Beadwork, Art and the Body Dilo Tse Dintsh

Beadwork, Art and the Body Dilo tše Dintshi education resource

This book belongs to ……………………………………

Compiled by Alison Kearney and Leigh Leyde

An Abundance of Beadwork

The History of Beadwork in South Africa

Wits Art Museum (WAM) is home to an extraordinary collection of artworks using glass

Beadwork has been made in southern Africa for over 200 years. Many of the artworks

beads as a material. This exhibition celebrates beadwork, an artform that is made

on this exhibition were made after European glass beads were imported by colonial

across Africa to decorate the body. As you explore the galleries, each piece will reveal

traders. The artists, who are usually women, use very small needles and fine threads to

the beauty and diversity found in beadwork. Use this booklet to guide you and take time

sew the beads into complicated patterns, colours and techniques. Even after so many

to draw and write down your thoughts.

years beadwork is still relevant today. Look closely at these two South African pieces.

They were made in the 1800s. Can you see how small the beads are? Imagine how hard it must have been to make these artworks. How many shapes and colours can you find?

Let’s Draw Find another artwork in the street gallery. Use the label to find out when it was made. How old is your chosen artwork? Draw all the different shapes you can see.

Artist unrecorded, (South Sotho, Lesotho/South Africa), panel, probably from a girdle, date unrecorded (c. late 19th C), beads, thread, seeds, Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum)

Artist unrecorded, (Zulu, South Africa), Ulimi (neck-piece), date unrecorded (c. late 19th C), glass beads, natural fibres, metal studs. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum)

Wearing Beadwork Look at the three examples of beaded ensembles worn by men and women displayed in the Maria Stein-Lessing and Leopold Spiegal glass cabinet. They could have been worn during special ceremonies or important events, like weddings and initiation. When worn, the beadwork

Lesira (Veil)

transforms the body of the wearer into a moving artwork. Each beadwork piece has an important meaning for those who wear them. The wearer chooses to decorate themselves based on their own individual style as well as to reflect their cultural identity. For example a married Sotho woman will choose a different headpiece from the one she wore before she was married, to show Seqotsana (headband)

her new status and reflect her personal style.

Kosa (waistbelt)

Ikoso (apron)

Let’s Talk Look at the different outfits in the case. Have you or a family member ever worn beadwork to a special event?

What does beadwork mean to you?

South Sotho initiates wearing mesira veils.

QwaQwa, South Africa. Photographer: David Riep (January 2009)

Titani (girl’s initiation apron), created by Maseape Phoofolo

Artists unrecorded unless stated, (South Sotho, Lesotho/South Africa), ensemble of beadwork items worn by South Sotho women at different life-stages, date unrecorded, seeds, glass beads, thread, bottle caps, fibres, blanket pin. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Celebrating Diversity There is a huge diversity of beadwork styles and patterns across South Africa. Each artwork has been stitched together by hand in a unique and beautiful way. You can see this when you compare the leg bands in the display cases. Even though there are similarities in size, shape and how the beadwork is worn, each legband has its own patterns, shapes and colours. Some artists’ designs may be influenced by their peers whilst other designs are passed down from generation to generation, but each artist puts their own individual creativity into the piece they are making.

Artist unrecorded, (Xhosa, South Africa), Izatsaba zemitya (legband), date unrecorded, beads, textile, buttons, string, hide. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Mathunzi Sibaya (Zulu, South Africa), Ingusha (leg band), c. 1940s, large glass beads, string. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Artist unrecorded (Xhosa, South Africa), Isatsaba (Legband), date unrecorded, beads, buttons. Wits Art Museum.

Ndabankulu Zulu, (Zulu, South Africa), Ingusha (leg decoration), c. 1960s, beads, wool. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Let’s Talk Choose two different sets of leg bands in the exhibition.

What similarities and differences can you see?

Artist unrecorded, (South Sotho, South Africa), Lerapo (armband), date unrecorded, leather belt, beads, nylon line, Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Mixing Materials

Designs and Patterns

Most of the artworks you see on display are made with glass beads. Other materials like seeds,

There are many different and creative ways to make beaded artworks. Beads can be strung and stitched to make necklaces. Strings of beads can also be wrapped around a grass coil to make waistbands. Whatever the size or the design, each piece is incredibly time consuming and requires extreme attention to detail. Making intricate beadwork involves mathematical planning. You can find many symmetrical, asymmetrical and geometrical patterns. When you take a closer look you can see that the artist has thought very carefully about where each bead should go.

stones, bones, buttons, metal studs, clay beads, and shell can also be found. Many of the artworks have been sewn onto blankets, leather panels or even fabric. More contemporary pieces frequently include plastic beads instead of glass. How many different materials can you identify?

Artist unrecorded, (Ndebele, South Africa), Urara (blanket), date unrecorded (c. mid 20th C), commercial blanket, beads, thread. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Let’s Write Choose an artwork in the Gertrude Posel Core Gallery. Write down the title of the artwork and where it would be worn on the body. List all the materials that have been used to make this artwork.

Let’s Take a Closer Look Find this necklace in the exhibition. Look carefully through the magnifying glass at how it has been made. Can you describe how this artwork was created?

Artist unrecorded, (South Sotho, South Africa), Isitipe (plastic bead shawl), date unrecorded, plastic beading, Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Artist unrecorded, (Zulu, South Africa), Necklace, date unrecorded, beads, Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Contemporary Artwork and Beads

Beads as Artistic Inspiration

New and exciting beadwork designs are being created as we speak. This iBandla

Beadwork is a source of inspiration for many contemporary South African artists. Fashion designer Laduma Ngxokolo makes reference to older forms of beadwork and his own Xhosa identity by incorporating beadwork patterns into the clothing he designs.

lamaNazaretha apron is one of the newest pieces collected by Wits Art Museum from Mai Mai market in Johannesburg. The detailed patterns reveal how beadwork as an artform is always evolving as new ideas are developed.

Let’s Talk Compare the designs of this Xhosa legband with the designs used by Laduma Ngxokolo. In what ways has Ngxkolo used beadwork?

Busisizwe Mabaso, (Zulu, South Africa), iBandla lama Nazaretha (ILN), Umnqwazi (head/hat band), date unrecorded, beads, thread. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Artist unrecorded, (Xhosa, South Africa), Umathsaba (leg band), date unrecorded (c. early 20th C), beads, thread and buttons. Standard Bank African Art Collection (Wits Art Museum).

Let’s Draw What do you see when you look carefully at the pattern? Can you draw it?

MaXhosa by Laduma. Knitwear with reference to Xhosa beading patterns.

Photgropher: Simon Deiner/SDR Photo ©2014

Let’s Reflect Let’s Reflect On the notecard provided describe which artwork in the beadwork exhibition moves you.

Tell us why you love it.

Respond anyway you choose.

You can write, draw or compose a poem.

Share your reflections with us, by placing your notecard on the response wall.