Club + Resort Chef September 2024

September 2024

www.clubandresortchef.com

Steady

Under Pressure

Executive Chef Zeb Hartline and the team at Houston CC turned challenging circumstances into a thriving culture of innovation and excellence.

001_COV0924_V1_EC.indd 25

8/27/24 12:37 PM

E D I TO R ’ S M E M O

TAKING THE LONG VIEW

ON THE SOCCER FIELD, the true measure of success isn’t winning the next match; it’s about preparing for the journey ahead. As a youth coach, my philosophy is to train players so thoroughly that they can choose which team they want to play for. My aim isn’t just to win the next game; it’s to equip them with the skills, confidence, and resilience to excel on any field they step onto.

This mindset is rooted in empowerment—ensuring that when the whistle blows, they don’t just participate; they prove they belong.

The most successful chefs I’ve encountered share this same approach with their teams. They don’t just train their staff to get through the day; they invest in their growth, challenge them to reach new heights, and prepare them for the future. These chefs understand that when their team members apply for their next job, it shouldn’t be a matter of chance or competition—it should be evident that they are the right choice because they’ve been trained to be the best.

As we finalize the agenda for the 2025 Chef to Chef Conference, which will be held in Baltimore from March 23rd through March 25th, this same philosophy is guiding the decisions we make. My goal is to ensure that every session, speaker, and event delivers the depth, insight, and inspiration to empower attendees to forge their own paths with confidence.

2 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2024

26_Edit Memo 0924_V3_JD-F.indd 26

Just as I strive to prepare my players for any field they might step onto, I want the chefs who attend Chef to Chef to leave fully equipped to tackle their next challenge, implement new ideas, and lead their teams with confidence. Chef to Chef isn’t just about sharing knowledge—it’s about fostering a sense of purpose and direction that will resonate long after we leave Baltimore.

Just as I coach my players to look beyond the next game, I encourage every chef to take the long view— train your team not just for today but for their careers ahead. Think of the Chef to Chef Conference, and all the content we produce, as your playbook for longterm success.

The field is yours for the taking.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

www.clubandresortchef.com

8/27/24 12:27 PM

CONTENTS September • Vol. 13 • Issue 5

Departments

2 Editor’s Memo teady Under Pressure 4 SE xecutive Chef Zeb Hartline and the

team at Houston CC turned challenging circumstances into a thriving culture of innovation and excellence.

ursuit of Perfection: Clubs 8 PCommit to Sushi’s Craft S ushi is seeing greater popularity among members and guests, requiring clubs to continuously train sushi chefs to balance tradition and trends.

12 GCluboingchefsGreen are doing their part to protect the planet by reducing food waste and sourcing locally.

ehind the Burners: 16 BBalancing the Heat

Chefs Andrew Wisnionski and Geoffrey Lanez share their experiences managing stress, leading teams, and driving innovation in the kitchen.

Cover photo by Abante Photography

06_TOC_0924_V5_JD-F.indd 27

September 2024 l Club + Resort Chef l 3

9/15/24 8:01 PM

CLUB PROFILE

Steady

Under Pressure Executive Chef Zeb Hartline and the team at Houston CC turned challenging circumstances into a thriving culture of innovation and excellence.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-in-Chief

HOUSTON COUNTRY CLUB

CALM OUT OF CHAOS

has long been a symbol of tradition and prestige, but when faced with a complex renovation, it became a canvas for resilience and innovation.

Leading this transformation is Executive Chef Zeb Hartline, whose story is defined by creativity and an unyielding commitment to clarifying what it means to dine at HCC. By focusing on team empowerment and blending modern techniques with time-honored traditions, Hartline, alongside his dedicated team, has elevated the HCC’s culinary culture, ensuring that every dining experience reflects the rich legacy of the historic club.

The renovation of HCC was no small feat. The project involved a comprehensive overhaul that touched every aspect of the club’s operations.

For Hartline, who came to the club halfway through the renovation process, this meant managing culinary operations and maintaining quality without a fully operational kitchen.

“I think I’m made for the chaos,” says Hartline. “There’s always something to do and decisions to be made. Plus, the team needs you every step of the way, and you have to keep showing up, putting on a smile, and doing your best to keep up morale and order.”

One of the most challenging aspects

4 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2024

028_CF_0924_V8_JD.indd 28

was the renovation of the banquet kitchen, which was out of commission for over a year. This forced Hartline and his team to adapt by using the a la carte kitchen for banquet services.

They often ran multiple events simultaneously, managing a million dollars in food and beverage sales during peak months without the proper facilities.

Today, HCC offers the club’s 1,300 members a variety of dining spaces.

There are nine different a la carte venues, ranging from grab and go to casual to fine dining. Each offers distinct menus and atmospheres. The operation, which does $9.7 million in annual food and beverage, also www.clubandresortchef.com

8/28/24 8:56 AM

Executive Chef Zeb Hartline (left) channels his passion for innovation and team empowerment into every dish—like the smoked salmon pâté with crispy capers, fennel, soft herbs, and grilled sourdough—elevating the dining experience at HCC.

includes two ballrooms that host a variety of events, from intimate gatherings to large-scale functions. In addition to the main dining areas, the club has a state-of-the-art kitchen, a dedicated pastry shop, a butcher shop, and specialized facilities for meat aging and smoking, all designed to support the high-volume, high-quality service that HCC is known for.

Despite the challenges, the kitchen staff, inspired by Hartline’s leadership, rallied together to deliver outstanding results. “The resilience and adaptability of the team during the renovation were remarkable,” says Janine Budzius, CCM, CCE, HCC’s current General Manager and COO. “[Hartline] has cultivated a culture of excellence, and it’s reflected in how the team rose to meet every challenge.” www.clubandresortchef.com

028_CF_0924_V8_JD.indd 29

CREATING A CULINARY CULTURE One of the most significant aspects of Hartline’s impact at HCC has been his ability to build and nurture a strong culinary team. His leadership style, characterized by a blend of approachability and quiet intensity, has fostered a culture of collaboration and continuous improvement. “[Hartline] is an innovative and creative leader,” says Budzius. “He empowers his team members and functions with a high level of creativity.

His passion is contagious, and he makes a strong effort to connect with our members on a personal level.”

Hartline’s approach to team-building is rooted in his belief that a successful operation relies on the strength of its people. “I’ve always believed that

a great kitchen is built on mutual respect and a shared commitment to excellence,” says Hartline. “When the team feels empowered and valued, they’re motivated to bring their best to the table every day.

“We can teach anyone how to cook, but we can’t teach them to show up every day with a positive attitude and a willingness to help their fellow teammates,” adds Hartline. “You can be the best cook in the world, but if you can’t get along with the person next to you, HCC is not for you.”

This mindset has driven his focus on fostering teamwork and a positive culture, where collaboration is valued as much as culinary skill.

In addition to teamwork, Hartline is committed to empowering his team members. “Empowerment and September 2024 l Club + Resort Chef l 5

8/28/24 8:56 AM

Hartline (left) and his team—Sous Chef Gerardo Martinez (center) and Sous Chef Lily Sahagun (right)—meticulously plate dishes during an event, reflecting the strong culture he’s built at Houston Country Club. “It’s all about showing up every day, working together, and delivering something special,” says Hartline, highlighting the camaraderie and dedication that define his kitchen.

recognition are key,” he says. “We’ve started doing quarterly awards where our managers vote for standout team members, and we make sure everyone’s hard work is recognized.”

This strategy has not only strengthened the team’s capabilities but has also enhanced the overall member experience at the club.

Jose Zamora, HCC’s Director of Food & Beverage, underscores the

importance of this cultural synergy. “[Hartline] and I share a similar perspective on the importance of being of service to and believing in one another. This mindset is critical to our success,” Zamora explains.

“When I first arrived, the staff was already stepping out of their way to be gracious and accommodating.

[Hartline] had a lot to do with creating that welcoming environment.”

The Chef’s Table at HCC epitomizes its commitment to blending tradition with innovation, creating a memorable and personalized dining experience for members.

6 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2024

028_CF_0924_V8_JD.indd 30

HONORING TRADITION, EMBRACING EVOLUTION Hartline’s culinary philosophy is centered on delivering consistent quality while evolving the club’s offerings to meet the changing needs of its diverse membership. He understands that in a club like HCC, where tradition is cherished, any innovation must be balanced with respect for established expectations.

“It’s about honoring what has made HCC special for generations while also pushing boundaries to keep things fresh and exciting for our members,” says Hartline.

“The greatest potential lies in the evolution of our traditional club food and beverage culture,” says Budzius.

“While it’s important to maintain the club’s traditions, we must also evolve with current trends and the desires of our newer members. [Hartline] is well-positioned to meet this challenge, ensuring that our offerings remain relevant and engaging.”

Hartline’s focus on consistency and quality is evident in every dish that leaves his kitchen. “We’re committed to sourcing the freshest ingredients and working closely with local purveyors to ensure we’re providing our members with the best possible dining experience,” Hartline explains. www.clubandresortchef.com

8/28/24 8:56 AM

Whether it’s the shucked-to-order oysters with champagne mignonette or the prosciutto pizza topped with burrata cheese, balsamic pearls, garlic confit, and petite basil, every dish at HCC reflects the meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality that defines the club’s culinary program.

His creativity shines in dishes like the corn cappelletti, a summer favorite that Budzius praises for its vibrant flavors and innovative presentation.

But it’s not just about the food.

Hartline places a strong emphasis on member engagement, often welcoming members into his kitchen for personalized experiences. “These chef’s tables and culinary classes are not just about showcasing our food— they’re about building connections and giving our members a deeper understanding of what we do,” says Hartline. His chef’s tables and culinary classes have become highly anticipated events, offering members a unique glimpse into the culinary process and a chance to connect with the team on a personal level.

HOSPITALITY TO HIGH SOCIETY Hartline’s extensive background in the competitive luxury hotel industry has been a significant asset in his role at HCC. His experience working with renowned brands like Gaylord Hotels and The JW Marriott Orlando Grande Lakes equipped him with a deep understanding of high-volume, high-quality service—skills that translate seamlessly to the dynamic www.clubandresortchef.com

028_CF_0924_V8_JD.indd 31

and demanding environment of a club like HCC. “In hotels, you’re constantly adapting to different events, guests, and service styles, which requires a high level of flexibility and attention to detail,” says Hartline. “Those same principles apply in the club world, but with an added layer of personal connection with the members. Hotels taught me how to deliver consistent quality, even under pressure, which has been hugely valuable in managing the complex operations and renovations at HCC.” Hartline’s ability to handle largescale events, maintain high standards, and foster a strong culture in the kitchen and beyond it has been crucial in meeting the expectations of HCC’s discerning membership.

“In the hotel industry, we learned to anticipate the needs of a diverse clientele, and I’ve brought that same proactive approach to HCC,” Hartline adds. “It’s about creating an experience that feels both personalized and exceptional.”

His transition from hotels to clubs has allowed him to bring a fresh perspective, blending the best both industries to create a uniquely effective approach to club culinary.

AT HCC, THE BEST IS YET TO COME As HCC continues to evolve, Hartline’s visionary leadership will be pivotal in shaping the culinary program’s future. With the renovation complete, the focus now shifts to maximizing the potential of the new facilities and refining the overall member experience.

“We’re developing our strategy for the coming years,” says Zamora. “This includes enhancing our wine program, boosting our banquet performance, and reinstating traditional service standards. [Hartline’s] leadership will be key in these efforts, as we aim to exceed our members’ expectations.”

Hartline’s vision is rooted in his commitment to the craft and belief in the power of a strong team. He is dedicated to keeping HCC at the forefront of innovation while honoring its cherished traditions.

“As we look to the future, it’s about more than keeping up with trends—it’s about setting the standard,” Hartline says. “We have an incredible team and state-of-the-art facilities, and together, we’re going to push the boundaries of what’s possible in club dining while honoring what makes HCC special.” C+RC September 2024 l Club + Resort Chef l 7

8/28/24 8:56 AM

FOOD + BEVERAGE

Pursuit of Perfection:

Clubs Commit to Sushi’s Craft

Sushi is seeing greater popularity among members and guests, requiring clubs to continuously hire or train sushi chefs to balance tradition and trends.

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

SUSHI PLAYS A VITAL ROLE in Ocean Reef Club’s $45 million culinary operation. The Islander Fish House & Sushi Bar, one of the Key Largo, Fla.-based club’s 22 dining outlets, features a 30-seat sushi bar and 15 dedicated sushi chefs, led by Executive Sushi Chef Eric Andreu.

While Andreu has spent more than 8 l Club + Resort Chef l September

32-24_Food_0924_V6_IG.indd 32

30 years making sushi, he considers his own style a marriage of old- and new-school technique.

“I came from the old school,” he explains, “but I have to keep up with the trends.”

At Ocean Reef—where Andreu’s spent the past decade—he’s afforded the resources to continuously hone

his craft, which benefits himself, his team and, in turn, the membership.

“If I ever want to go to a restaurant and try it out, [Ocean Reef] sends me to that restaurant,” he says. “If I want to study under a chef, they’ll send me to that chef. If I want to go to Japan, they’ll send me to Japan.”

Andreu recently visited the threewww.clubandresortchef.com

8/27/24 11:24 AM

Lerry Wijaya (pictured), Garde Manger Chef and Head Sushi Chef of Palm Beach CC, describes his culinary style as modern while still honoring sushi’s roots. His tuna poke (pictured) features diced bigeye tuna mixed with poke sauce, avocado mousse, tobiko, pickled radish, micro viola and kimchi aioli.

Michelin-starred restaurant Masa in New York City and worked with Chef Masa Takayama.

Andreu’s own career began at Shibui, one of Miami’s first sushi restaurants, where he worked his way up from busboy before he was invited to make sushi in 1991.

“From there, I started following other chefs to learn more,” he says. “Then I finally made it to school; I got a degree at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale.

Then I lived in Russia for six years— opened two restaurants. I lived in Thailand for three months, and I worked at a restaurant in Japan for six months.”

Now, at Ocean Reef, he’s working with Chef Shinji Sakamoto, one of his first teachers and mentors.

“I’ve had a lot of mentors, but he was one who stuck with me through whatever I did,” Andreu says. “He’d always come and visit me to see how I was doing, how the restaurants I was running were doing. … His wife passed away, and she’d told him to come see me, that I would take care of him. So he came to see me, and I said, ‘Why don’t you come work with me?’”

“I love it,” Andreu adds. “The way we talk, it’s different from talking to the people I’m teaching.”

He and Sakamoto are currently working on an unagi sauce for Ocean Reef, and eventually, Andreu aims to make his own soy sauce.

“I’ve never tried it, but I’ve been studying it,” he says. “It takes a year to make, and then you’ll find out if it’s good or bad. I’m hoping to go to Japan this year and visit some soy breweries. That’s my next step.”

A GLOBAL PHENOMENON Lerry Wijaya, Garde Manger Chef www.clubandresortchef.com

32-24_Food_0924_V6_IG.indd 33

and Head Sushi Chef of Palm Beach (Fla.) Country Club, says the problem facing most clubs and resorts now is a lack of trained sushi chefs.

“It may be time to consider adding sushi to the curriculum of culinary arts schools,” he says, “or creating a sushi chef community that provides training for chefs or cooks at clubs and resorts during the off-season.”

Wijaya sees sushi as a particularly creative segment of culinary.

“Sushi is an art that transforms into a dish,” he says. “Most sushi chefs have an artistic sense that influences the sushi’s quality, presentation, and deliciousness. Deliciousness originates from presentation. The presentation of a dish has the power to stimulate the appetite.”

Wijaya got his start in sushi at a friend’s restaurant in New York.

“I was very interested in sushi, so he gave me an opportunity to learn,” Wijaya says. “[Sushi] is [a good] fit for me because of my personality; I’m a creative person. I like to be in the kitchen, to move around, to create.”

Prior to joining Palm Beach CC, he spent some time as a private sushi chef in Europe and the Middle East, where he had the opportunity, like Andreu, to work on a tasting menu with Chef Masa Takayama.

These days, Wijaya hones his skills and keeps pace with trends by visiting restaurants and by viewing social media or YouTube for plating inspiration.

He also plans to visit Japan next year.

Wijaya considers his culinary style

primarily modern, with respect for tradition. Sushi, he says, has unlimited flavor combinations.

“I’m inspired me to incorporate elements from different cuisines into sushi,” he notes. “I enjoy incorporating a modern twist while still honoring its traditional roots. This enhances the flavor of sushi without creating confusion.”

His Surf and Turf roll features tempura lobster, avocado and cucumber, topped with Japanese wagyu filet mignon tataki, masago, crispy shallot and spicy hollandaise sauce; his Hamachi Jalapeño features hamachi, sliced jalapeño, cilantro oil, pickled sweet pepper, jalapeño and yuzu pearls and kaffir lime ponzu sauce; and his Tofu Wahoo Tataki combines crispy tofu, togarashi-seared Wahoo and mango rujak salsa.

While Palm Beach CC doesn’t have a dedicated sushi bar, Wijaya believes it has immense staying power in clubs.

“The demand for this cuisine is remarkably high—it has become a global phenomenon,” he says. “Members seek out healthy meal options, including sushi made with fish, avocado, vegetables, and even substituting sushi rice with brown or black rice.”

September 2024 l Club + Resort Chef l 9

8/27/24 11:24 AM

FOOD + BEVERAGE

Hideaway Beach Club has one dedicated sushi chef, Estuardo Rodriguez (right), and a sushi chef in training, Giovanni Senteno (left).

However, Executive Chef Tim Smith says all culinary staff are trained in sushi due to growing demand in both a la carte and banquets.

KEEPING UP WITH DEMAND Hideaway Beach Club in Marco Island, Fla., has one dedicated sushi chef and another currently in training.

“I also train all of my staff in sushi because it has been such a high-demand item in the club, it has rolled into our banquets, events and wedding packets as well,” says Executive Chef Timothy Smith.

Hideaway Beach Club has three restaurants nearly $4 million in annual food and beverage. Seafood accounts for nearly 50% of total F&B sales, Smith says.

The club’s sushi program officially launched in 2020 due to growing member demand.

“A lot of our members were going out for sushi when they left the property,” Smith says. “I spent a lot of time talking to members, getting their feedback one on one, and sushi was the one thing that kept coming up.”

Today, the menu at Hideaway’s Sunset Lounge changes every three weeks in-season and about every four weeks during the summer.

“Our spicy tuna roll is always going to be the best-seller, but we try to think outside of the box when doing sushi features and new items,” Smith says. “We try not to have the same sushi that you can run right down the street and get at a regular restaurant.”

Menu standouts include a blue crab roll with smoked Japanese mayonnaise and asparagus, topped with fried calamari. “That was a huge seller,” notes Smith. “We’ve done a [roll with] seared tuna and green 10 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2024

32-34_Food_0924_V7_IG.indd 34

apple; we’ve done a coconut shrimp roll with local mangoes.”

Some of Hideaway Beach Club’s product comes directly from Japan; other items are local.

“Top quality is always the first priority.

We want to make sure we’re able to serve the best product at the best price to our members,” Smith says. “It’s nice having quite a few seafood companies to choose from [in this region].”

Smith honed his own sushi skills when he worked for Marriot. Today, to maintain his staff’s skills, he hosts a regular sushi bootcamp of sorts.

He’s also planning to host a traditional Japanese sushi chef to provide additional education for his team.

Sushi can be a daunting segment of foodservice, particularly for club chefs without specific training. Whether or not a club has a sushi bar, or the budget for a dedicated sushi chef (or 15), an executive club chef must first familiarize themselves with the craft.

“The first thing I would recommend is that the chef knows what they’re doing before jumping into it,” advises Smith. “If a chef’s not comfortable with sushi, they’re never going to be able to get the staff comfortable with it.”

A SENSE OF URGENCY At Ocean Reef, Andreu sources fresh fish daily, some from local waters and others directly from Japan.

The Islander’s menu is updated about three times a year. The most popular roll, named Melanie, predates Andreu and features tempura shrimp, spicy tuna, avocado, sweet soy, spicy

aioli and tempura flakes.

“It has been here forever; it’s the No. 1 seller,” says Andreu. “And that’s the roll I did for Tiger Woods [at the Masters Club Dinner at Augusta National Golf Club in 2020].”

Other Islander signature rolls include the Florida Keys roll (pictured on pg.

32), featuring lobster tempura, snow crab, avocado, cucumber, artisan lettuce, masago, sweet soy, spicy aioli, mojo aioli, and tempura flakes. Another favorite is the Gaucho, with tempura shrimp, filet mignon, asparagus, avocado, baby heirloom tomatoes, and Japanese chimichurri.

This summer, Andreu introduced seven different rolls named after club members, featured as ‘Member Favorites’ on the menu. There’s also a section called “Chef Eric’s Creations.”

Past dishes include the Wahoo Crudo, with Wahoo, scallions, jalapeño, crispy shallots, white truffle soy, orange, and yuzu. Another standout is the Japanese Chirashi, featuring bluefin tuna, toro, uni, masago, ikura, and fresh wasabi.

No matter the menu, Andreu believes a sense of urgency, precision, and commitment to the craft are keys to successful sushi.

“If you’ve seen the documentary ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi,’ [Jiro Ono] has been doing sushi for 75 years, and he says he still hasn’t perfected it—so I’m trying to reach a goal that might be impossible,” Andreu says. Still, it’s the driving force behind Ocean Reef’s sushi program. “You have to have passion,” he adds. “If you don’t have passion, it’s not for you.” C+RC www.clubandresortchef.com

8/27/24 12:42 PM

Onda

Catalog

CRB_JULY24.indd 28

6/24/24 7:54 AM

BANQUET

GOING Club chefs are doing their part to protect the planet by reducing food waste and sourcing locally.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

IT’S HOT IN THE KITCHEN—and not just because of the equipment.

Climate change is taking its toll on the environment, driven by greenhouse gas emissions from the transportation, production, and consumption of food. To help reduce their carbon footprints, club culinary operations are implementing strategies to tackle this crisis head-on. From relying on reusable packaging and composting to in-house gardens and more plantbased ingredients, putting these practices in place will allow for a more sustainable future.

REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE Plastic utensils and Styrofoam containers, once banquet table staples for golf luncheons and member barbecues, are slowly phasing out of party setups. At Musket Ridge Golf Club in Myersville, Md., where Executive Chef Kyle Roberson heads up operations, plateware and silverware are largely reusable. “I switched out our main large container that we used a 12 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2024

36-38_Banquet_0924_V3_JD-F.indd 36

lot over 5-6 years ago from Styrofoam to a more sustainable biodegradable container,” he says.

At Hendersonville (N.C.) Country Club, plastic and Styrofoam containers were replaced with biodegradable supplies seven years ago when Executive Chef Steve Boeger joined the kitchen team. He believes this decision is helping to reduce the club’s carbon footprint and thinks that education is a great motivator. “I like to remind our staff that even a step in the right direction can make an impact,” he says. “When they are aware of the impact they are placing on the environment, they seem to get on board. I was always amazed that this idea wasn’t thought about by many until they were taught.”

Supportive communities that promote waste reduction are also influential at the club level. Green Hills Country Club in Millbrae, Calif., has implemented reusable service items for all in-house dining, with garbage, compost and single-stream sorting

stations set up for staff, members and guests. “I have found California to be highly conscientious and accommodating on these efforts,” notes Executive Chef John Reynolds, CCE. FROM SEED TO SOIL Cultivating local ingredients on-site requires time and consistent dedication, but the payoff yields fresh produce with homegrown flavor. Boeger grows herbs at Hendersonville every year and credits his green thumb to his previous job, where a 10-acre organic garden serviced the restaurant. Fresh basil and mint are incorporated into a summer salad of burrata and fresh watermelon, as well as in a peanut fried rice dish with duck and a fig BBQ glaze. “I have bought basil from produce companies for years, and after a day, it doesn’t come close to fresh clipped minutes before the dishes go out to our members,” he says.

Green Hills recently planted a small herb and vegetable garden and utilized it for summer kids’ camp www.clubandresortchef.com

8/26/24 3:06 PM

programming—a concept Reynolds has introduced to multiple clubs over his career. “I am a firm believer and teacher that kids who grow vegetables eat vegetables,” he says, with an eye toward future health-conscious consumers. Homegrown summer squash, kale, tomatoes and herbs also have a place on Green Hills’ seasonal vegetable sauté.

Scraps of food that go uneaten represent an opportunity for clubs to repurpose them via composting.

At Green Hills, under local and state requirements that stipulate an organics recycling program, front-of-house collection bins enable proper materials sorting. Meanwhile, Musket Ridge takes composting into its own hands with a zero-food-waste initiative, which began in 2011. Roberson and his staff depend on the Bokashi method, a Japanese-originated fermentation process that uses microorganisms to break down food waste. “This method allows items such as proteins and dairy products to be composted, unlike a traditional composting method,” he explains. Full composting bins in the kitchen are retrieved by the grounds maintenance crew and transported to a designated compost site where they are covered. Left alone, the waste then turns into a rich, organic fertilizer that the crew uses on different parts of the property. According to Roberson, this process enables the club to keep up to four tons of food waste out of landfills every year.

FROM LAND TO SEA Meatless meals have become a menu fixture for a la carte dishes, as well as special events, where vegan and vegetarian requests are more frequent. Not only does this allow chefs www.clubandresortchef.com

36-38_Banquet_0924_V3_JD-F.indd 37

Executive Chef Steve Boeger (right) grows his own herbs at Hendersonville CC. Fresh basil and mint are used in dishes like his burrata and watermelon summer salad (above), as well as in a peanut fried rice dish with duck and a fig BBQ glaze.

to experiment with new flavors, but their focus on plant-based ingredients helps reduce carbon emissions.

Musket Ridge features a tofu pad Thai dish—the only plant-based item on its banquet men—but Roberson is able to incorporate other dishes as desired. (The club grill’s a la carte menu includes a plant-based burger as the result of one of its regular golfers.)

At Hendersonville Country Club, Boeger counts 43 dishes that can be prepared vegetarian. He also includes two vegan entrees that are menu mainstays: a vegan rice bowl and a

Brussels sprouts side dish prepared with a plant-based mayonnaise, pickled red onion and a drunken honey (made with bourbon, sugar and xanthan gum used as a thickening agent to resemble honey).

Green Hills’ banquet menu is wellstocked with plant-based options, and Reynolds can prepare plant-based, center-of-the-plate replacements for meat and seafood upon request. “I have designed menus like this for over 20 years, but I have found a particularly receptive and appreciative member base at GHCC,” he says.

September 2024 l Club + Resort Chef l 13

8/26/24 3:06 PM

BANQUET

Green Hills CC Executive Chef John Reynolds studied marine biology in university, which impacts his seafood choices to this day.

Specialties include vegan mushroom Wellington, ratatouille strata, vegan vegetable risotto and roasted butternut squash steaks.

Seafood represents another opportunity for chefs to make more sustainable choices. Boeger follows the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list for purchasing guidance and maintains relationships with fishermen in the Outer Banks, N.C., area, along with Triar Seafood Co. of Hollywood, Fla., and Trout Farms in western North Carolina.

Reynolds has a vested interest in sustainable seafood, having studied marine biology at the University of California, Santa Barbara. “I have been using quality farmed salmon since the late 1990s in New York [where

he spent the bulk of his private club career],” he says. Reynolds began with Faroe Island Salmon, then switched to Skuna Bay Salmon after returning to California. “Both employ flotillas of moving pens in pristine waters and the highest quality of natural feed,” he notes. “These controlled variables make for a well-exercised, healthy living and well-fed fish that yields highquality and consistent product that I

As part of the club’s zero-food-waste initiative, Musket Ridge GC Executive Chef Kyle Roberson and team utilize the Bokashi fermentation process to compost food scraps.

14 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2022

36-38_Banquet_0924_V3_JD-F.indd 38

am proud to feature on our menus.”

Reynolds uses Santa Monica Seafood as his primary seafood purveyor and features White Central American Farmed Shrimp and scallops that are FMA- and Atlantic Scallop Management Plan-approved. (And when menu planning calls for sustainable, organic meats, he relies on Allen Bros/Chef’s Warehouse and Golden Gate Meat Company, which works with small, family-owned farms that focus on grass-fed, humanely raised animals.)

AN EYE TO THE FUTURE Looking ahead, chefs can consider other ways to practice more sustainable sourcing. When planning 2025 budgets, culinary managers might consider equipment upgrades that minimize power consumption and offer cost-savings benefits.

For instance, investing in energyefficient appliances decreases water usage and reduces electric bills. This past spring, when Musket Ridge’s walk-in freezer required a complete overhaul, the machine was replaced with a more energy-efficient model.

While neither Hendersonville nor Green Hills are due for a kitchen renovation, Boeger and Reynolds plan to investigate more energy-efficient appliances in the future. C+RC www.clubandresortchef.com

8/26/24 3:06 PM

CRB_JUNE24.indd 7

5/23/24 10:28 AM

BEHIND THE BURNERS

Balancing t Chefs Andrew Wisnionski and Geoffrey Lanez share their experiences managing stress, leading teams, and driving innovation in the kitchen.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-in-Chief

IN THIS DIALOGUE, ANDREW Wisnionski, Executive Chef of The Country Club at Castle Pines (Castle Rock, Colo.), and Geoffrey Lanez, MBA, CEC, Executive Chef of The Patterson Club (Fairfield, Conn.), dive into the realities of leading a club kitchen, discussing everything from managing stress and fostering team dynamics to implementing innovative practices and overcoming early-career challenges.

Their conversation reveals the highs and lows of their culinary journeys, offering insights into the strategies that have shaped their success.

Geoffrey Lanez (GL): Chef, it’s nice to finally meet you. I’m looking forward to asking you a few questions. First, how do you deal with stress?

Andrew Wisnionski (AW): My general manager taught me to vent up—to keep the stress away from my team and go to those above me who can help. I also talk with my mentors, who’ve helped me manage the stress.

GL: That’s great advice. I have a 30-minute commute every day, so I call my industry friends, before and after work, just to connect. As chefs, it’s easy to forget everyone outside of work.

This helps me manage stress and stay connected.

AW: Absolutely. So, what was one of the hardest challenges you faced as a chef in your first year?

Geoffrey Lanez, MBA, CEC, Executive Chef, The Patterson Club 16 l Club + Resort Chef l September 2024

40-41_C2C_0924_V5_JD-F.indd 40

GL: I came to the club at 28, and it was in disarray.

They wanted immediate changes. I was also on the culinary Olympic team at the time. I was used to high standards and execution, but the team had a different level of understanding. I tried to tackle everything at once, putting in 120 hours a week, and then COVID hit. I was able to step back and focus on the details I was missing.

AW: For me, one of the biggest challenges was growing within my company. I started as a sous chef and worked my way up to executive chef.

The hardest part was learning the financials. But it’s been a fun challenge, and I enjoy that kind of stuff.

GL: It wasn’t fun for me at all! I remember calling people on the team every day—my mentors, my coaches— and I was exhausted. Juggling that commitment along with a new job was overwhelming. I don’t miss it, but it did help me become who I am today— which leads to my next question: For those entering the industry, what advice would you give them?

AW: My advice to new cooks is to seek out mentors who connect with you and invest in your growth. Find someone who is approachable, willing to listen, and genuinely interested in your development. I always tell my new cooks that I’m here for them and that I want to work side by side with them. We’re a learning and training kitchen, and we approach struggles by acknowledging that we’re human. It’s okay to feel how you’re feeling. You don’t have to have all the answers, but you do have to manage the stress so it doesn’t overwhelm you. I make sure they know that we can fix whatever is broken together. And then we grow from there. www.clubandresortchef.com

8/27/24 11:25 AM

g the Heat GL: That open-door policy really helps.

In the past, I used to be afraid to ask for time off or help, but having that relationship with your team makes a big difference.

AW: Absolutely. So, what was one of the most innovative things you’ve done as a chef in your first year?

GL: Bringing a fabrication program to our club was huge. We were bringing in whole fish and primal cuts, and I showed the team how to fabricate.

Everyone got so excited, talking about it to the membership and explaining the process. That was a big moment.

AW: For me, one of the biggest things was just showing face—being the “celebrity chef” and walking around the dining room. The membership didn’t really know the chef before, so building that one-on-one bond was innovative. Another thing was creating a platform to handle big events more efficiently, which has been a huge help for our operation.

GL: That’s really cool. What’s something you did early in your culinary years that still haunts you but makes you laugh to this day?

AW: I asked my chef if he wanted the broccoli on the pan to look nice and even. He sarcastically said, “No, I want it to look bad and roast it poorly.” It was funny, but I learned a lesson from it. Now, when my cooks www.clubandresortchef.com

40-41_C2C_0924_V5_JD-F.indd 41

ask me similar questions, it takes me back to that moment.

GL: They still make fun of me for burning mushroom stock during my internship. I forgot about it, and when the chef found it, he asked, “How do you burn water?” Now, I stress the importance of setting timers with my team. It was a humbling moment.

AW: I have a similar story. One of our cooks drained a 48hour stock right into the floor drain—wasted every drop. We had to go over the importance of inspecting before acting. It’s funny in hindsight, but it was a hard lesson.

GL: How do you balance your time with your sous chefs’ to ensure both you and they have work-life balance?

AW: I meet with my sous chefs at least once a day, whether for 10-15 minutes or longer. We talk about how they’re doing, what we need for the day, and any struggles we might face. I check in with them several times a day, and it helps us stay connected and set expectations. I like to empower my sous chefs, and we discuss decisions after service to learn and grow together.

Andrew Wisnionski, Executive Chef, The Country Club at Castle Pines

GL: We have daily and weekly meetings, and I recently created a “chef’s agenda” where we gather the management team to discuss what’s going on in the kitchen. We also talk about how we can ensure everyone gets their time off. It’s all about setting them up for success.

AW: That’s great. Having that relationship with your team is crucial.

We spend so much time at work, so it’s important to push for that ownership and not bother them unless it’s an emergency when they’re off. C+RC September 2024 l Club + Resort Chef l 17

8/27/24 11:25 AM

PRODUCT SHOWCASE

Outdoor Furniture Outdoor Occasion

Product: Dining Furniture Features: ▶ Centerpieces and decorations are designed to catch the eye—give them the perfect foundation with dining tables handcrafted by Landmark Golf Course Products ▶ Available in a variety of sizes and styles, our tables are made from sturdy and luxurious Rinowood, a dense material that’s highly durable and weather resistant ▶ Whether it’s for an indoor area or an outdoor patio, our furnishings can help you set the table for a great meal ▶ Get in touch with your Landmark rep today to discuss your dining area needs as well as customization options

Landmark Golf Course Products Rinowood.com 1-888-337-7677

Comfortable Seating

Product: Cabana Club Rope Modular Collection Features: ▶ Modular seating allows for different arrangements tailored to your space ▶ Sleek geometric lines elevated with textured rope detailing ▶ Ultimate comfort with the plush cushions on every piece ▶ Constructed with aluminum frames that are built to last ▶ Customize with our selection of exclusive powder coat finishes and all-weather fabrics

Sprucing Up Space

Product: Arc Lounge Chair, Arc Swivel Chair Features: ▶ Crafted with attention to detail, Arc embodies the essence of modern craftsmanship ▶ Arc’s cushions and durable materials are designed to withstand the elements and transform your space into a sanctuary

O.W. Lee Inc. Co. www.owlee.com

Tropitone

tropitone.com

Tables & Chairs Promoting Community

Product: Communal Tables by MTS Seating Features: ▶ MTS provides standard and custom tables for communal gathering spaces, such as hotels, restaurants, bars, and lobby lounges ▶ Flexibility in product, price, and ease of specification ▶ Custom capabilities built in ▶ Provides six different base designs ▶ Provides three standard heights at 42 inches, 36 inches, and 30 inches ▶ Provides seven standard top options and optional decorative end panels ▶ Live edge or engineered live edge wood tops, custom table dimensions, decorative elements, or integrated power solutions available

MTS Seating

mtsseating.com 18 l Club + Resort Business l September 2024

42_PROD0924v5PK.indd 42

ADVERTISER INDEX CORBY HALL

11

FIRE WITHIN 888-240-9758 / www.firewithin.com

15

THE MONTAGUE COMPANY 800-345-1830 www.montaguecompany.com

20

SOUTHERN PRIDE www.southernpride.com

19

https://corbyhall.com

www.clubandresortbusiness.com

9/15/24 8:07 PM

DESIGNATED SMOKING AREA Being a third generation, family-owned and operated business is something we take seriously. We are proud to offer a full line of Electric, Gas or Mobile lines of equipment to fit your individual needs. Our equipment is designed with the highest quality materials and components ensuring a long life, giving you unmatched performance with every use. The ease of use with any Southern Pride and the consistent heat are just a few of the reasons we’ve been able to build the customer base we have today. We proudly offer a network of distributors making your partnership with Southern Pride easy and rewarding. Visit us online at southernpride.com today!

MADE WITH PRIDE IN THE USA

Alamo, Tennessee | southernpride.com

CRB_MAY24.indd 43

4/23/24 12:06 PM

ISland Suites Precison and style Tailored to you.

Start designing your dreams today. www.montaguecompany.com

CRB_SEPT24.indd 44

8/20/24 1:13 PM