BAKERY

Paprenjoci: Divine, Medieval Spice Cookies

By Tantjana Kezic’

I just cannot help but mention the Starogrojski Hvarski (version of the ancient cookie) Paprenjok.

As its name shows, this particular recipe is from the Adriatic island of Hvar. Despite the name, there is no pepper in this recipe. “Papor” in this case doesn’t stand for pepper, but for the combination of 3 spices: cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. Today, Paprenjok is a symbol of Hvar and has become a traditional Dalmatian treat.

The old story says that mothers and wives made this ambitious, yet regal recipe for their sons and husbands who went off on a long sail. Paprenjoci can last for 2 months as a nice treat and, interestingly enough, as a natural barometer: they become soft before a southerly wind and rain, and tough before a northerly wind and a sunny day.

The recipe was preserved with tremendous love and care. The creativity of Hvar’s people is shown in these fragrant cookies’ delicate modeling and decorating. Paprenjoci are cut into shapes like fish, starfish, seahorses, anchor – and then decorated in a filigree style.

Ingredients • cookies

500 g flour

100 mL Prošek (not Italian Prosecco, but a thicker, syrupy and sweet, dessert-style wine made from dried grapes, notably in the Dalmatia region of Croatia.)

100 mL olive oil

250 g honey

1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp nutmeg

1 tsp cloves

1 tsp saffron

1 tsp baking soda

Ingredients • frosting

1 egg white

150 g powdered sugar

1 tsp lemon juice

LINK TO EASY CONVERSION CHART method yield 12-18 cookies decorating

1. In a large pot, bring olive oil, Prošek and honey to a boil.

2. Add all the spices and slowly sift in flour with baking soda to make dough. It should be smooth and dense.

3. Roll out the dough, make it ½ cm thick, and make differently shaped Paprenjok with cookie cutters.

4. Bake in a shallow baking tray for 20 minutes at 180º C.

1. Time (Do not rush!)

2. Whisk the egg a little with fork and add all the sugar.

3. Stir until smooth, then add lemon juice and stir it again.

4. The mixture should be sticky and look like syrup.

5. Put it in a piping bag and decorate each Paprenjok by drizzling the icing over it.

6. Leave aside for few hours to dry.