pt 3) WSSM WOMENS SURF STYLE MAGAZINE | Travel Issue 2018 / '19

$9.99 U.S. & CANADA

SURFING THE

Silver Dragon

By Mary Osborne and Shane Cohn

September 2010:

AT FIRST IT WAS LIKE ROLLING THUNDER, AND MORE MYTHICAL THAN OUR MORTAL MINDS COULD HAVE EVER IMAGINED...

The Qiantang tidal bore surged into the Hangzhou Bay with ethereal power. A massive, absurdly rapid edifice of white water suddenly appeared, throttling through the bottleneck of the bay. It sounded like we were on the LAX runway with a 757 bearing down on us. But we weren’t. We were on the other side of the world—China. The four of us were bobbing on two jet skis in the bumpy Qiantang river, the rain getting heavier, hearts beating harder.

Gut check:: We were about to ride the Silver Dragon.

Professional surfers, Mikala Jones, Robert “Wingnut” Weaver, Jamie Sterling and me, were invited by Wasbono International, the sponsor of the 3rd annual China Action Sports Expo and Surfing China Festival, to surf the world’s largest bore Sept. 23-25.

Known as the Silver Dragon, the bore has reached heights between 20-30 feet and moves as fast as 25 miles/hr. In theory the bore can be surfed for more than 80 miles in the Hangzhou Bay. This natural phenomenon occurs once a year when the sun, moon and earth align, naturally creating an astrological spark that causes rushing incoming tides to funnel into the shallow river. Depending on the lunar impact, bores will take on various sizes.

The Qiantang is known for its “undular bore” which is a massive, clean and surfable wave, followed by a train of secondary waves.

“Most amazing wave I have ever seen,” said Wingnut. “The first look each day at the wave was so weird. This giant wall of whitewater stretching all the way across the river was just a total head trip.”

The bore is also steeped in Chinese mythology, which alone drapes the river in a sort of spiritual, otherworldly texture.

The myth tells the story about how the bore was unleashed on the river to punish an emperor, who had assassinated one of his generals, as he was a potential rival to his throne. To gain favor with the heavens and to stifle the river’s revenge, the Song Dynasty erected the Six Harmonies Pagoda (200 ft) on top of the Yuelun 144 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

Mountains, overseeing the city.

For the past two years, the Chinese government has allowed four surfers each year to surf the bore during the Autumn Festival, as a way of introducing surf culture to China. Jamie surfed the bore last year as a participant in the Expo, and was invited back with our group.

“I never in my wildest dreams thought that my surfing career would take me to China,” said Jamie. “This was the longest waves of my life and I’m sure the longest wave I’ll ever surf. It’s so different to any other surf trip I’ve been on because you anticipate the wave arriving at an exact time. It’s like you have a date with the river.”

We were the third installment of surfers to ever showcase the sport of surfing during the annual festival; and I would be the first woman to ever surf the Dragon.

I gripped tightly to Wingnut as he turned the throttle of the jet ski and raced toward the oncoming bore.

I glanced behind me toward the launch ramp: ambulance, police cars, government officials, and harbor patrol. Further beyond was the Six Harmonies Pagoda and 300,000 spectators along bridges and massive defense walls that lined the river. This was going to be one hell of a ride.

My first site of the wave was mind blowing. A massive wall of whitewater quickly increasing in size and heading directly towards us.

Photos by: Charles Lanceplaine, Glenn Brumage, Wingnut Weaver, Shane Cohn, Mary Osborne

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Jaime was the first surfer up and riding. A glassy, 8-foot left hand wall of perfection opened up for him to tear apart.

Wingnut and I chased the Silver Dragon back and forth until it opened up into a surfable wave. I quickly wrapped my leash around my leg and jumped off the back of the ski with my board. Paddling as fast as I could, I felt the energy pick me up and glide me across the river. It was a perfect left for what seemed like miles. Then, just as my legs got the shakes, the wave closed out. I rode on my knees for a few moments to give my legs a break, and suddenly the wave opened up to the right. I was up and riding again. It continued like this. A one wave succession of rights and lefts. It truly was a longboarders dream wave.

And it only got better during the next two days. Glassier. Bigger. Sunnier. And this was synonymous with the Expo itself. In the city, the streets closed down for the talented crew of pro skateboarders going big on vert ramps.

Stand-up paddlers demonstrated the new sport in a makeshift pool, and bikini models showed off the newest western bikini wear. While all the fun and games were occurring outside, inside the convention center was an entirely different ball game. Elite board sports business owners from the United States lined the panels. They were fielding questions from curious Chinese business men and women about how to build board sports and its lifestyle in China.

In 2008, SIMA Retail Distribution study estimates 146 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

surf/skate retail sales over $7.22 billion in the US alone, at a population of 304 million. Multiply that by the Chinese population of 1.2 billion and one can easily see that opportunity for this industry is knocking at the door.

I have a feeling the Silver Dragon may soon bring this land waves of gold.

Update 2018:

What started as four adventurous pro surfers (Wingnut, Mary Osborne, Mikala Jones and Jaime Sterling) chasing down a giant river wave during a yearly natural phenomenon in the middle of the city in China, was originally all fun and games with no pressure attached. Each one of us shared the historical beauty of an endless wave down the Qiantang tidal bore, while millions watched in awe along the banks.

Over the years interest grew, so did the talent, sponsors & media wanting to be involved.

Now, Wabsono’s Qiantang tidal bore has become one of the most sought after events in China. Pro surfers from all over the world only dream of tackling the Qiantang river’s dangerous, but majestic tidal bore wave.

The Qiantang Shootout is the first legit surf contest held on the world’s biggest tidal bore.

Each year, the contest format has slight changes making it far more difficult and challenging for surfers to claim the victory and large prize money package.

We have had teams compete from Brazil, United States, Australia, France and last year, the first ever Chinese surf team.

The rules- 6 teams with two surfers on each team, 3 best waves judged per team and each team member has to have a score on the wave to qualify.

Just to make things more difficult, there is now priority and a boat full of frothing judges racing in front of the bore trying to keep up with the teams on jet ski.

I am on the only female “water safety” skis, making sure teams don’t get close to the dangerous side banks, typically where the competitors love to travel to because the wave gets the most hollow and fast.

And let’s not forget a few other obstacles in the river lineup such as massive city bridges, underwater jetties, fishing boats, strange things floating besides you while you’re surfing and everything else a massive river moving at top speed can obtain.

To put things in perspective, jet skis break, boards go missing, and boats run out of gas.

The Silver Dragon doesn’t give up easy and always puts up a good fight.

It is by far one of the most challenging events I have ever witnessed, with top competitors showcasing the best talent of surfing in the world.

Winners such as team Australia’s Dean “Dingo” Morrison / Koby Abberton, and Hawaii’s Jaime O’Brian / Cheynee Magnusson, have conquered the Silver Dragon and taken surfing on a tidal bore to a completely new level.

Keep your eyes open for the next Silver Dragon event. I can assure you the level of competition will only increase, the tales from the adventure are one not to miss, and the Silver Dragon will come fighting at full force. F

Photos by: Charles Lanceplaine, Glenn Brumage, Wingnut Weaver, Shane Cohn, Mary Osborne

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Living On

Namotu

through the eyes of a surfer

by Michelle Sheptak

Bula…Bula…Bula…. !!!

My second trip to Namotu… I’m still reliving it.

The warm water, the amazing food and the friendships that were reunited. I learned more about the island and the culture this trip and hope you will all feel that for at least during the moments you read this, you were part of my trip to Namotu-Vinaka!

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photos by: Ben Kottke

April 30, 11:30 pm- After convincing a friend to call in sick to take me to the airport, getting lost driving to LAX (I know, not a good start), checking in bags (lost credit card), a quick hello to familiar faces from my first trip, a couple refreshments prior to boarding my flight…

I was finally on the way.

diagnosed with severe spinal cord stenosis… repetitive motions from surfing and golfing helped exacerbate the diagnosis.

Being uncomfortable and in pain the last 2 years was what really drove me and motivated me to do the trip again, thinking- “one more time”… in case my situation got worse.

This year was a much different trip compared to 2005... My health being the biggest difference. I’m still broke leaving for the trip, but the bills are paid and when I’m on an island so far away there’s not much you can do about it. You just hope you come back home, having scored amazing waves and with a tan.

All it took was one quick text to my friend, Kevin, saying, “ I’m jones-ing for a surf trip… how do I get back on the Namotu crew?” He replied, “You’re on the A-list, deposits due in a week!”

So let the money saving start.

I don’t know what made less sense to me. Returning to Namotu, two months before the full deposit was due, in a horrible economy, which cost $1k more than 4 years ago, OR, trying to understand what went wrong in the most amazing relationship I’ve ever been in just one month before my trip. I decided I couldn’t find the answer to either, but hoped relaxation and waves would help to heal my bank account and my heart.

May 1- cross dateline in flight.

May 2, 5:10 am- Landed in Nadi after a 10 hr. flight. Prior to deplaning,

My biggest challenge was having 2 minor neck surgeries within 3 weeks of the trip. Thanks so much for your amazing work Dr. Chisholm!! I had been

we had a small delay as they quarantined the rows around row 34 due to a possible “Swine Flu” outbreak... Rumor has it the person vomited and had a fever. Had they known I vomited one hour into the flight, I may have been quarantined also... But I would have sworn my illness was due

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Living On

Namotu

through the eyes of a surfer

to the quick martini and tequila with the group before boarding!

Once we stepped off the plane, the sweet floral scent of frangipani and orchids filled the air, and the humidity hit you like a storm. But, we were there and our feet were in Fijian land now!!

The first day we drove into Nadi and bought Kava to present to the island on arrival, per tradition, but this year we ordered it and had it sent ahead.

While mostly everyone relaxed and ate breakfast, I went shopping with Gail -our massage therapist. Ironically I also met Diana, an adorable surfer girl, who was also supposed to be my physical therapist for my neck. If I’d have kept my appointments the last month I would have met her beforehand, but it took going to Fiji for us to be introduced and then find out we only live about 5 miles from each other! Needless to say, we were inseparable surfer girls on this trip.

When shopping on this trip, I asked more about the culture and the weapons. I didn’t want to buy any cannibalistic souvenirs in 2005, but after learning all about the weapons and the history from a girl at Jack’s Fiji Gift Shop, I was intrigued and bought my first cannibalistic fork!

In Fiji, the turtle is considered “lucky” and therefore any wooden carved mask or weapon with a turtle carved into it is considered good luck. I learned there were four major weapons, the uniquely and self explained “neck breaker”, “skull crusher”, “paddle”, and then “fork”.

It was simple in cannibalistic days; they would break your neck, crush your skull, then flatten your skull with the paddle and eat you with the fork. I felt better buying a mask and fork because it had a big lucky turtle on it!

10:00 am- After a short wait at the hotel , we

did the van ride to the Uciwai Jetty, where we jumped in the boats and did the short ride over 150 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

to Namotu.

The water was crystal clear—and as blue as blue can be, warm… and at that moment, you couldn’t ask for more-- except perfect surf. We met the previous group leaving, and their faces told us their week was flat, but that today, the swell was picking up. We tried to sound empathetic, but truly we were stoked waves were rolling in, just as we were gonna roll up!

12:30 pm - Arrived on Namotu, greeted with

shell lei’s handmade by Sereana and the Fijian Island workers. Then we met at the dining area; quick hugs and bulas were exchanged and we met with Scotty and Mandy, who gave us our room assignments.

Lucky again... the girls got The Villa (basically the only other house-style-place, besides Scotty and Mandy’s). Everyone else stayed in a Bure...which are very island like and very nice.

We were all informed Larry “the water photographer” this year, was now known as Ben-Larry ... Ben’s amazing; he was there my first trip and coincidentally was back again the week I was with Liam -the fisherman and Greg-the lifeguard. Met a new lifeguard this year named Mike, and after the quick group intro, we unloaded our bags into our places, threw fins in the boards, waxed up and away we went.

8:30 pm- After a 2 hr. surf at Namotu Left’s,

a great supper and a couple refreshments, we were all ready for bed... when you cross the dateline it’s a long first day!! We caught the swell good, got a nice 4-5 ft. first day, nice conditions, amazing warm water and a great start to a week of surf that was heading our way.

May 3, 5:30 am- Didn’t sleep too well, but

fell asleep easy, listening to the sound of the surf thru the open windows in the Villa. I woke up several times, including 4am, to stand on the

deck and just look at all the stars. The galaxy is so very different in this part of the world; you feel like you can just reach out and grab the stars from the sky.

7 am- Decided to wake up and stretch and catch a light breakfast... yogurt and fresh island fruit is plenty. Sereana showed me her thumb this morning. I asked her what the bandage on it was and she proceeded to tell me she has had an infection for over a month and it is painful every night. Turns out she had a massive infection, and it was staph. Being an ER nurse I came prepared and had the right antibiotic and cleaning supplies for her. I made her promise to come to me the whole week, twice a day for sterile dressing changes and medicine. We developed a much better friendship and we spent 45 min. together every day so I could drain the wound and change the dressings. I also learned more about her family, since we knew each other from 2005… and I think we will be friends for a very long time.

11 am- Namotu gets morning sickness every

morning, so when the tide filled in and the light wind blew off, we all were off and surfing for the rest of the day. Half the group went to Despo’s, and Diana and I went to Namotu Lefts.

Once again, nice 4-5 ft., “gain your confidence” waves, that you could take off late, and just rip off the top. Oh, but this attitude changed as the week went on!

1:30 pm- Well, we slept; we surfed; now, you

eat... again! Lunch was the traditional grilled fish- usually Wahoo, along with salad, rice and fruit. After a sleep in the hammock and reading for the rest of the afternoon, it was time to get ready for appetizers, refreshments and supper.

I had heard that there were lots of sea snakes out this year... so I was now on a mission to find one and see it this year, and not just their morning tracks in the sand! Bob already had the luck of having a morning shower with one!!!

May 4, 6:00 am- Slept awesome last night!!! What a difference when

I turned my mattress upside down!! The night was filled with tropical rain and it smelled amazing in the morning. There was light rain and slightly overcast, so we all ate a big breakfast and we were pretty much in tune with having a day of relaxing, reading and just enjoying the ability to rest.

Diana and I went for a walk around the island; however, we dragged our feet so slow and focused so much on all the small intricate shells we didn’t make it too far. You can really walk around the whole island in 10 minutes; we walked maybe 50 ft. in 1 hour!!!

By the time we passed the boat house and happened to look over at the Left’s, all it took was one set to come thru and shell picking was done… we ran back to get our boards!!!

11:00 am - The rest of the group was in sync when we showed up at

the boat house to wait for Wonga to call a boat man for us. Ben Larry yelled, “Ladies... today’s the day... photo opp session at Despo’s!”

Diana was here for her first time and enjoying easing into Namotu… but today, my friend, we just gotta go!!

Of course, we were thinking we were going to test out new bikini’s and surf Namotu Left’s ourselves, but on the boat ride out to Despo’s (about

30 min. from Namotu) we ended up triple tying our bikini’s, waking up a bit more and were ready to charge. All we heard was either you loved Despo’s, or you didn’t like it! You get dragged in too far… and you’re now on Despo’s Tour....

The Story At Despo’s: One word.... PERFECTION!!! I loved Desperations!!! It was glassy, buttery smooth, perfect A-Frames at 7-10 ft. and way out past Wilkes Pass. Waves were consistent and lining up. The trick is to not get sucked into wanting to ride it all the way out, which is incredibly hard to resist when you see this perfect wall lining up.

The conditions were so perfect you could see the reef, even though we were so far out. Despo’s is a wave on a reef break, but conditions are like a beach break. There are peaks all around you, they’ll line up, but if you get too greedy, you pay. Before you know it you are about 200 ft. from the line up and trying to paddle back out in ankle deep water. I loved this wave.

On my first 2 waves I dropped in, kicked out a little early taking the boys advice, and found the opening back out to the line up no problem.

3rd wave-- 8 ft. set wave, there I was in the slot, paddling, paddling... getting pelted with sea lice, but still focused. Ben Larry’s sitting right under the lip as I take off trying to get some shots for the magazine.

I stood up into an instant stand up barrel and then like a train it rode me over... pushed me inside about 50 yds. and held me down. All I knew is I had to lay flat and saw 3 colors of blue on the way up. But that was only a baby introduction to Despo’s.

After a couple more sets then it happened. I went for the big set again... dropped in, made the drop and then realized Al wasn’t going right, he was going left... oh crap! I didn’t want to snake my new Aussie friend, so I decided to kick thru the back. Bad decision, or maybe just too tired to do it precise, but got half way thru the back before getting pushed all

photos by: Ben Kottke

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Living On

Namotu

through the eyes of a surfer photos by: Ben Kottke

the way to the inside. I felt my hands first hit the reef and then my feet.

Feet up, stay on your board and here we go... WELCOME to DESPO’s TOUR. It’s one paddle forward, and it feels like the current is pushing you two strokes back.

On the paddle back, you watch picture perfect a-frame waves breaking way out in different sections wrapping around you like a horseshoe, no channel to paddle back out, just stay calm, paddle your heart out and try to find the opening.

I was doing fine, stayed calm and then noticed Greg take a wave; I gave it a looky look on the wave to see if he could see me... after all I’d been paddling 15 min. Greg was an amazing friend and lifeguard, who took one in and then came to do the paddle back out with me-- not because I couldn’t make it, but because it’s so long to get back out- it’s nice to have the company!

3:00 pm- After 4 hours we were all full of smiles, dehydrated, good

hearted and simply STOKED! This was by far the best session of the trip (looking back) and when the water crew was saying it was the best they’ve seen Despo’s in awhile, I was glad I skipped the Lefts this morning.

Our whole group was on this session except 4 others and you can be certain we never let them forget the insane waves they missed!! When you miss lunch and your group is still gone, you know you missed something!

Al was complete comedy wearing his Silver Alien helmet... got some movies of people surfing in it, but it was more hilarious with Ben wearing the gear on the boat ride back to Namotu. No lie... put those 2 in a boat or anywhere and you will not stop laughing! You guys are good medicine for the soul!

With my arms feeling the burn, my face seeing too much sun today, a raspberry rash on my knees and reef rash on my hands and feet... I sat quietly for a moment on the boat trying to remember how perfect today’s surf was, knowing it would be one of my best sessions of the trip.

There’s nothing like taking off on a set wave and feeling your fins grab the face. You feel close to death knowing the reef is only 2 ft. below you, but 152 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

you come out unscathed, tired because you paddled non-stop and happy with how you performed that day.

Rumor is, the swell is building… eat well, stay rested and be ready to play hard! Al, Rob and Greg all got insane waves at Despo’s taking off late, and landing it in the flats. Thanks for da view, fellas! Nice to see how easy it can be done!

May 5, 5:45 am- When I looked out my window from my bed and saw

the high winds and the current moving fast, I laid back down, closed my eyes and remembered how amazing yesterday’s surf was. This morning everyone kind of did their own thing; Liam and Al fished, reeling in 3 Wahoo, but also lost a Yellowfin to a shark.

11:00 am- Joel, Diana and I walked around the Villa and took pictures of

ourselves posing like the statues. It was a windy, low-tide morning and the only day I did not surf. After hearing 3 different groups going out and hearing the same thing “really windy, current’s too strong”, I didn’t feel like I missed much.

4:00 pm- Diana and I decided to use the afternoon to learn to standup

paddle surf. Wasn’t the best conditions, but we got the hang of it quickly.

I know I’ll never laugh at people again when they fall for no reason. You gotta keep moving, keeping a rhythm and then it feels natural. Our feet got cramps, but it was a good stretch through your core and shoulders.

5:00 pm- There was a house party at the Villa tonight (our house), but

we didn’t know until we walked by the message board to see the notice “House Party-Villa”. We walked into the Villa only to see a Kava bowl decorated and glasses with umbrellas and fruit in them. Guess we better shower and get ready …

5:30 pm- The party was under way; we ate sushi and drank a punch… it

was a fun gathering. We heard the familiar drum announcing supper was going to be ready soon. Most of us were an hour late to dinner, taking group photos and hanging out in the Villa.

Another amazing dinner and we all ate well. I don’t think I’ve ever had dessert after every dinner for so many nights in a row!!

May 6, 6:00 am- This was my morning to go fishing! If I didn’t go today

I probably wouldn’t go this year again. I knew if the swell was going to fill in, I would be surfing early morning, not fishing. I rolled over in bed and looked out my window to confirm the wind and rain I heard all night was definitely true! I promised I would be up and ready to go, so I walked out to the dining area to find Liam, eating a bowl of cereal. Eyes not open, but he was waiting. I borrowed Dano’s rain jacket and away we went. In pouring rain, we headed out to Liam’s fishing spot to hopefully bring back some Wahoo. It was comical. After trolling for a short while we had three of four lines reeling out. When you only have 2 people on a boat, heading upwind and 3 lines tagged, you can imagine the comedy of trying to steer the boat, nonetheless, we lost 2 bites, but I managed to catch my first Wahoo. I had visions of the skull breaker as I watched Liam bash the fish to finish the kill. “Good job mate- we got one,” Liam says. The rain settled and after one more pass we didn’t get any more action on the lines, so we headed back in.

11:30 am- We took a little break, and then Diana and I paddled out to Namotu Lefts. We thought we’d just grab an hour because it was still pretty

blown out, but apparently we thought the surf was better than it was… so much better we stayed out 2 hours, making everyone wonder if it really was better than it looked. Eventually the whole group came out and we all enjoyed the last part of the day surfing together.

4:00 pm– Finally my massage time! I never wanted to miss surf to book

my time for a massage, but today was the perfect day for that. The massages were done on the deck, where you could hear the ocean and smell the beautiful scents in the air… It was the perfect treat for midweek.

5:30 pm- KAVA NIGHT!

For this part in my journal, I asked my friend Sereana to explain to me in her words what Kava Night means to the Fijians, and she wrote me this-- I left it unedited to make it feel more traditional.

“I WILL TELL YOU ABOUT KAVA NITE IN THE SIMLPLEST OF EXPLANATION THAT I CAN GIVE YOU. KAVA IN FIJIAN KNOWN AS YAQONA AND IS A PEPPER PLANT WHICH I DONT KNOW THE SCIENTIFIC NAME FOR IT, BUT IT IS OUR TRADITIONAL DRINK USED IN ANY FORM OF CEREMONY FROM BIRTHS TO DEATHS. IT IS MIXED IN A CLOTH SEWN AS A BAG. KAVA PLANTS ARE HARVESTED WHEN IT IS MATURED AND THAT DEPENDS ON THE FARMER HOW MANY YEARS... 5 TO 15 YEARS...THE MORE THE MATURITY THE BETTER THE TASTE... INFORMALLY YOU CAN DO KAVA CEREMONY AT HOME, FOR INSTANCE, WHEN YOU HAVE A VISITOR COMING TO YOUR HOUSE. THE VISITOR WILL FIRST PRESENT THEIR KAVA AND THERE WILL BE A SPOKESPERSON WHO PRESENT THEIR KAVA SAYING ALL THE

NICEST THINGS TO THE HOST, THEN THEY WILL ALL DRINK THAT KAVA FROM THE VISITOR. THEN THE HOST WILL PRESENT THEIR KAVA AND WILL PROBABLY THANK THE VISITOR FOR COMING TO VISIT AND WILL SAY ALL THE NICEST WORDS TO THE VISITOR, AND THEY WILL DRINK TILL IT’S FINISHED AND AT SAME TIME THEY WILL GET TO KNOW EACH OTHER WELL IN CONVERSATIONS. THAT IS JUST AN EXAMPLE OF HOW WE DO IT AT HOME, BUT IN BIG FORMAL KAVA PRESENTATION THAT INVOLVES THE CHIEFS, KAVA IS PRESENTED IN ROOT FORM TO THE CHIEF. WE HAVE SPOKESPERSON FOR THE CHIEF WHO DOES EVERYTHING FROM PRESENTATION TO WHEN THE CHIEF IS READY TO LEAVE, SO ITS QUITE A BIG CEREMONY FOR US AS A FIJIAN. WHEN INVOLVING THE CHIEF, KAVA IS USUALLY PRESENTED TO THE CHIEF IN A SPECIAL MEKE... THAT IS FIJIAN DANCE.” - Sereana During the ceremony, tradition is to clap your hands one time, drink Kava from the bowl handed to you and then clap three more times when you are done. You continue to pass the bowl. Kava is the Fijian’s alcohol, so often they stay up, gathering and laughing, drinking the Kava until it is all gone. I managed to drink 3 bowls this year, but Kava is still not in my

top 10 drinks! During the MEKE they sang a song which repeatedly said “Leywa, leywa”… it sounded beautiful, but the men often sang and when we asked Mika what it meant, they all smiled and just drank more Kava.

In the end we found out the song was about a boy who falls in love, but cheats on his girl and when she finds out, he just moves on and finds another girl to fall in love with. I laughed thinking,”Well, you don’t have to live in Fiji to experience the meaning of that song!”

May 7, 9:00 am- I FINALLY saw my first sea snake!!!

I was walking down the path with Diana to go for a walk and collect shells, when dead in our tracks, we saw a black snake with white spots all coiled up! I told Diana to stay there and watch where it goes, and I sprinted back to the Villa to grab my camera! I came back and one of the Fijian maintenance men picked it up and was holding it. He says to me “Here, you hold it!”

After I watched it stop squirming, I finally felt confident enough to hold it by it’s tail. Granted, these snakes have small mouths, but IF you get bit… you will be dead. I walked around to show everyone, but that was long enough to realize I’d been pinching this snake’s tail and it was starting to make me nervous. So I walked down to the beach and launched it back in the ocean… aimed directly at TAVARUA !!

Lazy morning- I started to not feel well. I was freezing cold, felt extremely tired and not hungry. Here I was in Fiji , wearing a long-sleeve

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shirt and a hoodie, and just wanting to wrap up in a blanket and drink hot tea. WHAT!??

I tried to surf once today and when I asked everyone if they thought the water was cold, I knew something wasn’t right. Today was supposed to be Flip Flop Golf on Plantation Island, where I was supposed to give a Long Drive lesson to half the people that knew I competed at World’s, but for me to miss golf they knew I was run down. (I found out when I got home and was then hit with another bout of Tonsillitis, that I was sick with Mono… and my tonsils had to come out!).

I was hoping I would be quarantined with Swine Flu and would be able to stay another week on the island! Surf was predicted to be 20 ft. and rumor was- Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton were flying over to surf Cloudbreak.

Afternoon- Tired from paddling all morning, but wanted one more

session. It was getting bigger and on sets you couldn’t see one another as you paddled over the peaks. Diana and I went out and found out quick, the choppy afternoon was still firing and when the sets came in, it was building to 15 ft.

Mike (lifeguard) sat on the jet ski in case we needed to be bailed out if we got caught inside, but we held our own. If I needed to be thrown on a sled to get out of there I probably shouldn’t be out there, so I kept my mind in the game. Dano was out kitesurfing and catching huge airs. My next trip-- Dominican Republic, I want to learn how to kitesurf!!!

Took a boat over to Tavarua to look at Cloudbreak and Restaurants with the swell. Sets at Cloudbreak were 15 ft.+ with only the lifeguards towing each other in. It was chunky, and it was big! We saw a turtle swim by our boat and I was happy, I had seen the LUCK of Fiji in the water!

Afternoon- Went to Tavarua to revisit the island and to do some

shopping. Diana and I went and walked around and bought a couple souvenirs. We didn’t get to surf Cloudbreak or Restaurants, but then again, we got Despo’s- so good- even the Tavarua photographer had heard how good it was!

Evening- Ben did a slide show tonight. He has such fantastic creativity

with his photography. The big swell is brewing. I still don’t feel too well, so tripled up on Vitamin C tabs and took some homeopathic medicine for fevers. Hydrated, added some Motrin and hoped for the best wave of my life tomorrow. I needed to get my energy and feel better, and there was no way I was missing big, warm water surf this far from home!

On my way to sleep, Ben told me, “I want you to paddle in as hard as you can on the big ones tomorrow… we’ll get the shot!” I was stoked and went to sleep dreaming of watching Blue Crush with a friend. Reliving how it feels to hit the reef hard, and knowing I wasn’t going to let that happen tomorrow!

May 8, early am- Swell is here! The weather still has high

winds, but the surf is pumping. Our whole group was out at Namotu Lefts with Ben shooting photos all morning. It was windy, with a strong current and you couldn’t stop to rest or you were swept out so fast you felt like you’d never be sitting on the peak. Surf was up to 10-12 ft. sets. Dano and Rob were using the winds to their benefit and got rigged up for kitesurfing. They probably had the most fun out there this morning.

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May 9- early morning- We all were awake early, checking the surf

in anticipation of one last session before packing up to head home.

To our surprise it has backed off some and again Namotu had morning sickness with the lowtide. It was inevitable we wouldn’t get one last surf in, so we ate breakfast and got our boards all packed up to leave.

Mid morning- Some of our group decided to golf at the hotel back

in Suva which included a helicopter over, so they got to leave in style. I was dragging my feet all morning, not ready to go home with a nice swell in the water. Sun was out, which it hadn’t been for a couple mornings, but it felt like a traditional way to leave the island. When I realized Scotty wasn’t going to hire me as a lifeguard for the next groups arrival, it was finally time to say goodbye! I walked down to the beach and loaded up the Namotu One boat for the trip back to Uciwai Jetty.

It felt nice to enjoy the surrounding islands, and the half hour boat ride was just an extended way of saying goodbye.

Early afternoon- We arrived in Nadi, but still had 10 hrs. before

we left to the airport, so Diana, Gail and I, headed to go souvenir shopping and experience the culture. We shopped in the open market where the freshest spices, fish and fruit are in abundance.

My feet were so sore from reef cuts I finally bought socks to wear with my flip flops. I’m sure the Fijians thought I was insane for wearing socks when it was so warm out. We ate at Curry Restaurant and after we were shopped out, we took a taxi back to the hotel to meet our group.

Early evening- A short stay at the hotel to shower and get ready for the airport; we’re

scheduled to leave at 6:30 pm and board the plane at 10:20 pm. After a 3 hour wait in the check-in line and a quick refreshment and slice of pizza, we were now boarding the plane back home. This makes a perfect ending to our trip--you leave at night and will arrive at home the same day in the afternoon. The night flight is nice, and it’s always sad to leave a beautiful island like Namotu, but what better way to cross the dateline back into the USA by dreaming of the last 7 days in paradise?

Vinaka! F

Michelle Sheptak

2018 Update: STOLEN SURFBOARDS Jan. 23rd, 2017, two of my surfboards were stolen from my garage overnight.

They were not just any surfboards, both were extremely sentimental in value, and closest to my heart. My “Eddie Van Halen” board was a special memorial board shaped in Hawaii by Keoki (laminates on the board) in honor of my friend and legendary X-Games legend, Jeff “Ox” Kargola, who died tragically on a dirt bike in Baja. Aside from the red and white paint design, his blue racing logo is on it, and I am the only one with this board. So if you see it, and I’m not on it-- it was stolen!

The second board was the one pictured here in this article, with the red & white race flag design, with one black square, and the board that I was riding when I got the cover shot in WSSM. Shaped by the legendary Jeff Clark, it has the Mavericks logo on the top and bottom laminated on the board. It was shaped before Clark Foam left the industry, making it that much more precious to me. Both board have GoPro fin plugs glassed into the stringers.

Please let me know if you or anyone sees these boards, so I can get them back somehow.

My heart is broken that they are gone. Forever grateful for your help.

Contact me at longdrivergirl@yahoo.com, or by Instagram @michellesheptak

photos by: Ben Kottke

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I

’d paint you a picture, but Nick has already done that for me here. It’s now my job to explain to you the feeling of waking up in a temperate rainforest, pulling on a 6 millimeter wetsuit, and jumping into the frigid North Pacific Ocean in the middle of the winter.

There truly is nothing like it. This hasn’t always been my life; in fact, I was afraid of the ocean until I turned 18 and decided to learn how to surf.

A bad experience at summer camp as a child tore me away from swimming in the sea. I originally come from the East Coast of Vancouver Island, the sheltered, surf-less side of the island.

I spent my whole life on an island being thrashed by waves all year round on the West Coast, never realizing the potential to live in a surfer’s paradise.

It wasn’t until I heard the song “Surfin’ in Tofino” by the Planet Smashers, that I wanted the life of a surfer. I moved out to Tofino a week after hearing that song. Two days later I got the courage, a friend’s gear, and walked into the ocean. I’ve barely been on land since. That was 8 years ago now.

From starting on an 8’6, I moved up to a 10’ within my first 2 years surfing. Something about the big boards intrigued me. To be knee paddling over rolling waves, wind at my back, watching the sets coming closer was, and still is, a favorite feeling of being on the water.

I also come from a background of serious dancing. I started ballet, along with a few other styles, when I was 3 years old and was a performer for many years. Being on stage in front of a huge crowd is such a rush, and the way I get that feeling now is gliding down the face of a wave.

Being a natural performer, I wanted to compete in surfing as soon as I felt comfortable riding a clean wave. The first contest I took part in was the Ripcurl Stew (now the Ripcurl Pro) here in Tofino. The category was mixed longboard and I was up against some incredibly talented males and a couple other brave girls.

There was no hope for me, but I didn’t care. It’s not often you get to surf in many places with only a few other people. Contest surfing is a great chance to do that!

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My competitive nature has made me surf in many contests, ranking in the top 3 at quite a few now and winning the 2012 Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic down in Pacific City, Oregon. Back in 2009, I got the crazy notion to head down to California and be the first Canadian to compete in an ASP sanctioned Longboard Qualifying Series event. I got last in my heat, but the experience was something I’ll never forget.

I paddled for a total of 11 waves, while the girl that won the heat, only 4. I learned a very valuable lesson out there that day. Relax. The ocean provides when you calm down and wait. This is a lesson I apply to my contests, free surfing, and life in general. Patience really is a virtue. I feel so blessed to wake up and have the health, strength, and determination to get myself out in the elements every day. It’s not easy, and it’s definitely not the life for everyone. But if you’re willing to give up the conveniences of being in a big city, life out here on the west coast of Canada, with a population of about 3,000- you learn the true ways of living in harmony with the planet.

Canada’s

Emily Ballard Photos: Nick Sopczak www.nicksopczakphotography.com

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Canada’s

Emily Ballard

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Most of Vancouver Island is logged now, but there are a few intact old-growth forests left.

Some of them lie right next to some perfect rock points on the south west coast of the island. . .

I lived down there for a short while, but total lack of jobs forced me back to Tofino. I sometimes wish the island was just like California, with boardwalks on all of the beaches, and easy access to all the spots. And then I think, no. The island is perfect just the way it is. Not too many people can live with the 10 feet+ rain we get yearly either. I love it! F wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 159

SURFING

By Sandra Olson The roads are winding and narrow, hemmed in by old stone houses covered in dense moss. Lush fields are dotted with picturesque snowballs- sheep, and Welsh ponies graze in the distance. Like something out of a fairy tale, we’ve found ourselves deep in the heart of Wales, with an overall temperature in the mountains somewhere around 60 degrees, and though the sun is shining, there’s a cool chill in the Welsh wind. We’re told we can’t miss our next stop… SURF SNOWDONIA! Having been on the road in Europe for a few weeks already, our bodies are aching for some time in the water, to loosen up stiff muscles and regain that sense of familiarity again. Having never surfed Europe or a wavegarden of this stature before, we were excited to add another surf pin on the map and see for ourselves what the buzz was all about. After spending the night in a nearby charming B&B called “Llwyn Onn Guest House, Betws-Y-Coed” (you should stay there- what a fantastic place!), we were on the road and ready for our adventure. Only a half an hour up the road, we are greeted by the large Surf Snowdonia sign looming ahead. We had made it. We were ready to surf WALES. Geographically located hours from any coastal surf access, and that access only offering fickle, windy swells at best, surfers in the UK are at the luck of the draw when looking for good surf. Surf Snowdonia offers them a consistent wave and a chance to stay in shape and hone their skills, so that when the swells and conditions DO align, they’re ready. The stoke on these surfer’s faces is unmistakable, and you can feel the energy in the air. Snowdonia is about having FUN! We made our way to the front desk, which is rather impressive with all the many packages and options available listed, and doors leading seemingly everywhere-- depending on what your activity is going to be for the day. Although the Crash and Splash Lagoon looks fun, we’re there to SURF, so after checking in and confirming our scheduled surf time slot, we received our wetsuits, and headed off to the surf shop to get our board rentals. Unlike many rentals you’ll find elsewhere in the world, Surf Snowdonia offers quality, real surfboards that are surprisingly up-to-par, and for only £10, it’s totally worth not hauling your own around. After finding exactly what we wanted to ride, we make our way back to the “holding area” where we met with one other surfer that will be sharing the “heat” with us. The lifeguard explains the rotation and where to sit in order to catch the “expert” waves, and we were off!

Toes finally in the water, we were stoked to find that it was not that cold after all, and was relatively clean due to the wavegarden being fed by a mountain spring atop one of the nearby mountains, which rotates the water. This allows for filtration as well as a chance for the pool to be warmed 160 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

by the sun during the day, making the water temp pretty comfortable in a wetsuit.

We paddle on over to the sign marking the expert area, where Dan was up first. We heard the engine turn on, and the wave began approaching. It felt so different than being on shore, to be right next to the caged-in machine, with water rushing all around you. It was exciting and my heart began to pound. As it raced toward him, Dan leapt to his feet and surfed away… well, not really away towards shore as you traditionally would surf, but rather TOWARDS the center column. It’s a strange experience-- surfing away from the breaking wave towards an obstacle-without reaching it, and rather hard to explain. It’s easy to get in your head and overthink it, but if you just let your surfing instincts take over, and charge the face, everything (almost) feels like regular surfing.

My turn was next, and I heard the sound of the machine as it chugged towards me, creating a 6’ wake that again, looks much bigger in the water than from shore. Paddling hard, I dropped into my first Welsh wave, and surfed on down the line, finding the little pockets and sections that helped me keep my speed going. Wow! Strange, exciting, fast, slow... A mix of emotions ran through my body as I felt that familiar surf stoke flood through me. I exited, and submerged into the chilly water. Breaking the surface, I noticed something unfamiliar... Fresh water.

Having always surfed in an ocean (other than once at Typhoon Lagoon in Florida), surfing in fresh water is very strange indeed.

It tastes funny, and paddles differently.

We took turns, surfing wave after wave for an hour, then caught our last wave in- ready to get warm, but sad to leave the surf. We could see that with practice, this wavegarden could be a LOT of fun due to its consistency and wave quality.

HOT showers warmed us back up in the dressing rooms, and surf stoked- we dropped off our suits to dry, then made our way up to the dining area for some food.

What a treat, pizza and pasta salad after a fun surf, while sitting directly opposite the wavegarden so we don’t miss a second of the action. Designed for the best views, Surf Snowdonia has really made the effort to allow family members or non-surfers, the opportunity to be a part of the surfing experience, while remaining in warmth and comfort indoors.

Surf Snowdonia is well maintained, offers clean water, with professional and welcoming staff, all together making our surf experience one we will never forget, and someday, when we find ourselves back in Wales again, we look forward to another surf session there. It’s worth the drive and the approximately £50 per person to ride, as it’s something most people will never get to do. Surfing in Wales? It’s a full mind and body sensory experience, and you’ll want to plan on spending a half day there at least, perhaps scheduling (two) one hour sessions so you can relax in between them and really soak in the beautiful surroundings and experience.

You could also rent one of their “glamping pods” and stay the night, which gives you access to the surfside hot tubs and saunas. Refuel your body with a traditional Welsh breakfast, or light snacks and freshly prepared foods available throughout the day at the Surf Side Cafe and Bar. Book your wave session by visiting www.surfsnowdonia.com F

Dama going backside A view of Zurriola beach and La Concha from Mount UlĂ­a

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Marta, Natalia and Ioana

Big swells come in winter, the time all big wave surfers wait for throughout the year.This is Playa Gris- between Zaratuz and Zumaia. 20 mins. from San Sebastian

San Sebastian..

A surf city gem of the

Basque Country

Words by Grace Chinn | Photos by Ale Romo

Tucked away in a green and wet little corner of northeast Spain, where mountains dip into the temperamental Cantabrian Sea and just shy of where Spain morphs into France lies San Sebastian, jewel of the Spanish Basque Country.

The fact that this corner of the world is home to two official tongues, with Basque being unrelated to any other known language, just adds to the allure. Understandably, this has resulted in a local community often referred to as closed to outside influence and somewhat isolated from the rest of Spain. When you’re in the Basque Country you might be on Spanish soil, but the roots are Basque and they run deep.

Now peaceful after a troubled past, more and more people are succumbing to the area’s charms, particularly since San Sebastian was crowned European Capital of Culture 2016. At the risk of sounding like a tourist board advert, it’s not hard to see why visitors are coming in droves, drawn in by the recipe for holiday success: a stunning seaside city complete with a story book old town, innovative pintxos (Basque version of tapas) and nature everywhere you look.

Yes, it goes without saying that San Sebastian, or Donostia in Basque, is easy on the eye and a unique kind of natural-gastronomical-cultural paradise, especially when you add to the mix its prime location on the axis between surf-rich northern Spain and the south of France, referred to as the French California, which boasts a tantalising array of beach breaks. Did I mention that you can ski or snowboard just a couple of hours away in the Pyrenees?

In the city itself, the surf beach La Zurriola lies a 10-minute amble from the city centre, with hip neighbourhood Gros and Mount Ulia as a backdrop. Where else in the world can you jump in the water wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 163

Some laughs with the girls Maddi, Karin and Natalia

Surf in La Concha bay. Surf’s only possible here in winter, but the view is worth the effort

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for a surf, fuel up on gourmet pintxos then wash them down with local cider?

It will come as no surprise then, that Donostia is home to a growing population of female surfers, myself included. There was something about this particular community that intrigued surf and lifestyle photographer Ale Romo and I. We wanted to know more.

That’s why last winter we brought together 10 surfistas - young mothers, industry entrepreneurs, foreigners who fell in love with the city and promising young surf talent - to hear what they had to say.

One thing these women have in common is that they, in one way or another, fell in love with surfing and have set up their lives around surf. There was also no disagreement that Donostia has some special ingredients that make it a great surf city. Natalia sums it up: “It’s an ideal place to lead a surf life. It’s a very complete city: cosmopolitan but very accessible. I know lots of foreigners who came to Donostia as tourists but have stayed to form a life here.”

This is true of Katja, an architect from Germany, who found her way to surfing in the mid 90’s when, after watching The Endless

Summer on repeat, she ended up working in a surf camp in France as a surf instructor. Coming to San Sebastian on an exchange programme in ’99, Katya was one of few females in the water, along with fellow German, Katrin. The newcomers to the city weren’t always made to feel welcome: “They (the local surfers) weren’t so open to us being here. When I started, one local guy was always yelling at me saying I was catching his waves and that this was his beach.”

Following her year in San Sebastian, Katja tried living in Germany, Portugal, Brazil and Madrid but was drawn back to San Sebastian by the magic combination of easy access to waves and work opportunities. She is now settled here with her family: “It’s a perfect city: you can go on foot to the surf. It’s not the best surf in the world but you can combine it with work. Before I had kids I used to surf three times a day: early before work, at lunchtime and after work.”

The local surfers tell similar stories. University lecturer and mother Alaitz got hooked on surfing in the mid 90’s when Marta Huércanos, four-time Spanish champion and the pioneering local female surfer, was among a handful of women on the waves. “I’m stub-

San Sebastian..

A surf city gem of the

Basque Country

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Karin enjoying the last rays of sunlight

A typical crowded summer afternoon in Zurriola beach. This spot is at the end of the beach, and is called Monpas

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A sunset from the Boulevard near La Concha

Maddi doing what she knows best in an almost closing right

San Sebastian..

A surf city gem of the

Basque Country

born so I started alone”, Alaitz laughs as she tells us of her introduction to surfing, painting quite the picture of donning a boy’s wetsuit, doubled in half because it drowned her delicate frame, and heading for the beach armed with a borrowed beat-up old board. Little by little she integrated herself into the local surf scene at a time when she recalls a marked hierarchy but a good atmosphere.

Even just a few years later when Elise got into surfing the feeling in the water had shifted, echoing Katja’s experience: “Sometimes the guys helped and encouraged me, but other times they would say ‘if you don’t know how to surf, go somewhere else’. It was frustrating, but over time I found my space on the beach.”

At the other end of the scale from the veteran surfers is Josune, who caught her first wave just two years ago, an experience which has changed her life course. It inspired the fashion distributor to ditch the high heels for flip flops and launch her own line of bespoke surf onesies, Tails ‘n’ Tales, allowing her to combine her passions for clothes and the sea.

Another local who has dived head first into the surf industry is Dama.

Working for Basque surf brand Pukas in their shop on La Zurriola beach means she can live, breathe and eat surf on a daily basis. Her infectious love of the ocean has led her to travel the world in search of waves and she has come home hoping to see some changes in the local surf culture in coming years: more generations of females and more respect in the water.

Respect in the water aside, Donostia does offer its residents and visitors alike the chance to experience all four seasons in one day; in the blink of an eyelid on any given day in summer you can go from basking on the beach in glorious sunshine to sheltering from the rain.

It can be quite the experience.

So, apart from the changeable weather, what’s the catch? I’m not going to sugar coat it, ask any local the downside of surfing here and they will say “the crowds”, especially in summer. I suppose that’s the payback for being able to walk barefoot from your apartment to the waves in a matter of minutes. That’s why, Natalia explains, “the real fun begins in September when the crowds thin out, the weather tends wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 167

Marta, Natalia and Katja, showing some love between surfers Spontaneous fun! From left to right: Katja, Natalia, Eli, Merche, Marta, Alaitz, Elise & Dama

Alaitz manages to get a beautiful left in the challenging conditions

Getting ready for small conditions, but fun. Of course, it’s already crowded as heck!

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to be amazing and the water is warm, even into the start of November.” On the flip side, “January and February are tough”, she says, “If I could take two months off the calendar, it would be those.”

Nevertheless, for many of these women, they wouldn’t want to call anywhere else home. As Alaitz puts it: “I would only leave if I had a return ticket!”

We want to say a huge thanks to all the women who took part in this project:

So, after seeing the surfers in action and hearing their tales, I want to end with this: an idea which has come to the surface while writing this article is that San Sebastian seems to lack a unified female surf community. This was actually pointed out by a couple of the ladies and, if you ask me, I’d have to say that I agree. Having experienced surf life in places like Australia and Peru, where I saw gangs of women surfing religiously together, I can’t say I’ve witnessed that here.

Also, a special thanks to the talented local ladies who helped bring this project to life:

But perhaps bringing these women together through this project will help to foster a stronger local community of surfing women, fulfilling Ale’s secret wish all along! If what Alaitz says about Basque people in general is anything to go by then it might take a while, but it could be the start of something beautiful: “People say we’re closed. It is true that it’s hard for us to open up but it’s also true that once we do, we open up deeply and from the heart.” F

• • • •

Maddi Aizpurua Ioana Celayaran Natalia Domit Karin Frisch

• • • •

Dama Martínez Eli Oihaneder Elise Toledo Marta Ruíz

• Katja Wert • Merche Maider • Alaitz Mendizabal

• Tala Letamendia from Pukas Surf Shop: www.pukassurf.com • Amaia Ruíz: www.amaiamakeup.com • Amaia Olmedo: www.lesdoit.net

Links: • Tails ‘n’ Tales: www.tailsntalesofsea.com • Flow Knitters: www.etsy.com/es/shop/FLOWKNITTERS • Grace Chinn: www.graceintheflow.com (Grace Chinn is a translator, traveller and ocean lover from Scotland who currently has her bags unpacked in Switzerland) • Ale Romo: www.aleromophotography.com • Donostia European Capital of Culture 2016: http://www.dss2016.eu/en/

Merche on her longboard takes a big right, astonishing the crowd Natalia, a very experienced surfer, showing her skills

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(above / clockwise)

v The girls posing at the river in front of the famous Maria Cristina hotel

San Sebastian A surf city gem of the

Basque Country

v Marta scores a small right v I caught Alaitz in a beautiful moment...

For me she’s the surfer version of Jane Birkin

v Ioana getting a little pealer v Ioana and Marta at the beach near the river v Katja gets a nearly on-shore left

The Basque Country hosts a vast Geopark route of Flysch cliffs which history dates back more than 60 million years. This is between Zumaia and Deba, where a famous surf spot meets the cliffs.

It’s only 30 minutes from San Sebastian.

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Night time at the lodge Photo: Tia Calvo

“ Tia heads out for a session Photo: Paolo Lopez Zubiaurr

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A night surf is the best method of crowd avoidance.

We would sneak out for 1 a.m. full moon surfs. During one night surf, the power went out. Sitting in the lineup looking to shore, everything went black. It was quiet and peaceful, surfing by the light of the oil flares in the desert. A little piece of Lobitos magic.

�

Sunset at Lobitos Photo: James Vybiral

W

Lost In

Lobitos

By Tia Calvo

A hidden secret – quiet perfection in the desert.

An old oil and military town, Lobitos lay abandoned until being discovered by surfers.

The wind howls, the dust blows and the waves peel.

hat motivated me to leave the comfort of my couch to explore this inhospitable landscape? Passion, adventure, avoidance of the day to day life? Pick an answer. But it always comes back to one thing – the hunt for waves and the rush of a new place. The freedom of no boundaries.

So what type of person goes to Lobitos? Who visits this crazy desert town? It attracts an eclectic mix.

From the non-surfing hippies, bumming around experimenting with the local Peruvian hallucinogenic, to packs of over-enthusiastic Brazilian surfers. It’s an international crowd.

But how did I end up staying for so long? Stepping beyond my role of surf tourist, I somehow found myself the new manager of the Lobitos Lodge. I felt like an alien. Frustration and headache would be the best two words to describe it. Imagine the challenges that come with business management.

Teaching staff, organizing, scheduling… it was all in Spanish. Spending every day, all day, just trying to communicate in a language I didn’t understand.

The simplest things became impossible.

But the hardest part was trying to forge relationships. I wanted so badly to talk, to laugh, to interact with my staff.

View from the lodge | Photo: Tia Calvo wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 173

“

Some mornings I’d wake up to perfection, like a snapshot straight out of a magazine.

The waves would start beyond the point and peel for miles down the beach. Waves so long you’d roll in on your belly and jog back up to the point for another. It was too long to paddle back out. But often the crowd made it tough. So I took to late evening paddles, staying out so late I couldn’t see the sets rolling in. Surfing with my senses in the twilight.

Just me and the phosphorescent plankton sparkling in the water.

”

(above/below) photos: James Vybiral

(below) Tia heads out for some ocean therapy, (above) Tia and staff at the lodge Photos: Paolo Lopez Zubiaurr

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Lobitos

Lost In

Tia Calvo at Lobitos Photo: Kaiquin Castro Botto wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 175

Photo: Salah Roberto Calderon

Lobitos

Lost In

Photo: James Vybiral 176 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

Consider the difference between the two cultures, first world and third. It was everything from catching the bus, to pay rates, food, money, life. But peel all of that away and it’s nothing. We’re all just people.

How crazy was it to run the lodge? The craziest thing I’ve ever done. 5:30 am until bed time taking care of people. Breaking water systems, power shortages, staff strikes, caring for clients.

How did I handle things? I handled it by surfing. Everything could be falling apart, but when the waves were on, nothing mattered...

Above: Local fishermen, bringing in their catch Photo: Tia Calvo Left: Camera men on the watchtower at Lobitos, at sunset | Photo: James Vybiral Below: Tia, at home at the lodge Photo: Paolo Lopez Zubiaurr

... Hot water’s out, no power… no problems.

There’s a silent electricity in the air. No one talks; it’s just grab your morning coffee in the dark, squeeze into your wetsuit and run like hell down the beach.

No matter what was going on, I always made time for the waves. One Lobitos barrel makes everything ok. F

Visit the Lobitos Lodge: www.lobitoslodge.com.pe/en/index.php

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Casa Sunzal | www.airbnb.com/rooms/10339621

SUNZAL

By Sandra Olson

We could never grow tired of visiting El Salvador. The excitement of a culture and economy so different from what we know in the United States is alluring, and a simpler life, filled with delicious meals, kind people, and incredible surf, are just some of the many things that have called us back every year since 2011.

Most people will warn you not to go to El Salvador, after all, guerrillas, gangs and violent crime dominate the news and would make you think the whole country had spiraled into danger and desperation.

But nothing could be further from the truth. While gang violence and civil waresque environments can still be found, it’s all about where you go, and who you’re with.

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“

We leave something of ourselves behind when we leave a place, we stay there, even though we go away. And there are things in us that we can find

”

again only by going back there.

- Pascal Mercier

Author of “Surfer Girls Kick Ass”, Tiffany Manchester, charging Sunzal, El Salvador Photo: Rudy Ortiz wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 179

“

To move, to breathe, to fly, to float, To gain all while you give, To roam the roads of lands remote,

�

To travel is to live.

- Hans Christian Andersen

Dan Olson | Photo: L. Stewart

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El Tunco, El Salvador | Photo: Gabeto Fernandez

SUNZAL Staying close to the coastlines eliminates the majority of said dangers, and renting a safe and comfortable beach house can be easily done with a little research. A bonus? Most house rentals come with a groundskeeper/ caretaker, that also doubles as a security guard and driver, and their family members are often available for cooking, cleaning and laundry, at a fraction of US prices, making it an affordable surf destination. Best of all?

You’re supporting the local economy, and these families.

One such beach house that stole our hearts is owned by a Salvadoran that we’ve grown to love, Myrna Melgar, who splits her time between her family’s home in Sunzal, and San Diego, CA. Located on the coast only 35 minutes from San Salvador airport, CASA SUNZAL is ideally located within just a few minutes’ walk from Sunzal, an amazing right-hand point break.

We’ve been drawn to this house because of its simplicity, cozy and romantic pool, safe gated grounds, and enough beds to sleep up to 10 people, making it a great property for groups and families. The full kitchen allows for easy and convenient meal preparation, which is a great way to control your budget, and a quick 5 minute walk down the street gives you access to a Salvadoran favorite, Pupusas! wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 181

Outdoor lounge at Casa Sunzal

Poolside at Casa Sunzal

El Tunco, El Salvador | Photo: Gabeto Fernandez

Dan, Limousina & Chepe- Casa Sunzal’s property manager & driver

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Justin & Dan, riding the local bus for 25 cents Casa Sunzal

A simple yet tasty local food made from masa (corn flour), shaped into small patties and filled with cheese, frijoles or meat, then pan fried to perfection and topped with cabbage and salsa, for only 50 cents each. You’re able to stuff yourself without breaking the bank and again, you’re also supporting the hard working locals.

Want a little more than pupusas and don’t feel like cooking? The nearby town of El Tunco offers everything you need for a great surf vacation. From unique, multilevel surf bars, to pizza, ice cream, surf shops, shopping and nightlife, El Tunco is a friendly little surf town that you’ll find yourself cruising the beach to, almost daily.

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CJ at Casa Sunzal

Casa Sunzal | www.airbnb.com/rooms/10339621

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Pat Williams aka “Tio Pa’tio” | Sunzal, El Salvador | Photo: Rudy Ortiz

SUNZAL But the real reason we’re there... the surf!

Out of 12 countries and over 80+ breaks that we’ve surfed over the past 20 years, Sunzal ranks in the top 3 of my personal, all-time favorite waves.

A wave that seemingly breaks almost every day, Sunzal works best on SW swells, and is a deep water reef break.

Because of its perfection, it can often get crowded which makes staying nearby a must-do, so that you can check conditions hourly, taking advantage of when the crowds thin out, tidal changes, or early morning dawn patrols.

This thick and rolling, gentle (but can get gnarly on the right swell), amazing wave offers multiple take-off areas that gives surfers the opportunity to pick up a wave when someone falls off, and/or, if you’re the lucky one that scored a wave on the outside, you can work it through to the inside, connecting 3 peaks of seemingly never ending perfect walls.

This allows for enough turns to leave your legs burning! It’s a wave that’s a joy to surf at 3’ or 15’, and with the Kayu Bar located directly in front of the wave with its three-levels of viewing and dining areas, grabbing a bite to eat and refueling while cheering your friends on out front, IS your day-to-day reality.

So if paradise to you sounds like surfing an amazing wave until your arms can’t possibly paddle another stroke, followed by lazy afternoons spent soaking in the pool, lounging in a hammock or sleeping in a/c to cool your sunburned skin, while immersed in a friendly and welcoming culture, then grab your board, book a plane ticket to El Salvador, and let the adventures begin!

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- Miriam Beard

El Tunco at sunset, El Salvador | Photo: Jess Gorton

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By Sandra Olson With the allure of warm, crystal blue waters, Barbados, located near the southeastern tip of the Caribbean, is a dream vacation destination.

The very sound of it conjures up images of white sandy beaches, tropical drinks topped with tiny little umbrellas, and endless sunny days spent at the beach, relaxing to the melodic, rhythmic beat of a steel drum band.

Surfing isn’t likely to be the first thing that comes to mind, but for those looking for a new and unexplored surf destination, Barbados offers modern amenities, picturesque and mostly gentle warm water waves, and some of the friendliest people on the planet!

They’re happy you’re on their island, and are quick to lend a helping hand should you need one, or just smile and wave enthusiastically as you pass by.

When considering Barbados as a surf destination for a WSSM Retreat, we knew we would need local knowledge of the surf breaks, quality surfboard rentals, and surfer friendly accommodations that were close to the surf- therefore allowing everyone to surf on their own schedule. To secure this information firsthand, Dan and I arrived several days earlier than the rest of the group to check out the island, find the best cuisine, and get

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SCENIC PHOTOS: SANDRA OLSON | CONDO PHOTOS: LUXELIFE BARBADOS

Above & top right: The view from our balcony at the Sapphire Beach Condos, in Christ Church. As you can see, these condos are pretty amazing, amenity packed, with spectacular views that stretch away into the Caribbean

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acquainted with the area- which would include perfecting our skills of driving on the wrong (left) side of the road.

Prior to arrival, and to really get a feel for what Barbados offers, we contacted LuxeLife Barbados- a luxury lifestyle management and travel concierge service that not only met us at the airport to help us navigate customs, immigration and luggage retrieval, but prior to arrival, helped us find the perfect condo in the heart of the action of the bustling St. Lawrence Gap area, and gifted us a bevy of locally produced chocolates and cookies in our room!

They offered suggestions for and helped us organize our first few days on the island, and lined up one activity in particular that we loved-- the JAMMIN Catamaran Cruise.

A snorkeler’s lazy day delight, the Caribbean came to life on JAMMIN’s well equipped, spacious catamaran as we sailed the gorgeous Barbados coastline, listening to steel drum Caribbean music and enjoying the afternoon ocean breezes. What perfection! We watched as the crew fed the giant sea turtles that visited our catamaran like clockwork, and after snorkeling the reef looking for tropical fish and exploring a small sunken ship, we relaxed on the open deck, soaking in the fresh breeze. Sailing back to port, we were blessed with a spectacular sunset.

Thank you, LuxeLife Barbados!

Our first few nights were spent in the St. Lawrence Gap area in Christ Church, at the beautiful Sapphire Beach Condos.

BREATHTAKINGLY beautiful, the Sapphire Beach Condos give you everything you ever dreamed of in a Barbados vacation, and even more.

Ideally located on gorgeous Dover beach, it’s perfect for wading or swimming, and watching sunsets that streak across the sky in a brilliant display of vivid colors. Its amenities include a meandering oceanfront pool and loungers that front the beach, full kitchens in each of the units, stunning oceanview bedrooms that drench you in dreamy views that stretch for miles, and large spalike bathrooms that leave you feeling pampered.

With all this comfort, it was hard to check out and move on, but we were ready for the next step in our adventure, and for our guests to arrive.

The Sapphire Beach Condos were too far from the surf for our guests, who in true surfer form, wanted to spend every waking

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LEFT PAGE: 1) Bebe Davis returning from Surfer’s Point | 2) Surf stoked, Michelle Olson & Ariel Macrae high-five after an evening session at Surfer’s Point 3) Bebe Davis awards the “WSSM Surf Dog” to Michelle Olson | 4) WSSM retreat ladies: Cindy, Michelle, Tara, Bebe, Ariel, Gail. Beth- enjoying St. Lawrence Gap | 5) Tara Walker & Bebe Davis share a mother/daughter wave at Surfer’s Point - #familygoals | 6) Gail Walter living her dream, surfing Parlours RIGHT PAGE: 1) The boats really do look like this in Barbados! #lifeisapostcard | 2) Cindy Stokes & Beth Buchanan headed back out to the lineup for more | 3) Vans loaded, heading down the steep hills into Bathsheba | 4) Gail Walter: CLAIM’N! | 5) Tara Walker, Michelle Olson, Cindy Stokes at Parlours

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LEFT PAGE: top) Pat Williams “Tio Pa’tio”, Tara Walker, and Ariel Macrae paddle out to Surfer’s Point, located a short walk from Ocean Spray Apartments | 1) WSSM photographer, Gabeto Fernandez, capturing the retreat magic #eternallygrateful | 2) Gail Walter & Beth Buchanan walk to Surfer’s Point- Ocean Spray Apartments is in the background | 3) Will never get tired of this view RIGHT PAGE: 1) Ocean Spray Apartments, ideally located at Surfer’s Point, a perfect wave for beginner-intermediate surfers - www.oceansprayapartments.com | 2) Ariel Macrae dancing on Caribbean H2O

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minute possible out surfing, so we knew the Ocean Spray Beach Apartments in the nearby town of Inch Marlow, would be perfect for our group. Located in front of Surfer’s Point, a left-hand point break that was beginner friendly and consistent, we had exactly what we needed... Comfortable, oceanfront, Barbados bungalow style accommodations, with direct access to uncrowded, mellow waves.

Boasting picturesque ocean views, OCEAN SPRAY BEACH APARTMENTS offers 25 ecofriendly rooms that sleep single travelers all the way up to large groups, making it an excellent choice for our group of twelve.

Tucked away from the noise of the city, the stars overhead will keep you gazing in wonder as you bask in the tranquility of the environment. Waves crashing on the nearby rocky shoreline lull you to sleep, and you awake to sunshine dancing on the water outside your door, just beckoning you to come and play in it.

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Melanie Pitcher, a local who knows the Barbadian surf scene inside and out, runs several vacation rentals as well as her Barbados Surf Trips company in the northern coastal town of Bathsheba, and who had been featured previously in WSSM years ago, was our go-to for everything surf-related. She had a plethora of quality surfboard rentals for our guests to choose from (and she delivered) and she also knew a lot of the local girls, so she was essential in organizing our WSSM “Girl’s Surf Day” in Bathsheba. Giving back to the community is key whenever we take a group somewhere, so getting together with and supporting the local surfer girl community was important to all of us. Throughout the afternoon, our group grew and grew until there were 25 of us, lounging on the rolling hills fronting the beach, and enjoying the small surf at Parlours.

Although Melanie said it was probably the smallest surf she’d seen that year, we laughed, surfed, ate, surfed some more, and enjoyed the day together, while Gabeto Fernandez, our WSSM photographer, captured it all through his lens. Thank you to all the ladies that came out for the day and shared your waves with us- we loved meeting you all

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LEFT PAGE: 1) Group shot at the “Girl’s Surf Day with WSSM” at Parlours in Bathsheba. A fun afternoon spent with these local surfer girls of Barbados. Thank you for sharing your beautiful waves with all of us! | 2) Jodie Burke | 3) Jodie Mather | 4) Tara Walker | 5) Cindy Stokes | 6) Beth Buchanan | 7) Kelsey Pitcher | 8) Local, Antonio Holder & Dan Olson | 9) Jamie Adley photographs girlfriend, Tara Walker | 10) Darian Pitcher | 11) Yasmine Pagésy (surfing), Jodie Mather RIGHT PAGE: 1) Dayna Gibbs | 2) Dan Olson | 3) Melanie Pitcher | 4) Michelle Olson | 5) John & Dan Olson | 6) Sleeping on the way home to Ocean Spray Apartments | 7) Jessica Gibbs | 8) Kalani Talma 9) Bebe Davis | 10) Arriving into Bathsheba to surf | 11) Pat Williams “Tio Pa’tio” | 12) Relaxing on the beach in between sessions

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and surfing with you! And thank you, Melanie!

As it does when you’re having fun, time flew by too quickly as we woke up each morning knowing our day included surfing the Point until our arms wore out, enjoying a full and leisurely breakfast at the spacious open air palapa at Ocean Spray Beach Apartments, and then piling into the vans for more surf and island exploration.

The great thing about traveling, is that everywhere you go you’re experiencing something new, even if that’s just getting lost on the winding roads that are never clearly marked in Barbados- AGAIN. And the surf, even if it’s small, is different than what you have at home, making it an adventure in itself. Although we would start our day at Surfer’s Point, group consensus was that the surf at Parlours was bigger, so we would usually end up there for our second session of the day, then head into the heart of St. Lawrence Gap for dinner, where the “WSSM Surf Dog” award was given away. This was always a highlight of the night, as the recipient would get to autograph the (stuffed animal) dog, and then give it away the following night to a fellow guest of their choice, for the reason of their choice. Best wipe-out was usually the winning criteria, as was most-stoked surfer of the day or longest ride.

SANDRA OLSON

As our trip drew to a close, we knew we had made new surf buddies for life on this Barbados adventure, and we were sad to say goodbye. There is a special chemistry on our retreat trips. The mix of personalities, relaxed vibes, as well as all skill levels and geographical origins present that provide an environment that’s rich for storytelling, and learning from each other’s travel adventures. Gabeto, our Columbian photographer, keeps things light and the girls love not only his accent, but also his Central American sense of humor, and taking home the precious memories he’s captured from their experience is priceless. By becoming a part of our traveling family, they also get a peek into our lives, as creators of WSSM, hanging out and surfing-- and it all often ends up in the pages of WSSM! Barbados was an amazing surf destination-- although it doesn’t offer the huge barrels of Pipeline, or the death defying drops of Jaws or Mavericks, it instead gave us all a much simpler, incredibly beautiful environment where we could just relax, play in the surf, enjoy the moment together and be present. Laughter was abundant, sunshine was just-hot enough, we ALL got waves, and we came back better rested and bronzed from the experience. What more could you ask for? F

CHELSEA ROETT THE LOCAL SURFER GIRLS & SANDRA

A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO: OCEAN SPRAY BEACH APARTMENTS oceansprayapartments.com Offering 25 eco-conscious apartments, oceanfront in Woman’s Bay in Inch Marlow, directly overlooking the world famous Surfer’s Point which is ranked as one of the best places to learn to surf in Barbados.

BARBADOS SURF TRIPS barbadossurftrips.com Dedicated to helping you get the most out of your surfing vacation, by offering accommodations for all budgets, car rentals, surf tours, surf lessons, stand-up paddle boarding, surfboard rentals, airport meetand-greet and transfers, island tours and activities, wave reports, and more.

LUXELIFE BARBADOS luxelifebarbados.com A luxury lifestyle management and travel concierge, whom you can trust to recommend to you the very best, handpicked luxury properties and more, in Barbados.

SAPPHIRE BEACH CONDOS barbadossapphirebeach.com One of the finest luxury condominiums in Barbados, located on the fabulous Dover Beach in Christ Church. This vacation villa rental boasts spectacular ocean views and modern finishes that show top quality craftsmanship, while offering a level of comfort, elegance and amenities found primarily in luxury west coast villas.

HARBOUR LIGHTS BARBADOS harbourlightsbarbados.com Be mesmerized at Harbour Lights. Whether you come for the crystal clear Carlisle Bay waters, the entertaining Caribbean dinner show or to party the night away on a sand covered dance floor, one thing is for sure, Harbour Lights is always a time to remember!

JAMMIN CATAMARAN CRUISES jammincats.com One of the newest recreational catamarans cruising the coastal waters of Barbados, this eye-catching 63-ft. craft has all the ingredients necessary for a fun day in the sun! The Jammin’ crew, with their dynamic personalities and friendly dispositions, ensure a truly extraordinary day on the water, and all cruises offer buffet meals onboard and a complimentary well stocked bar. In the water, activities include swimming with the turtles and snorkeling.

SARAH COLE

BARRELLICIOUS www.barrellicious.com A BIG thanks to Lara Brown, founder of Barrellicious, for sponsoring all of our retreat guests with a fabulous, comfy Barrellicious rashguard! Under the Caribbean sun, you kept us all cool and COLORFUL!

YASMINE PAGESY PHOTOS: GABETO FERNANDEZ

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Southern EXPLORING

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By Sandra Olson | Photos By: Gabriel Fernandez

The plane engines whir loudly as I peer out the window at the barren desert landscape below.

We were almost there.

We were almost to Baja, Mexico.

Growing up I’d heard stories from my uncles, Pat and Tom, about their many epic surf trips to Baja in the late 70’s and 80’s, before there were any major roads, or road signs for that matter, and where they virtually surfed alone at many of the breaks. Depending solely on their God- given skills as mechanics to fix whatever might go wrong with their vehicles, they trekked hundreds of miles along the barren coastline, seeking out local knowledge for advice on finding renowned surf spots, as well as new spots that had no name at that time. They faced challenges and dangers I had always admired, but didn’t want to experience personally, because although surfing there was something I knew was on my bucket list, I wanted to do it safely.

Los Cabos is made up of two major towns, located on the southernmost tip of the Baja peninsula. While the majority of the landscape in Baja has remained relatively unchanged, the hotspot surfing area of San Jose Del Cabo now brims with restaurants, small shops and grocery stores, and in Cabo San Lucas (where the cruise ships dock), an exciting and varied nightlife. As we landed, the reality of the journey we were about to embark on began to sink in.

Stories of lost surfers, at times life-ending criminal activity, and general disappearance from society were all valid concerns that both we and our families had. But we were convinced we had to try it out for ourselves, so we had booked our airline tickets, and arranged for a trusted surf guide for several of the days that we would spend exploring both the Western coastline and the East Cape. Because this was also a scouting trip for a possible future WSSM Surf Retreat, safe accommodations were procured at the Las Olas Condominiums. We were ready for our adventure!

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HAPPY 60th BIRTHDAY Tio Pa’tio !!!

Uncle Pat Williams with nieces, CJ & Sandra

(left to right) Sandra, CJ, & Michelle

The villas here in Cabo are incredible!

La Roca (the Rock) in San Jose Del Cabo, to the right of the Las Olas Condominiums (the red roof building with the pool), with “Old Mans” in the distance | Photo: John Olson

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WSSM RETREAT ‘17 Jasmin Suayan enjoying another beautiful set out at Old Mans

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WSSM RETREAT ‘16 Above: Michelle Olson charging La Roca (the Rock) Top middle: Kerry McDonald heads out for a session Bottom middle: Dan Olson rockin’ a small sunset wave out at the Rock

rental car, as we had been forewarned of price changes and exorbitant fees upon arrival. We were happy to find an agent that spoke pretty good English and we ended up only spending about $30 a day on the vehicle. Yes, we took the roadside assistance and insurance option, as we had learned that flat tires were a common occurrence due to the road conditions here. Better to be safe than sorry. As the parking attendant pulled our vehicle around, Dan noticed our back tire was already completely flat.

Laughing, we realized we were not off to a great start! They said they would repair it and we were given another vehicle (we think).

With directions in hand, we headed out on the dusty road to San Jose Del Cabo, and quickly drove the 20 minute scenic drive from the airport. Not knowing what to expect, we were pleased to find a bustling town, complete with grocery stores and all kinds of small restaurants. After a quick burrito and stocking up on groceries, we then made our way to Las Olas Condominiums where we were greeted by a gated entrance, friendly staff, and secure parking. Reminiscent of the large condos you see dotting the shorelines on the east coast in the USA, Las Olas condos are luxury condos situated directly in front of four of the best breaks in Cabo. With its direct oceanfront and surf access, large swimming pool and three hot tubs, we knew we were in for a treat in the coming days.

Sunset was rapidly approaching, so we quickly waxed up our rental boards that our guide, Surf In Cabo, had dropped off for us. We said a quick prayer and jumped into the overhead surf that pounded the shoreline. Dropping into a new wave on a new board is always nerve-racking, but our 15 years in Hawaii had prepared us, probably over-prepared us, and we enjoyed wave after wave after wave at Middles, the wave closest to our condos. There was no need to even paddle over to La Roca (the Rock), the waves were that good! The sun set all too soon and we returned to shore, thankful to have put another pin on our surf map. Mission accomplished!

With 36 hours of traveling behind us, we took advantage of not having a schedule and slept in the next morning. The condo

we had chosen was a 1 bedroom (B502 / 5th floor) comfy cozy nest for two, with beautiful hand painted murals adorning the walls, a fully furnished kitchen, leather couches and chairs, and a beautifully remodeled bathroom with walk-in shower. The PERFECT condo!

After slamming a quick protein and banana smoothie while we watched the sets roll in below us, we took in the breathtaking view. Set after set after gorgeous smooth set, rolling across the vast ocean like corduroy. This view could NEVER get old! With hardly anyone out due to the size of the swell, we grabbed our boards and hit the surf. It was pumping! Big thick walls with a HEAVY inside section, but lots of rippable walls to carve up. Three hours later, and wave quivers full from the solid, double overhead surf, we cleaned up and headed out for lunch at Los Claros who offers “the best seafood tacos in Mexico”. We chose their “Fish Crunch”, which was huge, and incredibly tasty. We’ll be back!

Still tired from our morning session, we continued to check out the nearby area of San Jose. A stop at OXXO was a MUST as we loaded up on snacks and drinks. Such strange food here! We drove on and discovered a locals beach where kids were playing in the sand. Horses and dogs were everywhere- a real locals wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 201

Wake up to this amazing view each morning and watch the sets roll in below as you lounge in luxury.

This beautiful condo is ideal for couples looking for a little pampering and epic surf! (vrbo.com/505020)

An ariel view at sunset of Zippers, Middles, The Rock, and the Las Olas Condominiums | Photo: John Olson

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Southern Baja

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Elisa Stokes, always surfing with a smile | Old Mans

Kristin Wetzel perfecting her drop-in at Old Mans

Whit Whitley, charging it, with an almost empty lineup | The Rock

Cindy Stokes, “like mother- like daughter� smiling & laughing her way down the line | Old Mans

Therese Wolak Whitehurst enjoying herself out in the waves | Old Mans

Beth Buchanan drops in on an outside set | Old Mans

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(Photos: Gabeto Fernandez) Top left page: When you’re with good friends, even waiting between sets is rewarding. (left to right) Cindy Stokes, Kristin Wetzel, Beth Buchanan, Pat Williams “Tio Pa’tio”, and Merly Vie at Old Mans

at Middles

Above left: Justina Cutler carves her way down the line over crystal clear water at The Rock- Photo: John Olson

Below: Morning glass on a beautiful Baja morning, overlooking Old Mans Photo: Gordon May

Left: Cody Moore threading his way through an outside set at The Rock.

Above: Piper Austin and Kaydi Archer, best friends in and out of the water, sharing a wave at The Rock

Left middle: Michelle, Dan, Sandra & CJ make their way back in after a session

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Below: Our beautiful WSSM ladies, Kathy Fenton Austin, Kaydi & Buffy Archer, Piper Austin, & Kerry McDonald out for the evening in Cabo San Lucas Right: Whit Whitney heads out for an almost-solo session at The Rock.

What a view!

WSSM Retreat ‘17 James Walker, exhibiting classic longboard style and grace as he dances on the waves at Old Mans | Photo: Debbie Walker Uncle Pat Williams (“Tio Pa’tio”) paddled out each morning before the sun had fully risen and was rewarded with moments like these. We love the soft light of a Baja sunrise reflecting on him here at Old Mans. | Photo: James Walker

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beach community where we definitely stuck out. By now it was almost sunset and we decided not to surf that evening. Our arms were still so tired from the morning session. We drove back to our beautiful condo and watched the sunset dance on the glassy evening waves. It was so beautiful and calm. Baja is a magical place.

The next few days were filled with breathtaking sunrises, epic surf sessions, and worn-out, sunburned bodies. A trip to the East Cape with Surf In Cabo’s guide, Luciano, proved that not all of Baja had been developed and built up, and that magical, empty coastline my Uncles had surfed decades earlier still existed. After an hour and a half of trekking through the desert, our SUV finally arrived at Shipwrecks, where less than a dozen surfers were pulling into small glassy tubes. Luciano wasn’t thrilled about the “crowd”, so we drove another 15 minutes up the coast to La Fortuna where the swell was lined up perfectly, donkeys relaxed under the palm trees silhouetted by cactuses, and there wasn’t another surfer in sight! Luciano set up the beach umbrella, unloaded the cooler that was loaded with ice cold water and snacks, and arranged the beach chairs for our afternoon lunch and relaxation. With the heat of the desert sun beating down on us, we enjoyed having some shade to hide under in between sessions. Five hours quickly flew by and the entire time only one other couple showed up to surf. It was all ours.

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Look closely to see three of Cabo’s best surf breaks below. To the far left (opposite page) is Old Mans (look for the yellow surfboard). Now look for The Rock jutting out of the water and you’ll see a group of surfers directly inside of the rock (our group!). Now look a little further to the right, near the shore in front of the Las Olas Condominiums (the building with the red roof top, basketball court and pool)... Surf lessons are going on there at Middles. Lastly, Zippers is further to the right, but with only a small swell showing this day, it’s not quite breaking. | Photo: John Olson

WSSM Retreat ‘17 Debbie Walker, a gracious, beautiful woman and surfer both in the water and on shore, enjoys a lovely set all to herself at Old Mans | Photo: James Walker

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I could get used to this!

The week flew by all too quickly, and as we said goodbye to Baja, we knew we had found a new surf gem. Upon arrival back into the States, we were already on our phones rounding up our favorite surfers and travel buddies with the news... the next WSSM Surf Retreat was in the works! Southern Baja was the destination, and did they want to meet us there in August? Carolyn, Leah, Cody, Buffy, Kaydi, Brian, Piper, Kathy, Beth, Carolyn, Michelle, John and Uncle Pat answered the call that year, and in August 2016, we journeyed there for an amazing 10 days of sun, surf, and laughter.

We returned again in 2017, with two more groups that fell in love with Baja just as much as we did. We got to surf a variety of conditions from heavy-rain swell that picked up the desert dust, muddying it to the point that we couldn’t see our feet, to small, clear and perfectly glassy waves that were great for the beginners in our group, to well overhead and PUMPING, adrenalizing and stimulating those that needed more push and wanted to challenge themselves.

For three years we’ve seen the many beautiful swells that Baja offers and we’re now preparing for our 4th annual WSSM trip to Southern Baja to create more memories that will last a lifetime. Our favorite motto at WSSM is “Never Stop Adventuring”, and we’ve found many soul surfers that are just as stoked as we are to discover new surf destinations. We thank them for being a part of our traveling WSSM family, and look forward to may more adventures together. We love you guys! F SURF GUIDE SERVICES Big thanks to David Andrade of Surf In Cabo for arranging the awesome trip up the East Cape and Cerritos, and to Luciano for his excellent guide services! These guys know how to make you feel safe and secure, they know the best spots for swell and when conditions there are good, and are proud of and quick to share all that Baja offers... They’re ready to share it with you! www.surfincabo.com | +521 624 1179495 ACCOMMODATIONS Situated on the beach directly in front of four amazing surf breaks, Las Olas Condominiums is the perfect choice for surfers that want to stay safe, be a little pampered, and so close to the action that all you have to do is step outside and drop into waves. Each unit is individually owned, and we can personally recommend the following units to you. Well maintained, attention to customer service, and everything is EXACTLY as you expect and agreed upon. We recommend you rent these units well in advance of your stay in Baja... they’re the best in the building!

Las Olas Condominiums | UNIT: B504 A beautifully decorated 1 bedroom condo located on the 5th floor in building B, sleeps 2-4. Perfect for couples looking to escape to beachfront surfing heaven. Everything you need for a comfortable and luxurious stay is included. (www.vrbo.com/505020) Las Olas Condominiums | UNITS: B105 / B205 / B405 3 GORGEOUS and newly remodeled units all owned by the lovely Carlene Leier. Luxury, taste, and style all blend together perfectly in these exquisite, 3 bedroom condos.. Located together in building B, making them perfect for groups that want to stay close together, without sacrificing privacy. (B105: www.vrbo.com/497549 | B205: www.vrbo.com/861562 | B405: www.vrbo.com/434756) 208 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

WSSM Retreat ‘16 | Photo: Gabeto Fernandez Uncle Pat “Tio Pa’tio” and his niece & WSSM publisher, Sandra Olson, sharing a wave at Old Mans Perfectly clear for miles and miles.... and just our group out | Photo: John Olson

WSSM Retreat ‘16 | Photos: Gabeto Fernandez Above: Merlie Vie dropping in on a bomb out at Old Mans Top left: A night out in Cabo San Lucas with the gang. Love these guys! (left to right- back row) Whit, Brian, Piper, Dan, Kathy, Michelle, John, Leah. (second row) Kaydi, Beth, Kerry, Sandra, Uncle Pat “Tio Pa’Tio”, Cody, and CJ

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Casa Mariposa

sits tucked into a small, protected, almost private bay outside the beachy surf town of San Juan Del Sur, one block back from the ocean on Playa Remansos, where you can check the surf from our beautiful balcony while soaking in the view.

Nearby, the charming beach town of San Juan Del Sur is nestled in a large, calm bay that offers amazing sunsets, simple street food to upscale dining, beach bars, unique shopping including ecofriendly venues, groceries, trinkets. and more.

THE VILLA

5 Bedrooms 5 1/2 Bathrooms A/C, and excellent WiFI Large salt water pool Barbecue area On site caretakers Walk to Playa Remansos in 20 seconds Large modern kitchen fully equipped for your cooking needs 12,000 dollar state of the art water purification system Whole house backup generator Sleep in complete comfort on our superior Enso Beds (brought in from the States) Private driver available for $50 per day

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Casa Mariposa PLAYA REMANSOS, SAN JUAN DEL SUR, NICARAGUA

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www.vrbo.com/1028188

Sandra Olson throws a shaka to Damian as she glides by

BAJA WEEKENDER

S U RF T RI P

with Manny Vargas & the San Diego Surf Ladies Words By: Sandra Olson | Photos: Damian Davila (facebook.com/damiandavilafoto) Manny Vargas (www.MannyVphoto.com) | More Info: www.MannyVtours.com

S

everal years and mag issues ago, we published our first article from Michelle Winstead. She had been a guest on one of Manny Vargas’ Baja Weekender Surf Trips, and they put together a piece that was absolutely beautiful, and left me wanting to join them on a future adventure. It felt calm in that the waves looked like liquid glass in Northern Baja and easy to surf, but at the same time a little wild and rugged, like something out of an old western movie--a land where time had almost stood still. Surfing women of all ages were smiling, laughing, having fun in the water and seemed to celebrate just being alive. I wanted to be part of that fun group!

Although Manny and I had tossed around the idea of WSSM teaming up with the San Diego Surf Ladies and BWST- and creating a special weekend trip just for the magazine, a couple years passed before the stars aligned, everything fell in place, and we were finally able to join Manny and the girls on their famous Baja Weekender Surf Trips.

Having just come out of Southern Baja (you can read about that on page 206), we had pretty much surfed ourselves out the week before.

So when we learned there was going to be a small, glassy swell and a chillax weekend in store for us, we were stoked to pile into the 15 passenger van before dawn. We loaded up with stoked-out surfer ladies, more surfboards than you can imagine, luggage, munchies, and headed off on our adventure.

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From start to finish, Manny took care of all our needs. From surfboards for Dan and me, who were traveling without ours at that time, to delicious local food, to snacks and accommodations, even a delicious lobster dinner by the ocean, and safe passage every step of the way- he was on top of his game. It felt good to sit back and let someone else take care of the team and just soak it all in--in leisure! After hours of surfing, hanging out on top of the van cheering each other on, more delicious food, more surf, and a good night’s sleep, before we knew it, the weekend was gone and it was time to head back to the States. But even that, even the drive to San Diego was special because Manny loaded up all the images Damian Divila had shot during the weekend and we got to view them as we crawled our way through Mexican street vendors and bumper-tobumper traffic as we crossed back over the border.

Hearing all the “Oohh’s” and “Aahh’s”, and “Oh, I remember that wave!” moments relived with the girls made me happy to have been able to see this little slice of southern California women’s surf culture in action. Though Baja is only 45 minutes away for most of them, it was amazing what an escape could be found, stoke refueled, and a lifetime of memories created when they just took a chance... and went adventuring together, to a not-so-distant surf destination. Once again, inspired by the stoke and her surroundings, Michelle Winstead was kind enough to chronicle her experience of the trip... So turn the page to keep reading!

Top photo: The group relive and celebrate their session as they chill out under the Baja sun with cold drinks and snacks atop the van Middle left: Dan paddling out for a few quick waves Bottom two photos: The girls head out for some fun, and perfect their high fives while gliding wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 213

BAJA WEEKENDER

SURF TRIP

with Manny Vargas & the San Diego Surf Ladies

Above: Dan & Sandra atop the van- the best seat in the house for photo taking Top left: Laura Wolfgang adding beauty and grace to the lineup | Above: Sandra paddles back out This photo: The group surveys the waves with careful direction from Manny Vargas 214 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

My Not- S o - D i s tan t Surf Tr i p

by Michelle Winstead When the chance to take a surf trip within 50 miles of my home break arose, I wondered how it would measure up to seemingly more exotic and distant surf destinations. I found my answer (happily!) in an awesome Baja Weekender women’s surf trip. Several facets of the trip made it memorable, and I discovered along the way that there may even be certain advantages of a Not-So-Distant Surf Trip.

Any surf trip requires the right host or guide. Without question, the Baja Weekender delivers exactly that. Manny Vargas, a former California lifeguard turned professional bodyboarder turned commentator, turned photographer, turned Baja Weekender guide (does he ever sleep?), provides the perfect mix of safety, flexibility, cultural immersion, and all around fun. Nobody brings more stoke to the line-up. Manny’s side-kick, Damian Davila, is an ubertalented and equally fun water photographer, who draws everyone toward him and his fish-eye camera lens. Proof of Damian’s talents in photography are evident on Surfline (and also in how he magically made this 45-year-old surfer look a little less kooky while in action).

Puerto Rico. The laughter, the encouragement in the line-up, the party waves, the surfing high-fives, the stories shared, the connections made, the stoke… the trip delivered the kind of moments I will reflect on and daydream about when I’m stuck in Southern California traffic for months to come. (My apologies now if you’re ever stuck in traffic behind me during these moments.)

And the place. Baja- I love it. The coastline is kind of how I imagine California must have been 50 or 75 years ago- rugged and inviting. Empty line-ups beckon and there is a certain untamed wildness to it all that is so appealing. Fifty miles from my home break? It may as well be 500 miles away. Crossing the border into Baja transports you to another land, free from the routine concerns of everyday life.

Far away surf trips still have their appeal, but the Baja Weekender quenched my immediate yearning for a surf trip perfectly. I feel like I have discovered a new paradise, and expanded my local surf region. Baja, you are now within reach for future weekend getaways, and I thank you for the surf memories, and for renewing my belief that my best waves are still forming on the horizon. F

The right crew is also essential, and Manny put together such a fun group of women for our weekend getaway that I’m already dreaming about a reunion trip to Baja, Southern Mexico, or

Michelle Winstead finds her happy place in Baja wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 215

Top left: Lisa Acierno paddles back out for another wave Top right: Good times, laughs and high fives are guaranteed on these trips!

Far right: Cyndie Cunningham flashes a smile for the camera as she exits her wave Bottom right: Damian’s fisheye lens catches Leigh Plesniak as she paddles by This photo: Dan Olson taking a moment to pray before entering the surf 216 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

BAJA WEEKENDER SURF TRIP

with Manny Vargas & the San Diego Surf Ladies wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 217

Top left: Sarah Belange waxes up, and tip-toes to the nose Above: BAJA Weekenders founder, Manny Vargas, playing in the surf with the ladies This photo: Barb Benner Whatley- loving life in Baja with the ladies Far right: Leigh Plesniak paddling hard to drop into another gem of a wave Bottom right: Dan Olson working on his noseriding 218 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm

BAJA WE E KE NDE R

SURF TRIP

with Manny Vargas & the San Diego Surf Ladies

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but if you do it right, once is enough.

- Mae West

South Shore Oahu, Hawaii | Photo by Gregerson

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“

“ You only live once,

wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 221

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