Sustaining State Natural Areas

Sustaining State Natural Areas Restoring Wisconsin’s Natural Heritage Through Giving

What is a State Natural Area?

Invasive species control via goat, WDNR

Buckthorn removal, managed and unmanaged land, WDNR

Invasive species control via controlled burn, WDNR

Wisconsin’s rare landscapes Prior to European settlement, the southern two-thirds of Wisconsin was primarily oak savanna and prairie, with scattered wetlands and woodlands. Savannas and prairies depend on periodic fires to reduce brush and create optimal conditions for grasses, wildflowers, oaks and hickories. Northern pine barrens also thrive on periodic fires, while wetlands statewide need the occasional drought.

Through fire suppression and the conversion of land to forests and farms, prairies, savannas, barrens and wetlands eventually shrank to less than 0.5 percent of their original size. They are now some of the rarest natural communities on the planet.

Why protect State Natural Areas?

In the 1940s, Aldo Leopold and others initiated the effort to protect and manage the last precious remnants of our state’s native landscape by preserving and managing them as State Natural Areas (SNAs). Parfey’s Glen became the first SNA in 1952. Today, 675 SNAs encompass more than 380,000 acres. They are valuable for research, education, biodiversity preservation and as reference sites for ecological restoration. Most importantly, they provide refuge for many rare plants and animals.

Protecting these sites from development is important, but it’s not enough. Active management is needed to re-create the conditions in which these natural communities thrive. The Natural Resources Foundation of Wisconsin continually works with the Department of Natural Resources to identify high-priority State Natural Areas. The sites featured in this book represent some of Wisconsin’s most unique and valuable ecological resources in need of management support.

The care and management of State Natural Areas is almost entirely supported by grants and gifts, as they receive very little support from the state. The following vignettes describe these ecologically important sites and how they have touched the people who visit and help manage them. As you read, please consider giving a one-time or yearly gift to help preserve one that stands out to you, whether for its uniqueness, its importance to rare and endangered species or its simple beauty.

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Priority State Natural Areas and Ecological Regions

Central Sands and Fox River

North Woods and Northern Barrens

Lake Michigan Coastal

Southern Savanna and Grasslands

Mississippi River and Driftless Area

Priority State Natural Area 3

Quincy Bluff and Wetlands “The property is an exceptionally large piece of contiguous, undeveloped, protected land providing an easily accessible but very wild and rustic experience.

One can walk for miles on the property and really have the sense that they are in a very remote and undeveloped place, quite a rarity in southern/central Wisconsin. The bluff is a notable land feature in the area that can be seen for miles around, and the SNA serves as a wonderful wildlife corridor connection to the Wisconsin River only a mile or so to the west.”

Hannah Spaul, director of land management, The Nature Conservancy

At almost 6,500 acres, Quincy Bluff and Wetlands is one of the largest and most diverse State Natural Areas. Its location on the bed of the extinct Glacial Lake Wisconsin gives it an interesting topography—a huge wetland with low sandy ridges and seepage ponds surrounded by 100– to 200-foot sandstone mesas and buttes. Its namesake, Quincy Bluff, dominates at 200 feet high and two miles long. Numerous rare plant and animal species thrive in the varied wetland ecosystem, including fragile prickly pear, ebony boghaunter dragonfly and tiger beetle.

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Oakfield Ledge “The Oakfield Ledge’s towering rock cliffs expose over 400 million years of geologic history and create an awe-inspiring setting for a peaceful hike virtually any time of the year. Don’t forget to look closely at the rocks or you’ll miss out on a huge variety of mosses and lichens. These elements help to produce one of the most magical landscape settings in the entire State of Wisconsin.”

Lindsay Renick Mayer

Eric Fowle, founding co-chair, Niagara Escarpment Resource Network

The Niagara Escarpment is a ridge that runs north from Waukesha County, forms the spine of the Door Peninsula and then arcs east through Ontario and ends at Niagara Falls. This amazing geological feature dominates Oakfield Ledge SNA, forming a series of 40-foot dolomite cliffs broken by deep crevices. Below, springs and mud-bottomed creeks provide ample habitat for ferns and flowers.

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Chiwaukee Prairie “Chiwaukee Prairie is part of the last unbroken stretch of prairie of its kind in Wisconsin. It anchors the north end of the Chiwaukee Illinois Beach Lake Plain, which represents the highest quality remaining coastal area in southeast Wisconsin and in all of Illinois. It’s a great spot for migrating birds and monarch butterflies, and offers diverse public recreational opportunities.�

Steve Richter, director of conservation programs, The Nature Conservancy

This natural area is one of the largest prairies in the state and the most intact coastal wetland in southeastern Wisconsin. If you are looking for a diversity of plant communities, this is the place.

Southern sedge meadow, wet prairie, wet-mesic prairie, dry-mesic prairie, calcareous fen (inhabited by calcium-loving plants) and oak openings exist side by side. Ten endangered or threatened plant species thrive here, as well as several rare animals and over 75 species of grassland and wetland birds.

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Baileys Harbor Boreal Forest & Wetlands, Big & Little Marsh, Cave Point-Clay Banks, Coffey Swamp, Europe Bay Woods, Rock Island Woods

Door Peninsula:

“The SNAs in Door County are crown jewels, protecting some of Wisconsin's most unique landscapes: Boreal forest, Niagara escarpment, boreal rich fens, miles of bedrock lakeshore hosting federally endangered dragonflies, plants and birds.

Exploring these areas by kayak, skiing, snowshoeing and hiking provides solace and inspiration. They are places to learn about the county's unique geology and ecology and to see what the county looked like before development.”

Terrie Cooper, director of land programs, Door County Land Trust

Dave Edwards

Above: Europe Bay Woods; Right: Cave Point-Clay Banks

The State Natural Areas of Door County are composed of coastal wetlands, bedrock beach, wetmesic forest and the northern boreal forest that is rarely seen so far south. The SNAs—both on the county’s islands and on its mainland—protect many miles of Lake Michigan shoreline and are home to rare, threatened and endangered species. Birds funnel through the area on spring and fall migrations, and it is an important breeding site for many neotropical bird species.

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Lower Chippewa River and Nine Mile Island “The Lower Chippewa River SNA is so unique that it should be saved for many future generations. The Tiffany Wildlife Area [within the Lower Chippewa River SNA] provides a wild, remote area in western Wisconsin that is surrounded by several major metropolitan areas. Train trips into Tiffany have exposed thousands of people to this beautiful area. The area is so unique both ecologically and historically, it would be a great loss for residents of Wisconsin.”

Dave Linderund, retired wildlife biologist, Wisconsin DNR

Twenty-five percent of all of Wisconsin’s remaining prairie falls within the Lower Chippewa River SNA and it contains the largest contiguous floodplain forest in the entire Midwest. Six of Wisconsin’s threatened bird species and 70 percent of all of the state’s fish species thrive there.

It is also one of only three places in the world home to the endangered Pecatonica River mayfly.

Nine Mile Island SNA, located nearby, contains the same rich prairie and floodplain forest. In addition, the northeast corner of the site is dominated by an excellent example of oak barrens, maintained by the scouring action of floods, grazing, and fires.

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South Bluff/Devil’s Nose, East Bluff, Parfrey’s Glen

Devil’s Lake:

“There’s great solitude at South Bluff/Devil’s Nose, which kind of makes it a great adventure when you’re back there. To experience this when you’re in the busiest park in the state is pretty cool and, in a way, similar to some of the busy national parks out west. You just need to get off the road a little bit to escape the masses. I love working really hard to get to a far corner of the site and finding features that not many people have seen.”

Matt Zine, natural resources program supervisor, Wisconsin DNR

East Bluff

Tucked into the Baraboo Hills within Devil’s Lake State Park are three stunning State Natural Areas, each with their own striking geological feature. South Bluff/Devil’s Nose encompasses a huge expanse of forest, but its main feature is Pine Glen, a deep quartzite gorge. East Bluff is a 400 foot high quartzite perch surrounded by pygmy forest, dry prairie, bedrock glade and even a grotto along its southern base. Parfrey’s Glen is another gorge, this one cut through Cambrian sandstone, where rare plant and insect species thrive.

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Cassville Bluffs and Dewey Heights Prairie “One of my favorite things about these two sites is the remnant prairies, and the

startling view of the prairie looking over the Mississippi River. When you lie low enough in the prairie grasses, you can make the prairie the horizon and imagine what incredible views these prairies offered when they used to cover all of the surrounding hills and bluffs. I wonder what amazing things all the tiny flowers have seen over the years—from the creation of the falcon effigy to construction of the railroads and county roads.”

Abbie Church, conservation director, Mississippi Valley Conservancy

These two bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River come alive with diverse prairie flowers during the spring, summer and fall. Cassville Bluffs also supports one of the rarest ecosystems in Wisconsin—the chinquapin oak savanna. It also contains one of the only places in Wisconsin in which upland bluffs are not cut off from the riverfront by roads. Dewey Heights Prairie lives up to its name, with its exposed cap rocks, ledges and cliffs towering 800 to 870 feet above the river.

Both SNAs are home to multiple rare animals, including three types of sparrows and the prairie ring-necked snake.

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Avoca Prairie and Blue River Bluffs “Avoca Prairie and Blue River Bluffs are two of my favorite areas in the Lower Wisconsin State Riverway and represent the tremendous biodiversity of the Riverway. The wetland prairie and remnant goat prairies offer a host of flowering plants and unique flora and fauna, not to mention the spectacular vista of the Lower Wisconsin River Valley. The citizens of Wisconsin are truly blessed to have these natural areas protected for future generations.”

Mark Cupp, executive director, Lower Wisconsin State Riverway Board

Blue River Bluffs and Avoca Prairie are both located along the Lower Wisconsin River, in the Driftless Area of southwest Wisconsin. Blue River Bluffs is situated on sand terraces elevated above the floodplain, while Avoca Prairie lies within the floodplain, which creates low, sandy ridges interspersed with linear wetlands. Both SNAs feature high-quality prairies that are home to diverse species, from the state threatened Indian plantain to red-shouldered hawk and Blanding’s turtle.

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Hogback Prairie “The Hogback Prairie SNA is truly amazing. With rare birds, butterflies, reptiles, and prairie plants this site contains the last vestiges of a functioning prairie ecosystem. I’m really excited to be the manager of this property where I can work to not only maintain what’s already there, but also connect the remnants by planting prairie in between. This is the only SNA in my work area that has this level of potential and opportunity” Armund Bartz, Driftless Area ecologist, Wisconsin DNR

Hogback Prairie SNA is one of Wisconsin’s most interesting places, with its narrow, steep-sided limestone ridge rising 300 feet above the Citron Valley. The variety of prairie communities and slope angles make for an unusual mix of plants. Dry prairie species like side oats grama and hoary vervain live side-by-side with moister prairie species like mountain mint and needle grass.

Rare and threatened species include Hill’s thistle, Bell’s vireo and ottoe skipper.

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Squirrel River Pines “My most vivid memory of the summers I spent in central Wisconsin when I was growing up is of the red pines: their fragrance, their bark, the soft carpet of needles they shed and the whisper of the wind through their branches. To stand face to face with a red pine is to marvel at the beauty of its trunk and the scales of color, sometimes dotted with evidence of a hungry woodpecker. Now I am blessed to live in north central Wisconsin, where red and white pine stand together, reaching for the light. If it is possible to pick one favorite landscape in our beautiful state, this would be mine.�

Kris Krause, board member, Natural Resources Foundation of Wisconsin

A narrow, sandy peninsula covered in large red pines runs northeast towards the Squirrel River in this SNA. Charred stumps and snags pay tribute to the history of fire that probably created the pine stand and eagles have been known to perch here. The underbrush includes beaked hazel, wintergreen and early low blueberry. A large wetland complex surrounds the peninsula and transitions the landscape toward the slow, warm Squirrel River. Pine warbler, red squirrel and red-breasted nuthatch are characteristic of the area.

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Spread Eagle Barrens “The most distinctive aspect of the Spread Eagle Barrens SNA is that it does not serve to preserve wilderness apart from the human community, but rather augments the rural experience. Locals refer to it as “The Plains” and berry pickers are more abundant than black bears in June and July. Canoeists and anglers share their waters with eagles and otters. Sand Lake is a popular spot to cool off on summer afternoons. There is room there for wildlife to thrive, and a place for humans to appreciate the land that supports life.”

Wisconsin DNR

Anna Jahns, wildlife technician, Wisconsin DNR

Six ecological communities comprise the extensive landscape of Spread Eagle Barrens, including pine barrens and a federally-designated Wild River. Frost pockets—treeless depressions where frost can occur even during the growing season—dot the landscape with their unique mix of sedges, lichens, and other plants that can survive the harsh microclimate. Many rare and declining species live here, including northern harrier and upland sandpiper.

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Rocky Run Oak Savanna “My first visit to Rocky Run, I spent the afternoon finding rare plants and insects I had previously only seen in pictures. Without warning, the unstable summer air suddenly gave rise to a cloudburst and I got soaked in the downpour. As the cloud vanished, the sun reflected off the water droplets lacing the vegetation. I saw a landscape as it looked pre-settlement, and felt as though I was experiencing nature just as a human (without raingear) might have several hundred years ago.”

Jeff Lorch, Rocky Run Oak Savanna SNA volunteer steward

Rocky Run Oak Savanna’s eastern portion offers gently rolling topography. The western side is dominated by two sheer-walled, Cambrian sandstone box canyons. This varied topography allows for a variety of canopy styles, which then provide for a great diversity of ground layer species, including the rare wooly milkweed, prairie false dandelion and Hill’s thistle. In addition, rare animals seem to thrive here, from the slender glass lizard to the coral hairstreak to the dogface butterfly.

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Olson Oak Woods and Sugar River Wetlands My favorite times are leading groups of students through the Olson Oak Woods SNA and helping them learn about its history and importance. Students love to see and hear the red-headed woodpecker, an oak savanna specialist. Red-headed woodpecker populations have declined in Wisconsin due to loss of habitat. They have recently returned to the Olson Oak Woods SNA, though, thanks to the Wisconsin DNR restoring their habitat with prescribed burns.

Betty Downs, head naturalist and field study coordinator, MMSD

Above: Sugar River Wetlands; Left: Olson Oak Woods

Sugar River Wetlands and Olson Oak Woods together offer a true multitude of landscapes and opportunities for conservation and education. Sugar River Wetlands contains wet-mesic prairie, sedge meadow and calcium-loving plant species as well as the most diverse fishery in southern Wisconsin. It is part of a large, landscape-scale management project along the Sugar River to benefit declining species. Olson Oak Woods, on the other hand, is a large, dry forest with scattered open-grown oaks dating back to the 1750s and bedrock ridges and sinkholes scattered throughout. It offers a unique opportunity as a teaching forest for Madison students and is partially owned by the Madison Metropolitan School District.

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Kettle Moraine Oak Opening and Young Prairie “I stepped out of an agricultural field and within two steps was transported a few hundred years into the past and was greeted by a diverse mesic prairie remnant that immediately made me chuckle to myself while saying "Wow!" The colors, smells and sounds in this corner of Young Prairie are hypnotic. Plants I’d only read about or seen pictures of were suddenly all around me. I couldn't hear or see the highways from there and for a little while I couldn't believe that I was still in southeastern Wisconsin.”

Zach Kastern, volunteer steward, Southern Kettle Moraine SNAs

Above: Kettle Moraine Oak Opening; Right: Young Prairie

Kettle Moraine Oak Opening has all the striking features of the interlobate moraine—kettle holes, conical mounds, gravelly hills and ridges—and is dominated by open-grown bur and black oaks with areas of dry prairie forbs and grasses in between. It also has historical significance as a Native American signal hill and a place visited by Abraham Lincoln. The nearby wet-mesic Young Prairie supports more than 80 plant species, including rare specimens like whip nut-rush and prairie Indian plantain. The site is also home to two endangered insects: the silphium borer moth and the red-tailed prairie leaf-hopper.

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Ridgeway Pine Relict “My conservation work at Ridgeway Pine Relict helps preserve a special natural area, but it also preserves me. The manual labor keeps me physically strong, the discovery of alpine species keeps me curious and the contemplative connecting keeps me in the moment. There is the added bonus of seeing retired farmers proudly collect and sow local native seeds here. Together we benefit by knowing we are continuing a long tradition—started by family farmers—of preserving unique land and species.“ Mary Kay Baum, chair, Friends of Ridgeway Pine Relict

A pine relict is a pine-dominated conifer forest occurring as an isolated stand in the Driftless Area of southwestern Wisconsin. The eight pine relicts found in this SNA are rare vestiges of a distant past when southern Wisconsin’s climate—cooler than it is now—was amenable to pine forests.

As the climate warmed over the last 12,000 years, the steep slopes, sandstone cliffs, and rocky outcrops protected the pines from both the encroachment of warmer-climate plant communities and fires. Ridgeway Pine Relict is truly remarkable in that it supports both the pines more often seen in northern Wisconsin as well as southern plant species.

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Special thanks to the Sally R. Luthin Memorial Fund for making this publication possible.

When my wife, Sally, passed away, it only seemed right that I should do something in her memory that represented nature and its conservation. Sally, like her mother before her, loved feeding and watching birds and enjoyed being outdoors and gardening. She was tolerant and accepting of the odd creatures that our kids brought home with them after outings in nearby parks—insects galore, frogs and tadpoles, snakes and the occasional injured bunny or orphaned raccoon. At times we supported an entire menagerie of wild animals! I’m sure Sally was responsible to a large degree for all of our kids going into science and three of them being professionally involved in conservation.

We had a large bur oak planted in our community park as a memorial to Sally, but that didn’t seem enough. I decided to create a conservation endowment with the Natural Resources Foundation of Wisconsin, and the kids fully supported the idea. Over the years we’ve taken great pleasure in supporting a number of worthy causes, including whooping cranes and conservation education.

This year we’re delighted to be supporting Wisconsin’s State Natural Areas. My kids and I have enjoyed the hidden treasures found in those special places throughout the years. Parfrey’s Glen near Baraboo is one of our favorite cool and refreshing sanctuaries from the summer heat. Visits to rare prairie gems like York Prairie in Green County and Rush Creek Prairie along the Mississippi River bluffs no doubt lit the fire in two of my kids that led them to get involved with prairie restoration projects.

We hope that our modest contribution in support of this publication will inspire other nature lovers to offer their financial support to these special natural areas of Wisconsin.

Sincerely, Dick Luthin If you are interested in creating an endowment, bequest, or contributing to an existing fund with the Natural Resources Foundation, please contact us at 608-264-6267 or visit us online at WisConservation.org.

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Dick and Sally Luthin.

Courtesy of Charlie Luthin

“The DNR is caretaker of many types of public lands: state parks, forests, wildlife areas. Those lands provide many services: places to hunt, fish and hike as well as areas to view incredible scenery, lands to sustainably harvest trees. But the DNR’s State Natural Area Program has a different mission—to find, protect, and manage high-quality native landscapes that have escaped the plow, the saw and the cow.

SNAs are unique in that their primary function is the preservation of Wisconsin’s biological diversity, the full suite of its plants, animals and natural communities.”

-Thomas Meyer, wildlife biologist, Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources

Designed and edited by Lisa Charron. All photographs by Joshua Mayer unless otherwise noted. See more of Joshua’s photographs at WisconsinStateNaturalAreas.com. Maps by Tyler Brandt, Wisconsin DNR. Cover photo credits from top: Joshua Mayer, Karner blue butterfly by USFWS Midwest and Joel Tick, ornate box turtle by USFWS Midwest and Joanna Gilkeson, cream gentian by Dan Mullen via Flickr Creative Commons, red-headed woodpecker by USFWS Midwest and Jessica Bolser