48 hours in Piraeus

48 hours in Piraeus

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E

verybody comes through Piraeus, the largest port in the eastern Mediterranean, to get to the Greek islands; however, Piraeus has evolved into something more: a modern city with a big history worth exploring.

Impressive neoclassical buildings, three natural moorages full of life and cafĂŠs next to the sea, the exceptional fresh fish in the gourmet restaurants of Tourkolimano, the impromptu bouzouki nights that take us back to the 1960s, the markets with the herbs. Piraeus concentrates the history of Greece and reflects the whole country: a mix of cultures and people, the joy and the sorrow, refugees and travelers, Olympiakos and Melina Merkouri in the movie Never on a Sunday.

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A nice promenade Walk or ride from the Zea Marina to Aristotelous square and feel as if you were on an island. At Kastela the 19th c. neoclassical mansions have become bistros, bars, cafĂŠs and restaurants. At the top you will find the chapel of Profitis Ilias and an incredible view. At Mikrolimano waiters come and go on the wooden decks over the water with grilled octopus, shellfish and red snapper, lobster tails and other delicacies. At the colorful Pasalimani, the countless cafĂŠs and bars can easily make you lose track of time.

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A little history The Marine Museum, the Municipal Art Gallery and the Archaeological Museum offer a full image of the history of the town, which peaked as a commercial center of the eastern Mediterranean and a naval dockyard for ancient Athens. However, the surprise is outside the Archaeological Museum: there is an ancient theatre from the Hellenistic period.

The timeless architectural dowry of the town is its 19th century symbols: the Municipal Theatre, built in 1884, the Naval Academy, designed by Ernst Ziller, the Hatzikyriakeio of 1897 and the Piraeus metro station with its huge domed ceiling, inaugurated in 1930.

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Delicacies

Go towards Tourkolimano, an excellent gastronomy destination, for the best fish on Attica. Dourabeis (29, Akti Dilaveri) is a classic solution for Athenians on Sundays, since 1932. The Cosa Nostra by the Sea trattoria in Mikrolimano, sibling of the well-known Italian restaurant in Monastiraki, decorated with vintage wallpaper and Fer Forge furniture, serves Italian pizza, tagliata, truffle filet. Papaioannou (42, Akti Koumoundourou) is yet another classic restaurant where fishermen take their catch straight to the deck. The chef is famous for his frying pan. Lefteris Lazarou, maybe the most famous chef in the country for his fish dishes, cooks at Varoulko Seaside (52, Akti Koumoundourou, varoulko.gr) with top suggestions like roast cuttlefish with caramelized lentils and orange sauce, shrimps with cherry tomatoes, feta, ouzo and basil or linguini with shrimps, mussels, Portobello mushrooms and sour cream. Margaro, a plainer but equally famous fish tavern next to the Naval Academy (126, Hatzikyriakou) with tables on the street, offers just 3 dishes: Greek salad, fried shrimps and mullet.

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Î?ightlife One of the liveliest scenes in the country, the Piraeus nightlife collects people from the whole of Attica.

The most historic bar in Piraeus, Amerikaniko (6, Akti Themistokleous), looks like a classic English pub and unpredictable festivities can take place here.

The new arrival is RockFellas in the Zea Marina, a classic rock bar (evident from the Rolling Stone magazine covers) with leather Chesterfield sofas, a wooden bar and a wall dedicated to Johnny Cash. For wine lovers but not only, the Corks & Forks wine pub (Akti Themistokleous & 1, Pargas) offers 90 labels of wine and many accompanying dishes. The more romantics can welcome the sunset with a nice cocktail at the Istioploikos Omilos (Sailing Club) at Akti Mikrolimanou (www.istioploikos.gr), which gives you the impression that you are on a boat.

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Tips ❱❱ Olympiakos is the greatest football team in the country. Watching a game in Karaiskaki stadium is an experience. ❱❱ Piraeus is famous for its market. The main commercial triangle is formed by Gounari, Antistaseos and Akti Posidonos streets. In the open-air Sunday market at the end of the trolley bus line, one can find old vinyl records, coins, books and a lot of nostalgia for an era that is disappearing.