Winepress - April 2012

WINEPRESS Issue No. 213 / April 2012

Organic Focus

Canadian Impressed

Tony Laithwaite

Rejuvenating Barrels

Photo: Jim Tannock

The Official Magazine of

www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

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In this issue...

Regulars

Features

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7

4

Editorial Tasman Crop Met Report

Marlborough’s Organic Focus Vineyard Wither Hills were last year selected to be the Marlborough company involved in the latest research comparing organic

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versus conventional grape

Marketing Matters

14 Generation Y-ine 27 Wine Happenings

p23

growing. We look at the initial results leading into veraison.

9

Tony Laithwaite

The co owner of one of the world’s largest specialist home delivery wine services, Tony Laithwaite played a major role in promoting

From Home and 28 News Away

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc back in the 80s. In the 26 years since, he has seen some major changes in the world of wine.

All correspondence including advertising / associate memberships / change of address to: Wine Marlborough PO Box 511, Blenheim 7240 T: 03 577 9299, F: 03 577 9298 E: admin@wine-marlborough.co.nz www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

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Making Straw Wine

A new wine company is using an

p24

age-old tradition to create a wine with a difference. Eureka last year made a straw wine, where the grapes are aged on beds of straw in a glass house.

Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd. T: 03 578 1322

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WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forrests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.

NMIT Cellar Hand Course Following the success of last year’s inaugural Cellar Hand course, NMIT, along with the Department of Social Development and local industry members have backed a second course.

p19

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TasmanCrop provides a wide range of Horticultural products including: Specialist Crop Fertilisers Crop Protection Chemistry Personal Safety & Spraying Equipment Horticultural Textiles & Nettings Tools, Ties & Harvesting Equipment Irrigation / Fertigation Equipment Plant & Soil Analytical / Testing Services Please contact us for technical advice.

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

0800 855 255 28 King Edward St Motueka T: 03 528 6215

Unit 11, Tyrone Park Jacks Rd, Renwick T: 03 572 5164

Produced by:

From the Editor

Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Editor:

New Zealand Wine lost one of its greatest champions recently, with the death of Master of Wine, John Avery.

Not only was he the first person to import New Zealand wine into the UK way back in

Tessa Nicholson

the 70s, but his enthusiasm for our quality never dimmed in nearly 40 years.

16 Bank Street

He was the very first European judge at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards, back

Blenheim

in 1978 – a year when only five gold medals were awarded. He was invited back in

T: 021 709 571

1981 and again for a third time in 2010. He was a guest of Wine Marlborough at the

E: tessa.nicholson@me.com

Wine Weekend in 2010 where a special relationship with this region was formed.

If you wish to make contact with any

commercial links between Marlborough’s wine industry and UK importers, distributors

member of the Wine Marlborough

and retailers. The first recipient of the Wine Marlborough NZ-UK John Avery Wine

Board, the following are their email

Scholarship was Marcus Pickens and the second recipient, who will come from the

addresses.

UK, is yet to be announced.

Dominic Pecchenino:

So who was John Avery MW? He was the fourth generation to be involved in the wine

nzyanks@xtra.co.nz Anna Flowerday: ajflowerday@xtra.co.nz Blair Gibbs: blair@spyvalley.co.nz James Jones: james@starborough.co.nz Ivan Sutherland: ivan@dogpoint.co.nz Ben Glover: ben@witherhills.co.nz Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Clive Jones:

He willingly gave his support and name to a scholarship to encourage and promote

and spirits importation company, Averys of Bristol. He gained his Master of Wine in 1975, and held the position of Chair at the Institute in 2000. He is credited with coining the phrase New World wines and was a respected judge around the world. He was never satisfied with relying on other people to bring wines to his attention, instead preferring to travel and talk to wine producers on their home turf. He along with the then CEO of the Wine Institute of New Zealand, Terry Dunleavy, helped establish the annual New Zealand wine tastings in London – which are still a vital cog in our international promotional programme. He was a major supporter for New Zealand to be the host nation at the London Trade Fair in 1987, which helped launch our wines to the wider UK community.

Terry Dunleavy describes John as such; “Among the ‘foreigners’ who helped us get to where we are as a billion-dollar plus export industry, he deserves to be ranked with Romeo Bragato, Dr Helmut Becker and Dr Richard Smart.”

John Avery will be remembered fondly by anyone who met him, for his enthusiasm, generosity and strong values. He is someone the New Zealand wine industry will be forever indebted to.

cjones@nautilusestate.com Richard Rose: kvl@silkweb.net.nz Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz

TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com

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Met Report Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – March 2012 March 2012

March 2012 compared to LTA

March LTA

Period of LTA

March 2011

GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ Month – Mean²

153.9 157.8

77% 81%

199.4 195.6

(1996-2010) (1996-2010)

191.8 190.0

Growing Degree Days Total Jul 11 - Mar 12 – Max/Min Jul 11 - Mar 12 – Mean

1060.4 1106.5

88% 90%

1205.0 1235.3

(1996-2010) (1996-2010)

1278.8 1280.2

20.3 9.6 15.0 15.0

-1.2°C -0.9°C -1.0°C -1.2°C

21.5 10.5 16.0 16.2

(1986-2010) (1986-2010) (1986-2010) (1932-2000)

21.9 10.5 16.2 16.2

Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C)

0

1 less

1.0 0.19

(1932-1980) (1986-2010)

0

Air Frosts

0

-

0.1 0.0

(1932-1980) (1986-2010)

0

Sunshine hours Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2012

192.5

89.5% 84.9%

(1930-2000) 1980 1969 (1930-2000)

229.0

596.8

215 146.7 281.0 703

Rainfall (mm) Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2012

58.6

127% 86.6%

(1930-2000) 1969 1979 (1930-2000)

30.6

122.2

46 2.8 118.0 141

Evapotranspiration – mm

101.2

101%

100.2

(1996-2011)

110.6

Avg. Daily Windrun (km)

231.0

88%

261.3

(1996-2011)

221.2

Mean soil temp – 10cm

14.0

-1.6°C

15.6

(1986-2011)

15.6

Mean soil temp – 30cm

16.7

-1.4°C

18.1

(1986-2011)

18.2

Mean Maximum (°C) Mean Minimum (°C) Mean Temp (°C) Mean Temp (°C)

(0.0°C)

675.7

82.6

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Frosts Temperature No ground or air frosts were recorded The first and fourth weeks of March in March 2012. The data for the past 20112 were cold, with temperatures well below the long-term average (1986-2011) 26 years (1986-2011) indicates that (Table 2). The second week of March was Blenheim has experienced a ground frost in March about one year in five. However, also below average. However, the third this is biased by the three years 1992 to week of March was 0.9°C above average 1994 when frosts were recorded each with some warm days and nights.

Table 2: Weekly temperatures in March 2012 compared to the long-term monthly average March 2012 by week 1st – 8th 9th –16th 17th – 24th 25th – 31st Long-term average

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Mean and deviation from LTA (°C) 13.7 -2.3 15.2 -0.8 17.1 +1.1 13.8 -2.2 16.0

Mean maximum and deviation from LTA (°C) 18.4 -3.1 20.8 -0.8 22.0 +0.5 20.0 -1.5 21.5

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Mean minimum and deviation from LTA (°C) 9.1 -1.4 9.5 -1.0 12.1 +1.6 7.6 -2.9 10.5

year. Blenheim has not experienced a ground frost in March since 2004. The 26th March 2012 came close, with a ground temperature of -0.1°C. The temperature has to be -1.0°C or below to record a ground frost.

Blenheim has not recorded an air frost in March since 1949, when two were recorded. However, before I receive howls of protest, let me point out that as the Blenheim weather station site is at the eastern side of the vineyard area it is warmer than all the other vineyard weather station sites that we monitor on the Wairau plains that are further from the coast.

The Blenheim weather station has averaged 1.3 ground frosts and 0.2 air frosts in April over the period 19862011. It has been a few years since Marlborough has suffered any extensive autumn frost damage while grapes were still on the vine. Anzac day 2005 will probably come to mind for many people.

Let us hope that 2012 is not such a year.

However, with the 2012 harvest being very late, the risk of the grapes being frosted while still on the vine is higher than normal.

Figure 1: Frost damage to Sauvignon blanc vines on 25 April 2005, just prior to harvest

Figure 3: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average Growing Degree Day summation starting from 1 September

of 2012. Whakatane is also 41.6 hours ahead of Blenheim. Whakatane recorded 233.9 hours sunshine in March, Nelson 211.6 and Blenheim 192.5.

Table 3: Blenheim sunshine hours over the summer of 2011/2012 compared to the long-term average December

167.4 = 83rd of 83 Lowest on record

261

270.7 = 33rd of 83

February

227

133.6 = 83rd of 83 Lowest on record

215

192.5 = 71st of 83

Jan to Feb

Sunshine March 2012 continued the trend of the summer months with well below average sunshine hours. The March sunshine total was the lowest on record for Blenheim since 1987 (lowest in the past 25 years).

The first half of March continued with the very overcast conditions that had been experienced in February. The sunshine Growing degree-days total for the first 15 days of March was As indicated in Winepress last month only 71.3 hours. Had that overcast the current season is the coolest since weather continued for the rest of the 1996/1997. The average temperature for month then March would have followed the seven months September 2011 to in February’s footsteps and recorded its March 2012 was 14.8°C, the same as in lowest total on record. Fortunately the 1996/1997; 0.5°C below the long-term sun emerged in the latter two weeks of average of 15.3°C. March and 121.3 hours was recorded from 16th to 31st; Figure 2: Blenheim soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) under a or 7.58 hours per mown grass surface with no irrigation. day, which was above the long-term average.

Unfortunately Blenheim’s run to reclaim the sunniest town in New Zealand title has made a disastrous start in 2012. At the end of March, Nelson is 68.9 hours ahead of Blenheim for the first three months

2011/2012 and rank

246

January

March

Soil temperature Soil temperatures were also well below average for March 2012 as a result of lower air temperatures and solar radiation. However, the soil temperatures were still well above critical temperatures at which pasture growth would slow down or stop.

LTA

Total 486.8

404.3 = 79th of 83

Jan to March Total 705.8

596.8 = 81st of 83

Dec to Feb

Total 732.7

571.7 = 82nd of 82 Lowest on record

Dec to March Total 951.7

764.2 = 82nd of 82 Lowest on record

Rainfall Almost all of March’s rainfall of 58.6 mm was received on two days; 2nd with 28.0 mm and 21st with 23.4 mm. Total rainfall for January to March 2012 is 122.2 mm compared to the long-term average of 141 mm. 2012 is about 40 mm ahead of both 2011 (82.6 mm) and 2010 (79.8 mm).

Soil moisture Rain on the 2nd and 21st March kept the shallow soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) about 10% above average (Figure 2); 28.3% compared to the long-term average for March of 18.6%.

Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research

The Met Report was brought to you by

NZ Owned & Operated

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Marketing Matters A Letter to the Prime Minsiter. where a special license is currently

Dear Prime Minister,

for cellar door operations as being a

Thank you for taking the time to visit

low risk and a unique sales category.

Marlborough on 1st March and to review

Estimates of sales volumes are as low

• The wish for excise to be removed from

our tourism sector during your visit to

as 12 – 18 bottles of wine per week at

wines that are used as sample stock at

the Blenheim I-Site and Omaka Aviation

small cellar doors. Furthermore most

a cellar door for legitimate education

Heritage Centre.

operators would acknowledge their

and promotional reasons – perhaps up

I mentioned briefly some of the below to

cellar door business is break-even at

your press secretary during the above

best

component of your day but wanted to

• The ARB will entitle a full cost recovery

required

to a limit per annum • There is the serious possibility of cellar doors closing if the ARB does not

address the potential impacts the Alcohol

model for local licensing authorities

take in any of the above with adverse

Reform Bill (ARB) will have in this region

and see dramatic increases in

consequences for both employment

around wine tourism and cellar door

administration costs as a result of

operations in Marlborough.

local alcohol plans. These two factors

We do not believe any of the above

Wine and tourism are closely linked in

will not be offset by so-called “risk

would lead to harmful consumption and

this region and the potential for licensing

based fee structures” and instead

instead these points are motivated by

costs to sky-rocket under the new

dramatically increase compliance

the fear of rising administrative costs, a

legislation is one that could force the

costs and significantly impact on cellar

narrow definition of off licenses and their

closure of many of this region’s cellar

door viability

impacts on regional tourism.

doors. Cellar Doors are a significant

• In the ARB, cellar doors have the

and tourism in the Marlborough region

I hope the above has given you further

regional employer, with 43 currently

same requirements to abide by as a

awareness of these issues and I welcome

operating. These cellar doors play

licensee potentially selling vastly more

any feedback or dialogue.

a major role in tourism here in New

alcohol (of any type). For example, it

Yours faithfully,

Zealand’s largest wine region.

would be ideal if manager’s certificates

Marcus Pickens

The largest share of cellar door operators

requirements could be altered to reflect

(reflecting the industry overall) are owner/

the low risk environment cellar doors

operator small wineries. Many of them rely heavily on sales directly over the

operate in • The ARB makes no provision for

counter, predominantly to wine tourists,

extending the licence term for the

where they make realistic margins,

cellar door category so any increased

engage with customers directly and sell

licensing costs could be offset over

the region and country with their stories

a longer time period. Also there is

of farming the land and making wines we

no consideration of extending the

are world famous for.

activities that a cellar door off premise

Our points of concern can be listed as

license permits them to undertake,

follows;

such as selling wines at small regional

• The ARB doesn’t make any provision

events such as a local farmers market

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Marlborough’s Organic Focus Vineyard TESSA NICHOLSON

Wither Hills is one of three vineyards taking part in the national Organic Focus Vineyard project, funded by the Sustainable Farming Fund and New Zealand Winegrowers.

Announced last year, Wither Hills

pruned to 2 cane VSP, with a planting

occurrence in conversion blocks, but is

Vineyards is the Marlborough component

density of 2525 vines/hectare. (The

likely to be temporary as the vines dig

of the project, with Mission Estate in

organic Pinot Noir has been under this

deeper into the soil profile.)

Hawkes Bay and Gibbston Valley Wines

management programme for nearly two

In terms of the Sauvignon Blanc, the

in Central Otago the other two. One of the

years.)

canopy growth in the organic block

goals is to provide realistic information,

The Sauvignon Blanc sites are both 1.73

was less than in the conventional, but

whilst educating industry members

hectares, planted in 1999, and pruned to

the fruit maturity was on a par. Berry

keen to know more about the process of

4 cane VSP with planting density again of

samples taken just prior to the field

organics.

2525 vines/hectare.

day, showed no noticeable difference

At each focus vineyard site, an organic

Viticultural Technician Jacqueline

between conventional and organic in

block is being compared, side by

Maclaurin is managing the project at

the Sauvignon Blanc. But there was a

side, to a conventional vineyard block

Wither Hills and has been behind the

three brix difference in the Pinot Noir,

growing the same grape varieties. Vine

three field days held at the vineyard since

with the organic being further behind.

and soil health, harvest yields and

the project was announced.

(The exact opposite has been the case

vineyard operating costs are being

At the latest event, (held at the end of

in Hawkes Bay at Mission Estate, with

monitored throughout the three year

February,) she delivered some of the

the organic block being ahead in terms

project, to provide a direct comparison

latest results, emphasising how the

of soluble solids, when compared with

between conventional and organic

findings are only preliminary at this stage.

the conventional. The Marlborough

growing regimes. Each year wine will

Scientific results will come at a later date.

results may have more to do with weather

be made from the trial blocks, with a

“In the Pinot Noir the organically

conditions or site.)

scientific comparison of the wines being

managed block has been behind the

The slower growth in the Pinot organic

undertaken in the final year.

conventional block from bud burst

block, did throw up a number of

In the case of Marlborough, Wither Hills

through to veraison. I believe that the

positives, Jacqueline says.

Vineyards are comparing Pinot Noir

under vine weeding may have had an

“In terms of leaf plucking, the

and Sauvignon Blanc on the company’s

impact on the growth rate – having done

conventional Pinot Noir has had two

Taylor River vineyard. Both the organic

four passes with the scallop edged

machine passes (Collard and Gregoire)

and conventional Pinot Noir blocks are

mounding disc cutting the surface

and one hand pluck. The organic Pinot

just over 2 hectares, planted in 2008 and

feeder roots.” (This is not an uncommon

Noir has only had a light Collard pass,

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due to the light canopy growth which has

This season’s canopy spray programme

Jacqueline will continue to monitor fruit

also followed onto no canopy trimming

is a reflection of Wither Hills’ stringent

and comparing organic and conventional

needing to be done this season. In

management strategy. Jacqueline says

harvest dates alongside berry weights,

the Sauvignon Blanc, leaf plucking

they have chosen to use sprays which

brix, pH and TA.

was the same with both organic and

may be slightly more expensive, but are

There will be a further field day in winter,

conventional undergoing one Collard and

known to be effective.

when the costs of both regimes will be

two Hills passes. In terms of trimming

“For example we have chosen to use

available and ready to be presented.

the organic block had only one trim and

Serenade Max for botrytis control over

Tim Jenkins who has been monitoring

the conventional Sauvignon Blanc three.

the flowering period and pre-bunch

each site for soil effects – water, structure

(This is something that showed up in

closure in our organic blocks and Switch

and biodiversity will present his results.

Hawkes Bay’s trial block last year, with

at flowering and pre-bunch closure in the

Fruition will also present findings from

the organic blocks

their monitoring of

requiring less

soil moisture, pest

trimming than the

and disease levels

conventional.)

and nutrient levels in

“Under organic

soil, leaf and petiole

management we

samples.

have chosen to

In the meantime,

use an undervine

Jacqueline is keen

weeder, and in

to hear from anyone

a season such

who has attended

as this year, with

the recent field

a high rainfall in

days, about what

December, we have

information they

done more passes

are keen to receive

than we would have

regarding the

hoped. But that

project.

was a necessity to control the weeds

“The field days are Wither Hills Taylor River Vineyard, part of the Organic Focus programme.

under vine and

an important part of the project, we want

make certain vineyard tasks such as bud

conventional blocks. Through our own

as many people to continue attending

rubbing easier whilst reducing any further

company pest and disease monitoring

as possible. But we want to be able to

competition with the vines.

during the season we have also sprayed

deliver what it is people want or need. So

in response to disease threshold levels

I am keen to hear what it is people would

passes with the scallop edged mounding

reached. We have set the thresholds and

like to see presented.”

disc to date and is likely to get one more

so have kept a tight spray programme

with the blades to cut down the mound

for powdery mildew cover in response

and dislodge any further weeds. When

to this – a cover spray, typically Kumulus

we did the first pass with the disk each

and Protector every 10 – 14 days or

For regular updates on the three Organic

row was driven twice to break up the soil

extending this out when the weather

Focus Vineyard projects, visit: http://

that has been compacted on the edge

allows. With downy mildew showing up in

organicfocusvineyard.com

of the wheel tracks over the past 11 – 12

Marlborough in January, we have put on

years.”

further cover sprays such as Copper.”

“The Sauvignon Blanc has had three

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

To contact Jacqueline, email her at: Jacqueline@witherhills.co.nz

Tony Laithwaite TESSA NICHOLSON

The co owner of one of the world’s largest specialist home delivery wine services, Tony Laithwaite is one of the greats of the modern wine industry, and recently visited Marlborough.

The Laithwaite story began back in 1968, when as a young under graduate with a passion for the image of a French harvest, Tony headed to Bordeaux to clean bottles in a small winery. He fell in love with more than the image of a vintage, as the wines themselves began to weave their magic around him. Before long he was bringing cases of Bordeaux back to England in his van to sell to unknown customers. Utilising the phone book he rang potential clients, inviting them to a tasting and quickly established a system of sending letters out to clients who may be interested in purchasing wine. Before long his van wasn’t big enough to cater for the demand and he established Bordeaux Direct and opened his first wine warehouse, “under a railway arch, in Windsor.”

Bordeaux Direct was the beginnings of an empire, now known as Laithwaite Wines, which sells to more than one million customers, owns wine bars and shops throughout the world, has a turnover in excess of £250m, and employs more than 1000 people. Tony and wife Barbara also own a number of vineyards in Bordeaux and England.

He credits the huge success, to the partnership formed between himself and the Sunday Times newspaper, back in 1973. That allowed him to have a regular column in the paper, which at the time was read by 4 million, well educated, higher income people. The columns

were also a means of establishing the Sunday Times Wine Club, where readers were offered the chance to purchase a dozen wines, as chosen by Tony. It was an instant success and still runs today, nearly 40 years later. (It is in fact unique and the longest running wine syndication in the world, and has expanded out to include the Wall Street Journal and The Australian.) The huge success led directly to establishment of the Sunday Times Vintage Festival, where thousands of club members were able to taste a carefully selected range of wines from around the world. It has to be remembered that at this stage, 30 years ago, the UK was dominated by European wines, with the new world yet to make its mark. Tony was determined to change that, and constantly travelled to try wines from emerging producers.

He has clear memories of his first visits to New Zealand, in the early 80s, where he had to drink wine rather surreptitiously out of tea cups as it was an unaccepted form of alcohol.

It was on one of these visits that he was first introduced to Marlborough and was taken by the wines of Ernie Hunter.

Selecting three to take part in the Festival was the beginning of the UK’s love affair with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. (See Box page 11.)

He describes those early shows as some of the most exciting ever.

“That was a period of great discovery

and it was us that was doing that. We were educating people with offers of new wines from say New Zealand, Australia, Chile or Bulgaria. It was the first time anyone had done that. Supermarkets were right behind us though. Being pre internet, they didn’t have a great way of communicating to customers, the newspapers were the only way. So we were like the pathfinders and they funded behind us and ramped up the sales tremendously.”

The impact was felt the most by traditional European producers, with the end result being better wine all round.

“The Europeans having been knocked for six by the new world are hitting back.

They have changed a lot. Take Italy for example. When I started 40 years ago, Italy wasn’t in great shape wine wise.

There were a few known wine names, but most of them weren’t particularly good and people tended to drink them only because of nostalgia. I found it almost impossible to sell Italian wines. Then they started trying to improve as appellation control started coming in and they are now punching above their weight. Spain also has revolutionised itself. Even Bordeaux has pulled its socks up. They used to rely on their famous name but they can’t do that any more. And other countries are beginning to pop their heads up. The new world wines have created that change.”

There have been other changes too,

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which have come about because of the impact of new producers. Tony says the theory that people will stick to one variety all their lives, is no longer true.

“I think consumers are looking for more interest in terms of variety and this generation in particular is much more prepared to try the unusual. In the past chaps would drink Claret from cradle to grave, and probably the same one, quite happily. Now they want excitement and something a little different. But having said that, they can still be quite cautious.

They want to know that they will like it and we have to work hard to get them trying something very different. But at least they are trying it.”

He says there is also a move away from heavy, high alcohol wines.

“People are realising that if they drink a bottle of 15%, (alcohol) they can hardly walk. There is a very clear move to going back to wines of 12% or 13%.”

Which in terms of Marlborough is an opening that could well be exploited.

In terms of whether New Zealand should follow the European tradition of

appellation control, Tony is in two minds.

“You want to be very careful. Yes in as much as it wouldn’t do any harm to make people know there are alternatives to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, like Nelson or Hawkes Bay. But at the same time, in France even though it was done a long time ago, appellation was often done very badly. It allows winemakers in areas with a good appellation to be lazy and coast. That concerns me. You see a lot of wines at the top end of a wine list in a restaurant, that people will buy for a special occasion and it doesn’t taste any better than the cheap end of the wine list.

That happens all the time, because it is a famous name. I think there is a lot to be said, that you rise and fall on your own name and you defend it. You therefore are under pressure every vintage to make the best possible wine, because you don’t want your business to suffer.

“The trouble is if appellation is done wrongly and it has been done wrongly, people can get away with murder. I remember Henry, (Tony’s son who is a winemaker in Bordeaux) had the

Tony

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appellation controllers come round tasting all the wines. They tasted everything including a barrel of rejects, the dregs of the barrels. Henry didn’t mean them to taste that, but they did and they passed it. What does that say about appellation control?”

For someone who has been there since the beginning of the Marlborough wine revolution, Tony believes the potential of a under supply this year could be our saving grace.

“New Zealand is quite outstanding in all the wine nations of the world, in that your prices are so high. All the others are battling it out down low. You have been able to sit there quite smugly and say you are premium price. But then you get idiots going and planting far too much stuff and not in suitable areas. And we started to get some cheap wines in supermarkets and quite frankly it wasn’t very good. You need people to know they can totally rely on a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as being fantastic. So you have to keep doing what you do really well, but don’t push it too far.”

Photo Jim Tannock

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

There have been many people who have helped forge the

deemed the favourite wine of the show by three groups of

career of Marlborough wines. People like John Avery, Oz

Wine Club members who had attended. That in itself was

Clarke and Hugh Johnson, have all played major roles. But

another first – no other wine had ever been selected as the

perhaps the one person this region needs to give thanks

winner, by three separate groups.

to, is Tony Laithwaite, It was this man, who in 1986 gave an

The Fume Blanc was included in the Sunday Times Wine

unknown Ernie Hunter from Marlborough, the opportunity to

Dozen offered to club members via mail order. Plus Ernie

submit three wines to the Sunday Times Vintage Festival, in

was allowed for the first time ever, to promote all his

London. The Hunter’s wines were three of 350 pre-selected

Marlborough wines to club members, with his introductory

wines in the competition, representing 13 countries.

offer prefaced by Hugh Johnson.

It was a first for a New Zealand wine to be allowed to

Tony says it was the beginning of the Marlborough revolution,

take part in the competition and Laithwaite’s faith was

which was quickly followed by other producers, including

well rewarded. The Hunter’s Fume Blanc 1985, (oak aged

Montana and Cloudy Bay. The UK consumer palate was

Sauvignon Blanc) took out the gold medal for best non-

piqued and since then Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has

Chardonnay full dry white wine of the show. It was also

been a major hit.

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11

International Cool Climate Symposium MIKE TROUGHT AND BRIAN JORDAN

The 8th ICCS was held in Tasmania at the end of January. Among the many New Zealanders who took part were Mike Trought from Plant and Food in Marlborough and Brian Jordan from Lincoln University.

As always, the programme started with a

provides the complexity of flavour and

Destemming and then crushing fruit

discussion on “how do you define a cool

aroma in wine. This raises the question,

before fermentation caused an eight-fold

climate viticulture region?” Defining a

‘If the fruit is too uniform, it may be

increase in wine thiol concentrations.

cool climate region is a little like defining

boring?’” However, he commented that

Freezing the juice pre-fermentation

pornography: everyone recognises it

variation must be managed, and the

had little effect on thiols but resulted in

when seen, but it is difficult to quantify

principal source of variation was likely

changes in the ester concentrations.

and describe. Jancis Robinson in her

to be between bunches and this could

While freezing juice may not be winery

opening address suggested that cool

possibly be a reflection of differences in

practice, it is frequently used by

climate regions could be defined as;

primordia development at initiation, some

researchers to spread out workload. It is

“Those that have lower alcohol, are

15 months before harvest.

therefore important to know the effect it

refreshing and easier to match with food.

Tasmanian researchers Anna Carew and

may have on wine composition.

I want a wine that refreshes me. While

Bob Dambergs discussed the use of

Four papers investigating various aspects

the American mass market wants high

alternative yeast strains and maceration

of sparkling wine production provided

alcohol, turbo-charged wines, they are

methods on Pinot Noir production. The

an interesting discussion on alternative

steadily moving to refreshing cool climate

Tasmanian researchers and industry

processing methods, and in particular

wines. The international industry is

are very focused on Pinot Noir . With a

how regions like Champagne may

responding to this by planting vineyards

total grape production of only 10,000 T,

have to face up to the consequences

in cooler regions,” and she cited

most locally-made wine (about 80%) is

of climate change. Champagne has

Argentina and Chile as good examples

consumed within Tasmania. However,

played an integral part in French history

of countries planting vineyards further

there are obviously opportunities for

and legislation provides a degree of

south.

good collaboration between Tasmanian

protection to that identity. This is being

The first technical session focused on

and New Zealand researchers; we have

maintained in an ever-changing global

vineyard variability. Richard Smart,

similar challenges.

wine market and provides security to

as always, provided some thought-

Claire Grose, research winemaker at

that industry, often envied by other

provoking insight into sources of fruit

the Marlborough Wine Research Centre

wine regions of the world. How this is

variation in the vineyard. “Wine is a

described research undertaken on

maintained in the face of changes in the

mixture of non-homogeneous grapes,

the influence of fruit processing on

ripening patterns of fruit will only become

which when managed within reason

Sauvignon Blanc wine composition.

clear in time.

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

10mm 20

50

Peter Dry, well known to the wine industry, described some alternative varieties that may be suitable for cooler climates.

60

He commented on the limited range of commercial varieties

70

being used at present and how alternative varieties may provide a point of interest and lower alcohol concentrations to a wine portfolio. For example, he suggested that the Italian varieties Greco, Perricone, Vermentino and the Austrian variety Grüner Veltliner may be particularly suitable for the Asian market, and Agiorgitiko (Greece), Corvina and Dolcetto (Italy) might be potential varieties to produce reduced-alcohol wines.

Ross Brown (Brown Brothers Vineyard) described how their

80 90 100 110 120

company had identified the medium and long-term threat of

Albariño

climate change to their wine portfolio and how, by investing in Tasmanian vineyards, they anticipated mitigating that threat early on. In particular, he described how consistency of supply and quality was important. He emphasised that; “Two good years in five is not sustainable and there is a need to monitor changes in fashion. The wine industry appears to have a 15year cycle, Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s, Chardonnay in the 1980s and Sauvignon Blanc in the late 1990s. The forces that drive change are predominantly technical, geographic and fashion change (consumer taste). Only the best of the best survive beyond 15 years”. He suggested that Pinot Noir “ticks the boxes” in terms of the next style, technical and geographic change, but the wines must be price-appropriate to gain consumer acceptance. He suggested that to achieve

NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST SELECTION OF CLASSIC VARIETIES & NEW IMPORTS

this, Tasmania was clearly an identifiable region and capable of being the finest in the Southern Hemisphere, but all producers must strive to achieve this goal. He introduced the term “coopertition” – co-operation with a common focus and pursuit of excellence.

Reflecting on the overall conference, what was particularly satisfying was the role and impact New Zealand researchers and industry played in the success of the conference. Fully

GO TO

www.riversun.co.nz 0800 11 37 47

50% of the oral presentations were from New Zealand-based scientists and industry. Of the 50 posters, 11 were from New Zealand, including “Predicting regional and sub-regional grapevine yields in Marlborough” by Mike Trought, which received the award of the “Best Poster”. As ICCS Project Officer Imogen Fullagar commented, “We were quite humbled by the outstanding New Zealand support. Notwithstanding my being a big New Zealand fan, New Zealand participated with every enthusiasm and was represented in bright flashing lights that delegates really could not fail to notice.”

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Simon Bishell Caythorpe

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Generation Y-ine

BY TESSA NICHOLSON

Simon Bishell If there is one thing that Simon Bishell

Caythorpe is 191 hectares and these

stage had 30 hectares of grapes and it

will be forever grateful for, it’s that his

days 95 of those hectares are planted

was clear that was the direction for the

grandfather didn’t sell the family farm to

in vines. The first vines, 4 hectares of

farm’s future. I realised I had a fantastic

Montana back in 1973.

Bactobel Pinot Noir (for sparkling) were

opportunity here and with my love of

Now the fifth generation Bishell to be

planted in 1987. Another 4 hectares of

science, viticulture was a great way to

working on the Caythorpe property,

Sauvignon Blanc were planted a year

morph both together.”

Simon realises it could have all been very

later, all on their own rootstock. Those

Enrolled into the Lincoln Viticulture and

different if his grandfather had taken up

original savvy vines are still producing,

Oenology degree, Simon was never really

the initial offer. He says Caythorpe was

despite the phylloxera outbreak of the

swayed by the possibility of becoming a

the first parcel of land in Marlborough

90s.

winemaker. Being on the land was more

Montana approached to buy, but Mervyn

“Those vines produce some of the best

his cup of tea.

decided he wanted more money than the

flavour profiles of the entire vineyard,”

“I know that is strange, because I love

company was offering. Montana weren’t

Simon says.

science and chemistry. But to be really

prepared to pay and instead bought a

Despite the family tradition – Simon never

honest, in my younger days I didn’t

tract of land bordering on Caythorpe

had a yearning to become a man of the

have a palate to appreciate fine wines,

ensuring the mixed cropping and sheep

land. He was set on becoming a pilot,

which was part of the reason I swayed

farm stayed in the family.

but was told by an Airforce recruiter, that

away from the winemaking side of

“So I am very grateful to my grandfather

cadets were seldom taken straight from

things. Looking back that was not a valid

that he asked for more than they were

school. So he decided to come back to

reason, given how few people aged 18

prepared to pay per acre.”

the farm after school and bide his time

or 19 have any palate. I now know it’s

Even when the first grapes were planted

until he could apply. With high marks in

something that grows.

on the neighbouring property, there was

maths and sciences, he was accepted

“Also I had to do some practical work in

no indication the Bishell family would ever

into the Airforce select camp a year later

wineries during the degree and I have

follow suit. In fact Simon’s father Murray

– but missed out in the final selection.

to say I thoroughly enjoyed it. But it

is known to have stated; “There would

Which in hindsight was a positive, given

made me appreciate how much I liked

never be a day that he would see grapes

the Labour Government scrapped

working outside even more. It began to

planted on this property.”

the combat wing of the Airforce within

do my head in, working indoors, I really

Simon is eternally grateful that Murray

months of his rejection.

struggled.”

didn’t let that statement stop him from

“So it was onto plan B. What do I do now?

Gaining his Viticulture degree Simon

seeing the vineyard potential of the

I had loved science, so I began thinking

chose to continue studying for another

Fairhall land once prices for wheat and

about doing a degree at Canterbury. But

year, undertaking a Graduate Diploma in

barley dropped dramatically.

in the back of my mind, I kept thinking

Commerce.

– where to from there? The farm at that

“I always had the ambition and still do, to

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maybe one day do our own product. I like

a champion for lower yields.

Having entered it three times beginning

the thought of having total control over a

“We have to make sure we don’t treat

in 2006, he sees the competition as a

product, through the whole chain, from

wine grapes like a commodity. The longer

fantastic opportunity.

grapes to the wine. That was part of it,

people do that, the less there will be

“One thing I really enjoy is it gives

but then again maybe I also wasn’t ready

for future generations to enjoy. We do

viticulturists a chance to be recognised.

to enter the big working world again,” he

have a fantastic product and if we treat it

I see all the wine awards, apart from

jokes.

properly we will have a good income for

Bragato, where the credit always goes

While it was a far cry from his love of

to the winemaker. There’s nothing

outdoors and sciences, Simon feels

wrong with that. But it’s nice to see

the commerce degree opened his eyes to the world of business and the challenges involved.

By December 2004, he was back, full time on the farm, working alongside his father and older brother Scott.

Both siblings had already planted out their own vineyards at Caythorpe, and gained supply contracts. It was an opportunity not many young vitiuclturists have and Simon says it provided him with first hand experience at the coal face of the industry. Those early years were the golden ones, when companies

“The farm at that stage had 30 hectares of grapes and it was clear that was the direction for the farm’s future. I realised I had a fantastic opportunity here.”

the person responsible for getting the best fruit, is also acknowledged.

And let’s be honest, in my age group viticulture is not seen to be the most fashionable occupation, as opposed to winemaking.

“So that was one reason I entered the competition. But I’m also the type of person who likes to challenge myself, and the competition certainly challenged me.”

In his first year he gained third place, behind Marcus Wickham and Nigel Sowman. Second year he was runner up, behind Sowman and in his third

couldn’t get enough grapes to meet

year he took out the Marlborough

their orders. But that all changed

title. Every year, he felt he gained

in 2009/2010. The price paid for fruit

many years to come.”

something new.

dropped dramatically and people were

The cyclic ups and downs are nothing

“Often in this job, we know what our

trying to get their head around the fact

new to the Bishell family. Every single one

strengths are, because those are the

they could no longer grow as much as

of the five generations to farm the land

things we love doing. But it’s not until

they liked, Simon included.

has seen similar cycles and Simon is

you enter a competition like the Young

“We went for so long where wineries

pretty philosophical about the future.

Viticulturist that you are faced with

would effectively take every last grape

“It’s happened to every other horticulture/

everything that encompasses the growing

you could produce and essentially

agriculture boom in New Zealand, so it’s

of grapes. Not just the theoretical side

overnight that whole psyche went out the

nothing new. For us as a family, we aren’t

of things, but the practical and financial

window. It took me a while to get my head

in this for the short term, we are here for

side. It really pushes your knowledge. A

around it, but I realised if I still wanted

the long haul so we just have to ride it out

lot of people in my shoes might be good

a future here for the next generation,

and cope the best we can.”

at six out of the eight disciplines, but not

then I had to concentrate on quality, not

In recent years Simon has been one

the other two. It wasn’t until I entered the

quantity.”

of the stalwarts of the local Young

first time that I realised what areas I was

Those years of oversupply has made him

Viticulturist of the Year competition.

really poor at.”

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

One of those areas that showed up

I wasn’t the only one who felt way out of

know that we have done all we can for

his own deficiencies was the pruning

my depth.”

the best quality and the rest we have no

module. Simon says while he was used

Pushed by the Hawkes Bay competitor,

control over.”

to pruning, he realised he wasn’t as

Simon says he was never totally confident

As a fifth generation farmer, Simon

knowledgeable about the finer technical

of winning.

feels very privileged. As he has thrown

points as he could be.

“But he got announced in second place

himself into the world of viticulture, he

“That was because everything was

and I thought then that I could have been

is constantly reminded that it is his

driven by getting as much fruit as you

in with a sniff. I was pretty excited, I can

fore fathers that have given him that

could supply, so it was four canes and

tell you.”

opportunity.

fill her up. So consequently I had never

While he didn’t manage the trifecta

“Following a family tradition is an honour.

had to learn too much about the science

of taking out the Young Horticulturist

This property has been in my family for

of it. Plus I had never actually travelled

competition, he did pick up the

132 years. I want it to still be there in

in terms of a work sense and I had no

Commerce award (for an idea of using

another 132.”

experience of how limiting the number

grape marc to create biofuel) and the

of buds for quality fruit was paramount. I

speech award.

had only worked here in Marlborough and

Since then Simon has been on

only knew the Marlborough way – which

the organising committee for the

at that time was grow as much as you

Marlborough competition and is keen to

can. So that was something that I came

see more young people take part.

away with knowing I needed to work on.”

“Seriously you can never improve if

By 2008, Simon had more years under

you don’t identify the areas where

his belt, more experience and was more

you are weak. This competition helps

than prepared for whatever the local

you find those areas. It is an amazing

competition organisers could throw at

opportunity.”

him.

Despite the relatively short time frame

“I felt confident, but you never know what

Simon has been involved in the industry,

the day can throw at you.”

he believes he has seen the best and the

Winning the local competition, meant

worst. He rates the 2006 vintage as the

he then had to prepare for the National

best ever.

Viticulturist, which was a big step up.

“It was all over by the end of March. The

“The first module was an irrigation,

fruit was clean, there was no disease

water management module. We had 45

threat and everything went smoothly.

minutes to complete it and I think I only

Nothing relieves stress like an early

completed a third of it. The questions

vintage.”

were basically pitched at people with

In that case, I joke he must be under

a degree in engineering. I walked out

a little stress currently, given how

of that first module thinking, “I’m done,

much later this year’s vintage is, when

it’s over. There’s no way I can win this

compared with the previous few years.

competition now.” But then I got to

“No, I’m not worried, I’m an optimist.

discuss with the other competitors what

There is nothing we can do from now on,

they felt about that module, and I realised

that will affect fruit maturity. We have to

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Wine Visitor TESSA NICHOLSON

Canadian buyer Jim Jaworski is impressed with Marlborough’s Pinots.

Jim is the President of Kenaston Wine

$40 range that are really good. There are

Kenaston Wine Market being one. There

Market, based in Manitoba – a province

a lot at around $30, which to me is the

are limitations though, as they can sell

of just over 1.3 million people, with the

sweet spot.”

wine, but only wine. There is no ability

largest city of Winnipeg being the 8th

He said many of the Marlborough Pinots

to sell beer or spirits. And in Manitoba

largest in Canada.

he tried at a Wine Marlborough tasting,

and eight other provinces in Canada,

Jim’s visit to New Zealand last month

had nice mid weight and a lot of colour,

supermarkets are not allowed to sell

was his first ever, and he said he was

and described them as having good fruit,

alcohol of any sort.

expecting to see quality Sauvignon

without being over powering. “They fit

Dealing with a buyer who has a private

Blanc, but wasn’t prepared for the

the profile that the Canadian market is

license is certainly the way to go, he

number of other varieties that make up

looking for.”

said, as they deal directly with the winery,

this country’s portfolio.

While travelling round New Zealand,

rather than with agents, importers and

“People love good wines and they are

Jim was also impressed with Syrahs in

distributors. That can be very appealing

always clamouring for something new

Waiheke and Hawkes Bay, and some

to smaller wineries.

and exciting,” he said. “And based on

of the aromatics here in Marlborough,

“That is where we offer something very

what I have seen so far, this country

particularly Gewurztraminer. However he

different. We are not looking for huge

has some incredibly new and exciting

felt the Pinot Gris “were all over the map. I

volumes, instead we would prefer to take

products in the pipeline, that once they

think you are still trying to find your place

smaller parcels, which gives a winery

get distributed out to the world more

with this variety.” Riesling he said is not

international exposure without them

substantially, is going to wake a lot of

an easy sell in Canada and Chardonnay

having to lose their entire stock. Our

people up.”

is still trying to remerge from the ABC

market is mid to top end, and we supply

In particular, Jim believed Marlborough

image of a decade ago. Sauvignon Blanc

a number of high end restaurants.”

Pinot Noir was a very good fit for his

though was a very popular wine and he

While still a small importer of New

market in Manitoba.

said it was impressive to see the range of

Zealand wine, the growth in Canada is

“Currently we have some real low end

styles now emerging in Marlborough.

impressive. In 2008, 3.558 million litres

Pinot Noirs, which are probably coming

But exporting to Canada can be trying.

of wine was exported to that part of the

from Chile and California. Some are

Each of the ten provinces has different

world. The latest figures from NZW show

drinkable, but they are not all that exciting

rules, but Jim said the one thing they all

that has increased to 5.738 million litres

or faithful to their varietal character. Then

have in common is the Liquor Boards,

in 2011.

beyond that you are into the French

which are government entities. They

Burgundies and higher end California

have the only legal jurisdiction to import

Pinots. But most of those wines tend to

alcoholic beverages. However in some

be $40 and up. So we have the cheapies

provinces, such as Manitoba, there is a

and then the high end. I think where

private sector that has been licensed to

Marlborough specifically fits, is there are

re-sell alcohol. Only six private licenses

a bunch of Pinots between that $20 and

have been granted in Manitoba, with

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Straw Wine TESSA NICHOLSON

Is the creation of a straw wine in Marlborough innovative or traditional?

It’s a bit of a conundrum how to describe

grapes had reached between 36 and 39

received rave reviews, as wine that is;

the first release from newly formed wine

brix.”

“Sweet and concentrated, yet not cloying

company Eureka, given the process of

While the brix levels rose, the acid, pH

because the natural acidity of the grapes

making Straw Wine isn’t new, in fact it’s

and TA remained the same as when first

ensures a fresh, lively citrusy finish.”

hundreds of years old. Yet the production

picked. After five weeks, the fruit was

(From wine reviewer Sue Courtney.)

is one that has rarely been seen in this

then de stemmed and soaked in its own

Eureka is a new wine company,

part of the wine making world.

juice for 24 hours. Then it was fermented,

with just two wines in its current

Eureka owners Stephen Rae and Hugh

half in American oak, the other half in

portfolio. The Straw Wine Marlborough

Girling are not the first New Zealanders to

French oak. It was finally bottled five

Sauvignon Blanc and the Marlborough

utilise the traditional straw wine method,

months later.

Gewurztraminer, both 2011. Both Rae

but they could well be the only ones

The very limited wine has already

and Girling are adamant they want to

currently using it.

create wines that stand out and fit

The wine’s name relates to the

the company’s name.

way the fruit is treated. Bunches

The success of their initial

of Sauvignon Blanc were carefully

Straw Wine Sauvignon Blanc

hand picked at 21 brix, and

has now got them thinking

placed into bins in single layers.

about what other varieties could

Each bunch had to be as pristine

be processed in this age old

as possible, to ensure no berries

tradition. Pinot Noir is one they are

harboured botrytis potential.

hopeful of making this year.

After hand picking the bunches

“We would like to trial as many

were then laid out on beds of

different varieties as we can,

straw inside a glass house to

Girling said. “We are also looking

provide a stable environment

at making a straw Pinot Gris, as

and left to dry for five weeks. The

well as a standard Pinot Gris, then

straw, which is anti microbial,

we might try a partial combination.

provides a moisture absorbing

Not everything we do will work,

surface, while also allowing air

we realise that. But we want to

circulation around the bunches.

experiment, be innovative, and

“Basically in that five weeks

see where it takes us.”

the grapes begin to resemble

“But at the same time we don’t

sultanas, although they retain their

want people to think we are being

original colour,” winemaker Girling

radical for the sake of it, said Rae. “What we want is to push the

said. “We picked at between 21 and 23 brix, but after drying the

A single layer of bunches are laid out on straw to dry.

boundaries.”

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Respected Company Man Heads South TESSA NICHOLSON

Brancott Estate’s South Island Regional Manager, Peter McLeod is saying goodbye to the wine industry and hello to rebuilding Christchurch.

For someone who had no background

Many other local growers followed and

staff numbers and provide financial

in the wine industry, Peter McLeod has

within a short period of time he was

management.

certainly made a mark in Marlborough.

managing 180 growers based throughout

“I knew that cost control would be on

For many local growers, he was the face

New Zealand. Those were the heady

the radar in the corporate environment

of Montana, (now Pernod Ricard) during

days, when contracted fruit was fetching

and a large percentage of our operating

the early 2000s, as the company’s grower

between $2200 and $2500 a tonne. But

budget was spent on casual and contract

liaison manager.

it wasn’t always easy getting people on

labour. There was a huge supply/demand

It was a time of exponential growth

side, he recalls.

imbalance; given there was 2,000 to

for the company and industry overall.

“I had to drink lots of cups of tea and

3,000 hectares of vineyards going in

McLeod’s task was to increase the

there was a considerable amount of

each year. We were churning through 750

grower base, in line with the growth of

negotiation work involved. I guess

casual pruners a season and the average

the company’s markets. While he had

because there was always a slight

stay was about three to four weeks. So

never lived in Marlborough, (originating

distrust of a larger company.”

the vineyard managers were training

from Canterbury) he did have a sound

Following the buy out of Montana by

staff, and then it would start snowing

knowledge of the wine industry here and

Allied Domecq, Mike Insley left his role

in Central Otago and the staff would all

many of its growers. That came from his

as South Island Regional Manager, to

want to take off and go skiing.”

days as an agri business manager with

take up a role in California. McLeod was

Putting it into perspective, the company

Rabobank.

offered the job – and it was one that

was pruning over 4 million vines a year.

One of the first growers he signed up was

appealed to him.

McLeod says it was a hugely frustrating

Peter Yealands, whom he had worked

“I wanted to get experience in a large

period for the vineyard managers and

with through Rabobank during his deer

scale vineyard operation. And I had

a costly time for the company. In an

and forestry ventures at Kaiuma. McLeod

a hankering to get back to the South

effort to lure people to the job, Allied

had also been instrumental in assisting

Island.”

Domecq instigated the campaign entitled

Yealands in the purchase of his very first

But he wasn’t sure he had the skills to

“Wanted to Strip,” aimed at backpackers

vineyard property – at Grovetown.

take on that role. “I felt I had a good

and seasonal workers. It was highly

“It was a pretty scruffy property, but

business background but lacked

successful, but still didn’t overcome the

when Peter began talking about what

viticultural experience.” The powers

issue of transient workers who wanted to

he wanted to do with it, I could see the

that be convinced him there was plenty

move on once the ski season opened.

potential. He jokes with me now that him

of expertise on the ground, what was

It was around this time that the RSE

getting into the wine industry was all my

required though was someone who

system was emerging and McLeod knew

fault.”

could lead the business with the large

the company wasn’t in the position to

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provide pastoral care to

that moves the needle

the number of workers

in a large vineyard

they would require. So

operation.”

they sub-contracted

Given his task was

Seasonal Solutions,

to cut costs without

based out of Central

compromising quality,

Otago, to provide the

McLeod says he feels

RSE workers and the

he has achieved his

care. The impact of

goals. So now it’s time to

that scheme has been

move on to something

immense, he said.

else. Which will see

“In 2008 we brought

him moving back to

in 130 RSE workers.

Christchurch, where

They were unskilled

he has taken up the

and un-work ready, but

GJ Gardiner franchise.

we backed ourselves

Ironically prior to going

with our training

to university, he was a

and supervision

chippie, so it’s almost like

programmes to develop

going full circle for him,

their skill set. So in 2008

as he heads back to the

we invested in the RSE

building industry. Plus

scheme for future years.

there is the advantage

And it has paid off. This

of being a part of the

year, 2012, is our fifth

Christchurch rebuild,

year and we are getting

which he is looking

a 75% return rate of

forward to.

those workers. They are

Not that he won’t miss his

now well skilled and well

role up here.

adjusted workers that

“I am really going to miss

we know we have for

harvest. It’s the best time

the whole season.”

of the year. You watch the

took between 15 and 20 cents a vine out

That has provided Pernod Ricard with

of the company’s pruning costs straight

fruit grow for 12 months and there is an

continuity, plus it has cut the cost of

away. That was a significant amount

incredible sense of satisfaction seeing it

continually having to train new casual

of money when you multiply it by the

come into the winery. It’s a large logistical

staff. In hard times such as the industry

number of vines we mechanically pruned.

challenge and everyone is under the

has felt for the past few years, that cost

Right away we were able to take costs

pump – but it is also incredibly rewarding.

cutting is a vital aspect for any company’s

out, without compromising the quality of

If you don’t get a buzz out of harvest, you

profitability.

our viticultural operations.

shouldn’t be in the industry. I can tell you,

However good the RSE scheme has been

“Following that the Klima was developed

I will be suffering harvest withdrawal this

though, McLeod believes the greatest

by Marcus Wickham. That has again

year.”

thing to happen to the wine industry in

revolutionised how we go about

But given he will be commuting for a

Marlborough is mechanisation of pruning.

mechanisation of that manual labour of

few more weeks, chances are he will be

“The Langlois and more recently the

stripping. It has taken another 10 to 15

poking his head into the winery to ensure

Klima are two of the smartest things seen

cents off that price again. We have up

his work of the past 12 months, is not

in the industry in 20 years. The Langlois

to 35 cents off the original price, and

going astray.

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21

Markham’s Business Confidence Survey Adverse weather conditions, bulk wine sales, volatile exchange rates, and the vagaries of fruit supply and demand are all dealing blows to an already fragile wine industry.

Those are the results from the latest

the reduced vintage will create any

will take time to develop, there is an

Markham’s wine industry business

significant pricing comeback. Even with

optimism that such ventures will pay off in

confidence survey.

some industry players predicting lower

the longer term. Currently 47 percent of

“Trading conditions for the January

volumes for a further two seasons, the

respondents are exporting to China and

2012 quarter were actually worse than

fruit price is unlikely to rise to any great

Hong Kong, with 76 percent saying they

participants predicted when surveyed

degree, capped by the bulk wine strategy

are planning to export there in the next

in January 2011. There is little doubt

employed by many businesses still.

five years.

that the industry is facing tough

Bulk wine sales are also impacting on

Once again the biggest threat to the

times. This view is supported by the

profitability. “Bulk wine sales strategies

industry identified in the survey nationally

fact that less than half (43 percent)

are here to stay and we are seeing them

is the volatile and high exchange rate,

of survey participants expect trading

more often being used as an integral part

impacting export profitability. Although

conditions to improve in the coming 12

of a sales deal. Bulk wine is being used

many respondents remain positive about

months,” says Graeme Rhodes, national

as leverage, with wineries agreeing to

the opportunities new export markets

wine spokesperson of the chartered

supply in order to get their finished wines

may bring, some markets, particularly

accountancy group.

on supermarket shelves, particularly in

Europe and USA, were identified as

Whilst many wineries remain “carefully

export markets.”

becoming increasingly uncompetitive

optimistic” about the year ahead,

On a bright note, 44 percent of

due to the high New Zealand dollar.

nationally the poor weather conditions

respondents nationally are trading

On another note, there is a degree

have impacted on fruit volumes, with

profitably, up from the 38 percent that

of unrest throughout the industry

lower yields expected, particularly in

predicted they would be when surveyed

about some contract processors now

Marlborough. However the reduction

in January 2011. But with more than half

making and marketing their own wines,

in volume has had a positive effect with

of businesses surveyed reporting their

effectively competing against their winery

a number of grape growers without

business was not profitable due to being

customers. This situation may accelerate

contracts this year now being able to

in the early stages of development (26

the movement of mid-sized players to

secure supply contracts.

percent), margin pressure (14 percent),

merge and consolidate with others to

“For many growers with existing

pricing and increased costs (12 percent),

increase sales strength, and rationalise

agreements, the lower yields may mean a

and a lack of capital (12 percent), it is

distribution and infrastructure.

drop in income. The flip side is that some

clear that the difficult trading environment

growers are securing multiple year deals

remains.

The full survey report is available on the

from wineries to ensure continuity of

Asia is increasing in popularity as the

Markham’s website; www.markhams.

supply, which affords them a previously

export market with the most potential

co.nz

nebulous certainty of income,” Graeme

and, whilst it is acknowledged this market

says.

Nevertheless, it appears unlikely that 22

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Rejuvenating Wine Barrels For the first time in New Zealand, technology garnered in Australia is being utilized to rejuvenate wine barrels. Vintech Pacific says the technology can extend the life of a barrel by three years.

When you consider the cost of a new imported French oak barrique is around 800 euros per unit, extending the effective life of a previously past-its-usedby-date barrel makes good sense. Not only financially, but also environmentally.

The best figures available indicate that close to 10,000 new wine barrels are imported to New Zealand each year – and an unknown quantity of used barrels that have already reached the end of their useful wine making lives that could be refurbished and re-used.

Vintech Pacific has just introduced the patented, Australian barrel refurbishing technology under the brand Phoenix Diverse Barrrel Solutions. Through this technology, the life of a used barrel can be extended for up to three years. The Phoenix process is centred on computer scanning of each barrel followed by laser-guided cutting to remove the contaminated wood inside the barrel.

To ensure the contaminated oak is totally removed, each stave is scanned separately to build an accurate three -dimensional picture of the inside surface.

Following this digital map, a computercontrolled routing tool then cuts up to 8mm off the inside of the barrel to reveal clean oak.

Analysis has shown that Phoenix’s precision cutting removes all wine contaminants to expose clean wood while retaining most of the original French oak flavour characteristics.

So effective is the process that barrels previously containing red wine can be

used for the fermentation and maturation process. Barrels are returned to the client of white wines. winery containing 10 litres of sulphurAfter each barrel is checked, infrared citric solution and are pressure tested toasting to the wine makers specification before leaving the workshop. is applied using another new technology Over the last 12 months, 26 selected process which removes the risk of New Zealand wineries provided Vintech variation and blistering and allows the Pacific with used barrels to try out the winemakers a choice of toasting styles. new process as part of a trial programme, At the end of the process, the barrels are and the positive results led the company recrozed so that new, imported, toasted to go ahead with the development of a oak heads can be fitted which are then specialist Phoenix workshop at Spring custom-branded to meet individual Creek. wineries requirement. New heads are This service, until recently only available sourced from 24-month seasoned oak in Australia, is now in full swing in from Centre of France.

Marlborough.

Head loops are also rebranded with the winery name, original barrel type and age.

The process, while using state-of-theart technology, also sees the return to the wine industry of traditional coopering skills.

Exterior sanding and refurbishment, including Cellarguard antimould treatment, are optional extensions of the Phoenix process. General cooperage can be performed to repair or replace broken staves prior The computer-guided robotic router precisely shaves to the rejuvenation contaminated wood from interior surface used barrels.

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23

Television’s Thirsty Work TESSA NICHOLSON

A number of Marlborough wineries will be part of a new television series, due to hit our screens on Food TV later this year. The series is called Thirsty Work created by wine writer Yvonne Lorkin.

Yvonne says the birth of Thirsty Work has

been themed

followed a very long gestation period, as

into regions,

it was an idea she first came up with in

and Yvonne

1998.

describes the

“I have been thinking about getting

series as a “tiki

New Zealand wine on TV since I began

tour around New

working in the wine business, which is

Zealand by your

a long time ago. But it was that classic

taste buds.”

thing, that I had this idea and would talk

Each programme

to people in the television business and

is broken down

they would go, ‘Yeah, that sounds great’,

into three

but nothing would happen.”

segments,

While the Peta Mathias series did cover

focusing on individuals who have

wine, once that finished, Yvonne says

impacted on the beverage industry, plus

there was nothing there to replace it. That

tips of how to get the best from wine,

hasn’t been helped by the impact of the

whether you are tasting it, buying it or

new alcohol laws, which prohibit any form

cellaring it.

of promotion of alcohol in the media.

“I want people to understand that the

“I had in my head it was about education

show is not about me standing there

and about the people behind the

telling them, this is how you drink a glass

beverages, rather than saying you all

of wine. It’s about going to visit these

should go out and drink more wine. That

really interesting people that make these

is not what the programme is about, but it

wines, that brew these gorgeous beers

was tricky trying to convince other people

and ciders, and telling their stories. We

the programme wasn’t like that.”

enjoy wine along the way, but it’s more

Food Television has picked up the series

about getting to know these people and

and hope to have the programmes on

their history. It’s a connection between

air by late June. Given the programming

the people and the bottle.”

style of the Food channel, it means each

Yvonne says even she has had her eyes

programme will air more than once, on a

opened during the filming.

rotation system.

“I have been writing about wine for a

The 30 minute programmes have

number of years now and I thought I

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knew a lot of people, knew their stories and had a handle on some of the personalities behind them. But Thirsty Work has totally opened my eyes to the diversity of people and the hilarity of some of the stories, how some businesses were set up and how people get through when time gets tough with weather or the recession, and how they need to become clever. It has been really inspiring.”

Having been filming since November, Yvonne hopes to have between six and eight episodes initially, with more to come in the future.

The companies in Marlborough who will feature on the first series are; Yealands Estate, Forrest Wines, Blind River Wines, Villa Maria and Hunter’s.

Cellar Hand Course Success Last year NMIT, industry members and the Ministry of Social Development created a first ever cellar hand course. Its success has seen it repeated again this year.

Last year’s course was a first for the New

partnership with the industry itself if it was

“You can teach people about the

Zealand wine industry and has been

to be successful,” he says.

importance of temperature, or pumping

deemed to be one of the most successful

In February another 15 individuals, aged

over or fermentation. But there is nothing

partnership style courses in the South

between 19 and 40, undertook the latest

quite like actually doing it for it to all make

Island.

four-week course. After a debrief last

sense.”

NMIT’s Programme Area Leader Jeff

year with the wineries involved, NMIT

The three wineries that backed the

Wilson says they had 15 students take

changed the course slightly to provide

course last year are back on board again

part, on a course that was divided into

more training on winery equipment use,

and have been joined by sister winery

theoretical and practical segments.

bringing in a specialist winery engineer

to Kim Crawford – Drylands. Villa Maria

With three wineries backing the course,

from Vitis NZ. During the four weeks they

and Wither Hills have also interviewed

(Brancott Estate, Indevin and Kim

were taught health and safety, literacy,

and offered positions for those not placed

Crawford) all the students got to spend

budgeting, employment, basic computer

with the partner wineries for this vintage,

time on the ground in each of the

skills and food hygiene at NMIT. They

giving all 14 who completed the course

wineries, learning the practical side of

also spent more time in each of the

job opportunities. The partnership

the industry. All were informed that if they

wineries, learning how a cellar works

between industry and NMIT is one of

passed the training aspect, they could be

and the all important role of a cellar

the reasons the course is deemed so

offered full time employment during the

hand. One of the beauties of the course

successful.

vintage. Of the 15 that began, ten went

for wineries, is they know they will have

“It was a whole new concept for the

on to take up a vintage position. Two of

workers who have some basic knowledge

Ministry of Social Development for this

those gained permanent jobs, five had

not only of the industry, but also the

industry and the length required for

their contracts extended at the end of

winery they are working in, once vintage

the course, but they have supported

the vintage with the majority being re-

begins.

us and we have shown that it can and

employed again this year.

To ensure the students understood the

does work. We can’t praise the industry

Out of that whole year, only three of the

importance of each facet of the vintage

partners enough. They have placed a

15 have re registered with WINZ.

process, they were provided with frozen

lot of time into getting these students up

Jeff says NMIT has been very keen to

grapes to make their own wine. Each

to graduation and then assisting them

establish the Cellar Hand course for a

day they had to spend time on the

during the actual vintage period.”

number of years, as an adjunct to the

winemaking, and finally bottled their

current winery and viticulture courses

individual wines, just before graduating.

being run here in Marlborough.

Jeff says that is a very important aspect

“But we knew we had to have a

of the course.

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25

GST on instalment payments Wine growers: when you sell your grapes to wineries, are you paid in instalments? Inland Revenue is finding some people in our industry aren’t accounting for the GST on these payments correctly.

If you’re registered for GST and you supply grapes to a winery or processing facility, you’re probably well aware you need to include the amount you receive in your GST return.

But which return? In most cases, accounting for GST in the right taxable period is a straight-forward matter. However, problems can arise when the grower receives payment (for a single supply) in instalments over a period of time.

When you return your GST in these cases depends on your GST accounting basis.

If you use the payments basis, you return your GST in the taxable period in which you receive each payment. That is, you may receive payments spread across two or more taxable periods.

If you use the invoice or hybrid basis, you return all of the GST up front – in the taxable period you issue the invoice, or you receive the first payment, whichever comes first. However, some growers on the invoice or hybrid basis are incorrectly operating and returning their GST in the taxable period after all payments are received.

Paying GST on the full value of the supply when you’ve only received the first payment can create cash flow difficulties.

Changing to the payments basis may make your life easier because you’ll be paying Inland Revenue after you’ve been paid yourself.

A business can use the payments basis if the total value of taxable supplies in a 12 month period is under $2 million. If the value of your taxable supplies exceeds this figure, you may still qualify depending on the nature, value and volume of your supplies, and the type of accounting system you use.

If you’re considering changing your accounting basis, we recommend you discuss the pros and cons with your tax advisor first. All applications to Inland Revenue for a change in accounting basis must be in writing.

Wishing to continue with the invoice or hybrid basis? Please

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check your accounting processes to ensure you’re returning your income at the right time.

For more information on this topic, please go to www.ird.govt.nz (search term ‘get ready to register’).

IS YOUR WATER PERMIT DUE TO EXPIRE? Call

Helen Woodward

Resource Management Consultant For all your resource consent applications and monitoring needs Water - Discharge - Land Use Environmental-soil fertility and contamination testing, water quality testing For experienced, local, prompt service Contact Helen at Phone 03 579 5669 Mobile: 0272 11115 Email: h.woodward@xtra.co.nz

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry.

To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com

APRIL 23 – 27

Decanter World Wine Awards 2012 – judging

MAY 22

International Wine Challenge – results announced – London

22 – 24

International Wine Challenge Discovery Tasting at London International Wine Fair

29 – 31

Vinexpo Asia Pacific 2012 – Hong Kong

31

Wine Marlborough Prunning Workshop - Dog Point Vineyard. Email kate@wine-marlborough.co.nz for more details.

JUNE 19

NZW South Island Grape Days – Marlborough Convention Centre, Blenheim

JULY 20:

Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year Competition

TBC:

Marlborough Silver Secateurs Competition

FOR QUALITY HARVESTING WITH EXPERIENCED STAFF

AUGUST 22 - 24

Romeo Bragato Conference – Blenheim

SEPTEMBER 4 – 6

Spiegleau International Wine Competition judging – Blenheim

OCTOBER 15 – 17

Marlborough Wine Show judging - Blenheim

Phone 578 6580 / 0274 441 404 41 St Leonards Road, Blenheim

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27

News From Home and Away The World’s His Oyster So the saying goes, but it could well be true for Steve Bird, who was one of only two New Zealand winemakers to be invited to present his wines to the residents of the world’s most luxurious private mega yacht The World.

The cruise liner’s cellars are capable of holding 12,000 bottles and residents have a selection of 600 different wine labels, sourced from 18 countries. The wines Steve presented were all from Marlborough, the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, the 2010 Riesling, 2008 Gewurztraminer and 2009 Big Barrel Pinot Noir.

Hills Labs Expand into Marlborough Cawthron’s Marlborough lab has been sold to Hills Laboratories, with the sale expected to be complete by the end of June. Currently Cawthron and Hill have signed a Heads of Agreement for sale.

There will be no change in the service that has been provided to Marlborough.

In a press statement, Hill Laboratories said they will continue to provide the same service from the same premises in Grovetown. “The purchase provides an opportunity to strengthen the core areas of it’s business – environmental and wine testing,” the statement said.

Wine Options Signing Off After 30 years the popular national Wine Options competition is about to sign off.

Chairman Kingsley Wood says the very last event will be held at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Auckland on July 1st.

Teams that have taken part in the popular

event during the last three decades are likely to be already planning to get back together to have one last go at the competition. And given the move in recent years to dress up for the event, costumes makers are likely to be in overdrive. Hopefully Marlborough will be well represented in the final swan song.

Accolades Concours Mondial du Sauvignon 2012 Congrats to two Marlborough wineries who picked up special trophies at this prestigious competition.

Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2011 received a special trophy for Oak-aged Sauvignon, while Saint Clair was awarded the trophy for Unoaked Sauvignon for their Pioneer Block Foundation 1, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc.

Of the 61 Gold Medals awarded, seven came to Marlborough. All the Sauvignons were 2011.

Congrats to medal winners, Brancott Estate Brancott B, Esk Valley, Giesen Brothers, Petit Clos by Clos Henri, Ra Nui Wairau Valley, Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Snap Block and Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice.

Finnish Wine of the Year Competition Villa Maria was awarded a Gold Medal at the above show, for its Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010.

Royal Easter Show Trophies Champion Gewurztraminer – Distant Land Marlborough 2011 Champion Riesling – Clarke Estate Single Vineyard 2011 Champion Sauvignon Blanc – Villa Maria Single Vineyard Southern Clays 2011

Champion Medium Sweet or Sweet Wine – Brancott Estate Brancott B Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Champion Rosé or Blush – Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 Drinks Business Green Awards 2012 Runner up in the Sustainability Award of the Year – Yealands Estate. Special Commendation – Villa Maria Personal Home Brewery Winner There is possibly some irony in the fact that grape growers had the chance to win a home brewery, as part of a fun competition recently. The Syngenta competition offered up a NZ invented and built Williams Warn Personal Home Brewery to one lucky user. And Jason Tripe was the name drawn out of the hat in February. So as he prepares for vintage, he can revel in the fact that he will be able to brew his own product at home, once the rush is over.

Book Winners Last month we offered up two copies of the book, A Bloke For All Seasons, The Peter Yealands story, written by Tom Percy. Both copies have been signed by both Peter and the author.

From the number of entries we had sent to us at Wine Marlborough, two names were drawn out of a hat. The lucky winners are; P Taylor from Blenheim and Brenden Morahen from Christchurch. We will send out your copies in the next few days. Congrats to both of you.

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

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Lex Thomson B.Vit & Oen. is available to assist the winegrower.

Viticulture services now include: • A training program for pruning staff. A qualified and experienced tutor will come to your vineyard and teach the fundamentals of correct pruning. Quality pruning produces balanced vines that increase yield and fruit quality.

• Help with S.W.N.Z scorecards and audits Visit www.vitpractice.co.nz for details about our full range of viticulture services.

Ph: 021 230 2348 Email: lexthomson@vitpractice.co.nz

TANKS FOR SALE 2 x 1000L Variable capicity, ex Vitis as new Price negotiable Contact Gerald

0274 331 059

McAlpines Roundwood Limited

Suppliers of

Quality Roundwood Contact:

Grant Cathcart Phone 03 313 8339 Fax 03 313 3767 Mobile 021 511 460

roundwood@mcalpines.co.nz