BFW Nov-Dec 2014

November-December 2014 | www.beautyfashionworld.in

Skin CARE!

Lonza Introduces Lonzest Lipotec Launches NOCTURSHAPE Symrise SymVital Ginger Root Extract Natural Sourcing Offers Organic Virgin Coconut Oil!

Ayurveda

Bliss!

Natural Hairstyles!

& emotions!

Smell

Beauty & Cosmetics trends!

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Natural Solutions TO GLOBAL CHALLENGE!

November-December 2014 | www.beautyfashionworld.in

editorial Growth of Indian Cosmetics Industry!

India's cosmetics market is reportedly growing at 15-20 per cent annually, twice as fast as that of the US and European markets. Demand for skin whitening products by men as well as women, is driving the trend but other beauty products are not far behind.

Over the last five years, cosmetics products have seen a growth of 60 per cent.

Skin care cosmetics have experienced a relatively slower growth and products such as anti-wrinkle creams, cleansers and toners are not as popular as facial creams, moisturisers and fairness creams in this genre. Companies like Pond's and Fair & Lovely top the list in this segment.

Due to the development of satellite television and a number of television channels as well as the Internet in the modern day, the Indian consumers are constantly being updated about new cosmetic products, translating into the desire to purchase them. Additionally, the flourishing Indian fashion/film industry is fueling growth into the Cosmetic industry in India by making Indians to realize the importance of having good looks and appearances. Today most of the cosmetics manufacturers in India cater to the domestic market but they are gradually establishing their footholds in overseas markets. In recent years, cosmetic manufactures in India have received orders from overseas markets; for example Indian herbal cosmetic products have a tremendous demand in the international market.

According to a study titled "Prospects in the FMCG sector," recently made public by the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India, FMCG sector will witness more than 50 per cent growth in rural and semi-urban India by 2014.

Increased brand choices caused growth of many brands such as L’OrÊal, Maybellene, Lakme, and others. People today ask for quality of products. This change is across the segments - all classes of towns and cities and mega cities people have moved towards quality of products and self consciousness can be seen as important in rural towns as well.

The number of salons have also gone up. Its growth rate is 35 percent. Cosmetic treatments are also growing at the rate of 5 per cent. The hair and beauty industry is seeing a per capita annual spend of $1.2 which is expected to grow to $ 6.2 by 2015. The spa and body treatment segment is estimated to grow approximately $772 million over the next five to eight years.

Driven by growing consumption in rural and semi-urban areas, the fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) market is set to double from $14.7 billion in 2008-09 to $30 billion in 2014 in order to become the fourth largest sector in the economy with a market size in excess of $14.7 billion

Government of India Registeration No. DELENG/47497

COSMOPROF BOLOGNA 2015: WHAT’S NEW FOR THE NEXT EDITION

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osmoprof 2015 offers ambitious goals: the 48th edition will be held in Bologna, March 19 to 23, 2015 and, once more, it will position itself as the international event par excellence in the beauty world, gathering all beauty trends and information on the global world of cosmetics.

Great expectations for all the latest news in the hair sector. In its sixth edition, On Hair confirms itself as the most eagerly awaited hair show and will involve international cult designers, who will make spectacular shows and propose "cutting edge" cuts on avant-garde catwalks.

There will also be the workshops for Hair Forum: Italian excellence that has had great success abroad with the direct testimony of representatives of great depth in the hair.

Hair Ring, now in its fifth year, will be held with the successful collaboration of the Italian Chamber of Hairdressing and will alternate young talents on stage. It will be a real springboard for creative people who can show to an international audience of Cosmoprof their art and highly charged proactive creativity.

Among the initiatives for the aesthetics sector, a new project dedicated to the "Spa Experience"

will be presented, in the increased square footage exhibition area dedicated to this important sector, with the organization of a "SPA International Symposium" in partnership with the major newspapers and associations. Linked to this meeting a focus on Aesthetics in Italy will take place, almost a census of schools with the most important insights held by exhibitors and dedicated beauticians and aestheticians apprentices.

Fashion and Cosmetics will meet for the first time at Cosmoprof: The Extraordinary Gallery, which contains the most advanced international trends, forms an alliance with a major player in fashion: a forum with key executives will tell the search industry, workshops and seminar will analyze the relationship between Fashion and Beauty.

Meanwhile, the Road Show Cosmoprof is taking place, the presentations of the International Fair, which this year will touch South Africa, Doha-Qatar, Germany, Morocco, the United States, Peru, Korea.

The International Buyer Programme will also be enriched, involving 25 areas of the world. The programme

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will provide the exhibitors a direct contact with the operators concerned to the purchase of as many countries.

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the leading international B2B event for companies and professionals in the beauty industry.

The year 2014 recorded 207,238 visitors, including 59,319 from abroad, with over 250,000 products on display from 2,450 exhibitors from 69 countries.

LEADING B2B BEAUTY EVENT:

Cosmoprof Asia 2014 COMMENCES NEXT MONTH

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osmoprof Asia 2014, the industry's leading B2B Beauty event in Asia, returns for its 19th edition on 12-14 November 2014 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. The event will host more than 2,350 exhibitors from 42 countries and regions including 22 country and group pavilions.

SPOT ON BEAUTY & BOUTIQUE The 2014 edition debuts the launch pad “Spot On Beauty” for innovative products in cosmetics, skincare, nail, hair and personal care. Located in the Convention Hall on the first level of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Spot On Beauty can be reached easily from the main entrance on Harbour Road.

The new exhibition area will host around 150 international brands in 3,700 square metres. Among the new product offerings are the Tahitian lava scrub by Natural Hygyne Co Ltd (Thailand), Manuka Doctor (Hong Kong) Rejuvenating Bee Venom Face Mask, BLACK PAINT® skincare products by Myyuki Co Ltd (Japan) and green-based Raywell Bio Nature Performer hair care products by Intercosmetics S.r.l.

(Italy).

Spot On Beauty is complimented by BOUTIQUE, a luxury shop where visitors can review and buy travelsized product samples by selected exhibitors. For a donation of HKD100, all attendees are invited to hand pick seven samples with adorable wrapping in a personalised gift box sponsored by HCP, the world-class contract manufacturer

for cosmetics. All proceeds collected from 12-14 November will benefit the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation.

PRESTIGE AVENUE Also new for Cosmoprof 2014 is the Prestige Avenue, an open lounge area positioned within the Cosmetics & Toiletries sector. Ten leading companies renown for high quality products and services servicing the luxury market through targeted distribution channels will exhibit in this area.

FULL CONFERENCE AND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMME An impressive and comprehensive educational programme lines up Cosmoprof Asia this year which will includes nine presentations covering spa and wellness, trends, marketspecific analysis as well as ingredients and formulations.

Cosmoprof Asia Spa Conference tops the agenda with an unprecedented line-up of 16 heavyweight speakers from the spa industry. The theme for this 7th edition is “Explore Opportunities, Enhance Skills". The keynote speaker, Andrew Gibson, Vice President, Spa and Wellness, Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts will address the topic “An overview on trends: East meets West”. He will look at the current spa trends and examine what this means for the future of spas in Asia. Panel discussions will cover topics including “How to best integrate products in your Spa to maximize revenue?”, “The keys to open a

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successful spa business in China” and “How to engage your customer by using social media?”

Focus on trends seminars will take place in two days. On 12 November, research company Kline will give an update on at-home beauty devices and professional skincare products in Asia, with a special focus on Indonesia and Thailand at the seminar “From Spa to Your House - Beauty Devices and Professional Skin Care Markets in Asia”, while Information et Inspiration (France) will present the topic “Personal Care & Beauty Care, from Asia to Europe, What’s in, What’s hot?".

On 13 November, world-leading design agency Centdegrés (France) will explain the consumption habits in the world and the most innovative practices that distinguish from each other beauty, luxury and more during the seminar “Consumer Experience”. The trend session will be closed by Beautystreams at the “Autumn-Winter 2015/2016 Seasonal Forecast” seminar exploring trends in makeup, hair, skincare, fragrances, design, packaging and visual merchandising.

China is inevitably the target market for the industry worldwide, thanks to the exponential economic growth of the country. At the forum “International Cosmetic Conference 2014: Seize the distribution opportunities in the internet era”, industry veterans such as Liu Yongming of Lizi Cosmetics Mall and Wang Di of Zhuang Media will explain with examples how foreign

brands entering the China market, and foster cooperation between the brands and the Chinese beauty industry. Another market which is worth of attention is Japan. The presentation entitled “Organic & Natural Cosmetic Market in Japan" will look into how the Japanese cosmetics market, the second in the world, still remains a huge opportunity for growth. In particular, Mitsuru Ogi of Mash Beauty Lab Co Ltd, Japan will analyze the growth of natural and organic products as a major trend of the market in Japan.

For the first time, the SCC Cosmetic Innovation Summit 2014: "Technology Driven Innovation and Safety” will take place at Cosmoprof Asia.

This summit will discuss the positive impact of new technologies on all aspects of a cosmetic product.

Among the topics: the new ingredients for anti-aging products, the impact of new technologies on cosmetic marketing strategies, and efficacy research confirming the effectiveness of the products.

Speakers invited include executives from P&G Global and Shiseido CO., LTD. COSMOPROF ASIA GOES MOBILE! Cosmoprof Asia launched the official mobile app for 2014 aimed at maximising visitors’ experiences and keeping them updated and informed leading up to the event as well as during the event. The app is downloadable for free on either Apple or Android devices.

For more information about the show visit www.cosmoprofasia.com

Checkup: Winter Skin From Woman's Day

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Sun exposure or cold, dry air can cause skin to become dehydrated.

Dry skin is more common in the winter because the air contains less humidity. It can also be genetic or hereditary, or a natural effect of aging.

water and moisture into the skin.

Avoid antibacterial and deodorant soaps, which can be harsh and drying. Instead, use a gentle cleanser, such as Dove or Aveeno, or a mild shower gel with added moisturizers.

Don't take extremely hot baths, or shower or soak in the tub for more than 10 minutes. Doing so breaks down your skin's natural protective oils, which keep it soft and smooth.

Use a humidifier during the winter.

Central heating and space heaters can dry out the air in your home.

Choose natural, breathable fabrics, such as cotton and silk, for your bedding and innermost layer of clothing.

Drink plenty of water and other liquids to keep skin hydrated from the inside out. Omega-3s (essential fatty acids found in foods such as salmon, walnuts, flaxseed, soybeans and broccoli) can also help keep skin supple.

What are your options?

When should you worry?

Over-the-counter lotions, such as Eucerin and CurĂŠl, can relieve dryness and flaking. Or try a body cream that contains oil to help seal in moisture. Look for fragrance-free products with alpha hydroxy acids, which gently exfoliate to allow more

See a dermatologist if dryness and itching keep you awake at night, if OTC lotions aren't working, if you have open sores or large areas of scaling or peeling skin, or if you develop an infection from scratching. You could have a more serious

hanges in the look and feel of your skin during cold, winter months are not abnormal, but you can counteract unpleasant irritation.

The telltale symptoms of dry skin are easy to spot: Skin just generally feels drier and tighter. Other signs may include roughness, itching, severe redness, flaking and scaling.

Sometimes pores become less visible or skin may look dull. In severe cases, skin may crack and bleed, especially on the hands and fingertips.

Why does it happen?

condition such as eczema, psoriasis or another skin disorder.

Did you know?

Although everyone's skin changes with age, a man's skin tends to stay moist longer. That's because a woman's skin becomes much drier after menopause.

The best time to apply lotion is immediately after a shower or bath, when skin is still damp.

Since dry skin is extra-sensitive, it's important protect it from the sun, especially if it's snowing (snow can reflect as much as 80 percent of the sun's rays). Apply SPF 15 or higher every day to your face, neck and ears.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |7

Impact Colors Launches Nature XFol, a Range of Exfoliator Beads Derived from Candelilla

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mpact Colors announces Nature XFol, an exciting new line of Candelilla Beads Exfoliators created specifically to replace polyethylene microbeads.

Microbeads, tiny bits of plastic that are practically invisible, have over the last decade became ubiquitous in exfoliates, body washes, and soaps.

Billions of these microbeads are polluting both the environment and the food chain—especially in the waters of the Great Lakes.

"With this new line, Impact Colors helps resolve a significant challenge for the personal care industry, for consumers, and for the environment," said Doug Thornley, Impact Colors CEO. "Our message is this: Chemists can stop using microbeads now without compromising on function or value.

Candelilla Beads are a cost-effective, all-natural, earth-friendly replacement."

The personal care industry has been working diligently to deal with the escalating challenge of microbeads.

Industry leaders, such as Johnson & Johnson, Unilever, The Body Shop, L'Oreal, Colgate Palmolive and more have committed to ridding their lines of plastic microbeads, targeting complete elimination by 2017 or

before. Regulatory bodies are also becoming more proactive. Illinois is the first state to ban microbeads entirely. There are plans afoot for similar action in California, New York, and other states.

"Since it became clear that microbeads have such a negative impact on the environment and potentially on consumer's health, manufacturers have been stepping up aggressively to eliminate polyethylene microbeads across the board," said Mr. Thornley.

"We've been working on a solution for some time. With this announcement, Impact Colors' Candelilla Beads line gives formulators' a clear path to stop using microbeads."

Candelilla is completely natural, actually edible, entirely bio degradable, and very safe for the skin.

Candelilla wax is obtained from the Candelilla plant, which grows wild in the dessert in Northern Mexico and Southern Texas.

"Our new Candelilla Beads line arrives at just the right time," said Mr. Thornley, "Until now, manufacturers replacing microbeads had to compromise. With Candelilla Beads chemists now have a full-function, cost-effective biodegradable

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replacement that is also sustainable in its natural environment."

for expertise and originality in colors and special effects pigments.

Candelillas grow in upright clumps.

The plant's foliage exudes a grayish brown powder that covers its surface, protecting against adverse weather and retaining moisture. The powder is mostly comprised of wax, which is harvested by boiling the leaves and stems further processed. Processing Candelilla is earth friendly and sustainable.

"Naturally we applied that knowhow to creating the Nature XFol Candelilla Beads Exfoliators," Mr. Thornley said. "Our Candelilla beads are available in white, yellow, red, blue, and green. Color can impart unique impact to virtually any personal care solution. Eliminating plastic is impactful-- and Impact Colors did not want to miss the opportunity to use color to add some sizzle and pop."

The resulting Candelilla wax is 100 percent natural, chemically stable, hard enough to exfoliate, and yet easily moldable. The wax is a safe non-irritant for the skin and is even ingestible, which makes it an option for toothpaste, another common application for microbeads.

"It isn't that manufacturers set out to damage the earth or endanger peoples' health with microbeads," said Mr.Thornley. "They were simply trying to satisfy their customers, many of whom favor some nittygritty in their cleansers and scrubs.

With Candelilla Beads, the application and marketing opportunities for new, earth friendly lines of advanced exfoliates and scrubs are exciting and virtually limitless."

Impact Colors is known worldwide

For ideas about trends in personal care and cosmetic solutions, Impact Colors will be releasing Color Trends 2016+ in September. The unique trends presentation, now in its fifth year was developed by noted industry trends expert, Sunny Mateo.

About Impact Colors, Inc. Impact Colors, Inc., headquartered in Conshohocken, PA with laboratory facilities in Newark, DE, provides highest quality color effect pigments and products to the personal care marketplace worldwide. The company has an international distribution network of thirty-two partners and is expert in color trends. Impact Colors recently celebrated its sixth anniversary.

Add alpha hydroxy acid products to your skin care regimen for smoother, younger-looking skin. How to Give Yourself a Facial. Skin care fads come and go, but alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been popular for some time. AHAs are a collection of compounds made from familiar food products. Among the most widely known are glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (sour milk), malic acid (apples), citric acid (citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (wine grapes).

USE OF ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS) dermatology at Hackensack University Medical Center in Hackensack, N.J. It all depends on your skin type and the amount of improvement desired.

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he original seekers of youngerlooking skin used these natural compounds many centuries ago, going back as far as the ancient Egyptians. In the United States, their popularity has skyrocketed in recent years. First, dermatologists used them for in-office facial peels, then they found their way into many skin care products after their FDA approval for over-the-counter use in 1992. Today you can find AHAs in hundreds of items, ranging from face and body creams to sunscreen, acne products, shampoos, cuticle softeners, and lightening agents.

The main difference among alpha hydroxy acid skin care products is their concentration and pH. At overthe-counter levels, alpha hydroxy acids are generally safe for many people, though those with sensitive skin, rosacea, or seborrheic dermatitis may be more likely to get a rash and need to halt treatment or try a different brand. Typically, overthe-counter skin care products, such as moisturizers or lotions, contain less than 5-percent glycolic acid; medical-grade “cosmeceuticals” (products that are a cross between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, or drug-strength meds) have 8 to 14 percent. These products are designed for daily use, but it can take months to show improvement.

“Quicker, better results can be obtained with 20- to 30-percent

“Alpha hydroxy acids are great exfoliators and increase blood flow to the skin, so they can help to minimize fine lines and wrinkles,” says Kenneth Beer, MD, a clinical instructor in dermatology at Duke University in Durham, N.C., who is in private practice in Palm Beach, Fla. Other potential skin care benefits include lightening of dark spots and a reduction in the appearance of blackheads and acne.

AHA Skin Care Products: Making the Right Choices “There is no ‘best’ concentration, nor ‘best’ preparation,” says Robin Ashinoff, MD, director of cosmetic 12 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

glycolic acid peels, but results are temporary and need to be repeated frequently,” says Dale Isaacson, MD, an associate clinical professor at George Washington University Medical Center who is in private practice in Washington, D.C. These peels must be done by trained cosmetologists.

The best and longest-lasting results come from peels done at 50- to 70percent concentrations, but they have the most risk of side effects and a doctor must apply them.

AHA Skin Care Products in a Nutshell

Drugstore brands are inexpensive to try on your own.

The cons: At-home products at low concentrations may take months to show results. The most effective peels must be done in a doctor’s office and can be expensive. Deep peels have a longer healing time; skin will look sunburned for a couple of days and then peel.

New skin is more sensitive to sun damage; you’ll need to be vigilant about sunscreen.

The pros: Subtle improvement gives skin a fresher look. With lighter peels, there’s fine-line reduction without any down time. AHAs often lighten age spots and remove blackheads as part of the results.

The next time you’re browsing for skin care products, look for those containing one of the alpha hydroxy acids. And be sure to buy extra sunscreen — not just because AHAs expose new skin to sun damage, but because a good sunscreen is also one of the best ways to prevent any further aging of your skin.

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF LEADING INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR COSMETICS, NAIL, FOOT, WELLNESS AND SPA FROM 27 – 29 MARCH 2015

Cosmetics – Comprehensive Know-how Represented in the Cosmetics segment are exhibitors and brands offering skincare, decorative and apparative cosmetics. Presented here are products for skincare and cleansing, natural cosmetics and make-up trends as well as new treatment methods and devices.

On all three days of BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF the central event forum for the Cosmetics segment, the Meeting Point in Hall 10, will feature exhibitor presentations on innovations and trends. Special highlights in the line-up at the Meeting Point will be the German and International Make-Up Championships with the themes “Special Event” and “Today’s Bride” as well as the presentation of the “Golden Mask for Make-Up Artistry” and “A Life of Beauty” awards.

Nail – All Aspects of Nailcare

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uccessful in the Service of Beauty: BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF in its 30th Year BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF has set standards for cosmetics trade fairs and has been working successfully in the service of beauty for 30 years now. The Leading International Trade Fair Cosmetics, Foot, Nail, Wellness and Spa has stood for quality and professionalism for three decades now and has become the leading communication meeting point for the sector.

50,000 international trade visitors will come here from 27 to 29 March

2015 to gather information on new products, treatments, trends, innovations and services. “We are proud of this success story. With its 1,400 exhibitors and brands BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is the largest beauty parlour in the world so to speak, and has therefore become an indispensable event for professionals in the sector. In particular, the high-quality specialist programme with over 100 events offers many opportunities for further training as well as inspiration for everyday working routines,” explains Director Helmut Winkler. BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is known for its clear

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structure and appealing atmosphere.

Its exhibition segments Cosmetics Exclusive Ordering, Cosmetics Direct, Permanent Make-Up, Foot, Wellness and Spa as well as Nail and Salon Accessories all featured in Halls 9 to 12 of the exhibition centre offer a comprehensive and ideal overview of the market. The setting, structure and specialist nature of the range along with a strict trade visitor registration policy make BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF the discerning event it is today. This exclusive setting allows professionals in the sector to meet, exchange ideas and go about their business.

Exhibitors in the specialist Nail segment present current trends, new treatment techniques and products as well as hand and nail care concepts. The entire sectoral range is on show here: gel treatments, airbrushing and nail art, care systems for natural nails, UV curing lamps for artificial nails and much more.

The central focal point here is Meeting Point Nail with its informative specialist programme. New in the range is the Nail Star Academy where international stars in the sector will, in two-hour units, present new trends and professional techniques and give tips for everyday work in the nail salon.

Visitors can become actively

involved at their own work stations and watch their idols at work at close hand.

security of documentation.

Good for Feet: Specialist Information for Foot Care Professionals

The stylishly designed Wellness segment offers a comprehensive overview of current trends, different treatments in the wellness and spa segment as well as therapy and treatment cubicle technology. At Meeting Point Wellness international spa and massage trends are also presented and vividly demonstrated.

These include wellness ceremonies, detox programmes and salon furnishings and fittings.

Spa Manager of the Year, awarded for the fourth time now in 2015.

Wellness – Current Trends SPECIAL THEMES

For both medical and cosmetic foot care professionals BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is an important communication and further training forum. Participating here are exhibitors with a comprehensive range for podiatrist practice and cosmetic foot care with foot and nail care products, technical equipment, salon furnishings and fittings as well as hygiene products.

The practice-oriented presentations at Meeting Point Foot, organised in cooperation with the Central Association of German Podologists and Podiatrists (Zentralverband der Podologen und Fußpfleger Deutschlands – ZFD) as partners of Messe Düsseldorf, are devoted to the most important foot conditions and other issues that podologists and podiatrists face on a daily basis.

This includes the treatment of nail, pressure mark and skin problems, children’s and teenage feet, the podo-taping concept or the legal

Spa – Innovations and Individual Consultation One focus at the SPA BUSINESS LOUNGE at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is the efficiency of spa operations.

Here the topic of successful spa management as well as the planning and designing of spas from a variety of perspectives will be dealt with in interesting specialist lectures and panel discussions. For trade visitors from the hotel trade, investment, facility operation and management sectors the SPA BUSINESS LOUNGE offers an exclusive and discerning lecture, consulting and communication platform. A special highlight in the programme is the voting of the

Compact Know-How at the Trend Forum One of the most important factors for staying on the market long term is continual information and further training. In one-hour specialist lectures renowned speakers from the field of science and practice will be conveying their compact knowhow. The lectures at the Trend Forum (Hall 10) offer impulses and motivation, selected themes from health and beauty as well as ideas for practical work and specialist knowledge first hand. Themes include “The Body in its Best Shape – How Metabolism Works", “Cosmetics – Trigger for, or Protection against, Allergies?" or “Cosmetics in Prevention – Maintain Health and Beauty". The lectures can be attended with no prior registration or additional costs.

Live Production With various cooperation partners BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF will be presenting the “Transparent Workshop” in Hall 10. At this special

show visitors can experience close up the development of various cosmetic products from their manufacture and production through to application and sales.

The Live Production feature thereby provides an interesting view behind the scenes of the professional cosmetics industry.

International Brand Café The brand universe in the cosmetics sector is becoming ever more comprehensive. Cosmetics, nail, foot, wellness and spa exhibitors count numerous national and international brands. But who belongs to whom and where do we find what? At the International Brand Café in Hall 10 visitors to BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF can find the right answers and information over a refreshing drink or aromatic coffee.

Future Spa Special Show In cooperation with the German Wellness Association BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF has been realising innovative special shows for many years. A group of ambitious architecture students at Düsseldorf Polytechnic under the guidance of Professor Harry Vetter will be presenting different design and space concepts for spas of the

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |15

future at the Future Spa area in Hall 9.

Wellness & Spa Innovation Awards and Innovation Gallery For the third time now the German Wellness Association will be awarding the Wellness & Spa Innovation Awards. The association honours innovations and forwardlooking ideas in the wellness and spa sector in four categories and will be presenting these awards for the first time at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF on Sunday, 29 March, at 4 pm. The nominated entries will also be on show in the new Innovation Gallery in Hall 9.

Podology Training Organised in cooperation with the Central Association of German Podologists and Podiatrists (Zentralverband der Podologen und Fußpfleger Deutschlands – ZFD) the special area “Podology Training” conveys comprehensive information on the future of the podologist’s profession as well as training methods, professional focuses and development options. The further training from podiatrist to podologist is centre stage here.

Gloria – German Cosmetics Prize After its successful premiere last year, 2015 will also see the presentation of the German Gloria Cosmetics Prize. The publishing

house KOSMETIK international presents awards to personalities and companies for their merits and services in six categories. The presentation of the Gloria Prize will be held as part of a gala on Friday evening. The sectoral award is supported by renowned companies in the sector, the association VCP Verband Cosmetic Professional and Messe Düsseldorf.

Medical SkinCare Congress Held for the first time in parallel with BEAUTY will be the Medical SkinCare Congress Düsseldorf. On Friday, 27 and Saturday, 28 March, topical scientific trends in the field of aesthetic dermatology and cosmetology will be discussed at the Congress Centre CCD Ost. In focus here will be solutions for sales implementation and increasing turnover at beauty salons and in bricks and mortar retail. Specialist scientific lectures from the fields of aesthetic dermatology and cosmetology will be centre stage at the congress. The international speakers and top-notch experts will talk about topics such as dermatocosmetics, aesthetic surgery and dermatology, apparative procedures in professional cosmetics and management concepts in professional cosmetics and the retail trade. The congress is aimed at entrepreneurs and specialist personnel from cosmetic institutes, perfumeries, pharmacies, hotel spas and interested derma-

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tologists. The participation fee (from € 195) is a complete price incl.

BEAUTY admission, a get together, snacks and drinks.

DKMS LIFE – "Look Good Feel Better" The cosmetics programme at the non-profit company DKMS LIFE is called "look good feel better". The company has set itself the task of encouraging female patients to adopt a life-affirming attitude during the difficult time of cancer therapy.

Throughout Germany DKMS LIFE organises some 1,200 cosmetic seminars a year at more than 250 institutions for female cancer patients in therapy. Its appearance at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is aimed at helping to win over more cosmeticians to collaborate at patient seminars.

Service with a Capital “S” The trade fair is restricted to trade visitors who can register at www.beauty.de beforehand. After registration eTickets can be purchased. 1-day tickets cost € 35 (Online-Ticket € 30), 2-day tickets € 50 (Online € 45). And what is even better: ticket prices are “allinclusive”. This is unique to Düsseldorf! Access to the trade fair, attendance of the technical lecture programme, cloakroom and luggage storage, trade fair journal, childcare facility and local public transport in greater Düsseldorf: One ticket – one

price.

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is open from Friday to Sunday, 27 – 29 March 2015, from 9.00 am – 6.00 pm. For further up-to-date information go to www.beauty.de or contact the BEAUTY-Hotline on +49(0)211 4560 7602. Here you will also find information on attractive hotel and travel offers.

Would you please mention in your report that the BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is intended for trade visitors only and that tickets are subject to suitable credentials.

Three Trade Fairs running in Parallel on the Last Weekend in March The last weekend in March 2015 sees Düsseldorf very much in the beauty mood when it hosts BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF, the leading international trade fair for cosmetics, nail, foot, wellness and spa, from Friday, 27 to Sunday, 29 March 2015.

Overlapping with this on two days is the parallel event TOP HAIR INTERNATIONAL Trend & Fashion Days, Germany’s leading hairdressing trade fair, running on Saturday, 28 and Sunday, 29 March. Also held on Saturday, 28 and Sunday, 29 March is the sixth make-up artist design show, Germany’s only trade fair for make-up artists.

Lonza Introduces Lonzest™ DC Emollient Ester & Rômacil™ V Multifunctional Ingredient

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onza has recently launched a new Lonzest™ DC Emollient Ester & Rômacil™ V multifunctional cosmetic ingredient.

Lonzest™ DC Emollient Ester offers superb spreadability on the skin and excellent skin-conditioning properties that will benefit personal care formulators.

Rômacil™ V can be added as a fragrance, and it also provides a beneficial secondary effect as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial.

Lonzest™ DC emollient ester Representing the latest multifunctional ingredient from Lonza, Lonzest™ DC (dicaprylyl carbonate) is a light ester emollient that conditions skin with superior solubility of UV sun filters. It has excellent pigment-wetting properties and is a silicone-free alternative.

The product helps give a light, dry, powdery feel to the skin so that the skin doesn't feel oily or greasy despite the application of a sunscreen or face lotion. Lonzest™ DC can be used in sunscreens, color cosmetics, daily facial lotions, overnight serums and non-greasy aesthetic formulations.

"Lonzest™ DC emollient ester is a broadly functional ingredient in formulation. One of the major benefits is its ability to provide pigment wetting for color cosmet-

ics," said Lisa Bouldin, Head of Lonza Personal Care. "Study results also confirmed it is capable of helping to solubilize many different organic UV filters, as well as to improve the dispersion of inorganic UV filters."

Lonza has incorporated the Lonzest™ DC technology into two available formulations for cosmetic and personal care formulators: HydraTherapy™ Sleep Time Mask and Polyaldo™ Base Formulations.

Rômacil™ V Multifunctional Ingredient "Our new multipurpose Rômacil™ V ingredient is a fragrance that also has antimicrobial effects," says Laura Szymczak-Frye, Global Marketing Manager, Lonza Personal Care.

"Formulators now have available a dual-purpose ingredient that can be used at low-concentration levels and that offers a variety of proven benefits in multiple applications."

Drawing on its decades-long experience in the cosmetic and personal care industries and on its skills in analytical chemistry and toxicology, Lonza Personal Care developed the new Rômacil™ V product to respond to formulators' desires for ingredients that offer multiple benefits, that simplify the formulation process and that offer consumers key desired effects.

About Lonza Personal Care Based in South Plainfield, NJ (USA) and with customer-support facilities throughout the world, Lonza Personal Care is a comprehensive solutions provider that offers global cosmetic and personal care customers an extensive portfolio of innovative hair and skin care products and services.

It is one of the world's largest suppliers of antidandruff actives and zinc pyrithione hair care solutions.

Also it is amongst leading suppliers of traditional and natural preservatives, custom-developed fermentation and biotechnological actives, and cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic products. Many of its products are certified as natural or organic under global regulatory and trade systems. Lonza Personal Care is a part of the company's Consumer Care business.

ingredients and stem-cell therapies to drinking water sanitizers, from the vitamin B compounds and organic personal care ingredients to agricultural products, and from industrial preservatives to microbial control solutions that combat dangerous viruses, bacteria and other pathogens.

Founded in 1897 in the Swiss Alps, Lonza today is a well-respected global company with more than 40 major manufacturing and R&D facilities and approximately 10,000 employees worldwide.

The company generated sales of about CHF 3.6 billion in 2013 and is organized into two market-focused segments: Pharma&Biotech and Specialty Ingredients.

About Lonza Lonza is one of the world's leading and most-trusted suppliers to the pharmaceutical, biotech and specialty ingredients markets. It harnesses science and technology to create products that support safer and healthier living and that enhance the overall quality of life.

Not only are it is a custom manufacturer and developer, Lonza also offers services and products ranging from active pharmaceutical Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |17

Croda Unveils Pea-derived Hydroastivum™ P & Crodasone™ P Actives for Skin & Hair Hydration

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roda, one of the global specialty chemical compa nies, launches its latest products derived from superfoods; Hydroastivum™ P for powerful moisturization and anti-irritancy properties for the hair and skin; and Crodasone™ P for protection against cuticle cracking caused by heat and styling damage.

attract water molecules from the air to act as humectants.

Cosmetic Proteins from Superfoods

Hydrosativum P immerses the skin with moisture to improve firmness and elasticity which promotes younger looking skin. As well as moisturization benefits.

Ingredients derived from 'superfood' sources have become increasingly popular and the number of personal care products with claims focused on superfood connotations have more than doubled in the last few years (Source: GNPD, March 2014).

Croda have used their 40 years of experience in proteins to develop two new biopolymers that not only meet the trend but provide functional benefits to final products.

Hydroastivum P and Crodasone P are both derived from the superfood Pisum sativum or 'pea' which is popular for its high protein content, unique assortment of phyto-nutrients and antioxidant properties.

In personal care applications, Pisum sativum provides a rich source of amino acids. Hydrosativum P and Crodasone P both contain high levels of glutamic acid, aspartic acid, argenine and lysine all of which have vital properties for hair and skin care.

Hydrolyzed proteins such as wheat and silk have been used to impart moisture and conditioning properties to the hair and skin for decades.

Over 40 years ago, Croda was the first to bring cosmetic grade proteins to the industry and has been at the forefront of biopolymer innovation ever since.

Proteins adsorb readily onto the surface of skin and hair and are generally hygroscopic, meaning they

Hydrosativum P Obtain hydration harmony with Hydrosativum P, a highly moisture retentive biopolymer that exhibits powerful moisturization properties in hair and skin care formulations.

Hydrosativum P has additional antiirritancy properties ideal for skin and scalp care. Hydrosativum P is naturally substantive to a variety of hair types from different ethnicities binding to moisture and hydrating hair at a wide range of humidities, increasing hair plasticity to help prevent breakage.

Crodasone P Defend cuticles from heat and styling damage with Crodasone P, an advanced copolymer that offers proven protection against cuticle cracking caused by common hair styling practices such as blowdrying, combing and styling. Due to its complex polymeric structure, Crodasone P cross-links on drying to form a conditioning and protective network that offers functional benefits to all types of hair care products.

Studies have shown that Crodasone P can reduce thermal cracking by 49% in an aqueous spritz and 38% in a conditioner system. Crodasone P is ideally suited to leave-on styling products or conditioners claiming heat defense but is also proven to be effective in rinse-off applications such as shampoos, conditioners and hair treatments to defend the cuticles from damage caused during styling. Superfood Formulations

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Croda have developed a range of formulations packed full of superfoods to meet the market need.

suppliers of specialty chemicals for the Personal Care, Home Care, Functional Specialties, Health Care and Manufacturing Industries.

'Super Satin Cooling Lotion' is a cooling skin moisturizer that contains Hydrosativum P and blueberry extract. 'Scoopable Hair Souffle' is a nourishing hair mask with a novel texture that contains Crodasone P for cuticle protection, Hydrosativum P to lavish the hair and scalp with moisture and is packed full of superfoods including pomegranate, apple and blueberry.

'Blow-Dry Defender Spritz' is a thermally activated heat defense spray with extracts of pea and goji berry.

It is part of a global network and offers one of the widest ranges of chemical specialties, surfactants and high purity lipids available to the industries in which it operates.

Croda also carries a full line of natural, botanical ingredients from its Crodarom division and a full range of skin care actives from the Sederma division.

Finally the 'DD Hair Rescue Shield' offers multifunctional claims to meet the '10 in 1' concept including; antibreakage, anti-aging, blow-dry defense, targeted repair, long-lasting conditioning, environmental protection, moisturization, gloss, smoothing and detangling.

About Croda Croda is one of the world leading

About Croda Personal Care Croda is one of the world's leading global suppliers of specialty raw materials for the Personal Care industry, working with their customers to meet various consumer needs.

Supported by proven efficacy testing, Croda's wide and diverse product range combines functionality with innovation to deliver sophisticated ingredients and actives that meet the needs of specific consumer demands.

Symrise Launches SymVital® AR, a 100% Natural Ginger Root Extract to Get Healthy Radiance Symrise launches SymVital® AR, which is a 100% pure and natural ginger root extract. SymVital® AR is proven to significantly improve the skin texture and smoothness of stressed skin, smoothing wrinkles and enhancing complexion regularity in three weeks. It also helps to reduce signs of sun damages in less than two weeks.

It is widely known that the sun accelerates the appearance of wrinkles and promotes sagging and dullness of skin. 78% of consumers would like to prevent these signs.

For many, uneven skin tone can be a source of shame. 58% of consumers feel bad with an uneven skin tone. The demand for skin perfection is rising in women of all ages. In their thirties, female consumers long for luminous skin without imperfections, irregularities and fine lines.

Women aged 45-plus focus on luminous skin as well with the increasing emphasis on wrinkle reduction.

To address these concerns, Symrise has developed SymVital® AR, a 100% natural ingredient from ginger root. The spice has a long history of use for food and pharmaceutical application. More than 3,000 years ago, the Chinese and Indians first cultivated ginger. It is part of many traditional remedies all over the world for its multiple properties, e.g.

in TCM and Ayurveda. It has a wide variety of medicinal, pharmaceutical and cosmetic effects including antiinflammatory, sedative, antibiotic, antioxidative, antiseptic and stimulating.

Symrise uses an eco-friendly process to extract the main components of ginger with soothing and antioxidant activity.

Thanks to a multistep separation process the final extract is enriched with the two main compounds responsible for the benefits in skin care application.

The versatile skin beautifier SymVital® AR is suitable for all complexions and ages. It protects and improves skin smoothness, complexion regularity and homogeneity of the challenged and stressed skin. Antioxidant and soothing activities provide skin protecting and caring properties. SymVital® AR is proven to significantly smooth wrinkles and even the skin tone in 21 days and also help to reduce signs of sun damages in less than 2 weeks.

After 56 days of using a cream with 0.2% SymVital® AR twice daily, the product significantly decreased the appearance of UV spots compared to a placebo product. This was confirmed by 74% of the users.

These results prove a protective

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effect of the product against UV spots likely to appear over time by fading them before they become visible.

Dr Marielle Le Maire, Global Product Director Life Essentials at Symrise, describes the product: "We have developed SymVital® AR to allow our customers to create products that significantly beautify skin tone and texture and therefore become a real ally for skin of all ages. Additionally, the pure natural ginger root extract underlines our approach of using natural raw materials. We will continue to develop suitable skin care solutions to meet the consumers' wishes for effective & natural cosmetics – today and in the future."

About Symrise Symrise is one of the global suppliers of fragrances, flavorings, cosmetic active ingredients and raw materials as well as functional ingredients. Its clients include manufacturers of perfumes, cosmetics, food and beverages, the pharmaceutical industry and

producers of nutritional supplements.

Its sales of € 1.830 billion in 2013 place Symrise among the top four companies in the global flavors and fragrances market. Headquartered in Holzminden, Germany, the Group is represented in 35 countries in Europe, Africa, the Middle East, Asia, the United States and Latin America.

Symrise works with its clients to develop new ideas and marketready concepts for products that form an indispensable part of everyday life. Economic success and corporate responsibility are inextricably linked as part of this process. Symrise thus takes sustainability into account in every part of its corporate strategy. DQS certified Symrise as "Green Company" in 2013.

Lipotec Launches NOCTURSHAPE™ Blue Ingredient, an Exopolysaccharide to Fight Cellulite

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ipotec introduces NOCTURSHAPE™ blue ingredient which, especially active at night time, is directed at providing a superior anti-cellulite benefit with results in only 15 days.

Why at nighttime? NOCTURSHAPE™ blue ingredient target the expression of the circadian gene nocturnin in adipocytes, which peaks at early night. By reducing its levels, it does the lipid accumulation.

The stimulation of lipolysis has been significant in vitro at the tested concentration in synchronized cells during the differentiation process.

Moreover, fat reduction has showed to be more effective with NOCTURSHAPE™ blue ingredient than with caffeine.

This new active ingredient is an exopolysaccharide which has been obtained through biotechnology from a planktonic microorganism. Its slimming profile is completed with its efficacy in reinforcing the dermal matrix through type I collagen, what contributes to reducing visible fat

nodules that characterizes cellulite.

Macroscopic Benefit A complete in vivo test supports the efficacy of NOCTURSHAPE™ blue ingredient in reducing centimetres while improving the appearance and quality of the skin.

The reduction in thighs was of almost -1 cm after only 15 days of a nighttime active cream application (4%).

The improvement of cellulite appearance was also visible per the increase of skin relief, as show the digital photographs, and the unevenness of subcutaneous fat deposits.

This trend was also evident at the end of a 30-day treatment as well as when measuring skin firmness, improved by 23%. A clinical evaluation on the signs and intensity of cellulite complete the efficacy study.

As per the results, NOCTURSHAPE™ blue ingredient can be incorporated into body care formulations claiming global anti-cellulite, slimming and

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firming properties with specific nightime application. Within chronobiology, circadian rhythms can give us a clue of which is the most favourable time to apply a specific cosmetic product. With this, more and more, efficient active ingredients can contribute to the saving time concept, a key theme in today’s cosmetic market, while benefits can be accommodated to a wider range of lifestyles of modern consumers.

About Lipotec Founded in 1987 and based in Barcelona, Lipotec researches,

develops and manufactures cosmetic active ingredients. Since July 2012 is part of The Lubrizol Corp. A thorough expansion of the company’s well known platforms Molecular Cosmetics and Delivery Systems, and a heavy investment in advanced technologies allow Lipotec to be an outstanding global supplier of cosmetic active ingredients.

Lipotec has a strong presence through a well-connected network of distributors, subsidiaries and offices worldwide.

Showa Denko at in-cosmetics Asia 2014: to Unveiled a Vitamin C Derivative for Cosmetics

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howa Denko K.K., a Japanbased manufacturer of raw materials and ingredients, announces the official introduction of Ascomate-C™ for the Asia Pacific region at the upcoming incosmetics Asia 2014.

is constantly innovating to develop solutions that address current concerns. Vitamin C has proven efficacies in skin whitening but its instability makes it difficult to deliver the optimum dosage for maximum absorption.

The latest addition to the company's range of chemical derivatives, Ascomate-C is a vitamin C derivative that is developed specifically for use in personal care products, and that exhibits superior stability in aqueous solutions. Showa Denko's showcase is part of the Japan Country Focused at the show, which was held at Bangkok from 4 – 6 November 2014.

Thus, it is with this focus that we have developed Ascomate-C, a new vitamin C derivative that exhibits high stability in aqueous solutions," shared Atsushi Shibato, Sales Manager, Personal Care Materials Group, Showa Denko K.K. "This is our first official introduction of Ascomate-C to the APAC region, and we hope that it will gather interest among manufacturers of Asian skincare products."

According to a consumer survey conducted by Datamonitor in 2013 across 24 markets and with over 25,000 consumers, 50% of consumers in Asia see skin lightening/brightening benefits as an essential feature of skincare products. On the other hand, only less than a quarter of consumers in Western Europe and North America share the same sentiments.

"As a leading provider of specialty chemical derivatives, Showa Denko

giving rise to a clearer solution that may improve the appearance of end-product formulations.

Ascomate-C has been shown to be effective for skin brightening, antiaging, acne care, and hair care, and is applicable to a variety of cosmetics products such as moisturizers, sunscreen and shampoos.

Functions of Asocmate-C include: Whitening and depigmentation, by the inhibition of melanin synthesis Boosting of collagen synthesis and inhibition of collagen degradation Anti-aging, due to deceleration of cell aging. UV protection, and protection of hair cuticles against chlorine damage, due to its radical scavenging ability.

Resistant to heat and oxygen, Ascomate-C is stable in formulations, and remains inactive and chemically stable under atmospheric conditions until applied on the skin.

Once applied, it can be easily hydrolyzed by intradermal enzymes to form ascorbic acid for effective transdermal delivery.

In addition to Ascomate-C, Showa Denko's showcase highlights two other chemical derivatives – HiCarnitine (HLC) and Methyl Hesperidin. Carnitine is known for its cellactivating properties but on its own, it has low skin permeability due to its hydrophilic nature.

Due to its high anti-oxidative property, Ascomate-C also shows less decolorization when dissolved,

HLC is a new carnitine derivative that can effectively penetrate through skin, and that releases carnitine

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enzymatically. This enhances the intracellular concentration of carnitine efficiently, and thus generates energy to activate skin cells. HLC is particularly suited for anti-aging formulations, and has been shown to combat common signs of aging skin, such as fine lines, dullness, dryness, and loss of elasticity.

Hesperidin, or vitamin P, is a polyphenol that is extracted from the peels of citrus fruits, and that presents anti-oxidative and antiallergic properties, with improved blood circulation. The low water solubility of Hesperidin makes it difficult to be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. Methyl Hesperidin, on the other hand, is a hesperidin derivative with high water solubility properties.

When used in combination with vitamin C, Methyl Hesperidin is able to enhance the whitening effects of skin care products, while its antiglycation effect prevents dullness and loss of elasticity in skin.

Additionally, Methyl Hesperidin promotes micro-circulation, making it suitable for use in massage creams and eye care products.

Natural Sourcing Offers Organic Virgin Coconut Oil with Moisturizing & Protecting Benefits

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atural Sourcing has announced the addition of premium Organic Virgin Coconut Oil (INCI: Cocos nucifera (Virgin Coconut) Oil) within its growing line of specialty ingredients for use in innovative personal care product formulations.

Organic Virgin Coconut Oil is light and penetrating with excellent shelf life and stability. The aroma is that of fresh coconut milk.

It is solid at room temperature and performs similarly to Kukui, Jojoba, Illipe and Shea Butter. It is creamier when stored in warmer temperatures and is firmer at cooler temperatures. In countries where it is produced, it is a food source and has been found to be the best source of monolaurin, a well-known antiseptic substance found in breast milk. Natural Sourcing's 100% Organic Virgin Coconut Oil is

obtained from freshly harvested coconut meat that has been grated and then expeller pressed to produce the coconut milk. This milk is then centrifuged to separate the milk into coconut solids, water and oil.

This separation is so thorough that the oil has no moisture left in it to promote rancidity, and the oil does not need to undergo any further heating to remove moisture.

This method yields the finest, creamiest, most flavorful coconut oil possible.

This unique cold process extraction takes place within hours of opening the coconuts, and it conserves all of the nutritive, functional components of coconuts such as squalene, tocopherols and sterol.

Natural Sourcing Organic Virgin Coconut Oil is carefully stored and

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packaged to maintain the purity, freshness and beneficial properties of this nutritive, virgin oil.

This creamy white to off-white in colored product offers moisturization and protection. It is a noteworthy Source of Vitamin E and lends oxidative stability to product formulations. It also helps prevent evaporation of volatile aromatic components. Organic Virgin Coconut Oil is Suitable for the various personal care applications including skin care, hair care, lip care, massage, cold process soap making, aromatherapy, etc.

their quality and functionality in skin care, hair care and beauty treatments.

Natural Sourcing's ingredient lines consist of nutritive specialty ingredients including berry oils, organic beeswax, organic shea butter, pomegranate oil and watermelon seed oil.

Additionally, Natural Sourcing offers over 25 categories of natural ingredients.

Natural Sourcing is a member of the Organic Trade Association and has its organic certification through CCOF.

About Natural Sourcing Natural Sourcing specializes in the procurement and supply of over 500 natural ingredients for cosmeceutical, spa, massage and aromatherapy applications.

Ingredients are carefully selected for

Natural Sourcing is dedicated towards becoming an increasingly strong presence in the growing awareness of the importance and benefits of organic skin care. Natural Sourcing operates a 30,000 square foot facility in Oxford, Connecticut.

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mell and Emotion - the Reality and Technology behind Fragrance Marketing. Emotion is key to the marketing of so many fragrances. We often hear references to lust, desire and even envy associated with marketing of fragrances. "These words are liberally sprayed around the fragrance halls of department stores. But do people really understand just how critical the sense of smell is to our emotional make up and psychological wellbeing?" asks Duncan Boak, a speaker at the forthcoming IFRA UK Fragrance Forum to be held on 16th October.

Mr Boak is Founder and Director of Fifth Sense, the first charity for smell and taste disorder sufferers and himself affected by anosmia following an injury. He and Fifth Sense's members understand perhaps better than anyone just how losing one's sense of smell can affect life.

Duncan Boak draws on their experiences to illustrate that, as far as the sense of smell is concerned, you really don't know what you have got until it is gone.

For those fortunate enough to retain their sense of smell, another of the speakers will explore the topic of ‘Scent and Technology', reviewing innovations and the fragrance experience.

According to Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Personal Care Analyst at Mintel, "Over half of European mobile phone users own a smartphone; however only 6% of consumers are interested in using a mobile app to determine the right fragrance for them". Ms Moeglin will explore just how manufacturers can bring technology and scent experiences together to bridge the gap. She believes that technology devices, digital tools and innovations such as ‘fragrance from within' will in future enhance our sensory smell experiences and affect our moods.

Do you smell what I smell?

No-one else knows what your nose knows. According to Dr Darren Logan, an expert in genetics and the effects of smell, there may be much greater diversity between humans than was previously thought to be. In fact, there is no ‘true’ smell for any given odour at all. He says: “We trust our senses to provide us with information about the world around us, but is our perception an accurate representation of our external environment? By studying the genetics and neurobiology of olfaction, we and others, are discovering remarkable diversity exists in our sense of smell”. Dr Logan will be demonstrating that genetic variation in the olfactory system is unusually high when he speaks at the IFRA UK Fragrance Forum on 16th October.

“This genetic variation contributes to inherent, fixed differences in what each individual can smell and can also predict how we respond to odours,” he says. In his talk, he will also present new research suggesting the diversity of neurons in our noses –the cells that detect odours– also varies significantly between individuals.

Dr Logan adds: “This suggests that we all have very different olfactory sensitivities. We have been charting the neuronal make-up of noses, investigating what controls the neuronal pattern and asking how we might influence it, with a view to improving olfactory ability and treating olfactory conditions. Taken together, I would argue that we are all olfactorily unique and that there is no ‘true’ perception of any given smell. However, I propose that the complexity of the olfactory system may buffer the effect of this variance. The majority of us are therefore likely to experience a reasonably similar percept of most fragrances, though notes may subtly differ. In the near future it may be feasible to incorporate genetic information from a target group into the fragrance production process."

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Smell and emotions Do you smell what I smell?

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Makeup resists crisis and appeal to ready-to-wear brands

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n a difficult economic environment, makeup, which is supported by low prices and a regular renewal of ranges, resists crisis and is increasingly appealing to ready-to-wear brands looking for growth opportunities. Etam is the latest brand to have a try.

Sales of prestige beauty products (brands sold in specialised beauty stores and in department stores) in France declined by 1.5% in value in 2013, after a drop of 0.9% in 2012. However, while sales of skincare products and fragrances declined by 1.7%, makeup ended the year on steady sales.

Furthermore, as sales of makeup products grew by 1% on the first eight months of 2014, said the NPD research firm. “In the long term, it is the category that progressed the most in the selective perfumery channel, growing by 15% between 2006 and 2013,” says Mathilde Lion, beauty expert at NPD. A strong market According to NPD, sales of prestige makeup products in France are expected to rise by about 1% in 2014. Make-up sales remain strong despite the crisis. “The rise is moderate in value, due to the development of low cost ranges by new players, but sales in volumes are boosted by numerous innovations and new products," says NDP. This is the case for mascara brushes or eyebrow gels. While nail polishes benefited from a widening of ranges and colours driven by new fashion trends that encouraged repeated purchases from consumers.

In addition, thanks to very low entry-level process, makeup products benefits from impulse purchases. “Makeup remains a little and reasonable indulgence that one’s still considers as accessible,” said Ms. Lion.

Finally, the last factor that helps these products resist crisis is that, thanks to make-up “one’s can buy luxury brands at a reasonable price," she added.

A growth driver for ready-to-wear fashion?

Besides prestige brands, the French make-up market is captured by mass market brands (L’Oréal Paris ...), and by beauty retailers’ (Sephora, Nocibé ...) and mass market private label brands (Carrefour’s Les Cosmétiques Design Paris, Intermarché’s Labell Paris ...) as well as by the more recent brands launched by textile brands such as H&M, Zara, Camaieu or, lately, Etam.

Impacted by consumption cuts made by French consumers, the ready-towear market recorded declining sales for six consecutive years, some brands therefore perceive the makeup market as offering alternative growth opportunities.

Accessories (leather goods, jewellery and beauty) help read-to-wear brands to recruit new customers, to increase the frequency of store visits and to stimulate additional sales, and therefore to rise the average purchase.

Eventually, “there is still room for new players in the makeup market, as illustrated the recent success of Italian brand Kiko. Clearly, there are market shares to conquer in France,” in particular in the low cost segment, deems Yves Marin, consumption specialist at Kurt Salmon.

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Beauty & Cosmetics: Four trends to be followed

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ustomization Helga HertsigLavocah, Trend Manager at Hint Creative Consultancy, deciphered the agro-food industry, which abounds with concepts that it seems could be adapted to the cosmetics industry. The democratization of 3D printing offers unprecedented individualization perspectives. Practises such as adding a dose of actives or transforming a product through a mixture are increasingly used in the tin and drink departments, with launches such as Shake Me by William Saurin or Teavana® Shaken Iced Teas.

Chrono-cosmetics and natural harmony Nature is more than ever an important source of inspiration. “We

are getting beyond products stuffed with natural ingredients to turn towards seasonal concepts that can adapt to the skin’s specific needs in spring, summer, autumn, or winter, as can be seen with Dong Fang Ji Dao or Arimino Mint Shampoo. In addition, recovering a healthy, depolluted skin by imitating what Nature does best in this field constitutes a strong quest in Asia, but also in most large cities throughout the world. Specific ingredients like garlic, detoxifying mushrooms, or the lotus flower are getting widely used for their renowned depolluting action,” explains Florence Bernardin, the founder of Info & Inspiration.

Communities revolution

younger generations, are revolutionizing the buying act. “Women consumers look for disinterested opinions and advice on the Internet before they buy. Blogs’ influence on purchases is stronger than the women’s press: up to 23% compared to 7%. The democratization of the Do It Yourself also encourages women to watch tutorial videos and learn how to put on their makeup or do their hair.

There are 14 million beauty videos on YouTube, and influential people such as Michelle Phan gather up to 7 million followers, whereas brands, despite a strong presence on the market, reach only 500,000, at best,” underlines Géraldine Cohen, founder of social shopping website The Beautyst.

Today’s consumers, and in particular

In the USA, the NYX makeup brand

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reached a turnover of 100 million dollars in ten years by investing neither in the media, nor in advertising, nor in offers. It is an example of success of a pure digital company, and it has just been bought out by L’Oréal.

Older consumers On the other hand, women consumers are aging: “one woman out of two is now aged 50 or more,” explains Stéphane Soudillat, of Little Less Conversation. And “86% of them claim they don’t understand ads and conclude they must not be destined for them. Yet, the buying power of this age group is of 87 euros per year for a face care product: that’s 15 euros more than women aged 40-59 and 47 euros more than the 25-39 age group.”

How technology is transforming the cosmetics industry

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he cosmetics industry is embracing new technologies, as it attempts to attract a new wave of digital natives The rise of online shopping has transformed the way we buy everything from groceries to clothes, but when it comes to cosmetics online shopping has hit the buffers.

This is because consumers still want the same 'real-life' experience online as they do in-store – they want to know what a product will look like, or smell like, in order to make a decision.

With 87 per cent of people expected to be shopping online and 45 per cent via mobile phones by 2020, cosmetics companies need to use the most advanced technology available to introduce products to digital consumers.

Recent research from the Future Foundation found that “in-store experience needs to work ever harder to excite and ‘close the deal’ while the customer is on site”.

Now two L'Oréal brands have launched partnerships with technology companies to allow customers to use the latest technology to help the ‘trial’ cosmetics before they buy. YSL has partnered with Google to enable make-up artists to show customers how to apply their make-up via digital technology, while L'Oréal Paris has launched a ‘Make-up Genius App’ to allow customers to see

how make-up will look on their face prior to them buying it.

Both of these initatives are designed to enhance the process of buying cosmetics, allowing customers to experience products in a way that previously wasn't possible. Rather than attempting to replace the experience of trying on make-up in store, it adds a new dimension for people who want to try a new look.

Developed by L'Oréal in the US, Makeup Genius is a beauty app that uses facial mapping technology to transform your iPhone or iPad’s front-facing camera into a virtual mirror where you can 'try on' L'Oreal Paris products – including eyeliner and lipstick – in real time.

The app captures 64 data points on your face, making it intuitive enough to discern between the skin of the lips, eyes and other facial contours.

This means the virtual makeup moves with you as you turn your head, change your facial expression and test out new looks at various angles and lighting conditions.

L'Oréal worked with the team of data scientists from Image Metrics – whose advanced facial mapping technology was used in the film The Curious Case of Benjamin Button – to incorporate a facial mapping algorithm, which up until this point has only been used in Hollywood and in the gaming industry.

The company's research team tested 400 lighting conditions and captured 180,000 images of makeup application on an array of photography devices to make sure that ‘what you see is what you get’ for women of all skin tones, and for accuracy in both natural and artificial light and at any angle.

techniques.

"We tested the algorithm on five different ethnic groups that we chose very strategically to go from very light to very dark skin, and that helped us adapt the algorithm not only to the lighting conditions but also to the tone of the skin of the person that's using the phone," said Guive Balooch, director of L'Oréal's 'Connected Beauty' incubator in California and creator of the Makeup Genius app. Makeup Genius also allows consumers to scan a L’Oréal Paris product to detect a colour match, virtually try on individual products or test out curated looks from L'Oréal Paris expert makeup artists, and share with friends and family on social media.

The customer can then replay the video at home and mimick the makeup artist's techniques to recreate the makeover look. They can also view a list of the products that the makeup artist used, and order them online via YSL's online store. "We used to say that luxury is more than product, it's service. But this is even beyond that – it's personalised service. The video is a gift for the customer. It's a very consumer-centric approach," said Stephan Bezy, international general manager for YSL beaute.

The app is currently only available on iOS in the US and France, but L'Oréal hopes to roll it out internationally over the coming months.

Another L’Oréal brand, YSL beaute, has recently launched a partnership with Google Glass to allow makeup artists to capture makeup sessions on video from a subjective point of view and demonstrate application

The idea is that YSL makeup artists in department stores will use Google Glass to film makeover sessions with customers. At the end of the session, they can email the video to the customer's personal account, along with 'before' and 'after' shots.

"Google Glass is such practical tool because it leaves the makeup artists' hands free. It's very comfortable and easy to wear; it looks cool because the design is great; and for the customer at the end, the video has a great quality too." YSL makeup artists will start using Google Glass in department stores around the world, including Selfridges in the UK, from mid-October. The company said that, as well as enriching the experience for existing customers, the personalised tutorials should help to attract a new generation of younger women to the brand.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |37

Want Fast Hair Growth? Natural Hair Care Tip: Use Ayurveda to Maximize Hair Growth

Ayurveda Bliss!

H

ow to Grow Your Hair and Say “Bye Bye” to Short Hairstyles for Black Women Using Ayurveda Hair Care

Fast Hair Growth and Natural Hair Care Tips: Use Ayurveda Hair Care to Maximize Hair Growth It seems like everyone (including this natural hair sister right here) is looking for the next big thing that will help them maximize their hair growth. Growing your mane doesn’t have to be hard, but adopting a hair regimen that varies from the typical may be worth a try. Ayurveda hair care might be the thing for you if you’re seeking long, luscious locks. Many African American women end up exploring Ayurveda hair care at some point during their natural hair journey. And when one educates themselves about its principles, it’s apparent that any one of my natural hair sisters can benefit from this. But before you jump on the Ayurveda train, take the first step and educate yourself. To find out if this method of natural hair care is right for your mane, you have to understand what it is and how it is meant to work with you. Never fear, we can help you with that.

Natural Hair Care Tips: Herbal Hair Growth It’s no secret that natural hair is the ultimate showcase of external beauty.

When there is something wrong with your hair (i.e. hair loss, damage) it creates a concern that seems to match no other. This probably explains why naturalistas have adopted the term product junkie. Due to a shift in focus of natural hair care, beauty and hair health, we’ve gone through pages on the Curly Nikki Hair Care Blog, read hair magazines for black women and searched the web for potions, concoctions and regimens. Now, is being a product junkie necessarily a bad thing? I venture to say not really. We just have to find what works well with our natural hair types.

Not Just Natural Hair Growth, But Growth of Mind and Spirit You’ve heard of henna, indigo and neem right? These are just a few of the products that are used in Ayurveda hair care. The Ayurveda lifestyle is something that many black women have tested and added to their regimen to maximize natural hair growth. Its focus is also on using herbal mixtures and minimally processed oils to develop an all-around healthy appearance and feel of the hair. But that is not all. Ayurveda is a concept that is over 5,000 years old! It’s a system of preventative healthcare and was used in Ancient India. The method seeks to create a balance between body, mind, 38 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

emotion, spirit and environment while placing emphasis on the ability of the human body to heal itself. Sound a bit voodoo-like huh? Well, when you look at the overall message in terms of natural hair growth, healthier you equals healthier, longer, natural hair. Get it?

I myself have been dabbling in the Ayurveda hair care regimens (With a few modifications of my own). My recent discovery was of the oil Frankincense from YoungLiving. I use the essential oil on my scalp for natural hair growth and stimulation, but also understand that it has many benefits for the brain.

Frankincense acts as somewhat of a brain foodaiding in clarity of mind and spirit. This is the Ayurveda principle, combining healthy practices that will balance the body. And I have to say that I’m not disappointed. There are several other oils and methods to use.

Ayurveda hair care, and essentially, the lifestyle, is beneficial for those looking to maximize natural hair growth.

Natural Hairstyles for Transitioning Women

N

ot everyone chooses to start all over. I, for one, was not one of them. We’re not knocking the brave hair sisters who cut it all off. Rock those TWA until you can’t no more! But this post is mainly for my natural hair sisters who are a little bit hesitant when it comes to enduring a “big chop”. One thing is for sure, rocking two textures is a bit hard, but transitioning can be made easy if you know where to start and what to do.

Transitioning Hairstyle that Involve Heat.

from heat and moisturized.

Although this is not my most recommended choice of styling, I would be lying through my teeth if I said I did not use these hairstyles when I first began transitioning. The best way to hide your line of demarcation (The place where the two textures meet) is to employ low heat blow dried styles. I used roller styles and a salon grade blow dryer.

I would even take a hot comb to my roots from time to time. Like all straight styles however, it is important to ensure hair is protected

When in doubt, twist it out! Twist outs and other protective hairstyles are ideal. As you’re natural hair begins to outshine you’re straightened tresses, try adopting twist outs, flat twists loose braids and buns. Synthetic hair use is also a fabulous way for my natural hair sisters to hide that transitioning line.

For my natural hair sisters who are staying away from heat altogether, using roller sets and allowing them to air dry is also a great way to stretch the hair and blend the two different textures. There’s obviously going to be a thinner appearance to your edges, but curly natural hairstyles make a world of difference.

Transitioning Hairstyles that are No Different Than Natural Hairstyles

In addition to simply twisting and braiding, twist outs and braid outs both stretch the hair but also allow for fabulous defined waves. When I

40 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

first began transitioning I remember my mom used to do my hair in bantu knots. When they would dry, I would slap on this hideous headband, smoothing down the edges and rock my wavy tresses. Despite the headband, I would say it was an amazing style, perfect for my transitioning hair.

Whether you choose to do the big chop, or transition like I did, the goal is simple, just do you! Whether you feel like hiding those two textures or making them your own, rock your own style how you want to.

T

he sun, free radicals,

ultraviolet rays, UVA and UVB —

smoking, irritants, and facial

with a sun protection factor of 30 or

expressions can cause skin

higher. Don't forget to reapply every

When you smoke, your skin gets

either by wearing gloves when you

damage. Find out how to fight back.

two hours for maximum protection.

less of the oxygen and nutrients it

clean or do dishes or by switching

needs to stay healthy, and that leads

to less irritating products. Also,

Our skin is assaulted by everything

Free Radicals

to wrinkles. In addition, smoking

moisturizing your skin can help.

causes elastic fibers in the skin to

Some people may need an

One of the ways the sun damages

thicken, which means your skin

antihistamine or non-steroidal anti-

from the sun to irritating laundry detergent and cigarette smoke.

Allentown, Pa.

The easiest way to protect your skin from irritants is to avoid contact,

your skin is through production of

won’t snap back into shape as well

inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) for

And it can show. Wrinkles, redness,

harmful substances called free

and you can experience sagging, Dr.

treatment.

and even skin cancer can result. But

radicals. Free radicals are unstable

Brady says. “The more you smoke,

before you resign yourself to the

oxygen molecules with a single

the more likely it is to happen,” he

aging effects of your environment,

electron. In short, doctors think that

explains. “If you smoke two packs a

consider the five most common

ultraviolet light from the sun can lead

day and you’ve done it for 20 years,

It’s a simple fact that as you age your

culprits of skin damage and learn

to damaged DNA and skin damage,

you have a 40-pack history.” The

skin loses its elasticity and doesn’t

what you can do to avoid them.

Dr. Samie says. Free radicals may

bigger that number, the more skin

snap back into place after you make

even play a role in the development

damage you’ll see.

facial expressions the way it did

SUN EXPOSURE

of skin cancer. They are also the

SMILES AND FROWNS

when you were younger, Samie

result of exposure to tobacco

Nicotine gum, inhalers, lozenges,

says. As a result, your skin will show

The sun is the biggest cause of skin

products or other factors in the

nasal spray, and patches can all help

wrinkles even when you’re not

damage, says Faramarz Samie, MD,

environment. Some skin care

you quit, along with prescription

frowning or laughing.

PhD, a dermatologist at Jefferson

products contain antioxidants such

medications such as Zyban

University Hospitals in Philadelphia.

as vitamins C and E that help to

(bupropion), Chantix (varenicline),

No one would say to stop living life

The ultraviolet rays of the sun break

lessen the aging effects that free

Aventyl (nortriptyline), and Catapres

or showing expression on your

down collagen and elastin, which

radicals have on your skin. Eating

(clonidine). Talk to your doctor

face, but you can try to combat

help keep your skin looking plump

plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables,

about the best option for you.

aging effects by preventing skin

and smooth.

which contain antioxidants (especially berries, broccoli, carrots,

They also affect melanocytes, which

and spinach), is also good for

can lead to changes in your skin’s

healthy skin.

pigmentation. The aging effects of the sun eventually show on your

SMOKING CIGARETTES

skin as wrinkles, age spots (patches

damage from the sun with sunIRRITANTS

screen.

Chemicals in cleaning products and

You might also consider using over-

laundry detergent can cause red,

the-counter or prescription wrinkle

irritated skin and allergies in people

creams or other topical medications

who are susceptible, Samie says.

to smooth out the skin.

of brown spots), and possibly skin

Overall, the skin of a smoker isn’t as

Ammonia and bleaches have a

cancer.

healthy and doesn’t heal as well as a

tendency to irritate skin.

nonsmoker’s skin. It also has a

Also, a host of procedures are available to reduce wrinkles,

To avoid the skin damage that can

tendency to wrinkle easily. That’s

These chemicals may cause contact

including microdermabrasion,

be caused by the sun, dermatolo-

because smoking cigarettes causes

dermatitis, which is scaling and

chemical peels, laser resurfacing,

gists advise staying out of the sun

all of your blood vessels to

irritation, and sometimes even a

and injectable fillers such as

during the middle of the day when

constrict, or get more narrow,

chemical burn. People with more

collagen.

the sun’s rays are strongest, wearing

including the vessels that feed the

sensitive skin will experience more

protective clothing such as a hat,

outer layers of your skin, says J. Greg

skin irritation than others. There are

The aging effects of the environment

and using a broad-spectrum

Brady, DO, a dermatologist and skin

also more than 3,000 substances in

can certainly show up in the mirror,

sunscreen — one that protects

cancer surgeon at Advanced

our environment that can cause

but there’s no reason you can’t fight

against both types of harmful

Dermatology Associates in

allergies.

back with these strategies.

42 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

5 Common Culprits in Skin Damage

<<<

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |43

Should You See a Dermatologist? dermatologist can suggest products or lifestyle changes that reduce your exposure to damaging elements.

Specialized care of skin, hair, and nails. You can talk to a dermatologist about almost any condition that affects your appearance. For example, warts and psoriasis won't necessarily affect long-term health, but they can affect your quality of life. Both can be treated at the dermatologist's office. Skin discolorations and stretch marks can also be improved by a dermatologist..

Treatment of scars. Dermatologists can offer skin treatments to improve the look of almost any scar, including acne scars and colloid (raised) scars. A dermatologist may refer you to a plastic surgeon for enhanced treatment of some scars, particularly those due to burns.

What to Expect at the Dermatologist's Office

C

ertain skin conditions can be treated safely at home, while others require a specialist's care. Learn how to tell the difference.

A dermatologist is a doctor who specializes in the health of your skin, hair, and nails. There may be many reasons why you need to see a dermatologist, but try to have realistic expectations in making an appointment with one, advises Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, of the University of Miami Cosmetic Center.

After all, she says, not every skin problem can be resolved.

"Conditions like stretch marks, large pores, and cellulite have treatments that can make them slightly better but cannot eliminate them completely," says Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. She says success "depends on patient expectations."

What a Dermatologist Does There are many reasons to see a dermatologist, including: Acne. Woolery-Lloyd advises visiting a dermatologist for acne that is not responding to an over-the-counter skin treatment. A dermatologist can determine which kind of prescription skin treatment would be most effective for your acne and lifestyle.

Skin cancer. A dermatologist can help screen you for skin cancer.

Recent data suggest that most people don't get their skin checked annually. An annual body check is especially important if you are in a high-risk group (fair-haired, lighteyed, with more than 40 moles on your body).

"As dermatologists, we know that the early detection of skin cancer by routine skin examinations is crucial in successfully treating [skin cancer]," says Robert S. Kirsner, MD, PhD, vice chairman of dermatology and

44 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

cutaneous surgery at the University of Miami's Miller School of Medicine.

In addition to regular screenings, you should see a dermatologist if you notice a change in the shape, size, or coloring of any of your moles. A dermatologist can remove some or all of the suspicious tissue, then examine it under a microscope for cancerous cells. Dermatologists also see people who are being treated for other cancers and experience skin side effects due to their medication.

Eczema. Many people have eczema, a chronic condition characterized by irritation, itchiness, and flaky patches of skin. A dermatologist can help find ways to manage your eczema and, if necessary, will prescribe medications.

Skin care education. If you are concerned about minimizing skin damage or caring for aging skin, a

A dermatologist's office is much like any other doctor's office. It helps to be ready for your appointment.

Getting prepared can include: Checking with your health insurance plan to find out what services are covered and whether you need a referral from your primary-care provider before making an appointment.. Taking all necessary identification and medical cards with you. Writing a list of the medications and supplements you are taking. Bringing a list of questions if you have a concern to discuss. If you want the doctor to examine the skin on your face, skip heavy cosmetics that day. And remember that while some procedures, such as a full-body skin exam, can be performed at your appointment, others will require a second or third appointment.

6

Amazing Reasons to Sleep for Skin Health

G

et your beauty sleep! The ZZZs you catch every night can have a profound impact on your skin health. Here's how.

A good night's sleep can mean good skin health because when you’re sleep-deprived, your body makes more of the stress hormone cortisol. Elevated levels of cortisol can lead to increased stress and inflammation in the body, hurting your skin’s quality.

But the relationship between skin health and lack of quality sleep can be a vicious cycle, especially with conditions like atopic dermatitis or eczema, which can lead to scratching even through the night, recent research published in the journal Clinics in Dermatology showed.

"Poor sleep can lead to increased stress hormones in the body that increase the severity of inflammatory skin conditions such as acne or psoriasis,” explains Jessica Krant, MD, MPH, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at SUNY Downstate Medical Center and founder of Art of Dermatology in New York. This can result in increased itching, which can disrupt sleep. As the vicious

cycle continues, skin conditions and sleep quality can increasingly worsen together. In contrast, skin conditions and sleep quality can also improve together. Getting a good night's sleep will help to clear up skin, which allows sleep to improve and, in turn, will improve skin health."

Not enough sleep worsens existing skin conditions. Increased inflammatory response shows up as increased acne breakouts, increased skin sensitivity, increased allergic contact dermatitis reactions, and increased irritant dermatitis — and more severe conditions mean more treatment and skin care.

throws off the body's ability to regulate the immune system, which leads not only to getting sick more often, but also to flares of immunerelated skin diseases such as psoriasis and eczema. Psoriasis is not just a skin disease; it's also an indicator of body inflammation.

"Many people with severe psoriasis actually have an increased risk for heart attacks, which is even more reason to keep stress low and get good quality sleep," Dr. Krant says.

Not enough sleep results in less beauty. While you're sleeping, the body's hydration rebalances. Skin is able to recover moisture, while excess water in general in the body is processed for removal. Not getting enough sleep results in poor water balance, leading to puffy bags under your eyes and under-eye circles, as well as dryness and more visible wrinkles.

Not enough sleep detracts from your skin's natural beauty. Increased inflammatory cells in the body lead to an increase in the breakdown of collagen and hyaluronic acid, the molecules that give the skin its glow, bounce, and translucency.

Not enough sleep makes immunerelated skin problems worse.

Increased inflammation in the body

Not enough sleep accelerates the aging process. During deep sleep, the rise in growth hormones allows damaged cells to become repaired.

Without the deeper phases of sleep, this won't occur, allowing daily small breakdowns to accumulate instead of being reversed overnight. This results in more noticeable signs of aging.

Need more convincing? Here are six reasons why not getting enough sleep detracts from skin health and your health in general:

46 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

Not enough sleep contributes to weight gain. Sleep also helps with weight management, which is good for your skin. Sleep makes you feel less hungry, Krant explains — recent studies have linked sleep deprivation to excess snacking and calorie consumption.

Getting a Good Night's Rest Here are tips from Krant for getting good sleep and better skin health: Don't eat a big meal too late in the day. Drink plenty of water throughout the day, but not late at night. Sleep under a warm blanket in a cool, dark, quiet room. Keep electronics out of the bedroom. Use breathable cotton sheets and wash them regularly, so they don't collect dust mites and bacteria. Use laundry detergents that don't have strong fragrances, which can be irritating to skin. Getting your beauty sleep isn’t an old cliché — it’s a must for having skin that glows.

A Guide to Natural Skin Care Products

>>>

48 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

W

hile you may think you prefer natural skin care, some natural ingredients may not work the best on your skin.

What should drive your purchase of skin care products is how well they work on your skin type.

In today’s world of eco-conscious living, being good to the environment is a high priority, whether you’re buying light bulbs or a cream for dry skin and wrinkles. And cosmetics companies take advantage of that by offering natural skin care products with ingredients that are touted as being better for your skin and environmentally friendly. “Natural skin care is more of a marketing term than a scientific one,” says Dee Anna Glaser, MD, a dermatologist and professor of dermatology at St. Louis University and president of the Cosmetic Surgery Foundation.

Related: 10 Foods for Healthier Skin “Products that have botanical ingredients that come from plants or nature — think honey or beeswax — tend to be labeled as natural,”’ says Dr. Glaser. They may or may not have the same ingredients that other products do. And you can find them everywhere, from drugstores to department store makeup counters to boutiques and even at dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices. In fact, so-called natural skin care products are so ubiquitous that it’s hard to tell whether they’re any better for you than other products. “‘Natural’ really doesn’t tell you anything,” Glaser says. “It’s a way of marketing [a product] to make you feel good about its use when people are trying to be green and think environmentally.”

In some cases, natural skin care products may be the way to go, but not always. “Poison ivy is natural, but that doesn’t mean you want to rub it against your skin,” Glaser says.

The Benefits of Natural Skin Care Products There are some ingredients in natural products that are soothing and calming to the skin, even if your skin

is sensitive. Glaser notes the benefits of these ingredients: Soy. Products that contain soy can soothe the skin while fading dark discolorations.

Feverfew. This herb can calm irritated, dry skin that’s prone to eczema.

Antioxidants. Vitamins C and E have real benefits for the skin. They scavenge for free radicals, which damage cell DNA, leading to wrinkles and skin aging. Unfortunately, many over-the-counter products don’t have a high enough concentration of antioxidants for them to be effective. But you can buy products such as CE Ferulic (which contains vitamins C and E) and Revaléskin (made from coffeeBerry extract) from a dermatologist or a plastic surgeon, Glazer says.

ounces at the drugstore.

Related: Celebs With Skin Issues What to Look For in Natural Skin Care Products The key to choosing natural skin care products is to choose wisely. When you’re shopping for skin care and you’re considering natural products, keep these things in mind: The fewer ingredients, the better.

When you’re buying any type of skin care product, including natural products, look for one with few ingredients, Glaser says.

Natural skin care products tend to have extra ingredients added to them, but the more that’s in it, the more likely it is to cause irritation or an allergic reaction, she says.

Big brands tend to be better. Big

companies such as Neutrogena, Dove, Oil of Olay, Aveeno, Cetaphil, and others test their products before putting them out on the market, so they’re unlikely to cause skin problems, notes Glaser.

Try retinol or retinoids. Retinol, sold over the counter in various products, and retinoids, which are available by prescription as tretinoin (Vesanoid) and tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac), are derivatives of vitamin A that help reduce wrinkles. They’re natural products that really work, Glaser says.

The bottom line is that you should choose products that work for your skin, gives you results, and have the feel and fragrance that you enjoy.

It’s a matter of trial and error, says Glaser “Part of the challenge is to find ingredients that work for you.”

Natural Skin Care Concerns Sometimes natural skin care products aren’t the best choice when you’re shopping for a moisturizer for dry skin or a cream to treat your wrinkles, Glaser says.

Among the drawbacks are: Sensitive skin irritation. Your skin type should dictate the type of products you can use, Glaser says. Someone with rosacea or sensitive skin — and about half of all women think they have sensitive skin — can be irritated by alpha hydroxy acid and glycolic acid, which are natural ingredients.

Allergic reaction. Allergens in natural skin care products can cause problems for some people.

Breakouts. Someone who’s acneprone may not be able to tolerate natural lotions that contain oils because they may clog pores and lead to breakouts.

High cost. You can find expensive traditional and natural skin care products, but in general, natural skin care products tend to be a bit more costly. An oil-free traditional face cleanser is about $5 for 5.5 ounces, while a natural cleanser that contains bark, chamomile, rosemary, and echinacea costs about $9 for 6 Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |49

Skin Care for Teen Skin

A

cne, blackheads, and oily skin top the list of teen skin complaints, says Jessica Wu, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology.

But by following her skin advice, you can keep your skin healthy and glowing.

your fingertips and a gel or foaming cleanser," Wu says. If you play sports or work hard in PE class, wash your face (if you can) before you exercise. At the very least, she says, carry facial tissues to blot your skin.

For teens who have dry rather than oily skin, try a milky cleanser and moisturizer.

The challenges of teen skin are sizable, says Dr. Wu. "Hormonal surges lead to enlargement of the oil glands, making teen skin oily and creating large pores and blackheads," she explains.

Wash off makeup before bed. Even if your best friend can sleep with her makeup on and look great, it's not a great idea. "If you're simply too exhausted to tie your hair back, take off makeup, and wash your face, at least use a pre-moistened cleansing wipe to take off makeup, dirt, and oil," Wu says.

Even though you and your friends are going through puberty together, chances are your skin is looking and feeling a bit different from your BFF's.

That means the skin tip that works for her might not work for you.

Fortunately, you can easily find the right skin advice to choose from to keep your skin clear.

Here are the top skin tips for teen skin care: Cleanse carefully. If your skin is oily, you'll probably do well with a foaming or gel cleanser for daily skin care. Cleanse once a day, or twice if your skin gets very oily or dirty throughout the day. "If a teen girl wears makeup, it's best to remove eye makeup first, then cleanse with

If you make a regular habit of sleeping in makeup, you can have an acne breakout or develop a bumpy rash called perioral or periocular dermatitis.

Control oil. You want to keep down the shine without being harsh on your skin. According to Wu, there's a basic three-step process to oil control: choose a salicylic acid cleanser, use an oil-free primer to control shine, and blot oil during the day using specialized cloths or tissues.

Exfoliate. You need to exfoliate only once or twice a week, using a

relatively gentle product. Don't scrub (it won't help with acne or blackheads) and don't over-exfoliate.

Get the right acne products. If you have breakouts, try this approach: Wash your skin, use a toner, and then apply a medicated acne gel.

Don't share makeup. "Do you want to share your friend's germs?" Wu asks. "It's an especially bad idea to share eye and lip products." So, as tempting as it is to try your friend's perfect new eye liner, get your own instead.

Keep hands clean. One way to help your skin stay healthy is to protect it from dirt and too many germs. Wash your hands before you touch your face or touch up your makeup and regularly clean other surfaces that touch your skin, such as your phone.

Choose spray hair products. If you notice that your acne breakouts cluster around your hairline or places where your hair often brushes your skin, consider that your hair product might be to blame. Make a switch to spray products, which, Wu says, "are less likely to cause breakouts."

Skip the toothpaste and other old wives' tales.

You might hear about many odd remedies to control acne, like putting toothpaste on your skin. In

fact, this could just make skin worse if you are allergic to the ingredients.

There's a ton of great skin care products on the market that can help you look your best.

Wear sunscreen. You want your skin to look healthy now and for decades to come. Using sunblock also helps keep your acne breakouts from turning dark, Wu says. Pick an oil-free product, and look for cosmetics, like liquid foundation, that contain sunscreen.

Avoid tanning beds. Get a healthy bronze glow with a self-tanner.

Tanning beds and sun tanning can set you up for early wrinkles and increased skin cancer risk later on.

Talk to a doctor. Seeing a dermatologist about acne can make a huge difference, especially if you have red, pus-filled pimples or large lumps under the skin that are painful or leaving scars. "Those can stay with you for a lifetime," Wu says. You might benefit from prescription cleansers and acne medication that can clear skin faster and more effectively than over-the-counter products.

Being a teen should be fun. Take charge of your skin care with these tips, and soon a clear complexion will put a smile back on your face.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |51

6 Steps to Younger-Looking Skin T

he right anti-aging products and treatments can turn back the clock by erasing signs of aging, fine lines and wrinkles, and other sun damage.

If you haven't been protecting your skin, it can start to give away clues about your age. Fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear, along with brown spots and rough skin patches caused by sun exposure.

Your skin might be producing less collagen, and dead skin cells don't flake off imperceptibly anymore. If this sounds like your skin, it's time to turn to anti-aging products and treatments to slow down, reduce, or even reverse the signs of aging and regain younger-looking skin.

Any skin that's been regularly exposed to the elements can be expected to show its age and needs special care to maintain its youthful look, says Sonia BadreshiaBansal, MD, CEO and medical director of Elite MD, Inc. Advanced Dermatology, Laser, and Plastic Surgery Institute in Danville, Calif.

Your Anti-Aging Action Plan At-home and doctor's office procedures can have a visible impact on your complexion, giving you back younger-looking skin.

Protect your skin. The first rule of

thumb: Prevent the damage. "The best thing to do to protect your skin is prevention," Dr. Badreshia-Bansal says. The sun is enemy number one, so you need to wear sunscreen with a sun protection factor, or SPF, of 30 or higher whenever you're outside. You also should wear longsleeved shirts and pants. Protect your face and neck with widebrimmed hats, your eyes with sunglasses with UV coating. Dryness is enemy number two, making lines seem more noticeable, so choose a moisturizer made for your skin type and use it regularly to keep skin supple.

Apply a vitamin A cream. Prescription-strength, vitamin A–based topical gels or creams known as retinoids can reduce wrinkles and produce younger-looking skin. "It helps to build collagen, which can prevent the development of fine lines and wrinkles, and to lighten dark spots," Badreshia-Bansal says.

"We also use it to treat acne, and it can help prevent precancerous growths." Prescription retinoids include Retin-A and Renova (tretinoin), Differin (adapalene), and Avage (tazarotene).

Bleach your brown spots. You can try lightening brown spots (also called age spots) with a bleaching cream that contains hydroquinone.

"Hydroquinone helps inhibit an

52 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

important enzyme in pigment synthesis," Badreshia-Bansal explains.

Pick up a pentapeptide anti-wrinkle cream. These anti-aging creams stimulate the skin's production of collagen and elastin and are found in some drugstore or beauty counter products. "You're helping to build back the support structure that's been lost through aging and sun damage," Badreshia-Bansal says.

Peel to reveal fresher skin. Dermatologists use various methods to remove the top layer of skin and expose new skin. These procedures can help tighten the skin and diminish fine lines and brown spots.

"By exfoliating that top layer, you're allowing the moisturizers and other products we use to penetrate deeper and work better," BadreshiaBansal says.

Procedures include: Chemical peel solutions to loosen and slough away the top layer of skin. Laser skin resurfacing to vaporize the surface skin. Microdermabrasion that sprays tiny particles to strip away topmost skin cells. Plasma skin regenera-

tion using a stream of ionized nitrogen gas to heat the skin and cause the top layer of cells to flake away.

Consider Botox. Injections of botulinum toxin have become tremendously popular as an antiaging therapy. The injections relax the muscles under the skin and can eliminate deep lines and wrinkles around the face. Botox treatments also can help prevent new wrinkles from appearing.

You have many options available to create younger-looking skin. Factors including cost and the recovery time associated with procedures like peels will help you decide on your best course of action.

Best anti-aging treatments for a younger looking complexion.

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your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. Look for one with zinc or titanium oxide in the ingredient list.”

Are you tired of waging a war against wrinkles? Scott Gerrish, MD, of Gerrish and Associates, PC, a non-surgical skin care specialist with offices in Virginia and Maryland states, “Don’t give up yet. There are steps you can take to lessen and even reverse one of the biggest signs of aging: wrinkles.”

Avoid environmental pollutants.

Ozone, smoke, and gasoline fumes are just a few of the pollutants that can age skin and cause premature wrinkles. Start an anti-aging skin care program. June Breiner, MD, an internist in Maryland suggests, “Consult with a non-surgical skin care doctor. There are many products available that thicken your skin and reduce wrinkles.”

rotecting and caring for your skin are the best anti-aging treatments for a younger looking complexion.

Simple and Smart Skin Care Steps to Reduce Wrinkles Avoid sun exposure. Try to wear white or light colors, and wear a hat when you’re outdoors. Also, don’t use tanning booths, which can be worse than the sun.

Wear sunscreen. For the best antiaging protection, Dr. Gerrish strongly recommends, “Apply sunscreen with at least an SPF 15 (sun protection factor) thirty minutes before sun exposure to protect

Avoid smoking and second-hand smoke. Smoking takes away oxygen and nutrients, and it also increases the number of free radicals in your body’s cells, a main cause of skin aging. “The amount of cigarette consumption and the number of years you have smoked are correlated with an increase in premature wrinkles,” states Dr. Breiner. Wear sunglasses. Other than staying indoors and away from windows, sunglasses are the best way to protect the thin, sensitive

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skin around your eyes from UV radiation.

Sleep on your back, if possible.

Sleeping with your face pressed against the pillow can cause sleep lines, which can turn into wrinkles.

Satin pillow cases can also help in the anti-wrinkle fight.

Use moisturizer. A good moisturizer will keep skin hydrated and soften wrinkles. Exercise regularly. “It gets your cardiovascular system going, which is great for getting needed nutrients and oxygen to your skin,” Breiner explains. “You should get cardiovascular exercise for your heart and skin health, and weight strengthening exercises for muscle underlying your skin.”

tremendous ability to fight the aging process as they are chock full of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that your body needs to combat wrinkles, says Breiner.

Avoid processed and refined foods and sugars. They contain chemicals that can cause your skin to age prematurely. Try Retin-A or Renova.

Gerrish recommends, “See your doctor for a prescription of Retin-A, a cream that has been proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and thicken thinning skin, which is part of the aging process.”

If your skin is very dry, ask about Renova, a gentler formulation of the anti wrinkle cream.

Avoid stress. When you’re stressed Eat a nutritious, anti-aging diet. Drink plenty of water and teas, and get eight to ten servings daily of fruits and vegetables. Eat fresh caught Atlantic salmon three times a week or another fish high in omega 3 fatty acids, such as herring, mackerel, trout, or tuna. Foods have a

out, your body releases a powerful aging hormone, cortisol, into your blood stream. “If you have chronic stress, take yoga, write in a journal daily, sing, take a walk, meditate. Do whatever works for you to reduce stress,” suggests Gerrish.