THE ICONS

ven casual observers of watch collecting couldn’t help but have noticed the popularity and influence of vintage timepieces in the past decade. Paul Newman’s

Rolex Daytona famously sold at auction for over 17 million dollars. Financial advisors are recommending watches as material investment strategies. Even among the biggest brands like Tudor, Omega, and Panerai, heritage inspired designs find their way into the latest novelties. Nostalgia is popular right now, for a number of reasons, and there’s nothing more nostalgic than a vintage watch on your wrist.

SUSTAINABLE MEMORIES

The mechanical wristwatch is a model of sustainability and of lasting value in a world of ever increasing disposability. Maintained and treated well, it can be worn daily almost in perpetuity, passed down through generations. What other manmade object has such lasting appeal, charm and yes, utility? Cars rust away and are discarded. Clothing falls victim to the moth, the ravages of time, and shifting fashions. But a wristwatch, first worn by a soldier, a pilot, a scientist, or an actor decades ago, will still tell you the time, ticking on your wrist daily. This durability and, shall we say, timelessness are part of the appeal of owning a vintage watch.

Strap on a Rolex Submariner from the 1960s, an Omega chronograph from the early ’70s or even a classic Cartier from the ’40s and the timepiece ties you to a lineage of those who wore it before, even if you have no idea who its previous owners were. The imagination runs wild. Where was it first acquired? A dive shop in Long Beach perhaps, or a Navy PX in the Philippines, maybe a jeweler in Zurich for a special occasion. Even when the origins or provenance are not known, the speculation is endlessly intriguing. Sometimes a caseback is cryptically engraved with a date, maybe some initials, a dedication, or a declaration of love. A prominent dent is a mystery never to be solved, yet leads to countless theories.

A watch is a tangible collector of memories. The mere fact that it is powered by its wearer, either through hand winding or the movement of the arm, and marches out the passage of time, is more than metaphor. Every scratch on the case is a scar, a reminder of a hike, a dive to a shipwreck, the birth of a child, a new house, the achievement of a job or a college degree. When we acquire a vintage timepiece and continue to wear it, we make it our own, adding to that collection of memories and move it forward in time, until we pass it on to someone else.

CAVEAT EMPTOR

If you’re not lucky enough to acquire a vintage watch through family inheritance or finding it buried in the sand on a beach, odds are you’re going to be buying it. And that can be a daunting proposition, a confusing minefield of botched restorations, questionable provenance, fake components, and mechanical can of worms. With a new watch, you more than likely purchase it through an authorized dealer, with the built-in assurances of authenticity and reliability. But wading into the realm of vintage timepieces, things are less clear. The rising value of vintage watches in recent years has brought forth the predictable crop of less than scrupulous sellers with watches often composed of a mish-mash of cobbled parts—so called “Frankenwatches”— inexpert restorations and servicing, and inflated prices. The best advice to anyone seeking to buy vintage is, “buy the seller before you buy the watch.”

Two watch words for those looking to get into vintage are, “originality” and “condition.” Seasoned collectors will tell you that a scratched up and faded watch that hasn’t had new hands and dial fitted, or the case polished smooth, will be more desirable and valuable in the long term, over one that has been excessively restored. This may seem contrary to our modern sensibilities that tell us to make old things new again. But it also doesn’t mean the watch is neglected. It’s borderline criminal to leave a mechanical watch’s movement unserviced, its oils dried up and its seals disintegrated. It is a fine balance.

Characteristics COLLECTIBLE

PATINA

Referred to as patina, this wear demonstrates that the watch has led an interesting life and has not been overly restored– originality is a feature that collectors prefer. Plus, patina creates a unique beauty that simply cannot be replicated.

SPIDER DIAL

A spider dial is a special type of aging that occurred on the early glossy dials which led some dials to experience a cracking or crazing effect. This was typically corrected by Rolex at subsequent servicing so it is not something we see very often!

TROPICAL DIAL

Sporting an evenly faded dark chocolate tone, this unusual byproduct of age is the byproduct of intense exposure to UV light. A Tropical dial is highly coveted by collectors due to the rarity, uniqueness, and aesthetics of the uniform color change.

BUY THE SELLER

Wixon Jewelers has many years of experience with vintage watches. Founder Dan Wixon himself is a longtime passionate collector, and the store’s service department has seasoned watchmakers who’ve been entrusted by loyal customers to keep their heirlooms running. Servicing vintage watches is not as straightforward as with modern timepieces. Some owners prefer to keep dials and hands untouched, preserving their hard won patina. Others feel the same with the case itself, asking that the metal not be polished, favoring the scratches and dents that come with decades of regular wear. Sourcing original replacement parts can be challenging, and in some situations, it can be necessary to craft movement components for obsolete watch references, an art in itself. And while we never recommend taking vintage dive watches underwater, some of our customers (this author included) have requested an old Submariner be brought up to original spec so it can carry on its intended purpose.

Wixon sources its inventory from various places, but often from trades or purchases from existing clientele. In every case, all watches for sale in the vintage showcase have been scrutinized for authenticity, originality and then examined and serviced for impeccable functionality. As a long time Rolex and Patek Philippe retailer, Wixon favors those brands for vintage sales, but also carries historic Heuers, Omegas, and other important marques, all receiving the same meticulous care and attention.

AN INVESTMENT YOU CAN WEAR

As vintage watch values continue to climb, a timepiece from a reputable Swiss brand can be a legitimate addition to an investment portfolio. Of course, as with any investment, there’s no predicting the future, but particularly watches from Patek and Rolex have seen steady gains in the recent past, to the point where they can almost be called a “sure bet.” But the beauty of this kind of investment is, a watch is one that can be worn and enjoyed, whether for special occasions or even as a daily companion. And by doing so, you add to its history and its provenance, while it times the important moments of your life, and those to whom you pass it on. It is, quite literally, a time machine.

Jason Heaton has a decade-long history of adventure, travel and wristwatch writing, and his work has appeared in Gear Patrol, Men’s Journal, Wired, Revolution, and Hodinkee. The New York Times once called him, “a test pilot for the world’s most illustrious undersea timepieces.” He is also a published novelist and the co-host of the popular podcast, The Grey NATO. Since 2015, he has been a member of the prestigious Explorers Club. He lives with his wife, Gishani, and their cat in Minneapolis.

SUSTAINABLE

WATCHMAKING

ceans cover over 70% of our planet; and although they are immense and powerful, our oceans are also vulnerable to a multitude of environmental threats. Of the 300 million tons of plastic produced annually, it’s estimated that 8-10 million tons of plastic are dumped into the ocean every year. At a time when the environmental impact of plastic has become impossible to ignore, Panerai is making a strong push towards a more environmentally-friendly future. The brand with Italian origins has deep historical links to a marine environment that is seriously affected today, particularly by the damage caused by plastic. Ecological awareness, which has already transformed the way everyday products are presented, perceived and consumed, is now increasingly impacting the world of luxury. develop ocean literacy activities for the UN’s Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development. The partnership will develop programs and actions with the final objective of developing transformative solutions to the existing and future challenges that face the ocean. The goal is to embrace a more responsible mindset and behavior towards the ocean and its preservation by developing educational and research initiatives that provide values and knowledge while enhancing an active community. The partnership will develop a program of work around ocean literacy to ensure that citizens, stakeholders and institutions understand their interaction with the ocean and apply this knowledge to develop transformative solutions toward building a more sustainable society. Existing at the nexus of two of Panerai’s prime fields of expertise—continued innovation and respect for the marine world—this partnership reflects a devotion to conservation and a commitment to a sustainable environment with healthy oceans. With the introduction of eSteel, Panerai is poised to lead a movement toward more environmentally responsible watch manufacturing. In its efforts to develop solutions to the ocean plastic crisis, Panerai is intent on spreading knowledge and awareness of the current plight of our oceans. In combination with its other sustainability efforts, and a desire to spread its practices across the industry, Panerai is leading the way on ocean and climate conservation in watchmaking. While they can’t alone remove millions of tons of plastic that leach into our oceans each year, they are making great strides to affect change and protect the ocean through dedication and innovation.

O

SUSTAINABLE STEEL

A pioneer of advancements in contemporary watchmaking for generations, Panerai has consistently created timepieces incorporating materials and technologies with transformative and far-reaching impact. With their aquatic heritage, Panerai is always experimenting with new materials and ways to promote ocean conservation. The development of eSteel is one of the most remarkable technical achievements in the brand’s history. Composed of recycled-based materials, eSteel is an advancement that represents a step in Panerai’s commitment to reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its high environmental impact.

The case and dial of Luminor Marina eSteel feature a new recycled steel alloy with a total of 89g (or 58.4%) of the watch’s components made of recycled-based materials. It required close coordination with suppliers to ensure the material matched the physical properties of the other virgin materials. Although it’s composed of recycled material, eSteel has the same chemical behavior, physical structure and corrosion resistance as a non-recycled alloy. The greatest icons evolve over time, and the Luminor is no exception. Even with new materials, these models retain their unique aesthetic.

SAFEGUARDING OUR SEAS

In their quest to expand sustainability, Panerai has partnered with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO to

Recycled PET is a light, strong and resistant material designed to minimize the environmental impact of plastic bottles. Panerai’s recycled straps and stitching are made from plastic waste collected before it could pollute our oceans.

FROM SODA TO STRAPS

SUPERLATIVE SUPERLATIVE MASTERFUL The enduring excellence of Rolex The enduring excellence of Rolex

JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S NEW MASTER CONTROL COLLECTION

Rolex. Is there another brand more recognizable, respected, and evocative than that simple, five-letter name? This Swiss marque, founded in London by a German in 1908, has grown into a symbol of quality, luxury, and precision the world over. But what makes Rolex so special? In an age of smartphones and connected watches, is it still relevant or a relic of a bygone era? Is it all hype? Let’s unwrap the legend that is Rolex and see what makes these watches so iconic and sought after.

MASTER CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH CALENDAR MASTER CONTROL DATE MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC MASTER CONTROL CALENDAR

For the last 30 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has been defined by technical rigor and stylistic restraint. Its constant evolution has been imbued with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s deep respect for tradition and constant quest for innovation. They recently relaunched the entire collection, drawing inspiration from the classic round watches of the 1950s while adding a dash of 21st-century flair. Rather than paying homage to a single historic reference, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a range of timepieces featuring some of the brand’s most emblematic complications. The new Master Control collection features a host of complications including the classic date, the triple calendar, the legendary Geographic, and for the first time, a chronograph with a triple calendar display and moonphase.

TIMELESS DESIGN WITH A CONTEMPORARY TWIST Reflecting a modern interpretation of its classic design, every element of the Master Control collection has been restyled. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have harnessed and modernized the design to create a refined yet entirely contemporary aesthetic. With its 40mm diameter, outwardly sloping bezel and dynamically curved lugs, the new Master Control case exudes a relaxed and understated elegance. The satin-brushed sides of the case are complemented by a polished bezel, crowns and lugs to complete its stunning case design.

On the dials, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers reinterpreted the classical codes into a streamlined and modern style while highlighting the complications of each model. The applied indexes add refinement—their elongated triangular shape is echoed by the Dauphine hands. Uniting the collection, a sunray-brushed finish animates the silvery-white dial, while a blue central seconds hand adds a subtle pop of color. With its refined appearance and clean design, the new collection remains timeless yet absolutely contemporary.

NEW MATERIALS & MOVEMENTS The versatility of the new collection is underlined by the choice of two case materials– stainless steel and a new pink gold alloy called Le Grand Rose Gold. Seen for the first time in this new collection, Le Grand Rose Gold has a remarkable sheen and depth of color. The addition of palladium to the metal’s proprietary formula guards against oxidation and ensures that the radiant color will not fade over the years. The straps have also been re-worked for the new collection. To complement the timeless informality of the steel cases, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have chosen the soft, matte finish of Novonappa calf leather in tan. Produced by the finest tannery in France, through a vegetable-based tanning process that retains the natural variations of the hides, Novonappa develops a distinctive patina over time. Classic alligator leather in black or chocolate brown lends a more formal allure to the Le Grand Rose Gold cases, which can also be fitted with a Novonappa strap. Thanks to a Presto Spring lug attachment and a simple clip for removing and refitting the deployant buckle, the straps can be quickly changed without the need for any tool.

1,000 HOURS CONTROL When launched in 1992, the Master Control line was the first of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collections to benefit from its pioneering “1,000 Hours Control” certification, which inspired the collection’s name. A demanding process that tests the entire cased-up watch (not just its movement), the certification has continually evolved in response to technological advances to remain one of the watch industry’s most stringent testing protocols.

With its heritage and long history of technical innovation, the relaunch of the Master Control collection is not simply an aesthetic update. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have comprehensively revised and re-engineered Calibre 899, the high-performing movement in the Master Control collection, with the goal of improving reliability, power reserve and long-term performance. The improvements, which have been incorporated into the entire range of Master Control movements, include a silicon escapement, a redesigned barrel and various energy-saving enhancements. Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, the Master Control watches carry an eight-year warranty in addition to the 1,000 Hours Control certification.

Inspired by the past and redesigned in the confident spirit of the 21st century, the new Master Control collection combines the creativity and technical prowess of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Blending timeless style with the relaxed elegance of modern urban living, this collection is destined to become a point of reference in contemporary watchmaking.

With their calm candor, warm spirit and desire to please, dogs have a special way of bringing immense joy to our lives. The joyful exuberance of our four-legged friends seem to always cheer us up, but can a dog save a life? At Believet Canine Service Providers, they have found that service dogs provide immense comfort and support to Veterans suffering with PTSD. Since 2015, Sam Daly and the team at Believet have been training service dogs for military service members suffering with combat-related injuries and disabilities. More than simply a pet, these animals provide crucial services to Veterans to help them seamlessly re-adjust to the normal world at home.

NOT ALL WOUNDS ARE VISIBLE

After serving in the most emotionally and physically extreme environments imaginable, these Veterans are not the same person when they come home. Returning to an unfamiliar world where even the grocery store can be an obstacle, simply being around crowds can spur anxiety and panic attacks. Many of these struggling Veterans are looking for a solution to post-traumatic stress but often feel that Veterans Affairs doesn’t have answers for them. They want help, not just another pill. Instead of being dependent on medications, these service animals provide a non-drug therapy that help Veterans improve their lives and be able to cope with situations when anxiety kicks in.

Service dogs accompany their Veterans anywhere the general public are allowed, including supermarkets, restaurants and places of entertainment, among many others. From nightmare interruption to lessening anxiety, well-trained service dogs can provide Veterans living with PTSD wide-ranging help that can allow them to return to a better adjusted life.

Haunted by an overwhelming fear of imminent danger, many Veterans experience traumatic life-threatening dreams. One of the most requested skills is nightmare interruption. The dogs are specifically trained to react when their partners are having nightmares by turning on a light and pulling off the blankets to wake them up, gently alleviating night terrors. They are also trained to rest their heads firmly in their partner’s lap during times of anxiety to provide instant calm and relief. The dog acts in a way that lets their partner know that everything is going to be okay; no matter what’s going on in that moment, the dog is there for you… you’ve got this.

SAVING TWO LIVES AT ONCE

Believet provides these highly-skilled assistance dogs, free of charge, to disabled Veterans. The organization plays a critical role in not only training and preparing the dogs, but also matching and partnering Veterans with dogs and providing ongoing support afterwards. All of the animals in the program have been rescued and adopted from shelters, meaning that two lives are saved—not just the Veteran, but also the dog.

The Veterans Administration approximates 20% of Veterans experience symptoms of PTSD which means there are roughly 20,000 Veterans with PTSD within a 250 mile radius of Believet’s facility in Northfield, MN. Despite the growing body of research and anecdotal evidence that supports the value and benefits of these animals, the government and insurance companies will not cover the cost. Believet has a goal to match 20-25 dogs with Veterans each year, and as a non-profit, they rely on the generosity of others to continue functioning. While it costs around $30,000 to train each service dog, the impact it has on the Veteran’s life is absolutely priceless. These brave Veterans have served our country and now it’s our turn to serve them. Along with their faithful four-legged battle buddy, the battle scars of these Veterans finally have a chance to heal. For more information about Believet and how to donate, visit www.believet.org.