Winepress - November 2020

Winepress THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 311/ NOVEMBER 2020

WINE SHOW

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT

VINTAGE CHALLENGE

FRANK YUKICH

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

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REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4

10 Wine Show

6 28 30 32 34 36

Editorial - Sophie Preece

From The Board Anna Laugeson TasmanCrop Met Report Rob Agnew Generation Y-ine Callum Haynes Pioneer - Frank Yukich Biosecurity Watch Jim Herdman

A Pinot Noir that “dances on the palate,” took top spot at last month’s 2020 Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect.

16 Viticulture Benchmarking

Marlborough grape growers enjoyed a leap in yields and profits for the 2020 season, despite the complications of a Covid-19 harvest.

22 Vintage Countdown

Industry News Wine Happenings

Expediting approvals for international vintage workers stranded in New Zealand is the “highest and most urgent priority” of a labour think tank in Marlborough.

30 The passing of a legend

Cover: The Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award was presented to Neal and Judy Ibbotson at the Marlborough Wine Show. Photo Jim Tannock. Page 12

28

30

In 1973 Frank Yukich planted the first Montana wine in Marlborough, proclaiming that “wines from here will be world famous”. Tessa Nicholson writes of a man with truly audacious plans.

Winepress November 2020 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 marcus@winemarlborough.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising and Subscriptions: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Anna Laugesen Anna.laugesen@xtra.co.nz Ben Ensor ben@mcdonaldtextiles.co.nz Beth Forrest Beth@forrest.co.nz Callum Linklater callum@csviticulture.co.nz Gus Altschwager gus@akwines.net Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Kirsty Harkness kirsty@mountbase.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.com Tom Trolove (Chair) tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Tracy Johnston Tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Designed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

From the Editor NEW ZEALAND’S wine exports continue to soar, driven largely by a lockdown thirst for Sauvignon Blanc. But while that helicopter view offers a “rosy” outlook for the wine industry, wine export figures don’t tell the full story, says New Zealand Winegrowers’ new board chair Clive Jones, from Marlborough’s Nautilus Estate. “The separation between commercial retail facing and the premium on premise fine wine is widening, because that’s where the challenge is at the moment,” he says on page 18.

Rabobank’s Q4 Wine Quarterly report notes that New Zealand producers have benefitted from increased home wine consumption during the Covid-19 pandemic, driving strong retail demand in key markets and supporting an increase in bulk wine exports, particularly to the UK and Europe. To August 2020, Sauvignon Blanc exports were 261 million litres, up 13% year-on-year, and comprising 88% of total exports, says Rabobank senior wine analyst Hayden Higgins. “Exports of the 2020 Sauvignon Blanc vintage are also running ahead of the same time in 2019, with shipments of this year’s vintage commencing in May 2020.”

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has proven a good wine for tough times, says Zephyr’s Ben Glover, who has used an array of channels to maintain sales over the past eight months. But he says the pandemic has accelerated a phenomenon already at play in Marlborough, widening the gap between the very large retaildriven wine companies and their hospitality-focussed neighbours. “We are going to end up with two very defined business models in the one industry,” he says on page 20, where we kick off a ‘snapshot’ series, looking at experiences of various wine companies in the Covid world.

You’ll also find Ben on page 10, as chief judge for the Marlborough Wine Show, where the quality of wines entered were “outstanding”, he says. “They were pretty awesome to be honest, off the back of two excellent years, 2019 and 2020.”

The Leefield Station Pinot Noir 2019 won the QuayConnect Champion Wine of Show, and the Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award went to Saint Clair founders Judy and Neal Ibbotson (page 12), recognising 42 years as tireless promoters of Marlborough wine. As well as their wonderful team of two, and the family coming up through the business, the couple says their successes could only have happened because of Saint Clair’s wider crew. “Whilst the names are Neal and Judy, it’s only been possible because of the people around us.”

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are

expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

This document is printed on an environmentally responsible paper, produced using elemental chlorine free (EFC), third party pulp from responsible sources, manufactured under the strict ISO 14001 Environmental Management System and is 100% Recyclable.

SOPHIE PREECE

Winepress November 2020 / 3

GROW

From the Board ANNA LAUGESEN

THE RECENTLY released Vineyard Benchmarking Report - Marlborough 2020, shows the vineyard model profit before tax for 2020 was up 16% on the average of 2015-2019. It’s up 37% on 2019, when profit was significantly lower due to poor climatic conditions during flowering and pollination negatively affecting the yields of a number of varieties.

The primary reason for the growth in profit for 2020 was higher yields due to fantastic weather conditions throughout flowering and in the lead-up to harvest. While these figures show a healthy increase in returns for grape growers, it is important to note that the report ends in June 2020, so does not take into account the pruning season that followed.

Pruning costs were significantly higher this season due to a lack of skilled labour and the costs associated with training new labour. Border closures put in place due to Covid-19 meant the thousands of experienced and skilled Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme workers who usually prune the vast majority of Marlborough’s vines were unable to enter the country.

While we were incredibly fortunate that timely decisions were made allowing summer RSE workers (who were unable to return home) to move to Marlborough for the pruning season, it was certainly a challenge and a costly exercise to get those with no previous experience in pruning up to speed. A greater than usual number of people on working holiday visas also contributed to Marlborough’s pruning workforce - most stepping foot into a vineyard for the first time.

With repatriation flights continuing to take place, many of the RSE workers carried over from summer have now returned home, as have many of the travellers on working holiday visas. While it is essential for the well-being of the RSE workers, their families and communities that they return home, it does unfortunately pose a complex challenge for growers this season, due to an ever dwindling labour supply market. That being said, opportunities can arise from difficult situations and there are a number of clever initiatives being established which look to engage and train locals in our region who are looking for work.

Aside from the labour supply challenges, another key issue facing growers is the rise in vineyard working expenses. Vineyard model working expenses were 15% higher in 2020 compared with the 2015-2019 average. The 4 / Winepress November 2020

primary reason is the continuing climb in wage rates. In the five years between 2015-2019, the minimum wage rose by 20% with other wage rates following suit.

Benchmarking is a hugely useful tool for business planning and budgeting purposes. Businesses should compare their operation against the Vineyard Benchmarking Report. However, one needs to also be mindful of the heightened risk that Covid-19 presents to our businesses and how it could have an enormous - and devastating - impact on the numbers.

As it stands, the report points to good financial progress in vineyard businesses. However, only seven short months ago we faced the very real possibility of the region being left unharvested. Imagine how different the reported figures would look had grapes been left on the vine; grape growers facing no income and wineries with empty tanks.

Given the continuing uncertainty posed by Covid-19, it is important that planning for the grape growing season and upcoming harvest includes Covid-19 compliance strategies and systems, so that they are in place and ready should New Zealand see a resurgence in Covid-19 cases.

Sadly, dealing with the beast that is Covid-19 is just another key factor to consider in the planning of any wine business. Think back to March 23 when we were incredibly fortunate the New Zealand Government classed wine operations as essential businesses. We all remember the scramble to meet the strict criteria essential businesses were required to comply with in order to operate through Alert Levels 3 and 4.

The diverse makeup of the Marlborough wine industry is part of what makes our region so special. With that in mind, whether a small family run business or a large corporate, we must all do what we can to ensure that we are in the best possible position to weather the challenges that Covid-19 will no doubt continue to throw our way.

Anna is one of two new members on the Marlborough Winegrowers board, joining as a grape grower representative. She and her husband Richard own Craiglochart Vineyard in the Waihopai Valley

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MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – October 2020

October October 2020

2020 compared to LTA GDD’s for month -Max/Min¹ 136.6 131% GDD’s for month – Mean² 140.3 125% Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Oct 20 – Max/Min 259.2 138% Jul - Oct 20 – Mean 307.2 128% Mean Maximum (°C) 19.2 +0.9°C Mean Minimum (°C) 9.5 +1.7°C Mean Temp (°C) 14.3 +1.2°C Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 2 less Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal Sunshine hours 224.8 97% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2020 2166.7 108% Rainfall (mm) 22.4 39% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2020 356.8 66% Evapotranspiration – mm 114.4 112% Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 272.5 93% Mean soil temp – 10cm 13.2 °1.2+C Mean soil temp – 30cm 14.0 +0.3°C

October LTA

Period of LTA

October 2019

104.4 111.8

(1996-2019) (1996-2019)

95.4 105.9

188.5 240.2 18.3 7.8 13.1 2.15 0.1 230.8 140.7 299.6 2012.9 57.8 2.3 161.0 544.1 102.4 291.7 12.0 13.7

(1996-2019) 172.8 (1996-2019) 243.0 (1986-2019) 18.4 1986-2019) 7.0 (1986-2019) 12.7 1986-2019) 5 (1986-2019) 0 1986-2019) 250.5 1983 1969 (1986-2019) 2253.9 (1986-2019) 28.0 1961 2001 (1986-2019) 527.2 (1996-2019) 103.5 (1996-2019) 253.9 (1986-2019) 11.4 (1986-2019) 13.3

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Temperature October’s mean temperature of 14.3°C was 1.2°C above the long-term average temperature for October of 13.1°C (1986-2019). This is the warmest October since

2001, which also recorded 14.3°C and the fifth warmest October on record for the 89 years 1932 to 2020. The warmest maximum temperature of 28.5°C was recorded on 5 October 2020. This is the second warmest October day on record over the 74 years 1947 to 2020.

The warmest October day on record is 23 October 1961 with a maximum temperature of 30.1°C. The coolest minimum temperature of 1.8°C was recorded on 16 October 2020.

The mean temperature for the first week of October 2020 of 15.6°C, was 2.5°C above average. This was in marked contrast to the first week of October 2019 which was 4.1°C below average. The second and third weeks of October were 2.4°C and 3.2°C cooler than the first week, but still close to average. The final ten days of the month were largely above average, albeit with a cool change from the 27th to the 29th; i.e. the maximum temperature on 26th was 23.5°C followed by a maximum of only 11.7°C on 27th.

October has now recorded an above average mean temperature in six of the last eight years (2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2020). However in the 12 years from 2001 to 2012 the October mean temperature was only above average in one year, 2001).

Table 2: Weekly weather data during October 2020

Mean Max Mean Min Mean Ground Rainfall

(°C) (°C) (°C) Deviation Frosts (mm) 1st - 7th 21.3 9.8 15.6 (+2.5) 0 0 8th - 14th 16.9 9.4 13.2 (+0.1) 0 5.8 15th - 21st 17.6 7.2 12.4 (-0.7) 0 3.0 22nd - 28th 20.4 10.0 15.2 (+2.1) 0 11.8 29th – 31st - (3 days) 21.2 12.8 17.0 (+3.9) 0 1.8

1st – 31st October 19.2 9.5 14.3 (+1.2) 0 22.4 2020 October LTA 18.3 7.8 13.1 2.1 57.8 (1986 – 2019) LTA – Long Term Average 6 / Winepress November 2020

Sunshine (hours) 65.1 28.3 53.3 59.5 18.6 224.8 230.8

Frosts No ground frosts were recorded in Blenheim in October 2020, in marked contrast to October 2019 which recorded five ground frosts. The long-term average number of ground frosts for October is two. This is only the second year since 2000 that Blenheim hasn’t recorded a ground frost in October.

Growing degree-days (GDD)

(Figure 1). September and October 2020 have both recorded mean temperatures well above the long-term average and the GDD deviation line climbed progressively during these two months, albeit with short periods of cool temperatures causing brief drops in the GDD line. I think that these brief cool periods have probably taken our minds off how warm the season has actually been up to the end of October. The GDD line rose sharply in the first week of October 2020, in complete contrast to the first week of October 2019, when it dropped sharply. The GDD line for September and October 2020 has followed a very similar path as in 2013 and 201

The growing degree day graph was presented in last month’s Met Report. However, as the current season is shaping up to be a very warm one the graph is presented again this month Figure 1: Normalized growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the long-term average for the period 1 September to 31 December Table 3: Highest total growing degree day totals on record for Blenheim for September and October (1987 – 2020) Year

Total GDD

1988 240.9 1989 216.3 2020 213.9 1999 199.8 2001 198.9 2013 198.0 1996 193.0 2016 186.9 LTA 153.2 The data in Table 3 indicate that total GDDs for September and October 2020 are the third highest on record for the 34 years 1987 to 2020. Only the two very warm years at the end of the 1980s have recorded higher GDDs at the start of the growing season. The total GDDs to the end of October 2020 are ahead of the GDDs in recent warm seasons 2013 and 2016, at the same time point.

In early November NIWA have suggested that there is a 65% chance of temperatures in Marlborough being above average for the three months November 2020 to January 2021, 25% chance of average and 10% chance of below average temperatures. In other words prepare for a warm summer and an early flowering and harvest.

I mentioned last month that the 50% budburst dates of Sauvignon blanc at a number of the VineFacts phenology monitored vineyards in 2020 were earlier than in previous seasons (Table 4). Earlier budburst can mean that temperatures immediately after budburst may be cooler than if budburst was later. Given that budburst in 2020 was early we were conservative with our estimation of the budburst to flowering interval in 2020. However, with the majority of October experiencing warmer than average temperatures and with a prediction of a warm November it is highly likely that 50% flowering in 2020 will be earlier than the dates in Table 4 that we predicted back on 1 October. 50% flowering at the Central Rapaura and Upper Brancott vineyards is likely to occur in late November, whereas in 2013 it was on the 2nd and 4th of December respectively.

Table 4: Dates of 50% budburst and flowering of Sauvignon blanc in Marlborough Season Central Rapaura Upper Brancott

Budburst BB to FL Flowering Budburst BB to FL Interval Interval 2013/14 3-Oct 60 2-Dec 4-Oct 61 2014/15 2-Oct 67 8-Dec 9-Oct 66 2015/16 4-Oct 63 6-Dec 10-Oct 59 2016/17 8-Oct 66 13-Dec 9-Oct 65 2017/18 5-Oct 60 4-Dec 8-Oct 56 2018/19 28-Sep 67 4-Dec 4-Oct 65 2019/20 30-Sep 63 2-Dec 10-Oct 56 2020/21 26-Sep (67)1 (2-Dec)2 26-Sep (65)¹

Flowering 4-Dec 14-Dec 8-Dec 13-Dec 3-Dec 8-Dec 5-Dec (30-Nov)²

Winepress November 2020 / 7

Budburst to Flowering interval1 and Flowering date2 predictions for 2020 were made on 1 October 2020 and were estimates.

The intervals are likely to be shorter and 50% flowering dates earlier than predicted.

Sunshine October 2020 recorded 224.8 sunshine hours, 97% of the long-term average. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a very sunny month nationally.

However, Blenheim was the sunniest town in New Zealand during October. Total sunshine for Blenheim, January to October 2020 was 2166.7 hours, 108% of the long-term average of 2012.9 hours. This is the fourth highest total on record.

Rainfall

experiences an accumulated water surplus for three and a half months from mid-June through until early October. Or conversely, for just over eight months from early October to mid-June Blenheim normally experiences an accumulated water deficit. The data in Table 5 indicate that for the seven years 2014 to 2020 that the 3-month water balance at 31 October has been well below average. In all seven years 2014 to 2020 the three month rainfall from August to October has been below average. If NIWAs predictions are correct we need to be prepared for a warmer and drier than average summer and the consequences this could have on soil moisture and vine growth.

Table 5: Seasonal Water Balance Values for Blenheim at 31 October

Blenheim recorded 22.4 mm rain in October, 39% of the long-term average. Rain was recorded in Blenheim on nine days during October 2020. However, the highest daily total was only 8.2 mm on 26 October. Total rainfall for January to October 2020 of 356.8 mm was 66% of the long-term average of 544.1 mm. This is the fourth lowest total on record for the 91 years 1930 to 2020. Lowest is 305 mm recorded in 1969, which also went on to record the lowest January to December annual total for Blenheim.

Year 3-month

rainfall total (mm) 2013 188.6 2014 72.6 2015 110.2 2016 124.2 2017 148.0 2018 129.6 2019 148.0 2020 136.6 LTA 170.9

Seasonal Water Balance A brief reminder that the seasonal water balance is a way of showing whether Blenheim is in a water surplus or a water deficit situation. It is calculated by taking the 3-month rainfall total and subtracting the 3-month evapotranspiration total. Blenheim normally only

3-month 3-month ET total water balance (mm) (mm) 232.5 -43.9 207.7 -135.1 247.3 -137.1 226.1 -101.9 236.4 -88.4 228.2 -98.6 232.4 -84.4 267.2 -130.6 219.8 -48.9

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CELEBRATE

Wine Show A home-grown celebration of Marlborough wine SOPHIE PREECE

A PINOT Noir that “dances on the palate,” took top spot at the 2020 Marlborough Wine Show, A toast to Frank Yukich at the Marlborough Wine Show. Photo Richard Briggs sponsored by QuayConnect. Chief judge Ben young vines require careful consideration when it comes to Glover describes the Leefield Station Pinot Noir 2019 as “an cropping levels, “to get as much concentration as we can”, exceptional wine full of bright fruits, really vibrant palate, she says, describing a dedicated attention to detail in the and lovely length”, calling it the undisputed winner of the show. It is indicative of a vintage that produced some “quite vineyard, to ensure “every vine is in balance”.

And the future is bright for the wines, as the vines age stunning” examples of the variety, he says. “These would be and the vineyard continues to grow, expanding up from the some of the very best Pinots to come out of Marlborough.” glacial valley into Leefield’s foothills, with a diversity of soil The 2020 Sauvignon Blancs were also “especially types and aspects, including northerly facing slopes, says exceptional”, and a credit to the winemakers and vineyard Emma. “That will add to the complexity of the fruit we are managers who worked through the Covid-19 lockdown to getting from there.” get them made, says Ben. Emma, who judged in the Marlborough Wine Show, More than 600 Marlborough wines were judged by says she loves that the competition brings the industry an independent panel of 17 judges last month, with 17 together to support the region “and also to bring out the trophies presented at the Celebration Lunch on October 30. highlights”. The calibre of wines coming through are Saint Clair Family Estate was a star of the show, with four evidence of how the industry has benefitted from the trophies, including the Coterie Wine of Provenance for its experience of the past 40 years, with a second and third Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2020, and the generation of viticulturists and winemakers coming Marlborough Museum Legacy Award for three vintages through, bringing international wine experiences with them, of the Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay. Then the she says. “It’s a huge accomplishment for our teams when Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award was it’s at that level.” presented to Saint Clair founders Judy and Neal Ibbotson (page 12), who Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens describes as tireless promoters of Marlborough wine. “They have always placed Marlborough first and Saint Clair second on their international sales trips, and with their attention to quality have helped cement the region’s reputation both domestically and internationally.”

Emma Marris, one of Leefield Station’s winemakers, says winning the QuayConnect Champion Wine of Show left the Marisco team “a bit shellshocked”. It’s the latest surprise in an “exciting” year that’s seen the Waihopai Valley vineyard harvest under Covid-19 restrictions, while gearing up the presses and tanks in its brand new winery. “This accolade for us as a business gives us a huge sense that we have been making the right decisions,” Emma says. “It adds more fuel to the fire for the coming years.”

The 2019 vintage is just the third release of the Leefield Chief Judge Ben Glover with Judy and Sarina Ibbotson.

Station Pinot Noir, from vines planted in 2014, and hails Photo Richard Briggs from a “spectacular growing season”, says Emma. The 10 / Winepress November 2020

CELEBRATE

QuayConnect Champion Wine of the Show Leefield Station Pinot Noir 2019

WineWorks Champion Sauvignon Blanc Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc 2020

The Coterie Wine of Provenance Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2020

WineWorks Champion Sauvignon Blanc 2019 & Older Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Marlborough Museum Legacy Award Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay 2013 Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay 2016 Vitis Champion Sparkling Wine Mumm Marlborough Brut Prestige Wine Brokers New Zealand Champion Gewürztraminer Johanneshof Cellars Marlborough Gewüztraminer 2019 De Sangosse NZ Champion Riesling Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Riesling 2020 TNL Freighting New Zealand Champion Other White Varietal Saint Clair Pioneer Block 5 Bull Block Grüner Veltliner 2020 Label & Litho Champion Pinot Gris Saint Clair Godfrey’s Creek Reserve Pinot Gris 2018

Scenic Hotel Marlborough Champion Rosé Mount Riley ‘The Bonnie’ Pinot Rosé 2020 Classic Oak Products Champion Pinot Noir 2019 Leefield Station Pinot Noir 2019 Classic Oak Products Champion Pinot Noir 2018 & Older The Wrekin Needle’s Eye Pinot Noir 2015 Wine Marlborough Champion Other Red Varietal Mount Riley Marlborough Syrah 2019 Barrel Finance & Logistics Champion Sweet Wine Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Noble Riesling Botrytis Selection 2018 MRC Champion Chardonnay 2019 Stoneleigh Latitude Chardonnay 2019 MRC Champion Chardonnay 2018 & Older Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay Marlborough 2018

Winepress November 2020 / 11

CELEBRATE Photo by Jim Tannock

Lifetime Achievement Neal and Judy Ibbotson’s remarkable contribution to wine SOPHIE PREECE

WHEN NEAL and Judy Ibbotson bought a bare block of land on the outskirts of Blenheim, it was meant as a stepping stone to something bigger. Instead it was the “right place at the right time”, say the founders of Saint Clair Family Estate, 42 years after planting their first vines.

Judy and Neal have been awarded the 2020 Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award, after more than four decades spent growing and promoting Marlborough’s wine industry. It’s a story that stretches from 1978, when they planted their own block – one of the first nine property owners to become contract growers for Montana – to today, when Saint Clair Family Estate is one of the largest familyowned wine companies in New Zealand, with a number of Marlborough vineyards, a winery and over 70 export markets to its name. “We are very proud of the fact that we are 100% family owned and that we now have our children involved in the industry,” says Neal, from their vineyard home at the edge of that original block.

He was a farm consultant in the 1970s, and the 13-hectare Fairhall land was not the farm he dreamed of.

But the couple set about making it work for them, with 100 pigs on their paddocks and Judy sometimes seen racing down New Renwick Rd in her turquoise Morris Minor, chasing an errant porker.

In 1978, the Ibbotsons took a punt on a brand new industry, and set about planting vines. Neal would drive a tractor up and down their paddocks on the weekends, drilling holes ready for planting. On weekdays, Judy and a group of helpers would set about planting during school hours, driving her Morrie through the vineyard, loaded with vines. “It was once stuck out here for two days in the mud,” she says with a laugh. “Because it wasn’t a tractor,” adds Neal.

12 / Winepress November 2020

“It’s not about the things you do yourself, it’s always about the people you work with.”

Neal Ibbotson They were busy days of planning and planting, and Judy clearly remembers the day Neal returned home for lunch wielding a calculator. “He asked me how many rows I had done,” she says, still amazed at his audacity. Neal recalls it clearly too. “Judy pointed to the gate and said, ‘go back the same way you came in’.”

He soon found that growing young vines was as rewarding as growing young livestock, with similar principles to both – “it’s all about care and attention,” he says. “With vines they respond and produce quality wine.”

In those early days, fellow grower Henk Ruesink was an invaluable source of advice for the couple, advising them to use trickle irrigation at a time when people feared it would dilute the wines. “Henk was a great mentor,” says Neal. “He had green fingers and knew about horticulture and put it into grape growing.” He and the straight-talking Dutchman had an annual competition to grow their young vines the fastest. “We saw Henk one day and he said, ‘I got my first grapevine onto the wire on Christmas day’,” Neal recalls. “I said, ‘what time?’”

In 1994 the Ibbotsons established their own label with three wines – a Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc - and by the next year had quadrupled their production.

By 2006 Saint Clair had its own winery, and they’ve steadily grown their offering and reputation since, with the

likes of the wines that won four trophies at last month’s Marlborough Wine Show.

Neal and Judy’s strong partnership has been key to their success, and Neal says it is “significant and important” that the Lifetime Achievement Award recognises that, instead of acknowledging an individual. “Because Judy has been such an important part of the development. Not only in the initial planting but also in promoting our wines all around the world.” Judy says they decided very early on, after Neal did an overseas marketing trip on his own, that “if we couldn’t both go, we wouldn’t go”.

As well as their team of two, and the family coming up through the business, their successes have only happened because of Saint Clair’s wider crew, says Neal. “Whilst the names are Neal and Judy, it’s only been possible because of the people around us. It’s not about the things you do yourself, it’s always about the people you work with.”

To read more about the Saint Clair Family Estate journey, check out the May 2019 edition of Winepress at winemarlborough.co.nz/news/

Previous winners

Photo Richard Briggs

Neal and Judy join a list of renowned industry members who have been recognised with the Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Awards, including Gerry Gregg, Ross Lawson, Phil Rose, Ivan Sutherland, Jane Hunter, Dr Rengasamy Balasubramaniam and Dr John Forrest.

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Winepress November 2020 / 13

EDUCATE

From the MP STUART SMITH

KIWIS ARE incredibly proud of New Zealand’s world-class wines.

New Zealand’s wine industry has experienced 25 consecutive years of growth, lifting exports from $100 million 20 years ago to almost $2 billion this year. The wine industry forms the backbone of a number of regional economies and must be part of our plan to grow our economy.

There are a number of challenges that the industry will face in the short term.

We need the incoming Government to be proactive to support innovative solutions to these issues.

A major hurdle the wine industry needs to overcome is the inability of cellar doors to charge for wine samples.

Legislation also requires that where a business operates both an on-licence and off-licence, as wineries with restaurants often wish to do, 85% of revenue must come from the sale of alcohol. This is difficult for wineries operating restaurants to achieve.

The wine industry asked the Government to fast-track legislative changes needed to remedy this flawed regulation as part of the Covid-19 response package, but the minister refused. I will therefore be introducing a Member’s bill to Parliament to amend the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act to allow cellar doors to sell wine samples 14 / Winepress November 2020

and bypass the 85% of revenue test.

This will help promote wine tourism, provide confidence to businesses in the wine sector, and allow it to further increase their contribution to the local economies they support.

Wine companies are also facing a shortage of a reliable labour force for vintage 2021, with borders closed to international workers. New Zealand’s wine industry relies on access to skilled cellar hands and seasonal workers for harvesting and winter pruning. Seasonal workers support high-paid, permanent down-stream jobs in the sector, and wine exports support regional communities across New Zealand.

There will be thousands of workers needed across New Zealand for the vintage and pruning, yet there is only a limited supply of local labour.

We must work hard to get Kiwis to fill as many roles as possible, but we must also provide visa flexibility to those already here from vintage 2020 whose experience will be essential to help train and supervise harvest and vintage workers for 2021.

New Zealand also has capacity to bring more people into the country through managed isolation. We currently have around 7,000 managed isolation spaces but are only using

“There are a number of challenges that the industry will face in the short term.” about 5,000 spaces at any one time.

There is no reason not to fully utilise our managed isolation capability where we have jobs that need filling to support the economy. Workers coming to New Zealand to work in our viticulture industry will generate growth and employment for Kiwis.

More than ever we need to provide wineries with confidence by lessening their regulatory burden, encouraging more domestic tourism opportunities, and ensuring their labour needs are met. The industry must continue growing despite the challenges of Covid-19, so it can maintain its worldclass reputation and continue to be a huge contributor to New Zealand’s economy.

Stuart is the MP for Kaikōura, and is the National Party’s viticulture spokesperson. He was formerly president of the New Zealand Grape Growers Council and chair of New Zealand Winegrowers. His contact details are 03 5793204, 0800 788278 or stuart.smith@national.org.nz.

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Winepress November 2020 / 15

GROW

Benchmarking 2020 Profits up and outlook ‘cautiously optimistic’ SOPHIE PREECE

MARLBOROUGH GRAPE growers enjoyed a leap in yields and profits for the 2020 season, despite the complications of a Covid-19 harvest. The 2020 Marlborough Vineyard Benchmarking report, which uses a 30-hectare vineyard model, indicates profits of $11,910 per hectare before tax, which is up 37% on 2019 and a 16% increase on the average profit from 2015 to 2019.

“The combination of the very dry weather right through harvest and low disease pressure, coupled with adequate irrigation for most vineyards, led to good yields of excellent quality fruit,” says the report, which was commissioned

by New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) and the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI), and undertaken by Fruition Horticulture.

The model yield was 13.8 tonnes per hectare, up 10% on 2019 and 6% on the 2015 to 2019 average, while Sauvignon Blanc yield was 14.9 tonnes per hectare, 6% up on 2019, says the report. “The earlier flowering varieties Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay rebounded after a poor year in 2019, up between 30% and 80% in comparison with 2019 due to greatly improved weather conditions for flowering and pollination.” Grape prices rose as well, with Sauvignon Blanc up 3% to $1,905 per tonne, which is 6% higher than the 2015 to 2019 average, says the report. “Prices edged higher due to increased sales and high demand for grapes.” Across all varieties, the model average grape price was $2,020 per tonne, up 4% on 2020 and 7% up on the five years previous.

Greg Dryden of Fruition Horticulture says great climatic conditions and yield potential outweighed the impact of Covid, which was largely a stress factor that created “a lot of anguish” to begin with, but proved little hindrance once the harvest machines started operating. In fact, the rules around Covid made it easier for some to get on with their work, with no distractions, he says. “People could focus on getting their crop off.”

As harvest progressed, new stresses arose as people considered labour shortages for pruning, with borders closed to winter seasonal staff, says Greg. “But as the survey went on that concern dissipated.” He notes that winter

16 / Winepress November 2020

“Underlying industry confidence however is still positive underpinned by strong demand for Sauvignon Blanc”

pruning costs were higher as a result of that loss of seasonal labour, which will be revealed in the 2021 benchmarking report.

Working expenses in the last year increased 2% on 2019, costing the model vineyard $12,455 per hectare, up 15% on the 2015 to 2019 average.

Increases over the past five years have mainly been driven by increased wage rates, with the minimum wage increasing 20% between 2015 and 2019, while growers report a consequent increase in other wage rates, says the report.

“Pest and disease control costs have also been increasing although fungicide inputs were able to be reduced in 2019/20 due to the very favourable, dry weather conditions.”

Marlborough growers continued to invest in capital items during the season, including dams, tractors, machinery and utility vehicles, the report finds. “Some of the machinery purchased is specifically to reduce labour expenses such as three-row sprayers, mechanical pruners and vine strippers.”

Exports up but future uncertain Three quarters of the growers surveyed in the 2020 Marlborough Vineyard Benchmarking survey felt the biggest risk ahead was the potential impact of Covid-19 on global wine markets, including the effect on the distribution chain and the supply-demand balance, says the report. “At present they feel uncertain as to what may happen six to 12 months ahead.” Sauvignon Blanc export sales were up by 6% in June and 23% in July 2020, compared to the same months in 2019, according to New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) export data. NZW reports that all wineries are facing “increased uncertainty on future sales in a world impacted by Covid-19,” says the report. “But if supermarket sales continue at current levels the signs, overall for the industry, are positive.”

GROW

The vineyard model for 2020 is based on production, income and expenditure information gleaned from 48 participating vineyards, with 12 in the Awatere Valley and 36 in the Wairau Valley, representing small, medium and large producers. Sauvignon Blanc is the dominant grape variety in the model, accounting for 80% of the producing area, followed by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris.

As well as collecting data, the report’s authors talked to growers about their outlook, and found they were “cautiously optimistic” regarding the year ahead, with forecasts of a slightly lower crop in 2021. The Covid-19 pandemic has had a “significant influence” on morale, with half the group “very uncertain” about their businesses due to the pandemic’s potential effect on the wine supplydemand balance, labour availability and expenses. “Most of the rest were more positive, and with a good result in

2020 they still perceive a good future,” the report says. The authors say most surveyed growers were budgeting similar prices to 2020, and many were hoping for an increase to reflect climbing expenses. “Underlying industry confidence however is still positive underpinned by strong demand for Sauvignon Blanc.”

Growth continues Vineyard development continues in Marlborough, with 1,500 hectares coming into production over the past two years, according to the New Zealand Winegrowers vineyard register. The 2020 Marlborough Vineyard Benchmarking report notes that 1.7 million vines were planted in the 2019/ 2020 season in Marlborough, with a mix of new plantings and redevelopment of existing vineyards over approximately 750 to 800ha.

Photo by Richard Briggs

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Winepress November 2020/ 17

PROTECT

Board Report Marlborough winemaker elected as board chair LABOUR ISSUES will be a “top priority” for the New Zealand Winegrowers Board, says newly elected chair Clive Jones, winemaker and general manager at Nautilus Estate in Marlborough. Proactive work has seen many companies get “ahead of the curve” when it comes to summer vineyard work, “so it does look like the next issue we have to resolve is vintage labour”, he says. “There is a lot of active involvement in that at the moment but we won’t know yet whether we have solved it until almost the start of vintage.”

Previous New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) chair John Clarke has left big shoes to fill, having been on the board since 2006, chair since 2018, and “an integral part” of the New Zealand wine industry over the past 40 years, says Clive. “During his time on the board the New Zealand wine industry has made grand strides and has secured a strong international reputation for premium and sustainable wines.”

Clive’s own wine journey began nearly 30 years ago, and for the past 22 years he has been at Nautilus Estate. He was on the Marlborough Winegrowers Board for six years, three of them as chair, and joined the NZW board five years ago, becoming deputy chair in 2018. The governance roles have offered him a “much broader appreciation of the industry”, he says. “That exposure to meeting different people and working through different issues that you may not be facing yourself as a business is very valuable in improving your knowledge. And it ultimately reflects back into building skills that you can apply in your day to day work.” Industry interest in governance seems to be growing, he adds. “The fact that we had 12 people standing in the recent election is amazing.”

Clive is excited about the future of New Zealand wine, with exports on track to reach $2 billion per year by the end of this year, but says it is “imperative” the industry continues to work together to ensure ongoing success. “I believe the New Zealand wine industry needs diversity across region, variety and size of business to be strong.

A cooperative and united approach, combined with an absolute focus on quality, has served us well in the past and must continue to ensure our success in the future.”

A “helicopter view” of the wine industry in a Covid-19 18 / Winepress November 2020

world gives a “pretty rosy view”, with export sales up, pushing the industry closer to that $2b mark. “But the separation between commercial retail facing and the premium on-premise fine wine is widening because that’s where the challenge is at the moment,” he says. “The Covid effect has impacted businesses very differently depending on their business model. Some are doing better than last year, but a significant number are finding it tough at the moment.”

Board Report - Q&A (NZW) new board members New Zealand Winegrowers introduced four new board members after the recent election. Winepress asks how they’ll help protect and promote the interests of New Zealand’s largest winegrowing region.

Emma Taylor Emma is a consultant viticulturist based in Hawke’s Bay. What do you bring to the board?

I have a passion for viticulture. The grapes we can grow in New Zealand cannot be replicated elsewhere and that is something we need to protect. There are always multiple challenges facing an industry, and every season we make innovations to adapt to challenges. I would hope that my knowledge of viticulture, connection with growers, experience with water issues and understanding of research would bring a practical aspect to decisions made around the table.

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How can the NZW board balance the interests of smaller regions with the needs of Marlborough’s industry?

This is always a challenge, but I believe there are a lot of interests that are similar no matter the region. Every region is going to be facing challenges around water use, labour issues, and communications with their international consumers.

Ensuring everyone is being heard is key to understanding where and how NZW resource is best concentrated.

Michael Henley Michael is the Hawke’s Bay-based chief executive at Aotearoa NZ Fine Wine Estates (AONZ).

What do you bring to the board?

Representing AONZ means that I have a vested interest and involvement in the Hawke’s Bay, Marlborough, North Canterbury and Central Otago wine regions. I have been working in the New Zealand wine industry for over 20 years, working with small and medium sized producers in multiple markets and channels. I bring contacts and extensive knowledge of both domestic and international markets. I have been involved with local winegrowing association boards and, therefore, I have a good understanding of the challenges facing member-based organisations.

How can the NZW board balance the interests of smaller regions with the needs of Marlborough’s industry?

I believe the needs of many of the premium producers based in Marlborough can be aligned to the interests of the smaller regions. The smaller, quality focussed producers want NZW to help them with advocacy, compliance and marketing the premium positioning of New Zealand wine in the same way that the producers from the smaller regions require. It is really important that NZW works collaboratively, listens to all members and determines a strategy that can help benefit all.

Misha Wilkinson Misha owns boutique Central Otago winery Misha’s Vineyard, which exports to 15 countries.

What do you bring to the board?

I bring extensive experience in strategic marketing, having worked in the IT sector with Fortune 500 companies and Government, as well as the arts and across various regions and countries. I also bring a lot of knowledge of the Asia Pacific region, having been based there for 17 years heading up multicountry marketing teams. The next 20 years will not be the same as the last 20 years as we need to build pathways for our premium wine into Asia to expand and diversify the New Zealand wine brand.

How can the NZW board balance the interests of smaller regions with the needs of Marlborough’s industry?

We’re a member organisation with 694 growers and 717 wineries across 10 regions in New Zealand. The NZW board is in a much better position to navigate the future when the representation on that board reflects the diversity of our industry

Tim Rose Tim is a director at Rose Ag, one of the first businesses to plant vines in Marlborough.

What do you bring to the board?

My background is property and general management, much of it overseas, so hopefully I bring different perspectives to industry issues. Having my professional experience in larger companies, while now being in a family business, allows me to understand different situations. I am also the only grower on the board.

How can the NZW board balance the interests of smaller regions with the needs of Marlborough’s industry?

The prevailing business model in Marlborough of larger wineries and vineyards contrasts with many of the smaller regions. But as we have experienced in Marlborough, smaller and medium sized wineries are complementary to the New Zealand wine story and its reputation and are often incubators for innovation and new ideas. Both models bring balance. Internationally, both models are going to continue to be challenged by our international competitors, but the unified platform of New Zealand’s wine reputation is critical for our continued success.

Winepress November 2020 / 19

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Snap Shot

Rocketing export numbers, driven by soaring Sauvignon sales, don’t tell the full story of Marlborough wine companies operating in a Covid-19 world. In the first of a series of snapshots, SOPHIE PREECE talks to four Marlborough wine companies of varying sizes and models about their experience.

Glover Family Vineyards - Zephyr Wine “We are going to end up with two very defined business models in the one industry,” says Zephyr Wine’s Ben Glover, describing a growing chasm in Marlborough. Covid-19’s boost to large retail players and bulk wine exports has sped up a situation he’d expected to see in five or six years, with Marlborough’s biggest operators on an entirely different playing field to its smaller ones. That’s going to make initiatives like Appellation Marlborough Wine, championing smaller companies and strong grower relationships, key from here on in, Ben says.

He notes that while a handful of major companies have had “three Christmases this year”, thanks to their global retail positioning, smaller companies like the family-owned Zephyr have also enjoyed better than expected sales. Onpremise has suffered drastically globally, but Zephyr and others have looked to “a diverse channel mix across varying markets” to make up that shortfall, he says. And Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has proven a good wine for tough times, offering quality at a price point people perhaps turn to when their Sancerre or Chablis proves too expensive, he adds.

Zephyr’s sales have been stable, rather than plummeting 20-30% as he had feared, but Ben is still cautious about the outlook. “In the short term everyone is happy, or quietly content, but we just don’t know how the long term will go... it is the next 18 to 24 months that will really reveal the true Covid-19 impacts.”

“We are going to end up with two very defined business models in the one industry.”

Ben Glover

Deep Down Wines “It’s been such an awesome year”, isn’t a comment you might expect from a small wine producer dependent on the restaurant trade in the midst of a global pandemic. But Clive Dougall says Covid-19 has barely broken the stride of Deep Down Wines, which was launched just six months before New Zealand went into lockdown.

Deep Down is a small, organic, low input wine brand with almost all its sales through restaurants. So the momentum that’s continued throughout Covid-19 is undeniably “ridiculous” says Clive, Deep Down’s co-founder and winemaker.

The uptake was swift when he and business partner Peter Lorimer launched in September last year, and found wine bars, restaurants and distributors eager to meet, thanks to a global and growing appetite for authentic wines with natural roots and a transparent story. “And delicious wine, of course. That’s what it’s all about.”

That appetite has continued throughout the pandemic, with all Deep Down’s distributors – in the US, UK, Australia and Belgium – placing their second orders, and in some cases selling the wine through small independent retailers, when restaurants are closed. However, in New Zealand it has remained 99% on premise “and we’re highly protective of keeping that proposition”, says Clive. “We’re just starting out and still growing so the high demand is really encouraging.”

He doesn’t think Deep Down’s success story reflects the position of all small producers, with the right time, right place, right product combination enhanced by Deep Down’s newness, “when there aren’t many new products around”. It also helps that they are “slightly premium” but not super premium, and that their volumes are small, with 300 to 400 cases for New Zealand, not thousands. “But for our first year it’s been amazing.”

20 / Winepress November 2020

PROTECT

Small and Small “We are making wine while the sun shines,” says Claudia Small, of Small and Small’s “insane” sales through the Covid pandemic. The family-run wine company sells solely through Naked Wines, an online platform that deals direct with consumers and delivers to the door in the UK, US and Australia, so was perfectly positioned to meet lockdown demand. “The UK had to shut their website for a few days because they got overwhelmed, and they stopped taking new customers” says Claudia.

Covid-19 restrictions initially saw Naked Wines limit sales to prepacked cases, and since Small and Small wines were ready-and-waiting, they flew out the door.

That was good timing, but Claudia also credits the small “information gap” between Naked Wines and its customers and winemakers, making it nimble. That meant that by May Small and Small already had their first increase in order and could buy more wine to meet the demand, and by the end of October, all their 2020 Sauvignons had been shipped to market.

Claudia would normally need to head overseas for a Naked Wines sales trip, but instead did a “chatty” Zoom event with a winemaker in Australia and another in France. That freed the viticulturist up to prune the Small’s Brookby Rd vineyard, where she has continued to work through spring, relieving some of the labour pressure brought on by New Zealand’s closed borders.

The past eight months have been great for the company, but she’s not holding her breath for more of the same. “The recession is going to hit, the depression is going to hit, and what is that going to look like? We are making wine while the sun shines, and not overcommitting.”

“We are making wine while the sun shines, and not overcommitting.”

Claudia Small

Hans Herzog Estate “I think this is karma,” says Therese Herzog, of Hans Herzog Estate’s resilience through tough times. “Because we have invested half of our life, seven days a week.” Her vigneron husband Hans is entirely hands-on in growing, harvesting and making wine from their small organic Rapaura vineyard. And the couple have been just as hands-on when it comes to selling, spending the past 20 years earning a loyal following from “the best restaurants in Auckland”, says Therese. “I think that’s probably why we haven’t noticed any decrease in our sales... We have this relationship and they know whatever Hans does it will be of superior quality.”

When the two lockdowns hit Auckland, Herzog’s retail sales went up, with their distributor explaining that those who would have been dining out wanted something “really good” when at home. And they were getting a “bargain” when they bought the Spirit of Marlborough for $70 from a wine shop, rather than $150 in a restaurant, Therese says. “Then, when the restaurant reopened, they ordered like crazy because they were extremely busy.”

The Herzogs typically sell 70% of their wine domestically, with half of it through their cellar door and bistro, which will be closed until New Zealand’s borders open. “However, that means we have more time to look after our exports,” says Therese. “This is the part you have to make up for by going out and exporting more than we used to.”

She and Hans have experienced global financial crises in the past, including two when they lived in Switzerland.

“The past 40 years have shown me we don’t need to worry about this,” she says. “The wine lovers of the world will always embrace such wines.”

Certainly, there was no hesitation from customers when Herzog wines were matched with a six-course dinner at Sofitel Wellington as part of last month’s Wellington on a Plate. The event was overbooked despite the $295 price tag, says Therese. “The Sofitel is very good to us… The local people are really fond of our wines and they support us greatly.” She also thinks people are keen to support events when they come around. “And they need to spend their money somewhere, since they can’t go anywhere else.”

Winepress November 2020 / 21

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Vintage Countdown Skilled foreign vintage workers ready and waiting SOPHIE PREECE

EXPEDITING APPROVALS for international vintage workers stranded in New Zealand is the “highest and most urgent priority” of a labour think tank in Marlborough.

Vintage 2021 will require a “small army” of New Zealanders, trained by seasoned cellar hands, says Brendon Burns, chair of the Marlborough Regional Skills Leadership Group (RSLG). “We have a big challenge in vintage 2021 and one of our key tasks is to try and secure those visa holders to get into wineries as soon as possible, and start training Kiwis.”

Two thirds of Marlborough’s 2020 vintage workforce was from overseas, according to a Wine Marlborough remuneration survey, with 490 on working holiday visas and 431 on Essential Skills - Approval in Principle (AIP).

Another 20% of the cellar crew were permanent staff, while just 14% were New Zealand seasonal vintage workers.

Covid-19 paints a completely different picture for the looming vintage, with most of the foreign workforce locked out by closed borders. There are 210 experienced international vintage workers still in New Zealand from 2020’s harvest, and they’ll be a vital resource to train up workers for the remaining 800 positions, says Brendon.

“Everyone who has worked vintage knows you are under enormous pressure and big days, and you don’t need someone who is not up to speed.”

While he is confident AIPs will be turned around in time for vintage, the system needs to be expedited to ensure they’re available far sooner, he says. The RLSG - which contains regional industry leaders, economic development agencies, iwi, union and Government representatives - has been communicating with stakeholders and Government to ensure the message is getting across, he says. “It doesn’t matter what the solution is as long as you get those people into the wineries now.”

22 / Winepress November 2020

Marlborough’s RLSG is one of 15 regional groups established to ensure regions have the future skills and workforce they need. Last month the Marlborough group released a Local Insights Report, looking at some of the challenges and opportunities facing the region, which was struggling with labour issues before Covid-19 pulled the rug out from under the feet of industries like wine.

The report notes that restrictions carried on the coattails of the pandemic could influence a “paradigm shift” in terms of how employers source their labour supply “and, in doing so, help resolve some of Marlborough’s longer-term labour market issues”. One of the opportunities promoted by the RLSG is in creating year-round employment, to “combat the reluctance” of locals to take up seasonal positions. It suggests a “labour hire company” approach could see people employed in vineyards for busy harvest or pruning periods, then utilised in other industries at other times of the year.

“Further work is required from Government and wider industry to ensure sustainable employment is offered, along with the opportunity to upskill,” says the report.

They also raise the opportunities of adapting local training, with polytechnics bridging skills gaps and becoming more flexible in how they offer their courses and respond to industry needs. Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology has already made moves in that direction, with more frequent student intakes, and a new 19-week cellar hand course.

Brendon says Covid-19 has revealed the vulnerability of being dependent on migrant labour – including the 3000 Recognised Seasonal Employer scheme workers who typically come from the Pacific Islands to work in Marlborough vineyards in the busy winter pruning and summer growing seasons. “Clearly there is going to be a major shift here - whether it’s permanent or just temporary is unclear,” he says. “But we’ve had a huge reliance - perhaps in hindsight an overreliance - on imported labour.”

GROW

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“A combination of these factors has seen a very active market where all older listings have now been sold through and all current listings are selling quickly.” And the listings keep coming, as vendors recognise the “excellent sales climate”, he adds. “We are still seeing good amounts of stock coming to the market.”

As well as low interest rates and pandemic returnees, the market is being influenced by current investors choosing to trade up into a larger property or trade down into something smaller, he says. “Many local buyers are looking at expanding their land holdings to create better economies of scale within their existing business, or families working through succession and selling off larger assets to free up capital to then downsize or invest in the residential market, which also remains strong.”

There is also an increase in vineyard investment from people looking to diversify their portfolio from other sectors “to purchase assets that have solid returns and are in the primary sector”, Mike says. To attract their interest, vineyards have to be a solid long-term investment, he adds.

With continued strong demand for wine throughout the fast-moving consumer goods network, and a potentially lower crop in 2021 due to spring frosts, he expects to see demand and prices remain strong. “With the forecast for low interest rates over the next wee while, and a continual influx of expats and other Kiwis, we see great opportunities for both buyers and vendors going forward.”

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Winepress November 2020 / 23

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Plastic Fantastic Transforming vineyard waste SOPHIE PREECE

TURNING PLASTIC waste into vineyard posts is a “fantastic idea that makes a huge amount of sense”, says Marlborough grape grower Ben McLauchlan. “But we want to ground truth it and give people an opportunity to come and see.”

Ben recently hosted a Future Post open day on his Wratts Rd property, where several rows of sturdy plastic posts had been installed the day before, alongside trials of pine and steel posts on the block. He says the block allows growers and wine companies to explore solid alternatives to copper, chromium and arsenic (CCA) treated posts, which are known to leach heavy metals into the soil, including when stockpiled, and are difficult to dispose of when broken.

Future Post founder Jerome Wenzlick attended the open day and explains that each leachate-free and UVstable post is made from hundreds of used milk bottles and thousands of soft plastic bags. The product won the Fieldays Innovation Award last year and has enabled soft plastic collection to resume in several parts of the North Island, as the company welcomes increasing amounts of waste. Jerome says in the past six months, sales at Future Post have boomed, and so has the company’s ability to take waste, with 145 tonnes of plastic accepted each month, including 45 tonnes of soft plastics.

The business began two and a half years ago, after Jerome - a fencer by trade - struggled to ram posts into land

once used as a rubbish dump. As posts broke in plasticcontaminated soil, he came up with a solution to both problems, then charged up his Kiwi ingenuity to establish a factory in an empty shed at Waiuku, with a New Zealanddesigned machine to create the posts. Soft and hard plastic waste is cut up into small chips of 10mm flakes and mixed in a “recipe” of ratios, before being extruded and forced into a mould, “so a post comes out the end”, he says.

As well as offering vineyards a better post option, Future Post can take plastic vine guards and broken irrigation pipes out of the waste stream, and repurpose them into posts, says Jerome, who is planning to open a factory in the South Island.

He says the posts, which have been trialled at a couple of other Marlborough vineyards in recent years, are as strong as their wooden counterparts, but with more flexibility, reducing the risk of breakage. If they do break, they can be sent back to the factory and be reused all over again, he adds.

New Zealand Winegrowers recently released new sustainability guidelines for the storage and disposal of CCA treated posts, with Marlborough home to more than 15 million of them. According to the guidelines, 2% to 5% of the posts are broken each harvest “depending on soil type, soil moisture content and the operation of the harvesters” resulting in 11 to 29 posts per hectare per year being stored or disposed of.

The guidelines emphasise that growers must never burn treated wood, which leaches toxic fumes into the environment. It gives guidelines for storage, including ways to prevent leaching by covering the piles if possible, and having them on an impervious surface at least 20 metres from a waterway.

Ben is on the cusp of a new vineyard development, and says information on the leaching of treated posts has him “thinking twice” about people handling them. Driving the Future Posts in the day before the open day, he was impressed with their strength and ease of use. “I can’t see why we wouldn’t go forward with them.”

Ben McLauchlan, Jerome Wenzlick and Future Post representative Diana Jamieson

24 / Winepress November 2020

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Young Vit 2020 Green light for Marlborough viticulturist SOPHIE PREECE

NO TRAFFIC lights in the streets and no stop lights on vineyard expansion. That’s how Rhys Hall described Marlborough to his audience at the Corteva New Zealand Young Viticulturist Competition last month, before taking the national title.

“We like to think of ourselves as the big industry in a small, close-knit community where you can work hard and play hard,” said Indevin’s Bankhouse assistant manager, happily praising the region. “Let’s talk about the weather,” he continued, sharing insights into frosts and sleepless nights, followed by sunshine and t-shirts, even during winter. “If Donald Trump lived here, he would not need fake tan.”

Rhys’s speech at the finals was an opportunity to wax lyrical about a region he loves, while flexing skills honed since his first “nerve-racking” speech at the 2019 regional competition, facing 120 industry members. “I had to improve on that. I joined Toastmasters and that was great for my public speaking confidence,” says Rhys. “I still don’t enjoy it a lot, but it’s definitely easier for me.” That’s just one of the ways the young viticulturist competition has helped him grow his talents, he says. “It’s good because you see your strengths and what you can improve on.”

Rhys grew up in a rural corner of England and says summers with his grandparents in Spain, visiting bodegas and tasting wines, gave him an interest in seeing how they grew. He moved to Auckland when he was 11 and knew from an early age that he wanted to do something in production.

By the time he left school, viticulture appealed, but he wanted to keep his options open, so studied horticulture at Massey University. Summer internships in vineyards helped firm his resolve, because “something fascinated me about the production system”, he says. So when he was offered a job by Farmlands, with kiwifruit in Tauranga or grapes in Marlborough, he immediately opted for the vines, working as a “viticulture champion” at the Farmlands store.

After 18 months he was ready to get experience in the rows, so applied for a casual job driving tractors for Indevin. He hasn’t looked back, seeing Bankhouse as an amazing opportunity to work on a “massive site” with major expansion plans. The Waihopai vineyard already has 600 26 / Winepress November 2020

“I feel I have a lot more confidence in who I am and what kind of viticulturist I am.”

Rhys Hall planted hectares, with another 900ha to be planted over the next five years. “That will be an exciting expansion,” says Rhys, who relishes the challenges and opportunities inherent in operating at such a large scale.

Frosts can impact one portion of the vineyard completely differently to another, with potential for “massive temperature difference”, he says. And when it comes to logistics and planning at that scale, “you have to think a bit differently and do things differently”. His Bankhouse role has him managing large teams of people, which has been another huge growth area. “I try to keep it simple. Everybody is different and you have to understand them as a person - understand their goals and what they want out of their job.” Rhys has learned that communicating clearly with people “solves 90% of the problems”.

If Bankhouse has taught him a lot, the young viticulturist competition has been the icing on the cake. “I feel I have a lot more confidence in who I am and what kind of viticulturist I am.”

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Generation Y-ine Callum Haynes on the culture, challenge and celebration of wine SOPHIE PREECE

CALLUM HAYNES loves making wine, but he’s even more interested in crafting a welcoming winemaking culture. “I want people to come into work and love what they do.”

The Matua vintage winemaker, who was placed second in the recent Tonnellerie de Mercurey Marlborough Young Winemaker competition, is also focussed on a “more sustainable agenda”, reducing waste in wine. “As great as it is to make funky wines, I would rather make a difference,” he says. “Looking after the planet for future generations, so everyone can keep enjoying wine. And that people are happy in the workplace and love what they do.”

That kind of change-agenda is reflected in the younger generation coming up through the wine industry, he says.

“I like to think there are going to be some big changes in the wine industry and it is going to come from this younger generation.” Those change-makers were well represented at the young winemaker competition, where contestants blended and marketed wines, did a cellar challenge and lab test, and gave a speech via Zoom, due to Covid-19 restrictions. “I think there’s passion in our industry,” says Callum. “You know when people’s eyes light up and you see the spark - that’s what I love.”

When he left high school, the Cantabrian wanted to be a brewer, planning to combine his love of chemistry with his love of beer. Unsure how to go about that career, he went to Lincoln University to study winemaking and viticulture instead, and dreams of brewing were soon overwhelmed. “It very quickly became clear that I prefer the

28 / Winepress November 2020

challenge of wine, because it’s not reproducible,” he says, delighted by the variability of wine, dependent on vintage and winemaker decisions. “Every challenge is different. It’s a new thing to work with. I like the uniqueness of the wine industry.”

When he finished university, Callum set his sights on adventure, because “my belief is that anyone who is good in their role has experienced an array of things”, he says. “I would much rather be experience rich than cash rich.”

Three years working at Delegat in Marlborough – the first during his studies and the final two on the graduate winemaker programme – bolstered his adventure bank account and he set off to work a vintage in Australia, finding some “amazing people” at a winery in Langhorne Creek, on South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula.

From there he went to Germany for six months, putting four years of high school German to good use on a site where no one spoke English. “It was a very strong dialect – I spent a week or two being lost, but then you embrace it and deal with what you have got.” After three months of vintaging and three months of exploring, he went to

“I think there’s passion in our industry.”

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Western Australia for his first experience of a small winery, which sourced fruit from across the country. That artisanal focus, and valuable mentorship, changed his perspective, “and now that I am back in big wineries, that’s something I never want to lose”, he says.

Six months of wine work earned him six months of backpacking and hitchhiking in eastern Europe, before returning to the same small winery to earn money for another six months of travel, exploring South America. The eventual call of home meant he was back in New Zealand last summer, and by harvest he was in the role of vintage winemaker at Matua. “I had some hesitation about coming into a big corporation after working in a small place,” he admits. “But I love it here. There is an amazing culture at Matua.”

Just as mentors changed his journey when in Western Australia, Matua’s team have been influential in helping Callum develop. “I spend a lot of time soaking up knowledge from Peter Russell, the winner of this year’s (young winemaker) competition,” he says. “Learning is so much easier when it’s taught by the passionate and driven - all I need to do is have willing and listening ears.”

National final for Marlborough’s top young winemaker As this magazine went to print, Matua’s production winemaker Peter Russell was busy preparing for the national final of the 2020 Tonnellerie de Mercurey New Zealand Young Winemaker of the Year. The national final is to be held at Eastern Institute of Technology in Hawke’s Bay on November 6, with Peter going up against Ben McNab, assistant Winemaker at Matahiwi Estate in Hawke’s Bay, and Ben Tombs, assistant winemaker at Peregrine Wines, Central Otago. Apart from being crowned the, the national winner will take home a prize package that includes a travel grant to visit the cooperage (Tonnellerie) in Burgundy, be an associate judge in the New World Wine Awards and review wines in DrinksBiz magazine.

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Industry Pioneer Frank Yukich - the passing of a prophet TESSA NICHOLSON

TO TO TWOWE E WE MM M LELE OOLHEHAAO HA NN NNE ENVVENE E VE DD YYD Y NN N OO O WW W !! !

DETERMINED, VISIONARY, indefatigable and a prophet.

These are descriptions offered by those who knew Frank Yukich, who died on October 21, aged 89.

Frank was the stuff legends are made of, and his singleminded dedication to placing New Zealand wine on the world map changed this country’s wine industry forever.

His legendary status as the head of Montana Wines is irrefutable. The company begun by his father Ivan back in the 1940s was for many years the producer of some pretty ordinary wines on a small scale. It was in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, when Frank was heading the company, that the vision changed somewhat. He wanted to move away from producing sheer volumes of wine, to producing wines of quality that would take New Zealand to the world.

Looking to expand the company’s holdings outside of Auckland, Mangatangi and Gisborne, he considered Hawke’s Bay, but looked to Marlborough instead, after speaking to young DSIR scientist Wayne Thomas – soon to become Montana Wines’ head viticulturist- about growing wines that could be exported. Frank always gave credit to Wayne for convincing him to have a look at the top of the South Island.

In July 1973, Frank and Wayne flew into Marlborough to look at tracts of land with real estate agent John Marris.

Aware that if the landowners knew what the men were looking to do, prices would spike, the entire trip to

Frank places a silver coin in a hole in which a vine is to be planted, in 1973. Phot from Marlborough Museum

Marlborough was clandestine. Under the auspices of a company known as Cloudy Bay Properties, (yeah, that’s part of the legend), Frank and Wayne drove around the province settling on nine potential properties. Times were tough in Marlborough at the time and Frank capitalised on that. Despite none of the properties actually being on the market, he convinced nine owners to sell straight out, without telling anyone what he wanted the land for. Those nine properties equated to 2,900 acres (1,175 hectares), and cost $1.4 million.

It was all very well having a great idea, but a non-refundable deposit of 10% was required to secure the deals. Given the Montana board had no idea what Frank was up to, he had to raise the funds himself, which he did by mortgaging his own Auckland property.

Once the deposits had been made, Frank told the board about the Marlborough expansion, looking for a refund of the deposit. But the board refused to endorse the land purchases, leaving Frank facing a $140,000 debt.

In the end, Wayne Thomas, who was in the US at the time, asked four professors from the University of California, Davis, to back up research showing Marlborough had the

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ideal climate and soils to grow grapes, and the Montana board agreed to approve the purchases.

Marlborough residents still had no idea who had bought the land, or what for. That was to change in August, when Frank sent his team down to begin work on the farms, recalls viticulturist Jim Hamilton. “We were pulling the fences out, knocking everything down and Montana hadn’t even paid for them.”

At the time it was the largest vineyard development undertaken in New Zealand, and Frank was not about to let it slip under the radar. He paid for wine industry stalwarts to fly down to Blenheim for the traditional planting of the first vine and, as most looked on skeptically, prophesised that “wines from here will be world famous”.

To say he was audacious is an understatement. Take his purchase later in 1973, of the site where the Pernod Ricard winery is now. Jim remembers Frank meeting with the owners of the Riverlands industrial site, which was located next door, to discuss buying part of the property to build a winery on. “They got into a dispute about how much land

Frank and then Prime Minister John Key at Brancott Estate in 2009, the 30th anniversary of its first Sauvignon Blanc.

Frank wanted and how much he was prepared to pay for it. So Frank walked out and bought the farm next door, the whole 600 acre farm next to their industrial area.”

Then there’s his call to place a massive banner across Queen Charlotte Sound/Tōtaranui, which would say “welcome to Montana”, ensuring all Cook Strait ferry passengers remembered the wine company’s name. It never eventuated, but was another example of thinking well outside the square.

“Wines from here will be world famous.”

Frank Yukich Many years later, Frank was honoured by Pernod Ricard for his foresight at moving to Marlborough. “Without leaps of imagination or dreaming, we lose the excitement of possibilities,” he said at the time. “Dreaming after all is a form of planning. To accomplish great things, we must not only act, but also dream; not only plan but also believe.”

He dreamed big and he achieved great things, but it wasn’t enough for him to stay on at Montana. By 1974, just a year after his vision to expand the company had played out, the board let him go. He later became a shareholder in Penfolds New Zealand and straight away encouraged the board to move into Marlborough. His vision was about to expand outside of the Montana vineyards.

The rest, as they say, is history. Wayne says Frank was an incredible man, “a real worker and a real visionary…

Probably the biggest the New Zealand wine industry has ever seen”.

Where would Marlborough be now, if he hadn’t taken that punt back in 1973? Where would the New Zealand wine industry be if Marlborough had not later discovered how well Sauvignon Blanc grew in this region?

It is very fitting that 10 days after Frank died, the Marlborough wine industry celebrated the results of the 2020 Marlborough Wine Show. The 49 Gold Medals delivered to the region’s wines are living proof that Frank’s prophesy that “wines from here will be world famous”, was spot on.

Quotes in this story are from a book Tessa Nicholson is writing on the people and events that have shaped Marlborough’s wine industry. The book is due to be released to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the first vine planted

by Frank Yukich in 1973.

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PROTECT

Biosecurity Watch Chilean Needle Grass JIM HERDMAN

CHILEAN NEEDLE grass now occupies approximately 3,700 hectares in New Zealand, in Marlborough, North Canterbury and Hawkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay. In the hot, dry summers in these regions, Chilean needle grass (CNG, Nassella neesiana) can rapidly establish in the absence of competition from other pasture species that tend to die off during this period. CNG has the potential to spread into over 15 million hectares of similarly dry land on the east coast of New Zealand and threaten agriculture and horticulture industries.

CNG infestation makes land unsuitable for sheep farming and aggressively out-competes and displaces pasture and desirable vegetation. In vineyards, CNG infests headlands, under vine areas, and inter-row spaces and surrounding hills, and is difficult to manage and control.

October, November, and December are the best months to look for CNG in the vineyard, surrounding headlands and pasture. At this time of year, it puts up distinctive seed spikelets of a reddish-purple colour, which fade to a light brown as the seeds mature. The seeds consist of a seed head about 10mm in length and a long twisted awn. The awn has short hairs down its length, enabling it to hook onto anything that passes. The sharp tip of the seed head can penetrate skin and clothing.

CNG has been a problem weed for farmers in Marlborough since the initial find and identification, back in 1946. It is also causes vineyard management issues in Marlborough, particularly in the lower Awatere Valley and around Blind River, where it is well established. Landowners and government have attempted over the years to restrict and halt the spread, and in recent years the Chilean Needle Grass Action Group (CNGAG) has been set up by landowners to champion control. I took the time to catch up with members of the group and vineyard staff who have been working hard to identify new ways to combat this weed successfully.

Annette Litherland works for the New Zealand Landcare Trust and supports the CNGAG, and has also been in charge of delivering the biosecurity earthquake recovery project. She has seen some successes in trials, including chemical topping, spot spraying, and direct drilling of competitive pasture species. She is also interested in how soil health and fertility can affect CNG and its ability to colonise areas. Annette is confident that new and effective management options can be found to reduce infestations in affected vineyards.

Warwick Lissaman has been part of the CNGAG for many years and has acted as its co-chairperson for much of that time. He sees one of the groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main achievements as raising awareness around CNG control and management.

As a result of increased awareness, he has seen a significant shift in landowner attitudes and the normalising of best practices around CNG vector control measures. Another achievement of the CNGAG is helping to acquire funding to research the best strategies to manage CNG. Warwick says the work done so far shows that landowners can definitely Ryan Zhiguang Liu and Matt Gallop at Awatere Hills vineyard with an interrow planted out in rye grass to suppress CNG.

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reduce CNG density using an integrated land management approach. The CNGAG were also involved in the development of the rules for the Regional Pest Management Plan (RPMP) to minimise the risk of spread.

Ryan Zhiguang Liu and Matt Gallop at Awatere Hills vineyard, a Constellation Brands New Zealand vineyard at Blind River, have been working on several trials with the CNGAG, including hard mowing (timing-critical), spot spraying, and chemical topping trials. The trial showing the most promise for vineyards is having every second interrow sward sprayed out with three rounds of herbicide (spring to summer) and left fallow, then direct drilling without cultivation in autumn with 30kg/ha Nui rye grass.

All machinery traffic (spraying rounds) can operate on the other row for a year except for a few trimming and leaf plucking rounds. The result has been very encouraging Ryan expects low (if any) reinfestation of CNG in the sown area, and there have been no machinery traffic issues. Over time the CNG may likely return, but the density will be significantly reduced.

The herbicide Taskforce has proven to be effective, but it cannot be used in vineyards due to the active ingredient flupropanate leaving residue in grapes. Taskforce can be used in areas where grapes are not present, but reseeding (drilling if possible) with a competitive pasture species is an essential part of treatment to reduce CNG reinfestation.

Glyphosate is being spot-sprayed on CNG in vineyards, and while it temporarily reduces the number/density of CNG plants and makes properties comply with the RPMP, it does not prevent the germination of CNG seed in the cleared space. Ongoing research suggests there are potentially several competitive crops or pasture that could be introduced, which will reduce the re-establishment rate of CNG after treatment.

Identifying and restricting unnecessary access to areas known to be infested is extremely important to avoid spreading CNG. This may involve fencing off areas and the use of warning signage. Ensure anyone working in these

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The interrow direct drilled with rye grass no cultivation.

areas follows biosecurity best practices and thoroughly cleans all equipment, machinery, and vehicles before leaving. People need to clean boots and carefully check clothing for any seeds. Ensure that your staff can identify CNG or have access to reference material so they will be able to identify it if it arrives on your site. Early detection and eradication is the best control measure so being able to identify the grass is crucial.

In Marlborough, the RPMP requires all landowners and occupiers with CNG to destroy it each year before seed set, unless a management plan is agreed with the Marlborough District Council.

For those properties where CNG is not present, it pays to have proactive biosecurity strategies in place to ensure it does not establish. Developing a biosecurity plan and undertaking hygiene protocols will help reduce the risk of CNG in your vineyard. Key prevention strategies to exclude CNG from your property include ensuring all vehicles and machinery coming on to your site are clean and free of plant material, seeds, and soil.

New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) will keep members up to date with any new management recommendations as the CNG research projects progress. If you suspect you have a new infestation of Chilean needle grass in your vineyard or need information regarding CNG, you should contact the Marlborough District Council biosecurity team in the first instance. Biosecurity staff at NZW are also happy to help members with any inquiries - email us on: biosecurity@ nzwine.com ROAD LEGAL 4X4 WITH HI LOW RATIO PUSH BUTTON DIFF LOCK VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL AIR CONDITIONING POWER STEERING FORWARD COLLISION RADAR LANE CHANGE ALERT DRIVERS AIR BAG LARGE DECK 2M X 1.4M THREE YEAR WARRANTY TOUCH SCREEN STEREO

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Winepress November 2020 / 33

Industry News Wine Marlborough Update

BRI Open Day

VANCE KERSLAKE Appeals against the Marlborough Environment Plan decisions continue to slog through the Environment Court process. The Marlborough District Council has commissioned an external review on options for implementing the National Policy Statement and National Environmental Standard for Freshwater, and will then assess the impact on the appeals. In the meantime, the appeal parties agreed not to delay the process, because the timetable is drawn out enough to provide sufficient time for the review.

The second monthly vintage update was sent out at the end of October (wine-marlborough.co.nz/resources/).

Wineries are working hard to recruit staff for vintage, but there is still a lot to be done to secure the workforce needed.

A refresh of the Marlborough Labour Market Survey has been commissioned from Fruition – your cooperation would be very much appreciated if you are contacted by them.

More than 100 wine industry members attended a recent open day at the Bragato Research Institute research winery, to look at the facilities and services offered. Winemakers, grape growers, and wine company staff were impressed with the extent of the capabilities of the facility, and the bespoke nature of much of the equipment, says business development manager Augusta van Wijk. For many it was their first time inside the winery since it opened in February, with access restricted during vintage and lockdown. The research winery trials equipment and technologies, winemaking processes, and sustainable winemaking and winery operations. It also provides commercial research winemaking services to suppliers and industry, and is available for trials for vintage 2021.

Kōparepare Whitehaven Wine Company relaunched its refreshed Kōparepare wine brand last month, with revenue from the first 125 cases sold online donated to LegaSea, a nonprofit organisation committed to the protection of New Zealand’s marine environment. Going forward, Whitehaven will donate $1 from every bottle of Kōparepare sold. Brand ambassador Samantha White is the daughter of Whitehaven founders Sue and Greg White and a staunch advocate for sustainability. “The protection and restoration of our oceans is not only a global concern but it is an issue that is deeply personal to me and something I feel passionate about. We are all responsible for change, and Kōparepare is a way for Whitehaven to invite wine consumers to be a part of the community that will action that change.” koparepare.co.nz

Research winery manager Dr Tanya Rutan explains the different tank options for wine trials.

Botrytis Test Strips A company that made its name with a five-minute pregnancy test has utilised the technology to measure botrytis infection. The UK-based company Mologic was established after its co-founder Paul Davis created the Clearblue pregnancy test in the late 1980s, in the first commercial application of lateral flow technology. It’s currently working on a 10-minute Covid-19 test, with trials at Heathrow Airport. Meanwhile, Mologic has continued work with Champagne houses in Epernay, and more recently with the Australian wine industry, to deploy a fiveminute “pregnancy style”, test, as a simple and low cost way to identify and measure botrytis infection in must. Project leader Dr Alison Wakeham says that work has led to the recent launch of the Botrytis Alert test strips, and Mologic has started work with a New Zealand winery. For more information go to botrytisalert.co.uk

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Montana Man Moves Three decades after he became a cellar hand at Montana’s Tamaki winery, Patrick Materman has moved to Indevin Group. Patrick came to Marlborough with Montana in 1994 and has worked with Brancott Estate ever since, becoming chief winemaker when it was bought by Allied Domecq in 2001 and continuing when Pernod Ricard Winemakers New Zealand bought the company in 2005, most recently with the job of global winemaker.

Patrick says he is pleased to have joined New Zealand-owned Indevin, which he describes as a “fascinating business” that “flies a bit under the radar”.

Since it was founded in 2003, Indevin has become New Zealand’s largest wine producer, with more than 3,000 hectares of planted vineyards, and wineries in Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay, and Gisborne. Patrick says the company model has been disruptive, with a focus on partnering with wine retailers in Australia, the USA and the UK to develop wine brands at an industrial scale. It also works with large wine company partners in New Zealand, to deliver the wine they require.

It is a “pull” approach, driven by consumer demand, rather than the typical “push” of wine companies planting grapes, making wine and then seeking markets, he says.

Mechanical Shaking The 2020 vintage has reinforced the success of mechanical shaking for botrytis control, says viticultural advisor Mark Allen. “Despite the last two dry vintages, monitored blocks in 2020 again saw a 55% reduction in pre-harvest botrytis,” he says. The percentage reduction in botrytis is consistent every year, relative to the amount of disease pressure, he says. “In combination with a standard spray programme, mechanical shaking is a very effective cultural tool.”

Trials conducted last year indicated that early and late shaking were equally effective, although if the shaking is combined with crop reduction, it is better to wait until the bunches weigh more than 45 grams, he says.

Points to remember this season include: • Shaking can be combined with crop thinning and trash removal as a single pass. The harvester settings are adjusted accordingly.

• As a grower or vineyard manager, keep a close eye on the operation and check at least once an hour by placing a white tray under the harvester.

• Ensure your harvester or contractor’s harvester has shields over the conveyor belts to allow the trash to land on a white tray or board under the harvester for monitoring the amount of trash being removed.

• The harvester settings can be adjusted to remove the maximum amount of trash, which can be easily monitored on the white tray. Remember, the greater the amount of trash that can removed the better the botrytis control.

• Ensure that you fine-tune and monitor the harvester settings to achieve the best result.

“It’s a very different model to what most others in the industry are doing, and what I think is really strong about it is full partnership.”

Patrick’s role - head of winegrowing - includes acting as a conduit between overseas partners and the operations side of Indevin, translating market desires into planting and wine specifications. That includes input into the development of remaining land at Bankhouse Estate in Marlborough, “looking at what the needs are for the market and predicting what those needs are further out”. He notes that contracts with some major customers stretch out five or 10 years, “so there is a lot of surety around what that demand is”.

Patrick was chair of the inaugural International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration in 2016, and of the second successful event, Sauvignon 19 (see photo).

Mechanical shaking as a form of botrytis control was a serendipitous outcome of a trial to regulate crop loads, says Mark, who was involved in trials between 2011 and 2014, conducted by Plant & Food Research (PFR). “There is no other method that can guarantee a 55% reduction in botrytis if applied correctly.”

Trials are continuing this year with Thoughtful Viticulture and PFR to further investigate the response to mechanical shaking in relation to skin thickness and other metabolic changes which enhance the vines’ ability to reduce botrytis infection.

For more information, see the New Zealand Winegrowers fact sheet on mechanical shaking, or contact Mark on markallen@outlook.co.nz.

Winepress November 2020 / 35

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in December's Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by November 20. Due to uncertainty around Covid-19, there may be changes to some of these events. For more information, please use the contact supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

NOVEMBER 2 Working for Nature/Mahi mō te Taiao applications open (bit.ly/MahiMoTeTaio) 2-6 New Zealand Winegrowers Biosecurity Week 2020 (nzwine.com/biosecurity-week) 5-8 Rapaura Springs Bloom in the Boom 2020 6 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year, national final. EIT, Hawke’s Bay 8 Blood Sweat and Beers interwinery cycling champs 10 2020 Rosé Workshop - New Zealand Society for Viticulture & Oenology (nzsvo.org.nz) 13 Marlborough Lab Network Seminar & Trade Fair, 9am-5pm, Marlborough Convention Centre 18 Working Smarter and Leaner seminar, 2pm-3.30pm Marlborough Research Centre Theatre. RSVP to advocacy@winemarlborough.co.nz 18 Wine Marlborough Annual General Meeting, 4pm Marlborough Research Centre Theatre 18 An evening with Peta Mathias, sponsored by Hunter’s Wine (hunters.co.nz) 27 Working for Nature/Mahi mō te Taiao applications close FEBRUARY 12 Les Nuits Romantiques (''the Romantic nights") at Clos Henri APRIL 24 Whitehaven GrapeRide (graperide.co.nz) MAY 8

Saint Clair Vineyard Half (vineyardhalf.com)

Young Winemaker of the Year Nov 6

36 / Winepress November 2020

Blood, Sweat and Beers Nov 8

NZSVO Rose Workshop Nov 10

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