Page 1

TECHNICAL MANUAL Your Complete Guide to the AFFINAGE Colour Portfolio


Colour: INFINITI® 8.44 with INFINITI® INTENSIVES 0.4 and INFINITI® b:RED SERIES ‘Copper’ lights

AFFINAGE® SALON PROFESSIONAL

AFFINAGE® Worldwide HQ Romsey, United Kingdom

02

AFFINAGE® USA Vista, California

Dott. Nicola Summer AFFINAGE® R&D Laboratory, Bologna, Italy


Our mission: to use knowledge, research, innovation & technology to create superior, safe, leading edge products that inspire passion, creativity & reassurance for the salon professional.

WORLD BEATING PRODUCTS, BORN IN BRITAIN In 1996 International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK conceived, created & launched the premium hair care brand AFFINAGE® Salon Professional. Originated as a line of permanent hair colour, the AFFINAGE® brand quickly expanded to include tone-on-tone and fashion colours, permanent waves, specialist highlighting systems, bleaching powders, shampoos, conditioners and styling products, formulated in-house at the AFFINAGE® Research & Development Laboratory in Italy. The team headed by Dott. Nicola Summer continue to break new ground in the

AFFINAGE® Worldwide HQ Romsey, United Kingdom

AFFINAGE® USA Vista, California, USA

AFFINAGE Salon Professional has pledged its support to the Hairdressing Council’s campaign for all UK hairdressers to become State Registered. The UK AFFINAGE Technical Team are all State Registered & AFFINAGE are proud to support this important campaign.

development of exciting, industry leading hair products. These unique, technology-driven products have been enthusiastically embraced by consumers & the hairdressing industry across the globe, making AFFINAGE® one of the fastest growing haircare brands in the world. This rapid growth is spearheaded by the twin aims of unrivalled product innovation & quality, supported by comprehensive training & education systems. Today, AFFINAGE® is sold in over 50 countries, with headquarters & training facilities in the UK & the USA.

AFFINAGE® Research & Development Laboratory, Bologna, Italy

ASP® Hong Kong Wanchai, Hong Kong

ASP® AUSTRALIA Sydney, NSW, AUS


INDEX

05

INFINITI® INTELLIGENT COLOUR SYSTEM - OVERVIEW

05

DATEM PLUS® TECHNOLOGY

06

INFINITI® PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

07

WHY USE INFINITI® PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR?

09

AFFINAGE® SKIN TEST METHOD

INFINITI® COLOUR STAR

10

INFINITI® NUMBER PROFILE

11

CLIENT PROFILING

COLOUR DIAGNOSIS

INFINITI® SHADE SELECTION: USING THE 70% RULE

12

WHITE HAIR COVERAGE

13

LIFTING POWER OF INFINITI®

AFFINAGE® CRÈME DEVELOPER

14

USING INFINITI® REGULAR SHADES (1-10)

MIXING REGULAR SHADES (1-10)

APPLICATION METHOD

15

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT

17

UNDERSTANDING COLOUR DEVELOPMENT

REMOVING THE COLOUR

18

REGULAR SHADES (1-10) SWATCH GUIDE

20

INFINITI® HIGH LIFT SERIES (12.)

21

MIXING

22

UNDERSTANDING COLOUR DEVELOPMENT

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT

254

REMOVING THE COLOUR

26

INFINITI® GOTHIC SERIES

27

MIXING

28

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT

29

REMOVING THE COLOUR

30

INFINITI® INTENSIVES SERIES

31

WHEN TO USE INFINITI® INTENSIVES SERIES

HOW TO USE INFINITI® INTENSIVES SERIES

34

04

INFINITI® b:RED® SERIES

35

SHADE SELECTION

DEVELOPER SELECTION

36

MIXING

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT

REMOVING THE COLOUR

37

b:RED® REFRESHER

38

INFINITI® SATIN®

42

HOTSHOTZ

43

COLOUR DYNAMICS®

44

SPECTRUM

46

BLONDE

47

ICE CREME

48

LITE

49

CONVERTER

50

QUICKPIG

51

ERASER

54

AFFINAGE COLOUR WHEEL


Captivating, expressive colour. Beautiful, healthier-looking hair.

INFINITI® Intelligent Colour System incorporates permanent hair colours, colour additives and colour highlighting for unlimited possibilities and radiant, multi-dimensional results. Advanced breakthrough formula with DATEM PLUS® Technology safely transports long-lasting colour pigments deep into every strand, to give amazing colour and flawless 100% grey coverage. The conditioning emulsion cream base with Shea Butter and Argan Oil adds protection, suppleness and incredible shine for beautiful, healthier looking hair.

REGULAR SHADES

HIGH LIFT SERIES

INTENSIVES SERIES

GOTHIC SERIES

b:RED SERIES

ULTRA LOW AMMONIA REGULAR COLOURING

EXTRA LIGHTENING

CONCENTRATED COLOUR ADDITIVES

NO-LIFT COLOURING DEPOSIT ONLY

COLOUR HIGHLIGHTING OFF-SCALP

92 SHADES

6 SHADES

7 SHADES

5 SHADES

5 SHADES

DATEM PLUS® TECHNOLOGY

INFINITI® INTELLIGENT COLOUR SYSTEM

DATEM PLUS® Technology ENHANCED COLOUR PERFORMANCE Original DATEM® made colouring kinder by encapsulating oxygen before releasing it inside the cortex. DATEM PLUS® revolutionises colour technology by capturing both oxygen and the colour molecule before safely transporting them deep into the hair shaft by gently separating the bonds between the keratin fibres. Once there, they are released, allowing the advanced colouring action to begin. This unique delivery system drastically reduces cuticle and scalp damage by controlling the action of free radicals*. DATEM PLUS® Technology begins to work before the colour is even applied. The colour actives are protected from oxidising too rapidly during the mix process, leaving significantly more of them available for penetration into the cortex. DATEM PLUS® Technology also suspends these colour actives in much smaller oil droplets in the advanced emulsion cream base and disperses them more evenly, before safely transporting them into the cortex in greater quantity. Once they’ve penetrated every fibre, the colour actives react, locking the colour deep inside the hair, rather than depositing on the surface as other permanent colours often do. This safer, deeper and more efficient colour deposit, combined with an anti-fade action, results in colour that is richer, more intense and incredibly long lasting.

DATEM PLUS® Technology makes INFINITI® the colour that cares. *Free radicals are atomic or molecular species with unpaired electrons, which can be created in many different ways, such as UV rays, pollution, intense sunlight, oxygen processes. They are very reactive and cause damage to the chemical compounds in our body (i.e. proteins, DNA). When working with oxidation-based products they cause damage to the cuticle and scalp. DATEM PLUS® Technology drastically reduces the creation of these free radicals, maintaining the strength and condition of the hair structure. DATEM PLUS® in contact with the hair Oxygen & colour molecules encapsulated by DATEM PLUS® DATEM PLUS® releasing oxygen & colour molecules Released colour molecule Free oxygen

05


REGULAR SHADES (1.-10.)

91 SHADES

06

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

ULTRA-LOW AMMONIA • 100% GREY COVERAGE


WHY USE INFINITI® PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR?

Discover the exceptional covering power of INFINITI®. DATEM PLUS® Technology protects the colour actives from oxidizing too rapidly during the mix process, leaving significantly more of them available for penetration into the cortex. DATEM PLUS® Technology also suspends these colour actives in much smaller oil droplets in the advanced emulsion cream base and disperses them more evenly, before safely transporting them into the cortex in greater quantity. Once they’ve penetrated every fibre, the colour actives react, locking the colour deep inside the hair. This unique action ensures perfect 100% grey coverage, whilst maintaining the strength and condition of the hair structure.

2. Naturally Derived INFINITI® formulations contain more than 90% naturally derived ingredients, obtained from sustainable and renewable sources.

3. Increased Condition and Shine

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

1. 100% Grey Coverage

Conditioning emulsion cream base with Shea Butter and Argan Oil adds protection, suppleness and incredible shine for beautiful, healthier-looking hair. The nourishing formulation also improves colour intensity and luminosity whilst delivering even longer-lasting results.

4. Unlimited Colour Possibilities Create bespoke colour for your clients by blending INFINITI® shades with INFINITI® Intensives Series. If you can imagine it, you can create it. See page 30 for details.

5. INFINITI® is Fast DATEM PLUS® Technology is unique in the way it allows the use of gentle heat to accelerate the colouring process to just 25 minutes with no damage to hair or scalp. The use of gentle heat is even recommended when using 9% (30vol) and 12% (40vol) AFFINAGE® Créme Developer with the High Lift Series (12). The use of heat will not compromise the result or lasting power of INFINITI®. Do not cover whilst processing.

6. Advanced Anti-Fade Technology One of the main causes of colour fade (or change) is exposure to air and light. Oxygen in the air creates creeping oxidation. Light contains ultra violet radiation, which can cause fading by ‘bleaching’ the colour out of the hair. INFINITI® combats colour fade in a number of ways. DATEM PLUS® Technology safely transports INFINITI® colour pigments deep into every fibre of the cortex without causing damage to the cuticle layer. The pH level also steadily reduces throughout the process to lock colour in. This safer, deeper and more efficient colour deposit combined with an anti-fade action produces super long-lasting colour results. INFINITI® also contains UV filters which reduce the effects of harmful rays and special buffers to control creeping oxidation.

7. Ultra Low Ammonia INFINITI® makes the impossible, possible. When mixed, INFINITI® contains as little as 0.2% ammonia, combining the higher performance and predictability of ammonia based permanent hair colour with the improved health and condition provided by such low levels of ammonia. Before INFINITI®, such ultra low levels were unheard of in ammonia based permanent hair colours. When mixed, the low ammonia levels of INFINITI® reduce further due to dilution with AFFINAGE® Créme Developer. See table on the next page:

07


PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

SHADES

AMMONIA LEVELS UNMIXED

AMMONIA LEVELS MIXED WITH CRÉME DEVELOPER

REGULAR SHADES (1 - 10)

0.5% - 2.3% (HIGHEST IN 10. SERIES)

0.2% - 0.9%

HIGH LIFT SERIES

3.2%

1.06%

GOTHIC SERIES

0.5% – 0.8%

0.2% – 0.3%

b:RED® SERIES

3.0%

1.5%

INTENSIVES SERIES

2.5%

1.0%

8. Reducing pH The unique, reducing pH of INFINITI® results in incredibly long-lasting hair colour. Buffering agents in the emulsion cream base counter the negative effects of strong alkalinity and control the pH level during processing.

9. Incredible Lift Action Permanent hair colour must have good lifting power in order for the colour result to be even: permanent hair colour first lifts some of the natural pigment before depositing new colour. Even a black shade must first lift the natural pigment before depositing. INFINITI® has the perfect balance. The incredible lift action of INFINITI® allows the use of much lower volumes of developer INFINITI® will lift higher with 6% (20vol) than most of its competitors using 9% (30vol), leaving the hair in the best possible condition. When darkening or covering white hair, or colouring on the same depth, 3% (10vol) should be used.

10. Reduced Risk of Sensitivity Ultra low ammonia content and advanced emulsion cream base mean INFINITI® requires less pigment. This greatly reduces the risk of sensitivity for the client.

11. INFINITI® Lasts 100ml tube with a 1:1½ mix means INFINITI® provides an incredible amount of working product.

12. Easy Mixing & Application INFINITI® mixes quickly and easily to a smooth cream consistency. When applied, INFINITI® provides excellent adhesion to the root area, minimising colour-slip.

!

Important: Always ensure you measure the correct quantities of INFINITI® and AFFINAGE® Créme Developer. For perfect results use the AFFINAGE® Electronic Balance.

13. Produced by Professionals for Professionals INFINITI® has been formulated to meet the colouring demands of the professional hairdresser and the high expectations of their clients. INFINITI® has been researched and developed to exacting standards by AFFINAGE® chemists, headed by Dott. Nicola Summer at the AFFINAGE® Laboratory in Bologna, Italy.

14. Health & Safety INFINITI® uses the safest possible ingredients to meet the strict Health and Safety guidelines of the hairdressing industry.

!

Important: For professional use only.

It is recommended to always wear protective gloves when using any chemical product. Colour products can occasionally cause an allergic reaction and a prior skin test is always advisable when permanent hair colour (or tone-on-tone colour) is to be used. Do not use to dye eyelashes or eyebrows. Rinse immediately if product comes into contact with the eyes. If irritation persists, seek medical advice.

08


AFFINAGE® SKIN TEST METHOD AFFINAGE® recommend a skin test before every colour application.

48hr

2

1

Once the client’s INFINITI® shade has been selected, mix a small amount of it with the correct AFFINAGE® Crème Developer. Apply to the client’s forearm or behind ear. Leave for 45 minutes, then rinse. Look for reaction after 48 hours. If any irritation or reaction occurs do not apply colour.

Other products to skin test

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

45min

Hotshotz, Colour Dynamics, Cool Blonde Illuminator - 25 minutes Cool Blonde Shampoo & Conditioner - 10 minutes These products to go directly onto skin, no mixing required.

INFINITI® COLOUR STAR Opposite colours will neutralise, or counteract each other. GREEN neutralises RED • VIOLET neutralises YELLOW • BLUE neutralises ORANGE

.6 RED

.5 M AH OG AN Y

ES

LT ON

CO O

WA RM

TO NE S

ASH ET OL VI

.4 CO PP ER

.2

GO

BL UE

.3

.7

LD . 1 G R E E N AS H

09


INFINITI速 NUMBER PROFILE The INFINITI速 numbering system follows the International Colour Code (I.C.C.) allowing the colourist to identify the depth of a shade. This is a universal standard.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

In the I.C.C. the number before the point indicates the depth - how light or dark a colour is. The number after the point indicates the primary tone that is added to the shade. The second number indicates the secondary tone which subdues or enhances the primary tone. The third number (where applicable) is the tertiary tone which again can enhance or subdue the other tones. The numbers before, and those after the point, therefore allow the colourist to fully describe the shade. EXAMPLE: When using the shade 6.036 - 6. is the depth, .0 is the primary tone, .3 is the secondary tone and .6 would be described as the tertiary tone.

INFINITI速 DEPTHS

INFINITI速 BASIC TONES

12 Very Light Extra blonde

0 Natural

10 Extra Light Blonde

1 Green Ash

9 Very Light Blonde

2 Violet Ash

8 Light Blonde

3 Gold

7 Medium Blonde

4 Copper

6 Dark Blonde

5 Mahogany

5 Light Brown

6 Red

4 Medium Brown

7 Blue

3 Dark Brown 2 Very Dark Brown 1 Black

Examples:

8.4 3 1 0.3 2 6.0 3 6

- Base 8. + Copper 4 + Gold 3 = Light Copper Golden Blonde - Base 10. + Gold 3 + Violet 2 = Extra Light Sandy Beige Blonde - Base 6. + Natural 0 + Gold 3 + Red 6 = Dark Natural Gold Red Blonde (Dark Chocolate)

NB: If the tone number is duplicated this indicates that the shade has increased intensity. For instance: -

6 . 6 6 = Intensified red tone 8 . 3 3 = Intensified gold tone

10


INFINITI® ILLUSTRATED INSTRUCTIONS KEY TARGET SHADE

WHITE HAIR

REMOVABLE SWATCHES

HEAT

Client Profiling • • • • •

Assess client’s skin tone & eye colour. Consider the client’s personality type and fashion style. Take into consideration the client’s lifestyle. Evaluate the client’s commitment level to colour: all-over colouring or partial colouring. Always perform a skin test at least 48 hours before applying colour to the scalp, see page 09.

Colour Diagnosis • • • • • • • •

Determine natural depth. You may use the removable swatches found in the INFINITI® Deluxe Shade Chart. Choose target shade. Assess percentage of white hair. Removable white hair indicator swatches may be used. Adjust target shade if required. (See INFINITI® SHADE SELECTION: USING THE 70% RULE below) Determine if the hair has had any previous chemical services. Examine hair condition and porosity. Evaluate the lifting power of the chosen shade. (See LIFTING POWER OF INFINITI®, page 13) Choose the correct developer strength. (See AFFINAGE® CRÈME DEVELOPER, see page 13) • Observe the correct processing time.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

CLIENT CONSULTATION: Client Profiling & Colour Diagnosis

INFINITI® SHADE SELECTION: Using the 70% Rule The swatches in the INFINITI® shade guide are based on colour results on 70% white hair.

Re-Touch Colouring It is important to note that the natural heat from the scalp will increase lift when the colour is applied. For this reason you should follow these shade selection rules: • When colouring on same depth or darkening - if less than 70% white hair is present, choose target shade. Use 3% (10vol) AFFINAGE® Créme Developer. • When colouring on same depth or darkening - if more than 70% white hair is present, choose one shade darker. Use 3% (10vol) AFFINAGE® Créme Developer. • When lightening - choose target shade and correct developer strength (See LIFTING POWER OF INFINITI®, page 13)

WHITE

-70%

+70%

WHITE

Virgin Hair Colouring To achieve the target shade, please follow the 70% rule below as the shade selection differs from ‘Re-Touch Colouring’ selection above. • Where there is 70% white hair - select the target shade. i.e. to achieve a 6.0 apply a 6.0 • Where there is more than 70% white hair - select one shade darker than the target shade. i.e. to achieve a 6.0 apply a 5.0 • Where there is less than 70% white hair - select one shade lighter than the target shade. i.e. to achieve a 6.0 apply a 7.0

+70% WHITE

WHITE

70%

-70%

WHITE

11


WHITE HAIR COVERAGE INFINITI® Regular Shades (1-10) will cover 100% white hair. This means that the fashion shades in INFINITI® do not require the addition of base colours to cover white hair.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

Extra Coverage for Resistant White Hair ( .01 ) Extra Coverage for Very Resistant White Hair ( .0X ) In the past, colourists have mixed 50% of natural tones with other shades in order to guarantee the coverage of white hair. This practice meant that if the target shade was a cool or ash shade, the addition of a Natural shade added warmth to the colour, thereby losing the desired cool ash shade. If the target shade was a warm shade i.e. Red or Copper, the addition of a Natural shade would decrease the intensity.

When using INFINITI® the following techniques may be applied for extra coverage on resistant white hair:

1) Using Natural Ash Shades (.01) These special shades are developed for covering resistant white hair. The .01 (Natural Ash) shades are a combination of Natural (.0) and Ash (.1) tones. When a high percentage of white or resistant white hair is present, this combination helps to increase the covering capability whilst retaining the tone of the chosen shade. The INFINITI® Natural Ash .01 tones can be added to any shade including Reds or Coppers in concentrations of up to 25% to guarantee coverage of white hair whilst retaining the desired tone, e.g. ¾ of target shade to ¼ of corresponding .01 shade. These .01 tones may be used alone for a Natural-Ash result if required.

2) Using .0X Shades for Very Resistant White Hair Including

Asian Hair Types - Usage as above for .01 shades

This range has been specially developed to deal with the most difficult grey coverage problems on ultra resistant and difficult to cover white hair. .0X shades combine all of the normal characteristics of regular Infiniti but with more intense pigments to achieve greater colour deposit.

!

These shades can also be used alone, but if used on white hair that is not extremely resistant a darker result will be achieved.

3) Intense Mix To increase coverage on coarse, very difficult to cover white hair, it is recommended that you mix INFINITI® in a ratio of 1 part colour to 1 part developer.

+

100g

1:1

100g

N.B. It may be necessary to select a lighter shade as this mix will give greater colour deposit and the result may therefore appear to be deeper.

EXAMPLE

4) Application to Pre-Washed, Towel Dried Hair. Cleansing prior to application will help the colour to penetrate coarse hair or resistant white hair. It is advisable to use a deep cleansing or purifying cleanser for this technique.

5) Increase the Development time by 5 minutes. 50min

12

45min

09


INFINITI® is formulated to enable the use of lower volumes of developer, maintaining the hair’s strength whilst still attaining perfect results. The maximum lifting power of all regular INFINITI® shades is up to 3 levels of lift with 6% developer. 3% (10vol) should be used for: covering white hair, increasing colour depth, darkening and colouring on the same level. Using 6% (20vol) AFFINAGE® Crème Developer, the lift power is as follows: -

SHADE DEPTHS

LEVELS OF LIFT

1, 2

½ (When using 1.0 Black or 2.0 Very Dark Brown this will give ½ a level of lift)

3, 4

1 (When using 3.0 Dark Brown or 4.0 Medium Brown this will give 1 level of lift)

5, 6

1-2 (When using 5.0 Light Brown or 6.0 Dark Blonde this will give 1 to 2 levels of lift)

7, 8, 9, 10

2-3 (When using 7.0 Medium Blonde to 10.0 Very Light Blonde will give 2 to 3 levels of lift)

These levels of lift apply to all shades in the equivalent depth, i.e. 5.0 and 5.35 will both give 1 to 2 levels of lift using 6% (20vol).

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

9

LIFTING POWER OF INFINITI®

When using 9% (30vol) AFFINAGE® Crème Developer, the lifting power is increased by a half to one level over that of 6% (20vol).

AFFINAGE® CRÈME DEVELOPER AFFINAGE® Crème Developer is a highly stable hydrogen peroxide solution available in 4 strengths: -

6% 20 VOL

3% 10 VOL

9% 30 VOL

12 % 40 VOL

Using AFFINAGE® Crème Developer ensures easy mixing, the correct colour result and long lasting colour. Using other peroxides or developers can result in weak colour results and colour fade. AFFINAGE® can only ensure results when AFFINAGE® Crème Developer is used. • For covering white hair, increasing colour depth and darkening: use 3% (10vol) pH2.95 • For up to 3 Levels of lift depending on INFINITI® shade used: use 6% (20vol) pH2.9 • When 1 extra level of lift is required: use 9% (30vol) pH2.85

! Important: Base your shade selection on the percentage of white hair present. The correct developer choice is based on the levels of lift required. When no lift is required always use 3% (10vol). See table below:

Natural Depth

% White Hair

Target Shade Required

Levels of Lift Required

VIRGIN HEAD APPLICATION

RE -TOUCH APPLICATION

Colour Selection

Colour Selection

Developer Strength

Developer Strength

5

0

7.4

2

8.4

6% (20vol)

7.4

3% (10vol)

5

70%

7.4

2

7.4

3% (10vol)

7.4

3% (10vol)

3

0

6.66

3

7.66

6% (20vol)

6.66

6% (20vol)

3

70%

6.66

3

6.66

6% (20vol)

6.66

3% (10vol)

3

0

7.4

4

8.4

9% (30vol)

7.4

6% (20vol)

7

0

7.24

0

8.24

3%(10vol)

7.24

3% (10vol)

7

80%

7.24

0

6.24

3%(10vol)

6.24

3% (10vol)

13


USING INFINITI® REGULAR SHADES (1. - 10.) Regular Shades (1. - 10.)

INFINITI® Crème

+

150g

Mix INFINITI® Regular Shades (1. - 10.) in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with AFFINAGE® Crème Developer to the ratio of 1 part colour to 1.5 (1½) parts developer. EXAMPLE: 100g/3.52oz of INFINITI® + 150g/5.29oz of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer.

100g

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

MIXING

EXAMPLE

Crème Developer

Total Mix Quantities

10g / 0.35oz

+

15g / 0.53oz

25g / 0.88oz

20g / 0.71oz

+

30g / 1.06oz

50g / 1.76oz

30g / 1.06oz

+

45g / 1.59oz

75g / 2.65oz

40g / 1.41oz

+

60g / 2.12oz

100g / 3.52oz

50g / 1.76oz

+

75g / 2.65oz

125g / 4.41oz

60g / 2.12oz

+

90g / 3.17oz

150g / 5.29oz

APPLICATION METHOD When using INFINITI® the correct quantity of product must be applied to the hair. Too little product will mean insufficient lift, low colour deposit or poor coverage resulting in fade. Applying the correct quantity ensures the product will penetrate the hair shaft, reach the keratin chains and produce the lifting and deposit action. Applications can be made on dry or pre-washed, towel dried hair. Some resistant white hair will accept colour better if the hair is pre-washed and towel dried. This method is also advisable when the hair is particularly resistant to colour.

Divide hair into 4 sections: from centre of forehead to nape of the neck and from ear to ear. Start from area where the percentage of white hair is highest. Apply product to thin sections taking care not to overlap previously coloured hair. When application is completed, the product must be clearly visible on the hair.

!

14

Important: Insufficient product and/or bad application are common causes of poor results.


APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT Virgin Hair: First Time Application when Darkening

1

1

2

5min

2

45min

1 Apply to mid-lengths and ends avoiding the root area and process for 5 minutes. Do not cover during processing. 2 Apply to the root area and process for a further 40 minutes. Total processing time: 45 minutes

With Gentle Heat

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

Without Heat

(40 - 42째C / 104 - 108째F)

1

1

5min

2

2 25min

1 Apply to mid-lengths and ends avoiding the root area and process for 5 minutes. 2 Apply to the root area and process for a further 20 minutes. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 25 minutes

Virgin Hair: First Time Application when Lightening This method of application should be used with any shade where the objective is to lighten the natural colour.

Without Heat 1

1

2

45min

2

20min

1 Apply to the mid-lengths and ends, leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched. Process for 20 minutes. 2 Apply the remaining product to the roots and process for a further 25 minutes. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time 45 minutes

15


With Gentle Heat

(40-42째C / 104-108째F)

1

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

1

5min

2

2 25min

1 Apply to the mid-lengths and ends, leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched. Process for 5 minutes. 2 Apply the remaining product to the roots and process for a further 20 minutes Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time 25 minutes

Regrowth: Re-Touch Application Without Heat 1

1

2

45min 40min

2

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid-lengths and ends.

1 Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 40 minutes. 2 Using the same mix, apply to the mid-lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes. This timing is flexible according to the amount of fade. A reduced or extended development time may be required. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 45 minutes

With Gentle Heat

(40-42째C / 104-108째F)

1

1

2

2

20min

25min Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid- lengths and ends.

1 Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 20 minutes. 2 Using the same mix, apply to the mid-lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes WITHOUT HEAT. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 25 minutes

! Important: Visual Processing for Re-Touch Application: To avoid over-processing and colour build-up on mid-lengths and ends, after the colour has been applied check at regular intervals by removing a small amount of colour. If the colour deposit is as desired the colour can be removed. If more colour is required, re-apply your remaining colour from the mix and develop further until the desired result is achieved. 16


UNDERSTANDING COLOUR DEVELOPMENT Regular Shades (1. - 10.)

During this time, two different actions are taking place: - Lift Action and Colour Deposit.

45min

LIFT ACTION

LIFT ACTION COLOUR DEPOSIT

COLOUR DEPOSIT

25min

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour result. If these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time for INFINITI速 colour is 45 minutes without heat or 25 minutes with gentle heat.

When not using heat the lift action is 30 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase in size. The full colour deposit happens in the final 15 minutes of development. During this period the colour fully develops and the molecules reach their optimum size. Total processing time: 45 minutes. When using gentle heat the lift action is 15 minutes and the colour deposit is the final 10 minutes. Total processing time: 25 minutes.

REMOVING THE COLOUR

1

2

Regular Shades (1. - 10.)

3

4

1 At the end of the processing time, without adding water, emulsify the colour around the hairline to remove any stains. 2 Add a small amount of water and continue to emulsify the remaining colour. 3 Rinse until the water runs clear. 4 Cleanse and condition with Affinage速 ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

17


ESSENTIALLY NATURAL .0

.00

Natural

Warm Natural

2.0X - 9.0X

EXTRA COVERAGE ON VERY RESISTANT WHITE HAIR

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

10.

EXTRA COVERAGE ON RESISTANT WHITE HAIR

10.2

10.32

10.3

PEAR BLONDE

BEIGE BLONDE

GOLDEN BLONDE

9.00

9.01

9.1

9.2

9.23

VERY LIGHT BLONDE

LIGHT ASH BLONDE

BLONDE

BLONDE

BEIGE BLONDE

8.00

8.01

8.1 MIX

8.2

8.32

LIGHT BLONDE

BLONDE

½ 7.1

BLONDE

BLONDE

7.00

7.01

7.1

7.23

7.24 MIX

MEDIUM BLONDE

ASH BLONDE

BLONDE

BEIGE BLONDE

½ 6.24

6.00

6.01

6.1 MIX

6.23 MIX

6.24

DARK BLONDE

BLONDE

¼ INTENSIVES 0.1

5.00 MIX

5.01

5.22 MIX

5.23

5.24 MIX

½ 4.00

BROWN

½ 4.22

BROWN

½ 4.24

4.00

4.01

NATURAL MEDIUM

DAMSON &

MEDIUM BROWN

ASH BROWN

BLACKBERRY

12.0 HIGH LIFT 9.0

8.0

7.0

6.0

6.0X

5.0

5.0X

4.0

MEDIUM BROWN

4.0X

3.0

DARK BROWN

3.0X

2.0

2.0X

1.0

BLACK

EXTRA NATURAL

EXTRA NATURAL

EXTRA NATURAL

EXTRA NATURAL

½ 6.00

EXTRA NATURAL

NATURAL VERY

NATURAL LIGHT ASH

NATURAL MEDIUM

NATURAL DARK ASH

NATURAL LIGHT ASH

VERY LIGHT ASH

½ 9.1

VERY LIGHT VIOLET

LIGHT VIOLET

MEDIUM ASH

¾ 6.0

EXTRA LIGHT SANDY

VERY LIGHT PEARL

LIGHT SANDY BEIGE

MEDIUM PEARL

6.22

PLUM WINE

½ 7.23

EXTRA LIGHT

9.24

SOFTEST TAUPE

9.035

CAFFE LATTE

½ 6.22

4.22

½ 4.22 ½ 2.2

2.2

DEEP VIOLET BROWN

LIGHT PEARL BEIGE

9.3

VERY LIGHT GOLDEN BLONDE

8.24

LIGHTEST FAWN

8.035

CAPPUCCINO

8.3

LIGHT GOLDEN BLONDE

½ 8.24

ROEBUCK

7.036

MILK CHOCOLATE

7.3

MEDIUM GOLDEN BLONDE

6.036

DARK CHOCOLATE

½ 5.23

3.22 MIX

VERY DARK BROWN

18

Gold

.01

EXTRA LIGHT

LIGHT BROWN

1.

.3

Coffee

ASH BLONDE

DARK BLONDE

2.

.035 .036

Taupe

EXTRA LIGHT

7.0X

3.

.24

Beige

10.1

MEDIUM BLONDE

4.

.23 .32

Violet Ash

ASH BLONDE

8.0X

5.

.2 .22

Green Ash

EXTRA LIGHT COOL

LIGHT BLONDE

6.

.1

Natural Ash

10.21

9.0X

7.

.01 .21

NATURAL BLONDE

ARCTIC LIGHT VERY LIGHT BLONDE BLONDE

8.

SUN-KISSED & SOPHISTICATED

10.0

EXTRA LIGHT

9.

COOL & SULTRY

6.3

DARK GOLDEN BLONDE

½ 6.24

4.24

RICH MINK

5.036 COFFEE

5.3

LIGHT GOLDEN BROWN

4.036

CAFÉ NOIR

4.3 MIX ½ 5.3

½ 4.00


WARM & RADIANT .33 .03 .336 Intense Gold Spice | Natural Gold

.43 Gold Copper

.35

.4 .44

Gold Mahogany Copper | Intense Copper

Copper Red

.5 .53 Mahogany

9.145

GOLDEN WHEAT

.66 Intense Red

.62 .65 .652

.61 7.727

.7 .76

Red Mahogany Cool Red Blue Violet

Blue | Purple

7.66

7.62

7.76

6.66

6.652

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

9.03

.46 .465

VIBRANT & EXPRESSIVE

9.026

APRICOT BLUSH

STRAWBERRY BLONDE

8.33

8.43

8.35

8.44

GOLDEN BLONDE

GOLDEN BLONDE

MAHOGANY BLONDE

APPLE

7.336

7.43

7.35

7.4

GOLDEN BLONDE

MAHOGANY BLONDE

BLONDE

6.33

6.35

6.4

GOLDEN BLONDE

MAHOGANY BLONDE

BLONDE

5.35

5.44

LIGHT INTENSE

ALL SPICE

DARK INTENSE

LIGHT COPPER

MEDIUM COPPER

LIGHT GOLDEN

MEDIUM GOLDEN

DARK GOLDEN

LIGHT GOLDEN MAHOGANY BROWN

WARM TOFFEE

MEDIUM COPPER

DARK COPPER

CHOCOLATE ORANGE

8.465 PAPRIKA

7.51

AUTUMN RUST

7.5

MEDIUM MAHOGANY

PIMENTO

CHERRY & ROSEHIP

LOGANBERRY

BLONDE

6.46

DARK RUBY RED

6.5 MIX ½ 7.5

FIRE RED

RED PEPPER

6.61

COOL RUBY

½ 5.5

5.46

RUBY RED

5.5

6.76 MIX ½ 7.76 ½ 5.76

5.66

5.62

4.53

4.66

4.65

GOLDEN BROWN

RED

½ 3.76

3.66

3.76

LIGHT MAHOGANY

CLARET

RED BERRY

5.727

5.76

4.61

4.76 MIX

VELVET ROSE

CRANBERRY

BROWN

MEDIUM MAHOGANY

3.352

INTENSE CHERRY

INTENSE VERONESE

BURGUNDY

BEAUJOLAIS

COOL CRIMSON

½ 5.76

JUNIPER BERRY

1.7

BLUE BLACK

The colours indicated in this shade guide are a representation only.

19


EXTRA LIGHTENING

6 SHADES

20

HIGH LIFT SERIES

HIGH LIFT SERIES

UP TO 4-5 LEVELS OF PURE LIGHTENING


INFINITI® HIGH LIFT SERIES (12.)

Extra Lightening Shades

12.0 HIGH LIFT ARCTIC LIGHT BLONDE

12.0S HIGH LIFT BOOSTER

12.771 COOL ARCTIC BREEZE

12.1 HIGH LIFT ARCTIC LIGHT ASH BLONDE

12.2 HIGH LIFT ARCTIC PEARL BLONDE

HIGH LIFT SERIES

INFINITI® High Lift Series (12) offers up to 4-5 levels of pure lightening. Advanced breakthrough formula with DATEM PLUS® Technology, Shea Butter and Argan Oil provides incredible lifting power and ensures beautiful, even results with amazing shine for radiant, healthier-looking hair. Choose from Essentially Natural, Cool & Sultry & Sun-kissed & Sophisticated shades:

12.23 HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BEIGE BLONDE

The colours indicated in this shade guide are a representation only.

If one extra level of lift is required, 12.0s High Lift Booster may be added to any other INFINITI® High Lift shade to enhance lifting performance.

!

Important: For optimum results when using INFINITI® High Lift Series, use on a natural base 6.0 or lighter. When using on very dark bases the level of lift is reduced.

MIXING

High Lift Series (12.)

1 part INFINITI® High Lift shade to 2 parts AFFINAGE® Crème Developer - 9% (30vol) or 12% (40vol) Mix INFINITI® High Lift shade in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with AFFINAGE® Crème Developer 9% (30vol) or 12% (40vol) to the ratio of 1 part colour to 2 parts developer. EXAMPLE: 100g/3.52oz of INFINITI® High Lift Series + 200g/7.05oz of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer.

+3%

6% 20 VOL 10 VOL EXAMPLE 200g

1:2

100g

For up to 5 levels of lift with INFINITI® High Lift Series use 12% (40vol), pH2.8

9% 30 VOL

12 % 40 VOL

INFINITI® 12 Series High Lift Arctic Blondes

Crème Developer 9% / 12%

Total Mix Quantities

100g / 3.52oz +

200g / 7.05oz

300g / 10.58oz

75g / 2.65oz

+

150g / 5.29oz

225g / 7.94oz

50g / 1.76oz

+

100g / 3.52oz

150g / 5.29oz

25g / 0.88oz

+

50g / 1.76oz

75g / 2.65oz

21


UNDERSTANDING COLOUR DEVELOPMENT High Lift Series (12.) HIGH LIFT SERIES

When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour result. If these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time for INFINITI速 High Lift Series is 55 to 60 minutes with no heat (60 minutes for maximum tone deposit) or 30 minutes with gentle heat. During this time two different actions are taking place: Lift Action and Colour Deposit.

60min COLOUR DEPOSIT

45min

LIFT ACTION COLOUR DEPOSIT

LIFT ACTION

30min 25min When not using heat the lift action is 45 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase in size. The colour deposit happens in the final 10 - 15 minutes. During this period the colour fully develops and the molecules reach their optimum size.

Total processing time: 55 - 60 minutes. When using gentle heat the lift action is 25 minutes and the colour deposit is the final 5 minutes. Total processing time: 30 minutes.

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT Virgin Hair (up to 25cm): First Time Application Without Heat 55min

1

1

2

2

20min

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair.

1 Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx. 3 - 4cm of the root hair untouched. Wait until the desired lift is reached (approx. 20 minutes). 2 Apply colour to the roots. Process until the desired lift is reached (35 - 40 minutes) Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 55 - 60 minutes

22


Virgin Hair (up to 25cm): First Time Application With Gentle Heat

(40-42째C / 104-108째F)

1

10min

2

2 30min

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair.

1 Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx. 3 - 4cm of the root hair untouched. Process for 10 minutes. 2 Apply colour to the roots. Process for 20 minutes.

HIGH LIFT SERIES

1

Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 30 minutes

Virgin Hair

(longer than 25cm):

First Time Application

Without Heat 60min

1

1 1 2 3

2

3

3 40min

2

Apply colour first to the ends (5 - 6cm). Process for 20 minutes. Re-mix fresh colour and then apply to the mid-lengths for 20 minutes. Finally, re-mix fresh colour and apply to the root area until the desired shade is reached (approx. 20 minutes).

Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 60 minutes

Virgin Hair

(longer than 25cm):

With Gentle Heat

First Time Application

(40-42째C / 104-108째F) 5min

12

1

2

3

10min

3

30min

1 2 3

Apply colour first to the ends (5 - 6cm). Process for 5 minutes. Re-mix fresh colour and then apply to the mid-lengths for 5 minutes. Finally, Re-mix fresh colour and apply to the root area until the desired shade is reached (approx. 20 minutes).

Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 30 minutes

23


Regrowth: Re-Touch Application Without Heat HIGH LIFT SERIES

55min

Apply colour to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the mid-lengths or ends. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 55 - 60 minutes

Regrowth: Re-Touch Application With Gentle Heat

(40-42°C / 104-108°F)

30min Apply colour to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the mid-lengths or ends. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 30 minutes

Application to White Hair: Where more than 25% white hair is present: 12.771, 12.1, 12.23 or 12.2 should be mixed with 12.0 or 12.0s in equal amounts to prevent unwanted ash tones. EXAMPLE: 50g/1.76oz of 12.1 + 50g/ 1.76oz of 12.0s + 200g/7.05oz of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer.

!

Important: When mixing colour using a tint brush, please use a clean brush for application to the hair. When using INFINITI® High Lift Series take very fine sections of hair and apply twice as much product as usual.

High Lift Booster 12.0s 12.0s May be used to INCREASE the lift of INFINITI® High Lift Series by up to 1 shade, by adding 25% of 12.0s, without affecting the tonal value. EXAMPLE: 75g/2.65oz 12.1 + 25g/0.88oz 12.0s + 200g/7.05oz AFFINAGE® Crème Developer. 12.0s Will give 1 - 2 levels of lift when used on its own with AFFINAGE® Crème Developer 9% (30vol) 1:2 mix. EXAMPLE: 25g/0.88oz of 12.0s + 50g/1.76oz of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer 9% (30vol).

24


REMOVING THE COLOUR

2

3

1 At the end of the processing time add a small amount of water and emulsify the colour. 2 Rinse until the water runs clear. 3 Cleanse and condition with Affinage速 ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

HIGH LIFT SERIES

1

High Lift Series (12.)

25


NO-LIFT ACTION

5 SHADES

26

GOTHIC SERIES

GOTHIC SERIES

DEPOSIT ONLY COLOURING


INFINITI® GOTHIC SERIES

No Lift Action, Colour Deposit Only

1.117 GOTHIC BLACK

4.117 ANTHRACITE

6.117 ONYX

9.117 SILVER

GOTHIC SERIES

INFINITI® Gothic Series incorporates 1 black and 4 grey deposit-only permanent shades. Advanced breakthrough formula with DATEM PLUS® Technology, Shea Butter and Argan Oil ensures beautiful, even results with incredible shine for healthier-looking hair.

10.117 PLATINUM

The colours indicated in this shade guide are a representation only.

The grey shades are suitable for use on natural white or grey hair and on hair pre-lightened to very light blonde. They may also be mixed with INFINITI® Naturals (.0) to create cool, natural colours. Gothic Black 1.117 may be used on any hair colour.

!

Important: The grey shades are not recommended for use on yellow bases.

MIXING

Gothic Series

Mix INFINITI® Gothic Series in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with AFFINAGE® Crème Developer to the ratio of 1 part colour to 1.5 (1½) parts developer. EXAMPLE 100g/3.52oz of INFINITI® Gothic Shade + 150g/5.29oz of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer.

INFINITI® Crème

100ml

+

150g

100g

INFINITI® Gothic Series should be used with AFFINAGE® Crème Developer 3% (10vol). AFFINAGE® Converter may also be used

EXAMPLE

3% 10 VOL

6% 20 VOL

Crème Developer 3%

Total Mix Quantities

10g / 0.35oz

+

15g / 0.53oz

25g / 0.88oz

20g / 0.71oz

+

30g / 1.06oz

50g / 1.76oz

30g / 1.06oz

+

45g / 1.59oz

75g / 2.65oz

40g / 1.41oz

+

60g / 2.12oz

100g / 3.52oz

50g / 1.76oz

+

75g / 2.65oz

125g / 4.41oz

60g / 2.12oz

+

90g / 3.17oz

150g / 5.29oz

9% 30 VOL

12 40

27


APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT Virgin Hair: First Time Application when Colouring on Same Depth & Darkening GOTHIC SERIES

Without Heat

1

1 1 2

2

5min

2

45min

Apply to mid-lengths and ends avoiding the root area and process for 5 minutes. Apply to the root area and process for a further 40 minutes.

Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 45 minutes

With Gentle Heat

1

(40 - 42째C / 104 - 108째F)

1

5min

2

2 25min

1 2

Apply to mid-lengths and ends avoiding the root area and process for 5 minutes. Apply to the root area and process for a further 20 minutes.

Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 25 minutes

Regrowth: Re-Touch Application & Development Without Heat

1

2

45min 40min

1 2

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid-lengths and ends.

1 2

Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 40 minutes.

Using the same mix, apply to the mid-lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes. This timing is flexible according to the amount of fade. A reduced or extended development time may be required. Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 45 minutes

With Gentle Heat

1

(40 - 42째C / 104 - 108째F)

1

2

2

20min

25min Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid- lengths and ends.

1 2

Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 20 minutes. Using the same mix, apply to the mid-lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes WITHOUT HEAT.

Do not cover during processing.

Total processing time: 25 minutes

28


!

Important: it is not unusual for INFINITI® Gothic grey shades (4.117, 6.117, 9.117, 10.117) to change colour during the development process. This is normal for these shades. Always process for the full development time.

1

2

Gothic Series

3

4

GOTHIC SERIES

REMOVING THE COLOUR

1 At the end of the processing time, without adding water, emulsify the colour around the hairline to remove any stains. 2 Add a small amount of water and continue to emulsify the remaining colour. 3 Rinse until the water runs clear. 4 Cleanse and condition with Affinage® ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

GOTHIC SERIES - HINTS & TIPS Granny Grey Pre-lighten hair to a clean clear blonde (no yellow tones). Use Affinage Ice Crème or Affinage Lite Bleach with 3% or 6% Affinage Crème Developer. Always use lower volume developers when lifting as you will achieve a cleaner blonde than with higher strength developers. If you struggle to achieve a clean blonde you can tone with 1 part 10.21 to 2 parts Converter (visual development required) or Cool Blonde Illuminater to neutralise unwanted yellow tones. You can then apply your chosen Gothic Shade ( 4.117 to 10.117) with 3% Affinage Crème Developer and develop for full development time. NB. Gothic goes on a journey through the cool side of the colour star (Ie. blue, green,violet) before it reaches its final perfect tonal result of silver/grey. Be brave and always leave for full development time. No pre bleaching required when using Gothic Black. The addition of Kitoko Protein Additive into the Gothic Shades will equalise the porosity, strengthen and give you a longer lasting result. Gothics can also be mixed with Converter to achieve a slightly softer result on a 1 part Gothic shade to 2 part Converter mix ratio.

Salt & Pepper To achieve ‘salt and pepper’ low lights, use 4.117 and/or 6.117 on natural white hair. Traditionally the method of achieving this result was by mixing natural shades with added ash tones. This often resulted in the colour result being too warm after several weeks in the hair. INFINITI® Gothic Series offers the ideal solution. AFFINAGE® Converter is ideal for use with the INFINITI® Gothic Series but may result in a slightly less strong colour result. Mix: 1 part INFINITI® Gothic shade to 2 parts AFFINAGE® Converter. The INFINITI® Gothic Series is also intermixable with INFINITI® Natural Shades (.0) to create very cold, “flatter” natural colours. These are often an ideal choice for male clients.

29


7 SHADES

30

INTENSIVES SERIES CONCENTRATED COLOUR ADDITIVES

INTENSIVES SERIES

7 PURE PIGMENTS FOR BESPOKE COLOUR CREATION


INFINITI® INTENSIVES SERIES

Concentrated Colour Additives

When an INFINITI® Intensives shade is mixed with a permanent or tone-on-tone colour that uses developer, it becomes part of the host colour. This means that the added Intensives colour is as permanent as the host colour.

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.6

0.76

0.7

Green Ash

Violet Ash

Gold

Copper

Red

Purple

Blue Ash

INTENSIVES SERIES

Custom blend the perfect colour for your clients. The INFINITI® Intensives Series incorporates 7 pure concentrated pigments which can be used to intensify or subdue any permanent or tone-on-tone hair colour, giving you the power to create one-off, bespoke colours. If you can imagine it, you can create it.

The colours indicated in this shade guide are a representation only.

WHEN TO USE INFINITI® INTENSIVES SERIES Intensives are used when the colourist wants to intensify the tone of a colour or subdue unwanted tones.

0.3

0.4

0.6

0.76

WARM Intensives add extra colour intensity and vibrancy to any shade 0.1

0.2

0.7

COOL Intensives subdue unwanted warm tones or for extra cool colour results

HOW TO USE INFINITI® INTENSIVES SERIES Intensives can be used in two different ways: -

The ADD Technique Use when same depth colouring, darkening or when a more intense tone is required.

EXAMPLE: Mix 1 part INFINITI® 7.4 (30g/1.06oz) with 1½ parts of your chosen AFFINAGE® Crème Developer (45g/1.59oz), then ADD 30g/1.06oz Intensives 0.4 COPPER

+

30g

45g

30g

1:1½

31


The INCLUDE Technique Use when you want to lighten or brighten the tone.

with 1½ parts of your chosen AFFINAGE® Crème Developer (90g/3.17oz).

: 1½

90g

30g

1

30g

INTENSIVES SERIES

EXAMPLE: Mix 1 part colour (INCLUDE 30g/1.06oz Intensives 0.4 COPPER with 30g/1.06oz INFINITI® 7.4)

! Important: When using COOL Intensives colours with blonde shades, add in small quantities up to 10% until desired result is achieved.

Using WARM Intensives 0.3

0.4

0.6

0.76

Intensives tones 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, and 0.76 can be ADDED or INCLUDED in large quantities, if desired, to give bright or vibrant tones. They can also be used on their own mixed with 3%(10vol) - 1 part Intensives to 1.5 (1½) parts AFFINAGE® Crème Developer or AFFINAGE® Converter - on previously coloured hair to introduce warm tonal effects.

Using COOL Intensives 0.1

0.2

0.7

Intensives Ash tones 0.1, 0.2, 0.7 are designed to help eliminate warm tones (red, copper and gold) when lightening. On some occasions the colourist may wish to use INFINITI® High Lift Series (12.) or INFINITI® 10. shades on dark bases to achieve light beige or cool blondes. When the colourist uses a cool INFINITI® shade (.1 Green Ash, .2 Violet Ash) with higher volumes of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer (9% (30vol) and 12% (40vol)), the ashening effect in the colour is not always strong enough to subdue the warmth generated from the natural colour when lifting occurs. Intensives provide the solution to this problem. Intensives 0.1, when added to a .1 colour, e.g. 12.1, increase the ashening effect dramatically. This will enable the 12.1 to subdue more of the warm tones generated during lifting. Similarly by adding 0.2 Violet to 12.2 or 10.2 the cooling of the gold tone is increased. 0.7 Blue Ash can also be used for cooling a High Lift shade. Care should be exercised when using COOL Intensives tones with blonde shades, e.g. INFINITI® High Lift Series (12.) or INFINITI® 10. shades. A maximum of 10% Intensives in the mix is recommended. Always use the INCLUDE method. EXAMPLE: 100g/3.52oz of INFINITI® 10. shade + 10g/0.35oz Intensives 0.1, 0.2, or 0.7 + 165g/5.82oz of AFFINAGE® Crème Developer. EXAMPLE: 100g/3.52oz INFINITI® High Lift 12. shade + 10g/0.35oz Intensives 0.1, 0.2, or 0.7 + 220g/7.76oz AFFINAGE® Crème Developer 9% (30vol) or 12% (40vol).

32


0.7 Blue Ash Technique When lifting from natural base 3, 4 or 5 to levels 6, 7 or 8, naturally warm or coppery tones are generated. These are not always required, therefore by adding 0.7 Intensives Blue Ash you can eliminate unwanted warmth

Issue: Colour result has unwanted warmth in base 7.

90g

10g

50g

Solution: INCLUDE 20% Intensives 0.7 Blue Ash into the colour mixture.

INTENSIVES SERIES

Mix used: Natural base 5.0, 0% white hair. Target colour - 7.0. Colour used - 8.1. Developer 6% (20vol)

33


b : R E D速 S E R I E S COLOUR HIGHLIGHTING

b:RED速 SERIES

5 SHADES

34

INTENSE RED HIGHLIGHTS IN JUST 15 MINUTES WITHOUT PRE-LIGHTENING


INFINITI® b:RED® SERIES

Off-Scalp Colour Highlighting

RED

RED COPPER

COPPER

RED VIOLET

b:RED® SERIES

INFINITI® b:RED® Series is an off-scalp colour highlighting system that delivers intense red highlights on natural and coloured hair in just 15 minutes without pre-lightening. Advanced breakthrough formula with DATEM PLUS® Technology, Shea Butter and Argan Oil provides incredible lifting power and ensures beautiful, even results with amazing shine for radiant, healthier-looking hair.

MAGENTA

The colours indicated in this shade guide are a representation only.

INFINITI® b:RED® Series comprises 5 vibrant shades, designed for use with foil, cap or meche techniques:

3% 10 VOL

SHADE SELECTION NATURAL DEPTH

b:RED® SHADE

6 or darker

Red, Red Violet, Red Copper, Copper

6 or lighter

Magenta

6% 3% VOL 10andVOLshould not be used on20 blonde or white hair as this may give ! INFINITI b:RED Series is a very intense range of colours 3 % unwanted results. Magenta is the exception, which must only be used on base 6 or lighter. If this product is used on very dark, previously colour treated 10hair, VOLthe colour result will be less vibrant than on natural hair. ®

®

DEVELOPER 3SELECTION % 6% 10MAGENTA VOL ALL SHADES EXCEPT 3% 10 VOL

3% 10 VOL

Base 6&5

MAGENTA

6% 20 VOL 3% 10 VOL

9% 30 VOL 6% MIXING 20 VOL

9% 30 VOL 9% 30 VOL

Base 5&4

Base 6, 7 & 8

20 VOL 6% 20 VOL 9% 30 VOL 9% 30 VOL 12 % 40 VOL 12 % 40 VOL

12 % 40 VOL 12 % 40 VOL

Base 1 to 4

12 % 40 VOL

Maximum lightening on hair that is difficult to lighten = 12% (40vol)

Base 6, 7 & 8

1:1

+

EXAMPLE

12 40 VOL 9% 30 VOL

100g

Mix INFINITI® b:RED® Series in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with AFFINAGE® Crème Developer to the ratio of 1 part colour to 1 part % (ALL shades). See table for examples: developer

100g

Important: Please remember high %/volume strengths of developer will give more lift, but may reduce the intensity of the colour.

100ml

!

Base 9 & 10

6% 20 VOL 6% 20 VOL

9% 30 VOL

35


INFINITI® Crème 10g / 0.35oz

Crème Developer 9% / 12%

Total Mix Quantities

10g / 0.35oz

20g / 0.71oz

+

b:RED® SERIES

20g / 0.71oz

+

20g / 0.71oz

40g / 1.41oz

30g / 1.06oz

+

30g / 1.06oz

60g / 2.12oz

40g / 1.41oz

+

40g / 1.41oz

80g / 2.82oz

50g / 1.76oz

+

50g / 1.76oz

100g / 3.52oz

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT Apply the colour using your preferred method of off-scalp application - foil, cap or meche are ideal.

Without Heat Total processing time: 35 minutes

OR 35min

With Heat

(40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F)

Make sure hair is covered. Total processing time: 15 minutes

15min

!

Important: When using INFINITI® b:RED® Series on dark coloured hair the use of heat is recommended.

REMOVING THE COLOUR

b:RED® Series

1 At the end of the processing time, rinse until the water runs clear. 2 Cleanse and condition with Affinage® ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

1 36

2


b:RED速 REFRESHER

Refresh your bRED colour in an easy, one step application. b:RED Refresher is a simple and easy to use product designed to refresh red, copper or magenta highlights originally created using Affinage b:RED or a similar product from any other manufacturer. A reapplication of the original highlighting product with its strong lifting action will not fully reproduce the vibrant colour tones of the original. This is because they are being applied to hair which is already been lightened and does not need lightening again - it simply requires a new colour deposit. b:RED Refresher comes in 5 vibrant shades, Red, Red Violet, Red Copper, Copper and Magenta, matching the colours of Affinage b:RED.

Instructions For Use 1 2 3

Apply to shampooed/towel dried hair. Apply to the previously coloured hair/highlighted areas, with either a bowl and brush or straight from the tube. Allow to process, covered, without heat for 5-15 minutes depending on result required. A longer processing time can produce a darker result.

5min 15min

4 5

Rinse well and Shampoo, with Affinage速 ColourCare Shampoo until the water runs clear. Condition if necessary with Affinage速 ColourCare Conditioner.

37


TONE ON TONE

20 SHADES

38

SATIN SERIES

SATIN SERIES

AMMONIA FREE TONE ON TONE COLOUR


INFINITI® SATIN SERIES

Tone on Tone Colour

The ultra gentle, ammonia free formula will not lift or lighten natural or artificial colour and can be used directly after a permanent wave. It can be used to enhance natural hair colour or add tone and will cover up to 50% white hair. INFINITI Satin can also be mixed with Intensives to create unique, one-off colours for your clients. Clear ‘000’ can be used to dilute and modify the other colours in the range to give the colourist unlimited shade variations. Clear ‘000’ can also be used alone (mixed with Satin Activator 2.1% - 7 Vol) to add shine and texture to fine, dull, natural or tinted hair WITHOUT changing the colour.

SATIN SERIES

INFINITI Satin is a series of 20 intermixable, ammonia free tone on tone shades. It is an ideal introduction to first time colouring, gradually washing away and giving minimal re-growth. It is also suitable for clients not requiring a full permanent colour. Advanced breakthrough formula with DATEM PLUS® Technology, Shea Butter and Argan Oil provide beautiful, even results with amazing shine for radiant, healthier-looking hair. INFINITI Satin’s unique conditioning emulsion crème base, coupled with our acclaimed DATEM™ PLUS Technology ensures fast and effective penetration of the colour molecule without cuticle damage.

SHADE GUIDE The INFINITI Satin Shade Chart is based on 50% white hair.

.000

2.0

4.0

5.0

6.0

7.0

8.0

9.00

4.65

5.4

6.65

7.4

5.036

6.036

7.036

9.035

7.3

8.31

8.32

9.23

CLEAR

MEDIUM BLONDE

PORT WINE

CAFFE LATTE

BLACK / BROWN

LIGHT BLONDE

TAWNY COPPER BLONDE

SAHARA

MEDIUM BROWN

CHAMPAGNE

COFFEE

WARM ASH BEIGE

LIGHT BROWN

BEAUJOLAIS

DARK CHOCOLATE

WARM BEIGE

DARK BLONDE

BURNISHED COPPER

MILK CHOCOLATE

PEARL BLONDE

39


COLOUR SELECTION & MIXING INFINITI Satin INFINITI Satin deposits colour without any lift action - it therefore adds colour and/or depth to the clients existing colour.

100ml

+

120ml

1:2

60g

SATIN SERIES

Mix INFINITI Satin in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with INFINITI Satin Activator to the ratio of 1 part colour to 2 parts developer. EXAMPLE 30g/1.06oz INFINITI Satin + 60g/2.12oz INFINITI Satin Activator.

EXAMPLE

For optimum results

If no white hair is present, a shade lighter than the target should be used. This rule does not apply to shades used as toners on very blonde hair (e.g. 9.00 Champagne Blonde, 9.23 Pearl Blonde). Where a lighter shade is not available, mix Clear 000 into the chosen shade to a ratio of 1 part Clear 000 to 3 parts of the chosen INFINITI Satin shade.

EXAMPLE 15g/0.53oz Clear 000 + 45g/1.58oz INFINITI Satin shade + 120g/4.2oz INFINITI Satin Activator. Total mix: 180g/6.34oz.

WHITE HAIR When Approximately 50% white hair is present, the target shade can be used. When Approximately 50% - 100% white hair is present, mix the target shade with the next darker natural shade, to a ratio of 3 parts target shade to 1 part next darker natural shade. EXAMPLE 45g/1.58oz target shade + 15g/0.53oz next darker natural shade + 120g/4.2oz INFINITI Satin Activator. Total mix: 180g/6.34oz.

INFINITI Satin Clear 000 Clear 000 contains no colour and may be used to dilute the colour of any INFINITI Satin shade.

EXAMPLE 45g 4.65 + 15g ‘000’ CLEAR will give a one shade lighter colour - 5.65 30g 4.65 + 30g ‘000’ CLEAR will give a two shade lighter colour - 6.65 15g 4.65 + 45g ‘000’ CLEAR will give a three shade lighter colour - 7.65

!

Important: When you dilute all shades, except naturals, the tone will be weakened.

Using Clear 000 as a Shine & Texturising Treatment Clear 000 can be used alone to add shine and texture to fine, dull, natural or tinted hair WITHOUT changing the colour. Mix Clear 000 with INFINITI Satin Activator to a ratio of 1 part Clear 000 to 2 parts INFINITI Satin Activator. EXAMPLE 30g/1.06oz Clear 000 + 60g/2.12oz INFINITI Satin Activator. Hair Type

Result

Static hair and all hair types that need shine

Hair becomes easier to work and more manageable.

Highlighted Hair

High gloss finish

APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT INFINITI Satin can be applied to wet or dry hair. When applied to pre-washed/towel dried hair, it produces a tone on tone result that gradually fades away. When applied to dry hair, it produces a more permanent result.

40


Virgin Hair: First Time Application Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair and apply from roots to ends. For processing times, see below.

1

1

2

2

20min

25min

SATIN SERIES

Regrowth: Retouch Application

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. When applying where there is still colour present in the ends of the hair, the following method should be used:

1 Apply to the regrowth area only. Process for 15-20 minutes. 2 Apply remaining colour to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair and massage. Process for 5-10 minutes. If the hair is excessively porous through the mid-lengths and ends, it is advisable to mix Clear 000 with the target shade to a ratio of 1 part Clear 000 to 3 parts of the target shade. EXAMPLE 15g/0.53oz Clear 000 + 45g/1.58oz target shade + 120g/4.2oz INFINITI Satin Activator. Total mix: 180g/6.34oz.

Total processing time: 25 minutes.

INFINITI Satin Processing Times Processing times will vary depending on the porosity of the hair. Individual judgement must be made for each application. The following is a guide to help to assess the correct development time.

DO NOT use heat with INFINITI Satin.

15min

1 Natural hair with little or no chemical treatment and low porosity: 20 - 25 minutes or 15 minutes covered with a cap. 2 Chemically treated and porous hair. (tinted / permed) 10 -15 minutes. 3 Very porous natural or chemically treated hair or immediately after perming. 3 - 15 minutes. If necessary dilute with Clear 000. Visual processing time.

4 When using INFINITI Satin as a toner on bleached, very light or porous hair, always strand test prior to application. Use Clear 000 to dilute chosen shade to required depth. Visual processing time.

TIP

INFINITI Satin may also be used to refresh colours from the INFINITI Permanent Hair Colour range after a permanent wave or to refresh the ends after a root application with Infiniti (Numbering System is the same for both products).

REMOVING THE COLOUR

1

2

INFINITI Satin

3

4

1 At the end of the processing time, without adding water, emulsify the colour around the hairline to remove any stains. 2 Add a small amount of water and continue to emulsify the remaining colour. 3 Rinse until the water runs clear. 4 Cleanse and condition with AFFINAGE ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner. 41


HOTSHOTZ

HOTSHOTZ True Semi-Permanent Hair Colour that Delivers Exceptional Shine & Vibrancy. Available in 9 stunning shades, HotShotz illuminates & intensifies existing permanent or semi-permanent hair colour & enhances natural hair colour in only 3 - 20 minutes. It will also cover up to 20% white hair. The advanced créme base with DATEM™ Technology contains no ammonia & requires no peroxide, meaning HotShotz conditions the hair as it provides beautiful radiance, colour and manageability. HotShotz is easy to use, leaves no re-growth & washes completely away after 6 – 10 shampoos (depending on the porosity of the hair). It can be applied straight from the bottle or using a bowl & brush or applicator.

Instructions For Use See chart below for colour selection recommendations. SHADES

RESULTS

RECOMMENDED BASES

QUICKSILVER**

COOL SILVER TONES

10, 9 & 8

SAND BLONDE

WARM GOLDEN BLONDE

9, 8 & 7

BURNT COPPER*

COPPER

8, 7 & 6

RED CHILLI*

HOT RED

7, 6 & 5

WILD HONEY

MUTED GOLD TONES

7, 6 & 5

HOT CHOCOLATE

WARM RICH BROWN

7, 6 & 5

LIQUORICE

BLACK

3, 2 & 1

ICE CHESTNUT

FLAT/ WARM BROWN

7, 6 & 5

AUBERGINE

DEEP PURPLE/ VIOLET TONES

5, 4 & 3

If applied to bases other than those recommended, results may be more vibrant or less vibrant. *These shades will give very vibrant results on pre-lightened hair. **Quicksilver is also recommended for use on pre-lightened hair to neutralise unwanted yellow tones.

Application Shampoo and towel dry hair. Distribute product evenly through the hair using a bowl and brush or applicator. Process for between 3 & 20 minutes depending on result required. Longer processing times will give more long lasting & intense results.

Removal Rinse thoroughly. Due to the conditioning properties of HotShotz, conditioning after processing may not be necessary.

TIP All HotShotz shades are intermixable to enable you to customise your results. 42


COLOUR DYNAMICS

COLOUR DYNAMICS PLATINUM MIST

MANGO SMOOTHIE

ORANGE CRUSH

SUNSET RED

CRIMSON KISS

HOT PINK

MAGIC MAGENTA

PURE PURPLE

BLUE VIOLET

MOODY BLUE

AZURE BLUE

GREEN ENVY

PASTELISED

Ultra Vibrant Semi-Permanent Colour. Customise your hair with electrifying vibrancy, subtle tones or incredible soft pastel effects. • Achieve vibrant or pastel colours on pre-lightened hair, or subtle tones on natural hair. • Semi-permanent creative colour that lasts 6 to 10 washes. • DATEM PLUS® Technology boosts colour penetration for beautifully even, fade resistant results. • Conditioning, shine inducing formula with Shea Butter & Argan Oil nourishes, strengthens & protects. • More than 90% naturally derived ingredients, obtained from sustainable & renewable sources. • Ammonia & peroxide free Mix any Colour Dynamics® vibrant shade with the unique Pasteliser to create incredible soft pastel effects.

Instructions VIBRANT COLOUR: Pre-lighten hair to palest blonde using AFFINAGE Lite, Ice Crème or Blonde. Colour Dynamics should always be applied to pre-washed, towel dried hair. Massage chosen shade into the hair for best result. If applied with a brush, the product MUST be massaged thoroughly into the hair with the hands afterwards. Develop for 15 to 30 minutes. Longer development increases colour depth. Rinse hair until water is clear.

SUBTLE RESULTS: Use on natural or previously coloured hair to enhance or refresh a colour. Follow steps above, without pre-lightening. PASTEL EFFECTS: Follow steps above, but using a bowl and brush, mix chosen shade with Colour Dynamics® Pasteliser. Dispense required amount of Pasteliser into the bowl first, then add correct ratio of chosen shade and mix thoroughly (e.g. 20g Pasteliser + 1g chosen shade). Vary the mix ratio to create your own effects. Dynamic shades may fade quicker when pastelised. Vibrant shades: 150ml | Pasteliser: 500ml

43


SPECTRUM

SPECTRUM The Quick & Easy Solution to Highlighting and Toning. Affinage Spectrum with DATEM PLUS Technology™ is a quick and easy highlighting system for natural and coloured hair. Spectrum lightens and tones the hair during a single process. In addition to the lightening powder and 3 special Activators (8, 22 and 30 vol), the Spectrum system provides a choice of 6 pigments (tones) allowing you to create individual results for each client. You can use as many different tones as you wish, to create stunning results with cool, warm or natural tones. Spectrum can be used with all highlighting techniques, i.e. foils, meches, spatula, caps etc. Affinage recommends the use of the special Spectrum disposable highlight cap. Spectrum advance formulation also allows on-scalp application.

HAIR RED

NG

E)

M PIGMENT S IN WAR CR NE UT EA RA L( OR S A

E

IN TH M AR W

W AR CO M OL

EW A R M T H IN H AIR

ET OL

Spectrum Pigments can subdue or increase warmth in the result:

VI

Choosing Pigments (Tones)

O (G

BL UE

OW LL

ED

UC

E

) LD

44

TH

YE

GREEN

IG M COLOUR P

E

S NT

R


For easy selection of cool Pigments, first identify depth of natural base you are to lift & then refer to the chart below. NATURAL BASE

DOMINANT TONE IN HAIR

SPECTRUM PIGMENT TO USE

10, 9

YELLOW

VIOLET

8, 7, 6

ORANGE

BLUE

5, 4, 3, 2, 1

RED

GREEN

SPECTRUM

Cool Pigments – Green, Blue and Violet reduce the warmth in the hair.

Warm Pigments - Red, Neutral and Yellow increase warmth in the hair. Use these pigments to give subtle warm results.

Activators 8vol (2.4 %) - up to 4 levels of lift 22vol(6.6 %) - up to 5 levels of lift 30vol (9 %) - maximum 5 levels of lift. For dark bases only. NEVER USE 30vol FOR ON SCALP APPLICATIONS.

Mixing Blend in a non-metallic bowl to a creamy consistency. 2 level scoops Lightening Powder 2 level scoops of your chosen Activator 1 level scoop of Pigment (up to 2 level scoops of Pigment may be used for maximum tone deposit)

Application Apply generous amounts of product for maximum lift.

Processing Highlighting • Cover with a processing cap, unless using foil or meches. • Process for between 2 and 12 minutes (max) with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). Always use a pre heated heat source. • Check the lift (lightening effect) every 2 to 3 minutes.

The Spectrum Cap The Spectrum Cap an ideal way to achieve quick & easy highlighting effects is to use the special Spectrum Highlighting Cap. Simply place the cap on the clients head, tie around neck and under chin. Use the hooks provided to pierce the cap and pull through strands of hair to desired thickness. Warm the cap with hand drier to seal holes and mould to head shape. Apply Spectrum and process as per instructions.

On Scalp Application Important - DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves. • Do not cover. • Do not use heat. • Do not use 30vol. • Process for up to 12 minutes (visual development is recommended). • Check the lift (lightening effect) frequently. If desired result is not achieved after maximum processing time (12 minutes), rinse from the hair and re-apply.

Removal Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition with Affinage ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Spectrum will continue to work after 12 minutes but the protection of Datem+ will decrease, & will become more like a traditional bleach.

45


BLONDE

BLONDE Blonde is an ammonia free highlighting system with an advanced on scalp formulation, featuring our unique DATEM™ Technology. Blonde will provide up to 5 levels of lift in 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) DO NOT USE HEAT WHEN APPLYING ON SCALP. It is a gentle alternative to bleach, offering superb lift with low volumes/percentages of developer, leaving the hair in excellent condition. Blonde is ideal for use as a pre-lightener before toners or colour. • DATEM™ Technology - enables maximum lift to be attained in 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) with no damage (OFF SCALP USE). • In addition to on scalp application, any highlighting technique can be used with Blonde, e.g. foil, cap, meche etc. • Blonde’s unique formulation makes the product easy to mix. It’s pleasant perfume and creamy mix ensures easy application and a pleasant experience for your client. • Blonde can be used with all volumes of developer - 3%, 6%, 9% or 12% (9& & 12% are not recommended for on scalp use).

Mixing & Application • Using a non-metallic bowl, mix 15g/0.5oz Part 1 (¼ Blonde Crème Tube) with 25g/1oz Part 2 (1 Blonde Powder Sachet) using 15g/0.5oz to 30g/1oz of your chosen Affinage Crème Developer according to desired consistency (9% & 12% are not recommended for on scalp use). • Apply immediately after mixing to unwashed hair using on scalp application or your desired highlighting technique, e.g. foil, cap, meche etc.

Important DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves.

Processing Times ON SCALP: Process for up to 30 minutes – DO NOT use heat. OFF SCALP: Process for 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) or up to 30 minutes with no heat.

Removal • Rinse thoroughly. • Shampoo & condition with Affinage ColourCare Shampoo & Conditioner.

46


ICE CREME

ICE CREME Ammonia Free Powder Lightener - up to 7 levels of lift. Ice Crème utilises the latest technology in powder lightening, being totally free from ammonia. This new technology is much kinder to the hair producing less swelling, porosity and damage. Ice Crème is suitable for on or off scalp use. Ice Créme comes in Apple White & Fresh Mint Blue. Ice Créme’s dust free on scalp formulation easily mixes to a creamy consistency. This makes for easy application & the product does not dry or flake during the lightening process. Ice Crème is recommended to be used with 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) developer. Ice Crème achieves levels of lift with these developers that are normally associated with using 9%(30vol) & 12%(40vol) developers with traditional bleaches. For on scalp use, we recommend that only 3%(10vol) is used.

Mixing Instructions Mix one scoop of powder lightener with 2 scoops of your chosen Affinage Crème Developer - 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) according to lift required. For best results use Affinage Crème Developer.

Application Do not wash the hair before lightening. Take fine sections of hair and apply bleach liberally. On virgin heads apply to middle lengths and ends first, then to roots where the effect of lightening is quicker because of the scalp’s natural heat. On re-growth applications - do not overlap on to previously lightened hair.

Processing Times Affinage Ice Crème is active for up to 60 mins. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check frequently. Remember: resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development of Ice Créme during process. DO NOT Use Heat. When the required lift is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.

Highlighting Do not wash the hair before application. Use desired method of highlighting, i.e. foil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply Affinage Ice Crème liberally to the hair. Check development time frequently.

Important DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. DO NOT mix the product in a confined space and avoid inhaling the powder. If the product gets into the eyes wash immediately with cold water. Always use rubber gloves.

47


LITE

LITE Dust Free Powder Bleach - up to 7 levels of lift. Lite is a high performance powder bleach suitable for all types of bleaching techniques. The gentle formula can be used with 3%(10vol), 6%(20vol), 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) developers to achieve high lifting power with optimum hair condition. Lite contains Hydrolysed Collagen to eliminate damage and retain elasticity. Lite is available in both blue and white powder. For best results use Affinage Crème Developer. For on scalp use, we recommend that only 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) is used.

Mixing Instructions Mix 1 scoop of lite powder with 2 scoops of you chosen Affinage Crème Developer. You may vary the consistency by adding slightly different amounts of developer according to the technique you wish to use, i.e. full head, foil or cap highlights, etc.

Application Do not wash the hair before lightening. Full Head application, Lite should be applied to the middle lengths and ends first and then to roots. On re-growth - apply Lite to the roots only.

Development Time Lite is active for up to 60 minutes. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check frequently.

Remember Resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development of Lite during processing. When the required lift is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.

Highlighting Do not wash the hair before application. Use desired method of highlighting, i.e. foil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply Lite liberally to the hair. Check development time frequently.

Important DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. DO NOT mix the product in a confined space and avoid inhaling the powder. If the product gets into the eyes wash immediately with cold water. Always use rubber gloves.

48


CONVERTER

CONVERTER A Unique Conversion Concept which Converts any Permanent Hair Colour CrĂŠme to Tone on Tone Effect This unique product (2%(6.7vol)), changes any permanent hair colour into a tone on tone by stopping the action of ammonia therefore removing the lift action of the colour. Converter, when mixed with permanent hair colour, will cover up to 50% white hair. Even if you already have a range of tone on tone colour, Converter will expand your palette by enabling you to use other shades from your existing permanent range. Converter can be used to introduce colour to clients & refresh faded colour.

Instructions For Use Mixing 1 part permanent colour - 20g/0.67oz 2 parts Affinage Converter - 40g/1.35oz

Application First time: Apply from roots to ends. Retouch: Apply to roots only for 15 - 20 minutes. To refresh ends: Apply remaining product to ends for up to 5 minutes.

Process Natural hair: 20 - 25 minutes with no heat. N.B. Use a longer process time for deeper colour results and stronger coverage of white hair. Chemically treated and porous hair (tinted/permed): 10 - 15 minutes. Very porous or chemically treated, bleached or immediately after perming: 3 - 15 minutes (visual development). If using as a toner on bleached hair a strand test is recommended.

Removal After the processing is complete rinse well, shampoo & condition with Affinage ColourCare Shampoo & Conditioner. Rinse thoroughly. Do not use heat to process colours mixed with Converter. Do not mix Converter with High Lift 12. Series.

49


QUICKPIG

QUICK PIG The Fastest Way to Revitalise Tired Colour QuickPig Pre-Pigmentation Spray deposits pure pigment prior to colour correction & re-colouration of bleached, lightened or porous hair. Use on faded colour before refresh application to: • • • • • •

Revive tired colour. Re-colour back to natural shade. Neutralise unwanted tones. Enhance Red, Copper or Gold tones. Equalise porosity for more even and intensive colour results. Reduce colour fade.

QuickPig can be used with any brand of permanent, or tone-on-tone hair colour & is available in 3 colours:

RED for use before red, violet or mahogany shades or re-colouring back to base shades 1.0 to 5.0. ORANGE for use before copper shades or re-colouring back to base shades 6.0 - 8.0. YELLOW for use before gold shades or re-colouring back to base shades 9.0 - 10.0.

Application 1

Apply sparingly to dry hair.

2

Massage in, concentrating on the most porous areas. DO NOT RINSE. Remove excess product with paper towel. Overloading of QuickPig can prevent penetration of colour pigment.

3

Apply chosen permanent or tone on tone shade, & process according to manufacturer’s instructions.

The table below indicates correct choice of QuickPig colour depending on the target depth:

50

TARGET DEPTH

COLOUR

10, 9

YELLOW

8, 7, 6

ORANGE

5, 4, 3, 2, 1

RED


ERASER

ERASER Some Days We All Wish Our Hair Had a Reset Button Eraser is a revolutionary, non-bleaching colour removal system for unwanted or incorrect permanent and tone-on-tone hair colour. Simple, safe and reliable, Eraser actively reduces the size of artificial hair colour molecules within the hair shaft, allowing them to be completely rinsed away, leaving the hair’s natural pigment untouched. Because no bleaching takes place, Eraser is a much safer and more controllable product than other ‘bleach’ based colour removal systems. Eraser will not lift natural hair (hair with no artificial pigment), thus making colour removal easier when a regrowth is present. Eraser will not damage hair that has been previously bleached, chemically relaxed or permed. The low pH, conditioning formula leaves the hair in better condition than when you started and ready for a fresh application of colour immediately.

The Action of Permanent Hair Colour An artificial dye is generated from small colourless molecules called ‘intermediates’. When these intermediates come into contact with peroxide, they combine to make bigger colour molecules in a process called ‘oxidation’. This action occurs inside the hair and, when the colour processing time is finished, the molecules have become large enough not to exit the hair. To remove these ‘large’ molecules, we have to reduce them in size to allow them to ‘exit’ the hair shaft. Eraser has the ability to do this by using a unique sulphur compound which does not damage the hair and is only effective on the artificial colour molecules. Cationic conditioners in Part 1 and Part 2 ensure that the hair condition is actually improved during the process.

The Action of Eraser Part 1 & Part 2 A unique feature of Eraser is the carrier with the reducing agent, which is one of the most efficient available. Eraser is designed with a creamy base and DATEM Technology which enable the ingredients to penetrate deeper in to the hair. This makes eraser very effective in reducing the colour molecules.

The Action of Post Eraser Post Eraser contains a unique chelating cleansing system. This will remove 100% of the free intermediates and prevent the re-oxidisation that causes darkening. Post Eraser also moisturises the hair & restores the natural pH, leaving it in excellent condition.

51


ERASER

Condition Due to its very low pH (3) and the cationic conditioners, Eraser leaves the hair soft, smooth and shiny.

Instructions Use in a well ventilated area.

STEP 1

Mix equal parts of Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, i.e. 50ml : 50ml, in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. This is enough working product for 1 application on short hair. Blend the mixture together for at least 1 minute (this will activate the product) and use immediately. Always apply to dry hair, avoiding the scalp, to the area requiring colour removal and cover with a plastic cap.

Process as follows: • Removing pale shades or unwanted tones: 5 - 15 minutes without heat. • For removal of dark, old or intense colour: 15 minutes with gentle heat (40-42°C / 104-108°F). • Check the hair frequently until desired result is obtained.

STEP 2 When desired result is achieved, rinse well for 5 minutes (for short hair, increase time for long hair) and shampoo 4 times with a deep cleansing/clarifying shampoo). STEP 3 Post Eraser contains chelating agents to help remove the reduced artificial molecules more efficiently andprevent re-oxidisation. It will also indicate if all artificial molecules have been removed. Post Eraser moisturises and returns hair to correct pH. For short hair mix 50ml of Post Eraser with 40ml of water and 10ml of 6%(20vol) Affinage Crème Developer. Mix in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. Blend and apply to hair as a shampoo. Massage gently for 2-3 minutes and then rinse well. N.B. If the hair appears to have darkened after applying Post Eraser, this is an indication that there may be colour molecules still remaining within the hair. If this occurs please repeat Eraser process. Remember to apply Part 1 and Part 2 to dry hair. To achieve your chosen shade select a colour 1 shade lighter than the target shade, e.g. if target colour is 7.0, use 8.0. + 6%(20vol) Affinage Crème Developer. When re-colouring after an Eraser process, staying on the same level or to darken, 6%(20vol) Affinage Crème Developer should ALWAYS be used. When using a lifting product following an Eraser process, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

CAUTION Do not allow the product to come into contact with the eyes. Use suitable gloves. Do not apply to scalp. Do not apply to eyebrows or lashes. Apply the product in a well ventilated place. Do not use on hair treated with henna, metallic salts or true semi permanent colours. On no account mix Eraser with peroxide, except Post Eraser.

52


Q. A.

NO

Q. A.

As many times as required to achieve desired result.

Q. A. Q. A. Q. A. Q. A. Q. A.

Do I have to re-colour the hair after using Eraser?

ERASER

Q&A

How many times can I use Eraser?

Do I have to apply Post Eraser after every application of Eraser Part 1 and Part 2? YES, it will help to remove the reduced artificial colour molecules more efficiently, condition and restore hair’s natural pH. Can I use a tone on tone to re-colour? NO. It will give you a darker than desired result. Can I use permanent colour with Converter to re-colour? NO, it will give you a darker than desired result as Converter is a low strength developer. Can I create highlights after using Eraser? YES Can I apply an on scalp bleach application after the Eraser process? NO. This is due to increased scalp sensitivity.

53


AFFINAGE COLOUR WHEEL

INT

E

VES NSI

INF

SERIE

S

0.6 0.6 .6 RED

I INIT

.5 M AHO GA NY

RED

RED -

VIO LE T

.2

VI O L

.4 C OP PE R O

RA NG E

2

5.66

22

4.66 4.

22

3.66

5.4

4

6.4

7.4

6.

7.43

7.76

5.76

1.7

3.76

2

2.

8.43

BLUE LETVIO

8.4

4

3

5.

OW ELL GE-Y ORAN

BL UE

3

6. 3 7. 3 9.

0.7

3

8. .3 10

LL YE

7.1

O W

.3

GO

3 0.

LD

9.1 10.1

E LU -B N EE GR

GREEN

.1 GREEN ASH

0.1

> Each ring of the colour wheel represents a level of depth. > Darker colours are closest to the centre of the colour wheel. > Light colours are furthest from the centre of the colour wheel. > .0 and .00 are a unique blend of many tones from the colour wheel to create their NEUTRAL status. Therefore they cannot be shown graphically on this wheel. > Affinage Intensives are marked on the outside of the colour wheel.

0.76 54

.7 B LU E

0.4

6.66

H AS

8.

9. 2

10 .2

T LE

7.66

ET

V IO

2 0.

D RE ENG A R O

Intensives 0.76 is not shown on the colour wheel above as it cannot be accurately positioned.

Affinage - Complete Technical Manual  
Affinage - Complete Technical Manual