PHOTO Issue '22/'23 | WSSM Womens Surf Style Magazine (Part 2 of 4)

TEXAS NIGHTS F CJ Shirt: “Texas Nights” graphic tee by Vintage Havana (vintagehavana.com) Sunglasses: “Fly Boy” by Peppers Polarized Eyeware (peppersusa.com) JEWELRY BY DUNE Stunning “Deco Pendant Necklace”, “Marina Bracelet”, and “Boho Stack Ring” by Dune (dunejewelry.com) Leather Cuff: Triple wrap leather cuff by Caroline Rocha (carolinerocha.com)

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Group photos are hard to get, especially when the sets just keep sweeping through the lineup and taking you out. It’s always a good laugh trying to coordinate one of these, and the aftermath is equally comical, as everyone scratches to safely get away from eachother and for that first catchabe wave. The 2021 WSSM Panama crew from left to right: Sunshine, Tom, Pat, Dan, Sandra, Vanessa, Olivia & Fernanda.

Thank you to our retreat sponsors for their awesome support!

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Photos by Gabeto Fernandez

Some places in the world are simply magical, and pacific panama is just that. pure magic. it’s landscape is lush and mountainous, covered in thick jungle foliage, and complemented by endless palm trees that sway high above in the breezes.

There are black sand beaches that offer you sand dollars the size of your hand, vibrant orange and purple crabs that roam freely about, and picturesque islands that dot the horizon of the deep blue ocean in all directions.

These distant islands are a constant reminder that you’re at land’s edge, engulfed in a sensory overload of untouched nature, amidst a calmness and tranquility that is felt to your very core.

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W

hen it comes to Panama, for a lot of explorers with limited vacation time, it’s tempting to just hit the hotspots that are easily found on the internet, saving true exploration for another day. So most surfers, if they’ve been to Panama, they’ve been to Bocas del Toro, which is located on the Caribbean side. While it has its own charm for sure, there’s a stillness and remoteness, a spirit of adventure and barely discovered waves that only the rugged Pacific shores can offer.

Our time on earth is limited, so with each passing year, I encourage you to go where most will never dare, to explore the unknown, and to seek out adventures that will reward your soul in immeasurable ways.

The Morro Negrito area in the Gulf of Chiriqui in Panama is such a place. A private island surrounded by empty waves. It’s the perfect place to fully immerse yourself in a dreamy, tropical, and isolated wave paradise. It was also the perfect location for our WSSM Pacific Panama Surf Retreat.

Having researched Surfer Paradise Surf Camp while on our “Searching For More in Pacific Panama” 10 day whirlwind of a surf trip along the Pacific coast back in 2019, we knew what to expect and that it would be rugged. We also knew that based on past experiences here, this area is also epic for wave junkies like us. We were so ready to share this amazing part of the world with other adventurous souls.

(To read about our adventures along Panama’s Pacific coast, while searching for a 2020 surf retreat location, see page 100)

One of our sponsors for this retreat, was a wssm trusted surf brand, SlipIns. Each girl received a pair of “surf legs” and a “surf suit” (as seen here), which was an incredible gift for them considering our long hours spent under the intense panamanian sun. As you can see, who needs charlie’s angels, when you have the panam angels!

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

TOP: nothing beats arriving by boat to all of the surf breaks MIDDLE: waiting for the sets BOTTOM: the boat launch area, for when the tide is too low to return to camp by boat

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These three cabanas are located closest to the ocean. There are six more cabanas available hillside, with amazing ocean views and cool breezes.

All aboard the surf shuttle!

Dan grabs a cup of coffee in the open air lounge, while taking in the view.

Just grab your favorite hammock and watch the tides change at your feet.

Camp owner, Steve & little Stevie

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Leaving puerto yurre after traveling all night

Gabeto cools off on the beach

Each morning at sunrise, armed with fresh fruit, simple sandwiches, drinks, chips, granola bars, and gallons of fresh spring water, we would walk across the big sandy bay to the waiting beach buggy surf shuttle on the other side. with the changing of the tides, this big sandy bay empties out and then refills, so sometimes you have front-door drop off in the boats, and other times you’ll have to take the buggy surf shuttle back to camp, which is a fun experience in itself.

Simple accommodations overlooking the ocean

Making memories is priceless

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As you can imagine, 2020 didn’t turn out the way we thought it would, but not to be deterred, after a year-long delay, multiple plane ticket cancellations and reschedulings, increased security and ongoing testing, we finally did it.

In early June of 2021, nine dedicated and brave souls were successfully united together in Panama City, Panama, around one common goal; To surf as many waves as possible, in one of the most beautiful and remote places in the world.

Fernanda, Vanessa, Sunshine, Olivia & Kristina, Dan, Gabeto (photographer), Tom, Pat and myself were all officially on board the party bus (a private 30 passenger shuttle bus we rented) and were headed to the coast that was six hours away. After all the plane rides, buses, and boat rides through the mangroves, we finally arrived at Surfer Paradise Surf Camp, excited for the adventurous week ahead.

I know I’ll never forget the epic week we all enjoyed together in Chiriqui. Surfing till we couldn’t paddle anymore, and catching more waves than should be legal. What made it so special was the non-existent crowds.

We were our own In early june of 2021, nine dedicated crowd actually!

and brave souls successfully arrived in panama city, panama, united around one common goal; To surf as many waves as possible, in one of the most beautiful and remote places in the world.

Each morning at sunrise, armed with fresh fruit, simple sandwiches, drinks, chips, granola bars, and gallons of fresh spring water, we would walk across the big sandy bay to the waiting beach buggy surf shuttle on the other side. With the changing of the tides, this big sandy bay empties out and then refills, so sometimes you have front-door drop off in the boats, and other times you’ll have to take the buggy surf shuttle back to camp, which is a fun experience in itself.

After loading up the boards, bags and surfers, we were off! Even with our crew of only nine, running two boats each day made it easier to satisfy the early risers, while the rest of us grabbed a more leisurely morning breakfast.

When the swell was big enough our adventure usually started with a surf check at Leftovers (a 45 minute boat ride away) in hopes that this bigger, point break style wave would continued on page 78...

Christian, surfing the rivermouth in front of camp. Both a former guest of SPSC and an artist, she brought her supplies with her so that she could give an art class to the kids on the other island, as she had done on previous trips. She’s awesome!

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Fernanda, dropping in at Leftovers Fernanda, with her eyes on the prize at Snickers

Leftovers

Surfer paradise surf camp cabanas By majority vote, fernanda was voted “winner of the WSSM trophy” on our last night in panama, and took the custom painted bamboo vase home with her.

She had earned the group’s respect as someone who had showcased pure stoke all week, had absolutely charged it, and always had such a positive and upbeat attitude, even in these rugged jungle conditions.

She had earned it, and we all had enjoyed her energy and fresh spirit.

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The crew heading in to shore to pick up Gabeto

Getting dropped off at leftovers

Sandra, Vanessa, Olivia, & Fernanda

Dan Olson making the most of his time in panama. enjoying a set at leftovers as tom paddles back out (top right & bottom right),

and a picturesque session at snickers (right)

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

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Olivia & Kristina at Emily’s Kristina (right) was new to surfing, so Emily’s was the perfect break to improve her skills while having a blast... And nothing beats surfing with your best friend at an empty break!

Kristina, ready for another day of adventure in paradise

Kristina, practicing her cross-stepping already up in the front as usual, sandra, tom & kristina

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Kristina enjoying Emily’s

Surf girl moments

Never before has this had more meaning... “the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun!”

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... continued from page 72

be working. At times you’ll spot beautiful dolphins along the way, making it a memorable experience with or without waves on the other end.

On smaller days, we’d usually spot the rest of our crew enjoying themselves at Emily’s or Snickers, and end up joining them there.

That’s the beauty of this area. You can pick and choose amongst 10 different waves, depending on your groups skill level and determination for that day.

While we were lucky to play in the water for hours, laughing and sharing waves, Gabeto Fernandez, our favorite WSSM photographer, also spent long hours in the sun photographing all our fun. Unless he was shooting from the boat, he often had to walk 45 minutes down the black sand beach to Snickers, shoot, and then walk back and join us for the boat ride back to camp. Thanks Gabeto! You’re such a champ!

After a huge dinner each night, we would enjoy a few minutes together in the lounge area to discuss the surf conditions and game plan for the next day, and then give away the WSSM trophy. The WSSM trophy (on this trip) was a hand painted (by Sandra) bamboo vase of a beautiful wave under a big, fat moon.

On the first night, it’s given to someone for a specific reason. In this case, Pat Williams, who had caught the very first “outside set wave” of the trip.

After signing it and then keeping it in his cabin for 24 hours, he then gave it away the next night to someone else in the group, for whatever reason he wanted.

They then signed it and passed it on the next evening, and so on, until our last night. That last evening, we all voted who should receive the trophy and take it home with them. You could nominate anyone for ANY reason at all, but you just couldn’t vote for yourself. Although it had rotated through everyone in the group

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Olivia, living an epic moment at Leftovers Surf suit by SlipIns

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for a variety of different reasons, by majority vote, Fernanda was voted “Winner of the WSSM Trophy” on our last night in Panama, and she took home the custom painted bamboo vase. She had earned the group’s respect as someone who had showcased pure stoke all week, had absolutely charged it, and always had such a positive and upbeat attitude, even in these rugged jungle conditions. She had earned it, and we all had enjoyed her energy and fresh spirit.

After double sessions every day, most of us were too tired to do more than go relax in our private cabins after dark, and listen to the jungle come alive. What a view!

Overlooking the camp and ocean, for each of us our simple, private cabins were a fantastic getaway. A place to think, pray, dream and sleep. Panama is so perfect for soul searching. It’s a place to truly unplug, relax, and get in touch with oneself.

Occasionally laughter from the open air lounge area below would ring out through the night, as the rest of our crew enjoyed games and good times below before calling it a night. But, at the crack of dawn, the generator would kick in, signaling the early start to another fantastic day in this surfers paradise.

Boat rides, waves, food, sunshine, napping and beachcombing... The days flew by too quickly. After seven solid days of sun, surf, food and stoke, it was time to leave. The surf report warned us of an incoming wild and windy storm that was predicted for the day of our planned departure. Knowing access to the private island of Surfer Paradise Surf Camp is tide dependant, we decided to leave on the earlier high tide, at 4am-- in the dead of night. The water would be calmer, though it wasn’t predicted to be smooth, and with no water safety or emergency services available anywhere around, everyone’s safety was our #1 priority.

We said goodbye to the awesome SPSC crew and loaded up the luggage and board bags. Everyone donned a life vest, and our boat captains gave those of us who’d chosen to sit at the front of the boat, a few small solar lanterns to light the way.

These captains grew up in the area, so they knew these waters like the back of their hand. Navigating them, even at night, was easy for these experienced watermen.

Under a thick blanket of sparkling stars we sped effortlessly through the night, weaving our way through the open ocean and then into the labrynth of mangroves. Marveling at the show the night sky was putting on above us, we entered the mangroves the depths below began to light up with bioluminescence around us. Captivated by it’s beauty, we trailed our hands in the water, leaving a glowing trail of magic in our wake. What a magical place.

Not every wave goes as planned, but sunshine can make even a wipeout look amazing!

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Sunshine, in her groove at Leftovers

Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Hello from Snickers

The girls hanging out between sets “For those of you that remember the awesome womens surf magazine from the early 2000’s called “Surf Life for Women”...

Meet the publisher, Sunshine Makarow!

Having been online friends for over a decade; both of us publishers in the womens print surfing world, to get to finally share waves with this legendary woman was a real honor.

Sunshine, i truly miss your magazine. thank you for all the hard work, time & effort you put into it, blazing the trail for others to follow, myself included.”

- Sandra | wssm Surf Suit and Sea Legs by SlipIns (slipins.com)

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“There are only a few places in the world that make my heart skip a beat when i think about them. leftovers is one of those places. there’s magic here.”

- Sandra olson | wssm Springsuit in Pipeline Pink, by SlipIns (slipins.com)

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Being a part of such magnificence, I couldn’t help but thank God for His safety for our crew, and marvel at the magical night sky we were all so blessed to be under. “How do we find ourselves in these places?” I wondered. “Because God is good, and we were all determined to MAKE this trip happen, no matter what.”

Life advice? Don’t let life scare you into solitude or into a rut. Get out there and experience YOUR life.

May I suggest Surfer Paradise Surf Camp?

How to get there

Around Surfer Paradise Surf Camp island, other than the camp and the pool up on the hill overlooking the ocean, there are no houses, buildings or ANYTHING man-made in sight. Once you’re actually there, you realize you’re now in a place that most people in the world will never get to experience. Isolated, free, and boasting 10 different surf breaks for all levels of surfing within a 10-45 minute boat ride. This area in the Gulf of Chiriqui is a hard core surfers dream destination. Here, it’s easy to unwind, relax, and forget that the rest of the world exists for seven marvelous days!

Surfer Paradise Surf Camp is however, located in a semi-difficult to access and remote area. You have three ways to get there.

OPTION A) If on a budget, the journey there requires a 20 minute taxi ride to Albrook, the main (and busy) bus terminal in Panama City, then a 6 hour bus ride to Guabala, where you are then met by the camp’s driver.

From Guabala, it’s 25 minutes by van to Puerto Yurre, Quebrada de Piedra, Panama, a private boat launch for the camp. Here you’ll need to wait for the tide to fill in high enough to launch the boat, but don’t worry, they have hammocks and a rest room where you can relax and freshen up while you wait.

Then it’s another 40 minute boat ride navigating through endless mangroves, islands, and open ocean until finally you arrive at your destination.

It’s a trek! But that’s all part of the adventure, and you’ll get to see a lot fo Panama along the way!

OPTION B) You can also hire a private driver from Panama City, one that comes recommended by the camp’s owner, Steve, to safely transport you.

But, it’s not cheap and can run you hundreds of dollars each way. Split that amongst a big group though, and it becomes much more affordable and offers a more flexible schedule also. Just remember, Panama is not the place to just wing it

and grab a random driver or taxi. Safety first! This private driver would then take you from Panama City, directly to Puerto Yurre, where you then wait for the right tide conditions to leave for camp, by boat.

OPTION C) Lastly, you could also fly into David, the closest city with a decent sized airport, and only 2-3 hours away. Great flight options into this airport can usually be found, just be sure to check the size of boardbags they allow during certain times of the year, as sometimes there are embargoes. While there are good surfboard rentals available at Surfer Paradise Surf Camp, it’s ALWAYS nice to ride your own board.

Accommodations

Surfer Paradise Surf Camp is capable of hosting up to 20 surfers on its own private island.

You’ll find no frills, simple, oceanview cabanas that sleep 2-3 people per cabana. Bathrooms and showers are separate, but located nearby.

Offering a great view and a cool breeze, mosquito nets keep you comfortable at night, and there are fans in each of the rooms. Depending on what time of year you go, the rain on the tin roof will lull you to sleep at night- making it a unique and memorable experience.

There is fresh spring water for drinking and showering, but no hot water, so it’s best to leave the divas at home or for another surf trip. It’s rustic at SPSC- but comfortable, and you really do have everything you need.

There is a spacious oceanfront dining and lounge area near the beach for eating and visiting. In the evenings, it’s fun to gather around the large wooden dining table and swap surf stories from the day. Recently added additional couches, hammocks and lounge chairs make daytime napping a pleasurable necessity as the tides ebb and flow at your feet throughout the day- just steps away.

You’ll enjoy 3 delicious meals a day, including lots of fresh fruit- most of which are locally grown on the island, as well as vegetables, rice, pasta, chicken and freshly caught fish, just to name a few. Vegetarian diets can also be accommodated with a little bit of notice.

Electricity is available in the evening for a few hours when they start up the generator, and the internet can be accessed best through a local SIM card (Mas Movil gets the best reception on the island, although it’s not great).

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Watching us girls further down the beach & wondering if they were missing waves. They were.

The sunset from Surfer Paradise Surf Camp Pat Williams at Snickers

Tom at Leftovers

(brothers) Pat & Tom at Snickers

“Growing up, i would listen to stories of my uncles, tom & pat williams. stories of their many adventures through desolate california and mexico in the late 70’s and early 80’s, of weeks spent on the road with barely a map or decent road to follow. they surfed unknown breaks with hidden hazards, ate strange blue fish, and even camped out on “the farmers land” right there at puerto escondido, mexico.

They’d bring cans of food and enough water to make it to the next town, hopefully. auto repairs? done on the side of the road with whatever they had. True pioneers of surfing and lifelong texas surfers... to be able to share this beautiful surfing paradise with them was priceless for me!”

- Sandra olson | wssm

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Tom Wiliams at Leftovers

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Vanessa Kohler at Snickers Vanessa, enjoying another fun wave at Leftovers

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Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Need more power? Pack a solar powered cell phone charger and purchase a local data plan from your service provider, and you’ll be able to stay somewhat in contact with the rest of the world without much interruption.

Maybe.

It’s suggested to have your phone unlocked while in Panama (ask your carrier to unlock it), then, buy a sim card (Mas Movil) at the bus station (not the airport, they’re way overpriced) where you can get them from $2-10. That will give you texting, data, and the best possible reception available on the island.

That being said though, it’s best to really just unplug and enjoy the natural setting that surrounds you, leaving the electronics and social media at home.

Or at least until you’re back on the mainland.

THE WAVES

Sandbar & Rivermouth Located directly in front of the camp, the sandbar and rivermouth almost always offers a surfable wave when the swell is smaller.

And when it’s on, it’s pretty sweet! On such days, Steve (owner) says “there are A frame peaks going left and right that will leave your arms feeling like the spaghetti you ate last night, and your jaws will hurt from smiling so much”.

The Point (Sighhhhhhhh) This is where I caught my first barrel.

Heavy, heaving, and laden with great barrels, this spot requires commitment and dedication down the line. One

small hesitation, and you’ll find yourself standing in thigh-high water on top of large boulders, looking out to sea at giant walls of whitewater rushing towards you. With the steep cliff behind you, escape is dicey at best. Not a break for beginners or those looking for a cushy wave. If there are adrenaline junkies in your group- this is the wave they’ll want to surf.

Emily’s is a short boat ride away from the SPSC, and fires non-stop in front of Steve and his ex-partners camp location (Morro Negrito - now closed according to the locals). It’s rocky shoreline is rugged, and navigating it is tricky if you’re coming from shore. But, since you’re arriving by boat, your feet need never touch the shore.

This fun point break peels left quite nicely, and while it can’t handle BIG swell like some of the other waves nearby, it can be a fun and consistent way to get your water therapy. Watch out for the shallow spots!

never failing in her love for the ocean. Vanessa’s cleaning up Snickers!

Elijas Named after the son of the man who lived further down the beach from the old camp (yep, that’s how remote it is

here, you can name a break after your son), and an 8 minute paddle from Emily’s, Elijas is a gentle, sandy bottom beach break that empties into a small bay, that also doubles as the boat launch for the old camp. You’ll find a tiny store on shore with a small assortment of drinks and snacks. You’re also supporting the locals by purchasing from them. Playful and consistent, Elijas is super fun on a medium tide, and when you get a bunch of friends all surfing it together

Moments of reflection at Leftovers

“WSSM has had the pleasure of surfing with vanessa in baja mexico, el salvador, puerto rico and now, panama. always a treat to have her on a surf trip with us. looking forward to the next time, chica!”

- Sandra olson | wssm

Part of the crew heading out for more adventure

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Rails & Tails

on all sizes of boards, good times are guaranteed! A great wave and favorite for beginners through intermediates.

Snickers Located a 1/2 mile down the beach from Elijas on the most beautiful stretch of black sand beach (there’s sand dollars on this beach!), Snickers offers a fun and playful beach break, with multiple peaks going both right and left. Gorgeous jungle and a thicket of palm trees lining the shore make it a spectacular view while surfing. Because it’s a beach break, it can’t handle big swells, but on waist to a little overhead, and on the right tide (trust your surf guide on this!) it’s PURE MAGIC! We had the most incredible 5 hour session at Snickers ten years ago, and I’ve been chasing that experience ever since at other beach breaks around the world, unfortunately, without success. Like I said, there’s magic in Panama.

Private cabins

sandra & dan olson

El Toro (The Bull) A dumpy, punchy, super fun beach break with some reef that offers mostly lefts and the occasional right. It lines up in a small bay, cozily located between gigantic rock formations that tower into the heavens. On smaller days this is a great choice for short, fun rides and playful surf. Get a big swell, and you’re in for a thumping.

Nestles BIG. INTENSE. BARRELS. Need I say more?

Located on the smallest of the nearby islands, this is one of two intense waves on this tiny island that are perfect for those seeking elevator-dropin, heaving barrels that will challenge the best of surfers. Breaking both left and right, all we can say is... Go get ‘em!

Surfer Paradise Surf camp

P Land Located between Nestles and Leftovers, this tantalizing left-hand point break can hold faces over 20’! Best ridden at mid-high tide, it’s powerful and consistent, making it a favorite for those looking to improve their big wave skills and who can handle the more-than-occasional beating on the inside. Best for intermediate to advanced surfers.

Leftovers A WSSM favorite for sure! This incredible left-hand point break wraps around a small island, and lies just east of P Land. Accessible only by boat and 45 minutes from camp, it’s best surfed on mid-high tide (low tide is scary). Whether you’re heading straight for the exit the entire ride, or candidly avoiding the shelf that ALMOST pops up when connecting all three sections correctly, this wave gets your heart pumping. The take-off zone spans quite a distance usually, giving the less adrenaline fueled surfer the opportunity to take off on a softer shoulder, further down the line. Overall, it’s big, beautiful and REALLY fun wave! Pack a lunch and extra water and hit it early before the winds turn on.

You’re not going to want to leave this wave.

Other Activities

You’ll likely be so worn out from the surf that the most you can usually do is just sit and unwind. However, if you’re tired, but not ready to sleep, there’s also diving, snorkeling, fishing, ocean kayaking, hiking the private island, yoga, beachcombing, ping pong, or just relaxing in a hammock. There is also a variety of wildlife including monkeys, the occasional sea turtle, many types of birds, parrots and even wild deer. But really, the waves are what you’re here for, and they’re in abundance! F

Learn More

Contact Steve at Surfer Paradise Surf Camp* so he can answer any questions you have, help you book a group, rent surfboards, and advise you on transportation. Steve loves Panama, his camp, and his guests, and is sure to go above and beyond when it comes to helping make your stay there, an enjoyable one. Go ahead, book your adventure with them today!

Website: www.surferparadise.com Email: Steve@surferparadise.com *NOT to be confused with Morro Negrito- the former location owned by Steve’s expartner on a different island. According to the locals and as of this writing, Morro Negrito Surf Camp is closed and has no plans of reopening.

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The “wssm angels” (and Dan)

When you’ve already surfed as much as you can & your guide says “let’s go surf the rivermouth at sunset, it’ll be fun”. dont go. rest up & save it for the next day. take it from someone who knows. lol. (tom’s hand gesture says it all)

Chiriquí, Panama 2021 Photos: GABETO FERNANDEZ | SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP | A WSSM SURF RETREAT

Surfer Paradise Surf camp

gotta love the wipeouts...

vanessa... olivia

... on such a good one, we had to include both pics sunshine

The crew at Leftovers

sandra

dan

fernanda

pat

Gabeto fernandez (photographer) and boat captain, irvin

Stoked to be here!

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Local Vibes . . . Canadian Surf Life

Women of the

Greats

by Aly Ambler

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F

or many ocean dwellers the concept of surfing on a freshwater lake is unfathomable, let alone in the dead of the Canadian winter. However, on the windiest and seemingly coldest of days those familiar neoprene clad bobbing heads can be seen within the waves of the Great Lakes.

The Great Lakes have a comparatively new surf scene but it is expanding quickly. Within that scene is a strong community of women that ban together to scratch that itch of waves that the ocean fosters. I have never felt more supported than I do when surfing with women on the Lakes. Many times I surf with women who I do not know and there is a great deal of bonding in the sometimes 4hr+ car rides or an unwavering support from strangers in the water.

I am not alone with these feelings, through discussion many women feel the same and cherish our time together. We are all out in a male dominated sport in normally unpleasant conditions, braving the cold and wind to do what we love. The encouragement for everyone in the lineup is like nothing I have experienced. Going out of one’s way to learn another surfers name and screaming it when they catch a wave is no special occurrence.

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Local Vibes . . . Canadian Surf Life

Women of the

Greats ... continued

This project is a step in representing more female surfers in the media, as there are VERY few female surfers that show up in the Great Lakes media outlets. However women are surfing and women are killing it out there!

I reached out to the community pages to let the women know when I’ll be out and if they would like to be part of the series. Many of the members reached out to me and I have tried to represent as many as possible.

Someone recently said to me, “We can’t always be what we can’t see” and that resonated with me.

Many female forerunners in history have been what they can’t see and it’s time we honored them and helped more women see what they thought they could not be. F

- Aly

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Ambler

Shazia

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Local Vibes

dune

A decade ago while attending the Surf Expo, an incredible new company caught our eye.

Dune Jewelry had created something truly unique-Beach sand jewelry!

Now, what is “beach sand jewelry” you might ask?

It’s jewelry that is custom created for you, that contains sand (or other earth elements) that you’ve collected from a specific location or that has sentimental value to you, that is forever encapsulated in a gorgeous sterling silver or gold setting.

Whether it’s sand from your favorite surf break, or perhaps from some exotic shore, cherished flowers from your wedding or graduation, your favorite golf course sand trap (guys!)…

The list of possibilities is endless.

But one thing we do know for sure, you will cherish it for years to come.

As Dune Jewelry & Co. grew and expanded over the years, we were excited to watch them develop more and more unique pieces, using a variety of earth elements, for all occasions and tastes.

They’ve maintained an impeccable reputation for high quality, personalized, “experiential jewelry” that makes gift giving both easy and memorable.

Learn more with us, as we sit down for a chat with Holly Daniels Christensen, the founder of Dune Jewelry & Co., about how she got started, what inspires her collections, and how they’ve grown and coped with unexpected obstacles over the years.

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JEWELRY & CO

An interview with founder Holly Daniels Christensen Years as a jewelry designer: 11 Hometown: Cape Cod, Massachusetts

Thanks for taking the time to chat with us, Holly! We have loved including your beautiful jewelry in our fashion section in WSSM, and have really enjoyed watching your brand grow and expand over the years. Congratulations on a full DECADE of success! You’re obviously a talented jewelry designer... Tell us how you discovered this passion?

HDC: Thank you so much for chatting with me!

I love you guys and I’m beyond grateful for all of your support over the years!

timately, she decided to continue with her home accents line and I launched Dune Jewelry in 2010, which has taken on a life of its own.

In the beginning I envisioned really clean, minimalistic designs that let the sand or earth element take the stage, but over time my customers have really opened my eyes to so many different aesthetics.

Now we have a wide variety of styles ranging from necklaces and bracelets for men and women, to earrings, rings, anklets and home accents such as ornaments, wine stoppers, and picture frames.

We have a very unique and diverse customer base which is one of my favorite things about the business!

I started playing with sand as an artistic medium when I was around 32. I grew up surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches in the world and my childhood best friend had a small business creating ornaments using What were some sand from our obstacles you local beaches on Photo: Samantha Robshaw Photography faced in the beCape Cod. I was helping her to ginning, and how grow that business when it struck me how did you overcome them? extraordinary the sand is from different HDC: I’m a high school dropout with an beaches around the world. It ranges from unconventional upbringing so my biggest bright white, to black, to pink, and everyobstacle in the beginning was simply selfthing in between. doubt. I knew I was creating a beautiful We took a jewelry making class together product; I knew I had the work ethic; I to learn how we could inlay sand and knew I had the passion, but I had no idea earth elements into a variety of metals. Ulhow to truly turn the idea into a business. I

had sheer will and determination to build a better life than what I had experienced as a child and all of that energy allowed me to put one foot in front of the other and make things happen.

At the end of the day, there is no new challenge under the sun. If you have a problem, there are people out there who have encountered the same type of problem and you can self-educate by learning how other people have persevered and found success. That’s what I did. Not to over simplify, but I figured it out.

I learned, I created, I accepted feedback and criticism, I made changes, I moved forward. Now I’m proud to say that we have a wonderful crew of artists here in Boston, Massachusetts that I love working with and my company ships over 80,000 custom designs every year all over the world.

That’s incredible! So, you started with beach sand jewelry, but have expanded to so many other mediums over the years. What other popular “earth elements” do you offer that readers can choose from to create their own unique and beautiful piece?

HDC: Yes! We started out in the beginning only using beach sand, but after the first year or so, we realized that our customers wanted to capture more than just beach memories. Over the years people have sent in pressed flowers from weddings and funerals, sand from golf bunkers, soil from the Appalachian Trail, crushed granite from the Rocky Mountains, coal recovered from the Titanic, shark teeth, baby chihuahua teeth, ashes... The list is endless!

We capture experiences in every single design that we create, which prompted me to trademark the term “Experiential Jewelry” because I thought it was important to create a term that made sense for what we do. Over the past 10 years we have collected over 5,000 sands and earth elements in our Sandbank and it grows almost daily from customers sending in elements from their own adventures. It’s quite an interactive experience.

There are other imitators out there, but

you are the ORIGINAL beach sand jewelry company. What makes Dune Jewelry & Co. especially unique?

HDC: That’s a great question. I would say that it’s our quality, our passion, and the love we have for our customers. We treat

HDC: Year over year, our best seller is the wave necklace, but most recently we’ve seen a lot of home accents being gifted. Our wave ornament and wave wine stopper were both huge winners for Mother’s Day, and RINGS have been on fire! Our Boho Ring is constantly selling out before we can replenish.

Obviously, 2020 was a year for the history books- a year that challenged and forced almost insurmountable changes for so many businesses. How did you cope with the loss of access to valuable trade shows, retail closures worldwide, and how was your brand strategy altered going forward?

HDC: This is such a great question. 2020 “The World Is Yours Bracelet”, “Marina Necklace”, “Gold Seahorse Ring” and was incredibly difficult.

“Veronica Stacker Rings” | Photo: Samantha Robshaw Photography We were on track to have the best year that everyone like they’re our sister or brother Dune had ever experienced, but when or mother or father. the pandemic forced all of our retail partThe Dune family is incredibly important to ners to close down, we lost over 75% of me. I never had a true family dynamic our revenue. It was just like a light switch when I was younger, so I’ve built my own. turned off and it was very, very scary.

Our Wave Makers (the Dune Fam) are Dune is a bootstrap brand. I funded the really special. They’re travel lovers and adbusiness by working in real estate for the venturers of all shapes, sizes, colors, and first three years to ensure that I wouldn’t ages and they love to explore themselves need an outside investment. and the world around them. They’re senThe bottom line is that we need money timental and appreciate that life is made coming in to have any money going out. up of moments and you have to make Luckily, I have the best team in the biz the best of each and every one. and we were able to pivot enough to Share with us your personal top 3 favorite jewelry creations of all time?

HDC: Neptune Necklace because of its fresh, simple silhouette which shows off your sand and earth elements perfectly.

Wave Necklace with turquoise gradient because it reminds me of the warm Caribbean ocean - plus, it’s iconic!

And, the Touch the World Collection because we’ve raised over $150,000 for multiple charities around the globe with this meaningful bracelet collection.

In addition to your personal favorites, what have been your most popular pieces over the years that are proven giftgiving winners?

make real changes within the company.

I began reconnecting with all of our customers via Facebook and Instagram Live and we launched our weekly “Kitchen Table Talks” which is a livestream that I do with my brand manager Lauren Behning.

We sit down every week and talk new designs, fun life hacks, travel stories and more. We also interview other female founded brands which keeps me inspired and motivated to continue moving forward… One foot in front of the other.

We created a retailer support program to help our retail partners stay afloat., and we also accepted the PPP loan which helped me keep my team intact.

Lastly, we decided that if there were no trade shows happening, we would go on wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 95

Local Vibes . . .

Dune Jewelry & Co. Photos: Samantha Robshaw Photography

the road and create our own. We rented Airbnb’s and set up shop to show our retail partners that we are committed to succeeding together, and I think that went a really long way.

Amalfi, Bermuda & Hawaii Experiential Candles

“Five Element Ring” & “Seven Sands Ring”

During the pandemic, we all faced dark moments both personally and professionally.

Was there something in particular that gave you hope for the future during those dark and uncertain times? How did you find the personal strength to endure the hardships of 2020, and still come out with your gorgeous smile on the other side, ready to take on the world?

HDC: I went through a few weeks where I was in a really dark place. I would stay up late at night after my husband and daughters went to bed, drinking tequila and ruminating about what I would do if I couldn’t save the business. It was super unhealthy and actually quite self-destructive. I would wake up feeling terrible with huge amounts of guilt and anxiety while trying to homeschool my daughters.

Luckily, I’m self-aware enough that I was able to pull myself out of that behavior.

I started journaling and setting my intentions on paper each morning.

From there I actually came up with a new idea that gained momentum and turned into our first batch of Experiential Candles! We have scents including Bermuda, Hawaii, the Outer Banks, and Cape Cod, to name a few, and each scent has fragrance notes that literally transport you to your favorite place without ever leaving your couch.

Sit back, light one of our candles, and take an armchair trip to Hawaii with notes of salt water, vanilla orchid, hibiscus, and coconut. That is one of the good things that came out of quarantine.

Holly Photo Frames

Many of us have saved shells, seaglass, feathers, sand and other earth elements as souvenirs of precious moments over the years. What are the steps to having a piece created, and approximately how long does it take?

HDC: We’ve made it so easy! First you can go to our website and choose a jewelry design or home accent that you love, then you can either choose sand or elements from our Sandbank or you can choose to send in your own for a truly bespoke one-ofa-kind experiential design. On our website there is a short element collecting video that explains it and makes it super easy! Once we receive your elements, it takes up to 3 weeks for our artists to create the design, and then we ship it to you.

Looking forward, what does the future hold for you?

HDC: The future is bright! I just opened our first ever brick and mortar store alongside my childhood best friend and Dune co-creator, Kellie Quinn. The boutique is located in Harwich Port, MA – on Cape Cod where I grew up. My dream is to grow this business so that I can work and create with my daughters someday.

For now, we’re concentrating on expanding our home accents line and I’ve just launched a new charity collection called The World Is Yours which I’m hoping you will check out.

Each bracelet holds earth elements from all 7 continents so that when you’re wearing it, the world is at your fingertips... Literally.

I’m constantly worried about the health of our oceans and all of the creatures below the water, so I’m dreaming of making an impact with this new charitable endeavor which supports global causes.

Wine Stoppers

Oh! And something totally new (and very exciting!), I wrote a book for Quarto Publishing - “Happiness Comes in Waves”... Be sure to follow me on my personal Instagram @sandy__hands for updates and release date!! F

“Touch the World” Bracelets

LEARN MORE: www.dunejewelry.com Follow Dune Jewelry on Instagram: @dunejewelry Holly’s Personal Instagram account: @sandy__hands Like Dune Jewelry on Facebook: www.facebook.com/dunejewelry Dune Jewelry on Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/dunejewelry Follow Dune Jewelry on Twitter: @dunejewelry 96 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

Local Vibes

Meet the Brand...

AGE: 43 YEARS SURFING: 19 HOMEBREAK: Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica YEARS AS A CREATOR: 6

AN INTERVIEW WITH CREATOR, TRICIA ZIMMER

Let’s start at the beginning.

You have a unique story, one of adventure and self-responsibility, one that most girls will only ever dream of. A life defined by your passion, and from such a young age. Share with us how you came to live in Costa Rica, what drew you there, and how you made it happen?

TZ: My Costa Rican dream was born when I was just a little girl, in love with the tropical lifestyle, secluded beaches and the wild beauty of the waves. Though I grew up land-locked in the mountains of British Columbia, Canada, I soon followed my heart and chased my dream to learn how to surf.

Following my passion, working hard and some sheer determination have kept me here, believing in myself and this dream as a surfer, mother, and woman entrepreneur. Empowering myself and others with a positive mind set and supportive belief system, I continue to live life in the present moment, staying creative with my work and never too far from the sea.

Surfing is obviously a passion of yours, and you’re quite good at it! How has falling in love with surfing altered the course of your future, compared to- per say, as a child, how you pictured your future might be?

TZ: As I mentioned I always foresaw surfing in my future. It has taught me many lessons in life, including patience. It has empowered me as a woman in a male dominant sport., as I never could have imagined the joy, satisfaction and pure beauty and power of the waves until I experienced them. I feel truly blessed to be fulfilling a childhood dream – not only an avid surfer, but as a successful entrepreneur of my brand Salty Bird Surf as well as co-owner of Zopilote Surf Camp and Jackalopes Surfshop, while living a simplified life by the sea with my family.

Many women dream of starting their own brand, and while that’s a “fun” idea in concept, one can only imagine the daunting task of implementing it, with all the difficulties, obstacles and lessons to be learned along the way.

When was it that you decided to start your own brand, and how was that experience for you, especially in the beginning? Did you have any experience in design or fashion? Was it scary?… Or did you have resources and contacts available that made the process easier for you?

TZ: Living as a surfer in a remote beach town for half a decade, functional swimwear was hard to come by. Though I had no formal background or experience in fashion design, necessity inspired me to create a brand of surf-worthy swimwear that would fit 98 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

Photo: Megan McMcCullor | @meganmccullor_photography

“

The road has not always been easy, especially as a small business surviving the past two years. Overcoming the different obstacles I’ve encountered on this journey has built my confidence and helped me feel empowered as I prove to myself that if I put my mind to it, I can truly do anything.

”

and flatter every body type. I moved to Bali for a year in 2014 with the intention of setting up production, sourcing a warehouse and finding the right fabrics, while immersing my young daughter and myself into the mayhem and magic of the island of the Gods.

The road has not always been easy, especially as a small business surviving the past two years. Overcoming the different obstacles I’ve encountered on this journey has built my confidence and helped me feel empowered as I prove to myself that if I put my mind to it, I can truly do anything. I am continuing to work hard to establish my brand in a global market – a challenging task for a small business competing with the big-name brands.

Have there been any pivotal moments in your journey as a designer that have defined your brand development?

TZ: A big turning point for me was in early 2019 when I decided to only produce swimwear in the most ethical and ecologically conscious way possible. I have always embraced the planetary need for sustainable sourcing to replace fast-fashion. I am committed to using only regenerated, recycled and eco-friendly fabrics, as well as biodegradable packaging. My collections are limited, as I continue to produce the bestsellers as well as a few new styles with each collection. Heeding the invaluable feedback from my customers helps keep me on track. As the creator of a surf brand designed to empower women, innovation and adaptation play a key role in the delivery of high-quality, practical swimwear for women of all ages and shapes.

What inspires your Salty Bird prints, and how often do you release a new collection?

TZ: I am always keeping an eye out for new textiles and sources of inspiration in my everyday life, and as I move about my travels.

Rather than following a seasonal schedule, new collections are regularly released upon demand, whenever creative inspiration may find me! I do like to use solid colors combined with original prints for my reversible pieces.

Do you use special fabrics or design cuts that you feel differentiates Salty Bird from others?

TZ: Yes! In fact, in 2019 we switched to only using regenerated nylon and recycled fabrics, as well as plant-based biodegradable packaging to reduce our ecological impact. While I recognize that clothing manufacturing will always have an impact on the environment, Salty Bird is committed to doing our best when it comes to sustainable sourcing, production and packaging. Select Salty Bird bikini pieces are reversible, to keep mix n’ match styles fresh, creative and fun!

Besides progressing your brand... What else are you passionate about in life?

TZ: Now that I’ve entered my 40’s, I am becoming more conscious of my mind, body, spirit connection. of what I put into my body.

Eating organic foods is very important to our family, which, combined with daily exercise and a positive attitude on life, helps keep us healthy and resilient.

Are you involved in any community outreaches or sponsorships that you’d like to share with us?

TZ: Living in a small coastal community, I make it a point to involve myself in the many local projects and donation-based efforts

Local Vibes . . . Meet Salty Bird Surf Photos by: Jade Madoe | @jademadoe

taking place in town. I regularly donate my swimwear to local raffles for community fundraisers.

Looking forward, what does the future hold for Salty Bird, and for yourself as well?

TZ: Yes I am very excited to have just released my first resort wear collection featuring oversize dresses, jumpers and pants, made with sustainable viscose fibres made by LENZING™.

I plan on continuing to grow Salty Bird Surf in a variety of different ways, including an annual women’s surf trip and eco-friendly yoga wear!

I would also like to fulfill my curiosity of nutrition and how we can heal naturally and elevate our mind, body, spirit connection. F

Tricia’s favorite designs

LEARN MORE saltybirdsurf.com SOCIALS FB: @saltybirdsurf | INSTA: #saltybirdsurf FLAGSHIP STORE Playa Hermosa de Cobano, Costa Rica

p WAIMEA TOP “I love wearing our Wiamea surf top because it has an adjustable crisscross back and just the right amount of coverage in front. I feel comfortable and secure even on big days in the surf.”

t J-BAY BOTTOM “J-Bay is the best medium-coverage surf bottom with cheeky ruching detail for a figure-flatting shape. The drawstring waistband holds you in tight to prevent it from slipping while you’re duck diving or even on the occasional wipe out.”

t PAVONES ONE-PIECE “The Pavones design is as timeless as the wave it’s named after, with a hint of that classic 60’s style.

With sleek lines and extra-comfortable fit, nothing falls out of place, and the high neckline protects the chest from sun damage.”

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Local Vibes

Why I Started

A

Surfing

bout 4 years ago, our mother in the midst of a bipolar episode moved to Aguadilla, Puerto Rico by herself from Bend, Oregon. She had been

taking her medication regularly for about 7 years and seemed to be managing quite well. We suspected with the sudden move to Puerto Rico that she slipped off her meds.

She would tell me how amazing the people were and how incredible she felt in her new surroundings when I’d call to check in. She made friends and was immediately taken in by the community. Everything was lining up until about a year in.

My sister and I received a call from the Aguadilla Police Department explaining that our mother had been wondering the streets for days, half naked, bruised and obviously having issues with mental illness. They told us they had trouble identifying her since she wasn’t in a state of mind to communicate. They also informed us that she had no acknowledgment of having any children. Thankfully, Aguadilla is full of the most caring, kind-hearted people you will ever come across. People who didn’t know her, took her off the streets, fed her, clothed her and called for help. They also somehow tracked me down in Texas to communicate with me what was happening. They offered to help in anyway they could.

The Police Department informed us we had 24hrs to get a court order overturned in person before they put her in Puerto Rico State Care My sister and I quickly booked a flight and headed that way. We arrived in San Juan, rented a car and made our way to Aguadilla. The agony of only being able to enjoy Puerto Rico’s beauty from a car window was greatly intense. Having limited time before she was in PR State Care, we knew we had to stick to a strict schedule.

We found her apartment, packed as much as we could fit in two bags and headed for the hospital. We were both so emotionally drained. Just getting this far was a task.

Growing up with a parent that is bipolar with psychotic tendencies was a feat in itself for 102 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

us. We never thought we’d still be taking care of her as adults. Our thoughts were all over the place. We weren’t sure what state of mind she’d be in, what we’d do once we got back to Texas, or if we would be able to get her out of the hospital.

As we traveled to the hospital, Angela makes an executive decision to buy coconuts on the beach. “Screw the schedule, we deserve this.” she exclaimed while making a sharp turn to the shoreline.

I had no problem with the unexpected stop.

I agreed, why come all this way and not even see a beach? We walked along the sand drinking our fresh coconut, splashing each other and focused on the beauty of this magical place. We talked about coming back to this beach one day and giving it the attention it deserves. After brushing the sand off our feet we got back on schedule.

We found our Mom and as expected, she

was in an awful state of mind. With help from the amazing hospital staff, we got the court order overturned and headed back to Texas that night. It was the most surreal 24 hours of my life.

After returning from the PR trip, I had difficulty recovering mentally. Usually, I’m super positive and tend to find happiness in even the smallest of things. During this time I could sense that I was drifting into darkness.

When these times arose, I’d take my skateboard for a spin to get release. I found not

MICHELLE MORRISON Age: 33 | Houston, TX Avid life lover Photographer: ANGELA GRANT (A.k.a. the worlds best sister) Age: Older than me, but everyone thinks she’s younger so WHATeverrrr.

Houston, TX | Avid bathrobe wearer

even my skateboarding sessions were relieving the pain.

My job as a gymnastics instructor also fills my heart tank. I’ve coached gymnastics for 15 years and the kiddos perk me up on low days. I knew something was off when I started dreading going to work.

Unmotivated and frustrated that I’d only have one day to myself for the month, I decided my day off was not going to include anything I “had” to do.

My day off came and annoyingly I woke up early. Originally, I had planned to stay in bed all day and binge watch Netflix, but I knew I needed sunshine to break this depression. I decided to go the beach by myself and daycation away from any and all people I knew.

It’s a little over a hour drive from my house so I figured at least the drive time would help clear my head.

I drove to the gas station I stop at every time I get close to the beach, and noticed something I had never paid attention to before. A surf shop right next door. Had this surf shop always been here? I sat in my car staring at it, then the beach, then back at the shop again. I’ve never surfed. Never even really thought about trying. I laughed to myself and thought “Well, no-one is here to see me fail, so why not give a go?!”. I walked in, hesitantly letting the owner know I was new, had only ever skateboarded and wanted to give surfing a try. He set me up with the longest board possible, got me in a wetsuit and wished me luck!

Walking to the beach awkwardly with this huge board already lightened my dark mood.

I had to stop numerous times due to my uncontrollable laughter of myself hauling this “boat” to the beach. Once I made it to the sand I was relieved to see not a soul in or around the water. I sat and caught my breath from the walk and stared at the waves trying to remember the last time I even dipped my toes in. I couldn’t believe it had been so many years since I had come to the beach and actually swam in the ocean.

I took a moment breathing in the salt air,

My sister, Angela, had me laughing because she wore a pink bathrobe and UGGs to the beach. It was Madri Gras weekend so no strange looks as I skateboarded with the robe on also. Angela doesn’t, surf, but has been one of my biggest supporters in my surfing journey.

Also, she’s my hero in life.

sinking my hands in the sand and reminded myself that life is pretty brilliant. With no expectations, I took the surfboard and headed for the waves.

After a few tries, to my complete surprise I caught a wave and stood up! In that moment not only did I find my stoke for surfing, but more importantly I found my stoke for life again. It was incredible how small and big the ocean made me feel in one moment. For the first time in a very long time, I was proud of myself. It’s a moment that will stick with me forever. I called my sister right away and shared my experience. I know she was relieved I had found something to help me out of that funk! She booked a trip to LA for our birthdays and got me set up with surf lessons so I could catch bigger waves and cheered me on. She has been my biggest supporter and has encouraged me every step of the way Since then, I’ve had the opportunity to surf in Oregon and as much as I can, my home break in Galveston, Texas.

I’d like to say things with our mother have improved. The fact of the matter is, it’s a struggle. A struggle for her and for our family. Angela is a big reason why we’re able to stay as close as we are and functioning.

Through it all, surfing has brought me so much happiness and reminded me of how important it is to take care of yourself before you can care for others. Now that I’m happy,

it has been infectious! I’ve taught all the girls I coach with how to surf, and our bonds have grown deeper.

Whenever I start doubting myself or feel myself slipping, I hop in the water. There’s something so real and humbling about the ocean. It makes my biggest problems seem silly, and the lessons I’m learning from surfing carry over to my everyday life. Patience, perseverance, positive mind-set and building strong relationships that are meaningful. I’ve been so inspired, in the time that I’ve been surfing, by others in the surfing community. Sometimes I wish I’d started my surfing journey earlier in life, but for me it came at a very meaningful time and for that I am grateful.

It’s our dream to go back to Aguadilla with our hearts at peace. We want to explore in the community and continue to meet more incredible people there. I want to surf and Angela wants coconuts while she watches me surf.

Seems like it would make my surf journey come full circleto return to where my surf journey truly began. With my sister. My best friend. My hero.. In a place where the beauty is so intense you can’t help but enjoy it... Even if its momentarily. Where the people are so kind they give the shirt off their back and the food off their plate. The spot that cared for my family and inspired me to take care of myself.

Aguadilla. We are coming for you. F

Local Vibes

How I Became a Professional Surfer

without ever entering a contest

W

hen I was a little girl I absolutely LOVED watching surfing, but there weren’t many female surfers. My ultimate favs were Alana Blanchard and Holly Beck; they both took female surfing and made it FUN!! Then I discovered this magazine, and I couldn’t wait to go to the store and get each new copy when WSSM came out, just so I could read about other female surfers and the “Hello Kitty” fest. I was so inspired, I even got my own hello kitty funshape board, because... How fun!!!

I grew up (and still live in) Panama City Beach, Florida. All the boys would say that to become a professional surfer or surf model, you had to do a bunch of contests. As a competitive gymnast, I had decided to stop doing gymnastics and throw myself into surfing because I’d grown tired of being in competitions. So you can imagine my disappointment when the guys would suggest this.

Years passed, and my childhood was not easy. PCB FL was/is the number-one divorce capital in the entire U.S. and it was also the spring break capital. So growing up with a single mom (and

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this being a party scene environment), hurt, anger, and pain was the norm. To heal from it, I would just paddle out! I started noticing this was a common theme in the lineup. A bunch of angry, hurt, surfers who would try to run off any girls who would try to surf with them. Only the strong would survive, creating what few female surfers that were left, to become extremely masculine.

Not many surfers would give the time or energy to give pointers and I would often hear “girls don’t surf”! Now this was in the 90’s and healing one’s mental health wasn’t a thing around there, so I too became this extremely masculine surfer, chasing hurricane waves all over Florida.

It was at one moment I was the only girl along with 2 other extremely big surfer dudes on an overhead hurricane wave, that I realized, what am I doing? I started surfing because it was fun.

I started surfing because I was abused and that was my outlet.

I started surfing because I wanted to be a super feminine, fun, bikini-modeling surfer girl because I was really good at it. But now, here I am, in a sense competing to be the angriest surfer DUDE!! This isn’t my vision of female surfing!

One day I was out paddleboarding, and the water was gorgeous. I was alone, although married to my first husband at the time. He was in a mental surfing competition with me- as I was with him, and I thought, how can I just make a living surfing or paddleboarding, but make it fun again?

We were extremely Dutch so I always had to come up with my half of everything.

I so badly wanted to figure out how I could make the amount I need to come up with, while also feminizing the lineup? That’s when Paddleboard Yoga came along!!

A girl named Dashama was blowing up in south Florida with it, so I decided I would be the first to bring it to Panama City Beach. I named myself Mermaid Heather, so I would be different, but I had no clue what “Mermaid” was actually going to become!

The ball gets rollin’

As I started giving surf lessons and doing Paddleboard Yoga, I then created a yoga for surfing class in a yoga studio, that included indoboards- that later became surf sets. Sooooo many girls joined both Paddleboard Yoga and my yoga for surfing classes, that then later got surf lessons from me!

I appeared in local magazines and news stations about the classes I had created, and got sponsored by Muzzy Surfboards. It was then that I felt like an official, professional surfer. Because to me, it’s a mindset!

As my business succeeded, my marriage failed. But I did fall madly in love with my now husband, Erik, who helped build my classes, my website, and everything else I needed to make this a successful business.

And- then I was pregnant!

Being both a mermaid and a surfer, suddenly I was constantly surrounded by little girls, who all had the same childhood story as me.

I taught Paddleboard Yoga up to 6 months pregnant, surfed up to 8 months pregnant, and taught yoga one week before giving birth. I went right back to it all at 6 weeks post baby, however this was when my healing journey truly began. After Brody Reef was born, I was not able to get pregnant again, and that’s when I saw my mission. As I heal, the world heals.

Photo by Robert O. Smith

So started my journey of feminizing the lineup! I wanted nothing more than to see girls, moms, even grandmothers in the lineup, but the truth was, it wasn’t the lineup that needed feminizing, it was me!!!

Finding my mission

My grandfather was a Methodist minister and he would take me to the beach when I was very little and just minister to random people. They would all receive his word and be so grateful.

This same beach also had its own private peak that I would paddle out to and teach myself how to surf. And over the years I noticed that anytime I had a surf injury, practicing yoga healed it every time. So I decided, that would be my foundation.

Healing souls, healing the body, and creating focus and fun with the water.

It all started my wheels spinning!

So then, being a professional mermaid was my next step. Being both a mermaid and a surfer I suddenly was constantly surrounded by little girls who all had the same childhood story as me. They just wanted to have fun away from the scary world, and the moment they were on a board or in a mermaid tail they would just light up! Everyone was equal, no one was in competition, we all would find love in just having fun- being girls!!

Surfing is more than contests. Yes, it’s amazing to crush a contest and I couldn’t be more stoked to see Carissa Moore win the first gold, but my dream as a professional surfer is just showing them it’s a fun-loving lifestyle that you can do for the rest of your life!

I now lead women’s retreats that work to heal past trauma by losing yourself in the sea. I remind everyone, “If you think you can or you think you can’t, you’re right!”.

And this is how I became a professional surfer without ever doing a contest! F

Heather Gerace aka Mermaid Heather Instagram @surfmermaidheather

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Local Vibes

Photo by Dave Gregerson

My name is

Bree Labiak...

I’m 17 years old. I’m the first professional surfer with Cystic Fibrosis, and this is my story.

“I was born in St Joseph’s Medical Centre, Joliet, Illinois. At the age of 21 months, I was diagnosed with Cystic Fibrosis. CF a chronic disease which affects the lungs and pancreas. Having CF means that my body is not able to produce enzymes and I’m more susceptible to having a tough time breathing.

nurses mentioned the Mauli Ola Foundation to mum and I. She said their foundation focuses on pro surfers taking kids with CF out to surf. Their foundation teaches how the hypertonic saline (salt water) helps clear the lungs of those with CF. My mum and I jumped on the opportunity of me learning to surf!

From a young age, my life motto was to “live life to the fullest and never give up on my dreams”. I wish I could say that it was easy to get to where I am today, but it has been anything but easy.

The first time I went out surfing with the Mauli Ola Foundation they said I was a natural born surfer and the pros could tell I had real talent. Ever since my first time surfing, I’ve been practicing and training to be a better surfer.

When I was really young, I experienced a lot of trauma. My father would tell me I was worthless, that I was annoying, and that I had no purpose in this world. Even though I was only 5 years old, those words have stuck with me to this day. I began to shut down, detach from reality, and lose my spark. I didn’t want to speak up because I thought I’d be seen as weak. One day though, everything changed. I broke, mentally... I knew I had to tell my mum. The next day we were driving to South Carolina to live with my grandma.

In 2019 I competed in my first ever professional surf contestdeeming me the first professional surfer with Cystic Fibrosis, which was a lifelong goal of mine. To this date, I love surfing with every bone in my body and I credit my impeccable health to the salt water.

Once we settled in South Carolina, for some reason I didn’t want to do any of the sports I had done in Illinois. A few years passed, and one day my mum and I were at Walmart looking through the discount movie bin when Soul Surfer caught our eye. I don’t remember my first time watching it, but my mum said I was absolutely fascinated with Bethany’s story.

Coincidentally, at my next doctors appointment, one of the

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I have had some amazing opportunities along the way, including a Nicaragua surf trip with the infamous Jamie O’Brian, which was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

In closing, I want to thank all of my amazing sponsors for their unconditional love and support. Big thank you to Gregerson Surfing Photography, Piper’s Angels Foundation, Chikwax, Nimbus GSS, Tropic Sport, and JoyJoy Watches.

Most importantly, I want to thank my amazing, strong, and courageous mum for being there whenever I need her.” F

Local Vibes

Ken’s Day Off

Spanish House

Co-workers

My Art

I do editorial and children’s book illustrations, murals, etc, and my work is on mugs, t-shirts, and more. I am really hoping to paint a surfboard one day soon.

Manta

Artist’s Corner

Lea Wells

AGE: I think I’ve reached middle age YEARS AS AN ARTIST: I can’t remember not doing art.

YEARS SURFING: I grew up surfing, and still do it whenever I can get to an ocean. | HOMEBREAK: Indialantic, FL

In the Beginning

I grew up on a barrier island- part of Kennedy Space Center, so being in the ocean everyday and surfing was part of life.

I learned to surf on an ancient longboard that lived in the garage of a neighbor, and later on a Capri tri fin.

I’ve been making art forever. When you are in the ocean or on a mountaintop, you are struck by how small you are in the universe.

Art has always been my attempt to express that feeling of awe I have with life and especially nature.

As a child, I got in trouble in 1st grade, on my first day of school, for drawing all over my desk with a green crayon. I couldn’t understand why it wasn’t appreciated.

When I was 7, I discovered that hibiscus flower petals make a beautiful stain, so I did a mural on the side of our white house.

That didn’t fly with my parents. But they encouraged me most of the time and are very artistic themselves.

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Most of my art is ocean and nature inspired, especially those moments when human and animal encounter each other in the wild. Someone once told me my art has tiny characters with big emotion, and I like that description.

My 3 Favorite Pieces

MANTA - This piece embodies all the feels I have for being in the ocean and meeting other life there.

KEN’S DAY OFF - I did this piece of my brother and it makes me happy because it sums up how it feels to be heading to the ocean with a buddy and a board.

COWORKERS - This reminds me of how the danger involved is part of the adrenaline we love when we go out into the ocean or a forest.

Community Outreach

I have donated a lot of art and time to various environmental organizations, especially ocean conservation ones. I also teach an art program for special needs adults and children. These special needs citizens inspire me to live in the moment.

Future Plans

I hope to continue doing art and having adventures in and out of the ocean with the people I love. I have a lot of art career goals, but I especially want to spread awareness of ocean conservation.

The ocean is the heart of our planet, with 70% of our oxygen produced by marine plants. And that is just the beginning of how important the ocean is to us. F

Learn More & Follow

Instagram: instagram.com/lea_wells Etsy: www.etsy.com/shop/LeaWellsStudio

Local Vibes

Emy Knowles

Artist’s Corner

AGE: 46 YEARS AS AN ARTIST: 2 HOMEBREAK: Indian Rocks Beach, FL

In the Beginning

I don’t surf, but I want to learn. For the first half of my life, I lived in fear of the unseen and unknown (like sharks looming nearby), but for the second half of my life, I am living beyond fear. I am embracing all the things I have always wanted to do. That’s why I have only really been painting for two years. And that’s why I am hoping to get my first surf lesson this summer.

I have always privately painted. My first painting I remember was actually mixed media: crayon and acrylic paint. I was six years old, and my piece was a snapshot of Under the Ocean. The puffer fish was my favorite to draw. I tried to become an artist in college, but my professor told me I would never make it. I believed him, so I changed my major. About ten years later, I found out I am slightly colorblind. I think that might have been why my professor didn’t like my work. After twenty years in a safe career, I quit my job, built a studio, and started painting. Life goal—fulfilled!

As a child I didn’t draw on everything, except as a baby, I’d smear things on the walls and myself. For example, when I was two, I painted myself and the fireplace hearth in fluff and cold ash. I’m not sure where my mom was at the time. Maybe she was watching me and supporting my process. My mom has always been one of my loudest cheerleaders.

When I turned ten, she dropped me off at drawing class, but I was too scared of life to go back the second time. She also brought me to the local art shop on a regular basis, thus grew my addiction to art supplies.

My dad was a macrame artist and a woodworker, and he built my first easel. He also built a cabinet that I painted a rabbit on. This stands in my studio today. For years, my dad cut out any wooden shape and cutting boards aplenty for me to paint on.

Little Wave

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My Art

I recently started painting on shoes. I know it’s trendy, and the market is saturated, but it’s fun! One branch of my art is all about having fun. I have different styles, but I would say all my art is emotional, whether it be fun and happy, slow and depressed, or uplifting and inspirational.

Through my art, I try to bring, love, light, and compassion to everyone who views it. That is my hope.

My 3 Favorite Pieces

HIS HAND - This was the first painting that I went into a deep meditation with. I didn’t know what the result would be. I only knew I was starting with green. I popped on some jazz music, and let the spirit take me.

HERE COMES THE SUN - My nephew, Ezra Mathieu, was visiting over break. He is an avid snowboarder, skateboarder, and skim boarder. His kind soul inspires me. I climbed the stairs to my studio, closed the door, switched on Bob Marley, and picked up some yellow paint. During these dark days of the last year, I am reminded the sun is always shining behind the clouds. We just have to be patient and wait for them to part.

LITTLE WAVE - This is my first wave painting. Last fall, I spent a lot of time on the Gulf Coast in Florida. Even though I was super careful in November, I contracted Covid.Thankfully, I didn’t get terribly sick. I was alone, so I quarantined and started learning about waves. I have completed a whole series of painted waves now, and I am still painting them.

By the way, waves are what I also painted on my shoes!

Painting waves is so much fun, and it is healing too.

Over the last seven years, I have learned to live with grief (I am a widow), and the one thing my grief counselor told me that still resonates was, “Ride the Wave.”

I have counseled my loved ones, who have also lost a partner, to try this as well. “Ride the wave, so it won’t crash over you.”

This metaphor helps me through the dark times, as does painting waves. F

Learn More & Follow

Website: www.emilyknowles-artist.com Instagram: instagram.com/emilyknowles_artist Facebook: facebook.com/emilyknowlesartist

Here Comes the Sun

His Hand

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Artist’s Corner

Mel Patterson

Beach Calling

In the Beginning

I was probably about 5 years old when I started drawing.

I realized I had an obsession with colors. Did I drive my parents crazy by drawing on everything in sight? Probably!

Lol! I always had paint stains all over the house and my clothes. There’s still some blue acrylic paint on my childhood room floor that my dad refuses to sand out, because of the memories. My family has always been amazingly supportive. They’re my biggest cheerleaders.

My Art

I’ve taken classes my whole life, and received a bachelor’s degree in graphic design. During the pandemic I was missing the beach like crazy, while the beaches were closed. I started painting again out of boredom, and the only thing I ever felt like painting was the beach. The first item I worked on was a skateboard for myself, and I got a lot of great feedback. I decided to do more, eventually expanding to other canvases.

Mini Surfboards

Sun Daze

My 3 Favorite Pieces

It’s hard to choose just 3, but these are some of my favorites.

The first one is called “SUN DAZE” and is meant to capture the hypnotic glare from the sun shining on the ocean.

It’s a vibe.

The second one is called BEACH CALLING. This one I love, because it takes me back to my first trip to Hanalei Bay. And lastly, the 3 MINI SURFBOARDS are my favorite. I love this set and the colors. It’s perfect for any beach cottage. F

Learn More & Follow

Insta @art.x.mel | Etsy: www.Etsy.com/shop/artxmel

I love painting skate decks, and I also paint mini wood surfboards, and surfboard bottle openers. I would describe my art as happy, vibrant, and colorful, with a mix of meticulous line work. I get compared to Heather Brown, and while I LOVE her work… My inspiration actually came from a Japanese artist named, Tamo.

Right now I have some work at the Huntington Beach Art Center, and I hope to get more of my work into galleries.

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AGE: 38 | YEARS AS AN ARTIST: 20 HOMEBREAK: San Diego, California