Urban Agenda New York City, October 2013

Tender Buttons: One Woman’s Fascination with

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aecBe ecű 8Fc) ec k c ¥ X If you play golf—at the highest level, just for fun, competitively, or at all—you know it is a high-performance sport. To play well in a tournament or a friendly weekend round, your swing and your body must be in good shape. Have one without the other and you might do okay. But to truly excel both must be in top form.

Welcome to Golf & Body NYC, the only club in New York City devoted to enhancing čŅĬü ŞåųüŅųĵ±ĹÏåØ čåƋƋĜĹč ±ĹÚ ŸƋ±ƼĜĹč ĀƋØ ±ĹÚ ŅýåųĜĹč ƋĘå ŅŞŞŅųƋƚĹĜƋƼ ƋŅ ŸŅÏĜ±ĬĜDŽå with friends and business associates. All under one roof.

Leading the expert team of golf instructors is Darrell Kestner, one of the Met Area’s top ŞųŅü域ĜŅűĬŸţ eƋ ƋĘåĜų ĀĹčåųƋĜŞŸ ĜŸ ƋĘå Ĭ±ƋåŸƋ ±ĹÚ čųå±ƋåŸƋ ĜĹ ĘĜčĘěŸŞååÚØ ÏŅĵŞƚƋåųĜDŽåÚ Ƌå±ÏĘĜĹč åŧƚĜŞĵåĹƋ ±ĹÚ ŸĜĵƚĬ±ƋŅųŸØ ±ĬĬ ĜĹ ± ƖĂØLjLjLjěüŅŅƋ ŸŞ±Ïå ŅĹ ƋĘå ƋĘĜųÚ āŅŅų Ņü ± modern building, minutes from Penn Station. e ŸĩĜĬĬåÚ Ƌå±ĵ Ņü ƵåĬĬĹ域 åƻŞåųƋŸ ŅýåųŸ ±Ĺ unprecedented range of sports medicine and wellness services that complement and support Golf & Body NYC’s ŞåųŸŅűĬĜDŽåÚ ŞųŅčų±ĵŸţ kŞƋĜŅĹŸ ĜĹÏĬƚÚå ŞĘƼŸĜϱĬ ƋĘåų±ŞƼØ ÏĘĜųŅŞų±ÏƋĜÏØ čŅĬüěŸŞåÏĜĀÏ stretching, yoga, and other modalities that

If you are serious about your golf, your body, or both, Golf & Body NYC is where you need to be. And where you’ll want to be.

From its state-of-the-art gym to high-tech golf simulators and wellness services, Golf ¼ ŅÚƼ c¥ ŅýåųŸ ± ƚĹĜŧƚå ÏŅĵÆĜűƋĜŅĹ of experts, proven programs, a distinctive location, and luxurious private-club amenities unmatched anywhere in Manhattan—or in the world. åĹ Ęå±ųØ ± ŞĜŅĹååųĜĹč ĀƋĹ域 Ƌų±ĜĹåų who works with a number of PGA Tour golfers, leads the body team. Ben and his team conduct a physical assessment on each member, from which they construct ±Ĺ ĜĹÚĜƴĜÚƚ±ĬĜDŽåÚ ƵåĬĬĹ域 ŞųŅčų±ĵ ƋʱƋ includes exercise and nutrition.

help prepare the body as well as prevent injury and foster healing.

But what makes Golf & Body NYC truly special is its commitment to combining the physical and the golf, the trainers and pros working together to create regimens that help members play the best game of their lives in the best shape of their lives. :ŅĬü ¼ ŅÚƼ c¥ ±ĬŸŅ ŅýåųŸ åƻÏĜƋĜĹč entertainment options from a “19th hole” to sophisticated dining.

“Golf & Body NYC is probably the closest thing we’ve got in the United States that approaches the capability of an Olympic training center for golf.”

— George Zahringer, 2013 Seniors Open Amateur Champion, USGA Senior Amateur runner-up, sevenƋĜĵå ţ ţ åĹĜŅų kŞåĹ Ş±ųƋĜÏĜޱĹƋØ Manhattan resident, and member of Golf & Body NYC

Golf & Body NYC. Live the game.

Golf & Body NYC | 883 Avenue of the Americas (between 31st and 32nd) | 212/244-2626 | www.golfbodynyc.com

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URBAN BOOKS

TENDER BUTTONS One Womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fascination with Gertrude Stein

BY LINDA ARNTZENIUS

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URBAN BOOKS

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

11

CALENDAR HIGHLIGHTS

10/21

10/18 October

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

15

BE T THE CLOCK Lifestyle choices and early detection in the battle against breast cancer

BY ELLEN

16

URBAN AGENDA New York City

OC T OB E R 20 1 3

GILBERT

O

ctober is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, an annual campaign to draw attention to the principle cause of death from cancer among women globally. WHO (World Health Organization) and the National Breast Cancer Association get behind the October endeavor, and smaller, local groups participate as well.

The color pink, which has become associated with the campaign, is in particularly wide evidence as people sport pink ribbons, tee-shirts and other accessories to announce their support of the fight against breast cancer.

Actress/activist Angelina Jolie didn’t wait for October (it was May, 2013) to announce that after receiving genetic counseling indicating that she had the “faulty” BRCA 1 gene, she had chosen to have a preventive double mastectomy.

Although it was already on the rise, Breast Cancer Oncologist and Assistant Professor of Medicine at New York University Medical Center Komal Jhaveri acknowledges that, as a result of Jolie’s disclosure, “there has certainly been an uptick in the interest for genetic testing that can help predict a person’s potential risk of developing breast cancer.” Most inherited cases of breast cancer and/or ovarian cancer are associated with two abnormal genes: BRCA 1 (Breast Cancer gene 1, the faulty gene in Jolie’s case) or BRCA 2 (BR Cancer gene 2). Women who test positive for the BRCA mutations may consider preventive surgeries to remove their breasts and/or ovaries in a shared-decision with their breast surgeon, to reduce their risk of developing breast and/or ovarian cancer.

All breast cancers are not the same.

followed by a fellowship in Hematology/Oncology at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center in New York.

If the genetic test is positive for the mutation, there are several alternative steps one can take to lower the risk of breast and/or ovarian cancer or to try to detect their early development.

In addition to preventive surgery, a woman can lower risk through medications such as tamoxifen or aromatase inhibitors. Women at high risk are advised to increased monitoring (self breast exams and clinical breast exams), and screening every six months using mammography and MRI. “Each woman’s physical and emotional needs are her own,” says Jhaveri. “Testing allows a woman to make a choice that is right for her as a shared-decision making process with the help of a genetic counselor, breast surgeon, and/or an oncologist.” She notes, however, that even if the genetic test is negative, one could still be at increased risk due to some other inherited gene yet to be discovered or not detectable by currently available tests.

GREAT STRIDES

In the Introduction to the most recent (2010) edition of Dr. Susan Love’s Breast Book, (“the bible for women with breast cancer”), the widely-acknowledged authority on breast cancer points to two recent “paradigm shifts” that have dramatically altered perceptions of the disease. The first is recognition of the fact that all breast cancers are not the same, and that the five or six different subtypes that can occur need to be addressed differently, with customized treatment for each woman.

The second big shift, notes Love, is “the realization that cancer cells do not function in isolation.” This means that a mutated cell’s “local environment” can make a difference, and while there is no sure way to prevent breast cancer, there are things that a woman can do to reduce the risk. Early detection and good lifestyle choices can be key.

MULTIDISCIPLINARY APPROACH

While any woman newly diagnosed with breast cancer or with a strong family history of breast and/or ovarian cancers should consider genetic testing, only five to ten percent of all breast cancers are actually hereditary, notes Jhaveri, who completed medical school at the University of Mumbai, trained in nuclear medicine where she was introduced to the field of nuclear oncology. In the U.S. she pursued a residency in Internal Medicine

At New York-Presbyterian Hospital/Weill Cornell Medical Center, medical oncologist Tessa Cigler emphasizes the use of a multidisciplinary approach to any form of breast cancer. “It is a complicated disease that requires a lot of health care professionals,” she observes. Input from oncologists, geneticists, pathologists, surgeons, specialists in reconstructive surgery, fertility experts, physical therapists, nutritionists, and mental health professionals can all factor into decisions about any

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medications, notes Jhaveri, these women should remain up-to-date with recommendations for screening and surveillance including breast self-exams, clinical breast exams every six months and appropriate breast imaging.

LIFESTYLE

Komal Jhaveri is an Assistant Professor of Medicine at New York University Medical Center.

Tessa Cigler is a medical oncologist at New YorkPresbyterian Hospital/Weill Cornell Medical Center.

Obesity has been linked with the development of postmenopausal breast cancer, and both Jhaveri and Cigler encourage women of all ages to maintain a healthy weight, and to eat a “heart healthy” diet rich in fruits and vegetables, and low in saturated fats. Avoiding hormone replacement therapy after menopause, they say, can also help reduce the risk.

Other modifiable variables include getting at least moderate exercise (Cigler suggests walking for 30 minutes at least three times a week) and limiting alcohol consumption. Women who choose to breast feed for several months may get an added benefit of reducing breast cancer risk. Recent research suggests that low vitamin D levels can be linked to breast cancer risk, and that adequate levels can prevent breast cancer recurrence.

“Women should discuss checking VIT D levels with their physicians for general health reasons,” says Jhaveri. Books like The Pink Ribbon Diet by Mary Flynn and Nancy Verde Barr provide recipes for what is largely a plant and olive oil-based Mediterranean-style eating plan for women at any level of risk for breast cancer.

patient. While there is no formal system or coordinator to insure that this collaboration takes place at New York-Presbyterian. “It’s nice when everyone cooperates, though,” says Cigler, who received her undergraduate degree from Harvard College, and her medical degree from Duke University School of Medicine and also holds a Master's degree in Public Health from the Harvard School of Public Health. She completed her residency in Internal Medicine at New York Presbyterian Hospital Weill Cornell Medical Center, followed by a fellowship in Medical Oncology and Hematology at the Dana-Farber Harvard Cancer Center.

Only five to ten percent of all breast cancers are actually hereditary.

For non high-risk women, the question of when to begin getting mammograms and how often to get them has been the subject of some debate in recent years. Mammograms can detect breast abnormalities early in women over 40. Findings from a large study in Sweden of women in their 40s who underwent screening mammograms showed a decrease in breast cancer deaths by 29 percent. On the other hand, another study concluded that despite more women being diagnosed with early breast cancer due to mammogram screening, the number of women diagnosed with advanced breast cancer hasn't decreased.

The study suggested that some women with early breast cancer were diagnosed with cancer that may never have affected their health. It’s a bit of a gamble, but most doctors recommend annual mammograms after the age of 40. “Regular screening is the most effective way of ensuring that these cancers are detected at early stages,” says Jhaveri.

Women with a strong family history, a known genetic mutation in the BRCA gene, or those diagnosed with precancerous conditions that put them at greater risk for developing breast cancer, can consider taking medications such as tamoxifen or aromatase inhibitors. Regardless of these

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New York University Medical Center.

New York-Presbyterian Hospital/Weill Cornell Medical Center.

TREATMENT

GOOD-BYE TO HAIR LOSS

Jhaveri is very encouraged by the “landmark accomplishments” and “enormous advances” in the way the medical profession manages breast cancer with both local and systemic treatments during the last two decades. With respect to local therapy, she points to less radical surgical interventions and better radiotherapy techniques that have ameliorated the physical and psychological morbidity for some women with this disease. Like Susan Love, she points to the fact that a better understanding of the underlying tumor biology has enabled doctors and researchers to move from the “one-size fits all” approach to an era of personalized medicine wherein an individual patient’s tumor cells are analyzed to determine if a particular drug could be an effective treatment.

One of the really positive stories of the modern targeted therapy in breast cancer has been the approval of Trastuzumab (Herceptin), says Jhaveri. “Not only did we have a new drug that dramatically changed the outcome of a deadly type of breast cancer known as the HER2 positive breast cancer, but we also learned the importance of having a reliable companion diagnostic (in this case the expression of HER2 protein on the cancer cells), which can determine which patients are likely to benefit from this treatment.” Since Herceptin, three additional drugs—Lapatinib (Tykerb), Pertuzumab (Perjeta) and T-DM1(Kadcyla) have been approved for patients with HER2 positive metastatic breast cancer.

Women diagnosed with breast cancer who face chemotherapy have a reassuring new option for preventing hair loss. “Cold caps” have been used in Europe for many years with what Cigler describes as “surprisingly successful results,” and they are finally coming into wider use in this country. The idea behind cold packs is to keep the patient’s head cold enough to prevent chemotherapy from destroying healthy scalp tissue. There are some “theoretical risks” to the procedure, says Cigler, “it’s a lot of work”: cold packs need to be changed frequently during a single chemotherapy session in order to maintain low temperatures.

Doctors and technicians are excited about the potential of a new, more efficient cold pack machine that is about to be tested.

BEYOND THE WEST

While the news about breast cancer in the Western world is encouraging, its incidence in developing countries is on the rise.

Some suggest that this is may be partially due to the adoption of unhealthy western lifestyles that include smoking, insufficient physical activity, and unhealthy diets. In more rural areas, there is a serious lack of resources for early detection and treatment.

Increased awareness, infrastructure improvements, and more funds to support better-educated health providers are badly needed, and it will take more than a month-long campaign to do it. U

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION The National Cancer Institute Fact Sheet www.cancer.gov/cancertopics/factsheet/Risk/BRCA

New York-Presbyterian www.nyp.org/services/oncology/breast-cancer.html

National Comprehensive Care Cancer Network www.nccn.org

New York University Cancer Institute www.cancer.med.nyu.edu

Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/adult/breast

Cold Cap Use www.cornellbreastcenter.com

Appendices in the book, 100 Questions and Answers about Advanced and Metastic Breast Cancer by Lillie D. Shockney and Gary R. Shapiro, include: a useful list of American resources for information on cancer; a chart that details drugs used in the treatment of breast cancer, their actions, and common side effects; and a glossary of clinical terms.

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URBAN HEALTH

Redefine Your Gluteus Maximus in New York City

BY TAYLOR SMITH

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ART SCENE

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

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URBAN HEALTH

Treating Infertility with

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BY TAYLOR SMITH

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

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=1 B=0 3 @ !

â&#x20AC;&#x153;It all relates back to whether a woman is comfortableâ&#x20AC;?

- Karen Thompson, Founder

-BDF 4JMIPVFUUFT -JOHFSJF

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or most women, looking good also means feeling good. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It all relates back to whether a woman is comfortable,â&#x20AC;? says Karen Thompson, founder of Lace Silhouettes Lingerie, which has three area locations. With this in mind she has created a comfortable shopping environment that feels like a home.

According to Thompson, eight out of ten women are wearing the wrong-sized bra. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Many women believe that you cannot have support without underwire, but there are non-underwire bras which use other techniques to achieve similar support.â&#x20AC;?

Lace Silhouettes Lingerie carries apparel from more than 150 brands, such as Wacoal, Natori, Chantelle, Mary Jo, Prima Dona, Wolford, Cosabella and Hanky Panky.

They also offer professional fittings with a Bra Therapist to help each woman find the right fit for her body, in sizes 30 to 44 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from every day, to sports bras to luxury brands.

All fittings are complimentary and can take as little as 15 minutes.

The upcoming holidays bring sleeveless, halter and strapless dresses that may require alternative strap styles.

Demi and plunge bras are great with low necklines, while racer, strapless and convertible styles are essential for maintaining support with difficult bodices and sleeves.

Selecting the best bra style for her individual body type will ensure a woman always has the right bra to help her look fabulous regardless of the event, the season or what sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wearing.

8F DBMM DVTUPNFST HVFTUT JO PVS IPNF Princeton, NJ 609.688.8823 51 Palmer Square West

Cape May, NJ 609.898.7448 429 Washington Street www.lacesilhouetteslingerie.com

Lahaska, PA 215.794.3545 30 Peddlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Village

ART SCENE

URBAN HEALTH

Rejuvenate Your Skin with Non-Surgical Treatments

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

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=1 B=0 3 @ !

ART

BY DILSHANIE

PERERA

UNDERGROUND

PHOTO: CLICKSNAPPY

New York City’s largest art gallery is below street level. It boasts commissioned work by artists as varied as Roy Lichtenstein, Romare Bearden, Maya Lin, Sol LeWitt and countless other contemporary sculptors, designers, and multimedia specialists. The space housing the collection isn’t a secret extension of the Met or a new gallery in Chelsea. It’s the city’s transit system.

Details from (top) Tom Otterness’s “Life Underground,” 2001, (bottom) Eric Fischl’s “The Garden of Circus Delights,” 2001.

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PHOTO: ALLEY CAT PHOTOGRAPHY

I

Maya Lin’s “Eclipsed Time,” 1994. f you’ve ever been inside a subway station, ridden on the Metro North or Long Island Railroad (LIRR), or driven into the city via the bridges and tunnels, then you’ve certainly seen some of these artworks. They are part of Arts for Transit, a program sponsored by New York City’s Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA).

Think of the tile mosaic just below the A, C, and E platforms at Penn Station. The scene is rendered in mostly golds, reds, and browns with animals and people led by a ringmaster, arms raised and bathed in light. It piques the imagination. A bear standing casually on two legs is clad in a red dress and boots. She stares quizzically back at the viewer. This 2001 piece is called “The Garden of Circus Delights” and is by artist Eric Fischl. The image is simultaneously sinister and redemptive, and Fischl has described it as a “contemporary Dante’s Inferno” allegorically “turning commuting into a spiritual quest.”

You don’t have to leave Penn Station to find more art. As you walk from the A, C, E platform across the station toward the LIRR main concourse and 1, 2, 3 entrance, look up. Maya Lin’s sculpture “Eclipsed Time” is installed permanently in the ceiling. Known for designing the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Lin created this moveable alternative clock for the MTA in 1994. It is made of glass, aluminum, steel, and fiber optics.

Launched in 1985 as part of a then-ongoing overhaul of the transportation systems in the five boroughs, Arts for Transit was aimed at integrating good design within the commuting

landscape. In the early 1980s, the MTA announced that subway and rail stations were in need of facade and structural renovation.

Promoting artwork, while making the necessary improvements, was a logical next step.

Now there are over 250 permanently-installed works in the subway system alone, and the collection continues to grow. Each piece is sourced either by commission or open-call submissions.

In the latter case, artists respond to a query by the MTA and a juried panel selects a few from that group to propose a site-specific construction after consulting with community members and visiting the space. The panel then chooses the final artwork to be installed.

Commissions usually involve asking an established artist to create a work for a specific station. Frequently, the materials they must use in such major thoroughfares are different from those with which they typically work. Known for his wall-sized color-block acrylic paintings, Minimalist Conceptual artist Sol LeWitt received an inquiry in 2004 to design a permanent work for the Arts for Transit collection at the 59th Tom Otterness’s Street-Columbus Circle subway station. “Life Underground,” 2001.

OC T OB E R 20 1 3

URBAN AGENDA New York City

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PHOTO: JACQUELINE TER HAAR PHOTO: JAG9889

Sol LeWitt’s “Whirls and Twirls,” 2009.

Detail from Romare Bearden’s triptych “City of Light,” 1993.

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and approval from the MTA, the Masstransiscope was a hidden gem, before Brooklyn became a site for artistic pilgrimage in its own right.

In recent years, the work has seen a few restorations. In 2008 Brand cleaned and repainted the work, and did so again this year. When the city subways were shut down in preparation for Superstorm Sandy, vandals broke into the tunnel and spray painted over the Masstransiscope. It has since been restored to its former luster and secured to prevent future defacement.

If all of this feels like a bit of a scavenger hunt, it certainly can be. You can find more information about artists and artworks featured throughout the transit system using the Arts For Transit app, which can be downloaded onto your smartphone at mta.info/art/app. And if analog is more your speed, you can reference Arts for Transit Director Sandra Bloodworth’s book, written in collaboration with William Ayers: Along the Way: MTA Arts for Transit (Moncelli Press, 2006).

The Arts for Transit program extends into the literary arts as well. As you ride the subway, you can find a curated poetry collection on posters inside the trains, as well as on the reverse of some Metrocards. They include texts by Billy Collins, Mary Ruefle, Kevin Young, and others. Commissioned drawings inside subway cars, usually situated above the windows, provide even more to look as part of the MTA’s Poster Program. Up to six artists are invited each year to design an original work for display in unused advertising space throughout the system’s train cars and 468 stations.

This is museum-quality work in the most public of public places. It gives you the chance to see something extraordinary while going about something pedestrian, like a commute. And it makes mass transit a friendlier experience. Being sandwiched between strangers during rush hour is a bit more manageable with visions of Roy Lichtenstein’s “Times Square Mural” dancing in your head. To see it, head over to the mezzanine at 42nd Street. U

PHOTO: BIGCITIESBRIGHTLIGHTS

Paint was out of the question for such a highly trafficked station since it would wear way too easily. LeWitt instead chose porcelain tiles for the installation, a medium he had not previously worked in. He had very specific colors and shapes in mind for the tiles, so his crew and the MTA grew concerned when they couldn’t find tilemakers in the U.S. who could match the bright saturated hues LeWitt wanted. Finally, LeWitt’s team located ceramicists in Madrid who were up to the challenge. “Whirls and Twirls” was unveiled to the public in 2009. One of LeWitt’s last commissions before his death in 2007, the work can’t be missed. It measures 53 feet by 11 feet and brings together 250 tiles in LeWitt’s signature colors.

The northernmost station on the number 6 subway line is the Westchester Square elevated platform. It also contains a commissioned work outside the artist’s normal purview. Romare Bearden’s “City of Light” was installed here in 1993 and involved a close collaboration between Bearden and the glass artists Benoit Gilsoul and Helmut Schardt. What was to become a startling triptych in stained glass began as one of Bearden’s signature collages showcasing city life in New York. Gilsoul and Schardt used glass and epoxy to match Bearden’s bold line and form. The result is an image that appears to be in motion, and sparkles with energy.

Bill Brand’s “Masstransiscope” is another artwork that feigns movement, though this time the viewer has to be in a subway car on the B or Q lines traveling from Brooklyn to Manhattan. Just before getting to the Manhattan Bridge if you look through the windows to your right, you’ll see an animation of colors and shapes coming together and a rocket ship taking flight. It is unexpected and magical. “Masstransiscope” works like a zoetrope, with 228 still images illuminated by fluorescent lights and encased in a frame with over 200 vertical slits cut into it. As the subway moves, the images jump and dance.

Brand’s subway animation actually predates the Arts for Transit program. Installed in 1980 with a grant from a nonprofit organization

Roy Lichtenstein’s “Times Square Mural,” 2002.

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31

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WARBY PARKER

IT’S THE VISI N THING

BY ILENE

DUBE

Remember Lasik eye surgery that could correct less than perfect vision? That was in the day before Warby Parker made wearing spectacles cool. Girls don’t make passes at boys who wear glasses unless they’re wearing Warby Parkers.

Some of Warby Parker’s frame colors are named for cocktails such as Tennessee Whiskey and Gimlet Rose. The showroom store in SoHo displays bookcases full of classic books that are available for browsing while testing the glasses for purchase.

34

URBAN AGENDA New York City

OC T OB E R 20 1 3

T

he company is named for two of Jack Kerouac’s earliest and unpublished characters, Zagg Parker and Warby Pepper. Warby Parker’s founders came across the characters in an exhibit of Kerouac’s private diaries at the New York Public Library. Google the characters’ names, and all you get are references to the eyeglass company.

In fact, Google the names, and ads for Warby Parker will follow you everywhere.

Wharton Business School grads, Neil Blumenthal (doesn’t wear glasses), Andy Hunt, Jeff Raider and Dave Gilboa (he’s near sighted and has astigmatism and has worn glasses since the sixth grade) put those names together over four pints of Yuengling in Philadelphia in 2008.

The name suggests the literary life, well-lived. Kerouac inspired a generation to take a road less traveled and see the world through a different lens. In testing, the founders learned, people found the name familiar. But it wasn’t that easy they went through 2,000 other ideas first.

Warby Parker was founded with a rebellious spirit and a lofty objective, according to its website: to create boutique-quality, classically-crafted eyewear at a revolutionary price. Did we mention that Warby Parker prescription eyewear starts at $95 a pair? For those who haven’t bought eyeglasses recently, that’s about a quarter of what many pay. And if that’s not reason enough to buy these eyeglasses, for every pair Warby Parker sells, the company gives away a pair to the more than 1 billion in the world who have no access to eyeglasses.

“We believe everyone has a right to see,” say the founders.

Without glasses, people can’t read, learn or work. Before Warby Parker, Blumenthal ran Vision Spring, a New York non-profit that trains low-income men and women to start their own businesses selling glasses in their own communities, helping to alleviate poverty by creating jobs. Warby Parker continues to work with Vision Spring to give away glasses.

How can they afford to do this? “The industry is controlled by a few large companies that have kept prices artificially high, reaping huge profits from consumers who have no other options,” according to the website. “By circumventing traditional channels and engaging with customers directly through its website, Warby Parker is able to provide higher-quality, better-looking prescription eyewear at a fraction of the price.”

Most high-end fashion house brands don't design or produce their own eyewear. They sell those rights to large companies that do it for them. These large companies design, manufacture and sell branded glasses for astronomical prices directly to optical shops and then pay fees to the fashion brands for using their name and logo. Then, optical shops mark up frames and lenses an additional two to three times before selling to the consumer.

Before Warby Parker, Luxottica was the only game in town.

Luxottica owns Oakley, Ray Ban, Oliver Peoples, Persol, and Arnette, and licenses most of the major fashion brands (Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Prada, DKNY). While the Federal Trade Commission was seemingly asleep at the wheel, Luxottica acquired retail chains Lens Crafters, Pearl Vision, Sunglass Hut, Sears Optical, Target Optical, and the second largest vision insurance company in the world, EyeMed. “For us, it just didn’t make sense that a pair of glasses should cost just as much as an iPhone,” says Blumenthal. “We knew we could manufacture glasses using amazing materials, but do it for a fourth or a fifth of the price. We know what kind of facial characteristics we are designing for and trying to make sure that we leave something for everyone.”

Warby Parker is independent, creating its own designs and selling directly to the public. The original business model was to sell exclusively via the internet or popup stores, keeping overhead low. In keeping with Kerouac’s on-the-road spirit, Warby Parker began, in its pre-showroom days, touring the nation in a retrofitted school bus, complete with wood paneling, leather couches, vintage books, and more. Glasses are for reading, so visitors can pick up a book and flop down on one of the bus’s luxe

OC T OB E R 20 1 3

URBAN AGENDA New York City

35

leather couches. The shelves are stocked with classic page– turners and Beat Generation favorites, including a couple of titles

by Kerouac.

In order to make its online eyewear business model effective, Warby Parker offers free shipping both ways on up to five pairs of glasses for five days. In winter 2012, a temporary shop at 45 Grand Street in Manhattan included a giant yurt inside a raw, 4,000square-foot garage for a sort of shopping party, eschewing the concept of a salesman behind the counter. “We wanted to reflect SoHo’s creative movements like Fluxus and the Wooster Group,” says Blumenthal. Now they have added showrooms in Manhattan, Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Philadelphia, Miami, Chicago and elsewhere.

The three-year-old start-up counts Millard S. Drexler, chief executive of J. Crew, and American Express, as well as General Catalyst Partners, Spark Capital, Tiger Global Management, Thrive Capital and Menlo Ventures as investors.

In order to create buzz about a Warby Parker retail operation opening in The Standard Hotel, Hollywood, young musicians Nikki Lane, Sophie Auster, Cillie Barnes, Goldspot’s Sidd Khosla and Teddy Thompson were selected for a four-day residency. During their stay in the hotel, each artist produced two songs inspired by their surroundings to be released on a 7-inch record for sale during the holiday season at select Warby Parker stores, with royalties going to the artists.

Warby Parker style is influenced by 1940s and ’50s eyewear but updated with something contemporary to fit the personalities of people wearing the glasses today—the style has been described as “geek chic.” “We started the company because we wanted to make beautiful glasses affordable so people could think of them as fashion accessories, not just something you buy

36

URBAN AGENDA New York City

every time your prescription expires,” says Gilboa. “You could afford to own multiple pairs; you could wear them with different outfits for different occasions, for different moods.”

Some of the colors are named for cocktails: Tennessee Whiskey, Gimlet Rose. There’s a model named for Aldous Huxley. A new line, based on the ’70s and ’80s, has glasses named Winston, Jasper, Sayles, Jules, Becket, Preston, Percey and Roosevelt.

The founders consider Warby Parker a “B” Corporation—that is, for benefit, versus for profit. “We want to think of our ‘stakeholders’ in every decision we make. When we think of stakeholders we’re thinking about our customers: how do we provide exceptional value and great customer service; our employees: how are we going to create an environment where they are going to thrive; and about the environment: how do we minimize our environmental impact. We’re the only carbon neutral eyewear brand in the world.”

Shoe retailer Zappos was their model for an online retailer concerned with making customers happy with good service.

Multinational consumer electronics corporation Apple was their model for simplicity and design. Warby Parker also looked to outdoor clothing and gear company Patagonia’s strong social mission—Patagonia gives 10 percent of profits to the environment.

Despite the success of the retail stores, there are no plans to retire the touring bus. “The founders are very involved in the start-up scene here in New York,” says a spokesperson for the brand. “They support student innovations as well as other start-ups.” When not traveling, the founders get together to exercise.

What’s the next big thing? The company is in talks with the tech giant to provide stylish options for Google glasses.

It should be noted that Warby Parker customers are young— progressive lenses are not available. U

OC T OB E R 20 1 3

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DESTINATION HUDSON RIVER

Historic Hudson RiverTowns

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holiday house holiday NYC holiday house house NYC NYC

DESIGNER SHOWHOUSE CELEBRATING THE BEST INDESIGNER INTERIORSHOWHOUSE DESIGN AND HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING DESIGNER SHOWHOUSE WHILE SUPPORTING THE FIGHT AGAINST CANCER CELEBRATING THE BEST IN INTERIOR DESIGN AND BREAST HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING CELEBRATING THE BEST IN INTERIOR DESIGN AND HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING WHILE SUPPORTING THE FIGHT AGAINST BREAST CANCER WHILE SUPPORTING THE FIGHT AGAINST BREAST CANCER NOVEMBER 21 - DECEMBER 18 7 Days a Week, 11am - 5pm18 NOVEMBER 21 - DECEMBER NOVEMBER 21 DECEMBER 18 Thursdays, 11am - 8pm 7 Days a Week, 11am - 5pm 7 Days$35 a Week, 11am - 5pm Admission Thursdays, 11am - 8pm Thursdays, 11am - 8pm $35 Admission Admission The $35 Academy Mansion East 63rd Mansion Street The2 Academy The Academy Mansion York City 2 New East 63rd Street 2 East 63rd Street New York City New York City )LULÄ[PUN

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For more information and to purchase tickets, visit holidayhousenyc.com For more information and to purchase tickets, visit holidayhousenyc.com

&YDJUJOH /FX $POUFNQPSBSZ $POEPNJOJVNT JO %PXOUPXO 1SJODFUPO

Located in the heart of Princeton, New Jersey, set back from quiet Greenview Avenue, is an enclave of seven exciting new homes designed by J. Robert Hillier. These stunning townhomes offer four levels of contemporary living space plus private courtyards, roof decks, yards, and two-car parking. Enormous windows fill the homes with natural light and offer terrific neighborhood views. Three of the homes feature two-story ceilings and elevators. Architecturally-inspired living in an unbeatable location - close to library, restaurants, Palmer Square, and Princeton University. Construction complete this Fall.

Prices range from $895,000 to $995,000

Barbara Blackwell Broker Associate (609) 915-5000 bblackwell@callawayhenderson.com For more information about properties, the market in general, or your home in particular, please give me a call.

RELEVANT, CONVENIENT, MODERN, FRIENDLY

NOWLEASING

6 0 9 •9 2 4 •0 3 3 A Project By J. Robert Hil ier 190 Witherspo n Stre t | Princeton, New Jersey 08542 | cop erwo dprinceton.com

downsize to a new community and a unique lifestyle in princeton • 153 LUXURY RENTAL APARTMENTS & ENCLOSED PARKING

• FULL-TIME ON-SITE CONCIERGE SERVICES PROVIDED

• BEAUTIFUL WOODS IN THE 200-ACRE PRINCETON RIDGE PRESERVE • 1/2 MILE FROM PRINCETON SHOPPING CENTER

• AMENITIES INCLUDE CAFE/ LIBRARY/LOUNGE, LECTURE/ MEETING ROOM, HEALTH CLUB, DOG PARK

NOW LEASING

609•924•0333 A Project By J. Robert Hillier 190 Witherspoon Street | Princeton, New Jersey 08542 | copperwoodprinceton.com

Recently Sold

7< B63 <=@B63/AB

301 White Oak Ridge Rd, Short Hills, NJ Sold $2,630,000

Short Hills, NJ

Edgartown, MA

9,000 + square feet of luxury in Short Hills, NJ. Built in 2008, this grand custom home rests on almost an acre of manicured property in the Hartshorn School area. The fenced-in backyard has a gate that leads to an upscale cul-de-sac street. The home is equipped with a gourmet kitchen, bluestone patio, multiple ďŹ replaces, spa bathroom, exercise room, media room, and wine cellar. Taxes: $41,744 (2013). List Price: $2,500,000.

65 School Street, Edgartown, MA

Sold $4,300,000

169 Stanwich Road, Greenwich, CT

Sold $1,675,000

Greenwich, CT 260 Dale Drive, Short Hills, NJ

54

URBAN AGENDA New York City

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9O`S\ 3Oab[S\ 0cgS`¸a /US\b B]e\S @SOZbg 5`]c^

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Sold $4,900,000

Classic colonial-style home built in 1930 and only half a block from Edgartown Harbor. Along with a dramatic sweeping staircase, the property includes a library, screened porch, and oversized kitchen with dining area. The large lot has many mature trees and an in-ground pool to complete the grounds. 6 bedrooms, 5 full, 1 half bath. Taxes: $11,755.61 (2012). Listed Price: $5,250,000.

48 Hillside, Short Hills, NJ

Short Hills, NJ

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Sold $2,350,000

French chateau on 0.93 of an acre in a quiet cul-de-sac. 3 car garage, custom exercise room, media room, and 3 ďŹ replaces. Upstairs are ďŹ ve spacious bedrooms detailed with custom moldings and ďŹ ne quality windows. The ďŹ rst ďŹ&#x201A;oor master suite has two walk-in closets and a deluxe master bathroom with an oversized shower and double jacuzzi.

Taxes: $46,525. Listed Price: $2,500,000.

27 Cottage Street, Edgartown, MA

Edgartown, MA

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Located on one of Edgartownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most desirable streets and only a few blocks from Main Street and Edgartown Harbor, the property was designed by noted architect Patrick Ahearn. The main residence features ďŹ ve bedrooms, all with private baths, as well as a large den/ofďŹ ce and media room. The property also boasts a two-car garage, pool, and a one bedroom/one bath pool house. Taxes: $6,022 (2012). Listed Price: $4,500,000.

Charming colonial built in 1929 and located on 1.31 acres in desirable FairďŹ eld County. Perfect family home. 4 bedrooms, 4 full bathrooms.

Taxes: $9,192. Listed Price: $1,750,000.

Short Hills, NJ

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Sold $1,520,000

Enchanting English Tudor located a few blocks from both downtown Millburn and the Short Hills train station. The home includes a masterfully designed third story edition, by renowned architect Al Bol. The living room features a beamed ceiling and the custom kitchen includes slate counters and stainless steel appliances. The home also has two expansive balconies which overlook a blue stone patio and English style gardens.

Taxes: $24,901. Listed Price: $1,500,000. =1 B=0 3 @ !

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Hunterdon County 609.397.5667 Sixteen Bridge Street Stockton, NJ

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URBAN AGENDA New York City

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,ITTLE 3ILVER 3ET ON ACRES ALONG THE 3HREWSBURY 2IVER THIS HISTORIC BEDROOM #OLONIAL C DELIVERS THE SPLENDOR OF THE PAST TO todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buyer. Mary Lou Mannino, Shrewsbury /FlCE

!VON "Y 4HE 3EA 'RACIOUS 6ICTORIAN C

BLOCKS TO BEACH BOASTS A WRAP AROUND PORCH

period detail. Cottage with rental potential. #HRISTIE -ARUKA ,ORAN 3PRING ,AKE /FlCE

Princeton Twp. - Custom designed home on three wooded acres overlooking the Stony Brook BOASTS AN INlNITY STYLE POOL AND SPA 7ESTERN Section. Judith Stier and Anne Nosnitsky, 0RINCETON /FlCE

Bridgewater Twp - Beautiful custom home with spectacular skyline views. Under Construction. Photo is of similar home. Nancy +ENWORTHY "ERNARDSVILLE /FlCE

Bernardsville Boro - Fully renovated custom home BOASTS WOODED ACRES ON THE "ERNARDSVILLE -OUNTAIN lREPLACES CUSTOM BUILT INS UPDATED kitchen. Stephanie Glickman, Bernardsville /FlCE

Princeton Twp. - Charming Dutch Colonial one block from Palmer Square boasts custom builtINS TWO lREPLACES AND A RENOVATED KITCHEN 7ESTERN SECTION LOCATION *UDITH 3TIER 0RINCETON /FlCE

0OINT 0LEASANT "UILT IN THIS CUSTOM HOME BOASTS BEDROOMS WITH MASTER SUITES with southern views of the Barnegat Bay. Peter :ANOWIC "AY (EAD /FlCE

7EST 7INDSOR 3TATELY CENTER HALL #OLONIAL IN 7ESTMINSTER %STATES BOASTS A RENOVATED KITCHEN

lNISHED BASEMENT WITH BAR AND %UROPEAN STEAM SHOWER 2ANDY 3NYDER 0RINCETON /FlCE

Franklin Twp. - Custom center hall overlooking the D&R Canal boasts almost nine acres, a pole barn WITH EQUESTRIAN POSSIBILITIES $AVID 7EINGARTEN AND 3TACY "UTEWICZ 0RINCETON *UNCTION /FlCE

www.glorianilson.com

Bay Head

Brick

Holmdel

Hopewell Crossing

Keyport

Manalapan

Mendham

Middletown

Ocean Township

Princeton

Princeton Junction

Robbinsville

Rumson

Shrewsbury

South Brunswick

Spring Lake

Monroe Township

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