florence, Lucca and Pisa. Secret gourmet bargains in Viareggio and why today’s well-heeled Roman weekenders escape to Argentario.

118

178 tuscany

142

captains’ support

276

nemi’s ships

316

Our Balearic backyard Mallorca, our home, continues to offer the best facilities and activities in the Mediterranean.

Our guide to Ibiza’s 40 beaches and coves reveals the best, while Menorca’s horse-fest gives Pamplona a run for its money.

254

Follow in the most famous frogman’s wake Winter in the Caribbean means Antigua, but we also cruise to Guadeloupe, for a selfie with Jacques Cousteau in his coral garden. Find out what else is fantastique about the EU’s westernmost outpost.

276

Important information Rules and regulations, do’s and don’ts, marinas, useful phone numbers and resources.

contents

309

Competition Win dinner for two at Sublimotion, the world’s most expensive restaurant!

314

2019/20 World Diary See what regattas and boat shows are coming up this year and next.

316

The Nemi Ships The luxury Roman barges that never sailed anywhere. What’s that about?

322

Meet the Estela Team We’re here to support every stage of your journey, performing minor miracles every day.

330

Sublimotion A multisensory gastronomic experience in Ibiza.

334

See ya’ in Melilla Want to see where we’re going next year? This Spanish city on the Moroccan coast is our inspiration for a North African itinerary in 2020.

9

266

guadeloupe

314

events & regattas

calendar

322 330

about estela

sublimotion

VIP TRANSFERS Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

We offer a luxury fleet which can be tailored to meet all your travel requirements and individual needs

contents

index of partners & advertisers Alcaidesa Marina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Anchor Concierge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Antigua Yacht Club Marina. . . . 256-257 Aquatica Marina Alghero. . . . . . . . . . . 80 Argentario Yachts Services. . . . . . . . 146 Arpeca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174-175 Astilleros de Mallorca. . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Authority Port of Melilla. . . . . . 334-335 Azimouthio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Bianco Café. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Bluewater. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Bunker Vibo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Burgess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176-177 Casino de Mallorca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Cassano Carburanti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Club de Vela Puerto de Andratx. . . . 213 Coral Marine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Facom Gas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Falmouth Harbour Marina. . . . . . . . . 260 Farmacia Progrés. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 First Bunker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Fronda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Galeria-K. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Heart Ibiza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222-223 Ibiza Magna Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 IMS Medical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Incargo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 IPM Group - Palma Marinas. . . . . . . 199 Liberty Yachting Agency. . . . . . . . . . 293 Lürssen Yachts Marina Carmelo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Marina di Olbia Yachting Svcs . . . . . . 81 Marina Ibiza IPM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

Marina Tramontana Pt de Soller . . . 214 Marina Vela Barcelona. . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Museo Es Baluard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Nauti Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236-237 Nobiskrug. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Nuevo Pueblo Español . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ocean Independence Port Adriano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Port Adriano Events. . . . . . . . . . 220-221 Port of Seville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Port Tarraco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250-251 Porto Mirabello. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Princess Yachts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-3 Puerto Portals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Ryacht VIP Assistance . . . . . . . . . . 92-93 Sacomar Yacht. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Sea Shepherd Global. . . . . . . . . . 230-231 Seastar Shipping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Serviport Balear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 STP Shipyard Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Sublimotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332-333 Teatre Principal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Termopetroli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Transfer Class. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Undercover Solutions. . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Urban Ape Palma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Vannucci Maritime Group. . . . . . . . . 157 Wine Spot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Yerbabuena. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 To advertise with us or partner in our events, get in touch. +34 971 722 532 Email: palma@estelashipping.net

11

12

estela·shipping italy

the·theme

Caligula: the first superyacht owner

G

oing to Rome in this edition of ‘The Y’ Yachting Itineraries, our research to find a yachting connection to the Roman empire brought up a remarkable piece of ancient history, which continues to unfold today.

Rome’s third Emperor, Caligula, was the world’s very first superyacht owner.

Before his rise to power in 37AD, the largest known barges up to that point had been Egyptian. These barges carried the many Egyptian obelisks destined for the Eternal City that still stand there.

Biography • Full name: Gaius Julius Caesar Augustus Germanicus • Other titles: Pontifex Maximus, Pater Patriae • Born: Anzio, August 31, 12 AD • Died: Rome, January 24, 41 AD • Spouse: Junia Claudia (33-­37), Livia Orestilla (37-­38 ), Lollia Paulina (38-­39), Milonia Caesonia (39-­41) • Children: Julia Drusilla • Father: Gaius Julius Caesar Germanicus Claudian • Mother: Agrippina the elder • Reign: 37­-41 AD However, the ‘superyachts’ this young emperor commissioned never took to the seas. They remained on lake Nemi, covering roughly half the size of New York’s Central Park.

But why? It is a mystery that historians and archaeologists continue to examine 2,000 years later.

The nickname, meaning ‘little boots’, stuck when as a three-year old boy he was brought along to the military frontline by his father, Germánico, wearing soldier’s uniform, complete with tiny army boots.

He rose to the throne upon the death of Tiberius and proved extremely popular, as he increased public spending in his first months in power. Wars ceased and Rome became the cultural centre of the empire. Cultural exchanges across the empire were stimulated, effectively inventing ‘fashion’. He also emptied the treasury in just one year.

Public adulation didn’t last long.

Needing to raise money, he confiscated assets from the wealthiest and put his name among the heirs in their wills, subsequently inheriting after having them killed. Taxes were raised on everything from food to prostitution, turning his palace into a brothel and sending his servants out to find customers.

13

14

nemi’s·ships

Caligula, the man

A

fter seven months as Emperor, he contracted an illness from which he emerged a deranged and sadistic monster. Or, at least, so the history books based on accounts by the historian of the time, Suetonius, would have us believe.

Madness

Sex

Historians have written that Caligula demanded to be worshipped as a living god, humiliated senators by making them run in front of his chariot and wanted to make his favourite horse, Incitatus, a consul. He was pale and hairy and made it a capital offence to speak of goats in his presence.

Enemies were tortured and killed, of course.

Caligula revelled in decadence and it is his debauchery for which he is most renowned.

Many readers of a certain vintage will have first learned of Caligula from that 1979 movie. Produced by men’s magazine Penthouse, ‘Caligula’ was an ‘erotic historical drama’, starring Malcolm McDowell, Helen Mirren, Peter O’Toole, and John Gielgud, no less. The movie was disowned by its stars after it was considerably ‘sexed up’

“Oderint dum metuant”, he would say, ‘let them hate, as long as they fear.’

Discover the truth about Caligula and the Nemi’s ships story at pag 316

the·theme

15

‘Bunga Bunga’

Nemi ship’s bronze

The Nemi ships are sometimes referred to as ‘party boats’, as they were thought to have been where the emperor’s legendary orgies took place. But why would anyone go to such lengths to build such enormous vessels on a small, landlocked body of water? The answer probably lies in the desire for fertility.

Caligula’s upbringing was unique, in that he grew up in an Egyptian household where he learned about communal families. In Caligula’s mind, it was nothing more than practical to hold mass impregnation rites, to ensure that all fertile women would fall pregnant simultaneously, ensuring that expectant mothers would still be able to work the harvest.

in post production, turning it into little more than a soft porn film.

Caligula was reported to have had brazen affairs with the wives of his And where better than to stage this early forerunner allies and was alleged of the ‘bunga bunga’ party? In a temple on the very to have had incestuous lake of the goddess of fertility, of course. relationships with his sisters. Biographies of his peers and family around this time seem to disprove incest, but let’s not let the facts get in the way of a salacious rumour.

Caligula may have had a legendary sexual appetite, but he was an innovator and, some would say, a visionary who has been misunderstood.

Credit: Carlo Cestra Digital Productions

“Omnes viae Romam ducunt”

18

italy

J

lazio

rome

lazio

ust 30km inland, the Eternal City is the perfect superyacht destination as part of any western Italian itinerary.

Cosmopolitan, steeped in culture, a gourmet’s dream and a shopping nirvana, Rome is arguably the finest city on Earth.

‘Caput Mundi’ (Capital of the World) boasts more historical treasures and cultural riches than anywhere else on the planet.

Even if Rome’s ancient architecture or the arts don’t entice you, the birthplace of la dolce vita offers plenty for those who prefer il dolce far niente, the art of doing sweet nothing. Whether it’s shopping, strolling, eating and drinking, there is no more atmospheric place to linger than this magnificent city.

It was dubbed the ‘Eternal City’ by ancient Romans,

in the firm belief that Rome would endure no matter what the future held. Today, more than two thousand years on, many of its origins remain visible, as testament to the most glorious empire ever created.

How to get there Moor at Porto Turistico, at the mouth of the River Tiber near Fiumicino, where the marina is conveniently located only ten minutes’ drive from Rome’s main international (Leonardo da Vinci) airport, and a 35-minute drive into the city.

To avoid the traffic into the city entirely, you could, of course, take the on-board helicopter to Vatican City or the centre of Rome. Mere mortals can ride the lessglamorous metro from Ostia Antica directly into town, taking 45 minutes.

Further away, along the coast north of Rome, lies Civitavecchia, the city’s original port. This ancient port was planned in 106 BC and designed by grand architect Apollodorus of Damascus, at the behest of emperor Trajan.

Civitavecchia was created as an important trading hub for the empire and while much of its historic port remains intact, today

HOw·to·get·there

19

Beach of Anzio it is mostly a stop-off point for cruise ships. The drive from here into Rome takes some 75 minutes.

Equidistant to the south lies Anzio, Caligula’s birthplace, but more famous in modern history as the site of a crucial landing by Western Allies during WWII, as depicted in the 1968 movie ‘Anzio!’, starring Robert Mitchum and Peter Falk.

Map data ©2019 Google

20

italy

In Roman times, ‘Antium’ was a popular retreat away from the city, where the philosopher Cicero founded his library and where many of Rome’s elite had private coastal villas.

Emperor Nero was also born here and the town thrived after he commisioned the port and later built the grand ‘Villa di Nerone’, the imperial villa used by all subsequent emperors.

Tip: As the coastline between Anzio and Civitavecchia is the least appealing aspect of this region, guests may prefer to disembark at one port and re-embark at the other, following their visit to Rome.

lazio

ostia·antica

21

O

ostia·antica

ften overlooked by visitors who flock to Rome by air, Ostia Antica is must-see, particularly if the yacht is moored nearby. A former bustling town with 60,000 inhabitants, Ostia was founded in 620 BC and became Rome’s primary commercial sea port and naval base in 400 BC. Its salt beds were used in meat preservation, though after the fall of Rome, as it flooded to become swamp land,

these were instrumental in preserving the town’s remains, which rival Pompeii for quality.

Many BC remnants of the city remain, with excavations ongoing and continuing to uncover fascinating detail of Roman life. Beautiful black and white mosaics are all around, including a pool floor featuring Neptune riding a chariot through the sea. Grain was Ostia’s main import and it was famous for its bread, while oils and wine passed through, stored in large buried urns that remain today. Imports would be stored here before being sent to Rome.

The small, local museum houses a collection of beautiful second- or thirdcentury Roman copies of Greek original busts and marbles, and is worth a visit, with many cupids and gods on display, as well as some interesting local citizens.

22

italy

T

lazio

civitavecchia

Civitavecchia

he official ‘Port of Rome’ may lack the charm and architectural remains like those found in Ostia and Anzio, though its history is no less colourful. On the face of it, Civitavecchia today is just a major terminus for cruise ships and commercial shipping, though its port was designed by Leonardo da Vinci, as documented in drawings in the Codex Atlanticus. At the entrance to the port is Fort Michelangelo (also ‘Fortress Giulia’), built on the orders of Pope Sixtus V in the 16th century, in order to fortify the home of the papal fleet.

The city started life as an Etruscan settlement before emperor Trajan constructed the large port around its rocky inlets in 106 AD. Named ‘Centumcellae’, the port city thrived during the Roman empire’s heyday, before falling under the Byzantine Empire and then the papacy from 700 AD, which covered swathes of what is now Italy and a slice of France.

Civitavecchia was heavily bombed by Allied Forces in WWII, though thankfully many of its ancient monuments and churches survived intact.

A stroll around the town

should include Piazza Leandra and the small Church of the Star (1688), from where you can walk through a ninth century ‘archetto’, a small passage leading to the quaintlynamed ‘Church of Death’ in Piazza Aurelio Saffi.

23

Castello di Santa Severa

Having undergone various modifications, the castle Twenty minutes by car stands on the site of a 5th south of Civitavecchia century church dedicated lies the castle of Santa to Severa, remains Severa, dating from the of which have been 14th century. Considered unearthed only in recent to be of great historical years, as well as artefacts and cultural significance, from the Bronze Age. It the castle was built on was a refuge for Roman the site where the young noblemen and a number Christian martyr, Severa, of popes before Sixtus IV was killed in 298 AD in the donated it to the Order of Etruscan city of Pyrgi. She the Holy Spirit in 1482. perished here with her brothers Calendino and Having fallen into decay Marco, during the reign over hundreds of years of emperor Diocletian. and even served a stint as

a strategic military holdup for the German army in 1943, the castle has now been revamped by the local authority into a thriving cultural centre.

A visit to the Maritime and Ancient Navigation Museum is recommended, where you will see a slice of the Etruscan history of Pyrgi. The museum, one of five here, also features the remains of Etruscan and Roman ships discovered not far from the coast.

24

italy

lazio

tarquinia

Tarquinia Another site of great significance, 20 minutes north of Civitavecchia, is Tarquinia, until 1922 known as Corneto.

The cradle of Etruscan civilisation, Tarquinia is a lovely medieval town full of fascinating architecture and historical features.

However, the greatest attraction here is the Necropolis of Monterozzi. colourful scenes of funeral banquets, dancers, musicians and jugglers, This UNESCO World dating back to the 7th Heritage site contains century BC. more than two hundred tombs, with well-preserved Also worth a stop is or restored frescoes providing an important the National Etruscan Museum of Tarquinia, insight into Etruscan life. The paintings depict located inside Palazzo

Vitelleschi. Built by Cardinal Giovanni Vitelleschi in 1436, the palazzo itself is a typical example of Renaissance architecture and now houses the largest collection of Estruscan remains, recovered in the region.

25

A

12th century French proverb first mused that Rome wasn’t built in a day, though it is possible to breeze through its most famous landmarks in one day, if you really must.

However, Rome is worth taking your time over, for two or even three days (in which case, see our guide to the best hotels).

The dome of Saint Peters Basilica seen through the famous keyhole at the the gate of the Priory of the Knights of Malta.

26

italy

I

lazio

vatican·city

f you haven’t visited before, be warned that the Vatican complex is huge and in order to ensure you see the best artworks and features, it’s advisable to book an early-access tour with an art history expert. These tours start an hour before opening to the general public, at 08:00hrs.

Highlights include Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling masterpiece, commissioned by Pope Julius II, completed over four years and unveiled to the public in 1512.

The museums are packed with world-famous works, though the Raphael Rooms and the 1932 Bramante-inspired spiral staircase are particularly noteworthy, with the latter located inside the gift shop.

The original double helix staircase, by Donato Bramante in 1505, is located

in the Pio-Clementine Museum and is open only to guided tours. It was designed as a gently graded ramp to enable Pope Julius II to go up by horse-drawn carriage to his private apartments.

Another must is a visit to St Peter’s Basilica (closed Wednesdays). The 551step climb to the top of the dome, standing at 136

vatican·city

27

metres tall, is an arduous trek up a narrow, spiral staircase, but the view is worth it.

Laid out in front of you is St Peter’s Square, where you may catch a glimpse of the pope for his General Audience on Wednesdays (free tickets required) or on Sundays, at noon (no ticket required). For details about tickets and scheduled appearances, check the website: www.papalaudience.org

28

italy

lazio

vatican·city

Enter via Città del Vaticano, in Viale Vaticano, at the top of the map.

Tip: Don’t even think of visiting attractions such as the Colosseum, Pantheon and Vatican Museums without prior reservations. Have your butler or yacht agent arrange frictionless entry in advance.

It is closed on Wednesdays.

To avoid Rome’s extreme heat and the hordes, steer clear of the peak summer months.

S

etting off from the Vatican towards the city centre across the river Tiber to the east, you could stop by Castel Sant’Angelo.

Originally commissioned by emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum, it has been used as a papal fortress and a prison, but is now a museum.

The adjacent Ponte Sant’ Angelo is one of the most beautiful bridges in Rome, which was also the scene of Audrey Hepburn’s famous guitarsmashing scene in ‘Roman Holiday’.

29

ITINERARY PLANNING Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

30

italy

lazio

Spanish Steps

S

pring is the best time to see the world-famous ’Spanish Steps’, named after the nearby Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, lined with blooming azaleas.

Climbing up to the Trinità dei Monti church at the top gives a lovely view of Piazza di Spagna beneath, featuring the ‘Fontana della Barcaccia’, one of several striking Roman works by sculptors Pietro Bernini and his son, Gian Lorenzo.

One of many papal commissions, the fountain is shaped like a boat to commemorate a flooding in 1598, when the Tiber broke its banks and swept a boat to this spot.

From the top of the staircase, if you turn left up the hill, you will arrive at Villa Medici. Once home to the Tuscan grand duke, Ferdinando de’ Medici, Napoleon acquired it in 1801 for the French Academy, whose home it remains to this day.

Its outbuildings are now made available to French artists and scholars, though its most famous resident once was the physicist and astronomer, Galileo, held here between 1630 and 1633 during his trial for having ‘heretic thoughts’.

In taking this walk, you will be

rome

greatest·hits

retracing the steps of the young English poet, John Keats, who had taken up residency in the house immediately to the right of the Spanish Steps, at Piazza di Spagna 26. Before succumbing to tuberculosis in 1821, Keats lived in what is now Keats-Shelley Memorial House, taking regular walks along here with his artist friend, Joseph Severn, often accompanied by Pauline Borghese, Napoleon’s sister.

The small museum is an essential stop for lovers of second generation English Romantic poetry, having been home not only to Keats, but to PB Shelley, Mary Shelley and Lord Byron, among others. Aside from beautifully-maintained rooms and artefacts, its library of Romantic literature numbers more than 8,000 volumes.

Fashionistas, meanwhile, may struggle to focus on Rome’s cultural assets at this point, as the Spanish Steps lead directly onto Via Condotti, the city’s top luxury shopping avenue.

The biggest names in couture are here, including Gucci, Prada, Hermes, Versace, Fendi, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana and many others.

(See ‘Shopping’ for more details).

31

32

italy

lazio

J

Fontana di Trevi ust a short walk from the Spanish Steps is the Trevi Fountain, one of the world’s most famous water works, located on the spot where three roads meet and the end point of the underground Acqua Vergine Antica aqueduct.

The duct was built in 19 BC by Caligula’s maternal grandfather, Agrippa, to feed water to his public baths at

Trevi fountain is best enjoyed basking in the afternoon light, or lit up after dark.

rome

the Pantheon from a spring 20 km away. It was restored in 1570 and still feeds the fountains of Piazza Farnese, Piazza di Spagna, and Piazza Navona.

Salvi’s Baroque masterpiece was reopened in 2015 after a €2.2 million refurbishment, paid for by fashion house, Fendi.

Initially funded by a papal state lottery and finally completed in 1760, the fountain features the Titan god, Oceanus

greatest·hits

—not Neptune, as many guides erroneously claim— accompanied by sea horses and Tritons, which are half men, half mermen.

Trevi can get extremely crowded, as throwing coins over the shoulder into the water is a must for any visitor to Rome.

Sailors started the tradition, believing that a coin tossed into Trevi ensured a safe return from their travels. Today,

33

the superstitious throw in two coins for love, three for marriage; little wonder, then, that the fountain accumulates some €3,000 per day, which is collected and given to charity daily.

Tip: Leave the stilettos on board to avoid becoming too closely acquainted with Rome’s cobblestone streets.

Wear your most comfortable walking shoes.

34

italy

Noon on a sunny day is the best time to admire the Pantheon’s extraordinary interior.

T

aking its name from the Greek words, ‘pan’ (all) and ‘theos’ (gods), the Pantheon was constructed some 2,000 years ago. The commonly held belief, from 1892 until 2007, was that this unique construction had been a monument to the gods, created by Agrippa, whose name adorns the façade.

However, using the latest dating technology, scholars now suggest this long-held theory to be wide of the mark, asserting that the original building was conceived by Hadrian and, after twice being destroyed by fire, Trajan replaced it with the enlarged monument standing today.

The Pantheon is considered one of the eight ancient wonders of the world. Michelangelo famously observed that it appeared more the

lazio

rome

greatest·hits

work of angels than man.

Its 28 coffers (sunken panels) below its dome were considered to signify a ‘perfect number’ with mystical meaning connected to the cosmos, though it may have been merely intended as a tribute to Trajan’s forefathers.

Its only source of internal light is the oculus, a six-metre open window at the zenith, allowing

the sun to beam down onto a sundial, with any incoming rainwater designed to drain away from its curved marble floor.

Whatever the truth of its origins and purpose, the Pantheon is an architectural masterpiece, built onto a concrete base in incrementally lighter materials, designed to withstand millennia.

To ensure that you can

35

withstand an entire day of sightseeing, the very best coffee in Rome is available from two rival coffee shops, each a stone’s throw away; Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè to the south-west and Tazza d’Oro to the northeast of the piazza.

If it’s refreshment you need in the shape of a gelato, head for Giolitti, 5 mins walk due north, in Via degli Uffici del Vicario.

36

italy

Piazza Navona

B

uilt on the site where chariot races were once held, Piazza Navona is a grand open space paved over in the 15th century, featuring the Fountain of the Four Rivers in the centre, designed in 1651

by Bernini Jr. Other features in the piazza are the Fountain of Neptune, as well as the Obelisk of Domitian, today surrounded by bars, cafés, restaurants and tourist shops dotted around what is a popular gathering place. An imposing building overlooking the square is the 17thcentury Baroque church of Sant’Agnese, while art lovers should enter Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi.

Its Contarelli Chapel has three 1602 Caravaggio paintings on display, collectively known as the St Matthew Cycle; Vocazione di San Matteo, Martirio di San Matteo and San Matteo e l’angelo.

lazio

rome

greatest·hits

O

37

Largo di Torre Argentina

ften cited as the place where Julius Caesar was stabbed to death, Largo Argentina has some of the oldest temple remains in Rome, dating from between the second and fourth centuries BC. Today, the site is a busy transport hub, surrounding what is now a cat sanctuary.

The name ‘Argentina’ has no bearing on the Latin American country, but is a derivation of the Latin name for what is

today Strasbourg, the hometown of a papal chronicler, Johannes Burckardt, nicknamed ‘Argentarius’. Burckardt’s 15th century palace occupied a large site in the area.

The actual site of Caesar’s demise is a 5-minute walk from here, where the ruler was ambushed and assassinated in 44 BC on the Ides of March (15th in the modern calendar) on the steps of the Theatre of Pompeii.

38

italy

lazio

Piazza Venezia & Capitoline Hill

I

mmortalised for its chaotic traffic in a 1960s comedy about a hyperactive traffic cop, Piazza Venezia lies right in the heart of Rome, where four major roads meet.

However, its greatest claim to fame is the grand Il Vittoriano monument, also known as the ‘Altar of the Fatherland’, or, less flatteringly, the ‘Wedding Cake’, built to celebrate Italian unification around the turn of the last century. At its foot is the ‘Tomb of the Unknown Soldier’. Looking across the piazza from the ‘Wedding Cake’, to the left lies San Marco Church, founded in 1336 by Pope Marco, rebuilt in 1833. Next to the church sits Palazzo Venezia, once a residential papal palace for Pope Paul II, from where Mussolini would later deliver his rabble-rousing speeches.

Opposite is Palazzo Bonaparte, which was the home of Napoleon’s mother, Letizia Ramolino, until her death in 1818, and is now occupied by an insurance company.

rome

greatest·hits

Nearby, a landmark worth a closer look is Trajan’s Column, to the right (south-east) of the square.

The monument was erected in 110 AD by the Roman emperor Trajan, with the ruler’s tomb located in the base. Surrounded by the remnants of Trajan’s Forum, the 38-metre high marble column itself recounts tales of victory over the Barbarians —anyone not Roman or Greek, in other words— in 155 scenes intricately chiselled in a spiral all the way down the structure.

39

40

italy

lazio

rome

Piazza deL Campidoglio

W

alk up Capitoline Hill, directly behind the Il Vittoriano monument, for the best view of the Roman Forum (as seen in the photo below).

The Temples of Jupiter and Juno once stood here, in Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo.

The beautiful square itself is home to the Capitoline Museum, the world’s first public museum. Its three separate buildings house hundreds of sculptures, including a bust of emperor Caligula, as well as paintings by Caravaggio and Battista.

However, its most famous asset is the original statue of the Capitoline Wolf.

A second copy is located on top of a column by the nearby Palazzo Senatorio and there are copies of this iconic work to be found in many countries

around the world. The 16th century statue became the symbol of Rome when the twin halfgod founders of the City, Romulus and Remus, were added to it, depicted as babies suckling from the she-wolf.

greatest·hits

41

Roman Forum

M Take the glass, panoramic elevator to the roof of Il Vittoriano for a phenomenal view of the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the surrounding city.

aking your way from Piazza Venezia, or from Piazza del Campidoglio, towards Rome’s most famous landmark, the Colosseum, walk along Via dei Fori Imperiali for a good view of the Roman Forum. The site originated in 500 BC, though over the centuries it was extended by successive rulers looking to outdo their forebears.

A collection of ruins remains of what was once the beating heart of Rome’s glorious empire, including Basilica Ulpia, the Forums of Julius Caesar, Augustus, Nerva

and Vespasian, the stock exchange, the Temple of Venus and Roma, Arch of Septimius Severus, the Arch of Titus and the House of the Vestal Virgins.

The great and the good of Rome would tread its cobblestoned corridors of power, being the centre for politics, trade and religion.

42

italy

Fun fact; the word ‘arena’ is Latin for sand, which was spread on the theatre’s wooden floor to keep gladiators from slipping and to soak up spilt blood. Nice.

Tip: Security at the Colosseum is tight and any bags larger than an average handbag are banned, with nowhere to check them, so keep belongings to a minimum.

lazio

rome

Colosseum

A

lmost 2,000 years old, the Colosseum’s Flavian amphitheatre is where gladiators fought with lions and other wild animals, or with each other, for the amusement of a baying crowd.

Built on swamp land over eight years, opened in 80 AD, the Colosseum was a feat of engineering, clad in limestone and covered by a velarium —a sophisticated canopy system of ropes, winches and awnings— to keep out the daytime heat. Tiered seating set above a subterranean complex of animal cages and stage sets provided seating for 60,000 Romans to be entertained.

The arena’s opening 100 days and nights of games saw the slaughter of an estimated 5,000 animals, though emperor Trajan later surpassed this with an extravaganza that lasted four months and killed 10,000 animals, plus 9,000 gladiators.

greatest·hits

43

The Colosseum is Italy’s top tourist attraction, so don’t think of going without a prior reservation.

A pre-booked private guided tour is strongly recommended.

Better still, take the tour at night.

44

italy

lazio

H

rome

rest·of·rome

aving listed Rome’s ‘Greatest Hits’ in a oneday walking itinerary, doesn’t mean that any of the city’s remaining highlights are any less visit-worthy. For a second and third day, there remain plenty of interesting ancient attractions to enjoy. Most are still in walking distance of each other in the centre, though some are a taxi ride to the outskirts of the city.

Circus Maximus

di Nerone’ statue of Nero that stood next to it.

Someday soon, augmented Circus Maximus dwarfed reality goggles may bring the Colosseum and, at 600 this site to life, though metres long with 250,000 for now, visitors need to seating capacity, was the use their imagination to largest Roman hippodrome envisage this grassy banked ever built. expanse as the gigantic stadium it once was. The The Circus had its origins nearby Colosseum wasn’t in the sixth century BC so named because it was and was redesigned, colossal; it was named enlarged and rebuilt over after the huge ‘Colosso the ensuing centuries by

rest·0f·rome

45

finest, the most successful free charioteers were able to win vast fortunes. Bags of gold and thousands of sesterces (silver or brass coins) were won each race, either as a driver for a team or as freelancers.

subsequent emperors.

The venue was conceived

by Romulus as a stadium for chariot races, though before the erection of the Colosseum, it was also used for gladiatorial contests and processions.

panem et circenses

By the time of Augustus, 17 days of racing were held each year, with ten or twelve races scheduled per day. Caligula, never one to do things by half, Made for entertainment, doubled the number of the earliest Romans races during his reign, also used their stadia to also increasing the abduct unmarried women, number of festive days in order to take them of races in honour of his for their wives, while mother and one of his their male companions sisters. were engrossed in the bloody spectacle. Unlike In contrast with enslaved other venues, including gladiators whose destiny the Colosseum, men and was almost certainly women were able to sit a public death, for the together here. delectation of Rome’s

Diocles, a charioteer from what is now Lamego, Portugal, was the greatest champion of all. Legend has it that he took part in his first professional race at 18 and retired at 42, in 146 AD, having won or come second in almost 3,000 out of 4,257 events.

His total gold and prize money haul would in today’s money be worth in the region of some $15 billion, making him easily the highest paid sports star in ancient history and unsurpassed since.

Diocles was preceded by another chariot superstar, Scorpus, an enslaved rider with 2,000 victories, riding for Rome’s ‘Green Faction’. He too amassed great wealth for his masters and himself, with the crowd throwing

46

italy

him money in their appreciation. Even though Scorpus eventually became a ‘libertus’ and bought his own freedom, he was unfortunate enough to die at the Circus at only 26.

lazio

Riders used to wrap reins around themselves in order to use their bodyweight for leverage in controlling the horses, carrying knives to cut themselves loose in case of an accident.

rome

However, in one ‘naufragia’ —or ‘shipwreck’, as the Romans called these crashes— the adulated Scorpus was unable to prevent being trampled to death.

Mouth of Truth

B

occa della Verità, or ‘Mouth of Truth’, is more a curio than an artefact of genuine cultural significance.

“Oh! Sad misfortune! That you, Scorpus, should be cut off in the flower of your youth, and be called so prematurely to harness the dusky steeds of Pluto. The chariot-race was always shortened by your rapid driving; but O why should your own race have been so speedily run?”

“O Rome, I am Scorpus, the glory of your noisy circus, the object of your applause, your short-lived favourite. The envious Lachesis, when she cut me off in my twenty-seventh year, accounted me, in judging by the number of my victories, to be an old man.”

Martial, Epigrams, 98 AD

This famous marble carving of a bearded face is a staple on the Roman visitor circuit, which, myth has it, used to bite off the hand of those who failed to tell the truth.

There is no definitive provenance, though the widely accepted theory is that the mask, a depiction of Oceanus, may have been part of a fountain or a drain cover in the nearby Temple of Hercules Victor.

It was placed in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church in 1632.

rest·0f·rome

47

While most visitors don’t make it beyond the church’s biggest draw outside, the original 6th century building was positioned on the site of the former ‘statio annonae’, once Rome’s food-distribution centre.

The charming, dim interior boasts a number of interesting frescoes and mosaics, but its most infamous asset is the fractured skull of a 3rd century bishop of Terni, better known as St. Valentine, patron saint of lovers. The bishop was martyred and buried on February 14th in 278 AD, having been clubbed to death on the orders of Claudius II, for defying a ban on marriages.

For reasons best known to pope Gregory XVI and Irish preacher, Father John Spratt, the rest of St Valentine’s remains were gifted to Dublin in 1836, where they are enshrined in a casket in the Carmelite Whitefriar Street Church.

48

italy

A

lazio

rome

Castel Sant’Angelo

long the main route between Vatican City and Rome’s centre lies this distinctive castle on the west bank of the Tiber.

years of blood, wars and death, giving it a very colourful history. As a militarised fort, it was connected in 1277 to the Holy See in the Vatican via an 800-metre long The fortified structure elevated corridor, the was commissioned in 134 ‘Passetto di Borgo’, AD by emperor Hadrian as which remains intact. a mausoleum for him and his family, was converted The castle got its name into a papal fortress in from a vision pope the 6th century and has Gregory the Great had functioned as a prison. of Saint Michael the Its walls are said to have Archangel during the seen more than 1800 plague in 590.

An imposing statue of the angel stands on the roof, which today houses a café and offers magnificent views of the city.

Highlights of the museum are the ‘Passetto’, Renaissance interiors and Raphaelite frescoes, the prisons and the beautiful papal baths of Leo X and Clemente VII, as well as a large collection of paintings, sculpture, military memorabilia and medieval firearms.

49

With extensive knowledge of immigration rules and regulations we ensure all on board have the correct paperwork. As consignatory agents, we can organise Sign-on and -offs, Visas, Transit Visas, invitation letters and more.

IMMIGRATION FOR MA LITIES Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

50

italy

Appian Way

F

or a long walk or cycle out of town, to the south of Rome lies the ancient Appian Way, the oldest Roman road in existence.

Construction started in 312 BC, eventually stretching almost 500 km to Brindisi on the Adriatic coast.

lazio

The road was named after Rome’s consul, Appius Claudius Caecus, who oversaw the laying of the first 90 km. Designed to connect the city to key military and commercial settlements to the south, the road dubbed ‘Regina Viarum’ (Queen of Roads) was a desirable avenue along which prominent Romans built their villas.

rome

The first part of the road e-lined with many monuments to admire, making for a beautiful, peaceful retreat from Rome’s frenetic centre.

However, the stillness belies a bloody past, as its catacombs beneath Tours around Rome by golf cart are available and can include Appian Way

rest·0f·rome

are the final resting place for generations of popes, soldiers and slaves. In 71 BC Spartacus was crucified here and his slave army of 6000 soldiers killed and interred.

One of the best-preserved structures is the Tomb of Caecilia Metella, at the 5 km mark, who was the daughter of Rome’s wealthiest consul and the wife of one of Caesar’s top generals.

Passing through Porta San Sebastiano, you will soon arrive at the 17th century small church Domine Quo Vadis, built on the site of ancient temples, where the Apostle Peter supposedly lived. It is here that Peter purportedly had a vision of Christ as he fled Nero’s troops in 64 AD. “Quo vadis, Domine?” (Where

are you going, Lord?) Peter had asked Jesus. Jesus responded that he was heading to Rome to be crucified again and a stone inside the church is

51

claimed to bear Christ’s footprints. Another 2 km along the road lies Circus Maxentius, one of the best-preserved chariot racing stadia.

52

italy

lazio

rome

Its patrons meanwhile would luxuriate through a sequence of rooms after entering via the apodyterium (dressing room); first the frigidarium (cold room) with ocated near the start its tank of cold water, the tepidarium (warm room), and finally the caldarium (hot room). Next in the sequence of the Appian Way they returned to the tepidarium for a massage and are the impressive scrub. Finally, they would unwind in the laconium ruins of ‘Terme di (a dry resting room).

Caracalla’, the remains of a spectacular thermal baths complex completed The complex closed in 537 after barbarian Visigoths in 216 AD under emperor destroyed the city’s aqueducts, before an earthquake destroyed much of the derelict structure in 847 AD. Caracalla.

Baths of Caracalla

L

Visiting communal baths was a favourite Roman pastime, to socialise, maintain their hygiene and exercise in gyms, with Caracalla hosting some 8,000 bathers daily.

The 11-hectare complex also contained libraries, gardens, shops and temples to worship the god, Mithras.

The baths had a sophisticated system of ducts supplying water heated by wood-fired ovens, as well as heating the ornately marbled walls and floors. Its 10 km plumbing network was maintained by hundreds of slaves, of course.

rest·0f·rome

53

Credit: Italian Culture Ministry

Introduced in 2018, Caracalla offers virtual reality goggles, enabling visitors to see the past splendour of each of its spaces

54

italy

lazio

Teatro Marcello

O

nly a stone’s throw from the Colosseum, this is a smaller, open air theatre, planned by Julius Caesar, though its construction began only after the emperor’s demise on the Ides of March in 44 BC. Completed in 12 BC, the theatre was inaugurated and named after the favourite nephew of the incumbent emperor, Augustus.

rome

Roman Ghetto

B

etween Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Venezia lies one of the oldest Jewish quarters in Europe. Rome’s first Jewish settlers were traders, followed by enslaved Jews brought An open air theatre for music and dance performances, to the city after Roman Theatrum Marcelli had a capacity of 20,000 spectators, conquests in Judea in 63 constructed in similar style and materials as its much BC and Jerusalem in 68 AD. more famous neighbour. A new architectural element However, the Ghetto itself was the first use in Rome of fired brick, which had stems from a period of been a Greek innovation. official papal intolerance, declared in 1555.

In the 16th century, a ‘palazzo’ was added on top of the concrete structure, restored in the 1930s, containing Pope Paul IV —a sadistic, apartments that remain occupied today, while the combative fellow, by all theatre continues to function as a summer venue for accounts— issued his bull evening performances. “cum nimis absurdum”,

rest·0f·rome

55

Commercial activity was prohibited, with the exception of trading in textiles —unless they were doctors, in which case they were still forbidden from treating Christians— and its residents were forced to wear identifying yellow badges or head cover.

They were not permitted to own property and only one synagogue would be left standing, for prayer. subjecting Jews to various restrictions and humiliations. Having enjoyed the liberty of living where and how they pleased, Paul IV mandated that Jews would now only be allowed to live in a squalid, walled quarter of the city that was prone to flooding.

The quarter’s only two entry points would be locked at night.

Before Jews could move into the Ghetto, they were required to go through an annual ritual, involving a ‘carnival of

humiliation’ at the start of Lent. The main event was a sequence of races, with contestants required to run naked through the streets, with only a loin cloth for modesty.

To add to spectators’ entertainment, they were encouraged to throw mud and fruit at the runners, who would often stop to vomit after being required to gorge themselves pre-race.

Only upon conclusion of the carnival and after payment of a tax, would new arrivals be permitted to take up residence.

By the time the Ghetto was officially abolished and the walls demolished in 1882, its original two gates had increased to eight. Until then, the only way to add accommodation had been to build higher, making it feel taller and more claustrophobic than surrounding neighbourhoods.

Today’s Ghetto The neighbourhood feels distinct from the rest of the city because of its concentration of Jewish restaurants, shops, and

56

italy

lazio

rome

Image courtesy of Sara Ceresa ©

bakeries, but it is now one of the most desirable areas of Rome.

Enter the area on Via Monattanara, around the corner from Teatro Marcello, and walk straight until you reach the enchanting turtle fountain in Piazza Mattei.

From here, take a left onto Via di S. Amrogio, where you will notice around a dozen gilded cobblestones in the pavement, commemorating residents who perished at Auschwitz during the Holocaust. In a poignant installation in 1992,

by Berlin artist Gunter

Demnig, some 200 of these are dotted around Rome, not exclusively in the Ghetto.

Continue to the end and turn left, towards Portico d’Ottavia, where many studios, boutiques and kosher eateries create a lively atmosphere. The typical delicacy to try is deep-fried artichoke and fried stuffed zucchini flowers, which you’ll get from famous local restaurants, Nonna Betta and Ristorante Piperno.

Don’t miss the distinctive nearby synagogue, Tempio Maggiore, before moving on.

rest·0f·rome

57

Isola Tiberina

Superbus, in 509 BC. The islet is home to a aking your functioning 16th century way from the hospital, founded on the Jewish Ghetto site where a temple had to Trastevere is an once stood, to honour opportunity to take in the god Aesculapius, the small Tiber Island, in erected two years after the middle of the river, an outbreak of the plague connected by two bridges. in the city. Dignitaries Pass the arts and crafts had been despatched sellers as you cross the to Epidaurus in Greece, water and pause halfway a medicinal centre, in order to bring back a statue of Aesculapius to aid the sick. By boat, they returned in 292 BC, not with a statue but with live serpent, considered to have divine healing powers. The snake found its way onto the island, with the spot becoming a shrine to healing and medicine.

M

to take in the tranquility of this picturesque spot. Only 269 metres long and 67 metres across at its widest point, the island itself is fairly unremarkable, but in the summer the area is alive with bankside stalls and places to eat and drink.

Legend has it that islet was formed from a mound of grain, formed unintentionally from excess crops dumped into the river on the orders of the last king of Rome, the luxuriously named Lucius Tarquinius

Shrines to other gods were subsequently built here, though aside from the hospital and a basilica, and some small squares, there doesn’t remain anything remarkable to see. It’s a pleasant place for a stroll, flanked by flowing water, and a drink or bite to eat.

58

italy

Trastevere

I

f it’s atmosphere you seek, Trastevere, a former working class district on the western side of the river, has it in spades. This colourful neighbourhood is home to pretty, faded façades, narrow cobbled streets and delightful squares and parks to wander around.

Trastevere is sometimes likened to New York’s Greenwich Village, or the bohemian Left Bank in Paris; best enjoyed at a terrace table with a glass of something local, watching the world go by.

Much of the area’s attraction lies in its bars, cafés, trattorias and boutiques, but there are some worthwhile cultural sights to be enjoyed too. The two largest and lively piazzas are also home to two stunning churches, containing several masterpieces each. In a corner on the western side of Piazza di Santa Maria stands the unassuming 12th

lazio

rome

rest·0f·rome

century Basilica di Santa Maria, with a glittering, gilt mosaicked interior

by Pietro Cavallini. In Piazza di Santa Cecilia, the Basilica di Santa Cecilia was built on the site where the eponymous saint’s house once stood. In 230 AD she was condemned to torture and death by the ruling bishop for burying Christians, which was forbidden.

59

Tip: The outside gates to Basilica di Santa Cecilia are sometimes locked, but someone should eventually let you in.

Don’t miss the crypt below the church, containing several Cavallini 13th century frescoes, which nuns will show you for a small fee if you ring the bell.

60

italy

lazio

rome

in Passeggiata del Gianicolo. It’s quite a climb to the summit, but your reward is the finest panoramic view of the city and is worth the trek.

Along the way, Fontana dell’Acqua Paola merits a stop. Not as ornate Wander through the as Trevi fountain, botanical gardens up the this monument was hill, lined with monuments commissioned by Pope Near the botanical gardens commemorating Giuseppe Paul V and completed in on the banks of the river Garibaldi, the 19th century 1612, marking the end of stands Villa Farnesina, an French-born Italian the Acqua Paola aqueduct opulent Renaissance villa guerrilla leader, and his restoration project.

by Baldassarre Peruzzi, ramshackle army, in their commissioned in the 1500s battle with French troops Paid for by the pontiff via as a private residence. The on this spot in 1849. a special tax on wine, in interior is decorated with order to bring fresh water frescoes by Raphael Sanzio The republican General from Lake Bracciano and a host of other Italian was instrumental in to residents on the hill, masters.

Italian unification and one could say that Paul V is honoured with a turned wine into water, large statue at the top which didn’t make him of Rome’s eighth hill, too popular at the time.

Legend has it that she survived being burned before being finally decapitated at the third attempt, after which she took three days to die.

Santa Cecilia is the patron saint of musicians, having sung to the Lord in heart while reluctantly being married off by her father.

En route to the botanical gardens, stop by Palazzo Corsini, a baroque palace with a stunning collection of 16th and 17th century Renaissance works, including pieces by Titian and Caravaggio.

61

We find the perfect candidate for the role you need to fill

RECRUITMENT Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

62

italy

lazio

rome

where·to·stay

w

“Hotels? In a superyacht travel guide?” e hear you ask. Well, if you are planning on spending a couple of days or more in Rome and don’t fancy the schlep to and from the boat, you’ll want somewhere to stay. There are many excellent hotels to choose from, so here are just some of the very best.

JK PLACE ROMA Via di Monte d’Oro 30 +39 06 982 634 Centrally located, just a short stroll from the Spanish Steps. A stylish 30-room boutique townhouse hotel.

Understated Dolce Vita style, cool design and the finest quality materials throughout the salons, restaurant and bedrooms are complemented by the highest standards of service.

THE ST REGIS ROME Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3 / +39 06 47091 First opened in 1894 by César Ritz, this glorious Belle Époque building has just completed a €40-million restoration, designed by world-famous interior designer, Pierre-Yves Rochon. The result is a stunning, contemporary grand hotel with 23 suites and 138 guest rooms.

HOTEL EDEN Via Ludovisi 49 +39 06 478 121 Reopened after a complete renovation in 2017, under the umbrella of The Dorchester Collection, Hotel Eden is a Roman classic. Eden’s location adjacent to Villa Borghese park is superb and is best appreciated from the rooftop lounge.

HOTEL DE RUSSIE Via del Babuino 9 +39 06 32 888 830 For understated chic, head for Rocco Forte’s Hotel de Russie on the Piazza del Popolo. This classic modern hotel is home to the infamous Stravinskij Bar, which is the cocktail bar of choice for Rome’s beautiful people. Dubbed “paradise on earth” by Jean Cocteau in 1917, its tiered ‘Secret Garden’ houses the Jardin de Russie restaurant.

PORTRAIT ROMA Via Bocca di Leone 23 +39 06 693 80 742 If designer shopping is your thing, this discreet hideaway in the heart of Rome’s exclusive shopping area may be just the ticket. As part of the Lungarno Collection, a Ferragamo familyowned chain of hotels and restaurants, Portrait Roma is a townhouse comprising just 14 suites and studios. Guests have access to a ‘Lifestyle Team Member’, who will satisfy your every whim or desire.

where·to·stay

F

shopping

or the cleric or regular member of your family, papal socks are a popular gift to bring back from Rome. Outfitters to the Vatican, Gammarelli (Via di S. Chiara 34), stock all the ecclesiastical attire you might dream of; from bishop’s rings to red velvet capes and mitres, this tailor has it all. Small wonder, then, that Pope Francis was named “Best Dressed Man of 2013” by Esquire magazine.

Another store unique to Rome is Saddler’s Union (Via Margutta 11), a purveyor of the highest quality, understated, leather bags, goods and accessories that first opened its doors in 1957. Its famous clientele once included Audrey Hepburn, Gianni Agnelli, Jack Lemmon and Jacqueline Onassis and it continues to create pieces to order for the cognoscenti.

HASSLER ROMA Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6 +39 06 699 340 The Hassler is a favoured grande dame on Rome’s deluxe hotel scene, located near the top of the Spanish Steps.

Mixing styles from Belle Époque to outré Art Deco, its 91 rooms and suites vary greatly in decor, though the top floors all have wonderful views of the city. Personality and gracious service.

The Michelin-starred restaurant, Imagò, has been wowing diners for the past decade.

The biggest labels in couture and luxury are to be found in the ‘Tridente’ district, where fashionistas should head for serious retail therapy. Start at Via Condotti, where there is the highest concentration of big name boutiques and flagship stores, while smaller shops are dotted around Via Borgognona, Via della Vite, Via delle Carrozze, via Frattina, Via Vittoria and Via del Babuino, famous for its antique dealers.

63

64

italy

S

lazio

rome

dining·out

ometimes dubbed, ‘the city of eternal heartburn’, Rome is of course one of the world’s great food capitals. Michelin lists one 3-star, one 2-star and as many as seventeen 1-star restaurants, with a further 44 eateries highly rated by the guide.

LA PERGOLA*** (Mediterranean)

Via Cadolo 101 / +39 06 35092152 romhi.lapergolareservations@waldorfastoria.com www.romecavalieri.com

IL PAGLIACCIO** (Creative)

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129 / +39 06 68809595 info@ristoranteilpagliaccio.com www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.com

AROMA* (Mediterranean)

Via Labicana 125 / +39 06 97615109 booking@aromarestaurant.it www.aromarestaurant.it

MARCO MARTINI RESTAURANT* (Creative) Viale Aventino 121 / +39 06 45597350 info@marcomartinichef.com www.marcomartinichef.com

MOMA* (Creative)

GLASS HOSTARIA* (Creative)

Vicolo del Cinque 58 / +39 06 58335903 infoglass@libero.it / www.glasshostaria.it

IL CONVIVIO-TROIANI* (Modern) Vicolo dei Soldati 31 / +39 06 6869432 info@ilconviviotroiani.com www.ilconviviotroiani.com

PIPERO* (Creative)

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 246 / +39 06 68139022 info@piperoroma.it / www.piperoroma.com

PER ME GIULIO TERRINONI* (Creative) Vicolo del Malpasso 9 / +39 06 6877365 perme@giulioterrinoni.it www.giulioterrinoni.it

ACQUOLINA* (Seafood)

Via San Basilio 42 / +39 06 42011798 info@ristorantemoma.it / www.ristorantemoma.it

Via del Vantaggio 14 / +39 06 3200655 info@acquolinaristorante.it www.acquolinaristorante.it

La Terrazza* (Modern)

ALL’ORO* (Creative)

IMÀGO* (Modern)

ASSAJE* (Modern)

ENOTECA AL PARLAMENTO ACHILLI* (Creative) Via dei Prefetti 15 / +39 06 86761422

ENOTECA LA TORRE* (Modern)

Via Ludovisi 49 / +39 06 47812752 terrazza.her@dorchestercollection.com dorchestercollection.com Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6 / +39 06 69934726 imago@hotelhassler.it / www.imagorestaurant.com

ristorante@enotecalparlamento.com www.enotecalparlamento.com

Via Giuseppe Pisanelli 25 / +39 06 97996907 booking@ristorantealloro.it www.ristorantealloro.it Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 / +39 06 3223993 assaje@aldrovandi.com / www.aldrovandi.com Lungotevere delle Armi 22 / +39 06 45668304 enotecalatorre@villalaetitia.com www.enotecalatorreroma.com

METAMORFOSI* (Creative)

Via Giovanni Antonelli 30 / +39 06 8076839 info@metamorfosiroma.it www.metamorfosiroma.it

dining·out

TORDOMATTO* (Modern)

Via Pietro Giannone 24 / +39 06 69352895 info@tordomattoroma.com www.tordomattoroma.com

BISTROT 64* (Mediterranean)

Via Guglielmo Calderini 64 / +39 06 3235531 info@bistrot64.it / www.bistrot64.it

If you love black truffles, you can indulge your passion at RISTORANTE LIFE, with its gastronomic ‘Menu Tartufo Nero’ Via della Vite 28 / +39 06 69380948 info@ristorantelife.it / www.ristorantelife.it

W Pizza

hen in Rome and it’s pizza you’re after, these are among the best…

For an on-the-go quick bite, BONCI PIZZARIUM (Via della Meloria 43) is first among equals, for taglio slices like nowhere else. For an ‘old school’ basic Roman experience straight from the 50s, the harshly-lit PIZZERIA AI MARMI (Viale di Trastevere 53) is unique. Locally, it’s nicknamed ‘the Morgue’ owing to its marble interior. PIZZERIA DA REMO (Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice 44) offers somewhat more comfort, but for comfort and creativity at a higher level, IN FUCINA (Via Giuseppe Lunati 27) is the place.

O

Vegetarian/Vegan f the Michelin-starred restaurants, IL PAGLIACCIO is especially commended for its vegetarian options. Established 30 years ago, IL MARGUTTA (Via Margutta, 118) is the oldest vegetarianonly restaurant in Italy. Located right by Termini station is RIFUGIO ROMANO (Via Volturno, 39/41), a 30-seater bistro that is not exclusively vegan/vegetarian, but boasts an impressively large selection of vegan dishes, earning rave reviews. A fine pizzeria noted for its vegan options is EMMA (Via del Monte della Farina, 28), while both branches of GINGER also cater to a high standard for vegans and omnivores alike (Via Borgognona 43 and Piazza Sant’Eustachio 54). As the name would suggest, SOLO CRUDO PRATI (Viale Federico Cesi 22) is an inventive raw food restaurant that comes highly recommended. MATER TERRACE (Largo Febo 2) offers the most picturesque views and Sicilyinspired vegan and organic dishes, on the 5th floor of the ‘bio’ Hotel Raphael by Piazza Navona.

65

66

italy

R

lazio

drinking

omans have been drinking wine for over two thousand years, so the grape still rules in this town. But the high-end cocktail scene is up and coming, so here is a selection of the best that have already arrived.

STRAVINSKIJ BAR

Hotel de Russie, Via del Babuino 9

Easily the smartest watering hole in town, the Stravinskij Bar in the courtyard of Hotel de Russie’s luscious Secret Garden draws many of Rome’s ‘beautiful’ people.

Best avoided if you seek privacy from prying eyes, this is a notoriously chic spot to see and be seen, offering exclusive luxury cocktails such as the Stravinskij Spritz, the Bellini derivative ‘Rossini’, or ‘The Ancient Romans Gin Tonic’ ft. VII Hills Gin, Celery, Sage and Black Pepper. If you’re feeling peckish, the bar menu ranges from a cheese toastie to Beluga caviar, and everything in between.

rome

THE JERRY THOMAS PROJECT, Vicolo Cellini 30 For something different, this small, smoke-filled ’speakeasy’ emulates a style from the Prohibition era. Inspired by a pioneer of the art of mixing drinks, ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas, a bartender from San Francisco who authored America’s first Bartenders Guide in 1862, this bar has some quirks.

Booking in advance is obligatory, as is a token €5 membership and a peek at its website (or app) ahead of your visit, to obtain the password after answering a question. You are given the day’s password online which you must speak into the intercom to gain access.

Your reward for this rigmarole is a great 1920s atmosphere with personality, live music and a wide range of expert cocktails based on a large selection of gins, some homemade.

It’s not great for large groups, nor for people who dislike smoking, nor vodka lovers (it’s banned).

But otherwise, this bar is highly recommended.

drinking

THE GIN CORNER, Via di Pallacorda 2

ZUMA, Via della Fontanella di Borghese 48

Should you find yourself craving gin in the vicinity of the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, pop into Hotel Adriano’s casual lobby bar, with its selection of more than 80 varieties. Styled as Italy’s sole ‘gin only’ bar, The Gin Corner offers probably the greatest range of juniperinfused spirits anywhere. Even the most ardent ginthusiast is likely to discover something new.

To indulge a passion for couture with cocktails, this Japanese-themed rooftop bar on Palazzo Fendi, the fashion label’s flagship store, might be just the place. This swanky bar and restaurant is another of Rome’s current hotspots to see and be seen, with a rooftop overlooking the city. Perhaps offering less variety in cocktails than its contemporaries listed here, Zuma’s excellent Asian cuisine is another draw, though service can be inconsistent.

CHORUS CAFÉ, Via della Conciliazione 4 To the east of Vatican City, close to Castel Sant’Angelo, lies another smart drinkery. On the second floor of the beautiful art deco ‘Auditorium Conciliazione’, this former Vatican choir room is a sophisticated marble and glass cocktail lounge. Tended by celebrated mixologist, Massimo D'Addezio, Chorus Café’s menu is James Bond-inspired, with a range of homegrown martinis and inventive concoctions.

ENOTECA BULZONI, Viale dei Parioli 36 If it’s the grape you crave, the place to head for is this newly revamped wine emporium that first opened its doors in 1929. Bulzoni started as a modest wine and oil shop, but run today by the third family generation, it’s like a wonderland for oenophiles. Surrounded by over a thousand different wines displayed wallto-wall, tables are dotted around for tasting, drinking and buying, guided by two brothers who really know their onions.

Wines are categorised by method, as Moderno, Vini Come Una Volta and Vini Estremi, produced entirely organically and in a dedicated tasting room all of their own. To sustain the ‘tasting’, sustenance comes in the form of tapas, pintxos and a grand selection of locally-sourced meats and cheeses, though larger plates are available too. If you’re looking to re-stock the galley or the cellar at home, Bulzoni ship throughout Europe, and doubtless your yacht agent can arrange for delivery on-board.

67

68

italy

A

lazio

castelli·romani

nother reason to visit Nemi is the stunning countryside and the villages of the Castelli Romani region. Named after a 200-year period of rural fortification by noble Romans fleeing the city —while the French crown ‘captured’ the papacy and relocated it to Avignon— fearing further losses as their power waned, this beautiful region has an abundance of woods, meadows, mountains and lakes for outdoors enthusiasts.

The ‘Castelli Romani’ are 17 hilltop towns, surrounded by the fertile valleys of volcanic Lazio, particularly noted for its strawberry production. As Rome reasserted its power and the noblesse returned to the Eternal City, they left behind villas, palaces, parks and gardens, as well as churches and sanctuaries. They also left behind many festivals and rituals still celebrated centuries later.

castelli·romani

nemi

Among the grand villas and palaces stands the Pontifical Palace of Castel Gandolfo, the summer residence of the Pope until it was turned into a museum in 2016. It was acquired by the Vatican in 1596 when the owning Savelli family was unable to pay a debt to the Papacy [NB. ’Your home may be at risk if you do not keep up repayments; even to the Pope’].

69

70

italy

In June in Genzano di Roma locals spend day and night peeling off flower petals used to decorate the town’s main street, for the colourful Infiorata Festival. Covered in colour, this huge floral canvas takes some 400,000 flowers to create, with patterns chalked on the street on Friday, petals laid meticulously on Saturday ahead of a service in the duomo on Sunday, before children are allowed to run amok

lazio

on Monday in a riot of colour and fragrance.

As the region is the certified origin of 21 food and 9 wine varietals, there is something festive occurring all year round to celebrate its specialities. Lariano is nicknamed ‘the village of festivals’, famed for its porcini mushrooms, artisan dark flour bread and cellitti, a pasta variety.

It also pays homage to bruschetta, pizza, wild

castelli·romani

71

boar and polenta each year, so features large on any regional gastronomic tour.

In the towns of Aricca and Frascati, the must-try is a porchetta sandwich, the locallyreared spiced spit-roasted pork, with a good glass of local wine.

For Michelin-starred cuisine in the area, check out the modern Antonello Colonna in Labico or the Aminta Resort farmhouse in Genazzano, which is renowned for a superb wine and Champagne list, as well as its inventive cuisine.

The fortified Abbey of San Nilo, in Grottaferrata,

dates back to 1004.

The Monastery was built on the remains of a Roman villa whose cryptoporticus remains visible, and its Farnese chapel is richly frescoed

by Domenichino. The cloister also houses a library with over 50,000 ancient volumes and the Laboratory of Restoration of Ancient Books, where Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus was restored.

In a ritual of which Caligula would doubtless approve, during the grape festival of Marino, ‘Sagra dell’Uva’, on the first Sunday in October, wine flows from the town’s fountains. How much fun does that sound?

74

italy

S

sardinia

sardinia

ardinia lies outside the circuit of civilisation, D.H. Lawrence observed in his 1921 travel book, ‘Sea and Sardinia’. No ancient occupiers ever subdued the island’s intrinsic character, the author continues, slipping through the net of the old European civilisation.

Indeed, Sardinia is different.

A staple on the superyacht trail since the 1960s, Sardinia’s enduring appeal is as clear as the

Tip: Our friends at Seastar Shipping are on hand to provide any support you require and make any necessary arrangements on the spot. +39 349 2456184 info@seastarshipping.it

waters that surround it.

Unspoilt white beaches, a lush, rustic interior and a sense of exclusivity keep yacht owners and guests returning here season after season.

A rich cultural legacy dating back to the Bronze Age includes Catalan, Phoenician, Carthaginian, Roman and Piemontese occupation, providing plenty of historic interest and remnants to explore.

Its rugged, unspoilt hinterland is home to some four million sheep, the last wild horses to be

found in Europe and a herd of albino miniature donkeys, but it’s the coast that most visitors come for.

The jewel in Sardinia’s crown is Costa Smeralda, where most yachts tend to be found during their visit, though there is plenty else to explore.

Not least, Sardinia’s scuba diving is among the very best in the Mediterranean. Rich in sea life, some interesting wrecks and formations and, thanks to the abundance of Posidonia sea grass, great visibility, attracting divers of all levels of experience.

alghero

75

Tip: For your stop on Sardinia’s west coast, MARINA ALGHERO, established in 1998, offers 60 berths up to 70m, offering all the finest facilities our clients expect.

T

alghero

he former Catalan colony of Alghero is a popular stop on the north western side of the island, with a charming historic centre nestled behind a lively port, on a beautiful stretch of coast. The centre of town comes alive in summer, with pretty winding cobbled lanes lined with boutiques, cafés and eateries, and picturesque piazzas with medieval churches.

The biggest sightseeing attraction near here is ‘Grotta di Nettuno’, or Neptune’s Cave, featuring spectacular rock formations, lit up for dramatic effect. The caves date from the Neolithic age and extend some 4 km, though are only partially accessible to the public. For guided access, take a boat trip from Alghero marina, or arrange a transfer to the clifftop and walk the 650 steps down the

Map data ©2019 Google

76

italy

sardinia

north·west

‘goats stairway’. Worth a passing glance by tender, at least.

Having soaked up the sun and wandered around the lanes in the early evening, take a walk along the old sea walls around the edge of town and catch the spectacular sun set over the tall cliffs of Capo Caccia.

DINING out

T

here is a profusion of touristic restaurants in Alghero, but the best in town is LA LEPANTO (Via Carlo Alberto 135, +39 079 979116), where the lobster is a speciality on the mostly seafood menu.

More rustic, but also rated are IL PAVONE (Piazza Sulis 3, +39 079 979584) for seafood and pasta, and AL TUGHURI (Via Maiorca 113, +39 079 976772) with meat and fish dishes prepared on an open grill, while it also offers a decent vegetarian menu.

North West La Pelosa beach

S

tintino is a small village founded only in 1885 by fishermen originally from

77

Asinara, a small island off the northwestern tip of Sardinia, which is now predominantly inhabited by blue-eyed, miniature albino donkeys.

The main draw to this part of the island is La Pelosa beach, the first of a series of white, open beaches in this area, and its sands are regarded as the finest Sardinia has to offer. Shallow, azure waters resemble a natural swimming pool, attracting large crowds in the high season. If you plan on coming ashore for some beach time, officious wardens will insist on a mat or base under your towel.

La Pelosa Beach 40°57‘59.8“N 8°12‘37.1“E

Next up is Le Saline, named after the nearby salt marshes in the Gulf of Saline. This beach is layered with crushed pebbles and is a popular spot for sailing and windsurfing. It can get crowded in places, but the 9km long stretch towards Fiume Santo means there’s always somewhere to get away from the unwashed.

If you’re an early morning walker/runner, this is the place to come. At Ezzi Mannu, the beach turns pebbly and tends to be quieter at peak times.

78

italy

The area is popular with birdwatchers, particularly in the autumn when migrating species are passing through. Flocks of flamingos can reach a hundred or more, alongside resident birds of prey and a wide variety of waders. For flamingos in particular, visit the World Heritage Site at Molentargius in the south near Cagliari, where they congregate in greater number.

sardinia

kite-surfing beach of Platamona, we reach Castelsardo, a picturesque historic town. As the name would suggest, its primary feature is the 12th century Castello dei Doria and its fortifications.

north·east

and fifty-five ‘isolotti’, Maddalena Archipelago has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1994, preserving its stunning natural beauty. With Passing more beaches inhabited by wind-seekers umpteen unspoilt coves, lagoons and beaches to and family daytrippers, At the northern tip of explore, many accessible we work our way around this part of the island only by boat, guests are to glamorous northis the rugged headland able to play and relax eastern parts. of Capo Falcone, named away from prying eyes. after the peregrine falcon Head for Budelli, Razzoli that nests here. From the and Santa Maria North East Falcone tower, built in if it’s privacy you seek.

1537, there are stunning Maddalena views of Isola Piana, a There has been some Archipelago nature reserve islet, to the development of tourism south west, and of Asinara here since the closure of his exclusive just to the north. pocket of Sardinia, NATO’s naval base on La  in the Strait of Bon- Maddalena eleven years Skirting east along the ago, though not enough ifacio, is as though it was Gulf of Asinara, passing to spoil things for the made for yachting. Comthe popular wind and prising seven main islands elite traveller. In fact,

T

79

thanks to having become accustomed to US naval personnel and their dollars over the decades, service levels are higher here than in many parts of Italy.

Costa Smeralda, named after the emerald colour of its waters, stretches some 50 km from Cannigione in the Golfo di Arzachena, north around Capo Ferro, and south to Cugnana in the Golfo di Cugnana. It is where you come to rub fenders with the highest of rollers.  Largely undeveloped, aside from Port Cervo in the centre and, to a lesser extent, Porto Rotondo, Smeralda is about exclusivity and privacy, in contrast with the brash showing off for which, say, St Tropez or Monaco are renowned.

Here, any hard partying

Map data ©2019 Google

—‘bunga bunga’ style or otherwise— mostly takes place on board at anchor, or in private villas, tucked discreetly away in´land.

Daytimes are for relaxing on a beach, one more beautiful than the next, and enjoying watersports in the clearest waters.

But if it’s shopping you

crave, most of the designer ‘usual suspects’ are found around the marina and in the town. Labels include Bvlgari, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Valentino, Prada, Gucci, Tod’s, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Trussardi, Rossetti and Cartier. There is even a branch of Harrods and many exclusive lesserknown boutiques where you might get a made-tomeasure bikini, or even a tailored get-up for your Chihuahua; a visit to Porto Cervo is a wonderful opportunity to give the black card a real caning.

100 95 75

25 5 0

84

italy

DINING out

L

a Maddalena has many lively bars, cafés and trattorias, but for higher-end dining, head back over to Costa Smeralda. There are three Michelin-starred restaurants in Sardinia; one in Porto Cervo and the others in the south of the island. DAL CORSARO* in Cagliari and S’APPOSENTU* in Siddi.

Perhaps it’s surprising that there aren’t more, given the clientele here, though Sards are different, after all.  East Sardinia

sardinia

east

Spiaggia del Principe 41°05‘19.5“N 9°33‘49.3“E

Cala Capriccioli 41°04‘45.2“N 9°33‘14.8“E

W

hile many visitors don’t venture far beyond the Costa Smeralda during their stay, Sardinia’s east coast offers much more beautiful coastline, with many secluded beaches and coves for those who want to get away from it all. At ‘The Y’, we don’t do superlatives when photographs can do the talking, so here is some coastal imagery to entice you.

Pevero 41°06‘58.9“N 9°32‘40.8“E

We can arrange for multi-lingual medical support on board, 24/7

MEDICAL ASSISTANCE Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

86

italy

sardinia

Suffice to say, Sardinia is simply one of the finest coastal places on Earth.

The eastern coastline is protected from Sardinia’s westerly winds, making it perfect for paddle boarding or kayaking. Venturing inland, towns, villages and hamlets are small, rich in folkloric heritage and characteristic, gritty architecture. There are plenty of ancient ruins, typical murals, old churches and small museums that document their colourful history, but most visitors tend to stay on or near the water.

olbia

olbia

streets leading off Piazza Regina Margherita. There lbia is regarded are plenty of boutiques as the gateway to and decent restaurants northern Sardinia, to while away a few with the island’s second hours in transit, if not airport and its busiest ferry a destination in their terminal being closest to own right. The surCosta Smeralda and other rounding countryside is popular resorts. It is also a lovely, with the nearest useful embarkation point attraction, the Nuraghic for yachts, with Marina di settlements of Nuraghe Olbia being a stone’s throw Riu Mulinu, found on the from the airport, while northern outskirts of the our partners, First Bunker, city and the Giant’s Grave are close by to supply fuel of Su Monte de s’Abe to and lube. the south.

O

However, there is more to Olbia than meets the eye, with a charming old town and pleasant shopping

Tip: The large Auchan hypermarket in Olba (on the SS125, past the airport) is useful for provisions or ad hoc requirements and is open 7 days) DINING out

T Cala Coticcio 41°12‘54.9“N 9°29‘02.9“E

here are plenty of decent restaurants and trattorias in Porto Cervo to choose from, but just one is Michelin-starred, CONFUSION* (Promenade du Port, +39 340 1209574), so booking well ahead is strongly advisable. The only other establishment rated by the guide here is MADAI (Promenade du Port, +39 0789 91056).

cagliari

Cagliari

I

f transiting through Cagliari airport with time on your hands, Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2015 is a pleasant enough place to explore.

This hilltop town was once an important outpost in Roman times, while 13th century Pisans too stamped their personality on the city.

The Castello neighbour-

hood, at the top of the hill, has a medieval feel and here you will find a number of museums documenting the town’s rich history.

Wandering down towards the port, along the warren of lanes, there are many churches and faded palazzi to enjoy, while the shopping district and the sea front around Poetto beach are

87

lively with many bars, cafés and restaurants.

Behind Poetto, to the east of the city, lie the lagoon of Santa Gilla and Molentargius Saline nature park, rich with birdlife. In addition to pink flamingos, cormorants and herons that are among the 70odd bird species that nest here, an estimated two hundred varieties pass through these wetlands.

88

italy

Asinara

I

f blue-eyed, miniature, white albino donkeys are your thing, get across to Asinara, at the northwestern tip of Sardinia. A maximumsecurity penal colony for mafiosi and Red Brigaders until twenty years ago, the only inhabitants of Asinara now is a herd of some 120 small, wild donkeys, of which the majority are white albino.

There are many theories as to how they arrived here, though favourite is that they are descendant

sardinia

asinara

activities

of Egyptian donkeys, brought over by Tunisian settlers. Quite why they were reared by the island’s farming community is unknown, but they stayed behind after King Umberto di Savoia ordered their keepers off the island in 1885, to build the prison.

Hiking and Climbing

S

ardinia’s rugged, sparsely populated interior means great hiking trails and climbs. The Barbagia mountains in the east feature challenging trails for experienced hikers, while on the western side, near Montevecchio are mountainous paths more suited to walkers, offering stunning coastal views, of course.

Its forests meanwhile offer beautiful waterfalls, rock formations and flora to explore.

In all instances, it’s advisable to book a local guide, as some of Sardinia’s terrain can be very challenging and unaccompanied explorers regularly require rescuing.

For climbers, Sardinia has some 6,000 sport climbing routes. One of the outstanding favourites is the 148m high Aguglia rock at Cala Goloritzè, a free-standing limestone formation presenting a superb slab climb.

Horse riding

S

ardinia has a deep equestrian tradition and offers lots of riding possibilities for riders of all abilities, ranging from complex trails to bareback riding on the beach.

89

90

italy

sardinia

ACTIVITIES

In the north, the Valledoria area has many paths for experienced riders, while more relaxing trails in the north-east take in the Gallurese coast, with its stunning landand seascapes. There are many riding centres around the island, though one of the biggest is the Horse Country Resort in western Arborea, offering a full range of lessons and guided tours for all ages and abilities.

Hunting

A

longside Sardinia’s population of four million sheep, indigenous wild boar, or ‘cinghiale’, are abundant and hunted only between November

and January. A staple of Sardinian cuisine, these wild pigs can weigh up to 100 kg, roaming around the millions of cork oaks, feeding on acorns. Out of season, there are practice

hunts that visitors can join.

If wanting to combine cruising and shooting, consider coming during September or October.

91

Hunting is an intrinsic part of life here and hare, Sardinian partridge, woodcock, snipe, wild rabbit, lark, pigeon and quail are among the many varieties found.

Hunting in Italy is tightly regulated, but there are a number of local lodges that can facilitate visitors, providing batters, dogs, guns and equipment. For non-participants, there are alternative country pursuits such as lake fishing, hiking and clay shooting.

Foraging

F

and mushrooms. Other parts of Italy are larger producers, but varieties such as ovolo, gallinaccio and porcino nero, are abundant here, as well as a range of truffles.

diving in the Mediterranean. In summer there is a Particularly in the woods thermocline at 12 metres, around Laconi, you can where temperatures drop join organised forages, to around 15C or so, while with dogs, to seek the winter temps are around prized white truffle, 13C, rising to 24C by late though you are more like- summer. The sea remains ly to come away with black above 20C throughout summer or winter truffle, October, though weather depending on what time can be changeable. May of year you visit. offers the best visibility, up to 40 metres, but waScuba diving ters are on the cool side.

W

ith some 1800 or hunting of a km of coastline different kind, dense and crystal clear forests here are waters, Sardinia offers fertile ground for truffles some of the very best

Sardinia is a wonderful place to dive, either for experienced divers or novices, with well lit dives down to 70 metres and

92

italy

a great variety, including caves, corals and crustaceans. Because of the island’s position along busy strategic shipping lanes, surrounding waters are also littered with a variety of wrecks.

Predictably, the north east part of the island is the busiest, with the archipelago of La Maddalena and Bonifacio Strait boasting some forty dive sites. Its granite rocks, drop offs, overhangs, swim-throughs and caves are fertile habitat for a large variety of fish, molluscs and crustaceans.

Moray eel, stone fish, bream, conger eel, barracuda, grouper, octopus, crab, lobster and lots of nudibranches are typical.

sardinia

around closely. Snapper, sea bass and barracuda are also common sight here.

Further south, down the east coast, the islands of Tavolara and Molara offer another 20 dive sites, including a wreck and sea-life including barracuda, snapper and large octopus. Snorkelers here will also see large schools of chromis and wrasse. Dive sites Papa Bank 1 and 2, to the east of Tavolara, have beautiful coral and you may see large mobula rays and moray eels tucked in among yellow cluster anemones.

The Molara wreck is one of two ships sunk in 1941 during WWII just off Tavolara, 70 metres long and lying at 35m, where If you’re a fan of friendly there are a­ lways schools grouper, Lavezzi is the dive site for you. This area of saddled sea bream, red mullet and snapper, as of the protected marine park is commonly known well as grouper, eels and lobsters. Il Grottone is as ‘Grouper City’, where a great leisurely dive; a these wonderful fish shallow, wide cavern no flourish. Accustomed to deeper than 15m and well divers, they get up close lit, filled with colourful and tend to follow you

ACTIVITIES

93

algae and sponges, while fish are plentiful in the surrounding area.

Over on the western side, off Alghero, Sardinia’s shoreline caves are replicated underwater, with some of Europe’s largest caves found at Capo Caccia, in a system of over a hundred caverns in its limestone cliffs. Rare red coral can be found here at only 10 metres.

Among them are Nereo’s Cave, aka the ‘Old Man of the Sea’, the biggest marine cave in the Mediterranean, featuring a system of arches, ­tunnels, air chambers and caves deep inside the mountain.

Falco’s Cave leads to a dry chamber where divers can take off their gear and look around its ­stalactites and stalagmites, while the cave is teeming with hermit crabs. Deer Cave is a partially submerged cavern named after a an ancient deer fossil found there, thought to be 100,000 years old.

gulf of naples and isles

98

gulf·of·naples & isles

Map data ©2019 Google, Imagery ©2019 TerraMetrics

ponza

99

I

ponza

f venturing inland to Rome and Castelli Romani doesn’t tempt you, consider instead exploring some tiny islands in the Pontine Archipelago, to the south of Anzio.

Ponza is where modern day Romans come for long weekends and short breaks, though the likes of Beyoncé and Jay Z, Bruce Springsteen and Rihanna have been spotted here too in recent times.

Just a short hop from Anzio, or on the way to the mainland from

Sardinia, at merely 7km square, Ponza is the largest of six small volcanic islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea, that were once a penal colony. Caligula’s eldest brother, Nero Caesar, was deported and killed here in 29 AD, followed by two of the emperor’s sisters ten years later, for plotting to overthrow their brother.

These days, you’ll find mostly Italian residents or visitors, here to enjoy the tranquility and natural beauty that the island and its surroundings offer.

Ponza is low-key, without any fancy shopping or posing, so if you’re looking to get ‘papped’ on the back of your Lürssen, this isn’t the place for you.

The island itself is a crude rock in crystal clear waters, not offering much in terms of landscape, but it is the surrounding seascape that is the main attraction. Visitors all take to the water during their stay, but there are

ample limestone coves and crags to explore and for it not to get overcrowded.

Some have beaches buzzing with revellers on a day out, while others are deserted and peaceful.

Volcanic waters are ethereal and perfect for snorkelling or just paddling around. Young children enjoy splashing in the tide pools.

There are a dozen sites for scuba divers to explore, with a well-preserved WWII landing ship, USS ‘LST 349’ wreck at 25m, and numerous rock and wall dives with stunning formations, rich in fish such as bream, groupers and a range of organisms.

Given the predominance of fussy Roman eaters, food is of excellent quality, whether you seek just-caught simplicity in a basic café, or the Michelin-starred elegance of ‘ACQUA PAZZA’ (+39 077 180 643), in the old port.

100

gulf·of·naples & isles

E

ventotene

ventotene

ven smaller than Ponza, also in the Pontine Archipelago, is Ventotene.

Just 1.54 km square, this island has less than a thousand permanent inhabitants and, like its neighbour, is primarily a weekend retreat for Romans and Neapolitans.

Ventotene’s first claim to fame is that emperor Augustus had a large

villa built here, not as a holiday home, but as somewhere to incarcerate family members. Its first regal occupant was his own daughter, Julia the Elder, Caligula’s grandmother, banished for ‘excessive adultery’.

Later, Agrippina the Elder, Caligula’s mother, would be sent here too by emperor Tiberius, after she accused him of having her husband,

Germanicus, murdered.

The subsequent death of her brother brought her own sons in line for succession, though her banishment wouldn’t prevent her younger son, Caligula, from acceding.

The island was inhabited intermittently over the centuries, but would only become a permanent place to live once the small town was established in the 18th century. A formal prison was also built on the neighbouring islet

101

of Santo Stefano, which became the involuntary home of anti-fascist intellectuals, Altiero Spinelli and Ernesto Rossi, during WWII. Here, they would write a document entitled ‘Per un’Europa libera e unita’, now better known as the ‘Ventotene Manifesto’. It set out the concept of a federalised Europe and was the kernel that led to the formation of the European Union.

Ventotene is a thin reeflike ridge, some 3km long,

with a single town at the northern end, a small port for fishing and private vessels and a terminal for cruise liners, plus a heliport. Like Ponza, its waters are great for swimming and snorkelling, while half a dozen dive sites have a rich variety of sea life, as well as the wreck ‘Santa Lucia’ at 43 metres, a passenger ferry sunk in 1943. Particularly recommended are the ‘Secca dell’Archetto’ tunnel at 50m, full of sponges and anemones, as

well as ‘Punta dell’Arco’, up to 40m, with two caves rich in plant life.

While no Michelin inspectors have probably visited Ventotene, there are a number of informal restaurants and eateries to choose from, serving locally-caught fare alongside standard Italian classics. The highestrated is ‘IL GIARDINO’ (+39 0771 85020), a familyrun restaurant that has a loyal following of returning visitors.

102

gulf·of·naples & isles

A

ischia

s though spun off from the top of the Bay of Naples, Isola d’Ischia is an ancient isle first colonised by the Greeks in the 8th century BC. The volcanic, mountainous rock is home today to some 60,000 Neapolitans, whose lives revolve around tourism, agri- and viticulture, while many commute to Naples.

ischia

mineral springs and its picturesque coastline. It is less glitzy than the smaller Capri at the southern end of the Bay, regarded more as a quiet health resort made for spending a leisurely few days.

Ischia’s naturally heated thermal water can be enjoyed in a number of thermal parks throughout spring and summer, or you can dip into the warm waters of Sorgeto all year round. Sorgeto is a coastal inlet accessible from the The greatest attractions westerly village of Panza, are Ischia’s famous thermal though beware the very

hot pebbles! Islanders have been cooking on them for centuries, preparing complete meals at this spot, using free heat provided by Mother Earth. And as you luxuriate in the hot, salty seawater bath, enjoy the most glorious sunset.

At the eastern end, the stretch from Ischia Porto towards the waterfront at Ischia Ponte is a wonderful area to explore on foot, with colourful buildings, parks, shops, cafés and restaurants along tree-lined rambling

103

lanes. The quayside overlooks crystal blue waters towards Procida and the mainland in the distance.

‘Ponte’ refers to Ponte Aragonese bridge that leads to a small bulbous peninsula, home to Castello Aragonese. Its fortifications date back to the 5th century BC when the castle was named ‘Castrum Gironis’, passing through the Middle Ages as ‘Insula Minor’ before emerging in the Renaissance as ‘Castello Aragonese’, after the dynasty of Alfonso I of Aragon in

the 15th century AD. The castle remains in private hands and stages cultural events all year round.

of the island, Chiesa del Soccorso. Its origins date back to 1350, when it was an Augustinian Monastery, though it was rebuilt after Just 12km across the an earthquake reduced it island on the western to rubble in 1883. It’s an edge lies Forio, the largest evocative little building in town on Ischia. A favourite a stunning location that destination for Tennessee has been known to move Williams and Truman visitors to tears at sunset.

Capote in the 1950s, Forio is well known for To the south lies Sant’ its beautiful botanical Angelo, where you will gardens, four fine beaches find understated chic and excellent restaurants. boutiques in old fishing cottages and piazzas Worth a look is the white- lined with great places washed little church to eat and drink, while perched right at the tip watching the world go by.

104

gulf·of·naples & isles

The largest beach on the island lies to the east of Sant’Angelo, Maronti Beach, stretching 2 km across to the village of the same name. The village itself has little to offer but places for sustenance and rehydration after a hot day at the beach.

Scuba Diving

ischia

Punta Campanella has deep ancient wrecks for advanced divers, but for beginners and leisure divers this site is rich in marine life. Fish varieties found here include large gorgonians, anthias, amberjacks and tuna, while the sea bed is a carpet of sponges.

Mitigliano has an easily navigated corridor adorned with corals, with Ischia is popular with hikers, with its many fish and red shrimp feeding there, mountainous terrain offering stunning leading to a cavern full of sea anemones. views at every turn, which can also be Further, there are wall dives, drift dives, enjoyed on horseback. But offshore, its a large statue of the Virgin Mary on a crystalline volcanic waters contain some coral-covered floor, with lots of sea life superb dive sites. all around.

105

Dining out

belonged to his parents and grandparents, chef Ischia boasts four Michelin- Nino Di Costanzo opened a small, romantic dining starred restaurants, room surrounded by a with the most inventive beautiful Mediterranean being DANÌ MAISON** garden. IL MOSAICO* (+39 081 993 190, Via i (+39 081 994 722, Piazza Traversa Montetignuso 28) Bagni 4). Creative cooking, in the centre of Ischia town, in the east. Opened elegant dining rooms and terrace. INDACO* in 2016 in the house that

(+39 081 994 322, Piazza Restituta 1, Lacco Ameno) Creative seafood, quayside, overlooking a mushroomshaped rock for which the town is famous.

If it’s a view you’re after, hop across the water to the tip of the mainland at Miseno, where you will find CARACOL* (+39 081 523 3052, Via del Faro 44, Bacoli), just up from the lighthouse.

Perched at the top of the cliff, diners enjoy traditional regional cuisine with a modern twist, overlooking Procida and Ischia.

106

gulf·of·naples & isles

N

procida

procida

ext up, towards the Bay of Naples, is Procida.

Another volcanic island, no bigger than 4km square, this effective ‘suburb’ of the city is densely populated, with 10,000 inhabitants.

Outside the colourful town, Procida is a naturally attractive place with stunning views, dotted with villas belonging to affluent Neapolitan weekenders.

Procida’s main USP seems to be that it is generally overlooked by visitors to nearby Ischia, which in fairness has more to offer as a tourist destination.

Procida, on the other hand is modest and authentic as a place to live and work, not having been spruced up for visitors. It’s a bit shabby, but charming, like Capri but without the cash.

The island’s main attractions are the quay

107

at Marina Corricella, in the northeast, and the town behind with a maze of narrow streets. There is a large leisure marina to the north and a smattering of beaches, of which the best is Lido di Procida, on the southwestern coast, near natural Marina Chiaiolella.

In August, the world and its mother comes here from the mainland, though the rest of the year Procida makes a pleasant stop without the hordes. There aren’t an enormous amount of attractions or must-see monuments on Procida, but a trek up to Terra Murata is worthwhile.

This fortified settlement has been a monastery and a prison and is the highest point of the island, giving wonderful view of the Bay and nearby islands.

and migrating birds. The only building here is the ‘Bourbon Hunting Lodge’ built by Duke De Guevara in 1681.

For Michelin dining, head over to Ischia or to the mainland at Bacoli, but here you will find plenty of welcoming bistros and bars that pass muster.

For a sweet snack with your coffee, try the local ’Lingue di Procida’ (Tongues of Procida), a patisserie made of puff pastry filled with custard.

Scuba Diving While the waters between Ischia and Ventotene are richer in marine mammals, the protected waters around Procida and Vivara contain some great dive sites.

At the northern end, volcanic cliffs, canyons To the south, you will and caverns down to 28m see the islet of Vivara, a contain lots of flora and protected nature reserve fauna, with yellow and accessible to the public white anemones, sponges, via a footbridge, only morays, octopus, scorpion open from Friday to fish and suchlike. To the Sunday. Its thousands south, a wall dive extends of paths are lined with a to 70m, with bigger fish wide range of lush vegeta- including barracudas and tion and rare plants, and large amounts of red coral it is home to wild rabbits teeming with wildlife.

108

gulf·of·naples & isles

capri

W

e skip across the Bay of Napoli to Capri, less than a quarter the size of Ischia and with many more zillionaires per square inch. While other islands in the vicinity are very much about getting away from it all, this small limestone rock is about being in the heart of the action.

capri

Capri has been pulling in the jet set for decades, but many hundreds of years before jets were even dreamt about, emperor Tiberius first put it on the map. He built a dozen villas here, completing the most famous, Villa Jovis, in 27 AD on top of Monte Tiberio, 330 metres up.

The island fell dormant after the emperors passed, but found favour again in the 19th century when writers, artists and poets rediscovered its charms. The glitz came from the 1950s and 60s onwards when the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Onassis

109

would be seen gracing Capri’s cobbled lanes. Today, you’re as likely to run into Taylor Swift or Leonardo diCaprio, as Valentino and ‘King’ James Lebron.

Rule number one about visiting Capri is to avoid August entirely, as it is day-tripper hell. If you know your way around, there are quiet refuges to be found, but if your intention is to see ‘the sights’, just don’t. Not in August, anyway.

Capri is split in two, with sassy Capri Town on the eastern side and Anacapri in the west, where ‘normal’ residents live, usually farmers, fishermen or working in tourism. The two sides are separated by a wall of cliffs and the only way to get around Capri on land is either on foot or by quirky stretched open top taxi.

Staying on the water is an excellent way to enjoy its rugged beauty, as the craggy limestone coastline and surrounding seascape are what make it so special.

110

gulf·of·naples & isles

capri

Coming ashore, stepping off at Marina Grande, make your way due south to the Piazzetta, the heart of the city where everyone comes to see and be seen. From morning coffee until late-night negroni, its four café terraces provide some of the finest peoplewatching on the planet.

From the town square, walk along Via Tragara and on to Belvedere di Tragara, leading to a terrace with a phenomenal view of the Faraglioni, the famous landmark rocks off Capri’s south-eastern tip, with three limestone spurs pointing out of the sea.

111

From this vantage point, there is a footpath leading around the south-eastern corner, eventually bringing you out overlooking Arco Naturale (1.5km, 30 mins walk), giving you stunning views all along the coastline.

If you enjoy a hike, there are some great trails to explore the island, but its beauty is best enjoyed from the water. Taking the tender around, you will find secret coves and caverns and villas perched prone on perilous cliff edges above. The deep blue waters take on Alternatively, head west a whole new dimension from Belvedere di Tragara inside the two grottos on and walk the hairpinned the island, with Grotta Via Krupp, passing a bust Verde on the south coast of Lenin, down to the and the larger, more water’s edge at Marina famous, Grotta Azzurra Piccola and stop off at in the north.

La Canzone del Mare beach club, which is a To enter, you will need great place for a sunbathe to transfer to a smaller and a swim. rowing boat, which may

112

gulf·of·naples & isles

involve a wait, but it also possible to swim inside when it’s quiet, though technically it is forbidden.

The cavern is 60m long and 25m wide at its widest point, lit by the most ethereal blue light, almost a surreal experience. Tiberius had built a quay in the cave around AD 30, complete with a shrine to the water nymph, a nymphaeum. The carved Roman landing stage a the back of the cave remains visible.

Villa Jovis Back on land, among the main sights are the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’s Villa Jovis, a pleasant half-hour walk east out of town.

The view from here was famously described by novelist Graham Greene as “some of the loveliest scenery on earth”. The author had a home on the island for forty years, despite describing it as “not really my kind of place”.

One wouldn’t think Capri to be the kind of place for Vladimir Lenin either, though he famously holidayed here, visiting Maxim Gorky in 1908.

The remains of the villa are sufficient to give a sense of its palatial scale, while fine views over the Sorrento peninsula explain why Tiberius chose to rule

capri

113

from here. At the top of the cliff, ‘Salto di Tiberio’ (Tiberius’ Leap) was also the perfect spot from which the ruthless emperor would throw enemies and subjects to their death.

Villa Jovis was his largest and most sumptuous residence, said to stand over 50 metres tall, with extensive gardens and a bathing complex designed for the kind of debauchery that would make Caligula blush.

Villa Lysis If art nouveau design is your thing, proceed from Villa Jovis to neighbouring Villa Lysis, known locally as Villa Fersen, on the northeastern tip of the island.

The villa was built in 1905

by French industrialist and poet, Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, after he exiled himself following a Parisian sex scandal involving

schoolboys and naked static models [there is a theme developing here...].

The villa, originally named ‘La Gloriette’, had been dedicated by the poet to the ‘youth of love’, but it was the love of youth, rather, that had gotten him into hot water. Now owned by the local authority, the villa has lost some of its former splendour and is virtually empty, but its views are

114

gulf·of·naples & isles

capri

undiminished and it holds a fascinating history of a tortured soul. As an opium addict, Fersen died of suicide in 1923, taking a fatal dose of cocaine mixed with Champagne, drunk from a silver cup.

In the basement, the baron’s smoking den housed a collection of 3,000 opium pipes and was decorated with all manner of symbolic motifs, including a Sanskrit fylfot (swastika) to signify wellbeing.

Villa San Michele Another grand house worth a visit is Villa San Michele, in Anacapri on the northern side of the island. Take the Seggiovia del Monte Solaro, the old-fashioned chairlift, on a breathtaking 13-minute ride to the top of Capri’s tallest peak. Here, you will find Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe, to give it its full unofficial title, built on the site of the ruins of another Roman villa, by Swedish doctor, psychiatrist and author, Axel Munthe.

Munthe had first visited Capri as a teenager and later managed to acquire a ruined chapel

115

on the site, rebuilding it into a sumptuous villa with glorious views.

A ferocious collector, Munthe assembled what is now a museum full of more than a thousand art objects from antiquity up to the 20th century.

From June onwards, the museum also stages classical concerts in the gardens.

Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo If you walk from Villa San Michele back towards the chairlift, walk five minutes further and visit the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, whose unique feature is an 18th century glaze-tiled floor depicting Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, with a range of weird and wonderful creatures. For the best view of the floor, there is a small viewing gallery up the spiral staircase.

Capri Town Life in Capri Town is mostly about shopping, sauntering along its narrow, winding lanes and more shopping, interspersed with

drinking and eating on one of its many terraces, watching everyone else do the same.

The luxury shopping triangle goes from Piazza Umberto I to Via Camerelle and Via Le Botteghe. The usual suspects are ready to help you flex your

plastic, including Cavalli, Ferragamo, Armani, Valentino, Gucci, Pucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Moschino, Tod’s, and so on. There are a number of stores that are ‘musts’ for Capri-specific shopping, such as Le Parisienne, Mariorita, Grazia e Marica Vozza, Amina Rubunacci

116

gulf·of·naples & isles

and l’Arte del Sandalo Caprese, for clothing and sandals. For fragrance Carthusia and for jewellery Chantecler, La Campanina, and La Perla Gioielli are your go-to for Caprese gifts. Or, depending on taste, there is also Capri Watch.

capri

Luckily, there remains room for independent ateliers and boutiques, for that one-off or rarelyspotted item. If it isn’t labels you are after, consider nipping across to Anacapri, where life, and the shopping, is much more low-key.

Weary shoppers can take refuge from retail madness in Giardini di Augusto, the gardens near Certosa di San Giacomo, founded by Emperor Augustus.

Its flowered terraces themselves are pleasant if unremarkable, but they climb to a superb vantage point from where to view the Faraglioni.

117

Dining out There is one Michelin two-starred establishment on the island, with three more within easy reach on the mainland. In Anacapri, L’OLIVO** (+39 081 97 80 111, Via Capodimonte 2) serves creative mediterranean cuisine, such as its signature dish of lemonscented tagliolini with burrata cheese,

red prawns and sea asparagus. The island is also home to two one-star restaurants, with MAMMÀ* (+39 081 837 7472, Via Padre Serafino Cimmino, 6) a two-minute stroll from Piazzetta, and IL RICCIO* (+39 081 837 1380, Via Gradola 4) a taxi or tender ride away in the Capri Palace hotel, on the cliffs of Anacapri.

118

gulf·of·naples & isles

I

pompeii

pompeii

an earthquake virtually leveled the area, leading it to be almost entirely deserted in 62 AD. By the time a violent eruption of Mount Vesuvius finished the job in 79 AD, a remaining population of 2,000 people perished under a layer of pumice stone and ash to a depth of seven metres. The surviving Greco-Roman buildings and monuments that had survived the quake were pristinely preserved, protected from the elements, looting and vandalism, not to be The other side of Mount found until 1,500 years Vesuvius, some 20 km later. Excavation has been south-east of Naples, Pompeii had been a city of ongoing for almost 300 years.

20,000 inhabitants when f you are in the area, stopping off at Pompeii, for even a few hours, is a must. This site continues to reveal insights into ancient city life in Campania, with excavation expected to last for many more years.

As we write in March 2019, there were reports only this week of an ancient ‘fast food’ counter having been found, so now we know that the Romans liked fingerlickin’ chicken too.

First mentioned in 310 BC, Pompeii’s history has seen it founded by Neolithic descendants, occupied by Greeks, Etruscans, the Greeks again, and Samnites, before Rome conquered Campania and subjugated Pompeii’s reluctant occupants in 88 BC.

119

Fast-forwarding to the present day, Pompeii is an amazing assembly of ruins, mosaics, artefacts and sculptures documenting everyday life in Roman times. There are also eerie casts of people who died under the rubble, made from cement poured into the cavities left in the vol-

canic ash, where human remains had decomposed.

Roman life in the region.

Perhaps more telling are the hundreds of private A number of villas, dwellings, documenting temples, tombs, the domestic lives of the colonnades and bath populace, rather than just houses are well preserved, those of the elite. There while there are many are bakeries, complete mosaics, frescoes and with mills, kneading inscriptions that provide machines and ovens, as an insight into Grecowell as tooling shops, garum factories and food and wine shops. EyeFresco in Villa of the Mysteries opening in particular are the remains of a Roman brothel, the ‘Lupanare’, containing fascinating and surprisingly explicit sexual imagery and artefacts.

Lupanare, the most famous ruined brothel

Pornographic frescoes were designed to provide ‘visual inspiration’ for clients, before proceeding to one of the five bedrooms on the ground floor, complete with stone bed and latrine.

Declarations of love and hope are inscribed in the rooms’ walls by the establishment’s workers.

Tip: To get the most out of your visit to Pompeii, we can arrange your transfer and private tour.

120

gulf·of·naples & isles

S

sorrento

sorrento

orrento is more of a gateway to elsewhere than a destination in its own right, given its position central to attractions such as Pompeii and Herculaneum to the north, Amalfi and Positano to the south, and the nearby islands. However, Greeks,

Etruscans, Byzantines, Longobards, Normans, Aragons, Oscans and Romans all left their mark on this place, making it an essential stop on the ‘Grand Tour’, the 17th and 18th-century pilgrimage made by European nobility in search of cultural enrichment.

122

gulf·of·naples & isles

Literary and artistic greats including Byron, Keats, Tolstoy, Dickens, Goethe, Wagner, Ibsen and Nietzsche too spent time in Sorrento, inspired by its deep and colourful cultural history.

Today, Sorrento remains worth a visit, as a picturesque stop on a Tyrrhenian itinerary along the Gulf of Naples.

Narrow cobbled lanes, pastel-coloured old buildings, faded palazzos and churches tucked down the narrow back streets make this an

sorrento

atmospheric town that has perhaps retained its integrity, more than other popular spots on the peninsula.

Stepping off at one of the town’s two marinas, make your way up towards the central square, Piazza Tasso, from where you can take a left down the newly pedestrianised main street, Corso Italia. Sorrento’s main avenue is lined with both high street and designer names, as well as individual boutiques, cafés and bars.

But it is down the side streets where you will find small shops and ateliers making and selling marquetry, ceramics, leather goods, antiques and limoncello, of course, for which the town is famous. In between the shuttered photogenic houses are tucked away the occasional church, small square and palazzo. Sorrento is an Instagrammer’s paradise to explore at leisure.

Sheer cliffs plunging into azure waters is what makes the region so beautiful and Sorrento’s best views are to be had from Villa Comunale park. The park itself is unremarkable, but a small bar and, in the summer, live classical music make the sunset especially romantic. If you prefer to take in the sunset in more comfort and away from T-shirted crowds, head instead for an aperitivo on the fabulous terrace of the art nouveau Grand Hotel Vittoria.

Wherever you are, if you require cash, we can deliver directly to you on board, with all the necessary documentation

CASH TO MASTER SERVICE Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

124

gulf·of·naples & isles

sorrento

Around town, there are some notable churches such as the Duomo, built in the 11th century, rebuilt in the 15th century in Roman style, with an exterior fresco and elegant majolica clock.

The interior features typical local marquetry and unusual 16th century bishop’s throne.

Another is the Basilica di Sant’Antonino, named after Sorrento’s patron saint, credited with a number of miracles including the rescue of a boy from a whale’s stomach, marked by two whale ribs displayed inside the entrance. The saint’s remains lie in the crypt beneath the church’s beautiful floor, while the display of silver coins from grateful sailors, devoted to the saint are worth seeing.

Heading away from the coast, behind Piazza Tasso, there is a striking deep valley, dating from a volcanic eruption some 36,000 years ago.

Looking down from Via Fuorimura, the ground below was home to 13th

125

century flour mills, operating until 1866.

Now overgrown, the ruins of Vallone dei Mulino are a dramatic sight.

Two museums worth a visit are Museo Correale di Terranova housing the family art collection of Count Terranova, comprising a wide range of Neapolitan paintings and artefacts and large collection of 18th century European clocks. The palazzo also has beautiful gardens with many rare plants and flowers, as well as glorious views of Vesuvius and Naples.

The other is Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea, which is mainly devoted to the local art of marquetry, but also holds a series of paintings

by Italian and other 19th century artists, such as Carelli, Pitloo, Volpe, Colemann and Scedrin.

Dining out There are a host of single Michelin-starred restaurants either in town or within striking distance. But for two-star excellence, consider DON ALFONSO 1890** (+39 081 87 80 026, Corso Sant Agata 11, Sant Agata), a 20-minute drive south, for creative Mediterranean cuisine in a luxurious dining room and a wine cellar housed in extraordinary caves. By tender, head for Port of Seiano, where TORRE DEL SARACINO** (+39 081 80 28 555, Via Torretta 9, Marina Equa) stands next to a military watchtower overlooking the bay, showcasing distinctive southern Italian cuisine.

126

gulf·of·naples & isles

O

positano

positano

ne of the most picturesque places on Earth, Positano’s appeal is obvious. Pastel coloured houses almost defy gravity as they perch, stacked on top of one another, against the sheer cliffs of this most glorious piece of coastline.

Positano is mostly about aesthetics than a cultural destination, though Greeks and Phoenicians were early visitors, while the Roman ruling classes built grand villas here.

Its name stems from the Greek god, Poseidon.

This former fishing village of only 4,000 inhabitants is now mainly

about tourism and has been an essential part of any Amalfi itinerary for decades, since the American Nobel and Pulitzer-winning author, John Steinbeck, put it on the map. In a 1953 essay in Harper’s Bazaar he wrote of Positano, “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”

127

128

gulf·of·naples & isles Western·Italy·&·Isles

Before Steinbeck’s intervention, the village had fallen from grace, with much of its wealth dissipated since its glory days as a major trading centre in the Amalfi Republic up to the 17th century. But from the 1950s onwards, the great and the good from stage, screen and music have been regular visitors here. Nowadays, it also an essential stop for yachts, of course, at anchor in the bay.

Making your way ashore, you will pass the Sirenuse archipelago, also known locally as Li Galli (the Cocks).

It is a trio of small islands, mythically once occupied

positano

by sirens including Parthenope, Leucosia, and Ligeia, responsible for tempting weak-kneed sailors onto the rocks.

In the real world, however, it was a former monastery, then a prison.

Russian choreographer and dancer Leonide Massine purchased Gallo Lungo in 1922, converting the prison into a villa.

It was acquired by his friend, Rudolf Nureyev, in 1988, who lived here until his death in 1993.

Positano’s beaches, Spiaggia Grande and Spiaggia del Fornillo are about their views and crystal waters, rather

than beautiful sands, while its shopping is more boutiquey, arty, crafty than high-end label.

Positano was the first place in Italy to stock bikinis in the 1960s and swimwear fashion remains a strong tradition. It’s just a fabulous place to relax, wander about and soak up the ambience.

Positano isn’t pristine and doesn’t have the glitz of Capri; it feels like ‘old money’ and is more low key. So, if you seek atmosphere with fewer paparazzi lurking in the wisteria, this is the place for you.

S A L E R N O

AMALFI COAST BUNKER PORTO TURISTICO MARINA D’ARECHI SALERNO

Sabato De Vivo Resp. Commerciale

Cell. +39 347.3118207

info@facomgas.it www.facomgas.it www.marinadarechi.com

positano

Dining out There are umpteen Michelin-rated eateries to choose from in the vicinity, particularly with a tender at your disposal. However, for dining in Positano itself, there are two excellent single-starred establishments to decide between.

LA SPONDA, (+39 089 875 066, Via Colombo 30) in the legendary ‘Le Sirenuse’ hotel, is particularly noted for its sea food menu. A romantic dining room is lit nightly with 400 candles, while its terrace has a wonderful westerly view across the bay, looking out over the Sirenusas archipelago.

LA SERRA (+39 089 811 980, Via Marconi 127) in Le Agavi hotel, is at the opposite end of town, with its terrace looking out in an easterly direction.

A young chef here is making waves with cutting edge Neapolitan cuisine, specialising in sea food, but with plenty of choice too for carnivores. For a special dinner-for-two, there is a tiny private terrace with a single table.

Drinking For an aperitif without a sea view, you could do worse than head for the botanic gardens of PALAZZO MURAT. This grand 18th century hotel’s secluded courtyard bar is a private haven away from prying eyes.

If it’s a sea view you are after with your Prosecco, BUCA DI BACCO (+39 39 089 875 699, Via Rampa Teglia 4) has been an institution for more than a hundred years, with its veranda looking out over the beach. It’s a buzzy spot, from where you can observe the port’s

131

132

gulf·of·naples & isles Western·Italy·&·Isles

comings and goings from a discreet distance. Dinner here is informal, but highly commended.

Like everywhere in this part of the world, Limoncello is ubiquitous, but for something particular to Positano, head to snack bar, L’ALTERNATIVA, by the

positano

pier. This tiny blue shack is a simple kiosk by day, but turns into a lively, no-frills bar by night, frequented by revellers of all ages. Its claim to fame is a special cocktail named after its proprietor, the L’Albertissimo, made of lemon granita mixed with peach vodka and grenadine, served in plastic cups.

Tip: If you have time, the energy and the appropriate footwear, take a hike up to Montepertuso, perched high above Positano. The views from here are even more stunning, while the terrace of a popular family restaurant, LA TAGLIATA (+39 089 875 872, Via Tagliata 32b, Positano) probably has one of the finest dining views in the Mediterranean.

amalfi·coast

amalfi “The day of judgment, for the Amalfi people who will go to heaven, will be a day like any other.”

Renato Fucini, 1877

T

he Amalfi coast is only 60 kilometres long, of which Amalfi, the town, is just a tiny part. Today it is a village with a population of 5,000 people, but in its 9th century glory days, the Duchy of Amalfi republic was Italy’s oldest maritime republic.

As a 70,000-strong nation, Amalfi served as a major commercial centre, rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice as a major naval

trading power with the Byzantine East. It traded grain from the region, salt from Sardinia, as well as slaves and timber, in exchange for Egyptian and Syrian gold coins, with which it used to buy Byzantine silks, to be resold in the West.

The importance of that age is celebrated each June with the ‘Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics’, competing over a number

133

134

gulf·of·naples & isles Western·Italy·&·Isles

of events. Hosting the festival rotates between the four cities and returns to Amalfi in 2020. The coastal region was famous for its schools of law and mathematics, whose student, Flavio Gioia, was considered to have invented the modern compass circa 1300. His statue stands in the town.

Not much of its former naval glory is visible today, having suffered badly at the hands of an earthquake in 1343, which caused much of the town to simply crumble into the sea. Its topography is flatter than neighbouring towns and villages and you can walk the length of the town in 15 minutes.

Amalfi has been a popular holiday destination for esteemed visitors since the 19th century and it became popular in the 1920s with the British aristocracy. The only two attractions of note are its Byzantine cathedral and a small paper museum, as the town was one of the

amalfi·coast

first centres of handmade paper (‘bambagina’) making in Europe, a skill Amalfitans learned from the Arabs.

Amalfi is worth a stop, for a saunter along its pretty promenade, with smaller crowds of visitors than its neighbours.

ravello

M

ravello

oving along the coast, Ravello, suspended 300 metres above the sea, is a green and peaceful hanging garden, whose views are probably the finest in all of Amalfi.

For this reason, Ravello is home to many grand

villas, the most famous of which is Villa Rufalo, built on the ruins of the 13th century ruins of a noble palace. Visiting its gardens in 1880, Richard Wagner was inspired to complete his final opera, Parsifal, with which he had toiled for twenty years. He stayed

135

in Ravello long enough to complete it, just three years before his death.

Gore Vidal held court in his villa, ‘La Rondinaia’ (The Swallow’s Nest), which he called his ‘perch’.

The town repaid Wagner’s homage by creating the annual Ravello Music Festival, also referred to as the Wagner Festival.

Staged in the grounds of

136

gulf·of·naples & isles Western·Italy·&·Isles

Villa Rufalo, the festival has hosted the likes of the London Symphony Orchestra, St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra and conductors such as Daniel Barenboim and Zubin Mehta. The busy summer programme, from June to midSeptember, also includes other genres, having featured jazz greats such as Herbie Hancock and Wayne Shorter in recent years. Programmes are published at the end of April, so we were unable to include the 2019 lineup here; for details, visit www.ravello.com/events/ ravello-festival.

ravello

Other artists who have drawn inspiration from Ravello include DH Lawrence, who wrote ‘Lady Chatterley’s Lover’ here, while Nobelwinning author, André Gide observed that “Ravello is closer to the sky than the sea.” Greta Garbo, who famously said

that she wanted to be alone, was another visitor.

You may not be entirely alone during your visit to Ravello, but it does draw fewer tourists than its coastal neighbours.

Dining out For dinner with a glorious view, consider the Michelinstarred ROSSELLINIS* in Hotel Palazzo Avino (+39 089 81 81 81, Via San Giovanni del Toro 28).

If you have had your fill of beautiful views, Rossellinis also has a Chef’s Table for four, next to the kitchen. For wine and cheese lovers, the Sommelier’s Table is a romantic candlelit dinner for two in the ‘Wine Library’, set in a small cave.

atrani·minori

A

atrani

trani feels like authentic Amalfi, a fishing village with a population of under a thousand, seemingly untouched by mass tourism. The townlet is a warren of narrow, winding lanes, marked by alleyways, arches, small courtyards and steps. Its only landmark, Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena, is a large, 13th century baroque church, standing tall above the water’s edge with fabulous views. Ornately decorated and well maintained by locals, it is worth climbing its steps for a closer look.

D

137

minori

ating back to its earliest known settlement in 1 AD, Minori is the oldest town on the Amalfi coast.

Less picturesque than its better known neighbours, it is today a working village that has its roots in the manufacture of handmade pasta. Minori has a pleasant enough beach and attractive seafront, but it is its food heritage that is perhaps its greatest appeal.

In the 18th century, many of the flour mills and pasta factories that had set up along the Reghinna Minor river upped sticks to Gragnano, but the pasta-making tradition remained. The town’s speciality is scialatielli, which

Atrani

Minori

many local restaurants serve up with enormous pride. Another dish from the region is ancient ‘ndunderi’ (pron. doon~der~ee), which are gnocchi-like dumplings originally made with spelt flour and curdled milk.

The river is the primary reason for the splendid ‘Villa Marittima Romana’ to be located here, one of the most important monuments on this coastline. Dating back some 2,000 years, the impressive villa is thought to have been the seaside residence of a member of the imperial court, choosing this spot along the Reghinna Minor to fill its swimming pool and baths. It retains a number of original frescoes and mosaics.

138

gulf·of·naples & isles

Minori’s cathedral, dedicated Santa Trofimena, was restored in the 19th century and has three light-filled aisles and a 17th century marble pulpit. The lower basilica houses the relics of the town’s patron saint.

T

minori·maiori

Pastry lovers should flock to ‘Sal de Riso’, named after the eponymous pastry chef, who is somewhat of a celebrity in Italy. His award-winning pastry workshop has won international recognition, famous for its lemon

desserts, and setting new standards for desserts ranging from doughnuts to tiramisù. Should you find yourself in the area during the second week in September, the town’s ‘GustaMinori’ food festival is a good time to visit.

maiori

wo of the best beaches to be found on the Amalfi coast are in Maiori. Due to a disastrous flood in 1954, much of the historic centre was destroyed, giving the rebuilt town a more modern look than surrounding places.

As Maiori is no stranger to the package holiday industry, it is definitely worth avoiding its sandy charms in peak season.

Though also for this reason, should you have bored youngsters in your party, the town is livelier and has more entertainment on offer than other Amalfi destinations.

Dining out For dining in the immediate area, head east from Maiori to the headland of Capo d’Orso, where the elegant IL FARO DI CAPO D’ORSO* (+39 089 87 70 22, Via Diego Taiani 48, Maiori) offers Michelin-starred cuisine and service, matched by views the length of the Amalfi coast, with Capri visible in the distance.

Using the best florist at our disposal we can make sure that your floral arrangements are prepared with the finest quality flowers, specifically to your design

FRESH FLOWER DELIVERY Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

144

italy

tuscany

monte·argentario

monte·argentario Cruising from Sardinia or Rome towards Viareggio, consider stopping off at delightful Argentario and Elba.

M

onte Argentario’s most recent claim to global fame was as the spot where the cruise ship, Costa Concordia, ran aground, part sinking as it charted a fatal course between here and nearby Isola del Giglio. Until this tragic event, it had been a little-known exclusive

promontory, where the rich and famous holiday in peace. At the southern end of the Tuscan coast, just two hours’ drive from Rome, it is to affluent Romans what the Hamptons are to Manhattan’s wealthy. With many houses here being second homes and without much external tourism, Monte

Argentario, on the Silver Coast, is a particularly good place to stop out of peak season.

At the north of Argentario is Porto Santo Stefano, a 15th century settlement built around an attractive port. Heavily bombed by the Allies in WWII, to prevent occupying forces

145

from supplying their regional strongholds, much of the town needed to be rebuilt in the 1950s.

Places of interest include Forte Filippo, built by the Spanish in early 1558 in the time of King Filippo II. The fort was designed The port is a pleasant place as a lookout, blending to relax and watch the into the surrounding comings and goings, with countryside at the top small fishing boats landing of a mound in between their catch from the what are now two lagoon. Nearby are some marinas on the eastern pleasant bays to explore by side. It became a prison tender and while this area’s in the 19th century, but beaches may not win any is now private housing. awards, you will not find For a terrific view over them overcrowded. If it’s a the promontory and sandy beach and a snorkel surroundings it is worth you crave, skip across to the climb. nearby Giglio, which has them in abundance and is In the immediate area also popular with scuba on the mainland, there divers. are a number of places

of interest a short drive away.

Giardino dei Tarocchi,

by French artist, Niki de Saint Phalle, was inspired

by Antonio Gaudí ‘s Parc Güell in Barcelona. This monumental sculpture park, opened in 1998, contains 22 mosaicked monumental figures inspired by tarot symbols. Not a high art experience, but it’s something strikingly different and the park is popular with children, in particular.

150

italy

tuscany

monte·argentario

Capalbio is a charming medieval town with the fortress of Aldobrandeschi towering above the red roofs of surrounding houses. Fortified by the Sienese in the 15th century, the hilltop town was long a favourite hideout for bandits, standing over a valley of brushland, making for a perfect lookout.

Golf The golf course at Argentario is rated among the 10 best in Italy and while reviews are not universally glowing, the Mezzacane, Dassù and Jorgensen-designed course makes for a challenge with glorious views (+39 0564 888525, Via Acquedotto Leopoldino, 58018 Porto Ercole).

Cycling The area is popular for on- and off-road cycling, with a large 44km MTB race taking place in early spring each year. Dates for 2020 were unknown at time of publication, but check here for details: www.argentariobike.it

Dining Argentario is renowned for its seafood and the promontory boasts many good local restaurants. The region also produces many excellent wines and our local partners, Argentario Yacht Services, will be delighted to arrange your private wine-tasting tour.

There is one Michelin-starred restaurant on Argentario, in the south east of the promontory. Located in the hotel of the same name, IL PELLICANO* (+39 056 48 58 111, Località lo Sbarcatello, Porto Ercole) has a romantic dining room and terrace overlooking the lagoon, with a reputation for superb Italian food. In the north, Michelin also notes L’OSTE DISPENSA (+39 056 48 20 085 Strada Provinciale Giannella 113) and GOURMET CON GUSTO (+39 056 48 12 735, Strada Provinciale Giannella 161).

Tip: Our friends at Argentario Yacht Services are on hand to provide any support you require and make any necessary arrangements on the spot. +39 338 25 20 211, info@argentarioyachtservices.com

elba

E

elba

lba is Italy’s third largest island after Sicily and Sardinia and the largest of seven islands in the Tuscan Archipelago, with a population of 30,000.

Its most famous resident in history is Napoleon Bonaparte, who chose to enter exile here when Elba was under French control, in 1814, after being ousted following a heavy defeat at Leipzig.

The French former emperor remained here

for only ten months before returning to France, though not before entirely transforming its infrastructure and its economic fortunes.

Elba’s history is rich and interesting, with Etruscans, Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Spanish, French and the Medici all having settled in at some point, leaving behind their mark. They were after some of the world’s oldest known iron ore deposits and the island’s strategic location in this part of the Mediterranean.

151

Today’s visitors are generally holiday makers drawn to its countless bays and beaches, beautiful varied landscape and cuisine. As ever, Elba is worth avoiding in August, when locals from Livorno or Florence are joined by thousands of package tourists from all over Europe, but even then, it is usually possible to find a quiet spot by boat, away from the crowds.

If it’s not beach life you are looking for, the island’s varied terrain offers great hiking and cycling, horse riding, or wine-tasting, among other pursuits. Scuba divers have some 30 dive sites to choose from here.

Sightseers have Etruscan fortifications, Pisan and Appian towers, or Medicean and Spanish fortresses to visit, while there are museums

152

italy

dedicated to Napoleon and to Elba’s mineral production, among others. Also worthwhile is taking the stand-up cable car to the top of Monte Capanne. From Marciana, it is a 20-minute ride in a two-person open gondola, the reward for which is a birds-eye view of the whole island from its highest peak of 1020 metres.

Dining No Michelin stars on Elba, but there is good food to be had everywhere.

The guide does note four outstanding restaurants, two in the north-west, two in the south-east;

tuscany

ELBA

Right by Marciana marina, CAPO NORD (+39 056 59 96 983, Al Porto, La Fenicia 69) is located on the waterfront, offering mainly a sea food menu, while a short walk from here, SCARABOCI (+39 056 59 96 868, Via XX Settembre 27) is described by the guide as “a gastronomic gem”, which lacks the view, but offers greater choice for carnivores.

Over east, SAPERETA (+39 056 59 50 33, Via Provinciale Ovest 73, Mola) is a rustic agritourism hotel and restaurant, overing no frills, but serving only wine and oil, fruit and vegetables

from its own farm and sources organic meats and cheeses in Tuscany.

Also commended is IL CHIASSO (+39 056 59 68 709, Vicolo Nazario Sauro 13, Capoliveri), tucked away in the noisy lanes of atmospheric Capoliveri, for an interesting wine list and wide-ranging menu.

Tip: For assistance or local expertise to make the most out of your stop on Elba, contact our colleagues at Sacomar Yacht Agency (+39 0565 914797, info@sacomar.it)

viareggio

W Tip: For refits up to 50m, Arpeca has been established here since 1992, with state-ofthe-art facilities in its 6,000 sq. m yard (+39 0584 388855, info@arpeca.it)

153

viareggio

hile perhaps not a cruising destination, Viareggio is of course one of the major yachting centres in the Mediterranean, as the home of a number of the largest shipyards and many excellent refit facilities. One way or another, many owners, captains and crew find themselves spending time

here or passing through.

With the Ligurian coast to the north and the Tuscan countryside on its doorstep, there are worse places to have to spend time. The town itself is a low-level beach resort, though with more desirable coastline to found only a stone’s throw away, the sands of Viareggio don’t have tremendous appeal.

154

italy

tuscany

viareggio

Activities The area around Viareggio is popular for horse riding, cycling and hiking, with the Apuan Alps just inland. One particular hike offers a unique feature popular with crew, especially. Take an organised hike with Associazione Garfagnana Guide (www.garfagnanaguide. it), who will lead you to the top of Monte Farato, where a natural arch has a swing suspended from it. At 750 metres, it provides the most phenomenal views as you ‘fly’ over the valley, taking in the breathtaking alpine scenery.

Altalena del Monte Forato - credit: Associazione Garfagnana Guide

Carnival Should you find yourself here during February, the town’s annual carnival at weekends is unmissable and is one of the larger events of its kind in Europe. The event is 146 years old and draws some 600,000 people over the month, making it a grand spectacle and putting the whole town in party mode. In 2020, the first parade takes place on Saturday Feb 1st, with the final extravaganza on Mardi Gras on Feb 25th.

Photo credit: event’s website (Barbarians di Fabrizio Galli, the 2016 winner)

155

Tip: For fuel and lube in Viareggio at preferential rates, contact our partners at Termopetroli (+39 0584 383984, bunker@termopetroliversilia.com). For local yacht agent support, contact our friends at at Superyacht Services (+39 0584 46553, info@superyachtservices.it).

Music

for bird watching. For hunting today, Tuscany Opera lovers should head has much to offer guns, to neighbouring Torre del with boar, deer and Lago, just 15 minutes by pheasant in abundance car, which was the home in countryside around of Giacomo Puccini, Italy’s Florence, San Gimignano second-most famous and Lucca. The composer composer. Born in nearby and his family are buried Lucca, Puccini spent most in the mausoleum in the of his free time here, at nearby chapel, and his his villa on the lake built works are celebrated in in 1900, which is now a an annual music festival museum. during July and August.

As a keen huntsman Dining —of both wildfowl and women— Puccini loved The area is known for its to indulge his passion for fine food, at all levels. duck shooting in the reeds Viareggio itself boasts of Massaciuccoli Lake. The a two-star and a onearea’s fertile soil provides star Michelin-rated a rich variety of flora and restaurant, though there fauna here and it remains are plenty of excellent a popular destination local options too.

On the fifth floor of Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte —the setting for Crew Network’s annual Captains’ Christmas Dinner— IL PICCOLO PRINCIPE** (+39 0584 4011) has a panoramic roof garden where many a prospective new owner is schmoozed. For seafood, ROMANO* (+39 0584 31382, Via Mazzini 120) has been deeply satisfying diners for more than 50 years.

If you prefer not to stray far from the marina, IL PORTO (+39 0584 384733, Via M. Coppino 118) is an excellent choice. Popular with crew, SANTA MONICA (+39 0584 370600, Via Michele Coppino 409) just around the corner, is a casual restaurant serving quality sea food.

However, our secret tip, if you have owners’ taste but deckhand budget, is BAR REMO (+39 0584 384739, Via dei Pescatori 11A). It is a tiny café, serving top-notch cuisine at regular prices, at the hands of a chef with many years’ experience in Michelin-starred kitchens.

WELCOME TO “BELLEZZA”

CINQUE TERRE PORTOVENERE LA SPEZIA CARRARA FORTE DEI MARMI VIAREGGIO PISA LIVORNO

The Yacht Agents in Tuscany and Liguria Vannucci Maritime Group, established in 1825, is presently the leading group for yachts calling along the tuscan and the ligurian coast.

www.vannuccigroup.it

Available to its clients 24 hours a day the Group provides an assortment of high quality services ranging from port booking, travel excursions, provisioning, clearences, repairs, VIP transfers, and everything else you may need.

info@superyachtservices.it

24 hrs +39 328 0579847

158

italy

tuscany

PISA

Map data ©2019 Google

J

pisa

ust ten kilometres from the mouth of the River Arno, Pisa can be reached easily by boat. This former maritime force that competed for supremacy with Genoa, Venice and, for a short while, Amalfi, is now known primarily for its famous leaning tower.

Pisa’s maritime prowess was curtailed in 1284, when it was defeated by the republic of Genoa in the Battle of Meloria, an inconspicuous speck of rock opposite Livorno.

Pisa is predominantly an aviation access point to surrounding Tuscany

and apart from seeing ’Torre Pendente’, the neighbouring basilica and Camposanto in the Piazza dei Miracoli, visitors don’t tend to linger too long.

However, being only a short hop from Viareggio, there is enough to Pisa to make a day of it.

The tower itself is surprisingly small in the flesh for such a globallyrecognised landmark; rather like Manneken Pis in Brussels or the mermaid in Copenhagen.

The eight-storey marble bell tower was designed to stand straight at 60m, but rather like Pisa’s warfare, things didn’t go to plan when weakness in the subsoil caused it to tilt

159

even after the completion of only three storeys.

Over time, building continued undeterred, with foundation repairs carried out simultaneously, though by 1990 the tower stood 10° off the vertical. Since then, repairs have pulled it back to narrow the slant to under 4°, which experts suggest will endure for the next three hundred years.

Rest of Pisa Pisa has one of Italy’s top universities, lending the city a youthful vibrancy.

After a city-wide clean-up of public spaces recently, there are well-kept Romanesque buildings, churches and piazzas, particularly on the south side of the river.

New or revamped arts and events spaces include Arsenale Mediceo (the

Medici shipyard), housed in an 800-year old red brick former armoury, housing a permanent exhibition on the excavation of the Roman ships of Pisa. Palazzo Blu is a renovated 14th century building standing on the banks of the river, with an outré 19th century decor, showing Pisan works from the 14th to the 20th centuries, as well as visiting exhibitions.

Tip: It is possible to climb the 269 steps to the top of the bell tower. It is advisable to book tickets in advance and visits last 35 minutes, while all bags must be checked in next to the ticket desk.

160

italy

tuscany

PISA

Shopping The best boutique shopping to be found in Pisa is in Borgo Stretto, also the location of Galileo Galilei’s birthplace. Via Mercanti and Via dei Rigattieri are best for books, paintings and antiquities, and if it is antiques you are after, the Antique and Handicraft Fair on the second weekend each month (except Jul/Aug) is worth a visit, held in the streets around the botanical gardens, north of the river.

Events Luminara of San Ranieri (June 16th, annually) Each year, Pisans celebrate their patron saint, San Ranieri, with a river regatta on June 17th, preceded at dusk each June 16th with a magical celebration.

The riverbank, bridges and buildings are lined with 70,000 candles, while 120,000 more are floated down the river, followed by a fireworks display. The leaning tower is also lit up top-to-toe with oil lamps.

This special tradition dates back to 1688. Legend has it that San Ranieri was born to a wealthy family in 1118 and had a vision one night of an eagle carrying light, instructing him to guide people who lived in darkness into the light. It inspired him to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, where he lived for thirteen years, helping the poor.

He returned to Pisa to become a priest and devoted himself to helping the needy. He lies buried in the cathedral.

florence·in·a·day

F

florence

lorence is likely to leave you wanting more after a one-day whistlestop visit, with so much culture and history to explore. The city is compact and feels like a village, though there is an awful lot to see and one can easily spend a whole week, month or even year here, if it’s culture you are looking for. But if a day is all you have, it is possible to scratch the surface, so here are some suggested highlights.

Galleria dell’Accademia

161

Tip: A guide is recommended, to get the most out of your visit. If you want to dig deeper for a return visit, or see the best of Florence for the first time, enlist our assistance. Our local tour operator has access to exclusive sites, hardto-get tickets and other exclusive, tailored experiences. Whether it’s your first visit to Florence or your hundredth, they’ll be able to surprise you by revealing some aspects of the city you’ve never experienced before.

Most famous for its Renaissance sculptures by Michelangelo, Prisoners (or Slaves), St. Matthew and the magnificent statue of David draw hundreds of thousands of visitors to the museum each year. Accademia also has great works by Botticelli, Ghirlandaio, Pontormo and others, part of the former collection of the powerful Medici family. The most recent section is the Museum of Musical Instruments, displaying one-of-a-kind masterpieces by Stradivari and Bartolomeo Cristofori, inventor of the piano, commissioned by the Medici.

162

italy

Santa Maria del Fiore, ‘Il Duomo’

tuscany

florence·in·a·day

the ‘Gates of Paradise’ to the Baptistery. Like many of the cathedral’s Brunelleschi’s duomo is original interior features, one of the most famous these are replicas, with in Italy and beyond. Built the originals now housed between 1431 and 1888, in the Opera del Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore museum, for conservation cathedral’s brick dome is purposes. The cathedral the largest in the world, opens to the public at sat atop an imposing pink, 08:30h, though combined white and green marble, access to the dome (463 neo-Gothic, 19th century steps up), bell tower, facade. Inside, among baptistery, crypt and the main attractions are museum is ticketed the giant bronze doors, separately.

163

Loggia dei Lanzi (also Loggia della Signoria) Accessible day or night, this remarkable openair sculpture gallery showcases a range of Renaissance art, housed in a covered, arched piazza adjoining the Uffizi Gallery. Selected by the Medici for their aesthetics, sculptures by the likes of Giambologna and Cellini represent significant historical events.

Works here include the striking bronze of Perseus, which took nine

years to cast, holding a sword in one hand and the decapitated head of Medusa in the other.

There are bronzes of Jupiter, Mercurius, Minerva and Danaë.

Carved from the largest block of marble brought to Florence, ‘The Rape of the Sabine Women’ depicts an incident in Roman mythology, of a mass abduction by Roman men of young women from other cities in the region. There are several other notable marbles worth a closer look, including six marble female figures brought from Trajan’s Foro in Rome to Florence in 1789.

With your back to the sculpture gallery, walk down Via Calimaruz towards Mercato Nuovo.

‘IL Porcellino’ Boar Fountain A Florentine ritual rather than a cultural stop, should you be passing Mercato Nuovo, you will find here the bronze statue of a boar. Originally installed as a fountain to

supply water to market traders, tradition is to rub the porcine snout and place a coin in its mouth, letting it fall into the grate below. Legend has it that it brings good luck or ensures a return to Florence. Whichever it is, the proceeds go to a local children’s charity, so if your folding currency is of a plastic variety, perhaps try that too?

The fountain today is a copy of the 1612 original (by Pietro Tacca, pupil of Giambologna, now in the Bardini Museum), which in turn is a bronze replica of a marble statue in the Uffizi Gallery.

164

italy

If the swine looks familiar, that may be because copies have sprung up in Australia, Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, the UK and USA. Uffizi Gallery Plan ahead or order a guide to take you around the Uffizi’s 101 rooms and halls. Housing the world’s finest

tuscany

florence·in·a·day

collection of Renaissance paintings by Botticelli, Raphael, Titian, Da Vinci, Caravaggio and others, this is the museum to visit. Highlights include Boticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ and ‘Allegory of Spring’, Lippi’s ‘Madonna and Child’, da Vinci’s ‘Annunciation’ and ‘Holy Family’, and Raphael’s ‘Madonna of the Goldfinch’.

Basilica of Santa Croce Basilica of Santa Croce is not only a beautiful church with frescoes by Giotto, but is also the final resting place of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. Another

famous son of Florence, Dante Alighieri, was exiled from his birthplace and buried in Ravenna, though he too has a memorial here.

Another work of note here is Pio Fedi’s ‘The Liberty of Poetry’, which inspired Bartholdi’s ‘Statue of Liberty’, when the French artist visited Florence and saw the drawings and maquettes of Fedi’s tribute to playwright Giovanni Battista Niccolini.

Notable in the work is the nod to the goddess Diana and Isis, meaning that even New York has been touched by Roman mythology.

165 Credit: Wikimedia

Ponte Vecchio Ponte Vecchio isn’t the world’s prettiest bridge, but it is one of the most recognisable.

Built in 1345, it was the only surviving bridge in Florence not to be blown up by German forces retreating in 1944, electing instead to blow up access at one end. A stone bridge has stood at

this point across the Arno since 972, evolving over the centuries and rebuilt after the 1966 flood all but demolished it.

The bridge is best known for its jewellers’ shops, which were preceded by butchers, fishmongers and tanners. However, these traders were evicted by Ferdinando I de Medici in the 16th

century, when the private ‘Vasari Corridor’ was added above, enabling Medici family members to walk between the Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti without mixing with the riffraff.

But the smell of offcuts thrown into the river created an unpleasant stench, so the trades were ordered off the bridge, to be replaced by goldsmiths.

166

italy

tuscany

florence·in·a·day

Trivia: Shops used to be owned by the local authority and rented out to traders. However, should anyone be unable to pay their rent, soldiers would smash their counter or bench (‘banco’), making them unable to trade. With a broken (‘rotto’) counter, the trader would be declared ‘banco rotto’, or ‘bankrupt’.

During the 15th century the shops were sold to private owners, who added terraces and rooms onto the superstructure, giving it the shambolic appearance of today.

Some of Florence’s top jewellers can still be found here, though with the proliferation of tourists, there is plenty of tat among the odd gem.

Sunset If you don’t have time, try to make time. There is only one way to round off the day in this most romantic of cities and that is to take in the Florence sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo. On a hill south of the Arno between Ponte alle Grazie and Ponte S. Niccolò, this terrace overlooks the entire city, with a view that is unmistakable.

Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Brioni, Cesare Pacotti, Chanel, Dior, Fendi, Givenchi, Hussein Chalayan, Loro Piana, Malo and Pollini to name a few. Jewellery and watch brands are here There are countless more stunning churches, too, including Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercer, palazzi and gardens to visit, of course. But if time Breguet, Chopard, and Vacheron Constantin. is tight, the best way to explore Florence for the Perhaps more interesting first, second, third time or more, is to let our local are the artisan, bespoke and vintage stores for guides guide you. which Florence has become a top destination.

Shopping

N

ot only is Florence spoilt for choice with culture; it has big label couture in abundance too, mostly centred around Via Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova.

Independent clothing and jewellery boutiques can be found mostly in Santo Spirito and Santa Croce areas.

Armani, Pucci, Prada and Gucci all hail from here and have been joined in the ensuing years by

For artisan fragrance, visit Lorenzo Villoresi House, AquaFlor Firenze and Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, set in beautifully restored frescoed boutique. For costume jewellery, Angela Caputi Giugiù and Ornella Aprosio make stunning jewellery and accessories locally, following age old traditions.

Rosso Firenze specialises in vintage handmade Art Deco-style pieces, but also stocks modern costume jewellery.

We work with providers to supply the highest quality provisions

PROVISIONING Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

168

italy

Stefano Bemer is the shoemaker famed for employing Daniel DayLewis as an apprentice cobbler in 1999, before making it as an actor.

Specialising in calfskin, Bemer’s successor continues the founder’s quest to create perfect, stunning footwear, handmade by a team of local artisans. Stefano Ricci offers refined tailoring, with handmade garments using the finest materials. Trademark cufflinks are handmade by master goldsmiths using gold, platinum, diamond and a host of semi-precious stones, mother-of-pearl and enamel.

For exquisite hand-bound books and stationery, Il Torchia is part-shop, part-studio, that will custom make unique pieces to order. Atelier Scriptorium Firenze is a tiny atelier-shop, making handcrafted leather-bound albums and books, desk accessories; calligraphy pens, wax seals and other personalised items.

tuscany

florence·in·a·day

Fittingly, leather goods brand Il Bisonte was born in Florence in 1970, on the site of the ex-stables of Palazzo Corsini, and still hand-makes bags and accessories here.

Leather school, Scuola del Cuoio, is located in a 13th-century church, founded by Franciscan

monks to teach WWI orphans a trade. Visitors can watch leathersmiths at work, with pieces made of calfskin, deer, ostrich, alligator and python sold on-site. You can book private lessons with a Scuola del Cuoio Master Craftsman and learn how to make your own accessory.

169

For gloves, the tiny Madova shop, next to its factory, has been selling handmade items since 1919 near Ponte Vecchio.

They will take your requirements and measure your hands, to ensure you have the best possible fit.

For porcelain and ceramics, Richard Ginori’s Florence flagship store has stood here since 1802.

Acquired by fellow Florentine house, Gucci, in 2014, it is one of the most elegant stores in the city.

Antiques and collectibles dealers tend to be concentrated around Maggio, Via de’ Fossi and

near Piazza Beccaria.

For vintage furnishings and home accessories, Bottega di Corte is now a popular supplier to local interior designers, from old prints and maps to gilded frames, candelabras, clocks, and antique tea sets, there are many delightful things to peruse.

For vintage clothing and accessories, Marie Antoinette in Piazetta dei Del Bene stocks some rare finds, as well as unusual new pieces. Boutique

Nadine has two branches selling vintage furniture and accessories like fine Italian silks and leather goods.

Dining For three-star Michelin excellence, ENOTECA PINCHIORRI*** (+39 055 24 27 77, Via Ghibellina, 87) has for decades created haute cuisine at the highest level in Italy, featuring the best of Tuscan, Italian and international cuisine, along with a world class wine list.

170

italy

J

tuscany

lucca

lucca

ust half an hour’s drive from Viareggio, Lucca is perfect for a day trip if you have time on your hands, unless you plan to visit its one hundred churches, of course.

There is something about Lucca that’s different from all of Tuscany, with a heart that beats its to its own drum. Fiercely independent until 1847, when it finally ceded control to the Duchy of Tuscany, the city had more than 2,000 years of rich history as an autonomous city state, by virtue of its ability to reinvent itself repeatedly.

A brief history of Lucca Founded by the Etruscans, Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC, growing into a prosperous city central to the Empire, with a ‘cardo’ (a north-south Roman road) and a ‘decumanus’ (an east-west road) running through it. A forum and an amphitheatre followed, as testament of Lucca’s importance to Rome.

Lying in a wide valley between the Pizzorne and Pisani mountains, the first city walls, for which Lucca is famous, were erected to fortify it. In 55 BC the city gained prominence as the place where Julius Caesar, Marcus Licinius Crassus, and Gnaeus Pompey reaffirmed their political alliance, the First Triumvirate.

In 400 AD, before the last emperor fell, Lucca was occupied by the Ostrogoths, then falling under Byzantine and Lombardi control. The Holy Face relic a venerated wooden corpus instrumental in the burial of Christ, so legend had it— had been

171

brought here in 742 AD, bringing pilgrims on their way to Rome through Lucca. The ‘Via Francigena’ road connected Canterbury in England, across the Channel, through France, and Lucca, to Rome.

Bohemia, also known as Wenceslaus, King of Italy and Holy Roman Emperor, the city was released from Pisa’s grip and became an independent republic.

By the second half of the 15th century, Lucca had By this time, Luccan taken on new importance residents had turned their throughout Europe, havhands to the production ing developed into a tradof silk, which saw it retain ing and banking centre. its stature as it fell part of It used its good fortunes the Carolingian Empire. to fortify itself further, As regional warring states by building new defences fought each other for con- between 1650 and 1800, trol during the ensuing which endure today. centuries, Lucca grew to rival Florence, though by Inevitably, Napoleon’s 1343 the Pisans won out. troops eventually rolled in, in 1799. The Corsican In 1372, with the help of saw little wrong with the Emperor Charles IV of Lucca and left it to its

own devices, but only until 1805, when it became a constitutional principality, ruled by the Emperor’s sister, Elisa Baciocchi and her husband.

In the year 1815, after the Congress of Vienna, Lucca came under the control of Maria Luisa of Bourbon, whose son, Charles Bourbon, finally signed it over to the Duchy of Tuscany.

Through all the turmoil and changes in jurisdiction, Lucca never lost its trading prowess and had in the meantime developed thriving textile and paper industries.

172

italy

It continued to prosper through the 20th century, was spared from bombings during WWII, and in addition to established industries, began to benefit from tourism, largely thanks to that ‘road that comes from France’.

Lucca today The reason for the history lesson is that it is Lucca’s resilience and fortitude over the centuries that make it what it is today.

Unable to sprawl beyond its walls, its prosperity has been contained and has strengthened it.

tuscany

lucca

Unchanged structurally for centuries, Lucca is a charming warren of lanes and avenues. It is affluent and well-maintained.

The city does indeed have as many as a hundred churches, which possibly is overkill for its 90,000 inhabitants today. If you intend to visit any, do include Chiesa di San Michele in Foro, rebuilt in Piazza San Michele in 1070 on the orders of Pope Alexander II, and the 6th century Basilica of San Frediano, founded by the Bishop of Lucca himself, with some unusual mosaics and beautiful

frescoes. For high views of the surrounding city, the Apuan Alps valley and beyond, the Torre delle Ore clock tower and Guinigi Tower are worth a climb.

The city’s walls are now a fabulous way to view Lucca from its perimeter, almost as if they were purpose built.

A 4km walking, running, cycling track provide a perspective that is difficult to gain from street level.

Being flat, Lucca is also perfectly accessible, even in the 21st century.

173

To enjoy Lucca, stroll around, enjoy the atmosphere, see some lovely architecture, browse its countless tiny food shops. Do some boutiquey shopping in the narrow, but fabulous, Via Fillungo. Take a terrace, order some Luccan food, have a glass of local vino and figure out what exactly is so adorable about Lucca.

Who knows, with all those houses of worship,

perhaps the gods really are smiling on Lucca.

Dining Lucca is spoilt for choice with many good eateries and cafés, but its one Michelin-starred restaurant is GIGLIO* (+39 0583 49 40 58, Piazza del Giglio 2), situated in an 18th century palazzo and led by three young chefs with a modern take on regional cuisine.

The Art of Superyachting Whether you wish to buy, build, sell or charter a large yacht, speak to Burgess – the world’s leading superyacht specialists.

THE SUPERYACHT SPECIALISTS SALE & PURCHASE | CHARTER | NEW CONSTRUCTION | MANAGEMENT

PALMA +34 971 495 413 LONDON +44 20 7766 4300 MONACO +377 97 97 81 21 NEW YORK +1 212 223 0410 MIAMI | HONG KONG | MOSCOW | ATHENS | BEVERLY HILLS | SINGAPORE | TOKYO | DUBAI | SHANGHAI

ENQUIRIES@BURGESSYACHTS.COM

WWW.BURGESSYACHTS.COM

180

mallorca

I

biza continues to draw the majority of Balearic superyacht traffic during the Mediterranean season, though increasingly owners and guests are choosing to spend longer around Mallorca.

Palma’s expanded world class refit facilities have been fully booked all winter, leading more owners and captains to discover that Mallorca, as a destination too, is on the up.

A combination of stricter tourism planning and regulation means that Mallorca now appeals to more elite visitors. Gastronomy and agritourism are on the rise, complementing our stunning landscapes and coastlines, while the island offers many activities for groups, couples and families.

For culture and nature, we think Mallorca is among the very best of Mediterranean yachting destinations. But we would say that, wouldn’t we?

balearics

P

introduction

MALLORCA

alma de Mallorca’s international airport (PMI) and its private (TAG) terminal make this a convenient embarkation point for guests and crew alike. Palma is the western Mediterranean’s busiest airport and, being at the heart of the European yachting scene, is well-placed to provide whatever services captains and guests require for a successful cruise.

By far the largest of the Balearic Islands, Mallorca enjoys a wide variety of beaches and coves, coupled with mountainous landscapes. Of the 46 ‘Blue Flags’ awarded to the Balearics’ beaches, Mallorca has 31, as well as 14 Blue Flag marinas, while its 90km-long mountain range, Serra de Tramontana, is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. On average, the island enjoys 300 days of sunshine per year.

MARINAS

MARINAS

181

A

major hub for the Mediterranean yachting scene, Palma has an enormous harbour containing no less than six marinas. At the western end, a busy commercial port with ferry and cruise terminals mark the edge of town, while towards the east stretch the urban sandy beaches of Portitxol and El Molinar. A cyclist and pedestrian-friendly promenade skirts the coast all the way to the resort of El Arenal, making it a magnet all year round for joggers, riders, skaters and commuters.

182

mallorca

balearics

fuelling

For fuel in Mallorca, Estela Shipping can offer clients preferential rates in Palma’s STP, Port Adriano and Port de Soller. Fuelling in Port Adriano obviates the need for pilots, making it convenient and more costeffective.

PUERTO PORTALS Puerto Portals is in the heart of Palma Bay and only 16km from the airport. From here, Palma’s centre and beaches are only a taxihop, bike ride, or even a run away, while Portals’ own restaurants, cafes and boutiques are a great spot to linger, peoplewatch and soak up the glitzy atmosphere.

There are plenty of good eateries in Portals itself, while on ‘Roxy Beach’, just past the boat yard, there is a pleasant beach bar perched at the end, where tenders can moor up alongside.

For dinner, consider Cap Rocat with its informal waterside Sea Club or more formal La Fortaleza restaurant, a trip across the bay to Cala Blava. This former military fortress is perched on the rocks, in a stunning location where guests can arrive by tender (+34 971 74 78 78, info@caprocat.com, www.caprocat.com).

PORT ADRIANO This exclusive marina, designed by Philippe Starck, is one of the most modern ports in the Mediterranean, and is an exceptional base for even the largest yachts.

Among the number of

183

restaurants and bars quayside is the upstairs Crew Bar, the venue for Estela Shipping’s annual End of Season Party in early October. There are also a number of design, nautical services and fashion shops, as well as our friends at Burgess Yachts.

PORT D’ANDRATX Is a bustling harbour town, with plenty of port-side places to eat and drink and while away the hours. Nearby is the picturesque fishing village of Sant Elm, a popular spot for hikers to walk up to ‘Sa Trapa’, a ruined Trappist monastery with

stunning views of the coastline and surrounding areas, overlooking Sa Dragonera.

PORT DE SÓLLER Continuing up along Mallorca’s west coast, we head for Port de Sóller, mooring at Marina Tramontana.

184

mallorca

Port de Sóller is a stunning natural bowl and is therefore a tourism hotspot during the high season. A pretty fishing village with a stretch of sandy beach, many seafront shops, bars and restaurants make for a lovely spot to relax.

The coastal town is also a great place from which to explore some of Mallorca’s most picturesque villages, with an old wooden train trundling up to the hilltop town of nearby Sóller at regular intervals. The town is famous for its olives and citrus orchards.

On a hot day, a locallymade lemon or orange sorbet is a refreshing must.

balearics

fuelling

185

PORT DE POLLENÇA While there is no superyacht marina at Port de Pollença, many yachts stay at anchor off this most beautiful piece of coastline, though it is possible to arrange mooring in nearby Port d’Alcudia’s commercial port by arrangement.

Please contact us to book a berth here.

PORT CALANOVA Under new ownership is Port Calanova, a modest marina on the western side of Palma Bay, in striking distance of the city. Following extensive refurbishment, Calanova has this year reopened with a new hotel, gourmet restaurant and quayside bar. With only a single berth of up to 45m, the marina is mostly suitable for smaller to medium sized yachts.

ONE COMPANY ONE COMPLETE the bespoke yachting company in the heart of palma.

providing crew training, crew placement, brokerage and charter.

CREW

TRAINING

CHARTER

BROKERAGE

A n t i b es i F O Rt LAU D eRDA Le i H O n G KOn G i MO n ACO i

MANAGEMENT M O s C O W i PA L M A

t:+34 971 677 154 training & crew

palma@bluewateryachting.com crewpalma@bluewateryachting.com

brokerage & charter cissi@bluewateryachting.com

www.bluewateryachting.com

bluewater ANTIBES I FORT LAUDERDALE I HONG KONG I MONACO I MOSCOW I PALMA

188

mallorca

M

balearics

exploring·MALLORCA

allorca’s visitors are mostly sun-seekers, though increasingly they are hikers, climbers and cyclists in search of challenging ascents out of season. Most of Europe’s professional cycling teams train here in the spring, while some 240,000 keen amateurs were expected in 2019.

Spending only a few days cruising Mallorca’s coastline means picking where to drop anchor for the day, with many attractive spots to choose from.

But, remember, regardless of where you choose to come ashore, any part of the island is less than an hour away by car.

Aside from water sports, fishing, hiking or scuba diving, guests might choose to go shopping in Palma, sightseeing in Soller and Valldemossa, or playing golf at Alcanada. The world is your oyster in Mallorca.

exploring·mallorca

Tip: Contact us to book your buoy here in advance, as places are limited. The best times of year to visit Dragonera are spring and summer, though for bird-watching come during autumn

Dragonera (South West) Dragonera island is a protected nature reserve of cliffs, coves and caves, separated from the mainland by the 800-metre wide Freu Channel. The sixkilometre long rock gets its name from its dragonlike shape and is home to over 350 different plant species.

The islet is a strategic point during bird migration and many colonies of sea birds and

189

birds of prey can be found here. Gulls, shearwaters and osprey are among the species frequently found patrolling its shores.

Deià, Sa Calobra, Fornalutx, Valldemossa, Sa Foradada (West) A stone’s throw from Port de Sóller lies Fornalutx, regarded as one of the prettiest villages in the whole of Spain. It’s a small, photogenic village whose attraction is its

190

mallorca

narrow cobbled streets, pretty houses with red roofs, with flower pots abound and beautiful mountain views.

By car, a drive from Sóller to Deià and on to Valldemossa provides views of the most stunning bit of coastline anywhere, while a stop in each town is worthwhile.

balearics

Deià is known for its literary and musical connections, with many writers and artists drawn here since early in the 20th century.

Another achingly beautiful village in the Tramuntana mountains is Valldemossa. This quiet and picturesque town has its share of small shops,

eateries and art galleries, so is a pleasant spot to while away an hour or two. Hikers can choose from a number of trails that start here.

Tip: Valldemossa’s cobbled streets are notoriously slippery, so leave the stilettos and leather-soled shoes on board for this outing.

exploring·mallorca

A drive from Sóller in the other direction, north towards Sa Calobra, is 38 kilometres of motoring or cycling nirvana. This famous stretch of hairpinned tarmac has featured in

many a motoring TV show and photoshoot.

Arriving at the bottom of the serpentined road lies the beach of Sa Calobra, tucked between two rocky cliffs, divided by the Torrent de Pareis.

Tip: It’s worth hiring a sports car just for this drive. Or if you’re a motorcycle rider, there is a wide range of bikes available for hire, while we can arrange guided rides.

191

South of Port de Sóller lies Sa Foradada, a distinctive punctured rock formation jutting out to sea, creating a lovely sheltered cove for lunch and a swim. It is accessible on foot from Son Marroig at the top of the cliff —one of the finest places from which to view the sunset in Mallorca— but requires a hike that not many swimmers make, keeping this spot fairly quiet.

192

mallorca

Restaurant Foradada is at the bottom, accessible by tender, and offers great rustic cuisine overlooking the clear waters. It is also a superb bird-watching location.

Cap Formentor (North) Moving further north, we reach arguably the most beautiful piece of coastline Mallorca has to offer.

Larger yachts frequently anchor off-shore (gratis, remarkably), though mooring in nearby Port d’Alcudia’s commercial port can be arranged.

Passing Cala San Vincente, a charming small resort featuring three beaches and a great spot for cliff diving, we head for the unspoilt cove of Cala Bóquer.

Accessible only by boat or on foot (it’s a beautiful 4km walk from Port de Pollença), this creek is some 300 meters inland with a pebbly beach, popular with snorkelers and divers. Overhead,

balearics

keen twitchers might spot vultures and falcons rarely seen in Europe.

From Cala Bóquer we progress towards Cap Formentor, a peninsula jutting out from the north-eastern corner of Mallorca, featuring 400-metre high cliffs densely covered in pine trees. At the very tip is the lighthouse, ‘Faro Formentor’, one of the island’s most famous landmarks, while its most inaccessible sandy (public) beach lies in front of Hotel Formentor. Some of Spain’s most expensive homes can be found here, with jaw-dropping views and in perfect seclusion.

Port de Pollença (North East) Port de Pollença is a well-established lowrise resort with sandy beaches wrapped around a horseshoe bay and a seafront largely unchanged in decades.

It is one of Mallorca’s quieter resorts, popular

exploring·mallorca

with families and travellers whose idea of evening entertainment is a stroll along the picturesque Pine Walk, a 3-kilometre cobbled promenade stretching along half of the bay. The seafront offers an array of dining and drinking options, as well as many shops and boutiques to browse.

193

might choose to drop anchor. Heading for Porto Cristo for our next overnight stay, guests may enjoy a beach day at Muro Beach, a long stretch of white sand with a number of popular restaurants and bars, though Muro can get busy during the high season.

Alternatively, calas particularly great for a swim Setting off down Mallorca’s are Es Caló, or the sandy eastern coast, there coves at Coll Baix, Cala are countless calas and Torta, Cala Mesquida. beaches where visitors The Cala Ratjada light-

194

mallorca

house offers impressive views, with Menorca visible in the distance, while there are mooring options here at the Cala Ratjada Marina.

Inland, Alcúdia’s walled old town is worth a visit, where the old gates still stand and where cobbled narrow streets are home to shops, bars and boutiques, while on Sundays it holds one of the island’s biggest markets. Along with the typical Mediterranean marketwares, there is lots of Mallorca produce on offers, while chatty locals add to the colour.

balearics

On the coast lies Canyamel, from where the Caves of Artà are worth a 45-minute stop.

The most impressive underground complex on the island, these caverns hid some 2,000 Arabs and their cattle during the Christian conquest.

One-hour guided tours end with a ten-minute violin concert, with a Stopping at Porto string ensemble playing Cristo, one of the main from a rowing boat; a attractions are the Cuevas bit touristy, of course, del Drach (Dragon Caves), but a fun experience another impressive nonetheless. limestone cave complex featuring Lake Martel, Setting off towards the one of the world’s largest southern tip of Mallorca, subterranean lakes. this coastline offers more East

exploring·mallorca

beauty spots, with many, many more calas tempting visitors into their crystalline waters. This stretch of coast is also quieter than the resorts north of Porto Cristo, as it is less accessible by car.

First up comes Cala Varques, a 1km beach in a quiet, secluded bay featuring a small cave and swim-through arch.

Popular only with locals prepared to walk 40 minutes, it’s an unspoilt bay.

port, and began life as a fishing village. The town is notorious for its annual ‘Fira Gastronómica d’Es Pop’, a food festival held at the end of June, with some 40 stalls offering delicious squid specialties.

For sandy beach lovers, nearby Cala Marçal is the main daytime attraction.

Further south, there are a series of quieter calas and pebbly or sandy beaches, in an area popular with boat-based scuba divers. Being not Moving along towards easily accessible from Portocolom, we pass Cala inland, they tend to be Murada, a blue-flag beach quieter, as it takes some sheltered between rugged determination to get rocks and a small, family- there. Notable are Cala friendly resort.

Estreta, Cala Mitjana and Cala Ferrera, before we Portocolom is a small reach the more developed resort with a deep natural Cala d’Or.

195

196

mallorca

South East Cala d’Or is an attractive resort comprising a number of lovely coves and beaches, with a lively marina with lots of cafés and restaurants, though it can get overly busy in the high season.

For a quieter stop, consider Porto Petro, another small fishing village that has swelled into small resort set around a large natural harbour and marina.

balearics

Next up is the mustsee Parc Natural de Mondrago, one of our very favourite parts of Mallorca. Backed by a large natural park of thick pine forests are three white sandy beaches, connected by a wieldy footpath, offset against beautiful turquoise waters.

Further along is the pretty inlet and natural harbour of Cala Figuera and a perfect spot for lunch, with a number of

good restaurants directly overlooking the creek below. Still very much a fishing village without many hotels, Figuera is about atmosphere over sun-seeking.

exploring·mallorca

197

Cala Llombards is the next possible stop, with a sandy beach featuring a small beach café and clear waters to wade into.

Cap des Moró is the next cove to tempt you. Like the other calas in this region, they are a trek for land-based visitors to get to, but their outstanding beauty makes it worth it, so they can get busy, particularly at weekends.

The advantage for yachtdwellers is that they can simply skip to the next bay…

Next up is Cala s’Almunia, which resembles a swimming pool tucked behind a cliff.

There are more, but the final recommendation for outstanding, secluded beauty is Cala Màrmols (‘Marble Cove’).

Its beach is only 40 meters wide, but a 5.5km walk from the nearest car parking ensures that this small haven is mostly shared with other boatbased visitors.

198

mallorca

balearics

Cabrera, Es Trenc (South) Moving around Mallorca’s southern tip at Cap de Ses Salines, Cabrera National Park comes into view, a cluster of nineteen islands. A former prison camp during the Napoleonic Wars and a military base in 1916, it is now a protected national park. Cabrera is a haven for plant- and wildlife, including turtles and whales and two hundred species of fish, as well as bird colonies. With underwater caves and coral and crystal clear waters, Cabrera is very popular with scuba divers.

The nearest on-shore resort to Cabrera is Colonia de Sant Jordi, a working fishing port and small marina, with a number of fine, sandy beaches. It is a popular resort for water sports, with low-rise hotels and some good restaurants.

Just to the south of town lies what is widely regarded as Mallorca’s finest beach, Platja Es Carbó, which comes with royal approval, as a spot favoured by the holidaying Spanish royal family. A close second must be the neighbouring

Tip: Private yachts require permission to anchor off Cabrera and must ensure not to touch in any way the protected posidonia seagrass. Contact us to arrange your visit.

‘Es Trenc’, which at 3km long is the island’s longest and widest sandy beach, stretching north all the way to Sa Rapita. The dunes of the national park directly behind the seafront provide shelter from any wind, making it popular for all-day beach dwellers, including a large nudist area.

THE BEST MOORING, PRICE AND SERVICE IN THE CENTRE OF PALMA

Client-friendly marina & total privacy

In the heart of Palma

Professional team

Personalized Concierge Service

Contact us! t. + 34 664 002 269 comercial@group-ipm.com

portdemallorca.com

BE ONE OF US!

marinapalma.com

200

mallorca

balearics

a·day·in·palma

Map data ©2019 Google, Inst. Geogr. Nacional

I

a·day·in·palma

f you are spending just one day in Palma, a great way to explore the city is to stroll around the old town, as the entire centre is easily covered on foot.

Opposite STP, walk up one of Palma’s main boulevards, with the cathedral to your right, bringing you to the heart of the city, along Passeig del Born. Shops, cafés, galleries and ateliers are dotted all along the narrow, winding, cobbled lanes that come off either side.

A traditional way to start is to take breakfast at the original C’an Joan de S’Aigua in Calle Sans.

Founded in 1700, it is one of the city’s classic bakeries and coffee houses, famous locally for its ensaimadas and cuartos.

If stopping by later in the day, this characterful establishment also makes its own artisanal ice cream.

Watch our virtual itinerary online here

201

Palma Cathedral, or ‘La Seu’, as she is referred to locally, is an imposing architectural feature of the City and is the secondlargest Gothic cathedral in Spain (after Seville).

Construction began in the 13th century, taking 400 years to complete, and it features ‘The Gothic Eye’, one of the world’s largest

rose windows with 1,236 pieces of stained glass. Its columns are ringed with wrought-iron candelabra designed by Gaudi. Be sure to walk around to the southern end, facing the sea, to admire the Portal del Mirador, a 15thcentury door by Guillem Sagrera featuring scenes from the Last Supper.

For church lovers, Palma has many beautiful examples to enjoy, but like much of southern Spain, having a history littered with Moorish occupation and a large Jewish contingent, these different cultures all put their stamp on the city. Today, the official language of the Balearics

202

mallorca

is Catalan, while older locals and villagers speak their own dialect, Mallorquin.

Other highlights around the city are Plaza Cort, featuring the mostphotographed of all of Mallorca’s millions of olive trees, the ancient baths in the Arab quarter, the Jewish quarter, and many classic Mallorcan patios, tucked away in the backstreets. A major part of any Palma itinerary involves wandering about on foot and getting lost, just a little.

balearics

Close to the cathedral, visit the ‘Palau March’ Museum (10:00-17:00h weekdays, 10:00-14:00h Saturdays), the opulent former home of Juan March Ordinas, an entrepreneur and financier once reputed to be the world’s richest man.

Lovers of modern art should head to Es Baluard museum of modern and contemporary art (10:00h-20:00h) housed in a former military fortress. Its permanent collection includes works

by Cézanne, Gauguin,

a·day·in·palma

203

Picasso, Miro, Picabia, Magritte, Giacometti, Motherwell, Tàpies, as well as more recent artists such as Horn, Plessi, Polke, Kiefer, Schnabel, Barceló, and Scully.

The museum also has an active programme of shows, exhibitions and film, catering for a wide audience.

Palma has many art galleries and studios large and small, with a vibrant contemporary arts scene,

ranging from German modern at Galeria K (C/ Can Veri 10) to the Balearics-centric Gabriel Vanrell (C/ Tous 1).

Pearls may be an appropriate gift to buy for friends or family back home, as Mallorca is famous for its pearl industry. Visitors to Perl Art (Carrer del Palau Reial 2) can discover all about local natural pearl cultivation, as well as the opaline pearl creation process.

204

mallorca

balearics

a·day·in·palma

Away from the centre…

For visitors unfamiliar with all that Spanish architecture has to offer, a long walk (30 minutes) or taxi (10 mins) to Pueblo Español on the outskirts of central Palma is worth it. Designed as a showcase project, this small ‘village’ features reproductions of famous buildings from Cordoba, Toledo and Madrid, along with houses typical of Spain’s diverse regions. Particularly worthwhile is its reproduction salon, baths and patio from the Alhambra Palace, for those who haven’t visited the real thing in Granada (see p. 88 of Estela’s ‘The Y’ 2018).

A 15-minute drive from the centre is Bellver Castle, visible on the hill to the west of Palma. Bellver (‘lovely view’ in Catalan) is a 14th-century Gothic style circular castle with a unique round tower. Aside from the castle itself, one of the best reasons to visit is the spectacular views over the woods to Palma and the entire bay area.

206

mallorca

balearics

Shopping The best shopping in Palma is around Avenue de Jaume III, leading to Plaza de Juan Carlos I, at the top of the picturesque promenade of Paseo del Borne, one of the most popular city centre spaces in town.

The boulevard was designed in the 19th century by Madrid architect Isidro González Velázquez, sharing certain characteristics with Paseo del Prado in the mainland capital. Here you will find names including Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Carolina Herrera, Boss, Cartier, Loewe, Escada, Watches of Switzerland, and Rialto Living, while the nearby department store, El Corte Ingles, is the smaller one of two branches in Palma.

Less predictable are the old town’s narrow, cobbled side streets, where you will stumble across one-off boutiques and independent stores.

Tip: If you are looking for something specific, just ask us, of course. And for your online orders, you can have deliveries (marked with the boat’s name) made to our offices.

a·day·in·palma

shopping / dining·out

207

Dining out Adrián Quetglas, Michelin 1* Paseo Mallorca 20, Palma +34 971 78 11 19 A visit to this bistro will reward your palate many times over. Here, the talented owner-chef, after whom it is named, conjures up contemporary cuisine that will delight guests through its combination of flavours and the unusual Russian and Mediterranean influences in evidence here. In addition, the whole team will make you feel very much at home!

Marc Fosh, Michelin 1* Missió 7-A, Palma +34 971 72 01 14 Occupies a 17th century convent now revamped in an avant-garde style with open spaces, designer details and minimalist décor.

Fera Restaurant & Bar Carrer de la Concepció 4, Palma +34 971 59 53 01 Fine dining with a variety of tasting menus, including a vegetarian tasting menu, or à la carte.

208

mallorca

MyMuyBueno Carrer Tous i Maroto 5B (1st floor), Palma An informal eat-in or takeaway deli, MyMuyBueno is fully vegan and highly recommended by Estela Shipping staff and clients alike.

Bon Lloc Carrer de Sant Feliu 7, Palma +34 971 71 86 17 Mallorca’s first fully vegetarian/vegan restaurant. Informal dining, but food is from the top drawer.

Forn de Sant Joan C/ de Sant Joan 4, Palma +34 971 728 422 Located in a former 19th century bakery, this family-run restaurant

balearics

has been serving creative Mediterranean cuisine for 15 years, complemented with an excellent local wine list.

Casual For al fresco dining, Palma has a number of food courts where you can try a whole variety of delicacies from different vendors. Mercat 1930 (Avinguda de Gabriel Roca 33), opposite Marina Port de Mallorca, and San Juan Gastronomic Market (Carrer de l’Emperadriu Eugènia 6) are smart spaces created especially for tapas dining, with a wide range of local specialities.

a·day·in·palma

dining·out / nightlife

For a more rustic, authentic market, where eating and drinking on-site are incidental, head for Mercat de Santa Catalina (Plaça de la Navegació) or Mercat de l’Olivar (Plaça de l’Olivar), which are a hive of commercial activity, serving until lunchtime only.

Nightlife Compared to Ibiza, Palma’s nightlife is much more low-key. Along Paseo Maritimo, the road that skirts along the harbour, there are a number of nightclubs and shisha lounges that draw a younger crowd.

There is plenty of music and late night revelry to be found between the old town area of La Lonja and trendy bohemian Santa Catalina, where the yachting world tends to kick back and relax.

209

210

mallorca

balearics

family·activities

family·activities

W

e are often asked about things to do in Mallorca for younger children and family groups, so here are just some ideas. To arrange special events, private sessions, or birthday celebrations, contact us at ESTELA SUPERYACHT AGENCY and we can create your day to remember!

PAINTBALL

PALMA AQUARIUM

Mallorca has a number of paintball courses, but the best is Paintball Fantasy in the northern part of the island. Suitable for all ages, they have a number of battlegrounds, where you can play against others or as a private group.

Palma Aquarium is an above-average attraction of this kind, offering not just tanks with viewing areas, but also interactive activities. The big draw is the main tank with its 11 sharks, with a glassbottomed boat to view these creatures and their fellow inhabitants from above.

Sa Pobla (45 min drive)

We can even arrange for a ‘dronographer’ to film your event from the air, enabling you watch back the action and re-live the day.

Playa de Palma (15 min drive)

The park has a splash area, but if children want to get closer to the action,

there is snorkelling with rays from age 3+, diving with rays from 8+, and diving with sharks from 10+, for an unforgettable experience. For those who can’t tear themselves away, it is also possible for youngsters to ‘sleep with the sharks’ overnight, next to the large windows inside the viewing lounge.

PALMA JUMP

Palma outskirts (10 min drive)

If your youngsters need to blow off some steam,

211

Palma Jump is an indoor trampoline park with 57 trampolines and a ‘Ninja Warrior’ assault course. Parents can join in (optional, of course!), while the centre also offers adult jump fitness sessions.

KARTING There are numerous indoor and outdoor karting circuits in Mallorca, most of which will permit racing only in age-appropriate groups.

If your party includes adults and children who wish to drive together, let us arrange your mixed session at Circuit Mallorca, in Llucmajor (20 min from Palma).

Mixed groups can drive

in private sessions, on a purpose-built outdoor 1.2 km circuit. The complex also has a 3.2 km FIAgrade circuit, suitable for single-seaters, saloon cars and motorcycles, with professional instructors on hand. Also available are taxi rides, enabling guests to be a passenger

at full speed, driven by a pro racing driver.

KATMANDU

Magalluf (15 min drive)

Katmandu is a mini theme-park for younger children, including activities such as mini golf, soft play and splash park.

Temporada d’Òpera i Dansa

MARÇ Dimecres 6, 20h Divendres 8, 20h Diumenge 10, 18h

M A R Ç/A B R I L Diumenge 31, 18h Dimecres 3, 20h Divendres 5, 20h Diumenge 7, 18h

ABRIL/MAIG Diumenge 28, 18h Dimecres 1, 20h Divendres 3, 20h Diumenge 5, 18h

MAIG Divendres 17, 20h Dissabte 18, 20h

JUNY Divendres 7, 20h

Don Giovanni Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

Madama Butterfly Giacomo Puccini

L’elisir d’amore Gaetano Donizetti

Los Elementos Antoni Literes

Gregory Kunde Recital sinfónico

JUNY Dissabte 15, 20h Diumenge 16, 19h

Don Quijote Compañía Nacional de Danza

33 Temporada d'Òpera i Dansa amb el suport de:

Col·labora:

Located in the Serra de Tramuntana, declared a world heritage by UNESCO in the natural landscape category.

It offers different alternative activities from the sea and mountain.

From the Port of Soller you have access to the reservoirs of Gorg Blau and Cubert and the highest point of the Puig Major island. The winding roads give access to different landscapes and viewpoints from which you can enjoy wonderful sunsets. The Port of Soller retains a tram that connects directly with the town of Soller and this at the same time with the famous Train of Soller.Two of the biggest attractions in the north that can be accessed from the sea are Sa Foradada and Sa Calobra, as well as Sa Costera, Cala Tuent among many others.

The Marina has a Sailor on call 24 hours a day so that our client feels supported at all times,if they were in need of help. We are known for our kindness and make our customers feel like family.

Every Thursday and Friday we organize food trucks with live music and on Saturdays we invite all our clients to Paella and to join us and enjoy the stories and personal experiences of the sea world. The Marina has a Bar called La Base in which we invite all our customers for a welcome drink upon arrival in port. We have the Soller Divers diving center where you can enjoy the diving of the Tramuntana mountain range.

Without a doubt Marina Tramontana is a mandatory stop if you decide to visit the island of Mallorca and even if you want to cross to the peninsula or to France.

216

mallorca

balearics

sports/activities

sports·and·activities HUNTING

I

ntroduced to Mallorca around 2000 BC by the Phoenicians, as a source of food, the Balearic Boc roams in the northern and western parts of the Tramuntana mountains. A sub-species of wild goat, males weigh up to 60 kg at a shoulderheight of 70 cm. Hunting is open all year round, making for an excellent day in unique scenery on a physically challenging stalk, returning with

highly sought-after trophy.

From September onwards is the partridge and duck shooting season, with terrain, climate and vegetation making it an ideal location for driven and walked-up shooting.

Shoots of up to ten guns average bags of 500

partridges per day, over 5 drives. Duck shooting on estate ponds offers some very nice shoots at fast and high birds.

TENNIS Mallorca’s most famous son today is Rafael Nadal, the world’s former

217

Number One tennis champion and keen poker player, who hails from Manacor, where his eponymous tennis academy is located.

Nadal still calls Manacor ‘home’ and founded the first Rafa Nadal Academy here, primarily aimed at coaching talented youngsters, but also offers tennis sessions for adults, should you be looking to sharpen up your game (rafanadalacademy.com).

The centre has world class tennis and fitness facilities, running a wide range of coaching programmes and summer camps.

GOLF Mallorca has numerous award-winning gold courses, designed by the world’s best. Among the finest is Alcanada Golf Club, in the north of the island near Alcúdia.

A challenging course designed by Robert Trent James Jr, Alcanada enjoys stunning views and provides a challenge at each hole.

Son Vida, just 15 minutes from Palma has a number of top class courses, including Arabella Golf’s three championship courses.

218

mallorca

balearics

sports/activities

CYCLING Excellent roads, respectful drivers and a combination of alpine and flat terrain make Mallorca a Mecca for road cyclists. Most of Europe’s professional cycling teams train here in the spring, while some 240,000 keen amateurs were expected to visit in 2019. For competitive types, there are a number of annual amateur races, while there are cycling centres around the island stock the last composite bikes for hire.

HIKING Mallorca is a paradise for walkers of all abilities and fitness levels, with many signposted routes offering trails from picturesque bridle paths to more challenging terrain. In the Tramuntana, the area

219 Tip: If diving independently, contact us to arrange the required permits in regulated dive zones in the Balearics.

around Sóller is popular for hiking, with a number of circular routes that take in villages such as Fornalutx and Biniaraix.

Others lead down to the coast, where you can reward your efforts with a refreshing swim and, should you not fancy the climb back up, you can of course arrange for the tender to collect you!

Even in high season, you will find plenty of places of peaceful solitude, disturbed only by the occasional goat, donkey or mountain biker.

CLIFF JUMPING (Guided) Suitable for first-timers and seasoned adrenaline junkies, guides will take

you to rugged cliffs, where you change into wetsuits and learn jumping technique starting from 3 metres, working up to greater heights as confidence grows.

SCUBA DIVING Mallorca’s coastline offers a great variety of scuba diving, from easy shore dives open to all ages and experience to technical dives for advanced or expert divers, to depths of up to 70 metres. In addition to interesting caves and swim-throughs, sea-life varieties typically found at sites around the island include nudibranch,

moray, barracuda, wrasse, scorpionfish, rabbitfish, bream, damselfish, lobster, grouper, conger, coral, tuna, meagre, scorpionfish, cuttlefish, octopus, gurnard, squid, triggerfish, sea slugs, urchins, starfish, anemones, tompot, blennie, flatfish, mullet, scissortail and sepia.

HOT AIR BALLOON TRIPS For a more leisurely way to explore the Mallorcan countryside, consider a hot air balloon glide across the northeastern side of the island, taking off from Cala Millor, an hour’s drive from Palma.

Suitable for groups of up to eight people.

El puerto más vivo del Mediterráneo The most lively port in the Mediterranean

Calendario de eventos 2019 Events Calendar

JUN

17-23

Open WTA SEPT

18-22 Mallorca Classic Week

19

JUL

27

Maceo Parker OCT

5

Doggie Race

AUG

1

Dios salve a(Queen) la Reina OCT

11-13

XIII Street Food Festival

APR

7

Isla Race JUN

8

IV Trial Indoor

Port Adriano AUG

APR

20

SUP Race JUN

8

Marina Day AUG

12-25

Aftersun Market OCT

APR/MAY

27-1

Palma Boat Show JUN

15

Sunset Yoga AUG/SEPT

30-1 Uppereast Club Concerts NOV

Multihull Cup DEC

25-26

Cinema Car

Food Passion

Christmas Event

HEART IBIZA, already known as “the place” located in the golden mile, created on 2015 by Cirque du Soleil and Adrià Brothers, returns this season with a new project based on the creative collision between art, food and music, to celebrate in a very special way its 5th birthday.

On this occasion, HEART Ibiza will open its doors starting next Thursday, May the 23rd until Sunday, October the 6th of 2019 with the target #ilusionARTe every night during the season.

gradually discovering our gastro-theatrical experience; a very particular way to celebrate together this 5 years.

As the experiential base, culinary art developed to the slightest detail paired with an Surprise and thrill yourself more interactive and transgressive performance full of surprises and than ever with an exclusive created with a unique purpose: and unique experience, based #ilusionARTe once again. on an spectacular thematic, with a renewed perspective And after midnight, we will and ready for, in an immersive continue celebrating our way, provoke your senses once club nights in the only way more. we know, with our own style, joining friends and relatives, The new developments and to continue living a musical surprises of our concept experience. will be showed as you start

A new evolutive concept, where both the staging and the music will make the audience vibrate with the most exceptional sounds and visuals of the island in a unique ambiance.

Make your reservations now at: reservas@heartibiza.com | +34 971 933 777 Get ready to live a process of an unseen creative/ artistic immersion and stay tuned to know more about our coming surprises.

Buy your Early Bird tickets at: www.heartibiza.com/club-tickets/ and... #followyourheart @HEARTIbizaOfficial @HeartIbizaClub @heartibiza @heartclubibiza @heartibiza www.heartibiza.com We are celebrating Heart Factory every Tuesday, a unique Ibizan experience with DJs and internationally acclaimed bands, La Troya on Wednesday, with Brasilio’s legendary party, and on Sundays we will be hosting Saga with Bedouin, which promises a really special night. Heart Ibiza is where your senses come alive.

Get ready to #ilusionARTe at Heart Ibiza

balearics·ibiza

I

225

ibiza

biza, the island better known for its party scene than its ancient history, continues to be the primary superyacht magnet in the Balearics.

Looking at the coastal assets of The ‘White Island’, and its near neighbour, Formentera, their appeal is obvious.

Map data ©2019 Google, Inst. Geogr. Nacional

While Ibiza has its cultural side, which we explored in the previous edition of ‘The Y’, this year we focus on the coves and beaches that most yachting visitors come for.

We count more than forty locations worthy of consideration, though some are of course more desirable than others. Assuming you seek plenty of space for your towel without rubbing thighs with the hoi polloi, we pick some of the finest, going clockwise around the coast.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Es Cavallet Las Salinas Sa Caleta Cala Jondal Cala d’Hort Cala Carbo beach Cala Vadella Cala Molí Cala Tarida Cala Codolar Cala Conta Cala Bassa Port D’Es Torrent Cala Gracioneta

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Punta Galera Cala Salada Cala Saladeta San Miguel Cala Benirras Cala Xarraca Cala Xuclar Portinatx Cala d’en Serra Cala de St Vicent Aguas Blancas Es Figueral Pou des Lleó Cala Boix

29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42

Cala Mastella Cala Llenya Cala Nova Cala Pada Playa Niu Blau Santa Eulalia Caló de s’Alga Cala Llonga Sol d’en Serra Cala Olivera Platja s’Estanyol Talamanca Figueretes Playa d’en Bossa

Watch our Ibiza Beach Map online here

balearics·ibiza·beaches Tip: Part of the protected National Park, with the posidonia seagrass that gives waters around this part of the island their clarity, captains must take care to keep both anchor and chain off the seagrass, while jet skis are forbidden Es Cavallet, an extensive, picturesque, white sandy beach with protected dunes and salt flats behind, sometimes windy with rolling waves. Part of it is denoted as nudist beach and is there is a lively gay scene at the southern end, with a number of popular restaurants and beach clubs drawing a relaxed crowd.

Bird watchers (of the feathered variety) may spot flamingoes roosting in the shallows behind.

Las Salinas is one of the busier beaches on the island. This extensive white sandy beach is a popular meeting point for locals and famous faces alike, with well-known restaurants like Malibú and Guaraná known to pull in the odd screen or music star. Other notable hotspots are Jockey Club and Sa Trinxa beach clubs.

Sa Caleta beach is collared by distinctive orange cliffs. Part sand, part rock, the site features some Phoenician ruins dating back to 654 BC. The clay, mixed with water, makes for an excellent DIY face mask, if you’ve left the La Mer at home.

Cala Jondal is one of the most popular Ibizan beaches, pebbly at the southern end, with a number of beach clubs drawing affluent sun worshippers.

Some nearby restaurants and bars keep visitors fed, hydrated and entertained.

Es Cavallet 38°50‘21.7“N 1°24‘20.2“E

Las Salinas 38°50‘29.1“N 1°23‘12.5“E

Sa Caleta 38°51‘59.3“N 1°20‘10.6“E

Cala Jondal 38°52‘01.5“N 1°18‘44.5“E

227

228

ibiza

balearics

beaches

Cala d‘Hort 38°53‘23.3“N 1°13‘26.1“E Es Xarcu is especially good for boatbased visitors, as it’s a shingly beach and inland access is along a dirt track, so it tends to keep big crowds away.

The waterside restaurant is a popular spot for lunch with locals in the know.

Cala Carbo 38°53‘45.2“N 1°12‘53.4“E

Cala d’Hort has stunning sunset views over Es Vedra, making this a great port of call towards the end of the day. The beach itself is laid back and popular with families.

Cala Carbo is a small public beach, but is generally eschewed by tourists.

Secluded between cliffs and with pine trees providing shelter, it’s particularly worth coming here on a breezy day.

Cala Vadella 38°54‘53.7“N 1°13‘11.0“E

Cala Tarida 38°56‘25.5“N 1°14‘01.1“E

Cala Vadella is a lovely sandy beach, but can get crowded, so is probably best enjoyed from the water. The southern end of the bay is particularly good for snorkelling. ‘Big Blue Ibiza’ scuba dive centre is located here, as well as a surfing school.

Cala Moli, the pebbles here tend to keep sand-lovers away, so this beautiful spot doesn’t get overcrowded. Declared a ‘natural beach’ means there are no beds/loungers here, though there is a beach club with its own pool, should you prefer to keep off the stones.

Cala Tarida is a 1km long strip of white sand, sheltered by hills. With restaurants, bars and watersports here, it’s one of the most popular beaches in the area, so can get crowded. Orca Sub scuba dive centre is located here.

beaches Cala Conta 38°57‘49.9“N 1°13‘15.8“E Cala Codolar is a small, half sand half pebbles, locals beach, without many facilities to speak of. It’s also under the flightpath, but in high season, this is going to be one of the quieter beaches.

There is a windsurf school here too.

Cala Conta (or Comte, in Catalan) is where you’ll find the classic ‘Ibiza vibe’, with a beach restaurant/bar open until midnight, with resident DJ. White sands, dunes and a wonderful view of the sunset, this is a popular spot for those looking to chill into the evening.

Cala Bassa 38°58‘08.1“N 1°14‘31.4“E

Cala Bassa is one of the busiest beaches in this part of the island. The water here is truly turquoise, there is a buzzing beach club and great rocks for cliff jumping.

Port d’Es Torrent is a calm spot, mostly pebbled and with very limited parking, so mainly frequented by locals and guests staying in nearby hotels.

There are signs by the ‘fun police’ banning ball games and music, so it’s perfect if you like peace and quiet.

Cala Gracio and Cala Gracioneta are nestled side-by-side near San Antoni, but far enough away from town to keep large numbers at bay. Pretty sandy coves and calm waters make this a lovely spot to linger. If Chef has the day off, the chiringuito in Gracioneta will deliver lunch (and cocktails) to your sun lounger.

Cala Gracio 38°59‘32.0“N 1°17‘22.8“E

Cala Gracioneta 38°59‘34.0“N 1°17‘20.0“E

229

230

ibiza

balearics

Punta Galera 39°00‘10.0“N 1°17‘32.0“E

Cala Salada 39°00‘35.9“N 1°17‘46.5“E

San Miguel 39°05‘05.5“N 1°26‘21.1“E

Benirràs 39°05‘22.5“N 1°27‘02.9“E

beaches

Sa Galera or Punta Galera is an old quarry that is now a formation of flat rocks, popular with nudists, artists, hippies and yogi. Not easily accessible from inland, Galera is one of the quieter places for those in the know.

Whether you’re going to practise your Downward Dog or not, bring your mat for comfort. Great for cliff jumping and a stunning sunset view.

Cala Salada is a rustic bit of beach backing onto thick pine trees, mostly frequented by intrepid visitors seeking relative seclusion. Even more determined are those clambering across the rocks to get to the prettier, sandier and even more secluded Cala Saladeta next door. Not a problem for those arriving here by tender, of course.

San Miguel bay itself is lovely, but it’s a fairly developed resort with nearby family hotels and holiday accommodation, so there are probably more suitable options nearby.

Benirràs Beach is in a sheltered bay, with pebbly sand and clear waters.

There are a couple of bars on the beach, looking out over Cap Bernat, a rock formation jutting out of the water outside the bay, also known as ‘the finger of God’. Those unfortunate enough not to be aboard a boat need to jostle for position on the beach for Benirràs’ famous Sunday ritual, when hippy bongo drummers congregate at sunset. Yacht dwellers can hear the rhythmic beats from the distance, to the smell of incense.

beaches

Cala Xarraca is a great spot for a swim and a snorkel. An abundance of posidonia seagrass provides crystal clear water and draws plenty of fish.

Limited car parking keeps the number of land-dwellers down, making this a perfect stop for those afloat.

Cala Xuclar is a pebbled little cove without much car parking, so rarely gets crowded. The beachfront restaurant here (until 10pm, +34 679 67 05 59, cash only) consistently earns rave reviews, serving some of the finest seafood in Ibiza.

Portinatx is a popular resort with three beautiful beaches (S’Arenal Gros, S’Arenal Petit and Playa Porto) that are particularly popular with snorkelers and divers. Worth a visit, but prone to crowding.

Cala d’en Serra is a small sandy cove with clear waters and great snorkelling.

Tucked away, it never tends to get too busy. A stunning setting with beautiful views out to sea.

Cala Sant Vicent (also Cala San Vicente, or simply ‘Sa Cala’) is a well-developed resort, with hotels and restaurants catering for tourists. The beach itself is a sandy expanse, though, providing ample room for everyone. Apart from a variety of watersports offered here, in nearby San Juan, it is possible arrange horse riding tours (age 12+) that take in the local countryside, coastline and beaches.

Cala Xarraca 39°06‘04.3“N 1°29‘54.3“E

Portinatx 39.113734, 1.512476 Cala d‘en Serra 39°06‘26.3“N 1°32‘19.4“E

Cala Sant Vicent 39°04‘31.2“N 1°35‘38.8“E

231

232

ibiza

balearics

Aguas Blancas 39°03‘37.9“N 1°35‘32.7“E

Figueral 39°03‘13.3“N 1°35‘52.5“E Pou des Lleo 39°02‘26.7“N 1°36‘31.9“E

beaches

Sol d’en Serra is a secluded spot, with a shingle beach eschewed by families and those who prefer sand. Clear waters are great for snorkelling and scuba diving, but the main draw here is the beach club, Amante, which offers all the usual luxuries, plus extras such as yoga and an outdoor movie theatre.

Aigües Blanques (also Aguas Blancas) is named after the white-crested waves that tend to roll in. This 300-metre stretch of sand is a popular spot, despite it being prone to easterly winds. While nudism is popular all around Ibiza, this is a designated nudist beach. Cradled by tall cliffs, it’s a popular spot for rock-jumping, as well as surfing. Blancas has great views over the nearby private island of Tagomago (which can be hired www.tagomagoisland.com/).

Es Figueral is remote enough to keep the crowds away, frequented mainly by tourists staying nearby.

Pou des Lleo and the gravelly, rocky cove at Canal d’en Marti is a rustic beauty spot, with rugged red rocks in clear waters, and some rickety boat houses.

Cala Boix 39°01‘35.9“N 1°36‘30.3“E

Cala de Boix’s beach isn’t overly popular for its dark, grainy texture, but makes for a great cove to visit by tender, provided the wind isn’t up.

Tree-lined cliffs surround the 150m long strip, making for a picturesque and quiet place to enjoy without the crowds.

beaches

Cala Mastella is a gorgeous creek with a tiny beach. Not easily accessible by land, the cove is tailor-made for boat-based visitors. The beach-front restaurant ‘El Bigotes’ (+34 650 797 633), named after its former owner’s famous bushy ‘whiskers’ is a very popular, but basic eatery, often booked up months in advance. Even the king of Spain has been turned away here after pitching up without a reservation.

Cala Llenya is one of the most popular beaches in this part of the island, with some 200m of fine sand and shallow waters popular with families. At 60m wide, it’s rarely overcrowded, except perhaps on Saturdays, when the famous nearby ‘Las Dalias’ hippy market is on.

Cala Nova is one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on Ibiza, in an arc 250m long and 30m wide. Shallow for quite some way out, it’s popular with families, though it is prone to strong currents when it gets deeper, so the surf can get up a bit.

Cala Pada is a rocky cove with a sandy beach, framed by thick pine forest. The jetty here makes it a handy place to disembark. It’s a beautiful spot, though its close proximity to a ghastly package tour hotel means you won’t be alone.

Playa Niu Blau is a narrow strip of gravel and sand, collared by pine trees offering plenty of shade if it gets too hot. Not so much an all-day destination beach, Niu Blau rarely tends to get overly busy.

Cala Mastella 39°01‘22.0“N 1°35‘48.3“E

Cala Llenya 39°00‘50.5“N 1°35‘14.6“E Cala Nova 39°00‘29.0“N 1°35‘01.6“E

Cala Longa 38°57‘10.8“N 1°31‘30.7“E

233

234

ibiza

balearics

Cala Llonga at 200m long and up to 100m wide is a popular beach, protected from the elements by high cliffs on either side. While this is a well-established resort, with many hotels, restaurants and amenities, there is plenty of space for it never to feel crowded. The resort is also particularly accessible for wheelchair users.

Calo s’Alga, also Racó de S’alga, is difficult to find from inland, so tends to be quieter than nearby places. The small beach is cordoned off at one end by a breakwater, covered in plant life, so its clear waters are particularly good for snorkelling.

Cala Olivera is a public beach in a small, south-facing cove in an exclusive neighbourhood. So much so, that arriving here by car requires a security check before being allowed down the private access road. No photo was available, but take our word for it that Cala Olivera is worth a visit. Being another popular nudist haunt, you may see more than a just famous face here…

Platja s’Estanyol is another tiny, secluded cove, accessible only by a single access road if coming by car.

It is popular with people looking for a bit of privacy and with clubbers in the morning who have yet to call it a ‘night’. In the afternoon, nearby trees provide some shade, while its shallow pebbled waters tend to be bath-warm.

Snorkellers have reported seeing grouper and even moray eels here.

beaches

Talamanca, at 900m long and 30m wide, is the quietest of Ibiza Town’s three beach areas and is in walking distance of its marinas, or just around Punta Grossa headland if you drive the tender past Marina Botafoch.

Restaurants, shops and cafés are more low-key than Cala Bossa on the other side of town. A long wooden promenade make the beach easily accessible for wheelchair users, while it is only the second beach in Spain to install an ‘audioplaya’ system for the sightimpaired, designed to guide bathers, using beacons and sound bracelets.

Figueretes is made up of three sandy beaches, the nearest to Ibiza Town, where you will find something going on anytime of day or night, given the proximity of hotels, shops and nightlife.

Playa d’en Bossa is Ibiza’s largest beach, at over 2.5km long and up to 50m wide at some points. With hotels located all the way along, as well as bars, restaurants and boutiques, it is the island’s busiest stretch of sand.

Given the close proximity of Ibiza’s famous clubs, the evenings are for chilling to beach-based DJs, the nights for clubbing, the mornings for sleeping it off and the afternoons for sunbathing before doing it all again. D’en Bossa is exposed, so a great spot for windsurfing and other wind-dependent watersports.

MORE THAN A MARINA, IT’S A WAY OF LIFE DISCOVER OUR NEW LUXURY COMMERCIAL AREA

P R I V IL EG ED LO CAT I O N E N JOY IBIZA MOD E RN FACI LI T I E S ME D IT E RR AN E AN L I G HT I N N OVAT I VE MO O R I N G S C O M FO R T F I V E STA R M A R I N E SE RV I CE S E XCLU SIV E SP E CI ALLY EQUI P P E D FO R S UP E R YAC HT S R E L AXE D AT MOS PHER E SH O P P I N G & D I NI NG H OT SP OT M AGIC NIGH T S LI O C LUB CAB AR E T S MI L E S T R AD E Z O N E FAS H I ON DEST I N AT I ON P E R SONAL CARE NICE SUNSE T S SH U T T LE FO R C L I E N T S P R I VACY P R O FE SS I O N AL N AUTICA L S E R V I C E S U N FO R G E T TAB LE M OME NT S FU LL CONCIE RG E S E R VI C E AL L D R E AMS C O ME T R UE

BE ONE OF US!

SETTING SAIL FOR EXCELLENCE

www.marinaibiza.com

L A M E J O R E M P R E S A PA R A EL DEPORTE ACUÁTICO E N E U R O PA

DONDE COMIENZA LA DIVERSIÓN

Y MUCHOS MÁS EN STOCK

P U E R T O P O R TA L S

PORT ADRIANO

S A N TA P O N S A

EUROPES LEADING WAT E R S P O R T S C O M PA N Y

W H E R E T H E F U N S TA R T S

AND MANY MORE IN STOCK

+34 971 677 730

N A U T I P A R T S @ YA H O O . C O M

N A U T I - PA R T S .C O M

238

formentera·and·espalmador balearics

balearics

formentera·and·espalmador

N

o yacht-based visit to Ibiza is complete without hopping across to Formentera, if even just for a day trip. Formentera’s beaches and waters are up there with the world’s finest.

Tip: Contact us to book your buoy or anchorage in good time, as availability is limited. Restaurants too can be booked up long in advance during the high season.

239

Moor up off Ses Illetes, either on a buoy or anchored in sand (with the aid of the anchoring service) and enjoy what is considered to be the nearest thing to paradise in the Balearics.

Ses Illetes Beach 38°45‘38.7“N 1°25‘55.0“E

240

formentera·and·espalmador balearics

balearics

241

Off the northern tip of Formentera lies the uninhabited private island of Espalmador, popular with snorkelers and picnickers. The islet is famous for its sulphurous mud flats and although mud bathing is technically not permitted, this is widely disregarded.

Cala Saona 38°41‘45.7“N 1°23‘14.7“E

Tip: Espalmador is particularly beautiful at sunset, so don’t arrive too late to claim your spot.

There is some nightlife to be found on Formentera near Es Pujols’ bustling seaside promenade, but that isn’t what most visitors come for.

Espalmador 38°46‘43.7“N 1°25‘32.6“E Es Pujols 38°43‘37.8“N 1°27‘40.3“E

EXPERIENCES & ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

244

menorca

N

balearics

beaches

menorca

orth-east of Mallorca lies Menorca, which is sometimes overlooked as a superyacht destination, but has another 200km of beautiful coastline to explore.

This green island not only offers unspoiled coves and beaches in clear waters, but also offers activities for lovers of equestrian sports and country pursuits.

Cala Pregonda is a favourite with snorkellers, with lots of fish to be seen Cala Turqueta is pristine and popular, so perhaps best enjoyed from the water.

This is a great spot for cliff-jumping.

Cala Macarelleta is stunning, though you will need to arrive early to secure a good spot on the small beach.

Cala Mitjana has two coves to choose from. The lack of any nearby facilities may make this a decent bet if looking to avoid the crowds.

Tip: Menorca’s crystalline waters are thanks to the presence of posidonia seagrass, so ask us for local anchoring guidance along the northern and southern coasts.

245

Sa Mesquida 39°54‘52.8“N 4°17‘28.4“E

Cala Turqueta 39°55‘44.4“N 3°54‘55.0“E

Cala Macarella 39°56‘07.5“N 3°56‘17.7“E Cala Pregonda 40°03‘33.8“N 4°02‘48.3“E

246

menorca

Horses

H

aving been invaded many times in its ancient history, Menorquinos have long used horses in their battles to defend their island from unwelcome visitors. Breeding horses for their strength and agility, the ‘Menorquina’ breed shares many characteristics with the North African Arabian Berber, tracing its origins back to the Iberian horse.

Recognised as a distinct breed since the 15th century, purebreds are small and only black in colour.

Menorca remains a horseriding island, with many horse-related fiestas held each year. The biggest of these takes place in the second city, Ciutadella, for two days towards the end of June. Sunday 23rd June is the date for your diary for 2019, if Menorca is in your itinerary. If it isn’t, and you love equestrian events, consider making

balearics

horses

riding

247

a special visit. Consider it the horse equivalent of running with the bulls in Pamplona, but less lethal.

Slightly.

The proceedings on the opening Sunday of this two-day extravaganza start with a man riding a donkey, playing a flute and beating a drum, leading 150 small black stallions through the streets to the city’s main square.

The horses are trained in a specific type of dressage (‘Doma Menorquina’) and are taught to jump up on hind legs, among other disciplines.

While this in itself may be dangerous principally for the riders, the horses perform the ‘bot’ in the midst of a crowd of thousands, to great excitement and celebration.

Riding Menorca has many stables and manèges for riding and learning dressage. A flat landscape means trail riding is easy and suitable for all ages, while there are many routes to choose from. From a morning woodland ride, to a week-long 200km trek along the Camí de Cavalls bridleway that runs along the entire coastline, there are many options.

It’s a great spectacle not to be missed, though best observed from a safe distance. To see how crazy this gets, check out this video (scan or click the QR code)

Specia list in g i g a yach t berthing an d s er v i ces

A yachting destination located in the heart of the Mediterranean designed to offer you a comfortable and pleasant stay all year round.

From Port Tarraco you can set off on a journey of exploration through a vast territory containing cultural sites and experiences, local cuisine, hotels, spas, resorts, shows, world famous sporting events, festivals and local traditions.

T. +34 977 244 173 · info@porttarraco.com · www.porttarraco.com

258

antigua

A

antigua & guadeloupe

antigua

s the ‘sailing capital of the Caribbean’, Antigua is no stranger to most yachting folk.

At Estela Yachting, we are there each winter for the Antigua Charter Yacht Show, which is getting bigger and better with each passing year.

The six-day event —next held December 4th-9th in 2019— has no exhibition stands, with the focus entirely on chartering for the duration of the event, including a final ‘Sail Day’, enabling brokers to experience a ‘microcharter’ around the Caribbean.

Other staples in Antigua’s events calendar are Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta in April, followed directly by Antigua Sailing Week, rounding off the Caribbean season before the Mediterranean season kicks off again. A newer fixture, earlier in the calendar, is the RORC

Caribbean 600 Race in February. In 2019, the 11th edition of this nonstop 600-mile race around eleven Caribbean islands attracted 76 teams from 21 countries.

As testament to the islands’ seafaring heritage, in January of 2019 a team of four Antiguan women successfully completed the 3,000-mile crossing from the Canary Islands to Nelson’s Dockyard in the Talisker Whiskey Atlantic Challenge.

Elvira Bell, Christal Clashing, Samara Emanuel and Captain Kevinia Francis —‘Team Antigua Island Girls’— were the first black women to row across the Atlantic, completing the journey in 50 days.

antigua

Facilities In case you haven’t visited for a while, here is a reminder of what Antigua has to offer.

Well-equipped marine facilities make the island a terrific base from which to explore the wider Caribbean region. As the region’s main port of call when coming into or departing these waters, Antigua’s English-speaking population means easy communication around service and repairs. There are resident engineers, sailmakers and other service providers here, that all work to the highest standard.

Another benefit of Antigua over many of its neighbours is the absence of a lagoon, with Falmouth Harbour Marina and Antigua Yacht Club Marina, both in Falmouth Harbour, accessible at all times to the largest of both sailing and motor yachts.

Meanwhile, the island’s VC Bird Airport is wellconnected to both Europe and North America.

261

agency services, including bunkering, clearing, crewing, berthing or on-shore services are Anchor Concierge and Super Yacht Services on +1 268 734 1865, www.anchorcsys.com Antigua as a destination

While for many owners Antigua is a point of transit, the island itself is an inviting destination. ‘WalaLess easy for captains dli’ or ‘Wadadli’ (sic), as the and yacht managers to local population sometimes navigate in Antigua are its refer to the island, not only Customs and Immigration has its famous 365 beaches, procedures, as the but retains historical country is not part of any monuments and buildings customs union or FTZ. that attest to its naval and Estela’s partner for all colonial past.

262

antigua

Things to do Nelson’s Dockyard National Park has been in continuous operation since 1745. Declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2016, the Georgian marina now houses restaurants, hotels and businesses. From 1784 for three years it was home to (then) Captain Horatio Nelson, who was reluctantly stationed here, referring to it as “an infernal hole” and a “vile spot” where he was besieged by mosquitos.

Another historical naval military point of interest is Shirley Heights, a restored lookout and gun battery, names after St Thomas Shirley, the first Governor of the Leeward Islands. The Blockhouse retains vestiges of officers’ quarters and a powder magazine, while on a clear day Montserrat and Guadalupe are visible from here.

The Victorian Wallings Dam & Reservoir was built around 1900, though

antigua & guadeloupe

the reservoir ran dry during a drought shortly afterwards and was reforested.

Now dense with a large number of tree varieties, the area is fertile ground for birdwatchers, with broad-winged hawks, hen harriers, bananaquits and redstarts often seen here.

Another attraction, particularly during the mating season in Spring, is the Barbuda Bird Sanctuary, with thousands of frigate birds congregating here in the lagoon when they aren’t in the Galapagos.

things·to·do

263

264

antigua

Beaches With 365 beaches to choose from, you won’t have to cruise far to find one to your liking, but here are some of our favourites.

Photo: Shelton Dupreez of Luxury Yacht Films ©

antigua & guadeloupe

Rendezvous Bay, on the south coast west of Falmouth and a 30-minute walk away from the nearest car parking.

Half Moon Bay, on the eastern tip of the island, is protected from open sea by a crested reef and from winds by surrounding woodland. Beyond the reef water can be choppy and is therefore popular with (wind)surfers. It gets busy at weekends, but is worth a visit during quieter times.

beaches

Green Island, as the name would suggest, is a small private island off Antigua’s eastern coast and is only accessible by boat, making it one of the quieter spots. There are a number of sandy beaches to choose from, all offering great snorkelling, soft sand and little else.

fish lovers without taking to a boat, it can get busier than others.

Less secluded is Carlisle Bay, with the upscale Carlisle Bay Hotel nearby.

As it offers the best snorkelling for tropical

Deep Bay boasts a wreck as a point of interest for snorkelers and divers, while turtles are often spotted around here.

Hawksbill Bay, to the west, near the island’s capital, St John, has four beaches to choose from, one of which is the only nudist beach on the island.

265

266

I

guadeloupe

antigua & guadeloupe

guadeloupe

f you are spending time around Antigua, consider dropping 50 nautical miles south to Guadeloupe, for a taste of Les Antilles Françaises.

Guadeloupe’s archipelago contains a dozen islands with a familiar Caribbean topography of white beaches and soaring

mountains, though the cultural flavour here is truly French. ‘Gwada’ as the locals know it, combines rich Créole culture with a ‘joie de vivre’ that is distinct from other parts of the region.

Geographically, Gwada’s mainland resembles a butterfly, with emerald

wings that are conjoined by swampland. Located between Montserrat and Dominica, these large wings and a southern cluster of islets of course have stunning beaches, but also waterfalls and rainforests that are worth exploring. Guadeloupe is particularly well geared up for climbing, hiking, paragliding and all manner of watersports.

267

To the west, Basse-Terre is mountainous and covered with dense tropical vegetation, home to the Guadeloupe National Park, topping out at La Soufrière volcano. To the east lies Grande-Terre, a vast limestone plateau, which draws most of the islands’ tourism, crested with white sandy beaches and hotel resorts.

While tourism has increased in recent years, with more direct flights from the US and UK traffic also up —thanks in part to Gwada being the setting for UK hit television series, ‘Death in Paradise’— there remains plenty of room to keep away from crowds and enjoy some unspoilt nature.

With 70% of its territories classified as a Natural Reserve and listed since 1993 as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the Guadeloupe Islands are well protected from over-development.

South of the mainland lie three smaller islands, La Désirade, Les Saintes and Marie-Galante.

Tip: The west coast has almost no land-based tourism and yacht-based visitors generally have the islands’ best beaches to themselves

268

guadeloupe

La Désirade Of Guadeloupe’s 380,000 population, only 1,700 people live on La Désirade, sharing its 22 km square with thousands of iguanas, including endangered varieties. It is a short hop east from the mainland, has just one road and glorious beaches on the south coast of the island, which are shady and protected by coral reefs.

Les Saintes Les Saintes comprises nine unspoiled tiny islands, only two of which are inhabited. Listed by UNESCO as one of the world’s most beautiful bays, Les Saintes Bay is located on the northwest coast of the easterly island of Terre-de-Haut.

Three forts were built overlooking the bay and the French and English enjoyed many battles here during the 17th and 18th centuries. It was also a spot favoured by pirates.

Our local friends in the know prefer the beach at Le Pain-de-Sucre.

antigua & guadeloupe

269

Marie-Galante Of the islands on the Guadeloupe archipelago, Marie Galante was the first one reached by Christopher Columbus during his second voyage, in 1493. He named the island after his flagship, Maria Galanda, having been formerly known by Carib Indians as ‘Aichi’ and before that by the Arawaks as ‘Touloukaera’.

The third largest island in Guadeloupe is mostly flat and offers more glorious beaches on its west and south coast, making it easy to find a quiet spot to your liking. Our local partner’s favourite is Plage de la Feuillèr.

The island has a small town, Grand-Bourg, and two fishing villages, making it feel almost deserted in places.

Introduced to Guadeloupe

by Columbus and cultivated here by Brazilian colonists, sugar cane plantations sprung up across the island, followed by the commensurate rhum distilleries. Of five original

270

guadeloupe

antigua & guadeloupe

plants on Marie-Galante, three remain, producing a legendary 59% proof tipple. There are five further distilleries to be found on the other islands.

What’s more, is that without ‘Appellation’ certification, Gwada’s distilleries are able to mix things up a little.

They produce, among others, molasses-based varieties and blends made from black cane, aged in armagnac barrels,

Tip(ple): Blend in with the locals and try Gwada’s answer to the American Old-Fashioned cocktail, the Ti’ Punch.

Pronounced ‘tee~paunch’ it is a generous dose of Guadeloupe rhum agricole, rounded out with touch of lime juice and a splash of cane syrup. Salut!

concocting a rhum with a sweet, grassy flavour that is quite unique.

Cane harvesting is still done in places with oxen, crushed in windmills, which makes rhum from Guadeloupe, and MarieGalante particularly, something quite special.

The shell of a colonial villa, Habitation Murat, remains standing, hinting at Marie-Galante’s rhuminfused glory days.

271

272

guadeloupe

antigua & guadeloupe

Image credit: Yvan Zedda

Route du Rhum Organised by OC Sport, the ‘Route du RhumDestination Guadeloupe’ is a 3,542-nautical mile solo transatlantic yacht race which takes place every four years, starting from Saint-Malo in Brittany and finishing in Pointe-à-Pitre in Guadeloupe.

The race was first held in 1978 and in its 40th anniversary year in 2018, the race celebrated a record number of entries, with 123 male and female skippers, in six classes, taking to the start line.

Image credit: Alexis Courcoux

273

Scuba diving

Reserve is not to be missed, just off the centre of Basse-Terre’s western coastline.

coral and all manner of tropical fish are common.

The islands are Not so common is a large surrounded by a network bronze bust of Jacques of coral reefs and volcanic Cousteau himself down substrate. The most Though there are plenty in the ‘Coral Garden’, popular area for diving is of sites for all experience donning his trademark the western coast of Bass- levels, a couple of sites red woolly hat. (Now Terre, which is the site of are reserved for Advanced there’s a selfie to collect!) the Cousteau Marine Park. Open Water Divers only. A Most diving is at depths particular favourite is La Other spots known for of 10 to 20 metres on reefs Grotte aux Baracudas, turtles are near Bouilwith sponges and coral a gorgeous blue cave lante, a little down the growths, though deeper with plenty of huge coast, while the protected and more challenging barracudas, described reserve around Petitedives are also available. locally as “XXL”.

Terre, on the eastern side of the archipelago Jacques Cousteau claimed As you would expect, are musts, described as that Pigeon Island was waters here are regular an open-air aquarium, one of the best diving stomping ground for dol- including rays, lemon spots in the world and phins and whales, while sharks and more fish than the Cousteau Underwater turtles, small sharks, eels, you can shake a stick at.

Guadeloupe is a French overseas region and is in the EU (and Schengen), with the same visa rules applicable.

Its currency is the euro and its hypermarkets’ shelves resemble those in Europe.

274

dining·out

A

antigua & guadeloupe

antigua·dining·out

ntigua’s diverse population is reflected in its cuisine, with ubiquitous staples including roti, curries, conch fritters, shawarma, and the national dish, Fungee and Pepperpot. This hearty meat stew served with a cornmeal and okra side is probably something you may prefer to leave to the locals, so here are some dining suggestions that may be more appealing.

SHEER ROCKS AT COCOBAY RESORT (+1 268-562-4510, Ffryes Beach, Valley Road, St. Mary’s). The cliff-edge restaurant here is generally regarded one of the best in the Caribbean. While it won’t guarantee one of its six tables with uninterrupted views, these are the ones to secure.

JACQUI O’S BEACHHOUSE (+1 268-5622218, Sir Andy Roberts Drive, Crab Hill, St. Mary’s) is a relaxed British-owned beachfront restaurant set on one the best beaches in the area. Commended for its cocktails, cuisine is Frenchinspired with a Caribbean twist.

CATHERINE’S CAFÉ (+1 268-460-5050, Pigeon Point Beach, Falmouth Harbour) is an institution, on Pigeon Beach for over twenty years. Now managed by the same team behind Sheer Rocks, Catherine’s continues to delight its regulars who CLOGGY’S (+1 268-460-6910, Dockyard Drive, return time after time for its ProvenceAntigua Yacht Club Marina, Falmouth). In a inspired menu and quality wine list. new location, Dutch-owned Cloggy’s is CAMBUSA (+1 268-562-2226, Rodes one of our favourites in Antigua, voted Lane, Falmouth). Italian restaurant ‘World’s Best Yachting Bar 2018’ in in a quiet, seafront location. Classic Scuttlebutt’s annual sailing survey. dishes prepared from the freshest local ABRACADABRA RESTAURANT AND ingredients, made in front of diners in its show kitchen.

DISCO-BAR (+1 268 460 27 01, Dockyard Drive, English Harbour, St Paul’s). This Italian restaurant and nightclub remains PAPA ZOUK (+1 268 464 6044, Hilda Davis Drive, Dickenson Bay Street, St John). In an a firm favourite for yacht guests and crew alike, for great food, wine and for a unlikely suburban setting, this colourful shack-like restaurant stocks some 250 dance when the volume is turned up. varieties of rum to accompany its fish and seafood repertoire.

SUN RA (+1 268-720-3826, Dockyard Drive, English Harbour). Accessible by dinghy, Sun Ra is an unassuming wooden house on the water, serving fresh, homemade Mediterranean style cuisine.

275

N

guadeloupe·dining·out

o Michelin stars in Guadeloupe, but there are some decent, rustic local options available.

Service, as in parts of France, can be quite variable…

AU BON VIVRE (+590 590 94-1984, 31 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut) serves French cuisine, to a good standard and in smarter surroundings than average.

UN TI BÓ DOUDOU (+590 590 98-5667, 58 Rue Benoit Cassin, Terre-de-Haut) in a restored Créole building overlooking the beach and serves a range of French, Caribbean and sea food.

TI KAZ LA (+590 690 65-5228, 10 Rue Benoit Cassin, Terre-de-Haut) is a fun and arty terrace on the beach. French, Caribbean, European cuisine with flair. The mango soufflé dessert is a speciality and must be ordered in advance.

CAFE DE LA MARINE (+590 590 99-5378, 19 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut) as the name would suggest, is sea food restaurant, serving fresh catch overlooking the dock.

COULEURS DU MONDE (+590 590 92-7098, 33 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut) is a beach shack in a terrific setting. Basic, but charming, good food, with plastic chairs.

276

277

important information

PALMA DE MALLORCA, THE BEST LOCATION FOR YOUR REFIT.

BE ONE OF US www.group-ipm.com

www.stp-palma.com t. +34 971 214 747-info@stp-palma.com

S H I P YA R D PA L M A

REFIT & REPAIR SHIPYARD

Maintaining your passion since 1942

CREW WEAR Support at every stage of your journey Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532

282

Important·info

spain

important information / spain In order for us to assist you in the best possible way, we would like to make you aware of the following important points: • Inform us with your best E.T.A. and the name of your last port.

• On arrival, please NOTE THAT IS OBLIGATORY TO PRESENT AN ARRIVAL NOTICE TO THE AUTHORITIES if your last port is not in Spain.

• Should your last port be in a NON-EU Country, it is compulsory to submit an ARRIVAL CLEARANCE.

We can take care of this, but please send us the following documentation: ARRIVAL NOTICE • Certificate of Registry.

• Yacht Insurance Certificate.

• Crew & Guests List.

ARRIVAL/ DEPARTURE CLEARANCE • • • •

Certificate of Registry* Yacht Insurance Certificate* Crew & Guests List* Passports (all the crew and guests, if on board).

• Seaman books (If available). *2 copies stamped and signed by the Captain, to present to the Immigration Authorities.

rules·regulations

283

• Prior to departure to any port outside of Spain, IT IS OBLIGATORY TO PRESENT A DEPARTURE NOTICE TO THE AUTHORITIES. • Should your NEXT port be in a NON-EU Country, IT IS COMPULSORY TO CARRY OUT A DEPARTURE CLEARENCE WITH THE AUTHORITIES.

DECLARATION OF CASH ON BOARD Please note it is important to declare any cash amount you have on board above 100.000 Euros (or the equivalent in any other currency).

CASH TO MASTER In case you need cash on board, please note that you can transfer money to us and get cash on board tanks to our CTM service. Please note it is important to declare any cash transfer above 9.999 Euros.

Should any crew (NON EU) disembark the boat and leave the island (be this on a temporary or permanent basis) passports must be stamped by authorities on departure and on return to the vessel.

FISHING LICENcE If you are wanting to experience fishing in Balearic waters you will need to apply for a license. In order to do so we would need registry of the vessel and a photocopy of the passport of the owner of the vessel.

If you require a spear fishing license it is obligatory to have a medical certificate stating that they can do this activity and a copy of their passport.

rules·regulations

285

indispensable information / balearics Please note that berthing and sailing through National Park areas of the Balearic Islands requires previous authorisation.

A fine can be issued should you not have said authorisation.

We can provide to you with the necessary authorisation, but please note: • Any vessel exceding 500GT regardless if the yacht is commercial or private, must have pilotage. Failure to do so will result in a 12.000€ fine.

• Should any crew (NON EU) disembark the boat and leave the island (be this on a temporary or permanent basis) passports must be stamped by authorities on departure and on return to the vessel.

Authorization for Navigation In protected areas It is compulsory for all the vessels to have a license for the use of PWC or personal watercrafts (Jet Ski’s). We have specific courses for obtaining these licenses and we can organize the courses ON BOARD your vessel.

Please contact us for more information. Once again, failure to present the license to authorities will result in a fine.

Cabrera National Park Authorisations Can be issued 21 days before your berthing date.

There is very limited buoy availability however.

Maximum LOA 40 mts. Tax Cost 132.74€

To counter the use of RIBS or RHIBS for the purpose of human trafficking and trafficking in illicit goods, Spain now requires operators of such vessels to register. Contact us to ensure your tender complies with the new Register of Operators

286

Important·info

balearics·spain

help with anchorage in the balearic islands http://dgrechid.caib.es/www/ajuda_fondeig/en.html The Balearic Islands Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning has developed this tool, to make it easier for boats to anchor without damaging the sea bed, particularly the posidonia prairies, which have been classified as a priority habitat in annex I to the Habitat Directive (Directive 92/43/ EEC), including all the sites of community importance (SCIs) that must be protected.

The posidonia cartography was created by the Balearic Islands Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning taking into account the maps drawn up in the LIFE Posidonia project and the MAGRAMA. The other layers of information are extracted from the Web Map Service (WMS) services published in the Balearic Islands Spatial Data Infrastructure (IDEIB). *Note: This tool is available for Android, iOS and Blackberry OS platforms and any other platform compatible with HTML5.

To help you identify Posidonia areas, use the APP from this link:

Legend Protected natural areas National park Natural park Natural landscape Natural reserve Special natural reserve Protection area (PORN) Natural monument Source: Government of the Balearic Islands, Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning.

Natura 2000 Network (SCI) Natura 2000 Network (SCI)

Areas making up the sites of community interest (SCIs) of the Natura 2000 Network for the protection of European habitats on the Balearic Islands. It includes the details of the extension of the special protection areas for birds (SPAs) approved by the Balearic Islands government on 30 May 2008 (BOIB num. 78 EXT, dated 4-6-2008).

Source: Government of the Balearic Islands, Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning.

help·with·anchorage

287

Posidonia

Toolbar

Delimitation of Posidonia prairie

The toolbar at the top includes icons that can be used to expand the image, determine the geographical location and obtain information about the possibility of anchoring.

Posidonia Life-MAGRAMA Source: LIFE Posidonia project, Government of the Balearic Islands, Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning

Restricted anchorage The restricted anchorage areas are established in order to preserve biodiversity and prevent the impact of anchoring on the sea bed.

In these areas, boats have to moor to the specially provided buoys and anchors cannot be thrown on to the sea bed.

Anchorage prohibited Restricted anchorage Source: Government of the Balearic Islands, Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning.

Discharges Layers of geospatial information on the elements governing discharges at sea.

Discharges Source: Government of the Balearic Islands, Ministry of Agriculture, the Environment and Regional Planning; General Directorate of Regional Planning, Coasts Service.

Click on this button to expand the map Click on this button to reduce the map Click on this button to determine the geographical location (you need to have the GPS and the browser location option activated) Click on this button to find out if you can anchor Click on this button to make searches by place name

Table of contents You can use these buttons to change the appearance of the map. You can see the topographical map instead of the aerial photograph (orthophotograph) and superimpose the layers of information.

Activate the 2010-2011 orthophotograph of the Balearic Islands (IDEIB) Activate the topographical map of the Balearic Islands (IDEIB) Activate the various layers of information (IDEIB) Activate the nautical charts layer Show the help for the application

288

Important·info

balearics·spain

Cabrera National Park rules & regulations PERMITTED ACTIVITIES • The viewing of wildlife on the island.

• The taking of non professional photographs, without entering unauthorized areas.

• All activities which don’t disrupt or alter the landscape and natural values and cultures of the park.

ACTIVITIES THAT NEED AUTHORISATION/PERMISSION • Professional photography, filming, videos, etc.

• Diving.

• Sailing and anchoring.

• Any commercial activity that is to be carried out in a fixed establishment.

• The acting as tourist guide within the park.

PROHIBITED ACTIVITIES • The disposal of waste • The extraction or removal of any natural material.

• The removal or alteration of any archaeological object.

• The collection of material (living or not).

• The planting or removal of plant and animal species.

• Start fires and smoking.

• Anchor/Berth outside of the authorized areas.

• Camping within/ on any section of the park.

• Any form of hunting.

• Fishing.

• Stepping foot on the park at any other point other than the designated area (pier of the port).

• Explore the park outside of the designated foot paths and trails.

• Diving in Apnea during the months of May and June where the species Scyllarides latus grows.

contact us for your authorisations

Since 1991 Jeroni Antich, 7 07003 Palma de Mallorca 971 71 68 04 635 37 28 21 yerbabuenaa.com.es info@yerbabuena.com.es Yerbabuena Mallorca Yerbabuena.Mallorca

290

Important·info

balearics·spain

Obligations for Captains for Entry and Departure from Mallorca Estela Yachting’s resident expert on Spanish immigration laws, Kristy Hollingsworth, provides an update on the latest rules and regulations for yachts entering or departing Spanish ports.

W

hen a yacht arrives from outside the European Union, for example Gibraltar, Morocco, Melilla or Monaco, all passports and Seaman’s Book, or copy of the crew members’ contracts, stamped and signed crew list, and a copy of yachts’ registry must be presented. The authorities issue an authorisation letter of entry clearance into the EU. The same applies if Spain is the last EU port before departure from the Union. Once all documentation has been received and verified, the yacht is given clearance to exit EU waters.

When there is a crew change on board Any member who is signed on to a yacht as a seafarer (with seaman’s book or work contract) is permitted to leave the boat and move freely around the entire island without coming to border control in Mallorca. In ports around the rest of Europe, crew are restricted to a 10km radius from where the yacht is berthed.

details, stamped crew list and copy of yacht registry, to port authorities.

• When a crew member joins a yacht, the same process applies; their passport will be stamped out of the EU, to show that they have embarked on the yacht.

• Crew members are not permitted to go to Barcelona, France or anywhere else, unless they have signed off and Shore travel restrictions ceased to be a seafarer. If a crew • If a crew member leaves the yacht and member wishes to leave Mallorca, travels beyond the permitted radius, they are required to come to border the relationship between seafarer and control and enter the EU. If a crew yacht is broken; they are now merely member holds an EU passport, they a tourist. To avoid this, crew members are still required to attend the port need to present their passport, authority for verification of their Seaman’s Book or contract, flight passport in the police database.

spain·balearics

291

Consignatarios in immigration or failing to check crew passports to ensure they have the requisite and clearance stamps, that may be considered wilful ‘Consignatarios’ (consignees), like Estela negligence. Fines, or even a custodial Shipping, are required in all cases where sentence, may be issued if a Captain there is a visa application and transit intentionally fails to comply with visa requirement, as these requests their obligations. can only be done by cosignatarios, regardless of the length of the yacht.

Exceptions Where a yacht arrives into EU port The most common costly mistake from within Europe but from outside made in Palma the Schengen Area — such as Monaco, If a crew member does not visit border control upon arrival in Spain and boards Melilla, Gibraltar, United Kingdom, Ireland, Croatia, Bulgaria, Romania and a yacht without an entry stamp from Cyprus— they are required to obtain the authorities, they are illegal citizens arrival clearance into the EU. Likewise, in the country. Upon a passport check, when they depart the Schengen Area for they can be detained, returned home a non-Schengen jurisdiction. and refused entry into the EU for up to three years. Such a simple mistake Guests embarking/disembarking can cause tremendous upset and prove a charter very costly, so it is advisable to always • When the yacht is cruising in the check with a consigatario to ensure you Schengen Area, there is no need to comply. inform port authorities.

Liability for correct stamps • A passport is the responsibility of the crew member to whom it belongs.

While the Captain must inform crew of their obligations and ensure documentation is complete and up to date, responsibility for the requisite stamps remains with the crew member.

• In the event that the Captain omits to follow correct procedures, such as failing to advise Border Control when crew are embarking or disembarking,

• When the yacht departs the Schengen Area with guests on board, all guest passports must be presented to port authorities.

When a crew member’s contract runs out • When a crew member’s contract runs out and they are no longer contracted on board, they must attend the port authority to enter Spain. They cease to be a seafarer and are now a tourist, requiring them to complete due process.

292

Important·info

balearics·spain

• In the event that they are flying home at the end of their work contract, they must present a valid passport, Seaman’s Book and declare their intention, and present a flight ticket.

• In the event that they intend to stay in the country, they must present applicable travel visas, hotel confirmations, proof of sufficient funds, and medical insurance.

• If they are EU citizens, they must present their passport to certify that they can legally enter the EU. What is a Schengen Transit Visa?

A Schengen Transit Visa provides a limited number of ‘transit days’, enabling seafarers to get to the yacht from their home country, or vice versa. The visa provides a grace period from the time of departure —usually three days— to get to their destination, in either direction.

Requirements to apply for a transit visa depend on the flag of the ship and the nationality of the seafarer.

Seafarers from outside the Schengen Area and who are not covered by a valid Schengen tourist visa, are required to have a valid Schengen Transit Visa whenever they intend to: • Join a vessel that is (or will be) in a Schengen port.

• Transfer from one vessel to another vessel which is (or will be) docked in a Schengen port.

• Disembark for any reason, including end of contract, sickness, repatriation, urgent family matters, holiday...

Note: • A transit visa does not allow holiday travel through Europe and is valid for transit only. Should someone be caught doing so, they can be detained and returned home and denied entry into the EU for up to three years.

• Tourists visas are valid for no longer than 90 days and are valid strictly for leisure travel in the EU. They do not permit the holder to work on yachts or anywhere else within the EU. If in doubt about visas, travel and work restrictions in Mallorca, contact us on +34 971 722 532, or email palma@estelashipping.net

294

Important·info

jet·ski·rules

Kindly be informed that Jet Skis as per Spanish regulations can only be managed by someone with A Jet Ski License. This can be obtained by doing a one day course which can be done on board or at the Jet Ski school. You must be 18 in order to obtain a license and drive one. Those who do not have a license are allowed to be driven by a carrier of said license.

jet ski rules It is forbidden to drive a Jet Ski less than 200m from the beach, thus avoiding accidents with swimmers, and less than 50m in the rest of the coast within a navigation channel with buoys, access to the coast or a beach without these channels, or within a port, at a maximum speed of 3 knots.

The Jet Ski must be 100 meters away from any other vessel before exceeding 5 knots and must carry a method of communication to be carried at all times (i.e. mobile phone/VHF).

You are not allowed to practice this sport within ports, access channels, in areas of mooring buoys or in areas with a high concentration of boats, whether they are sailing or moored, as well as areas where there are sailing regattas.

The Jet Ski cannot be at a distance of two nautical miles from the coast.

When on a Jet Ski whether it be, driving or passenger they must use an approved life jacket, with a minimum of 150 Newton buoyant.

You are allowed to use water toys with a Jet Ski as long as it has the correct tow bar at the rear of the Jet Ski.

If you wish to Waterski or Wakeboard you are allowed to as long as the second person on the Jet Ski is sitting facing the person being towed. The maximum number of people allowed on the Jet Ski is indicated by the manufacturer.

The minimum age for the handling of the bike is 18 years. However, minors who are 16 years and provide written consent of a parent or guardian ans is registered at any Harbormaster.

The registration shall appear on both sides of the vehicle and is compulsory to carry at least third party insurance.

You can only use the bikes during the day, from sunrise until one hour before sunset.

marinas & shipyards

295

book your berth It is advisable to get your bookings in before the season starts to avoid disappointment.

PALMA BAY 1. Servicios Técnicos Portuarios STP 39°33’50”N - 2°38’23”E

MAX LENGTH: 120M DEPTH: 7.5M BERTHS: 53

2. MARINA MOLL VELL 39°33’59”N - 2°38’33”E

MAX LENGTH: 42M DEPTH: 5M BERTHS: 25

One of the safest and most advanced shipyards in Europe it is a technical area of reference for the repair and maintenance of ships.

Situated in the very heart of Palma.

The Marina offers also three fine-dining restaurants in diverse styles, internal parking, security guards and WIFI connection.

Muelle Viejo, Palma.

C/ Moll 8, Palma.

296

Important·info

3. Astilleros de Mallorca 39°33’59”N - 2°38’22”E

balearics·spain

7. PANTALAN DEL MEDITERRANEO 39°33’42”N - 2°37’48”E

MAX LENGTH: 120M DEPTH: 7.5M BERTHS: 53 The shipyard offers a full range of inhouse services, covering all needs and requirements of yachts, with facilities for hauling up to 1700 tons and around 100m in length, as well as an exterior berthing quay for vessels of up to 110m.

Contramuelle Mollet 11, Palma.

MAX LENGTH: 128M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 61 Situated on the famous Paseo Marítimo in the Center of Palma de Mallorca this marina offers berths up to 128M and within walking distance to the city center.

Avenida de Gabriel Roca s/n, Palma.

4. MARINA NAVIERA BALEAR

MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 70 Marina Palma Cuarentena, is located on the seafront of Palma de Mallorca, just opposite the Estela Shipping office.

Paseo Marítimo, Palma.

39º 33’30’’N / 2º 38’00’’E

MAX LENGTH: 30M MAX DRAUGHT: 3M VHF CH.8 Avenida de Gabriel Roca 4, Palma.

5. REAL CLUB NáUTICO 39°33’52”N - 2°38’2”E

MAX LENGTH: 35M DEPTH: 1.5-4M BERTHS: 971 Fueling can be provided here by truck.

6. MARINA PORT DE MALLORCA 39°33’49”N - 2°37’48”E

MAX LENGTH: 50M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 200 Centrally Located on Palma’s Paseo Marítimo.

Paseo Marítimo s/n (in front of Hotel Victoria), Palma.

8. MARINA CUARENTENA 39°33’40”N - 2°37’44”E

9. CLUB DE MAR 39°33’22”N - 2°37’45”E

MAX LENGTH: 350M DEPTH: 10M BERTHS: 575 Club de Mar, Muelle Pelaires, Palma.

mallorca

A. PORT CALANOVA 39°54’N - 2°59E

MAX LENGTH: 25M Calanova, Avda. Joan Miró 327, Palma.

B. PUERTO PORTALS 39°32”N - 2°35”E

MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 2-4M BERTHS: 639 Located 10km from the center of Palma, this marina is a prestigious nautical and leisure complex on the island and the Mediterranean.

Edificio de Capitanía, Portals Nous, Calviá.

marinas & shipyards C. PORT ADRIANO 39°29’21”N - 2°28’40”E

MAX LENGTH: 80M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 480 This newly designed marina by Phillipe Stark is one of the most modern marinas in the Mediterranean, with an array of premium services in a highly functional environment.

Urbanizacion el Toro, Calviá.

d. PUERTO DE ANDRATX

297 e. PUERTO DE SóLLER 39°47’41.7”N - 2°41’21.3”E

MAX LENGTH: 60M BERTHS: 465 Port of Sóller is situated on the west coast of Mallorcas Tramuntana mountain range. The formation of its essential infrastructure dates back to the 18th Century.

C/ Moll comercial, Puerto de Sóller

F. PUERTO DE ALCUDIA 39°49’58.1”N - 3°08’20.3”E

MAX LENGTH: 30M MAX LENGTH: 60M BERTHS: 222 DEPTH: 2-4M BERTHS: 744 This port is situated on the southwestern Situated on the northern coast of Mallorca. tip of the Tramuntana mountain range. Paseo Marítimo 1, Port d’Alcudia.

Av. Gabriel Roca 27, Puerto de Andratx.

39°32’41.2”N - 2°23’05”E

298

Important·info

spain IBIZA

Marina Ibiza

38°54’55.08”N - 1°26’38.18”E

MAX LENGTH: 55M DEPTH: 6M BERTHS: 380 Marina Ibiza is situated in the heart of Ibiza 11 miles from Formentera.

Paseo Juan Carlos I, 20.

Ibiza Magna

38°54’38.59”N - 1°26’12.26”E

MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 85 Situated at the foot of Dalt Vila right in the city center.

Contramuelle de Poniente Puerto de Ibiza.

Barcelona Marina Vela

41°21’48.9”N - 2°11’12.8”E

MAX LENGTH: 100M Pg. Joan de Borbó 103 - Moll de Llevant Port de Barcelona

marinas & shipyards

italy

ALGHERO Aquatica Marina & Yacht Services Alghero

40°33’883’’N - 8°18’405’’E

MAX LENGTH: 70M VHF CH 16-74 Banchina Sanità - Porto di Alghero Tel/FAX (+39) 079983199 Mobile (+39) 3332074951 (+39) 3481303966 info@aquaticamarina.com

Olbia Marina di Olbia Yacht Services

40°55’018’’N - 9°31’435’’E

VHF CH 9 Via Piovene, 8 – Loc. Sa Marinedda +39 0789 645030 24h number: +39 338 8765449

VIBO VALENTIA MARINA CARMELO 38°43N - 16°08‘E

MAX LENGTH: 100M VHF CH 16/12 LIFTING UP TO 360 TONS. Marina “Carmelo” Via Emilia, 64

Viareggio ARPECA SHIPYARD

43°51’27.0”N - 10°14’22.8”E 560 TONS TRAVEL LIFT +39 0584.388855

La Spezia Porto Mirabello

44°05’56.9”N - 9°50’00.7”E MAX LENGTH: 130M VHF CH 73 Port Director Daniela Pellini Viale Italia +39 0187 778108

Gibraltar La Linea

Alcaidesa Marina

36º 09’31’’N - 5º 22’03’’W MAX LENGTH: 90M VHF CH 9 (+34) 956 021 660

Antigua ANTIGUA YACHT CLUB MARINA & RESORT

17°00’44.8”N - 61°46’22.5”W MAX LENGTH: 120M VHF CH 9 OR 68 +1 (268) 460-1544 aycmarina@candw.ag

Falmouth Harbour Marina

17°00’51.0”N - 61°46’16.0”W

VHF CH 10 P.O. Box W 792. Antigua, West Indies (268) 460-6054 10 antiguafalmar@gmail.com

300

interview

italian·customs·agency

Which are the standard obligations for a private yacht entering and leaving territorial waters?

Private yachts flying the non-EU flag that intend to navigate and stop in the EU waters for a lapse of time shorter than 18 months can use the “special regime” procedure called “temporary admission” established by the new Union Customs Code (Reg. 952 (EU) No. 952/2013).

The special temporary admission procedure may be used only if goods are not intended to be altered, except for their normal depreciation to be expected following their use, and if identification of the goods subject to the procedure can be guaranteed.

italian customs agency Interview with Dr. Davide Bellosi and Dr. Paola Pimpinella

Under this customs procedure, for non-EU private yachts, at the moment of their entry into the EU waters, total exemption from payment of customs duties (duty and VAT) is envisaged,

Dr. Davide Bellosi Dr. Paola Pimpinella

and therefore free movement is possible on condition that the yacht in question is registered outside the customs territory of the EU in the name of a person established outside the same territory.

Furthermore, the yacht must be used by a person established outside the Union customs territory.

Lastly, the yacht cannot remain in the Italian/ EU waters for more than 18 months, after which the craft must leave EU waters or be imported to avoid smuggling.

301

Are there any differences in these obligations depending on the size of the yacht? As regards the classification of vessels for pleasure boating, it is necessary to refer to the leisure boating Code. This latter defines “pleasure yacht” any construction of any type and by any means of propulsion intended for leisure sailing, “navi da diporto” those units with a hull longer than 24 meters, “imbarcazioni da diporto” those units with hulls from 10 to 24 meters in length and “natanti da diporto” those rowing or motorized units with a hull length of 10 meters or less.

For customs purposes, the size of the pleasure craft is not relevant but rather its use that may be private or commercial. Here we are analyzing the “pleasure boats for private use” (Pleasure Yachts). Please note that also pleasure yachts may have commercial relevance when these boats are rented or leased.

This means that pleasure yachts at the time of final importation have not the obligation to register in the Maritime Register required by the Navigation Code, as required by the aforementioned article for commercial vessels.

Therefore, for pleasure yachts there is no need to change the flag.

Are fuels relieved of payment of VAT? The refueling of a leisure yacht carried out in an Italian port is subject to different regulatory provisions and in particular to customs laws, VAT and excise regulations. The refueling operation (so-called bunkering) for pleasure yachts can be exempted only from the payment of the excise duty if the conditions established by art. 254 of the Customs Laws (Presidential Decree No. 43/1973) are met.

This article establishes the exemption from payment of the excise duty for “the Italian and foreign leisure craft, provided they are departing from a seaport of the State with direct Are there any differences in these destination to a foreign port, and on obligations depending on the flag? condition that the departure takes The article 36 of the National Customs place within eight hours subsequent Laws (Presidential Decree No. 43/1973) at the 4th paragraph states that “leisure to the embarkation and is noted in the departures and arrivals logbook for the craft are intended for consumption embarkation of duty free provisions and inside or outside the customs territory on the release of an ordinary declaration on condition that, in case of return to a national port, the call in the foreign of definitive importation or definitive port is proven by the visa affixed in the exportation respectively by the shipdepartures and arrivals logbook for the owner”.

302

interview

italian·customs·agency

embarkation of duty free provisions by the foreign maritime or customs authority; if the aforementioned conditions do not occur, benefits already granted are considered revoked and the penalties established by the current tax laws are applied.”

The transaction is taxable for VAT purposes, unlike bunkering operations for commercial yachts. In addition, for the customs legislation, the refueling trader is required to present the relevant export bill to the Customs.

Unlike ordinary exports of goods, where shipping abroad involves an actual crossing of the customs border, the supply of onboard supplies (bunkering) is instead characterized by the delivery of the product within the territory/ territorial waters. In particular, delivery takes place on board the pleasure yacht in a national port.

Which are the import/ export declarations upon the captain, the crew and the passengers? A non-EU pleasure yacht circulating in the EU waters under temporary admission is required to lodge to the Customs the currency

declaration related to the cash entering or leaving the European Union.

This obligation is established by the Regulation (EC) No. 1889/2005 called “Regulation on the control of cash”.

The Community Regulation has made directly applicable in each of the Member States a common surveillance system on cash movements for an amount equal to or higher than € 10,000.00 incoming or outgoing from the European Union. In addition to the Community legislation, the national

303

legislator has issued Legislative Decree No. 195/2008 concerning amendments and additions to the afore mentioned union legislation on currency matters.

This Decree extends the obligation to declare cash movements among Italy and other Union countries.

Therefore, the pleasure yacht captain and/or crew and/or passengers have the obligation to submit the cash declaration for an amount equal to or higher than € 10,000.00, whether they arrive from an EU or non-EU country or go to an EU or non-EU country. For example, a leisure yacht arriving in the Port of Viareggio, first national port of arrival, and coming from a French or Spanish port must submit the currency declaration of the cash kept on board and higher than 10,000.00 euro.

The currency declaration must also be lodged if the money remains on board the vessel. This currency declaration must be forwarded to the territorially competent Customs, depending on the circumstances, in the first entry point or in the last exit point of the national territory, and there is no obligation to declare movements of cash within the territory of the State.

What are the most frequently asked questions by yacht commanders?

In addition to the special temporary admission regime and the handling of cash, we are often asked whether it is possible to interrupt the time-limit for

discharge of the temporary admission regime. The new Union Customs Code has removed the rules according to which it was possible to interrupt the temporary admission regime and thus to extend the term for the craft to remain in the Union territory without being used (for example boats kept in garaging).

However, the EU legislator has foreseen “exceptional circumstances” when the authorized use cannot be completed within the period (art. No. 251, paragraph 3 of the Union Code).

Therefore, the Customs Authority may grant an extension for a reasonable lapse of time upon a justified request by the holder of the procedure. This special situation must be by its very nature exceptional, that is it must be extraordinary, peculiar and unusual.

Can work on leisure yacht be carried out under the temporary admission procedure? The temporary admission procedure is granted on condition that the position of the goods placed under the procedure remains the same. However, under the afore mentioned procedure, repairs and routine maintenance operations may be authorized, including regular inspections and fine-tuning or measures intended to preserve goods.

For extraordinary maintenance works, however, the inward processing regime must be used.

304

Important·info

rules·regulations

La Maddalena Marine Park Regulations Access to the National Park marine area by boat

Activities of anchoring Anchoring is only permitted in MB zones for small craft and on lifeless sea beds. Anchoring is prohibited in areas where Posidonia Oceanica sea grass is present.

All boats which access the marine park area must obtain an authorisation from the Park Authority.

Permission can be obtained at Park Authority offices, from the Park Authority website and from authorised harbours or companies. Navigating, stopping, mooring and anchoring is not allowed in MA zones.

The speed limit for vessels navigating within 300 metres of the coast is 7 (seven) knots. Beyond 300 metres, the speed limit is 15 (fifteen) knots.

Between 1st June to 30th September, anchoring in the MB zone is only permitted between sunrise and sunset and in any case no later than 10pm. However, boats fitted with holding tanks and owned by residents of the community of la Maddelena may anchor in the Mb zone after this time.

ATTENTION: La Maddalena Coast Guard has the autority to reduce the speed limit within the Park area, so please refer to the Park Authority for further informations.

Activities of mooring From 1st June to 30th October in MB zones mooring is allowed only between sunrise and sunset, and in any case not after 10pm, apart for boats with holding tanks, which can moor even after the time stated. Anchoring is not permitted in MB zones where ”mooring fields” have been created. For security reasons only one vessel is permitted to use each mooring buoy.

A moored craft must keep the automatic bilge pump switched off during its stay. In daylight hours docking and mooring to a fixed harbour quay, pier or pontoon in the smaller islands of the Archipelago, is permitted within certain limits only for boarding and landing of passengers purposes.

During night hours docking and mooring to a fixed harbour quay, pier or pontoon, in the smaller islands, is allowed only for residents and natives of the Municipality of La Maddalena for boats fitted with holding tanks.

Recreational fishing General rules In the MA zones any type of fishing is prohibited. In the MB zones recreational fishing can be practised on board

la·maddalena

a sailing vessel, on land or underwater according to the detailed regulations and upon possession of appropriate authorization, as summarized on the remainder of this page. The quantity of the catch must not exceed 5 kilograms a day per person, unless such an amount is exceeded by the capture of one specimen.

Fishing of single species The daily removal of sea urchins (Paracentrotus lividus) must not exceed 25 specimens per person, with a dimension of not less than 6 cm in diameter, spines excluded, and is permitted only if carried out by hand. The taking of Sea Urchins is prohibited from 3rd May to 30th October and is only permitted subject to the granting of authorization for recreational fishing from land.

The daily removal of warty or yellow crab (Eriphia verrucosa) must not exceed 3 specimens per person, the dimensions not less than 14cm for the length of the body shell; the removal of warty or yellow crabs is prohibited from 15th September to the 15th November and is only otherwise permitted subject to the granting of authorization for sport fishing from land.

305

The removal of the following species is prohibited: a. Grouper (Ephinepleus sp.) b. Wreck fish (Polyprion americanus) c. Brown Meagre (Sciaena umbra) d. Noble Pen shell (Pinna nobilis) e. Limpets (Patella ferruginea) WARNING: the fishing of other species, even if upon possession of the general authorization of the Park, could be banned by other regional, national or european laws.

Underwater Recreational Fishing Underwater fishing is permitted only to residents of the Municipality of La Maddalena, of 18 years or over, provided they are equipped with the appropriate nominal pass, not transferable to a third parties, from 1st June to 30 September, only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and National holidays, only without breathing apparatus and from sunrise to sunset.

Those not falling into the above category are not allowed to perform any underwater fishing activity.

306

Important·info

To those not falling into the category characterized in the first paragraph, it is permitted, subject to authorization from the Park Authority, the holding and the transportation of equipment use for underwater fishing within the park only by keeping the abovementioned equipment, dismantled, inside an appropriate airtight container.

The collection of coral, shellfish and molluscs, except cephalopods, is absolutely prohibited.

Recreational fishing from boats Fishing from a sailing vessel is permitted only to residents and natives of the Municipality of La Maddalena.

To individuals not falling into the above category, any type of fishing activity is prohibited from pleasure vessels, except that which follows: to residents of the Municipality of Palau, to home owners located in the Municipality of La Maddalena, to workers or military personnel in La Maddalena with contracts or postings of not less than one year, to owners of boat berths for at least four months within the authorised harbour structure of the community of La Maddalena (or who have assigned their pleasure craft for any type of non commercial activity, or dry docking in local shipyards) fishing from boats is allowed, subject to authorization granted free of charge from the Park Authority.

Fishing from boats is allowed only with specific equipment indicated by the Park Authority regulation.

Watch our interactive map online here

rules·regulations

Land based recreational fishing Fishing from the land is permitted to the same people who are allowed to fish from pleasure craft [see above] provided they are equipped with the appropriate nominal authorizatoin, not transferable to third parties, issued free of charge from the Park Authority.

To the individuals not falling into the above category, land based fishing activities are allowed, subject to the granting of authorization free of charge from the Park Authority, with a limit of 100 monthly permits. Fishing from land is permitted only with the following equipment: — Individual fishing rods, not more that 2 (two) for casting or with fishing line with not more than 3 (three) hooks on each one.

— Individual fishing rods, not more than 4 (four) for casting or fishing line with not more than 1 (one) hook.

— Fishing rod or line for use with artificial bait.

— Fishing line for cephalopods with not more than 1 (one) trapping device.

— Handmade fishing rod for the collection of sea urchin.

Island of Budelli — Cala di Roto (“Pink Beach - Spiaggia Rosa”) In the locality of Cala di Roto (“Pink Beach”), on the island of Budelli, and in the area marked by the following geographic coordinates:

la·maddalena

A: Lat.= 41°16’.4 N; Long.=009°21’.5 E B: Lat.= 41°16’.7 N; Long.=009°21’.7 E C: Lat.= 41°16’.8 N; Long.=009°21’.5 E D: Lat.= 41°16’.7 N; Long.=009°21’.2 E Are prohibited: the transit, anchoring or stopping of any sailing vessel; professional or recreational fishing or underwater activities; bathing in the area between the line of the shore and the round boundary buoys; the access and trampling on the shore.

Transit is allowed, only on a route as parallel to the coast as possible and at a speed of not more than 3 knots, for boats and small pleasure craft, as well as authorized traffic, only outside of the boundary of the round buoys with respect of the regulations of other authorities.

Protected dive sites (PIPs) Any type of fishing is prohibited in proteceted dive sites (PIPs) called: “Secca di Spargi” Secca di SpargiSecca di Washington” 41°15’ 17.37” N, 09°19’ 27.653” E 41°15’ 12.603” N, 09°19’ 27.664” E 41°15’ 12.613” N, 09°19’ 21.233” E 41°15’ 17.632” N, 09°19’ 21.234”E “Secca di Spargiottello” 41°15’ 6.133” N, 09°19’ 10.034” E 41°15’ 1.288” N, 09°19’ 10.013” E 41°15’ 1.325” N, 09°19’ 3.536” E 41°15’ 6.124” N, 09°19’ 3.606” E

307

“Punta Coticcio” 41°13’ 17.632” N, 09°28’ 28.081” E 41°13’ 27.905” N, 09°29’ 29.053” E 41°12’ 52.855” N, 09°29’ 29.634” E 41°12’ 52.97” N, 09°29’ 10.457” E “Secca del GrottinoGrottino di S. Francesco” 41°14’ 14.395” N, 09°29’ 4.755” E 41°14’ 7.886” N, 09°29’ 4.761” E 41°14’ 7.902” N, 09°28’56.166” E 41°14’ 14.349” N, 09°28’56.186” E For the safety of the divers the maximum velocity within dive sites is 3 (three) knots; boat drivers must pay the highest attention to divers and must immediately turn off the engines in case of diver down flags (scuba flags) or buoys.

Anchoring within the PIPs is forbidden; mooring is only allowed to the submerged buoys. Scuba diving in the PIPs is only allowed for diving centers authorized by the Park Authority; scuba diving made by indivividuals not accompanied by authorized diving centers is not allowed.

Within the Park area, yachting, sports fishing, diving, and economic activities linked to the sea are allowed by previous issue of specific authorizations only. For advice on any matters, please contact us on +34 971 722 532 or alternatively via email: estela@superyachts.agency

Win dinner for two at Sublimotion,

the world’s most expensive restaurant!

Sublimotion is not just one of the world’s most exclusive restaurants, it is a truly unique immersive gastronomic experience. You can win dinner for two, in 2020, in a prize worth €3300, courtesy of Estela Yachting.

For your chance to win, send us or share a photograph of ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ book in the most exotic, interesting, fun or amazing place, wherever you happen to find yourself.

Anyone can enter, you may enter multiple times.

The competition closes at midnight on January 31, 2020.

About your photo The photo can be of just the book, a selfie, a group shot, whatever you like, in any location, as long as the front cover is visible. Make it exotic, unique, funny, or creative. Surprise us, anything goes.

Terms & conditions • The competition is open to anyone aged 18 and over and closes at midnight (GMT+1) on January 31, 2020.

• The winner will be chosen by a panel of judges from Estela Yachting and Sublimotion and will be notified within 28 days of the competition closing.

• The winner will be announced via our newsletter, via our social media channels and in the next edition of ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’.

• The prize must be claimed within 21 days of the winner being notified.

• The prize is valid on a choice of six dates available during 2020, to be chosen by the winner. The dinner reservation at Sublimotion must be made before 1st April 2020, via Estela Yachting. We will make our best effort to secure the winner’s favoured date.

• The prize is transferable, just once and prior to booking only.

• No cash or alternative prize is available.

• By entering the competition, you declare that you are the rights holder of any photograph submitted and have the permission of any persons recognisable in the image.

• Estela Shipping Palma SA retains the right to reproduce photographs entered for promotional purposes without limitation.

Full competition terms and conditions are on our website and on our Facebook page.

How to enter Post your photo on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Flickr, or email or WhatsApp it to us. Tag it with #EstelaYachting and #Sublimotion and tell us where it was taken, plus anything else you want us to know about your photo. Be sure to include your name or social media handle or alias, so that we can contact you if you win. You can email your entry to us at palma@estelashipping.net or WhatsApp to +34 696 598403.

Winning entry The winning photo will be chosen on merit, by a judging panel from Estela Yachting and Sublimotion. We will announce the winner in our newsletter and social media channels next February and in the 2020 edition of ‘The Y’ next April.

spain·balearics

311

taxi NUMBERS IN balearics MALLORCA Alaró +34 628 188 820 Alcudia +34 971 549 870 Algaida +34 971 298 200 Andratx +34 971 136 398 Artá +34 609 517 638 Banyalbufar +34 665 823 023 Binissalem +34 626 963 904 Bunyola +34 670 491 030 Calviá +34 971 134 700 Campos +34 971 160 362 Capdepera +34 971 565 656

Costitx +34 619 300 819 Deiá +34 619 096 275 Esporles +34 665 823 023 Felanitx +34 971 824 347 Fornalutx +34 971 638 484 Inca +34 971 881 020 Lloseta +34 971 519 966 Manacor +34 620 507 784 Mancor de la Vall +34 971 881 020 Marratxí +34 971 795 000 Muro +34 971 860 402

Palma +34 971 201 212 +34 971 400 004 +34 971 283 378 Petra +34 620 507 784 Sa Pobla +34 647 946 333 Pollença +34 620 339 960 +34 606 404 894 Porreres +34 971 771 135 Puipunyent +34 648 401 957 Santa Margalida +34 971 850 723 Santanyí +34 971 653 377 Selva +34 629 985 106

Sóller +34 971 638 484 Son Servera +34 971 586 969 Vilafranca de Bonany +34 971 832 123

MENORCA

Radio taxi +34 971 157 000 Asociación Taxi Móvil Ciudadella +34 971 482 222

IBIZA

+34 971 398 483

FORMENTERA Radio Taxi Formentera +34 971 322 342

PHARMACIES

HOSPITALS

Farmacia Progrés

Hospital Universitario Son Espases

Accepts Estela Crew Discounts Cards.

Specialized in Marine First Aid Kits and Beauty Pharm.

Carretera de Valldemosa 79, Palma Tel. +34 871 205 000

Plaça del Progrés 1, Santa Catalina, Palma

Hospital Son Llàtzer

Balearics Pharmacy Finder

Balearics Hospitals link

Carretera Manacor, km 4 Tel. +34 871 202 000

Hospital Quirónsalud Palmaplanas Camí dels Reis 08, Palma (Autovía Palma-Andratx salida 5B) PRIVATE Tel. +34 971 918 000

important·telephone·numbers

313

mallorca important telephone numbers Local Police Emergency: 092

Hospital Palmaplanas: 971 918 001

National Police Emergency: 091

Emergency 24H: 900 844 484

Fire Brigade Palma: 080/112 Rest of Mallorca Fire Brigade: 085 24h Pharmacy: 112 Civil Guard emergency: 062 Spanish Dialing Code: +34 Maritime and Coast Guard: 900 202 202 / 971 724 562 ch #16 VHF Pilot Station: 610 717 876 (14/16 CH)

Civil Protection: 971 176 417 Coast Guards: (16 CH) Tourist Office: 971 724 090 Animal Protection: 971 470 060 Airport: 971 789 000

Decompression Chamber 666 444 999 / 971 73 16 47

agency contact details Estela Shipping Palma Office +34 971 722 532 | estela@superyachts.agency Avenida Gabriel Roca, 37 Local C, 07014 Palma Francesco Gennai (ES, IT, EN, RU, RO) +34 638 816 803 | francesco.gennai@estelashipping.net Kristy Hollingsworth (EN, ES) +34 619 655 955 | kristy.hollingsworth@estelashipping.net POLICE OFFICE

COAST GUARD

EMERGENCY OFFICE

TOURIST OFFICE

ROMA

113

(+39) 0659084409

118

(+39) 0644258441

(+39) 64994 (+39) 063570

CIVITAVECCHIA

113

(+39) 766366401

118

(+39) 0766366566

(+39) 076626121

ALGHERO

113

(+39) 1530

118

(+39) 079979054

(+39) 799739795

TAXI

OLBIA

113

(+39) 1530

118

(+39) 078952206

(+39) 078924999

VIAREGGIO

113

(+39) 1530

118

(+39) 0584962233

(+39) 0584 47000

IBIZA

92

(+34) 971310400

112

(+34) 971301900

(+34) 971307000

MAHÓN

92

(+34) 971363101

112

(+34) 902929015

(+34) 971367111

CIUTADELLA

92

(+34) 971484430

112

(+34) 971382693

(+34) 971381197

GIBRALTAR

199

(+350) 2002777

112

(+350) 20074950

(+350) 20070027

911

(+1 268) 5627600

(+1 268) 7732206

15

(+590) 590820930

(+069) 0634862

(+1268) ANTIGUA (+1 268) 4620671 462 0125 GUADALUPE

17

(+590) 590992226

314

Important·info

2019

REGATTA

13-21/04 Les Voiles de St Barths 17-23/04 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta

regattas·events 2019

BOAT SHOW/EVENT

10-14/04 Croatia Boat Show, Split 11-14/04 Singapore Yacht Show 27/04-1/05 Palma Superyacht Show, Moll Vell 30/04-3/05 MYBA Charter Show, Barcelona

1-5/05 White Island Classics Regatta, Ibiza 3-5/05 Les Dames de Saint-Tropez 21-25/05 Menorca 52 Super Series Sailing Week 27-30/05 Ibiza Regatta Gold Cup

4-8/05 Mediterranean Yacht Show, Nafplion, Greece 8-11/05 The Superyacht Show, Barcelona 9-12/05 Versilia Yachting Rendezvous – Viareggio 9-12/05 Korea International Boat Show 10-13/05 East Med Yacht Show, Piraeus, Greece 16-19/05 World Superyacht Awards, London 17-18/05 The Australian Superyacht Rendezvous, Gold Coast 23-26/05 Sanctuary Cove International Boat Show, Australia 24-26/05 Hamburg Yacht Festival

3-8/06 Loro Piana Superyacht Regatta, Porto Cervo

17-20/05 Newport Charter Yacht Show, Rhode Island

5-9/06 Les Voiles d'Antibes

20-23/06 China Shanghai International Boat Show

18-22/06 Puerto Sherry 52 Super Series Royal Cup, Cadiz 19-22/06 The Superyacht Cup, Palma, Mallorca 19-23/06 Argentario Sailing Week – Porto Santo Stefano, Italy 22/06-1/07 Trophée Bailli de Suffren – St. Tropez to Mahon 22-30/06 Kieler Woche, Kiel 25/06 31st Transatlantic Race, Newport, RI 27-30/06 Spetses Classic Yacht Regatta, Greece 10/07 Transpac Yacht Race (Los Angeles to Honolulu) 12-14/07 Invitational Smeralda 888, Porto Cervo 13-20/07 Panerai British Classic Week, Cowes 15-20/07 Cascais 52 Super Series Sailing Week, Portugal 25-27/07 Candy Store Cup, Newport, RI 27-29/07 Copa del Rey, Palma de Mallorca 3/08 Rolex Fastnet Race, Cowes 10-11/08 Corinthian Classic Yachts Regatta, Marblehead, MA 10-17/08 Lendy Cowes Week 10-18/08 Nantucket Race Week, MA 14-17/08 Vela Clásica Mallorca 23-25/08 Herreshoff Classic Yacht Regatta, Bristol, RI 19-24/08 Rolex TP52 World Championship, Pt Portals, Mallorca 21-26/08 Palermo - Porto Cervo - Montecarlo 27-31/08 Copa del Rey de Barcos d'Epoca, Vela Clasica 31/08-1/09 IYRS Newport Classic Yacht Regatta, RI

315 2019

REGATTA

2019

BOAT SHOW/EVENT

1-7/09 Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup, Porto Cervo

10-15 Sep Cannes Yachting Festival

20/09 Golden Cup, Barcelona

12-15/09 Newport International Boat Show, RI

21-28/09 Régates Royales de Cannes

13-22/09 Southampton Boat Show, UK

16-21/09 Porto Cervo 52 Super Series Sailing Week, Sardinia

19-24/09 Genoa Boat Show

28/09-6/10 Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, France

19-24/09 Sao Paulo Boat Show 25-28/09 Monaco Yacht Show

2-5/10 Oyster Regatta, Palma, Mallorca 4-13/10 Barcolana Regatta, Trieste 11-15/10 China Coast Race Week

9-13/10 Salon Nautico Internacional de Barcelona 16-19/10 Abu Dhabi International Boat Show 17-20/10 Biograd Boat Show, Croatia

18 OCT ESTELA SUPERYACHT POKER TOURNAMENT Casino de Mallorca 19-26/10 Rolex Middle Sea Race, Valetta

18-20/10 Cape Town International Boat Show 30/10-3/11 Fort Lauderdale Boat Show

15-23/11 Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta, Malaysia 23/11 RORC Transatlantic Race, Lanzarote - Grenada, WI

1-4/11 China (Xiamen) International Boat Show 6-9/11 CYS BVI Charter Yacht Show, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands 7-10/11 International Charter Expo, Croatia 19-21/11 METSTRADE, Amsterdam

7-8/12 CYCA Classic Yachts Regatta, Sydney 31/12 Sydney Hobart Yacht Race

4-9/12 Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting 7-15/12 Nautic Paris Boat Show 12-15/12 Kata Rocks Superyacht Rendezvous, Phuket

2020

REGATTA

15-23/01 Barbados Sailing Week 29/01-1/02 NZ Millennium Cup 2020, Bay of Islands

2020

BOAT SHOW/EVENT

10-12/01 Thailand Yacht Show 2020 18-27/01 Boot Düsseldorf Trade Show 22-26/01 New York Boat Show 6-10/02 Vancouver International Boat Show

14-16/02 The Round Martinique Regatta 24/02 RORC Caribbean 600 Race

7-12/02 Boot Holland, Leeuwarden 13-17/02 Miami Yacht Show 21/02-1/03 CNR Eurasia Boat Show, Istanbul

11-15/03 Superyacht Challenge, Antigua

6-15/03 Stockholm International Boat Show 7-11/03 Moscow Boat Show

19-22/03 The Bucket Regatta, St Barths

10-14/03 Dubai International Boat Show 11-13/03 Sea Japan 2020, Tokyo 11-15/03 HISWA 2020, Amsterdam

29-29/03 St Thomas International Regatta, US Virgin Islands

18-22/03 Qatar International Boat Show 26-29/03 Palm Beach International Boat Show

8/04 Rolex China Sea Race, Hong Kong Sep 2020 Perini Navi Cup, Porto Cervo 10-20/12 America’s Cup Christmas Race, Auckland Mar 2021 America's Cup, Auckland, NZ

316

nemi’s·ships

giuliano·di·benedetti

Home to the world’s first superyachts Professor Giuliano Di Benedetti, architect, historian, essayist and author, has spent a lifetime studying Nemi and its mysteries. Estela Yachting’s Francesco Gennai travelled to Nemi to meet him.

Born in the Castelli Romani in 1943, Giuliano Di Benedetti has authored numerous history books, but he has made studying Lake Nemi and its ships his life’s work. The preeminent expert on the topic, his research and resulting theories may border on science fiction, but de Benedetti’s only mission for decades has been to uncover the truth.

It is a cold morning at the end of January and from Genzano, Professor Di Benedetti and I walk along the road that runs along the lake of Nemi until we arrive at the ‘Museo delle Navi’. At the entrance, we find a majestic Roman cornice, evidence that this lush, green place once had a glorious past.

“In these places, the story took place for real”, the Professor says. “Julius Caesar, Cleopatra, Caligula, Dante, Leonardo da Vinci, Mussolini. All passed through here and history will unite them forever in these places.”

We enter the museum, but there are no ships. “Where are they?” I enquire.

Di Benedetti starts from the beginning.

Nemi ships Part of Caligula’s project was to make Nemi the religious centre of the Roman Empire. Romans worshipped

the gods and the greatest goddess of all was Diana, the huntress, twin sister of Apollo, also known as Queen Isis, protector of sailors and twin sister of Horus. Other aliases include Latonia, Lucina, Luna, Juno, Trivia and, in hell, Proserpina.

The greatest temple in the Roman empire was located in Nemi, devoted to worshipping Diana, whose legend and powers became conflated with other deities. She was also seen as goddess of the moon, of woodland, fertility and childbirth. From the temple in the volcanic hills of Nemi, Romans saw Diana’s image in the moon’s reflection on the lake below. Caligula wanted to take his worship one step further; he wanted to worship on the lake itself as the Egyptian Pharaos had.

The Nemi ships were born Caligula discovered the cult of Isis during his travels to Egypt with his father Germanicus, where he heard the legend of the sacred temple dedicated to Queen Isis. The mythical goddess of fertility and motherhood and was considered an ‘alter ego’ of the roman goddess Diana.

317

Credit: Wikipedia

Mark Antony’s daughter, Antonia, had taken in young Caligula after the death of his adopted mother, giving him an insight into the Egyptian way of family living.

Why Nemi?

Nemi, the town, sits nestled in a sacred grove above the eponymous lake and was considered a place of worship from the mid 500s BC, dedicated to goddess Diana Nemorensis, the huntress. Taking its name from the Latin ‘nemus’, or ‘sacred forest’ , the Nemorensis Lacus became known as ‘Diana’s Mirror’ since the lunar reflection on its waters could be seen from the temple above, on the north-eastern side. Diana —or in Greek mythology, Artemis, daughter of Zeus and sister to Apollo— was the guardian of conception and childbirth, goddess of the moon, and protector of slaves and of animals.

The temple drew emperors and important worshippers from Rome and beyond. Nemi was also a magnet for the sick, hoping for mystical healing powers to cure their ailments, as well as expectant mothers praying for a healthy birth. As a centre for paganism, writers, artists and poets would come here for inspiration over many centuries.

An annual three-day festival was held here each August, with the town and lake lit up by flame torches all around. Intended as a festival for captive and liberated slaves, and for animals, no hunting or persecution of either was permitted during these days. To participate in its processions was to “take refuge in the eternal world of the sacred, cool, shady, and nurturing”, Professor Carin Green, historian at the Department of Classics, University of Iowa, wrote in her study of Nemi’s rituals.

318

nemi’s·ships

giuliano·di·benedetti

Museo delle Navi, Nemi, Roma

Diving pioneers For centuries, fishermen on Nemi had reason to think that there was a large wreck lurking at the bottom, with nets routinely getting snagged on something big. Being a small lake, the notion that there could be anything like a large ship lying below was dismissed. But after years of local fishermen pulling up ancient, valuable artefacts, and selling them at market, a young cardinal and nephew of the pope decided to investigate in 1446.

That year, renowned architect Leon Battista Alberti was commissioned

by Cardinal Prospero Colonna to recover what is in the waters of Lake Nemi. But shortly after starting work, Alberti abandoned the effort, frustrated by the difficulty of the project and its lack of progress.

Another world-famous historical figure, Leonardo da Vinci, had developed a way of draining swamplands in the Agro Pontino region next to Rome and was summoned by the cardinal to assess the feasibility of using the same method to drain Lake

Nemi. Da Vinci submersed the lake in a specially-made diving bell, but established that the wreck was too large and that recovery wasn’t viable.

In 1535, Francesco De Marchi, an engineer of fortifications, explorer, mountaineer and writer, tried again.

He started his mission using top secret equipment, custom made by Mastro Guglielmo di Lorena, which would enable him to stay under water for hours. He dived with the first known iteration of a diving suit, consisting of a wooden frame with a diving bell that left hands and feet free.

De Marchi describes in detail his underwater experience in his work ‘La Barca di Trajano’, indicating the size and shape of the ship and its position. At 18m depth, it was possible to discern that a structure was down there, but aside from some planks, they had no luck in recovering anything substantial. However, the planks suggested a large structure was there and the quest to recover it continued.

As diving technology began to develop, more excursions followed and many important and valuable items were removed illegally. However, not until the 1920s would

319

it be known precisely the scale of what lay below.

Benito Mussolini ordered the lake be drained, with an ancient Roman cistern reactivated and the water level lowered by 20 metres.

Only now did it transpire that there was not one wreck, but two.

Mussolini at the dedication of the museum housing the Nemi ships, 1940.

The first superyachts Man’s earliest superyacht, the ‘prima nave’ measured a huge 73 metres in length, the same as an Airbus A380, with a beam of 24 metres. Its support vessel came in at 70 metres and would not be raised until 1932, because of the length of time it took to raise the first wreck.

The ship’s superstructure housed palaces, gardens and baths, adorned with bronze statues and marble floors, creating a floating paradise. Perhaps the most remarkable feature recovered were pristine lead plumbing pipes, embossed clearly with ‘Gaius Caesar Augustus Germanicus’, suggesting that the ships carried hot and cold running water. It also put beyond question by whom they had been commissioned.

Credit: Carlo Cestra Digital Productions

The design of this edition of ‘The Y’ was inspired by the original mosaics found on the Nemi Ships. White, green and red are symbols of the the goddess Diana, with white representing the moon, while green

signifies woodland, and red is the colour of the world of the dead.

Both ships had several hand operated bilge pumps, working like modern bucket dredges,

320

nemi’s·ships

giuliano·di·benedetti

the earliest examples of this type of pump. Piston pumps supplied hot and cold running water through lead pipes, using the hot water for baths and the cold water for fountains and drinking water. This early pump technology was not found again until the Middle Ages.

Having discovered this historically important invention, the Italian government decided to build a museum at Nemi, designed to house the two ships, the first time a dedicated museum had been erected. However, in WWII, the museum suffered an explosion and the two ships lost in an explosion that started a catastrophic fire.

Italian officials later filed an official report stating that retreating German forces had burned down the museum, though Professor Di Benedetti doubts this version of events. Investigating documents relating to the fire, it transpired that the intensity of the explosion and fire wouldn’t have

been sufficient to destroy the ships’ booms, which were not recovered. Di Benedetti’s theory is that someone had attempted to steal them in a burglary gone wrong.

A third ship?

Studies by Professor Di Benedetti revealed that a third ‘mega yacht’ is still lying in the lake. “The trinity of the goddess Diana (Isis) suggests that there were probably

three ships, while reports written by Francesco De Marchi and other divers that visited the wreck do not tie in with the two ships recovered in 1928.

These reports speak of a ship 150 meters long and 70 meters wide. Secondly, de Marchi noted that the wreck was positioned on another side of the lake, under Genzano, whereas the other two ships recovered under the town Nemi.

321

“Why didn’t they find it in 1928”, I ask. “There was a huge landslide in the 19th century that probably covered the ship, and we are now searching under the earth. Trust me, there is something huge there”, says Di Benedetti. “The biggest archeological discovery is a Roman ship 150 metres long!”, he adds.

Tip: If we have whetted your appetite to visit Nemi, consider combining your trip with a drive to Antonello Colonna’s Valle Fredda Resort in Labico, just half an hour inland. This ultra modern interpretation of a rural retreat, in concrete and glass, is a Michelinstarred restaurant, hotel and spa, making a stark contrast from the region’s Roman architecture.

Caligula re-made New studies and recent reviews are refuting the classic Caligula biography and a completely different person is emerging.

In her book, “Caligula”, the archeologist and historian, Maria Grazia Siliato debunks all the rumours and accusations that have come to characterise the “mad” Caligula.

Analysing facts and challenging paradigms, she arrives at an image of an unacknowledged genius, assassinated by senators’ conspiracy for their personal interests.

Caligula conceived a political project that would make all Mediterranean populaces

within the vast empire direct citizens of Rome, which only came to pass a century after his death.

The vision may have been his undoing, as direct taxation would flow to Rome, rather than to the many fiefdoms created by the ruling class that surrounded him.

Caligula was an intelligent man, by all accounts.

Having been exposed to Egyptian culture on his travels, his wonder fuelled

a thirst for knowledge that saw him devour his forefather Augustus’ vast library, leading some to think him mad from a young age.

322

estela·shipping

our·palma·team

our palma team

S

Francesco Gennai rancesco is Senior Yacht Support Consultant, based in the Palma office. He joined the team in 2015, having been involved in the yachting industry for over 10 years.

Francesco is Italian and speaks English, Spanish, Russian and Romanian. +34 638 816 803 francesco.gennai@estelashipping.net

Silvia Romero ilvia joined Estela in 2017, bringing with her experience in VIP and Concierge services, and administration management. She heads up yachting and shipping administration and supports our operations. Silvia speaks Spanish and fluent English. +34 687 569 782 silvia.benito@estelashipping.net

Kristy Hollingsworth risty is Senior Yacht Support Consultant, based in the Palma office, and manages our yachting operations. Kristy joined Estela in 2016 with a background in shipping logistics and managing corporate and VIP events in London and Mallorca, living here for more than 20 years.

In addition to native English, Kristy speaks fluent Spanish. +34 619 655 955 kristy.hollingsworth@estelashipping.net

Alvaro Torres lvaro joined the shipping team of Estela in 2018, and is responsible for the commercial department in our Palma office. Alvaro speaks Spanish and fluent English. +34 661 385 800 palma@estelashipping.net

F

K

A

James van Bregt ames worked with Estela as a freelance copywriter in 2018 and joined the team later that year.

He writes and edits ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ and manages our communications, as well as supporting yachting operations. James is Dutch/ English bilingual and, just about, gets by in Spanish. +34 696 598 403 james.vanbregt@estelashipping.net

J

our·barcelona·team

323

our barcelona team Romy Bourguignon omy joined the Barcelona office in 2018, managing our yachting operations. Romy is an experienced client relations manager, fluent in French and Spanish and also speaks English. +34 650 395 113 yachts.barcelona@estelashipping.net

R

A

Andrea Lusardi ndrea joined Estela in 2016, responsible for project development and administration, as well as supporting yachting operations. forwarding.bcn@estelashipping.net

J

Jorge Marin orge is part of Estela’s shipping team in Barcelona, managing logistics and forwarding. forwarding.bcn@estelashipping.net

C

Cristina Campos ristina, together with Jorge, works alongside Jorge Marin in logistics and forwarding. forwarding.bcn@estelashipping.net

Javier Aradillas avier is responsible for managing fuel supply and administration. forwarding.bcn@estelashipping.net

J

M

Miguel Arcos iguel is Managing Director of Estela Shipping in Palma and Barcelona. miguel.arcos@estelashipping.net Estela Shipping Barcelona SL C/ Buenaventura Muñoz 15 Entlo. 4 08018 Barcelona, Spain Estela Shipping Palma SA Av. Gabriel Roca 37 C 07014 Palma de Mallorca (Islas Baleares) Spain Estela Shipping Panamá SA Bd. Panamá Pacífico, Int'l Business Park Howard Building 3845, Tower D, Oficina 312, Panama City, Panama 01371 +507 832 0834 Puerto de Colón 2000 Colon Panama 76270 +507 661 4557 9 Incargo Shipping Services Brasil Rep. Ltda Av. Rio Branco, 45 Room 2303 Rio de Janeiro, Brasil 20090-003

324

I

estela·shipping

our·services

The Superyacht Agency for All Seasons

n the Balearics since 1850, Estela Shipping Superyacht Agency (‘Estela Yachting’) is an innovative provider of services for yachts visiting Mallorca, Barcelona and surrounding areas. We are part of Estela Shipping Group, a commercial shipping agent with offices throughout Spain, Portugal, Gibraltar and Latin America.

In addition to our bunkering, customs & immigration support and concierge services, we ensure that captains and crew are kept up to date with indispensable information.

In 2018, Estela opened its satellite office in Palma’s largest refit yard, STP, supporting yachts and crew all year round. Importantly, we are ‘consignatarios’ in Spain, authorised to complete visa and immigration formalities on behalf of vessels and crew.

We launched ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ in 2017, as an in-house production created specifically for superyacht owners, managers, charterers, captains, guests and crew, as part of our proactive communication approach.

We also host and co-host a number of social events for captains and crew each year, including our annual ‘Superyacht Poker Tournament’ and an ‘End of Season Crew Party’, to socialise and foster relationships with our clients and partners.

We publish a monthly email newsletter, in which we update readers with the latest developments and regulations of which they need to be aware. To receive the newsletter, drop us an email to palma@estelashipping.net Our services include: Visas & Immigration • Arrival and Departure Clearance • Cash to Master • Logistics & Forwarding • Fuel & Lube Oil • Berth Booking • Customs Formalities • Sanitary Inspection • Water Analysis • Recruitment • Flight Tickets • Accommodation • Transport & Logistics • Itineraries Planning • VIP Services • Rescue/First Aid Training On board (WSC).

Other company information: • Yacht Aid Global – Ambassadors.

• Representative office of Antigua Yacht Club Marina.

• Official dealer for Shell Marine Lube Oil.

our·services

Estela provides anything and everything Captains, owners and crew require For Owners & Guests Itinerary planning • Event tickets • Flights and transfers • Courier/parcel services • Car rental/taxis/chauffeur services • Tax-free shopping • Internet and telephony • Medical support

For Captains Arrival, departure, immigration • Visas, licences, passports • Cash to Master, banking • Fuel and lube oil • Charter authorisation • Logistics • Importation • Repairs, maintenance, refit, chandlery Yacht transportation and storage • Shipment and shrink wrapping

For Crew Provisioning and supplies • Laundry • Accommodation • Transfers • Crew activities • Recruitment and training • Medical support • Certification • Visas immigration • Uniforms

325

326

estela·shipping

editorial

Editor James van Bregt

editorial

graphic design Arantxa Gállego Editorial Director Francesco Gennai Photography Tito Bosch Contributing Editor Kristy Hollingsworth Administration Silvia Benito Commercial Support Enzo Cattaneo

A special thank to Giuliano Di Benedetti

with special thanks to: ALVARO TORRES CLARA GARCÍA DE LA VILLA XISCA PALMER RUTH DE LA CRUZ MARIANA PINZARI CONSORZIO SBCR CARLA NICKSON KONXI TOUS AMABLE ESPARZA JESUS ROCA

DAMIANO TOSI FERNANDO TOSI FRANCESCO BIANCINI NANI MAS FABRIZIO GOLDONI EUGENIO GIUSTINI GAVINO FRESU RITA BENEDETTI SERGIO SCALTABELLI GIACOMO TORTORICI LUIS AYALA NAVARRO VALERIO CIACCIA ROSALIA DI PERNA

ANDREA FARINACEO KAREN MARTENSEEN VITO TOUS OLGA MIRALLES PERIS PUEBLO ESPAÑOL FRONDA ARTE ANTIGÜEDADES XERREQUE REGIONE LAZIO DMO CASTELLI ROMANI KATE HARVEY MARIJA RASKOVIC

If your Company would like to collaborate with the 2020/21 edition We will be allocating publications for “The Y” Yachting Itineraries from May 1st 2019. Please contact estela@superyachts.agency for more information.

327 About Tito Bosch, Photographer

T

ito Bosch is a photographer from Mallorca, who enjoys discovering the beauty of things and capturing it.

His pictures always bring out the best of reality, expressing great passion. +34 670 932 293 www.titobosch.com titobosch@me.com titoboschphoto Advertising, fashion, social, events, portraits, family, romans and of course Yachts...

Regata Clasicos club de mar 2018

C

arlo Cestra Digital Productions is a Spanish company specialising in production, post production and technologies applied to cultural heritage, tourism, education, science and entertainment.

It has carried out 3D imaging, using animation and video to create reconstructions of the Nemi Ships for VR glasses.

PALMA DE MALLORCA

SUPERYACHT POKER TOURNAMENT

by Estela Shipping Superyacht Agency Owners, guests, captains and crew, all are welcome!

FRIDAY 18TH OCTOBER 2019 Casino de Mallorca - Porto Pi Centro Comercial h. 19:00 Info and booking: estela@superyachts.agency +34 971 722 532 EL JUEGO ABUSIVO PERJUDICA LA SALUD Y PUEDE PRODUCIR LUDOPATÍA. LA PRÁCTICA DEL JUEGO ESTÁ PROHIBIDA A LAS PERSONAS MENORES DE EDAD.

332

sublimotion

S

ibiza·balearics·spain

o much more than a restaurant, Sublimotion is a unique, multisensory gastronomic experience. Created by a culinary assembly that collectively boasts 10 Michelin stars, staged by an elite team combining illusion, illustration, set and costume design, music and audiovisual technology, Sublimotion teleports diners to another place and time. It is cinema, theatre, cabaret, video game and restaurant, all rolled into one.

You are seated in the Hard Rock Hotel in Ibiza, but by the time this ‘hybrid

reality’ performance is over, you may have been to the theatre in Paris, flown to Tokyo, had a picnic in New York’s Central Park, and been inside a video game where you eat the snacks you catch. Each of the tasting menu’s twenty courses comes with its own surprise.

First opened in 2014, Sublimotion is the brainchild of Paco Roncero, the double-starred Michelin chef from Madrid.

Front of house is managed by stars from stage, screen and music, such as the illusionist Jorge Blass, DJ and music

333

producer Wally López, while actress Iris Lezcano is your master of ceremonies.

In the kitchen, dishes are produced by a galaxy of culinary stars from around the world, each lending special dishes that are served in the virtual setting where they are best enjoyed.

Sublimotion 2019 premieres this June and will run until September.

No spoilers; if you want to know what Roncero and friends have up their sleeves this year, head to sublimotionibiza.com

334

melilla

authority·port·0f·melilla

C

oming to ‘The Y’ in 2020 as a feature destination is Melilla, one of the Spanish cities located on the northern coast of Morocco.

Looking out east over the Mediterranean is the portside Spanish enclave of Melilla, just 75km west of the Algerian border on the Alboran Sea. Offering a unique piece of ‘non-Iberia Spain’ outside of the Spanish peninsula, this historic destination is the perfect starting point to explore North African shores.

If you haven’t heard of this strategically placed

fortress city, it may be worth considering as a calling point as part of a North African cruise, or for transiting into and out of the Mediterranean.

As a ‘free port’, Melilla is outside the EU Customs Union and is VAT-exempt, providing favourable tax benefits in terms of VAT on charters and fuel.

As an up-and-coming weekend destination, Melilla is home to the second-largest collection of modernist architecture outside of Barcelona and there are an abundance of restaurants and eateries to cater for most tastes. A mild subtropical Mediter-

ranean climate typically means dry summers and rainy winters.

History Melilla’s far-reaching history as a ‘place of sovereignty’ under Spanish rule dates back to the 15th century.

Established initially by the Phoenicians, it went back and forth between Roman, Greek, Berber and Carthaginian dynasties,

DURATION

3 DAYS

7 DAYS

1 MONTH

3 MONTS

30M Yacht

88,26 €

205,94 €

882,61 €

2.647,82 €

335

to Almeria, Malaga and Granada (Motril), which is a regular line, and a number of sheltered and secure marinas offering all the services to be expected in any modern European port. The airport is located directly by the harbour.

Aside from fine facilities and a temperate climate, part of Melilla’s appeal for residents is reduced until it was finally taxation on imports of conquered by Spanish products and services monarchs, Ferdinand and to the tune of 50% of Isabella, in 1497. those in mainland Spain, Melilla was developed by corporate income tax on the Spanish into a fortress Melilla-owned businesses are also half. The local stronghold in the 16th currency is the euro. and 17th centuries, with sailors and merchants The favourable tax regularly passing through. climate keeps the local economy buoyant, while Melilla’s maritime a gradual improvement services have been kept in leisure facilities has fully up to date, with a boosted its popularity in ferry terminal handling three ferry sailings daily recent times. The local

language is Spanish, as well as other dialects native to Morocco.

We will return to Melilla in-depth next year, but if you would like more information about this destination in the meantime, we will be glad to assist you.

DOCK &

GO

sales - rental - service e-scooter e-bike

POWER & EFFICIENCY

C/ Missio 38 PALMA +34 871 511 850

RANGE UP TO 100 KM shop on line

EASY TO CHARGE

urbanapepalma.com

COLORS

C/ Juan XXII 12 P. POLLENSA +34 685 117 109

ANOTHERPOINTOFVIEW

@HEARTIBIZA · #FOLLOWYOURHEART BOOKINGS: reservas@heartibiza.com · +34 971 933 777 CLUB TICKETS: www.heartibiza.com

T h e

d i f f e r e n c e

i s n o

t o

a l w a y s

m a t t e r

b u i l d

w h i ch

t h e

s i z e .

The difference.

r i g h t

y a ch t

–