NIL ALCOHOL

A NEW FACE FOR THE NEW ZEALAND WINE INDUSTRY; WINES WITH LESS, LITTLE OR EVEN ZERO ALCOHOL

Research and Words Martin Gillion “A rose is a rose is a rose” wrote Gertrude Stein in 1913 in one of her disjunctive, modernistic poems, ‘Sacred Emily’ She was a widely followed, Paris-based, American poet, dramatist, art collector and confidante of the of ‘glitterati’ of her day. Her salon was frequented by the likes of Picasso, Hemingway, Scott-Fitzgerald, Ezra Pound, Henri Matisse and the like. The most quoted line from the poem, ….‘a rose is a rose is a rose’ …. has been reprised throughout the years as an expression of the immutability of things, especially those that are precious or beautiful or both. By contrast, many things these days seem to defy any idea of immutability; the ‘techie’ community brings us countless examples. Has anyone seen a cassette recorder lately? Most definitions of ‘wine’ require the fermentation of grape

juice or other fruit juices, as a prime requirement and many would query the notion of calling a liquid with no discernible alcohol a wine in any shape or form!

The difference seems to be that the low/zero alcohol product began as a fully fermented wine and thus is entitled to the nomenclature. So is a rose still a rose even if it has had the perfume removed artificially? Irrespective of what we purists may think, there is no denying the increasing popularity of wines marketed as ‘low alcohol’ (usually under 1%) or ‘alcohol removed’ wine with similar alcohol levels.

There are now separate sections for low/zero alcohol wines in local and international shows and New World supermarkets have established separate presentations for them in their stores.

But as one store owner remarked, “The wines are not necessarily cheap. Technology and winery management costs add to the price rather than making it less expensive.”

But while technology lies behind the ability to produce low/zero alcohol wines, the underlying process is not new. Winemakers have always controlled and managed alcohol levels. Super ripe Chardonnay cannot reasonably handle the 15 -16% alcohol that modern yeasts and improved processing can produce. And at 16% - around the time even super developed yeasts die - even the most sturdy Shiraz struggles. Some measures that control alcohol are natural. Speak to a producer of German Riesling and you will be told that cool climate viticulture, lower sugars and smaller crops are the prime ingredients for some of the world’s most celebrated wines. Their wines often rejoice in their modest sweetness and match it with threads of mouth-watering acidity.

And indeed winemakers such as Marlborough’s John Forrest have emulated such practices to produce outstanding wines in the German style.

In some cases lower alcohol, early harvested wines, are blended back into the latercropped versions thus achieving lower alcohol wine with similar characters. Many of these are marketed as ‘lighter’ and will carry around 9% or 10% alcohol.

But recent times have seen the growth of sophisticated techniques to produce wines where the alcohol has been greatly reduced or eliminated almost entirely. It is these wines, usually branded as ‘zero’ alcohol or ‘alcohol removed’ that are becoming increasingly popular.

However the arrival of these has been no rush of blood to the head.

In 2007 more than twenty NZ wineries joined a $17m government and industrysupported project dedicated to assessing the practicality and appeal of low alcohol wines.

The results have been more than encouraging, not only in New Zealand, but also, most importantly, in offshore markets such as the USA and the UK.

Marlborugh’s Giesen Estate is one of the most advanced in their production of alcohol removed wines and both winemaker Duncan Shouler and marketing manager Angela Flynn point to a yearly growth of more than 500% in the US and comment that the New Zealand market is indeed promising.

“The style has gained enthusiastic acceptance from some sections in this country,” says Angela. “And it is significant that the New World Wine Show has created a separate category for low alcohol wines and has supported them with considerable in-store marketing.”

There seem to be a number of reasons for this low alcohol enthusiasm.

In a recent NZ Listener feature Paul Little posited that social mores have changed and being unable or unwilling to consume quantities of alcohol at social gatherings has become more acceptable.

And of course admonishments from the medical profession concerning the dangers of foetal damage in pregnancy when alcohol is consumed has changed some behaviours.

Most importantly people have learned to measure their alcohol intake if they aim to drive.

But wineries deciding to go down the low alcohol highway is not without risks.

The technical requirements are complicated and not cheap. A spinning cone installation (see box out) requires a serious investment and currently Giesen Group is the only New Zealand winery that has installed one. It’s a move that Duncan says gives them complete control over the whole process. “Much in the way we control all that happens in the traditional wine making procedures.”

Vintech Pacific’s Napier site hosts the only other spinning cone facility and undertakes the process under contract.

Other wine producers rely on the reverse osmosis process (see box out) to reduce alcohol percentages; a process that one winery technician told me was especially useful in reducing alcohol rather than eliminating it.

Reverse Osmosis plants are less expensive and more transportable but they still require investment in in a market that is still yet to settle.

But the real boost to low alcohol sales comes from the quality of the wines being produced.

The effects of the 1970 ‘Claytons’ advertising campaign’ where the non-alcoholic ‘Claytons Whisky’ was promoted as the “drink you have when you’re not having a drink” has largely dissipated, having morphed into a sceptical tag line that applies to any modest purchase that was an imitation of the real thing.

As Giesen’s Alison Flynn commented, “Our low alcohol wines aim to give as true a representation as possible of the fully fermented wines from which they are made. They will not be identical but will retain tastes, textures and flavours of their ‘parent’ wine and need to be respected in their own right.”

So to counter Gertrude Stein’s claim that, a “rose is a rose is a rose” we can look to Shakespeare’s play ‘Romeo and Juliet’ where the heroine proudly proclaim her love for Romeo even though he came from the wrong vintage. “A rose by any other name would smell as sweet” she said.

HOW TO GET ALCOHOL OUT OF WINE

REVERSE OSMOSIS is one of the technologies used to decrease or adjust the alcohol contained in a wine.

Colin Ford of Vintech Pacific –a company supplying and servicing winery technology in New Zealand -comments that reverse osmosis is mostly used to adjust the palate by altering alcohol levels by .5 – 2%

Under pressure the wine is passed through very fine membranes that remove only the water and the ethanol as both have the smallest molecular structures.

The water and ethanol are distilled or separated with another membrane. The alcohol is dismissed and the water with no alcohol is blended back in to the original wine thus lowering the average alcohol balance but retaining colour, flavour and tannin.

SPINNING CONE technology is used in a number industries where it is desirable to separate volatile aspects from each other. It is expensive, complicated, looks like a small petro-chemical plant and is not portable or transportable. But it is the most gentle way of separating alcohol from wine.

Very basically it is a type of distillation but relies on undertaking the process in a vacuum. The liquid (wine) is then vaporised without the use of high temperatures (perhaps just 35 degrees) and rapidly spinning cones within the vacuum create a vapour-thin film of wine to enable separation. Within 20 seconds or so the alcohol is removed to within .5%

Colin comments that the technology involves considerable investment. “Perhaps between $1– 2 million not counting the extra costs of winery management,” he says.

Currently Giesen Group are the only winery with spinning cone technology installed but Vintech Pacific have their own plant in Napier which runs on a contract basis

Colin’s more technical explanation is available at https://www.vintechpacific. co.nz/memstar-reverse-osmosis.

Giesen Duncan Shouler Spinning Cone vertical JTP©

So how do the wines taste?

As tastings go this was an entirely un-scientific and un-professional tasting by the two of us prior to our dinner.

It was designed more to see what differences might be apparent between the low alcohol version and the ‘parent’, full alcohol wine.

No scores, stars, gongs or medals were awarded.

Giesen Estate kindly supplied the wines.

The Riesings from the 2021 vintage were both chilled and appeared identical when poured. We found little difference in taste with both retaining freshness, nice acidity and flavours. The full alcohol version seemed to have a bouquet that was little more lifted.

Most people, ourselves included, would not notice a difference when poured for us in a social situation

The 2021 Giesen Merlots appeared almost identical in the glass but the full alcohol version seemed to have a little more depth of colour and bouquet. Taste-wise there seemed to be a little more acidity in the low alcohol version.

We both agreed that for a red wine we would look for more depth of flavour and acknowledge that this would require an increased cost whether low alcohol or not.

VINTEC

As wine lovers, we understand how important temperature and the right conditions are for the enjoyment of wine. In many cases when wine is not served nor stored in the right conditions, there can significant changes in flavors, aromas and overall taste, completely striping the wine from the characteristics that were once intended by the winemaker during the production.

That’s why our products are designed to recreate the perfect storage conditions found in the best natural underground cellars – designed for wine lovers, by wine lovers.

In addition to products that care for wine, we have launched recently OENO by Vintec, our newly developed cellar management app powered by Vivino. OENO allows wine lovers to keep track of their collections effortlessly while also understanding how to best enjoy their wines.

THE EXPERIENCE BEYOND THE PRODUCT

We also know the wine journey of any wine lover goes beyond the product, with education and unique experiences that inspire, engage and build knowledge.

The platform we use to provide experiences and content is the Vintec Club, a private club for Vintec cellar owners who get access to exclusive wine tastings and dinners, special benefits, and unique opportunities from the wine industry.

The Vintec Club is also a public platform for wine content available for all wine lovers. With weekly new content being produced in partnership with renowned wine experts from all around the world, the club also organizes occasional open events and opportunities for the wider community who can register as a guest, free of charge. We are eager to share our passion with like-minded wine lovers!

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