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Horicon Marsh | Nature's Resiliency On Full Display
Molly Meister
Molly Meister is a publications supervisor in the DNR's Office of Communications.
There's an attraction in east-central Wisconsin that’s been drawing people for more than 10,000 years. Today, we know it as Horicon Marsh.
Spanning 33,000 acres, or 50 square miles (about half the size of Milwaukee), Horicon Marsh in Dodge County is the largest freshwater cattail marsh in the contiguous U.S., and a must-visit destination for people and wildlife alike.
The great glaciers of the last Ice Age gave rise to this marshland basin. Since these early origins, it has been home to an abundant variety of fish, birds and other marshland wildlife.
Evidence indicates that humans were already here when this marsh was in its infancy. Drawn to its vast hunting and foraging opportunities, nomadic hunters arrived and settled there as early as 12,000 years ago.
Fast forward to the present day, when thousands of people flock to the marsh from great distances to experience its world-renowned birding opportunities. Horicon is an ecological marvel and wildlife watcher’s paradise.
The marsh also boasts scenic hiking trails and peaceful water trails for paddlers. There’s even a cutting-edge “Explorium” and visitor center offering interactive displays, exhibits and in-person educational programs.
But that hasn’t always been the case.
Wetlands To Lake...
When Europeans came to this region, they settled near Winnebago villages. In time, these Native American settlements were displaced by the towns and villages of today.
The first modern settlement on the marsh was the town of Horicon, which is a Mohican word for “clear, pure water.” In 1846, a dam was built for powering the site’s first sawmill. This dam held back the water in the marsh, raising it 9 feet.
By flooding, the marsh became Lake Horicon, thought at the time to be the largest human-made lake in the world. After 23 years of operation, disputes led to the removal of the dam. In the years that followed, the water receded and the marsh reemerged as a haven for wildlife.
The return of wildlife brought with it the advent of hunting clubs and the rise of market hunters, who made hunting their livelihood. From the 1870s to the early 1900s, unregulated hunting devastated the duck populations on this marsh.
With the loss of so many birds, this once-famous duck marsh had little value to many people. They sought to change it once again.
To Farming Failure...
Other interests in the marsh eventually came to dominate and influence it, as muck farming or moistsoil agriculture promised quick profits.
With this potential money-making incentive, private landowners around the marsh dug ditches to drain their own land. Soon, local sentiment changed in favor of draining the entire marsh.
From 1910 to 1914, the main ditch was dredged for this purpose. Despite these efforts, farming attempts in the area failed. The exposed peat soil of the marsh dried and caught fire, and the marsh was abandoned.
Many of the ditches still seen at Horicon Marsh today are from this ill-advised agricultural era.
Those who viewed the marsh as a wasteland thought they could improve it by damming or draining it. This last effort left behind devastation they could hardly have foreseen. The marsh devolved into a wasteland, useless to man and wildlife.
Fortunately, another change was on the way.
To Waterfowl Refuge
In 1921, conservation-minded individuals began the fight to restore the marsh. This included Louis “Curly” Radke, a Horicon native who became one of the biggest proponents of the cause.
“A heritage has been stolen, a sacred trust has been trampled underfoot, a beauty spot has been crucified,” Radke said at the time.
“We fight not for the dollar, not for a name in the halls of fame, nor for the glory of man or state, but for the millions to come: the tomorrow of our boys and girls!” (Radke himself was inducted into the Wisconsin Conservation Hall of Fame years later, honored for his efforts on behalf of the marsh.)
In 1927, the state Legislature passed the Horicon Marsh Wildlife Refuge Bill. This provided for land acquisition and the construction of a dam at Horicon to restore the marshland water levels.
During the 1940s, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service purchased the northern portion of the marsh and designated it a National Wildlife Refuge. With these efforts began the recovery and restoration of Horicon Marsh.
The state-owned end of the marsh was restored at the urging of duck hunters, while the National Wildlife Refuge was created as a nesting area for the redhead duck. Today, Horicon is among the largest nesting areas for this bird in the eastern United States. Every year, about 2,000 to 3,000 redheads use Horicon.
Mallard and blue-winged teal are the most abundant nesting waterfowl at the marsh. And during the spring and fall migrations, almost all of the ducks common to Wisconsin can be seen here.
'Amazing' For Wildlife
Emphasizing waterfowl in Horicon Marsh management is for good reason: State and federal laws carefully regulate these birds because of the hunting season.
In addition, most of our state and federal wildlife properties were purchased and developed with funds contributed by hunters. This money is collected through hunting license fees, state and federal duck stamps, and excise taxes on firearms and ammunition.
“Bringing that history into perspective helps people understand the management challenges we face today, but more importantly, the resiliency of nature,” said Liz Herzmann, a DNR educator at the Horicon Marsh Education and Visitor Center.
Educating people about the marsh also has another important benefit, Herzmann added.
“It shows that if you put in the effort to fight for natural resources, it will pay off,” she said. “Horicon Marsh is a completely changed ecosystem from 200 years ago, and considering the destruction, it is still an amazing habitat for wildlife.”
The spirit of those like Curly Radke who helped in the fight to restore Horicon Marsh years ago lives on today. Current wildlife managers rely on staff, volunteers, Friends Groups and conservation groups such as Ducks Unlimited to enhance habitat for waterfowl and other game species at the marsh.
These projects aim to develop nesting cover, control water levels to encourage native food plants in wetlands, and control competition from exotic species, such as carp and hybrid cattails, that affect the habitat quality. Special projects are also conducted to help recover threatened and endangered species.
Never The Same Twice
As a wildlife educator at Horicon for more than 15 years, Herzmann is intimately familiar with the property, yet is constantly in awe of her workplace.
“Every time I step outside to lead a group or do a program, I don't know what I'm going to see,” she said. “It's not this robotic marsh that churns out the same things over and over again.
“Obviously, there are patterns and seasonality within nature, so there is some element of predictability. But you never know if you'll be walking a trail, and all of a sudden, an osprey comes down and snags a fish in front of a group of third graders.”
Herzmann encourages repeat visits to the marsh for a richer experience in this remarkable place.
“Come back often and explore different places within the marsh throughout the seasons,” she said. “You will have a unique experience every time.”
Fun Facts About Horicon Marsh
• It’s sometimes referred to as the Little Everglades of the North.
• Has three visitor centers:
Horicon Marsh Education and Visitor Center and Explorium (DNR)
Horicon National Wildlife Refuge and Visitor Center (USFWS)
Marsh Haven Nature Center (nonprofit)
• Home to some really cool wildlife, like the North American river otter and the North American beaver.
• Although not on the Ice Age National Scenic Trail, Horicon Marsh is a part of the Ice Age National Scientific Reserve Unit, which is affiliated with the National Park System. Wisconsin, including Horicon Marsh, has been considered one of the best places in North America to explore and study glacial landforms.
• Designated a Global Important Birding Area (Audubon) and a Wetland of International Importance (Ramsar Convention on Wetlands).
• 328 species of birds have been documented at Horicon Marsh and the surrounding area.
Learn More
Check out the DNR's Horicon Marsh Wildlife Area webpage for more on the marsh and to plan your visit. To learn about getting involved in the wildlife area’s volunteer program, Friends Group, bird club or archaeological society, visit the DNR's Get Involved at Horicon webpage.
