BFW January-February 2016

beauty FIND YOUR PRETTIEST LOOK INSIDE!

www.beautyfashionworld.in

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2016

& FASHION WORLD

the

beauty trends!

Fashion HEATS UP!

Get Your

Mommy Makeover!

Glow!

NewYear,

NewYou!

Go Gorgeous! COSMETICS

|

PERFUMERY

|

HAIRDRESSING

|

NAILS

BRINGING THE INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR OF BEAUTY & WELLNESS INDUSTRY TO INDIA www.BeautyIndiaShow.com

24th to 26th October 2016 Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India | 10am - 7pm For exhibiting and sponsorship opportunities, please contact Himanshu Gupta on Mobile:+91 98 1009 7166 or Email: Himanshu.Gupta@SumansaGroup.com Conceptualised, planned and organised by:

Supported By

International Media

National Media

E-Media Partners

On-Line News Partner

Digital Partner

COSMETICS

|

AESTHETICS

|

HAIRDRESSING

|

NAILS

www.beautyfashionworld.in

beauty & FASHION WORLD

Power Perfumes Return to the Scene In the fragrance world, that decade manifested itself as potent concoctions designed to surround a woman in a cloud, then trail behind her down the street. A woman’s aromatic aura may have induced a headache in anyone within five feet, but at least people remembered her after she left the room.

The hot fragrances of that decadent time — Opium, Poison, Obsession — are not making a comeback (at least not yet), but the impulse to make a lasting impression with scent has returned in force.

A new generation of power perfumes has emerged, and this time it is the fave-crazed millennials who are clamoring for increasingly strong, memorable fragrances that will become as much of a signature for them Roja Dove, a high-end British perfumer who has a shop in Harrods, is known throughout Europe and the Middle East for his oud fragrances, which use real oud oil and can cost upward of $500 a bottle. This summer, he introduced a Tutti Frutti Aoud line to appeal to younger customers who were drawn to the ingredient, cutting the agarwood with notes like raspberry, strawberry and violet.

In October, the French perfume house Diptyque introduced its first oud scent, Oud Palao. Myriam Badault, the creative director of the house, calls oud “the new patchouli.” “Strong, creative fragrances are back,” she said, “and we really feel that perfume experts are not looking anymore for clean and ‘me too’ products.”

The “clean” fragrance that Ms. Badault alludes to has dominated much of the last decade, with perfume houses pumping out delicate scents that would never offend the nose (Think Armani’s oceanic Acqua di Gioia or Byredo’s soft, lemon-peppery Gypsy Water.) But even cleaner fragrances are getting funkier and more striking, redolent of rain, dirt and fresh herbs.

The new power perfumes are not about arriving at the party in a haze of an unavoidable bouquet, but rather showing up smelling like no one else, and then leaving people clamoring to know what mysterious and enigmatic fragrance you are wearing. And if that is not a modern-day power move, what is?

Printed, Published & Owned by Amrita Kanwar. Published at D 182, PR House, Anand Vihar, Delhi 110 092 and Printed at Chandu Press, 63, Patparganj, Delhi. Editor : Amrita Kanwar

Do you want your business network to profit from the expertise of the French perfumery and cosmetics sector and its network?

will help you achieve this goal in 2 ways:

By inviting you to the Cosmetic 360 trade fair in PARIS, the global showcase for innovations in Perfumery and Cosmetics:

By working with you to build long-lasting networking relationships in the form of:

• To promote your innovations to the most powerful decision-makers in the sector

• Collaborative projects, R&D programmes, trans-cluster initiatives, and the like

• To attend one-on-one Open Innovation meetings with the most important buyers in the industry

• Business proposals passed on to the companies in our network

• To benefit from BtoB meetings focused specifically on the trade fair

• International economic and territorial analysis assignments.

• To take advantage of the series of conferences scheduled for the trade fair, providing cutting-edge expertise and know-howin Perfumery and Cosmetics.

contact@cosmetic-valley.com +33 (0) 2 37 211 211 1 place de la Cathédrale 28000 Chartres FRANCE

The Grand Success of Cosmetic 360 in 2015

COSMETIC 360 TO RETURN IN 2016 WITH BIG OPPORTUNITIES close collaboration with the CES show in Las Vegas, the world’s largest event dedicated to innovation and trends in consumer electronics and technology, including robots, beauty tech items and other high-tech devices.

The Cosmetic Valley’s leading team is convinced that innovation is the key to the attractiveness and international fame of made in France cosmetics. Building up on an increasing number of members, a network of 800 companies and eight universities including a total of 200 laboratories and 8,600 researchers over a territory covering three French regions (Centre, Normandy and Ile-de-France), they want to gather under the same roof what the best innovations of the cosmetics supply chain, from France and the rest of the world.

From left to right: François Demachy and Thierry Wasser, noses from Dior and Guerlain, Emmanuel Macron, French Minister for Economic Affairs, Industry and Digital, Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, Hongjun DU, President of China Summit, Mr Sakai, Mayor of Karatsu (Japan Cosmetic Cluster) ; behind the minister; Jean-Luc Ansel, Founding Director of Cosmetic Valley.

Compulsory Photo credit Founding: Photo Arnaud Lombard/Cosmetic Valley

T

he international cosmetic innovation trade show, Cosmetic 360, organized by the Cosmetic Valley, took place in Paris. The first edition of Cosmetic 360, which was held by the Cosmetic Valley cluster on 15-16 October 2015, welcomed 4.043 Unique Visitors, including 14% international visitors from 53 countries, according to the organizers.

This first edition focused on SMEs and their innovations. The Cosmetic Valley has made the decision to back Open Innovation and use Cosmetic 360 as a platform for bringing together innovative project

leaders (start-ups, laboratories, SMEs, microenterprises, etc.) and the Research and Innovation teams of the major names in the competitiveness cluster (Boots, Chanel, Johnson&Johnson, L’Oréal, LVMH Recherche, Puig, Shiseido) through pre-arranged meetings. About 250 applications have been submitted and 180 meetings have been held over the two days of the fair.

According to the organisers, 44 projects (out the 250 which were presented) should lead to a cooperation project during the coming year.

Contrasting with the recent trend toward increasingly specialized events, Cosmetic 360 aims to gather a wide span of cosmetic innovations: functional packaging (digital packaging, antimicrobial packaging, interactive packaging combining LED and microprocessors...), new materials (ceramics, bio-based materials), new actives (molecules from the cosmetopea, anti-microbial natural raw materials, anti-pollution

actives...), new testing and measurement equipment (contact free acoustic rheology, highresolution ultrasound for cosmetic applications, ex vivo objectification...), new manufacturing equipment, new products (alcoholfree perfumed balls, customised cosmetics, connected beauty, augmented reality...).

Managing more than a hundred research projects involving SMEs, large groups and academic laboratories, the Cosmetic Valley also intends to promote exchanges between these various operators.

The organizers of Cosmetic 360 thus offer leading cosmetics groups the opportunity to participate in the event through dedicated open innovation spaces where they can have pre-arranged appointments to discuss innovative projects with companies picked up from a list produced by the organizers.

The second edition of the Cosmetic 360 tradeshow will take place on 13 and 14 October 2016 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. For this new edition, the Cosmetic Valley is going big by increasing the exhibition area from 3,000 to 5,000 m2, thus opening the possibility to gather 240 exhibitors in 2016, vs.

150 in 2015.

During the show Connected beauty shall also be highlighted, thanks a Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 5

Looking at the grand success of COSMETIC 360 held 2015, the trade fair for the future innovations & solutions in the Cosmetics & Perfumery Industries, team of Beauty & Fashion World Magazine (BFW) spoken with Mrs Franckie VENET, Cosmetic Valley Export & Communication Manager & Cosmetic 360 Director.

exclusive interview

Mrs Franckie VENET, Cosmetic Valley Export & Communication Manager & Cosmetic 360 Director BFW: When you compare all the different sectors of the Beauty Industry in France such as Skin Care , Makeup , Hair , Nails and Fragrances ? Which sector would you say has shown a tremendous growth and has given the best result ?

Franckie: Growth is everywhere as soon as there is innovation. Cosmetic 360 trade show is an amazing place to promote innovations useful for perfumery & cosmetic sector.

Senior management figures from all over the world are there, in the prestigious gallery of Le louvre museum, to find new ideas with the intention of developing new products, new partnerships, new collaborative projects to increase their competitiveness and sales.

Budgets for innovation are still increasing in France, and in lots of other countries, because 30% of products have been forgotten about within four years of being launched, and we don’t know half of the products that will be on the market in five years’ time.

So innovation is vital, and Cosmetic 360 is a showcase for French and international innovation.

6 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

BFW: What kind of changes and growth have you seen in all these years in the French Cosmetics & Beauty Industry?

Franckie: More than ever innovation is an essential component of the attractiveness of brand France and its international image. For, as well as maintaining the qualities of elegance and excellence traditionally and culturally associated with its products, the French perfumery and cosmetics industry must position itself very clearly at the forefront of innovation. The market is governed by product marketing with a strong, and ever stronger, desire for novelty, which poses a constant challenge.

Cosmetic & Beauty Industry players needed a top-flight international trade fair but also a trade fair devoted specifically to innovation in the perfumery and cosmetics industry.

Because of the quality and renown of its products, its reputation for research, its creativity, and the presence of a competitiveness cluster to drive research and innovation throughout the cosmetics industry, France is the obvious country to host this kind of trade show.

Cosmetic 360, with its focus on research and the development of the

industry’s knowledge and know-how, is the cosmetics event of the year. It helps to promote innovation in the various areas of the perfumery and cosmetics industry, and offers professionals some turnkey solutions.

Cosmetic 360 is an innovation-centred meeting place where all members of the industry can get together, exchange ideas and create the beauty of the future.

BFW: How was your response to your first show, which we believe is very successful for you? And how many countries & visitors attracted towards this fair?

Franckie: Cosmetic 360 is not just about technological innovation.

Innovation has a role to play in every link of the chain: ingredients and actives, formulation, design, packaging, testing, logistics and supply chain, POS, and selling spaces.

The fair is designed as a meeting place for players in innovation and industry professionals from every sphere: technical, R&D, general and marketing, trade and purchasing, and academic research.

BFW: Which product categories work better in the France? And which are the new trends in Cosmetics & Perfumery Industry?

Franckie: The use of digital tools in the world of beauty has revolutionized the relationship between brands and consumers: smartphone or tablet applications, diagnostic and measuring devices, intelligent packaging, connected objects for ‘wellness coaching’... All this is a matter of innovation in a sector poised for giddy progress since, according to Start-up magazine, 15% of all objects will be connected by the year 2020, with a particularly strong impact on the health and beauty sector!

BFW: Which are the most attractive areas for you in Cosmetics 360 Show?

Where do you find innovative products, design, new technologies and concept?

Franckie: There are different hot spots on Cosmetic 360 like:

The concept underlying the fair sets a priority for trade stands: to promote innovation first, their company second.

the open innovation zone: Cosmetic 360 offers the innovative projects initiators an exceptional opportunity to meet with decision-makers from the perfumery and cosmetics industry who will be present in the “Open Innovation”space at the trade fair. 180 personalized meetings in this space are scheduled, with a preferential access to the most prestigious brands like Chanel, LVMH, L’Oréal, Johnson&Johnson...

For visitors, Cosmetic 360 is a chance to discover innovative products for the entire industry.

the start up zone: where you can discover new promising innovative companies.

In 2015, more than 4 000 highly educated French and foreign visitors came from 53 different countries. Regarding the success of Cosmetic 360 last year, the fair will increase its area and its number of exhibitors.

the conference room: the program of conferences is on cutting-edge technology and the latest trends.

BFW: Which characteristics should a company have to be successful in France?

BFW: Can you please describe the theme of your first show, are you able to achieve goals and what is your future expectations for next Cosmetics 360 show?

Franckie: The innovations presented at the fair in 2015 concerned the entire chain: functional packaging (including digital packaging, antibacterial packaging, and interactive packaging using LED and microprocessors), new materials (for example, ceramics being offered by the Japanese for packaging or as a filtration material, and bio-based materials), new actives (such as molecules from the ‘cosmetopea’, natural antibacterial raw materials, antipollution actives and genomic actives), new testing and measuring instruments (contactless acoustic rheology, high-resolution ultrasound for cosmetic applications, ex vivo objectification), new manufacturing equipment (continuous processes and 3D impressions), and new products (alcohol-free perfume balls, connected bracelet that measures exposure to the sun, a patch that measures the skin’s activity, customised cosmetics, connected beauty and augmented reality).

We fully achieved our ambition: to create the inescapable “place to be” each year for innovation in the perfumery and cosmetics industry.

Cosmetic 360 is in opposition with the generalist approach of others main cosmetic trade shows, not favorable to SMEs, which find themselves drowned out by the sheer volume of products on offer. With its highly qualitative format, deliberately adapted to SMEs - small, modular turnkey stands - Cosmetic 360 is opting for efficiency and pragmatism: a trade show offering high visibility to its exhibitors...

In 2016, we will strengthen BtoB connections between international delegations and order makers before and during the trade show.

Franckie: It needs to innovate, to be high-performance and to be safe for people and environment.

BFW: France as a Beauty Industry, do you think the consumers here in France are very much brand conscious?

Franckie: Definitely French consumer is one of the most demanding of the world, its why there are so famous French Brands!

The second edition of the Cosmetic 360 tradeshow will take place on 13 and 14 October 2016 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris.

Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 7

Fashion Heats Up!

Zara owner dismisses China slump fears as it reports 20% profit rise Inditex records profits of €2bn in the first three quarters with group ‘very optimistic’ about China prospects despite downturn Inditex, the owner of clothing retailer Zara, has said it is optimistic about its prospects in China despite the slowing economy, claiming mid-market brands were not feeling the pinch. It came as the group, whose founder, Armancio Ortega, briefly overtook Bill Gates as the world’s wealthiest man this year, reported an overall sales rise of 16% to €14.7bn (£10.6bn) in the first three quarters of this year, with profits up 20% to €2.02bn.

Flipkart launches dedicated children's store 'Li'l Stars' India's largest ecommerce company Flipkart has marked children as a "high focus" category in the fashion segment for the coming year and has announced the launch of 'Flipkart Li'l Stars' , a store dedicated to children on its platform.

Sales volumes of children's clothing and accessories reportedly grew more than three times in the past year, contributing more than 10 per cent to Flipkart's overall fashion business. They're expected to increase five-fold in the year ahead.

"The growing exposure of both parents and children towards global fashion trends and the rising income levels of the Indian working class are one of the key contributing factors towards the growth of the kids' category," Rishi Vasudev, vice president fashion, Flipkart. "Toys form the most popular vertical in this category, closely followed by kids fashion and baby care," he added.

This year, child-focussed international brands such as The Children's Place and Poney have entered the Indian market. Spanish fashion apparel brand Pepe Jeans launched a kids' wear segment in India and plans to open 10 exclusive stores in this category.

"Kidswear is a category which we see huge opportunities in, but scalability and pricing mismatches have so far prevented large-scale branding in the segment in India," J Suresh, Managing Director & CEO of Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd who has partnered with The Children's Place for Indian foray, told Indiaretailing.

Technopak reveals that Indian apparel market is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of nine percent, from USD 41 billion in 2013 to USD102 billion in 2023. In 2013, the kidswear segment, at USD 8.3 billion, alone contributed 20 percent of India’s entire apparel market. Given its higher growth rate, this share is expected to increase to 22 percent by 2023.

8 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

While luxury western brands such as Burberry have struggled in the Chinese downturn, bosses at the Spanish retail group, which also has Massimo Dutti, Bershka and Oysho in its portfolio, remain upbeat.

Zara owner Inditex boosts profits by 26% “We have no doubt that the fashion appetite in China is large, our brands are better and better known. We are still feeling very optimistic,” said Pablo Isla, the chief executive. Inditex has 514 stores in China, where it makes about 7% of its sales. Although growth in the country is predicted to fall to 6% in 2016, per capita income is forecast to rise from an average of $7,000 (£4,600) to $12,000 over the next five years.

The company has opened 230 new shops around the world in 2015, the same as last year, bringing the total to 6,913 in 88 countries. Spain has the most, with 1,824 shops, followed by China and Russia. Zara had the most new openings with 60 stores. There were also 44 new Zara Home outlets and 26 new branches for the underwear chain Oysho – significantly accelerating their expansion. At the same time Zara’s online operation is being extended to cover all of the European Union, Taiwan and Hong Kong, while zarahome.com has launched in Australia.

The company said it added 13,079 new jobs in the past 12 months, of which 3,291 were in Spain – which is still struggling with mass unemployment with more than one in five out of work. Inditex employs 146,478 people globally and any employee with two or more years’ service receives a bonus based on 10% of the annual increase in profits. The group’s main mid-market rivals in China are H&M and the Japanese company Fast Retailing, parent company of Uniqlo, which opened its first store in Shanghai in 2002 – four years before Inditex opened in the same city – and now has more than 400 outlets across the country.

The Japanese company plans to park its tanks on Inditex’s lawn when it opens its first store in Spain next year. It has already optioned a property on Barcelona’s main shopping thoroughfare Passeig de Gràcia but is said to be having second thoughts due to the unstable political situation in Catalonia and may opt to open in Madrid’s Gran Via instead. Inditex emphasised the large charitable donations it has made towards helping refugees in Europe as well as organisations such as Médecins sans Frontières, Every Mother Counts and Water.org. The group’s charitable foundation has funded a number of nursery schools and health centres in Galicia, home to its founder.

Home and Personal Care Ingredients Exhibition & Conference 2016 India Mumbai, BEC March 10.-11.,2016

B

ook your space at India`s largest event for Home- and Personal Care Formulations now. Only few stands available!

The Indian economy is the third largest in the world in terms of purchasing power, and is going to reach new heights in the coming years. As predicted by Goldman Sachs, the Global Investment Bank, by 2035 India would be the third largest economy in the world just after US and China. Latest figures show a 7.5% growth rate of the Indian economy - even slightly higher than the Chinese growth rate.

According to TechSci Research report, "India Women's Cosmetics Market Forecast & Opportunities, 2020", the country's women's cosmetics market is projected to

register a CAGR of over 16% during 2015-20.

Additionally, men's grooming is becoming more important as well and growing with double digit growth rates.

A recently published report on Ingredients for Household, Industrial, and Institutional Cleaning Applications by international market research and management consulting firm Kline, finds that this market carries equally sustainable growth potential as the Personal Care markets, with some country markets increasing at double-digit rates during the forecast period from 2014-2019. India is forecast to post the strongest growth of almost 13% over the same times span.

With 176 exhibitors and over 2500 visitors in 2015, HPCI India offers the most effective B2B platform for the personal care and home care industries in the region.

Why one woman doesn't gift perfume to another

W

omen do not buy perfume for other women and they certainly do not share them, an interesting study has revealed. Women who do buy or share fragrances with other women choose fragrances they do not like themselves - or no longer value, the findings showed.

Many women keep their perfume preferences a secret because they consider them an integral part of their personal identity, suggests the study published in the journal Food Quality and Preference. "Women treasure fragrances as a vital pillar of their personal identity," said study co-author Bryan Howell, industrial design professor at Brigham Young University in the US. "They may use the same fragrance for many years, and some women keep their fragrance choice a secret so their friends won't wear it," Howell said. The study investigated fragrance-buying intentions of 146 women from the US and the Netherlands.

When it comes to scents, women like to sabotage their best female friends, the researchers found. "When women like a fragrance, they will purchase it for themselves or a male friend, but not for a female friend," Howell said. "When they dislike a scent, they won't purchase it for themselves or their boyfriend, but they will buy it for a female friend," Howell said. Further interviews with 12 women about their fragrance buying behaviour revealed why women buy fragrances for men. "While women hold fragrances as personally intimate and respect other women's intimate choices, they happily want to influence what fragrances men wear," Howell said. "Assuming it is for a spouse or boyfriend, they want to pick fragrances they also like since they will be around that person often," Howell said.

10 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Cosmétique Marine | 1962

2 PATENTS + 7 EXCLUSIVE MARINE COMPLEXES

Radiance & health

for my skin

THE LASH GAMES LAUNCHES – PREPARE FOR BATTLE

W

E ARE EXCITING TO ANNOUNCE THE LAUNCH OF THE LASH GAMES HOSTED BY OLYMPIA BEAUTY 2-3RD OCTOBER 2016.

• Classic Look – The application of single eyelash extensions

THIS NEW COMPETITION CELEBRATES THE EVER GROWING LASH INDUSTRY, WELCOMING ONE OF THE BEST EVER JUDGING LINE UPS PULLED FROM ALL FOUR CORNERS OF THE GLOBE.

• Dramatic 4+ Volume - 3-6D volume eyelash extensions application

COMPETITORS WILL BATTLE IT OUT OVER TWO DAYS OF FIERCE COMPETITION ACROSS FOUR CATEGORIES FOR FOUR SEPARATE SKILL LEVELS. COMPETITORS FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE WILL BE DRAWN TO OLYMPIA TO LASH IT OUT TO BE CROWNED THE ULTIMATE WINNER. THE FOUR DIFFERENT COMPETITION CATEGORIES WILL BE:

12 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

• 2D / 3D Volume – The application of 2D volume eyelash extensions

• Fantasy – The theme for the 2016 Fantasy Category will be “The London Look” with inspiration from the 60’s, 70’s & 80’s music & fashion from those era’s.

THE FOUR ENTRY LEVELS ARE: • Division 1 – Novice - Up to 1.5 years’ experience. There will be a UK 1st 2nd & 3rd awarded plus an International 1st 2nd and 3rd awarded. We will then crown a Winner of Winners Award

• Division 2 - Lash Professional Minimum of 1.5 years’ experience, never won either UK or Internationally • Division 3 – Master - Minimum of 2.5 years’ experience, who has competed and won either UK or Internationally • Division 4 – Expert 2.5 years and above experience and applies only to teachers and trainers both UK & Internationally.

THE WEBSITE LAUNCHES TODAY TUESDAY 1ST DECEMBER 2015, PLEASE VISIT WWW.THELASHGAMES.CO.UK FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE EVENT AND LET THE LASH GAMES COMMENCE AT OLYMPIA BEAUTY ON 2ND AND 3RD OCTOBER 2016!

W O R L D N O V E LT I E S 2 0 1 5 United Brands designed new unique applicators to meet the next season’s make up trends.

Our 100% MADE IN GERMANY quality, added to our unlimited possibilities of packaging and color, will make your line like no other.

Come to us with your vision and we will turn it into reality!

PRIVATE LABEL / OEM COSMETIC PEN MANUFACTURER COLOGNE • GERMANY | WWW.U-B-M.COM

Epique's new Advanced UV Protection Cream is a non greasy formula that is just perfect for your skin:

L

ive and let live is the motto behind Epique's new UV Protection Cream. Equipped with a non-greasy formula that allows your skin to

breathe, this cream contains anti-ageing ingredients that lets you look and feel beautiful inside out.

What makes this range of UV cream so extraordinary is that it is infused with concentrated plant molecular and powerful 50 SPF (UVA + UVB) formula that protects your skin through the day.

The ingredients used are clinically tested and is best suited for all skin type since the light-weight UV Protection Phyto-Concentrate formula is easily absorbed. This is what makes it a non-greasy formula that leaves no white residue.

Epiquelab's UV Protection Phyto-Concentrate complex contains concentrated plant molecular extracts of Pure Boswellia Serrata Resin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root and Coleus Forskohlin Root that offer very high, broad spectrum protection which protects skin from both UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) rays, Known for its long lasting broad spectrum, this cream prevents darkening, skin darkening and photo-ageing. This special formula also contains proven skin-soothing, anti-ageing ingredients and several antioxidants that neutralizes sun-induced free-radical damage, lines and wrinkles and dark spots. All of which resulting in skin that feels nourished and supple. Seriously what more could you want right?

So go on. Step out. Be the hot-stepper this season.

Price: Rs 2700 for 15 ml and Rs 3600 for 50 ml.

Available at Epique, Ambience Mall, Vasant Kunj.

For further information , please visit: www.myepique.com

14 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

YOUR PARTNER FOR PROFESSIONAL BEAUTICIANS

COLOR COSMETICS

SKIN CARE

FIND OUT MORE: www.maluwilz.de 路 www.american-nails.com

Visit us at COSMOPROF ASIA HONG KONG 11 - 13 November 路 Booth 1E - L3C

N A I L A RT

French perfume maker bottles scent of the departed

H

uman smell of deceased loved ones – or even living lovers – can be reproduced and bottled, according to Katia Apalategui A French company has come up with a novel way to keep people close to their departed loved ones: bottling their unique scent as a perfume.

Like many struggling to get over the death of a loved one, Katia Apalategui’s mum held on to her late husband’s pillowcase to keep

the precious smell of the man she loved. It inspired the 52-year-old insurance saleswoman to think up ways to capture and preserve a person’s individual scent so people in her position would never have to long for a whiff of their loved one again.

After years of knocking on doors to try and develop her idea, Apalategui was put in touch with the northwestern Havre university which has developed a technique to reproduce the human smell. “We take the person’s clothing and extract the

odour – which represents about a hundred molecules – and we reconstruct it in the form of a perfume in four days,” explained the university’s Geraldine Savary.

The powerful link between smell and memory means the product offers “olfactory comfort”, Apalategui claims, on a par with photos, videos and other memories of the deceased.

Her son, who is currently in business school, plans to launch their business by September with

the help of a chemist. “We are going through funeral homes to offer families a small box containing a vial of the departed’s odour that we would have extracted from a piece of material provided by them,” said Apalategui “It’s made-to-measure and will sell for around 560 euros ($600),” she added.

However she hopes the technology will not only be limited to the morbid, but could be used as a Valentine’s Day gift between lovers, or even for children temporarily away from their parents.

Gary Cockerill receives 2016 “Golden Mask for Make-up Artistry” BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF: Coveted Award for Top International Artist

I

n March British make-up artist Gary Cockerill will be presented the 2016 “Golden Mask for Make-up Artistry” at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF. Gary Cockerill is seen as an expert for both beauty and celebrity make-up and is honoured for his extraordinary career and outstanding creativity. The award ceremony will be held at the Meeting Point in Hall 10 of BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF at 3.30 pm on Saturday, 5 March 2016.

Gary Cockerill is one of the most highly regarded and successful make-up artists in Great Britain. He has been active in the make-up business for over 25 years now and is seen as a highly respected expert in the sector. His creativity and variety are in great demand regardless of whether this is in the fashion sector, for celebrities and show business or television appearances.

A long list of celebrities trust in his make-up skills: Eva Longoria, Rachel Hunter, Jerry Hall, Katie Price, Kelly Brook, Melanie Griffith, Martine McCutcheon, Honor Blackman, Isla Fisher and even Rupert Everett, Antonio Banderas and David Beckham. Gary Cockerill boasts an unmistakable eye for optimum colour selection and make-up suited to type. He has a natural gift for accentuating a face and giving it radiance.

The winner of this year’s Golden Mask for Make-Up Artistry is now a famous name. However, his professional career began in all but normal surroundings. As a former coalminer his skills are self-taught. With great commitment, attention to detail as well as passion and inspiration Gary Cockerill managed to achieve great heights. Published in 2015 his beauty book “Simply Glamorous” is now already a bestseller. Since 2006 the Berlin firm KRYOLAN PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP and Messe Düsseldorf GmbH have jointly awarded 16 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

the “Golden Mask for Make-Up Artistry”. Every year this prize honours a make-up artist for their creativity and the contribution they make to the image of the profession as a whole.

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF 2016 runs from Friday to Sunday, 4 to 6 March 2016 and is open every day from 9 am to 6 pm. All visitors must accredit themselves as trade visitors before purchasing their admission tickets.

Visitors can register beforehand at www.beauty.de. For all other information on BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF also go to the website or call the BEAUTY Hotline on +49 (0)211 4560-7602.

The French Perfume Companies Shaking Up the Industry

F

or evidence that the perfume industry hasn’t changed much in decades, just take a walk through the perfume floor of a typical department store. The Perfume Cowboys may be slightly less prevalent, but the same marketing techniques still apply: salespeople shouting "Burberry!"

"Chanel!" (and occasionally "Bieber!"

"Swift!") and trying to convince shoppers to buy the latest concoction via nasal assault. While the introduction of synthetics into perfume-making has yielded some technological progress, perfume companies can be hesitant to talk about it, fearful of dispelling the myth that every element in your fragrance is distilled from rose petals personally stomped by a perfumer in Grasse.

Enter Ex Nihilo, a luxury French perfume cooperative looking to

shake up the conservative perfume industry — beginning with a perfume-making robot called the Osmologue. The company's three Parisian founders, Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère, and Benoît Verdier, hope to do things differently. They launched with eight new scents, none of which are inspired by love, seduction, or any of the other themes perfumers usually reference.

Instead, there is Vetiver Moloko, which is based off of the milk narcotic cocktail in A Clockwork Orange, and Fleur Narcotique, a scent that twists the flowery notes of neroli to become slightly metallic and druggy-smelling.

“Consumers are very educated — at every duty-free, you can find the same perfumes around the world.

It’s standardized. Consumers want something different — they want something unexpected and

20 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

personalized,” Verdier explains. On its site, Ex Nihilo says it wants to create “scents [the company could] easily recommend to Stanford postgrads or a European Center for Nuclear Research employee.” Each bottle of perfume comes with an intricate 3-D-modeled cap, the inside of which is YSL Moroccan blue, the company's signature color and one that figures prominently at its first, Christophe Pillet–designed Rue Saint-Honoré store. At the boutique, customers experience scent via specially designed light installation. Fragrance are contained in funnel-shaped light "vases" called the vases de senteurs (scented vases). When the vase is turned on, it releases a small "pfft" of fragrance that the customer leans over to smell, an intimate experience that dispels all traces of unpleasant alcohol. Shoppers can thus try all of the scents without fragrance overload.

The Osmologue sits in the back of the store, carrying out demibespoke orders. “Of course, it’s very romantic to have a guy doing everything by hand. But in terms of

quality, the Osmologue gives you the best quality — it’s very precise and allows for the most accurate weighing of raw materials, giving you the exact same quantity every time,” says Verdier. It's the Grasse customperfume experience in the 21st century. Customers can choose from three different twists to an already-existing Ex Nihilo fragrance and the Osmologue will create the perfume in front of them.

The reaction from old-guard perfumers to Ex Nihilo’s contemporary approach has been mixed. “No one was expecting us — we are challengers in the market. We got some bad reactions from conservative perfumers — some came in to take pictures with their iPhone.

Others haven’t said anything. They might have something to say in two, three years. At the moment, we don’t exist for them. We’re dangerous,” says Verdier. Ex Nihilo has opened its first store in New York at Bergdorf Goodman in September. You can find the company in the salon at Harrods or at 352 Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris.

Dubai Duty Free receives historical French perfume statuette

D

represents two thirds of total French perfume production and employs

thanks to Serge and his family for thinking of Dubai Duty Free for this

business grow. DDF is the benchmark by which all travel retails

limited edition statuette of the 17th century symbol of French

2,700 people, generating a turnover of €600 million.

honour. Thanks also to Mr. Quiquempois of the Museum in

operators are judged.”

perfume maker L’habit du Parfumeur (the robe of the perfume maker).

Dubai Duty Free Executive Vice

Grasse for travelling to Dubai for this presentation.”

Curator of the International Perfume Museum of Grasse Olivier

The statuette, which is a replica of

Chairman Colm McLoughlin said: “We are honoured to receive such a

Creation President Serge Kotovsky

Quiquempois commented: “I am very honoured and it is a very

the original work commissioned by the Mayor of Grasse in 1997, was

significant symbol of such an important element of our business.

added: “There are only eight statues which have been created and in the

emotional moment to have been invited to Dubai today. Grasse is

presented to Dubai Duty Free Executive Vice Chairman Colm

Perfume sales are the biggest contribution to our overall sales at

last 18 years, only two statues have been presented. The first was

historically the cradle of the modern perfume and the region remains the

McLoughlin by Creation President Serge Kotovsky, a long serving

Dubai Duty Free, accounting for 16.36% of sales or US$268.82

presented to Shiseido Japan and the second was to Interparfums. The

capital of the perfumery by the dynamism of its industry and by the

perfume supplier of Dubai Duty Free, and Curator of the International

million year-to-date. Having something so traditional and

third statue is presented for the first time to a retailer – Dubai Duty Free,

presence of very numerous perfumers today who live and work

Perfume Museum of Grasse Olivier Quiquempois. The statuette was

symbolic presented by one of our suppliers is very special and my

with whom we are in partnership for over 17 years and have seen the

on Grasse.”

ubai Duty Free has this week been presented with a

presented in the auditorium of Dubai Duty Free’s head office and will be prominently displayed in the office complex.

Measuring 2.4 metres tall, the original bronze statue of L’habit du Parfumeur stands at the entrance of the International Perfume Museum and was produced by Polish artist Tomek Kawiak. Creation, who supported funding of the original statue, received eight limited edition statuettes measuring 30cm.

The story of L’habit du Parfumeur is said to have begun in the 17th century when Grasse was establishing itself as a perfume town. The original illustration of the perfume maker, who is seen with an elaborate ensemble containing all of the essences and ingredients of the trade, was quickly adapted by those in the fledgling industry. Now the world’s perfume capital, Grasse

Dubai Duty Free Executive Vice Chairman Colm McLoughlin (second from right) proudly receives one of only eight replica statuettes

22 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Dabur targets Salon market; introduces new OxyLife Salon Professional Facial range

S

trengthening its presence in the Professional Skin Care market, Dabur India Ltd today announced the launch of a range of two professional salon facial products under the OxyLife brand — OxyLife Salon Professional ProWhite Pure Oxygen Facial for Women and Men. This also marks the brand’s foray into the Male Professional Grooming market.

These facial kits have been created exclusively for professional use.

“Women coming to parlours for facials have common problems like uneven and patchy skin, clogged pores, dull complexion and lack of

glow which make it appear sapped out of life. These are signs of unhealthy skin whose major cause is lack of Oxygen in the skin! What the skin needs at this time is a high boost of PURE Oxygen which revives skin and current facials in the market do not meet this need.

OxyLife Professional Facial is a revolutionary facial which combines the goodness of nature with science to deliver the benefits of Oxygen through its patented German OxySphere Technology to give your face a high boost of pure oxygen,” Dabur India Ltd Marketing Head-Skin Care & Salon Ms Minoo Phakey said.

24 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Facial is the biggest segment within the Salon Skin Care category and OxyLife is entering this highly lucrative segment with its professional use whitening facials. The 6step OxyLife Salon Professional ProWhite Pure Oxygen Facial for Women is priced at Rs 1,800, while the 5-step OxyLife Men Salon Professional ProWhite Pure Oxygen Facial is priced at Rs 1,500.

“At Dabur, we have always recognized and strived to meet the everevolving needs of our consumers.

Today’s women are exposed to a hectic, stressful and urban lifestyle which takes a toll on their skin. With

OxyLife Salon Professional ProWhite Pure Oxygen Facials, we are tapping into a big opportunity in professional space and our endeavor is to give superior result through differentiated offering. We have a large dedicated team for professional channel and we plan to utilize their expertise for making this facial range available for parlours & salons,” Ms Phakey added. Dabur will also host special sessions for parlour professionals across the country where renowned beauty consultant and cosmetologist Avleen Khokhar trained the parlour professionals on best skin care practices.

Our happy flower collection upcoming spring-/ summer 2015 is becoming bloomy-fresh! Colour combinations mirror the awakening attitude to life which one can feel with the first mild sunrays coming out. Simple, but bold colours of the nature will be discovered new. A cool shade of blue, fresh lemon-yellow, bright orange, soothing peach – nude or gaudy shades of pink and red. Are you keen for sun and fun? Show your colours and spread summer mood! Contact: Tel. +49 (0) 6051-92260, www.akzent-direct-gmbh.com

A new analysis of the contents of lipstick and lip gloss may cause you to pause before puckering. Researchers at the University of California, Berkeley's School of Public Health tested 32 different lipsticks and lip glosses commonly found in drugstores and department stores. They detected lead, cadmium, chromium, aluminum and five other metals, some of which were found at levels that could raise potential health concerns.

Caution! lipstick and lip gloss levels still raised concerns for young children, who sometimes play with makeup, since no level of lead exposure is considered safe for them, the researchers said.

The study authors say that for most adults, there is no reason to toss the lip gloss in the trash, but the amount of metals found do signal the need for more oversight by health regulators. At present, there are no U.S. standards for metal content in cosmetics. The authors note that the European Union considers cadmium, chromium and lead to be unacceptable ingredients -- at any level -- in cosmetic products.

P

rior studies also have found metals in cosmetics, but the UC Berkeley researchers estimated risk by analyzing the concentration of the metals detected and consumers' potential daily intake of the metals, and then comparing this intake with existing health guidelines.

"Just finding these metals isn't the issue; it's the levels that matter," said study principal investigator S. Katharine Hammond, professor of environmental health sciences.

"Some of the toxic metals are occurring at levels that could possibly have an effect in the long term."

Lipstick and lip gloss are of special concern because when they are not being blotted on tissue or left as kiss marks, they are ingested or absorbed, bit by bit, by the individual wearing them, the study authors said. The researchers developed definitions for average and high use of lip makeup based on usage data reported in a previous study. Average use was defined as a daily ingestion of 24 milligrams of lip makeup per day.

26 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Those who slather on the lip color and reapply it repeatedly could fall into the high use category of 87 milligrams ingested per day.

Using acceptable daily intakes derived from this study, average use of some lipsticks and lip glosses would result in excessive exposure to chromium, a carcinogen linked to stomach tumors. High use of these makeup products could result in potential overexposure to aluminum, cadmium and manganese as well.

Over time, exposure to high concentrations of manganese has been linked to toxicity in the nervous system.

Lead was detected in 24 products, but at a concentration that was generally lower than the acceptable daily intake level. However, the lead

"I believe that the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) should pay attention to this," said study lead author Sa Liu, a UC Berkeley researcher in environmental health sciences. "Our study was small, using lip products that had been identified by young Asian women in Oakland, Calif. But, the lipsticks and lip glosses in our study are common brands available in stores everywhere. Based upon our findings, a larger, more thorough survey of lip products -- and cosmetics in general -- is warranted."

Ann Rojas-Cheatham, director of research and training at the Asian Communities for Reproductive Justice in Oakland, Calif., coauthored the study. The National Institutes of Health and the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health Education Research Center helped support this research.

KOSÉ Corporation launches Spawake skincare brand into Indian cosmetics market

J

apanese-based beauty company KOSÉ Corporation is targeting the Indian cosmetics market with the launch of the new Spawake skin care range.

The brand is set to launch into 200 stores over the coming months and is said to target city-based women that are prone to daily environmental stress on their skin. Focussed on sea-sourced ingredients, the range utilizes an extract of Japanese kelp (Laminaria Japonica) and sea salt, common ingredients in marine cosmetics.

affluent consumer. After starting as an e-commerce store, the company is hoping to break through in the skincare market with the Spawake brand. The company is currently in 300 stores in Delhi, and plans to roll out to 200 more in the next few months. In order to cover all bases the company also has an online presence and has recently launched its own e-commerce portal that reaches consumers across India and offers low delivery costs.

In order to promote the new brand the company is focussing on digital media as a way to tap into the Indian youth and beauty segment. Alongside this it is utilizing the normal newspaper, magazine and Metro Branding avenues.

The ingredients are normally applied in premium products, with the company said to be earmarking the skin care line for this market. And with a product price range from between Rs 69 to Rs 399, KOSÉ Corporation is targeting the more 28 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

'Indian cosmetics haven't taken a back seat'

B

e it Maybelline New York's volumising mascara or M.A.C.'s matte lipstick in trendy shades, international brands have a strong fan base in India. Celebrity make-up expert Cherag Bambboat says it makes sense to use products that have new ingredients, but it doesn't mean that Indian cosmetics are off the beauty cabinets.

With cosmetics from international brands like Lancome, M.A.C., NARS and Chanel spread over the backstage dressing table at the ongoing Gionee India Beach Fashion Week 2015 (GIBFW), one could make out that there was no place for Indian beauty products at the fashion event at least. So, have 'made in India' cosmetics taken a back seat?

"No, they have not taken a back seat. But I believe a lot of innovation and research goes into getting the right colours. Sometimes, a lot of things in the Indian market cater to Indian skin.

"At fashion weeks, we have a lot of international models and different colours pamper those skin types.

So, it is important to use a blend of maybe more international products," Bambboat told IANS while working on the face of one of the models for the fashion gala, which will conclude on Saturday at The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort Goa. But off the ramp too, most Indian women like to fill up their beauty cabinets with cosmetics made in the US or any European country.

with newer techniques and products.

"There are new ingredients...there are vitamins infused and stuff like that. So, it makes sense to step out of the usual and experiment with these brands," he said.

Going by the runway looks that had scary Zombie looks, daring lip colours and cool eye make-up, it seems like the brands are actually perfect to create out-of-the box looks.

"Being experimental with looks has a lot to do with designers, models and the theme. But at the same time, we have a lot of creativity going in.

We created the Halloween look yesterday (Friday). We did a lot of variation in that," he said. " "I like to be adaptive to different trends. Even for Wendell Rodric's' show tonight (Saturday), I will use neon colours, pop pink colours...all together on one face with a glowing sun-kissed look. I will use air brush make-up as it makes things easier and faster to"," he added.

With just a few days left for the festival of lights - Diwali, any makeup tips to dole out? " "There is a lot of sparkle in an angelic way and not a crazy way.'It's more like liquid metalised feel on the eyes, lips and skin.'It's sort of out there in your face, but not tac"y," said the expert, who has worked with

"They believe in the theory of everything that the West does is nicer. Everybody apes the West, but eventually it makes sense to get something that is newer because they have gone ahead and worked 30 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Bollywood beauties like Sushmita Sen, Anushka Sharma and Richa Chadha.

Any upcoming Bollywood project?"

"I am in the middle of talks for a Yash Raj F'lms' project. Hopefully, it will be a nice film. I'won't disclose any names. I will probably work with someone famous. That person will be coming across to people in a very different l"ok," he said.

www.tana-cosmetics.de | info@tana-cosmetics.de

'Mommy makeover' combines procedures for postpartum body contouring "lost their waistline," abdominoplasty can provide a firmer, trimmer abdomen. Liposuction is added to address specific problem areas.

Ideally, abdominoplasty is postponed the woman has completed planned childbearing. However, recent studies suggest a "positive outlook" for women with unplanned pregnancies occurring after abdominoplasty.

Breast lift surgery can restore a more youthful appearance of the breasts.

Additional procedures can be performed to address issues in adjacent areas such as the pelvic area, back, hips, flanks, or legs. For plastic surgeons, performing multiple aesthetic procedures in combination entails some challenges and risks. While a number of different factors can affect the risk of complications, Drs. Matarasso and Smith try to minimize risk by keeping the total surgical time under four hours.

M

ore women are expressing interest in plastic surgery to restore a more youthful figure after having children. An update on combined procedures for postpartum body contouring -addressing the abdomen, breasts, and other problem areas -- is presented in the August issue of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery速, the official medical journal of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS).

Sometimes called the "mommy makeover," postpartum body contouring combines a "tummy tuck"(abdominoplasty) with breast lift surgery (mastopexy) and other procedures to address the "multiple body areas affected by pregnancy that may enhance the patient's overall appearance," according to ASPS Member Surgeon Dr Alan Matarasso of Manhattan Ear, Eye, and Throat Hospital and Dr. Darren M.

Smith of University of Pittsburgh Medical Center. They write, "In the appropriate context, multiple procedures can be safely and effectively combined to address the various regions affected by postpartum changes."

Postpartum Body Contouring -Goals, Methods and Outcomes The growing interest in "mommy makeovers" reflects the increase in pregnancies at later ages and increased multiple births, in a generation of women with "a keen interest in nutrition, fitness, and a continued desire to retain a youthful figure," Drs. Matarasso and Smith believe. In a review of 40 consecutive women undergoing abdominoplasty, the researchers found that half of the patients were between 35 and 44 years old.

Women seeking abdominoplasty

34 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

between age 35 and 54 had 50 percent more pregnancies than younger patients. Women seeking postpartum body contouring want to regain a more youthful appearance, improving all areas of the body affected by pregnancy, with the least conspicuous scarring and the least amount of discomfort and recovery time. While the focus is usually on a "firmer, flatter abdomen" and more youthful-looking breasts, women may have concerns about pregnancy- and age-related changes in other areas as well.

Drs. Matarasso and Smith highlight the need for clear communication in understanding and meeting the patient's aesthetic goals.

"The postpartum patient often uses her pre-pregnancy appearance as a barometer for her post-pregnancy goals," they write. For postpartum women concerned that they have

Plastic surgeons also need to address patient concerns regarding "drains, pain, and scars" after abdominoplasty. Experience suggests that most women will accept some abdominal scarring as the necessary tradeoff for achieving the desired improvement in body contour, the researchers note. They also emphasize the importance of evaluating the patient's psychological status -- especially during the emotionally vulnerable first postpartum year.

With the increase in "mommy makeovers," some plastic surgeons are even noticing an increased demand for body contouring by men in the same age group. "The trend in women may be motivating spouses to do their own 'Daddy Do-Overs,'" Dr. Matarasso adds.

"Men typically target the chest and abdomen area, which includes those troublesome 'love handles'"

INV Home brings luxury Portugese brandCastelbel to India

I

nV Home, a luxury lifestyle decor chain, that redefines luxury living for a connoisseur's home brings luxury Portugese brand Castelbel to India. Known for their exquisite fragrances with finest formulations, Castelbel is known worldwide for its fine toiletry soaps and other luxury fragranced products for the home and body. The name Castelbel is derived from the combination of the name of the small town where the company has always been located (“Castêlo da Maia”) and the Portuguese word for beauty (“beleza”).

Soothe your senses with the Butterflies fragrance, bursting with color and fresh citrus scents, from Portus Cale collection. This aqua and lime range with its flirtatious butterflies is a perfect way to refresh any room. It consists of diffuser, fragranced candle, soap, room spray, Hand and Body wash, Body lotion, and Hand cream to rejuvenate your mind and body. Top notes of tangerine, mandarin, lemon, grapefruit and orange lay on a heart of honeysuckle, magnolia and coriander.

Diffuser Rs.4795 Portus Cale Butterfly Blues Room Fragrance Rs.2395 Available at INV Home Stores across the country: New Delhi Plot No. 348, Sultanpur, M.G Road New Delhi- 110030 Ph: 01126801812/13 Shop No. N-1 Greater Kailash 1 Market, New Delhi – 110048 Ph: 011-29233122 Mumbai P11, InV Home, Raghuvanshi Mill compound, Next to Gauri Khan design cell, Lower Parel west, Mumbai-400013 Ph: 022-40020402/06 Hyderabad House No. 8-2-696/697 Road No. 12, Banjara Hills Hyderabad, 500034 Ph: 040-66757677 Chandigarh Store No. 230, 2nd Floor, Elante Mall, Chandigarh. Ph: 0172-4028114 About InV Home

Inspired by the latest trends in color, fragrance and fashion design, Portus Cale collection is an eclectic range of the finest soaps, body and home fragranced products, handcrafted near the beautiful valleys of northern Portugal that captures the spirit of Porto.

Prices: Portus Cale Butterfly Body Lotion Rs.2095 Portus Cale Butterfly Hand & Body Wash Rs.1775 Portus Cale Butterfly Hand Cream Rs.1495 Portus Cale Butterfly Soap Rs.955 Portus Cale Butterfly Soap Set 3 x 150g Rs.2795 Portus Cale Butterfly Fragrance Candle Rs.3095 Portus Cale Butterfly Fragrance

Started by Mr. Nitin Jain & Ms. Ritika Jain, visionary entrepreneurs in the field of home textiles, InV Home redefines luxury living by combining time honored artisan techniques with precise state-of-the-art detailing. With a rich experience, of over 12 years, working with luxury brands across USA and European market, they now present luxury living solutions.

InV Home opened its first store in New Delhi in the posh market of Greater Kailash 1, second store on MG Road, over an expansive area of 18000 sqft and now has a third store in Elante Mall, Chandigarh.

The store houses a timeless collection of home textiles, furniture,

36 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

lighting, dining and accessories. The whole idea on which InV Home was built was to bring unique and rare pieces made worldwide to the modern urban retail Indian market. High quality material, styled with understated elegance, lends a unique richness to their relaxed home furnishings. In addition to home textiles, the store has collaborated with some of the most premium brands from all over the globe. The brands like Versace & Rosenthal, Zwiesel, Archipelago, Platex, etc to name a few.

With alluring designs tailored for today’s modern lifestyle, be it entertainment, dinning, conversing, working, playing, rejuvenating, relaxing, or sleeping – you’re invited to get on-board and express yourself.

Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 37

Why we really use lipstick, mascara, and foundation.

G

oing out tonight? For many women, this means time in front of the mirror with an array of cosmetics. Minutes, sometimes an hour or more, and even the occasional professional consultation may be a part of the process of enhancing attractiveness.

Within our bag of tricks, we typically find similar products—foundation, eye shadow and liner, blush, lipstick, etc.

homogeneity and facial similarity, both signs of good health, have wide appeal. To a lesser extent, other features associated with sexual arousal (plump lips, for example) may be perceived as beautiful, because they have reliably fostered reproduction.

But where did this particular assortment come from? Is there a psychological basis for the makeup we use today? And if so, can we use this to our advantage? Rather than asking "should women wear makeup?" while acknowledging that many women do, might we instead try to figure out why we wear the makeup we do wear?

Lipstick? Wear red. Women with red lips are in fact perceived as more attractive. A recent field experiment showed that red lipstick influenced how quickly men approached women at a bar. In the study, women in red lipstick were approached sooner than those who wore no lipstick, brown lipstick, or (marginally) pink lipstick.

We talk of cosmetics as products designed to enhance physical beauty, but what is "beautiful"?

Cross-cultural research has demonstrated world-wide variations in what is physically appealing. Such relativity roots beauty in socialization, not evolution.

Foundation appears foundational.

Perhaps because it evens skin tone, and therefore may give a stronger impression of health and symmetry, foundation is widely recognized as enhancing beauty. In fact, in one study, foundation was concluded to be the product making the most difference in female attractiveness after a group of men judged the attractiveness of women wearing different levels of cosmetic use, from none at all to complete makeup.

Thinness, for example, is not a universal feature of attractiveness.

This was aptly noted by People magazine’s onetime "Most Beautiful Woman" Gwyneth Paltrow, who said, “If we were living in ancient Rome or Greece, I would be considered sickly and unattractive.”

Despite cultural variation, a few physical characteristics are generally considered universal markers of beauty. Human preferences may have evolved over millions of years to favor certain physical characteristics linked to reproductive fitness— youthfulness, for example, is a generally reliable cue for fertility, potentially explaining why it’s considered attractive. Likewise, skin

Are today’s cosmetics consistent with these ideas? Here’s what we know:

Focus on the eyes. In recent research, women rated eye makeup as the Number One product enhancing other women’s facial attractiveness. Eyeliner, eye shadow, and mascara may exaggerate facial neoteny. In other words, adults are often viewed as beautiful when they have features typical of the young, including large eyes (as well as small noses and large lips). Such exaggerated youthfulness tends to have greater appeal. A bit of blush.

Why does rouge tend to be a staple

38 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

cosmetic? Perhaps it’s because when women are most sexually viable (during mid-cycle during ovulation) or when they are aroused, they blush more easily. The application of artificial blush may mimic this vascularization, providing a subtle signal of sexual interest or arousal. This is in line with the link established by Elliott and Niesta between the color red and sex appeal.

Makeup simply makes you look healthier. Beyond any attractiveness measures, cosmetics may help women create certain favorable social perceptions. Indeed, a recent experiment revealed that women pictured wearing cosmetics were evaluated as healthier, more confident, and even having greater earning potential than the same women wearing no makeup. This suggests that makeup has a potentially useful role in strategic self-presentation.

As for the longstanding question of why most men don’t typically wear similar makeup, evolutionary psychologists might point out that men have different demands when it comes to reproduction. Instead of exaggerating youth and health to showcase their fertility, men, unburdened by a shorter fertile window, might focus instead on displaying wealth or resources, potentially valuable assets for women choosing partners.

In the end, makeup can make a difference in perceived physical attractiveness, but that only takes one so far: Despite the advantage that physical beauty may have for short-term relationships, people seeking long-term connection do prioritize “inner beauty” over exterior appearance—emphasizing, for example, kindness, intelligence, and a good sense of humor.

New Year.New You! 5 Research-Backed Reasons We Wear Makeup Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 39

COSMETIC FORMULATORS SEARCH FOR MULTIFUNCTIONAL NATURAL WHITENING INGREDIENTS TO BOOST PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

A

s whitening products continue to gain momen tum, product developers are seeking natural whitening ingredients that are multifunctional and not only have clinically-proven results but can reduce the total raw materials in the final formulation, in turn reducing costs.

According to Frost & Sullivan, the global whitening ingredients market earned revenues of $381.0 million in 2014, a figure which is set to grow to $827.9 million in 2021. However, with Western Europe and North America banning hydroquinone and its derivatives, formulators are now seeking natural ingredients that will grow the market further by helping competitive pricing.

Dr. Nandhini Rajagopal, Materials & Food Team Leader, Frost & Sullivan Chemicals, said, “Consumer keenness to have a uniform skin tone is driving cosmetic formulators to develop whitening products for the neckline, arms and feet, in addition to the face. Whether it is used to formulate anti-ageing solutions for the West or create a lighter, blemish-free skin tone in Asian regions, whitening ingredients are increasingly finding the spotlight."

While China, India, Brazil and the Middle East are helping drive growth in the market thanks to better economic conditions and higher earning potential, consumers in Asia

Pacific are finding it hard to choose products due to low awareness on the harmful effects of most synthetic whitening ingredients. However, they are also finding it difficult to justify the price difference between the natural-based ingredients.

Therefore in order to boost the market in this region, competitive pricing in the natural ingredients market has to come into play. And with a lack of regulation prompting competition in the region, whitening ingredient manufacturers will no doubt be forced to consider the natural route in order to enjoy sustained growth.

However, it is said that whitening ingredient manufacturers will have to back up their marketing claims with clinically proved results if they are to capture the attention of cosmetic formulators. R&D therefore is said to be needed for each region globally, focussing on upcoming trends in a bid to meet end-product manufacturers' demands for new ingredients with cutting-edge properties.

Rajagopal said, “Close strategic partnerships with personal care product manufacturers will help whitening ingredient suppliers stay at the forefront of innovation. Through these partnerships, ingredient suppliers will also get a chance to offer their market knowledge and regulatory advice to customers."

40| January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

42 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

MAC to release singer Mariah Carey’s ‘All I want’ lipstick MAC Cosmetics has announced the first product 'All I Want' lipstick from the singer Mariah Carey's new makeup line.

The shimmery lipstick with a nude base tone is inspired from her hit holiday song "All I Want for Christmas Is You." Carey quoted PopSugar.com by saying: "I've been a huge fan of MAC Cosmetics for forever, and it's been my go-to make up for stage and offstage."

She added that the full MAC Beauty Icon collection will hit market in 2016.

MAC senior vice president James Gager quoted hollywoodlife.com as saying: "Mariah is the over the top pop and beauty icon.

"Throughout the years we've all watched her with admiration and feel right now she is at her ultimate best. She exudes elegance, glamour, sophistication or sense of fun.

"Her 'All I Want' lipstick is the perfect frosty holiday shade and her Beauty Icon collection will be everything you think of when you think MAC and Mariah."

MAC has also launched beauty line collections with other celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Miley Cyrus.

Further, it plans to work on a line to pay tribute to Late Latin pop star Selena Quintanilla.

Previously, Carey has been signed by Elizabeth Arden that resulted in collections such as M by Mariah Carey, Luscious Pink, Forever Scents and Lollipop Bling trio of women fragrances.

She has also worked for OPI's limited edition nail colors in the past.

Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 43

L'Oréal continues digital onslaught with new hair color app in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa. The app follows news reported by Global Cosmetics News last week that L’Oréal has eyed a potential gap in the market and has created a series of online make-up tutorials aimed at helping the older consumer.

It’s no secret that online make-up tutorials are taking the beauty world by storm, which have mainly been aimed at younger girls hoping to get the hottest tips from the likes of Kylie Jenner and the Kardashian clan.

However, with older women also wanting to make the most of their beauty, L’Oréal has now launched a series of YouTube videos called Wow-To, with the ‘Wow’ standing for Wiser Older Woman.

There are step-by-step tutorials presented by Tessa Broadhead, 46, and Carol Anne Swan, 56, while celebrity make-up artist Ruby Hammer also shares her top tips on where to shop for make-up and how to wear products that will suit the older woman.

B

eauty giant L'Oréal has been making waves in the digital world of late, and its new app Matrix Color Lounge – launched in partnership with ModiFace – allows users of the Matrix hair color brand to digitally try before they buy.

The Matrix Color Lounge apps requests you to take a photo of yourself, choose a product, and see the end results of that choice. There are over 100 dyes to choose from and with ModiFace being so accomplished in similar apps, its powerful algorithms take into account the skin tone, or 44 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

natural hair color. This is different to other companies that use a stock photo placed over your own hair.

The app is available to normal consumers, however, it is more targeted for use in hair salons where professionals can help customers visualize how their desired style and color will look before taking the next step. Matrix Color Lounge is available

The company has also finalized a partnership agreement with New York-based digital training specialist, General Assembly. The partnership will build an online learning platform for employees at L'Oréal and is designed to educate marketing teams on the latest trends, tactics and new technologies in digital marketing. Called The Essentials of Digital Marketing, all professionals at the company will have access to more than 70 interactive e-learning modules to expand their skillsets.

MODULAR LUXURY SKINCARE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES Made in Switzerland Exclusive ingredients from the swiss alps Globally unique modular system Scientific Cosmeceutical

Discover a whole new skin sensation www.lasaea.com

Distributors wanteD

Beauty Tr ading AG | Bernstr asse West 64 CH-5034 Suhr | Switzerland | Tel. +41 62 855 29 19

www.lasaea.com | info@dobi.com

TITAN-EDITION Intelligenz in Metall

INTELLIGENCE IN METAL

UVP ab 29,95 €

ERBE® TITAN-EDITION

ERBE® TITANIUM EDITION

Die hochfeste, feinkörnige Titan-Nitrit-Beschichtung der ergonomisch geformten, rostfreien Edelstahl-Schere sorgt nicht nur für einen ansprechenden optischen Effekt, sondern auch für eine sehr hohe Verschleißfestigkeit! Die Oberfläche der beschichteten Scherenhälfte ist etwa doppelt so hart wie die der nicht beschichteten. Dadurch ist die beschichtete Hälfte deutlich widerstandsfähiger und richtet bei jeder Schneidbewegung den Schneidgrad der weicheren Hälfte wieder auf.

The high-strength titanium nitrite coating of the ergonomically shaped stainless steel scissors isn’t just an optical highlight but also means outstanding resistance to wear. The coated surface is nearly as double as hard as the uncoated surface, clearly making it more resistant. When cutting the uncoated cutting edge is righted.

Edle Optik mit Selbstschärfe-Effekt

Während die gleiche Schere ohne Beschichtung nach ca. 50.000 Schnitten absolut verschlissen ist, schneidet die speziell beschichtete Schere auch nach weit über 100.000 Schnitten immer noch ohne den geringsten Qualitätsverlust.

ECHTE SOLINGER PROFI-QUALITÄT. Geschmacksmusterschutz Nr. 40 2012 005297.3

Classy appearance with self-sharpening effect

Whilst uncoated scissors would be totally worn out after approx. 50,000 cutting operations, these scissors can still be used after more than 100,000 cutting operations without any loss of quality.

PREMIUM QUALITY MADE IN SOLINGEN Design Registration No. 40 2012 005297.3

www.becker-manicure.de

How to Deal With Excess Hair Growth 50 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

H

irsutism is the medical term for excess hair growth, typically in places where hair can cause cosmetic problems.

The good news is that there are temporary and permanent methods of hair removal.

Most women have only very fine hair on areas of the skin where men tend to grow thick, dark body hair, such as the upper lip, cheeks, chin, back, chest, and abdomen. But about 8 percent of women have a condition called hirsutism, which causes excess hair growth in those areas.

Also called hypertrichosis, having excess hair is at best annoying and at worst embarrassing. Hair removal and bleaching are common treatment options, but there are some medications that can help as well as more permanent methods.

Symptoms and Causes of Excess Hair Growth Symptoms besides the excess hair growth can help determine if there’s a medical cause for the hirsutism.

You may also have: Abnormal menstrual periods or having no period A deep voice Acne Increased muscle mass Decreased breast size About half of all women with hirsutism have elevated levels of male sex hormones, which are known as androgens. Such increases in women's androgen levels may be due to: Polycystic ovary syndrome, in which a hormone imbalance causes cysts

to form on the ovaries.

Cushing's syndrome, which occurs when your body overproduces the hormone cortisol for an extended period.

Congenital adrenal hyperplasia, a group of disorders that interfere with the adrenal gland and cause the body to produce more androgen.

Tumors growing in the ovaries and adrenal glands Medications such as steroids, some hormones, and a drug used to treat endometriosis called Danocrine (danazol) Excess hair growth also can occur if a woman's hair follicles are unusually sensitive to male hormones, although doctors have not figured out why. In many cases, the exact cause of a woman's excess hair growth is never figured out.

method, but you will have stubble if you don't shave regularly. Also, the hair may tend to look thicker as it regrows.

Electrolysis tends to be expensive and takes a lot of time because only a limited amount can be done in one session.

Waxing or plucking. You can use tweezers to pluck individual hairs or try waxing to remove larger patches.

These are safe and inexpensive methods, but they can be painful and there might be some skin irritation.

Laser hair removal. A laser beam is used to damage the hair follicle, causing the hair to fall out. Like electrolysis, this is a time-consuming and expensive procedure. Unlike electrolysis, the hair might end up growing back.

Depilatories. Chemical creams can remove hair from the body, but they may irritate the skin. Always test any new depilatory on your wrist one day before you intend to use it to make sure you don't have an adverse reaction.

Electrolysis and laser hair removal should only be performed by licensed professionals, such as a cosmetologist, aesthetician, or electrologist. Rather than remove it, some women choose to bleach excess hair with a cream or paste.

Bleaching ingredients can cause skin irritation and, depending on how thick the hair is, might not give you results that are as satisfying as actually getting rid of the hair.

Electrolysis. This method burns away hair permanently using a small electrical current delivered into the hair follicle through a needle.

Are You at Risk for Excess Hair Growth?

There are certain risk factors for hirsutism, including: Genetics — the condition tends to run in some families Race or ethnicity — certain ethnic groups have an increased risk of hirsutism, such as women of Middle Eastern, South Asian, and Mediterranean descent Menopause Treatments for Excess Hair Growth Most treatments for excess hair growth involve short- or long-term hair removal methods: Shaving. This is a safe and easy

Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 51

Y

ou don't have to pay spa prices to get beautiful eyebrows. Helga Surratt, President of About Faces Day Spa & Salon, in Baltimore, MD, and Pam Messy, of Mary Kay Cosmet ics, offer eyebrow shaping tips to help you look your best. Before you get started with hair removal, consider what you want your eyebrows to look like and what shape best suits your face, says Surratt. She offers this advice regarding eyebrow shaping.

For small eyes: Make your brows a little thicker by building them up just a bit on the top.

For deep-set eyes: Enlarge the space between the eyes and brows.

For close-set eyes: Widen the space between the brows a little by plucking, and extend the ends of the brows with an eyebrow pencil.

For wide-set eyes: Do not extend the eyebrows out at the ends; instead, pencil them in a little closer to the nose.

Eyebrow Shaping Tips Brush your eyebrows up and snip the longest hairs beyond the natural arch using sharp, tiny nail scissors, taking care not to take off too much at the outer corners. Brush brows down and trim what is below the brow line in the same way.

When tweezing, to lessen discomfort from plucking, wipe the brow area with a cotton ball soaked in an astringent. The cooling effect numbs the skin for some time. However, Surratt advises against using ice to numb the skin. "Cold tightens the pores and holds the hair follicle firmly, which makes tweezing more difficult," she says. Instead, she recommends using a warm washcloth on your brows or shaping them following a hot shower. Take a lipstick liner pencil and position it vertically in line with the side of your nose. This point is where your eyebrow should begin. You can use the lipstick pencil to mark the spot lightly, to use as a guide. Tweeze hair that falls beyond this point, between the eyes. Find the end of your eyebrow by using the same pencil and holding it diagonally across the opposite corners of your eye, nose, and mouth. Tweeze any hair beyond this point.

To determine where your arch should be located, hold the pencil diagonally so that it crosses the outer part of your iris and the middle of your nostril and mouth. Moderately tweeze from this point back toward where your brow should start.. Make sure your eyebrow is even by holding the pencil horizontally from where the brow starts and ends. It should be a level line.

"To get a natural look, brush your brows with a brush dipped in brow powder in upward and outward strokes," suggests Messy. Eye shadow or eyebrow powder gives more natural look to your brows than an eyebrow pencil, she says. If you want to add volume to your brows, use a stiff, slanted brush to apply a matching eye shadow in short, gentle strokes. If you over tweeze a certain brow area, fill it in using an eyebrow pencil by lightly applying in the direction of the hair growth.

Do's and Don'ts of Eyebrow Shaping Do invest in a pair of quality tweezers. Those that are slanted, stainless steel, and have a good grip work best, according to Messy. They cost about $20, and are worth the small investment, she says, because they will pull hairs out completely and grab shorter hairs more effectively.

Do tweeze the top of your brows. Surratt says that cleaning up the stray hairs above the eyebrow will create a more defined and even look.

Don't stand too close to the mirror. You can see your eyebrows better from some distance from the mirror.

Don't pluck your eyebrows without holding the skin taut. Gently pull your skin with your free hand while tweezing to lessen any pain.

Don't dig tweezers into skin. If the hair is too short for twee zing, do not put the tweezers into the skin, which may result in scraping, bleeding, infection, or even scarring.

52 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Get Your Glow!

Learn how to groom your eyebrows like a professional.

Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2016 | 53

Plastic surgeons urged to 'embrace the change' to single-stage implant breast reconstruction

S

ome women with breast cancer can now undergo a "one and done" approach combining nipple-sparing mastectomy with immediate single-stage implant (SSI) breast reconstruction in a single procedure, according to a report in the July issue of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery速, the official medical journal of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS).

NAC for immediate implant-based breast reconstruction. Dr. Codner's technique includes the use of "teardrop"-shaped breast implants and a biomaterial called acellular dermal matrix, which provides a "scaffold" to support the reconstructed breast and promote new tissue growth. In some cases, fat grafting is performed to enhance the cosmetic results.

that many patients would experience in the past with a two-stage breast reconstruction."

In the article, ASPS Member Surgeon Dr. Mark A. Codner of Emory University, Atlanta, shares his approach to single-stage implant (SSI) breast reconstruction after mastectomy for breast cancer.

Coauthor Dr. Jose Rodriguez-Feliz comments, "A selected group of patients will now benefit from a simplified reconstructive process with limited office visits for expansions, accelerated return to normal activities, and restoration of a natural breast with preservation of its most important landmark, the nipple areola complex."

This combined procedure means that the cancer is removed and the breast reconstructed in a single surgery. The authors believe that this offers important psychological benefits for the patient, including an "immediate return to normal body image."

While the combined procedure is safe, some women in the experience did experience complications.

These included infections requiring intravenous antibiotics and, in some cases, further surgery.

"Preservation of the NAC and advances in technique have allowed us to achieve aesthetic results that resemble those of cosmetic breast enhancement patients," says Dr. Rodriguez-Feliz. "As a result, we have limited the sense of mutilation

'One and Done' Procedure for Breast Cancer Surgery and Reconstruction The paper analyzes Dr. Codner's experience with 27 SSI reconstructions, with the aim of demonstrating the value of this new approach to immediate reconstruction after breast cancer surgery.

Most of the patients underwent a procedure called nipple-sparing mastectomy. In this technique, the breast cancer surgeon removes the cancerous breast tissue while preserving most of the breast skin as well as the nipple-areola complex (NAC)--the nipple and surrounding tissue.

The plastic surgeon then uses the woman's natural breast skin and 54 | January-February 2016 | Beauty & Fashion World

Single-stage implant reconstruction also avoids the stress, discomfort, and inconvenience associated with delayed breast reconstruction-which often includes several weeks of tissue expansion to create new skin for use in reconstruction.

The researchers emphasize that nipple-sparing mastectomy and SSI reconstruction are not appropriate for every woman with breast cancer.

Patients must be selected carefully for depending on their overall health, cancer characteristics, and previous treatment. The authors also note that their study is limited by the

small number of patients and shortterm follow-up.

"Recent advances in oncologic breast surgery have allowed nipplesparing mastectomy to be accepted as a safe and a viable option for many patients with early-diagnosed breast cancer," says Dr. RodriguezFeliz. "As plastic surgeons, our surgical techniques have also evolved in a way that we can now simplify the reconstructive process with a 'one-and-done' procedure."

Drs. Codner and Rodriguez-Feliz encourage other plastic surgeons to "embrace the change" to nipplesparing mastectomy and SSI in appropriate cases.

They conclude, "We hope that by sharing [Dr. Codner's] experience and the most recent literature to support it, we can inspire other plastic surgeons to evolve into what we think will be the future of breast reconstruction."