Wine Plus magazine No. 39 - Summer 2011

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THE WINE PLUS MAGAZINE

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Summer in Greece A summer in Greece means a true blessing from God. A summer in Greece is breath-taking coastlines and marvelous seas.

Running down a pine-covered hill in midday.

The sea being so close, you can breath the salt and the spray of the waves.

A summer in Greece is the sun and the heat.

It is the deafening music of cicadas filling the air.

Endless days at the company of seagulls circling slowly, soundlessly over the ever-rocking Aegean blue.

Nights under a maddening sky, lit by thousands of shooting stars.

A summer in Greece is casual, quiet, nonchalant.

Even this year’s difficult, challenging, critical summer, burdened by an unbearable... european fatigue, will still grace us with wonderful nights with refreshing dew.

And happiness will take off to neighbouring galaxies, with dinners in fragrant gardens, in terraces by the coast or city-center roofs.

Fresh fish and seafood, wonderful dishes in splendid simplicity, refreshing white wines and exciting reds.

Dear readers, This issue of the Wine Plus magazine -the first in Englishis a tribute to our great love for Greek summers.

The same summers that inspired poets and songwriters like Archiloch, Angelos Sikelianos, Oddyseas Elytis, Nikos Gatsos and Vassilis Tsitsanis.

An offering to our passion for Greek wines and exquisite Greek products.

I wish you a pleasent journey through its tasty pages.

Maria Netsika

Contents

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Heard it through the grapevine Wines in Vogue!

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Greek white wines

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Ouzo The Greek Eau de Vie

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Greek red wines

Greek cheeses and their wine companion

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Deli on the spot

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Eating in Thessaloniki

The jar with the sweet Sweet preserves, sweets in every sense of the word

A wine tasting safari in Greece The Greek Vineyard Up Close

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Retsina Are you ready to give into this very Greek taste of resin?

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Olive oil The Mediterranean elixir

Summer tastes in Greece A hot list of the-gastronomicmusts-while-travelling

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Summer in Greece Summer memories - small secrets reminisced

by Wine Plus magazine

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What to buy from Greece Delicacies from the Greek islands

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Eating in Athens

WINE PLUS magazine No 39 SUMMER 2011 Free press

Publisher WINE PLUS M. NETSIKA & SIA E.E. 5 Kariotaki St, 546 45 Thessaloniki Τ: +30 2310 888311 F: +30 2310 888312 e-mail: info@wineplus.gr www.wineplus.gr

Editor Maria Netsika Contributing Editors Giannis N. Baskosos, Eftihis Bletsas, Denni Kallivoka, Evi Kallini, Evi Karkiti, Maria Kopsahili, Melina Melikidou, Niki Mitarea, Kostis Zafirakis,

Translation Glossima & Wehrheim, Sakis Kazakis Photos Heinz Troll, George Adamopoulos

Design Red Fish Print M. Diamantidi S.A.

Heard it through the grapevine

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Heard it through the grapevine

Discover the Wine Roads of Greece

Assyrtico

Travel through some of the most renowned Greek vineyards. Stop at celebrated wineries to sample wines right where they are produced.

Seek out the traditional products of each region’s unique cuisine. Enjoy the natural beauty and explore the history that infuses the entire region. A trip along the Wine Roads of Greece offers countless great experiences.

One of Greece’s most fascinating and unique indigenous grape varieties. The most important grape of Santorini (see p. 21) has been successfully planted in other wine regions. We suggest the distinctive character and minerality of Assyrtiko 2010 from Wine Art Estate in Drama. Pleasant to drink young, but also very ageworthy.

(www.wineroads.gr, www.enoake.gr, www.enoap.gr, www.winesofcrete.gr)

Malagouzia

Sparkling wines

Top quality grape, a proven traveller all over Greece.

Taste the finesse of this hugely successful variety’ wines -from refreshingly dry to unctuously sweet- in Malagouzia 2010 from Alpha Estate in Amyndeon.

Springy, refreshing floral aromas with lovely citrus acidity.

Greek sparkling wines have become popular over the last years. Attractively packaged, Blink is made from Muscat of Alexandria grapes. Delicate, with a clean flirtatious nose, very fresh and attractive indeed.

Retsina This unique wine has been part of the Greek table since antiquity.

If you’re curious about this intensely aromatic wine, then we suggest starting with Retsina Malamatina.

Now in the second century of its history, the wine bottles the dreams and creativity of five generations of the Malamatinas family. We’re quite sure that you’ll become a fan.

Rosé wines

Dry wines of Samos

Nothing cools the warm weather quite like a glass of crisp, refreshing rosé and the oil-based cuisine of Greece seems to have a real affinity for the country’s best rosés, like Akakies from Kir Yianni in Amyndeon. Groovy, purply wine made from Xinomavro grape (see p. 8). Expect flavours and aromas of tomato and strawberry with hints of pepper.

There is nothing new about Samos sweet wines (see p. 22), but the aromatic finesse of the island’s dry wines, may be just the thing for a lazy-hazy summer afternoon.

Serve Psilés Corfés of Samos Coop as an aperitif. It’ll also go very happily with white fish dishes.

Rare Greek Grape varieties Apart from Greece’s renowned and distinguished gems -Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko and Xinomavrothere are several rare, up-andcoming grape varieties which, depending on the type and style of wine they yield, show impressive potential. Purple massive, wonderful Avaton from Gerovassiliou Estate in Epanomi is an example of a wine made from such varieties: Mavrotragano, Mavroudi, Limnio.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Maria Netsika

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A wine tasting safari in Greece

by Maria Netsika

I officially entered the Greek wine business at late 80’s. At that time Greek wine market was dominated by 4-5 big producers (Boutari, Tsantali, Kourtaki, Achaia Claus) whereas the current Greek wine renaissance has already started by new winemakers–rising stars (Domaine Gerovassiliou, Katoi, Strofilia, Château Lazaridi, Antonopoulos). This was the time when after a decade of experimental vinifications, Greek wines from international varieties were introduced in the market.

Twenty three years have passed since then, during which Greek wines have changed radically. These changes are related to a most impressive quality up scaling and an emerging pluralism of the wines’ character. Greek winemakers, barely 100 at the 80’s, have now almost reached 700. The number of labels in the market has increased even more, reaching in 2010 the 5.000! The cosmopolitan varieties, covering still less than 10% of the total vinegrowing surface, have excellently adapted at the Greek ecosystems. Successful implement of modern technology in vinification uncovered at last the unique quality of local grapes, thanks to a new generation of winemakers who combined international training with a newfound interest in Greece’s vast array of indigenous varieties. The most unique wines arguably are those made with the country’s most unique grapes, those that are indigenous to Greece; but a whole range of excellent wines are the product of the marriage between internationally known varietals and local grapes.

Today, Greek wines boast an impressive pluralism and range. A vast number of medals awarded at the most prestigious International Wine Competitions such as Vinalies Internationales, Mundus Vini, Selections Mondiales, Decanter Awards prove that quality of the wines has improved by leaps and bounds.

The Greek vineyard up close Greece has always been a wine-producing country. In fact, some vineyards have existed and flourished since the time of Alexander the Great; others are new and promising. Probably the greatest virtue of the Greek vineyard is its wide range of unique, native varietals. It is these grapes that have captured the imagination of the country’s most visionary winemakers.

It is almost impossible, however, to extricate strictly local varietals from the whole of the Greek vineyard, since there are wines made both as blends (blends of native as well as native and foreign varietals) and wines made from single varietals, both indigenous and international. For wine aficionados for whom Greece might still be uncharted territory, it makes most sense to look at Greek wine production in simple red and white.

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Mout Athos

Crete

Nemea

Naoussa

WINE

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Photos: Heinz Troll

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Grand Reserve Naoussa

Ramnista

Xinomavro

Xinomavro

Rosé sec Amyndeon

Boutari Appellation of Origin Naoussa

Kir-Yianni Appellation of Origin Naoussa

Argatia Regional Wine of Imathia

Ktima Alpha (Alpha Estate) Appellation of Origin Amyndeon

Union of Cooperatives of Amyndeon Appellation of Origin Amyndeon

From Boutari, one of the most recognized Greek names in the world of wine today, comes a great red from the Xinomavro grape.

Designed to exhibit a classic style, its secret is hidden in lovely acidity and firm tannins. With beautiful fruit and spice, it spent 24 months in oak barriques, plus 12 months in bottles.

This fascinating Naoussa, one of the best Xinomavros, is a thoroughly modern wine with knock out flavour.

I love it because it’s fullbodied, rich, deep and at the same time juicy and fruity (dancing plums on your tongue). An ultra clean racy wine from Yiannis Boutaris Estate in Yiannakohori.

Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, agriculturalist specializing in winemaking and her husband Panagiotis Georgiadis propose a new age Xinomavro. Lots to admire in this bone dry and rich in blackberry and cedar flavours wine. Clearly made in a leaner style than today’s high-alcohol cult style, it trades richness for elegance and finesse.

Opulent palate with notes of sour plum, rich berries and above all perfect harmony between fruit and oak, with the most satisfying, mouthwateringly juicy tannins. Open this truly delicious wine for the absolute experience of the intellectual austerity of Xinomavro from Amyndeon mountainous vineyards.

Alpha Estate has discovered exceptional new world charm in this old world region.

Crisp, refreshing sparkling rosé. Dry, with balanced bubbles, a gorgeous pink blush hue and a raspberrystrawberry-with-hints-ofpepper-nose, this liquid love is based on Xinomavro grown in mountain plateau of Amyndeon. Drink with spicy grilled chicken salad, tapas or antipasti, salmon and… the love of your life.

GREEK REDS So, I begin my foray into the Greek vineyard with Naoussa, long a wine-producing region in central Macedonia and one best known for its highquality red wines. Core element of this success was and will always be Xinomavro, the noblest red grape variety of northern Greece. In Naoussa, the best Xinomavro grapes are cultivated on sun-drenched slopes and are kept well protected from northern winds. The wines produced from Xinomavro are popular in Greece; devotees praise the wines’ rich fruit, tasty acidity and untamed tannins, which age beautifully, arguably they are the most age-worthy Greek dry reds. Greek Xinomavro offers a unique alternative to Pinot Noir.

Xinomavro is also cultivated in western Macedonia, on the mountain plateau of Amyndeon, at altitudes around 700 m, surrounded by crystalline lakes. In Amyndeon days are warm, but nights are cool. The difference in temperature slows down the maturation of the grapes, allowing the phenolics of the skins to develop a greater complexity, which is evident in the character of the wines. Distinctive examples of blended wines are produced in Amyndeon, too. The most exciting come from blending Xinomavro with Syrah and Merlot. One of Greece’s most delicious rosé wines, full of rich fruity character, is also produced here, and the area has proved surprisingly conducive to juicy Sauvignon Blanc.

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Kir-Yianni Estate Yianakohori, 59200 Naoussa, Greece, T: +30 23320 51100 , F: + 30 23320 51140 www.kiryianni.gr

The Kir-Yianni Estate was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry, when he left the Boutari Wine Group, the premium family wine company that his grandfather established in 1879. The Kir-Yianni Estate continues a long family tradition focusing on the production of high quality wines which combine style with authenticity and offer true enjoyment, from grapes produced at the Estate´s extensive vineyard holdings in the two wine regions of Naoussa and Amyndeon, on the two sides of mount Vermio in North-Western Greece.

Today the Kir-Yianni Estate, lead by Stelios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, follows its vision into the next phase of its history, by dynamically exploiting the cornerstones of the Kir-Yianni philosophy: desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the end consumer.

The Vineyards The Naoussa vineyard covers 50 ha and lies at an altitude of 280-330 m. It is divided in 33 parcels, each with its own terroir and vinified separately giving a unique character to the final blend. The soil is mostly clay and sandy clay.

The micro-climate of the area is defined by lots of rain and snow in the winter, mild and wet springs and hot dry summers, that are usually cooled down by the cold breezes from Mt Vermion. The vineyard is planted with the varieties Xinomavro (50%), Syrah (15%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and other experimental varieties.

The vineyards at Amyndeon are located at an altitude of 700 m and cover a total area of 165 ha. The soil here is sandy and poor, thus favouring the production of wines of exquisite finesse and rich aroma. The microclimate of the area is known for its cold winters and hot summers, while the presence of the four lakes tempers the continental climate preventing extreme weather conditions. International white varieties - Sauvignon

Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer - as well as indigenous varieties Roditis, Assyrtiko, Malagouzia and Malvasia Aromatica- are grown here.

The application of the Integrated Cultivation methods, in all Kir-Yianni vineyard activities is a management decision based on the family’s philosophy of respect for the environment. Furthermore, integrated cultivation ensures high quality for all the products of the Estate.

Production – products Selection is the key word: Each part of the vineyards in the Kir-Yianni estate is harvested separately, two or three times, based on the phenolic ripening of the grapes. The grapes are then brought to the sorting table, to pick the best. A similar picking phase is also performed during wine-making and aging, in order to ensure that only the best is bottled. Kir-Yianni is in constant experimentation regarding the quality and type of wood (origin, capacity, burning, size of pores) used in the barrels. The main aim is always the creation of wines of a special character: Rich but refined aroma, acidity to provide body and ageing potential, perfect balance in the mouth and ease of combination with various dishes constitute the distinct style of Kir-Yianni wines, which makes them truly appealing for the modern consumer.

In the Kir-Yianni Estate in Naoussa the flagship Kir-Yianni Estate (Yiannakohori) is produced, as well as, the 100% Xinomavro Ramnista and the superblend Dyo Elies. A single vineyard modern style Xinomavro, Diaporos, is also launched.

In the Kir-Yianni Estate in Amyndeon the focus is on whites: Tesseris Limnes, a unique blend of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, the classic Samaropetra, the 100 % Roditis Petra and the successful rosé Akakies. Also, Paranga, the house red blend is produced by grapes sourced mostly in Amyndeon.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Red Wines

Photos: Heinz Troll

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Ktima Katsaros

Ktima Averoff

Château Porto Carras

Metoxi X

(Domaine Katsaros) Regional Wine of Krania

(Averoff Estate)

Appellation of Origin Mount Meliton Slopes

Tsantali Regional Wine of Mount Athos

Hard to exaggerate the beauty of this Mount Meliton slopes-grown wine, which is based on Cabernet Sauvignon but contains Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Greek red variety Limnio. New oak provides a framework of smoky caramel, delicious enough, but just an accompaniment to the blackberries, black currants, cherries and dark chocolate. A fantastic wine for drinking now and should last for many years in the cellar.

Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Limnio (40%) and Xinomavro (20%) grown on the slopes of Mount Athos under harsh conditions. This is the varietal composition of Metoxi X. Serious but seductive, with ripe mulberry fruit and fine tannins this warm purple wine is created from the exclusive parcels of the cloister St. Panteleimon’s vineyards.

Katogi & Strofilia Regional Wine of Metsovo

The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes for this wine are grown in vineyards situated in the eastern foothills of Mount Olumpus. The high altitude (750 m) creates rich, full-bodied wines. Classic Bordeauxstyle, balanced with aromas of cassis, black currant and spicy flavours.

The Katogi & Strofilia blended 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc (5%) and Merlot (5%), offering three-dimentional note and flavour complexity in its mountainous austerity. Coming from Metsovo high-altitude vineyard at 900-1.000 m that’s been aged 12 months in French oak and another year in bottle.

High-altitude vineyards are promising for the production of red wines, and Rapsani, on the south-east slopes of Mount Olympus -home of ancient Greek gods- produces some of the country’s most serious, seductive wines. Xinomavro thrives here, too, but so do other, more arcane, varietals such as Krassato and Stavroto. The wines of Rapsani, full of ripe mulberry fruit and packed with fine tannins, are among the rising stars of the Greek vineyard.

Same important climate advantages for vine growing prevail on Krania, Olympus, at 700 m. altitude. Here the red Bordeaux blend: Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot gives a lovely powerful wine that counts a vast audience of fans.

Pindus Mountains, is home to another, high-altitude vineyard at 1200 m, Metsovo. In this relatively new Greek grape growing region, several international varieties have found a home and done well: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Traminer wines show the finesse and elegance that high-altitude regions are capable of.

Food pairings - Xinomavro with food I’m extremely fond of complex Xinomavro reds with firm tannins and lovely backbone of acidity. They are the ultimate food wines. Terrific with tomato-sauce stews, chacruterie, sausages, pork, roasted lamb, game casseroles and aged cheese.

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Alpha Estate 2nd km Amyndeon – Ag. Panteleimon 53200 Amyndeon, Greece T: +30 23860 20111, F: +30 23860 20132 www.alpha-estate.com

Alpha Estate is situated in the “Ampelia” location (meaning vines), in the heart of the Amyndeon region, an area of Appellation of Origin wines in the northern part of Greece. Two factors contribute to the special character of Alpha Estate grapes: mesoclimate and soil. Moderate temperatures and heavy winter rains create ideal conditions for the grapes to ripen. Poor soils with good drainage create a mild water deficit the vines, resulting in small berries with intense red colour and concentrated flavours and aromas.

The vineyard The privately owned vineyard of the estate is situated on a plateau at an altitude of 620-710 m with a northwest exposure, covering a total area of 65 ha. The local climate is characterized by cold winters with sufficient rainfall and snow which provide the vines with the necessary water supplies to endure the relatively dry summer. Additionally, two neighbouring lakes contribute to the existence of a mild semi-continental climate, favouring the cultivation of foreign and indigenous, red and white grape varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Malagouzia, Pinot Noir, Negro Amaro, Montepulciano, Tannat, Barbera, Mavrodaphne, Merlot, Syrah and Xinomavro.

The winery Alpha Estate winery is located at the neighbouring to the privately owned vineyards of the viticulture exploitation. That means that transport of the grapes from the vineyard to the winery during harvest is done at the shortest possible time. Close proximity, in combination with transport in special refrigerators and harvest at the coolest hours of the day underline the outmost respect and protection of the organoleptic characteristics of the grapes.

Natural gravity, a concept applied from the design of the winery, is exploited throughout the winemaking process, with the minimum possible stress to the first material. All construction materials are highly inactive and neutral in order to secure absolute neutral atmosphere conditions inside the winery, protecting the quality of the grape, the must and the wine.

Managing the winery is simplified by applying a totally integrated building management system at all levels, from the winery process to the machinery and mechanical functions both inside the winery and from distance, from any part of the world. Large part of the winery and its state of the art machinery of the latest available winemaking technology are monitored directly by the suppliers of this equipment on line, through modems, in order to secure optimum performance.

The winery equipment installed satisfies the winemaker Angelos Iatridis’ philosophy: Absolute respect to the ecosystem, the vine grower and the wine lover.

The wines The Xinomavro grapes from the vineyard are used exclusively for the core blend of a typical Vin de Garde of Appellation of Origin Amyndeon: Alpha Xinomavro.

Today, a popular blend of Syrah-Merlot with ungrafted Xinomavro is the estate’s red flagship: Alpha Estate red, while a classic barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc: Alpha Estate white and several other wines of limited production: Alpha Syrah, Alpha Pinot Noir, Alpha Malagouzia, Alpha One, Omega complete the estate’s varietal portfolio.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Red Wines

Photos: Heinz Troll

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Ktima Gaia

Ktima Driopi Reserve

Terra Leone Ammos

Palaia Klimata (Old Vines)

Megas Oenos

(Gaia Estate) Appellation of Origin Nemea

(Driopi Estate) Appellation of Origin Nemea

Ktima Palivos (Palivos Estate) Appellation of Origin Nemea

Ktima Papaioannou (Papaioannou Estate) Appellation of Origin Nemea

Skouras Regional Wine of Peloponnese

Dr. enologist and winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopoulos recognized Nemea’s potential to become a world player. He crafts a deeply coloured, incredibly flavourful, rich, velvety textured…, a terrific red wine. Once appeared it has changed the appellation’s orientation and future. Look for plush, generous texture, plum fruit, cherry and spice flavours.

Yiannis Tselepos with this Agiorgitiko has captured the essence of Nemea appellation zone. It’s a sturdy, tannic, ageworthy wine, with the density of flavours and complex structure that lowyielding mountain grapes give. Rich and appealing, it should develop over the next decade.

Lots to admire in this Agiorritiko. Deep ruby, almost black. Aromas recall blackberry, dark chocolate and smoky oak tones.

This impressively tannic wine has layers and layers of fruit beneath, just waiting to come to the surface.

If you love New World forward fruitiness and highalcohol cult style, this one’s for you.

Thanassis Papaioannou is another wine icon. His deep knowledge of the vine gave birth to an archetype Nemea from the parcels of his vineyards still planted with old vines. A beautiful wine. Smooth as silk on the palate with smoky ripe plums and deep mocha.

Balance, complexity, élan, aplomb, verve... haven’t I forgotten anything?

Rich warmth. I’m helpless in the face of such concentration! Made from 80% Agiorgitiko and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon this round, smooth-textured red shows the best of both varieties.

It is ready to drink, but will also reward long-term cellaring (+ 10 years).

Undoubtedly the most thrilling red wine region in southern Greece is also the country’s largest wine-growing region: Nemea, just south of the Isthmus of Corinth.

Nemea is famous for its local Agiorgitiko grape. The Agiorgitiko produces wines that are full of ripe fruit, sunshine, soft sexy tannins, lots of flavour and good body. In local lore they are called the “blood of Hercules”; so deep red is their colour. There are approximately 20 wineries in the region, and the highly conscientious producers who are active here propose wines of spectacular quality.

It’s worth mentioning that the diversity of Nemea’s sub-regions altitude and microclimate together with Agiorgitiko’s velvet tannins lead to the production of many different styles of wine, ranging from pleasant aromatic rosés to fresh fruity reds and extraordinary full bodied aged reds.

Food pairings - Agiorgitiko with food Agiorgitiko is a food friendly wine and there is a big range of foods that go very well with it. Taste chilled rosés made from Agiorgitiko with tuna, red mullet and seafood with tomato sauce. The fresh aromatic reds are perfect with grilled meats while the full-bodied ones compliment steaks, roast beef, spiced game and hard cheeses.

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Domaine Skouras 10th km Argos-Sternas, 212 00 Malandreni, Greece T: +30 27510 23688, F: +30 27510 23159 www.skouras.gr

Domaine Skouras was established in 1986 in Pyrgela, Argos by Dijon-trained oenologist George Skouras. In 1988 Skouras launched his pioneering Megas Oenos label. Pioneering because he was the first wine producer to blend Agiorgitiko grape variety with Cabernet Sauvignon and with illustrious results. In 1996 the Domaine built a small winery at Gymno, one of the villages inside the Nemea Appellation of Origin zone and in 2004, the Domaine started operating from its splendid facility at Malandreni.

Vineyards The Peloponnese -rich in ancient ruins from its glorious past- has been cultivated with vineyards for many a century. The north-east -home to Mycenae and Epidaurus- is blessed vineyard territory. Indigenous grape varieties in Nemea, Argolida, Arcadia and Mantinia include Roditis, Moschofilero (white varieties) and Agiorgitiko (red variety). Cosmopolitan varieties: Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are also cultivated and display strong terroir. Domaine Skouras sources grapes from its own vineyards and from dedicated grape-growers in the region.

Winery Our winery is just under an hour and a half drive from Athens, strategically situated off the Athens-Tripoli highway, on the national road leading to Argos. The winery itself is environed by a predominantly eye-soothing green landscape stretching all the way to Mycenae in the north, to the city of Argos in the East and to the steep mountains in the South and West. The facility encompasses a spacious visitors’ wine-tasting, lecture and exhibition hall, with stunning views of the Argive plane and a magnificent cellar. The Domaine is equipped with the latest in wine-making technology.

Wines Cuvée Prestige White (Roditis 70%, Moschofilero 30%) Cuvée Prestige Rosé (Agiorgitiko 70%, Moschofilero 30%) Cuvée Prestige Red (Agiorgitiko 90%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%) Moschofilero 100% Almyra, Dum Vinum Sperum (both Chardonnay 100%) Viognier Cuvée Larsinos, Viognier Eclectique (both Viognier 100%) Saint George Nemea, Grande Cuvée Nemea (both Agiorgitiko 100%) Cabernet Sauvignon 100% Megas Oenos (Agiorgitiko 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%) Synoro (Cabernet Franc 40%, Merlot 40%, Agiorgitiko 20%) Merlot 100% Fleva (Syrah 100%) Delectable, everyday, value-for-money wines. Inspired and inspiring bottles.

Unforgettable vintages. Minuscule quantities. Magnificent occasions. Bold, confident winemaking. Winning teams both at home and around the world.

They all define the unique approach of Domaine Skouras.

At Domaine Skouras you see, we don’t just make wine. We flirt with whites that turn heads. We are flamboyant with our intense rosé. We fall in love with reds and pack them with finesse. We are romancing with rare bottlings that you will enjoy for -and in- years to come.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Red Wines

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Magiko Vouno red (Magic Mountain) Nico Lazaridi Regional Wine of Drama

This is the legendary wine that started Nico Lazaridi’s portfolio.

Featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc it shows off the virtues of both grapes. Opulent aromas of cherry, plums, spice and oak, in which it was aged for 18 months. Luscious texture and complexity. The bottle labels feature original artwork by celebrated painters.

Thema red Ktima Pavlidi (Pavlidis Estate) Regional Wine of Drama

Pavlidis Estate has taken the world by storm by consistently producing high quality wines like this fullbodied red. Smooth-textured with dense aromas of blackcurrant, eucalyptus, and dark chocolate is made from 60% Syrah and 40% Agiorgitiko. A solid performer.

Kapnias red 2006 Vineyard Zygos Ktima Hatzimichalis (Domaine Hatzimichalis) Regional Wine of Atalanti Valley No winery in Greece has explored Cabernet Sauvignon more than Domaine Hatzimichalis, and with the Vineyard Zygos, they’ve produced another interesting wine.

It has weight and body and lots of fine tannins. With wild black and red berry, tobacco and roasted meat flavours it reflects the 12 months aging in oak bariques.

Château Semeli 2006 Semeli Regional Wine of Attica

A multi award-winning Greek Cabernet Sauvignon (with 8% Merlot), it represents the epitome of the style that has made the grape world renowned: bold and powerful, yet elegant and concentrated. Inky in colour, with more red fruit on the palate, subtle oak and light tannins.

Semeli is one of the most beautiful wineries on the South Greece landscape and a must-see when touring wine country.

Greece, with its verdant, imposing mountains, is also home to one of the loveliest -and most touristed- coastlines. Wine lovers that have well traveled through it, especially in Halkidiki, east of Thessaloniki will definitely remember more than the endless blue of the sea: the juicy, red wines from the Mount Meliton slopes, at Porto Carras. The ancient Greek varietal Limnio flourishes here, but so do Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and many of the wines that are produced here are their blends. They exude a marvelous aromatic depth and rich fruity character. Α glorious expression of this blend is also produced on the blessed stripe of land called Mount Athos, where almost every monastery has a long tradition of vine growing and wine making that dates back to the Byzantine era.

Greek reds consistently win praise between wine enthusiasts -both traditional wine lovers and modern style fans in Greece and abroad. Greek white wines, in their tern, are earning high praise from international observers.

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Domaine Porto Carras 263081 Sithonia, Halkidiki, Greece T: +30 23750 71381, F: +30 23750 71229 www.portocarraswines.gr

The vineyard - Meliton Slopes: a vine-growing zone of excellent ecological conditions 4.700.000 m² of Greek vineyards are spread out amphitheatrically over the west side of Sithonia in Halkidiki, where richly planted Meliton proudly dominates the slopes of the peninsula.

The undulating spread of the estate creates excellent ecological conditions for the cultivation of selected grape varieties, such as Assyrtiko, Athiri, Malagouzia and Rhoditis, which produce high-quality fine white wines.

The famous Greek indigenous variety Limnio predominates among the reds; Limnio is one of the most ancient varieties, which is mentioned as “λημνία” οr “λήμνιος οίνος” in Aristotle’s works too. It can be considered as of equal value with the famous international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Syrah, which have warmly accepted the hospitable Greek soil.

Exceptional people – Unique varieties The Domaine Porto Carras as well as the tourist complex of Porto Carras to which it is connected too, began operating in the beginning of 60’s and aimed at bringing a ground-breaking change to Greece’s hotel and wine image.

The vineyard planning for cultivation and vinification was exemplary. The adaptation of different varietals to the estate’s soil and climate conditions was researched and supervised by the Agricultural University of Thessaloniki professors, in addition to the extremely significant contribution of Prof.

Emile Peynaud from the University of Bordeaux in France, who is considered as the precursor of Bordeaux’s modern oenology by wine scientists all over the world. It was the first time since a systematic and highly scientific study of the suitability of foreign varieties had taken place in Greece. A notable outcome of this research was the release of the first Cabernet Sauvignon in Greece, where it became worldly renowned.

The wines bear the much-wanted title of: “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Plagies Melitona” [Mount Meliton Slopes]. They are produced

with knowledge and care by experienced oenologists -Emile Peynaud’s students- on the estate’s plant. Absolute control over the raw material of grapes brings significant advantages, including the ability to select the most appropriate date for beginning to harvest the grapes.

Respecting its people, the consumers and nature From the very day that the vineyard was patiently grown, Domaine Porto Carras people realized the significance of organic cultivation and applied this method across the vines. Thanks to the area’s exceptional climate conditions, Domaine Porto Carras’ organic vineyard is very unlikely to have any vine diseases. The vine protection is thus achieved through application of sulphur and of copper whereas the whole cultivation is certified as organic. Due to the area’s dry and hot climate, only organic fertilizers are applied, and the yield per 1.000 m² keeps up low analogies so as to produce potentially high-quality wines.

The “Plagies Melitona” vineyard is today a model of organic vineyard cultivation worthy of imitation, following international responsibility trends regarding its people, the consumers and the physical environment.

Last but not least, the wine plant’s chosen location near the vineyard in the estate of Porto Carras is deliberate for facilitating the vinification process; that is, avoiding oxidization when long exposure to the sun or any mishandling by transportation occurs.

Future Plans Since 2000 the entire complex has been owned and managed by the Technical Olympic Group of Companies. The Group met a new challenge to achieve Domaine Porto Carras renovation and general reengineering processes.

The wine tasting halls as well as the wine-production plants are in the process of refurbishment whereas unforgettable tours of the vineyards are presently taking place. Domaine Porto Carras always gives a warm welcome to its visitors and is ready to provide all of its originally Greek hospitality.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | White Wines

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Ktima Gerovassiliou white

Chardonnay

Amethystos white

Techni Alipias white

Château Nico Lazaridi

(Domaine Gerovassiliou) Regional Wine of Epanomi

Ktima Arvanitidi (Arvanitidi Estate) Regional Wine of Thessaloniki

Ktima Kosta Lazaridi (Domaine Costa Lazaridi) Regional Wine of Drama

Ktima Techni Oenou (Wine Art Estate) Regional Wine of Drama

Nico Lazaridi Regional Wine of Drama

Fruity, crisp, clean, a superior example of two indigenous grape varieties, Assyrtiko and Malagousia, blend.

They share the jump-outof-the-glass fruitiness and freshness. Furthermore, the acidity of the Assyrtiko gives the richer, fatter, floweryscented Malagousia some real zip.

Tired of oaky Chardonnay?

Try this fresh and mouthwatering for food, savoury Chardonnay that reflects the highest quality of Thessaloniki’s semimountainous Askos district.

No oak to interfere with the ripe, opulent flavours of pineapples, grapefruits and limes, which are brightened and heightened by crisp acidity.

If you love the exotic perfumed style of Sauvignon Blanc, snap this up.

Terrific and refreshing white, a real fruit bomb with lovely acidity. A great success of the trio: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Assyrtiko since early ‘90s.

A terrific producer and a great white wine.

Wine Art Estate is a solid producer from Drama.

The wine, a Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtiko blend, offers fruit concentration and richness allied to fine acidity. Perfectly calibrated for pleasure, it leaves you wanting more and more and more…

Very superior wine from Drama which is based on Sauvignon Blanc but also contains Muscat of Alexandria and Ugni Blanc.

Vibrant pale yellow colour leads to impressive nose of white flowers, green apple and pear. Full-bodied, wellbalanced by a fresh seam of acidity.

GREEK WHITES

Few wine enthusiasts worldwide associate Greece with crispy, refreshing dry white wines, but that is a misconception easily debunked if you’ve ever had a taste of the whites produced in Epanomi, Thessaloniki, Drama, or Mount Pangeon in northern Greece and in the Atalanti valley in central Greece. In these regions, producers have embraced the art of blending Assyrtiko, a startling Greek white grape with Sauvignon Blanc and Malagouzia (another brilliant indigenous grape).

The red wines produced in these regions also tend to be blends. Especially the red Bordeaux blend: Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot gives lovely powerful wines that counts a vast audience of fans. Epanomi, Drama, Mount Pangeon and Atalanti are all wine regions that have enjoyed huge investments over the last decade. Wines with a great personality are produced in some of the loveliest Greek estates, and an army of producers devoted to quality and high aesthetic standards are to be found at these parts of the country. The charm of their properties is embodied in their wines.

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Wine Art Estate Wine Art Estate Mikrochori, 66100 Drama, Greece T: +30 25210 83626, +30 25210 83585, F: +30 25210-83632 www.wineart.gr

Wine Art Estate was created by the civil engineer Yannis Papadopoulos and the architect Yannis Kalaitzidis, both successful professionals in their own field.

Yannis Papadopoulos planted in 1993 a small family vineyard in Mikrochori and started, as a hobby, to vinify his first wines in a small simple outlet. Two years later, in 1995, Yannis Kalaitzidis joined the venture.

The result was Wine Art Estate and the first range of products, Techni Alipias, a red, a white and a rosé wine, were introduced and gained immediately their share of the quality wines market.

Wine Art aims to present how well certain Greek and cosmopolitan varieties are adapted to the microclimate of Drama. Towards this direction, a new wine, Chardonnay Idisma Drios was put to market in 1999. This was the first of a new range of products, Idisma Drios (“sweetly oaked”), to be followed

by Assyrtiko, Merlot and Syrah. In great vintages, the Estate also vinifies a limited quantity of Nebbiolo.

The vineyards The Wine Art Estate vineyards at Mikrochori overlook Mount Pangeon, in antiquity home of the cult of Dionysus and the Orphic mysteries. The vineyards were planted on carefully chosen south-facing slopes, well protected against late frosts. The soil is mainly sandy-clay, suitable for the cultivation of the Greek and foreign varieties planted and ideal for the development of their characteristics. The French grape varieties Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, the Italian varieties Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, the Portuguese variety Touriga Nacional and the indigenous varieties Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, Lemniona are carefully tended, to ensure top quality fruit.

Wine Art Estate has currently 16 ha of vineyards at Mikrochori. Another 10 ha was planted at Kria Vrisi, a location known since ancient times for the

cultivation of the vine and the production of wines, as indicated by the ruins of a Sanctuary of Dionysus.

The winery The elegant modern winery of Wine Art Estate is located on the outskirts of the village of Mikrochori. The first section of the establishment was built in 1998 and in 2007 an adjacent building was built on the other side of the road. The construction work was completed in 2008 and the winery is now housed in a complex of two handsome buildings, while the two “towers” that mark the edge of both buildings prove architectural aesthetics and harmony.

The two sections of the winery are connected by an underground tunnel, which houses the cellars. With a covered area of 3.000 m², both on the ground and underground, it has a production capacity of 300.000 bottles.

The functional, spacious production area was designed specifically for the new building. It houses the state-of-the-art equipment for the production of quality wines. A computerised central control system constantly monitors the entire production process, intervening automatically and generating a record of each fermentation tank.

Visits Wine Art Estate welcomes visits from wine-lovers and people who want to learn at first hand about the enchanting world of wine. The visit includes a tour of the production areas and underground cellars, and finishes in the brand new wine-tasting room, where visitors can taste the wines. On the ground floor of the new building there is an elegant restaurant, especially designed for corporate presentations and other wine-related events.

The visitor gets the impression of an attractive, comfortable, warm and friendly place.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | White Wines

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Ktima Vivlia Hora

Mantinia

Mantinia

Asprolithi

(Vivlia Hora Estate) Regional Wine of Mount Pangeon

Ktima Tselepos (Domaine Tselepos) Appellation of Origin Mantinia

Ktima Spiropoulos (Domain Spiropoulos) Appellation of Origin Mantinia

Oenoforos Appellation of Origin Patras

In this multi award-winning wine from Mount Pangeon are all the lemon of Assyrtiko with real raciness and the fresh pungency of fine Sauvignon Blanc. Lovely and particularly delicate is refreshing enough to enjoy without food but you’d love to try it with shellfish.

Textbook Moschofilero: crisp, ripe citrus trees fruit, rose notes and a racy character. One of my favourite styles of wine because it’s so refreshing it can be consumed on its own, or makes a terrific partner to a wide range of dishes (chicken, pasta, shellfish, seafood, salads).

This clean and refreshing wine, offering thrilling rosewater nose, fresh lime aromas and flavours, proves the perfect harmony between Moschofilero and Mantinia region. Make this perhaps the perfect white wine to serve at a summer garden party.

The Slopes of Aigion, “one of the most interesting vinicultural regions in the world” (Stavroula Kourakou, honorary chairwoman of the O.I.V.) allow the Roditis grape to realize its full potential, making fine and zesty wines like this one. Delicious fruit with more personality than many other region versions yet delicacy too.

Mantinia, in the central Peloponnese, has emerged as a region with great potential for producing terroir-driven dry white wines. Its grape speciality is the white variety Moschofilero, which flourishes on vines grown on a high-altitude plateau. Its grapes have a gray coloured skin and therefore produce a Blanc de Gris. Moschofilero is characterized by a delightful elegance, with notes of rose and basil and produces dry white wines, sparklings and rosés. It appeals to wine lovers who appreciate concentrated fruit.

Food pairings - Moschofilero with food Moschofilero is exceptionally versatile with food. Its aromatic character makes it perfect for Asian and other slightly sweet or spicy dishes. Sparkling Moschofilero, with just a hint of sweetness, is terrific with shellfish, seafood, creamy cheeses and as an aperitif.

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Arvanitidis Estate Askos, 57016 Thessaloniki, Greece T:+30 23950 61626, F: +30 23950 61646 www.arvanitidis-winery.gr

Arvanitidis Estate is located at Askos, a quiet picturesque village near Thessaloniki, on the eastern slopes of Mount Vertiskos, at an altitude of 500 m. Amidst this beautiful region, with green hills of modest height, on the location of an old family vineyard, agronomist Thanassis Arvanitidis, together with his brother George, created in 1999 a modern vineyard and started Arvanitidis Estate.

The entire vineyard is organically cultivated All interventions to the vineyard, especially those aiming to plant protection, are compatible with the maintenance of the biological balance of the plants below and above ground, and aim to the protection of the consumer.

Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah are the varieties currently cultivated, while Nebbiolo and Barbera are cultivated experimentally.

The vineyard Today, the privately owned vineyard covers an area of 7 ha and is steadily expanding. The aim of the owners is to vinify grapes only from privately owned vineyards, in order to fully control their quality.Â

In 2008 new parts of the vineyard were planted with Greek varieties Malagousia and Xinomavro to create the future wines of the estate.

The broader region of Askos is characterized by clay soil that favours viticulture. The location of the Arvanitidis Estate linear vineyard was carefully selected for its soil composition, well balanced in sand and clay, ideal for restrained plant growth.

The climate is continental, characterized by a significant difference in temperature between day and night during summer. The vineyard has a south-western exposure to the sun, ideal for the sunlight and temperature conditions in Greece. During summer, the region receives an upcoming breeze from Lake Koronia that favours the ripeness of grapes. The presence of this breeze also hinders the appearance of wine diseases and helps maintain the grapes in good health. As a result, organic cultivation is successfully adapted.

The estate Wine production is taking place at the small, fully equipped winery, within the family estate, a lovely property with pine, flowers and an orchard, located at the edge of Askos village. The existing winery has a space for vinification and a separate one for the ageing of the wines in oak casks.

The wines A typical Chardonnay of fresh character.

A modern expression of the classical Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot blend.

A fleshy and velvety Merlot.

A purple, peppery Syrah.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | White Wines

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Assyrtiko Grande Reserve

Santorini

Santorini

Malagouzia

Savatiano Vareli

Santo Wines Appellation of Origin Santorini

Hatzidakis Winery Appellation of Origin Santorini

Sigalas Appellation of Origin Santorini

Matsa Estate Regional Wine of Pallini

Domaine Papagiannakos Regional Wine of Markopoulo

High-alcohol dynamite (15%) from very old Assyrtiko vines (100 years old) in Akrotiri region of Santorini.

The first Assyrtiko Grande Reserve -ever- is made in the classic oaked style -one year in oak barriques plus one year bottle aging. Really full bodied with good acidity to bring it into balance, apple crumble, citrus and smoke in the mix too.

A super-classic crystalline Santorini with great volcano minerals and no shortage of fruit. The perfect Assyrtiko for your favourite grilled fishes.

Very fine indeed. Complete, confident and zesty.

For classicists.

Taste the 2003 vintage of this Santorini and… the light of truth will shine upon the Assyrtiko’s ageing ability. The growing season’s generally warm, sunny days and unusually cool nights produced extraordinary ripeness in the grapes partnered with very high acidity. The finished wines show a beautiful balance between fruit and crisp acids. They also tend to be very long-lived.

Much-admired vine-grower and organic cultivation pioneer, Roxani Matsa is the producer of this beautiful and typical Malagouzia.

Exposing layers and layers of fruit and texture, this wine is sourced from the family estate’s historical vineyard in Attica, a real oasis of beauty and serenity.

Papagiannakos Winery specializes in Savatiano bottlings from Markopoulo region of Attica. With this wine they have captured the essence of the grape when matured in French oak. The wine’s ripe fruit ably supports the toasty oak tones. A must try for Savatiano lovers looking for something different.

WINE

Asprolithi * Oenoforos Each year the very best of the Greek Roditis grapes, cultivated at 840 m of altitude in the mountains of Northern Peloponnese, give birth to this astonishing dry white wine.

A modern and fruity wine with a bold mouth feel and a crisp, pleasant acidity.

(*) Asprolithi: Greek word that means white stone.

“…it is the finest of Roditis wines in Greece.”

Steven Spurrier, Decander May 1997, p.94

Of all Greece’s native white grape varietals -and there are about 400- Assyrtico, mentioned above, is probably the most fascinating.

Although nowadays it is grown in many regions, its historic home is Santorini. One could write tomes on the unique character of the island and its wines. Santorini’s most significant and unique characteristic is its physical makeup: the island is volcanic. Its soil has been formed by layers of ash, lava and pumice stone. Vines flourish miraculously here, in almost dessert conditions. The result is in the island’s wines, which are refreshing and lively. Santorini Assyrtico is known for its pure, bright fruit and zesty acidity. There is no other wine quite like it.

Food pairings - Assyrtiko with food Assyrtiko packed with silky tree fruit and minerality is the ultimate food wine that would pair with many dishes, including the toughies such as cream sauces, shellfish and dry meats. It is perfect for grilled, roasted or fries fishes, seafood and chicken.

The new or rediscovered wine regions in Greece in the last years are quite a few. Like Attica, a vast area where of course the wine styles within the region do vary, but all reflect an abundance of ripe flavour.

This wine region is now enjoying a renaissance, thanks to the efforts of several new wine devotees who make serious wines from indigenous and cosmopolitan grapes.

Like Aigialia Slopes that have great capabilities for making notably fine wines from Roditis (an indigenous white grape), Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Among latecomers, Messinia and Lakonia have won attention for their top quality Bordeaux grape varieties.

Oenoforos Selinous, Aigion 25100 Aigialeia, Greece T: +30 26910 29415, F: +30 26910 60380 www.oenoforos.gr

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | White Wines - Dessert Wines

Photos: Heinz Troll

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Robola

Xerolithia

Anthemis

Vinsanto

Gentilini

Mediterra Appellation of Origin Peza

Samos Coop Appellation of Origin Samos

Ktima Argyros (Argyros Estate) Appellation of Origin Santorini

No other region in Crete makes such a wide selection of refreshing white wines as the Peza. Made from Vilana grapes and vineyards facing the Aegean Sea, this very attractive wine is extremely fine with an undertow of green fruits. Xerolithia really shows the potential of the terroir.

Gorgeous summer elixir with honeyed aromas and sweet memories of childhood. The aromas are classic white Muscat’s, including honey, mandarin, figs and lanolin.

Sweet and full-flavoured, it is terrifically balanced by a seam of acidity. Long, long finish. A terrific sweat wine with a Mediterranean heart.

If you wondered what a Vinsanto, made from sun dried Assyrtiko grapes, tasted like, this spectacular wine would certainly give you an idea of the combination of richness and acidity. Exotic aromas of peaches, apricots and stones.

Delicious with a pleasant citrus trees fruit finish that goes on and on.

A finish without end.

Appellation of Origin Robola of Cephalonia

This Robola reveals rich mineral and flower aromas, as well as a citrusflavoured character.

Marianna Kosmetatos -daughter of the founder of Gentilini- and her husband, the creative Spyros Markantonatos, is the new generation that has taken over the owenership of the house, and bottled this vivacious, well-crafted wine.

Exciting dry wines from indigenous and cosmopolitan grapes are also being made in all of the following Greek islands: Crete, Rhodes in the Dodecanese, Paros in Cyclades and Cephalonia in the Ionian Sea. They produce absolutely stunning wines that are not to be described as fruitbombs, but with lots of depth and layers of ripe fruit. The moderating effect the sea has on the temperature is the key element to the ripeness and flavour of these wines.

Last but not least, come the Greek sweet wines. Gorgeous elixirs that could easily warrant the most expensive price tags in the world. Dessert wines that have been made for centuries have new polish, accomplished by the Greek wine renaissance of the last three decades. In Samos a glorious expression of White Muscat is produced, with a rich fruity character. Charismatic gorgeous elixirs, with great aromas. And Achaia in the Peloponnese is a highly respected name for red Mavrodaphne of Patras.

Believe me, there are good wines to be found in all corners of Greece. When you’re ready for something new, different and delicious, taste them.

Whatever you are looking for, you will probably find it here. And I am pretty certain that your first wine tasting safari in the country where it all started (the wine affair I mean), will be the first of many yet to follow.

FOOD

Kritikos Restaurant

Rich fish soups, fresh caught fish by North Aegean and traditional dishes shape the best menu for fine wining and eating...

The splendor in sea food stories and signature plates presenting the Mediterranean and Greek cuisine, in an elegant ambience, recognized by lots of awards.

Kritikos Restaurant and taverna has been preparing choice Mediterranean cuisine since 1977, offering all the traditional dishes plus the finest fresh local fish you have ever tasted. Our attention to detail and the care we take with every dish, from first to last, assure a welcome change from the ordinary. Based on the bounty of our clean clear waters plus a wide variety of fresh vegetables, herbs and local meats, our Mediterranean cuisine offers -according to the experts- the very best balanced and flavourful nutrition.

In the stunning scenery of Halkidiki, in Ouranoupoli, the mystique atmosphere of Mount Athos dominates the whole area. Dining here merits a bow as the monasteries do that stand right across.

For seafood lovers we recommend our superb kakkavia (fish soup) and lobster spaghetti. Our traditional lemonato is also fantastic. These are dishes that will tantalise every taste bud, awaken every last shade of flavour…

The Restaurant Kritikos is not a simple fish restaurant, it is a restaurant which offers a generous dose of sublimity in its settings. It provides a menu which includes not only the earthly paradise, a few steps away from the Mount Athos’ sky but a wine list which would envy the ever best restaurant of Athens as well. This sublimity is being expressed in its dishes as well, either through the splendid, rich fish soup, the lobster spaghetti , or, the fresh caught fish and the seafood.

Gourmet Awards 2007-2008, Sunday Eleftherotipia newspaper Kritikos Restaurant has been recognized by Fodor’s Travel, the foremost name in travel publishing, as a 2010 Fodor’s Choice selection. This distinction represents a remarkable achievement and recognizes Kritikos Restaurant as a leader in its field for service, quality, and value in the 2010 year.

As a 2010 Fodor’s Choice recipient Kritikos Restaurant receives special recognition in the current Fodor’s guidebook to this region and on Fodors.com.

Ouranoupoli • Halkidiki 63075 Greece T: +30 23770 71222, F: +30 23770 71642 www.okritikos.com

Kritikos Gallery Ιn an elegant space, where the quality is being transformed into style, we created a boutique, based on love for the favourite trends.

Unique clothes, shoes, accessories, jewellery, objects of an exquisite collection, which is continiously updated, matched with the summer mood.

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Retsina. Quintessentially Greek

Retsina

Quintessentially Greek

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ou might be lucky enough to be enjoying a beautiful summer morning next to the blue waters of the Aegean, relaxing at the beach, reading in the shade, and, weather permitting, taking a quick dip.

And when appetite overcomes you, take the five or six steps to the next taverna, and along come the delicious fresh fish, tzadziki, cheese salad, Greek salad, fried zucchini and peppers... is everything on the table and awaiting the wine? It is now that the retsina from the next table winks at you. So, are you ready to give into this very Greek taste of resin?

The truth is that for decades retsina has been in the crosshairs of wine experts, wine producers, and even wine-loving consumers. It has been widely considered the root of all evil, the unfortunate development in the Greek wine world responsible for stalling the acceptance of Greek wines by the rest of the world. And justly so, since in the minds of many people, especially abroad, Greek wine was equated with a product whose sole redeeming value was the intense, flattening taste of pine resin, with not a word about the rest of our carefully produced high quality red and white wines. The task of approaching the demanding foreign markets, even to be greeted as a mere acquaintance, was therefore exceedingly difficult. The process of acceptance was particularly slow, painful, and expensive. How is it possible then, to give retsina the absolution that its friends demand?

Retsina-lovers have strong counterpoints these arguments, and their first defence is the unique “Greekness” of this special wine. They will remind you that its origins are based in antiquity, back when our ancestors were transporting and trading their famous wines inside sealed amphorae. Amongst the materials they used to seal those containers was pine resin, and it appears that the resin, by transmitting its aroma to the wine inside, excited the imagination and the taste buds of ancient winemakers - and thus did the story of the resin wine begin.

Continuing the counter-attack, retsina-lovers will mention the national pride arising from successes by the Greek delegation to the European Community in their efforts to classify retsina amongst wines with a “Traditional appellation”, or, in other words, amongst the wines that are produced according to the traditional methods of a specific country or area. Their success means that only in our country is it possible to produce resin wine and call it “Retsina”.

Finally, friends of retsina will point out the numerous wine producers who, preferring pride to national disgrace, gave much needed attention to its production, devoting time to not only to the choice of grapes, but also to the resin that is added in small, controlled quantities. The result? A line of white, well-produced retsinas, with fragrances and flavours balancing well between the grape and the pine. So, all you devoted fans, or even you occasional curiosityseekers, why not join us for a taste of Greek retsina!

T R AV E L & F O O D

Destination: Nea Gonia

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Your ideal half-day excursion to culinary Halkidiki, including wine tasting, vine leaf rolling, filo pastry making and a unique private concert experience.

40° 36’ 28” N 23° 09’ 42” Ε

Marianna’s Vineleaves 1st km Nea Gonia - Nea Kallikrateia road 63 080 Halkidiki, Greece T: +30 23 99 02 04 50, F: +30 23 99 02 04 51 www@vineleaves.gr

Right next to the bustling highway to Halkidiki’s peninsulae, or legs, Nea Gonia is a true treasure trove of authentic experiences. A small village populated at the beginning of the 20th century by refugees from Asia Minor, Nea Gonia offers more than a few ways to satisfy your senses –well, most of them!

First and foremost, Nea Gonia is an exquisite gastronomic destination.

Your ideal journey to Nea Gonia begins at the village around the corner: Agios Pavlos and its renowned Evangelos Tsantalis winery. Once you have tasted the new or older vintages, you arrive at the Nea Gonia village and the famous Marianna’s Vineyards. Aside from being the first fully organic vineyards in Greece, they are famous for not producing a single drop of wine! Marianna Kazakis and her family grow their vines with tender loving care in order to collect each May the tenderest leaves of the season. They are the same leaves used to roll Marianna’s Ntolmadakia, a signature Greek dish savoured around the country. The family’s workshop is open to visitors throughout the year. Here, you can take a tour of the plant after walking through the vineyards themselves and see how full traceability of the products is achieved by the custom-made, state-of-the-art ERP system.

Once you have picked your vine leaves, you are ready to learn how to roll your own vine leaf wraps! Sit on the table and follow Marianna’s instructions for making the Greek roll. Then, place them in the pot and let them boil for 20 minutes, while sipping the family triple-distilled tsipouro.

The next step in discovering Nea Gonia is the women’s cooperative Goniatisses. Here, your hands will prepare another typical Greek delicacy: Filo Pie with genuine Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) feta cheese.

Touch the flour, mix it with water and knead your dough. Spread the dough on the table and roll out the filo to cigarette-paper thinness, without tearing it apart. Discover the secrets of the true hand-made filo pastry, Greek style.

Then prepare the mix, be it feta or spinach, leak or minced meat. Spread it equally in the filo and let it stay for a while. While you are at it, visit an authentic 1950’s Greek rural house and smell the rich aroma of Greek coffee, served with a glass of cold water. You see, Goniatisses are using a traditional house as their business home. Then prepare the oven and start baking your pie. This will give you just enough time to visit the village’s windmill, where the villagers used to bring their wheat on donkeys only a few years ago.

Walk up the steps to the summit of the windy hill and climb to the top of the mill. On a clear day you can see all the way out to mount Olympus and the home of the Gods.

But the village has yet more to offer. Your last stop before continuing to the Petralona cave is the workshop of one of the last remaining piano craftsmen in Europe. Panos Ioannidis, or Panos Pianos to his friends, has chosen Nea Gonia for its dry climate and the high concentrations of calcium in its soil.

Importing the finest Sitka spruce straight from Vancouver Island in Canada, Panos designs, creates and refurbishes concert-hall pianos from scratch using in-house techniques. Watch the crafting of a “hand-made” piano, as he calls it, while listening to the sounds of Panos’ laterna (or barrel piano) playing traditional Greek tunes. Panos’ wife, Nikoleta, will treat you to the finest blend of filter coffee while you savor your own filo pie, prepared only half an hour ago with Goniatisses.

Your visit to Nea Gonia will soon be over and you will be on your way to the Petralona cave. But you can come again to attend one of the eight classical music concerts organized by Panos Ioannidis and the Kazakis family throughout the summer, starting on June 18, through to July 23.

For more information on the village and reservations on the concerts visit www.handmadepiano.eu/concerts or contact Mr. Sakis Kazakis at +30 69 36 00 77 00.

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SPIRITS

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Ouzo. The Greek Eau de Vie

Ouzo

The Greek Eau de Vie

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ounging at outdoor tables, nibbling on snacks and basking in the sun... indolent evenings of mezes and heartbreaking baglama... and, of course, ouzo, served straight, or with water or ice; they all suit the Greek summer.

Delightful, delicious, and, above all, Greek, our national spirit finds its ancestry in tsipouro, tsikoudia, and raki, all branches of a family tree going back to the time of the Ottoman Empire. It was then, you see, that ouzo first originated, the product of the distillation of “raki” (meaning the skins of the grapes) flavoured with anise, fennel, other aromatic herbs, and mastic. It was the upper classes that first went crazy over this transparent, strongly scented and playful drink, falling in love with the fire it kindles on the palate, and the sweet torpor that it introduces to the body. But because (as we well know) its taste transcends class, raki quickly became popular among all layers of society. Thus, from the palaces and mansions it rapidly moved on to the coffee houses, where it was served in a thousand different ways.

Consumer demand soared, soon pushing production to its limits. A solution appeared in the form of pure alcohol diluted with water, injecting a new vitality into the market. And so ouzo was born, the product of relentless consumer demand.

Production of the new product evolved rapidly. Served straight up to standing customers, or enjoyed more languidly, accompanied by mezedes, by lounging clients, it became an irreplaceable part of everybody’s everyday life. Clerks, merchants, labourers and artists all came together amidst the clouds of the anise fumes, and to this day we continue to experience “ouzo devotion”.

A Greek drink Aside from constituting the drink of sun and conversation, ouzo is by definition an alcoholic drink containing aniseed. Similar spirits, however, are produced in other Mediterranean countries, with perhaps the most famous being the French pastis. Our own drink is differentiated not only by its production techniques, but also by

certain special characteristics of its flavour. It is understandable, therefore, that the issue of securing the name “ouzo” as an exclusively Greek brand for this particular spirit inevitably arose. And so a long and arduous battle began, a struggle that we are thankful concluded with a positive outcome. Intense efforts by the Greek delegation bore fruit, and the question was eventually resolved by the E.E.C. in the Commission regulation on spirit drinks passed in May 1989 (No. 1576/89). Since then ouzo has officially been considered a Greek drink, with its regulation mandating that it is produced exclusively in Greece, via a particular production process.

Producing ouzo At the heart of ouzo production is the regulated distillation of grape skins and aromatic herbs in traditional, small copper boilers with capacities to exceed no more than 1.000 litres. Regulations demand that a bottle of ouzo contain no less than 20 per cent (up to 100 per cent) of this distilled product, with the balance supplied by an alcohol-herb infusion employing a combination of similar herbs and spices, possibly including anise, star anise, fennel, coriander, cardamom and other spices, as well as mastic from the indigenous mastic tree of the island of Chios. It is these various combinations, along with the individual art of each distiller, that provide us with the numerous recipes (and accordingly related tastes) for the beloved ouzo we know today.

Ouzo + Mezedes Ouzo never is served alone. It is always accompanied by mezedes (small plates): olives, pickled vegetables, salted anchovy, fried small fish.

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Les Lazaristes The Greek gastronomy is one of the elements that play a key role to Greek hospitality giving the visitor the opportunity to experience this part of our culture.

Greece is one of the favorite summer destinations not only for Europeans but for visitors from all over the world, who wish to enjoy its sea, sun and beaches. Inevitably, the Greek gastronomy is one of the elements that play a key role to Greek hospitality giving the visitor the opportunity to experience this part of our culture. Because Cuisine is not only about recipes, it above all about civilization, it means to love and to transform the material that nature gives, and to creatively express yourself using either innovative or traditional methods.

Domotel Les Lazaristes Art hotel, in Thessaloniki, right opposite the cultural center of Moni Lazariston historic Monastery, takes gastronomy really seriously and presents those who admire good taste with two exquisite suggestions.

Fred & Ginger Restaurant at Domotel Les Lazaristes Fred & Ginger Restaurant, next to the swimming pool of Domotel Les Lazaristes hotel, resets the fire of haute cuisine in Thessaloniki. Forget anything conventional. Fred & Ginger Restaurant has boosted the intensity, passion and artistry of the eating ritual. We search around Greece, for the best local ingredients, transforming them, into creative dishes, and we offer you summer recipes creating real gastronomy, real tastes.

Service is fast, friendly and warm. Exemplary. Worthy of all five stars of the Domotel Les Lazaristes hotel. The service at Fred & Ginger Restaurant, serves the concept of live interactive relation with the customer.

Domotel Les Lazaristes, Kolokotroni 16, Thessaloniki Reserve your palate experience at +30 2310 647400 Mare Monti Moni Lazariston In the courtyard of the historic monastery Moni Lazariston, there is the most authentic Italian proposal of Thessaloniki, the genuine Italian trattoria Mare e Monti.

Through its 3 years’ ongoing experience, Mare e Monti has introduced Thessaloniki to the Italian tradition, bringing selected ingredients directly from each and every corner of Italy to offer you authentic tastes. Entering the summer mood, it invites you to experience the light side of Italian cuisine, rich in fresh vegetables, herbs and famous pasta, point of reference to its Italian identity.

Accompany your evening with Calabria, Liguria, Lombardy and Tuscany secrets, enjoying the heart of their traditional products in the heart of Thessaloniki.

Let yourselves experience the enchanting aroma of Pinot Grigio, of Trebbiano and Chianti, under the stars of the most historic monastery in the city.

Combine your dinner with a drink at the Mare e Monti Bar and with one of the concerts and other cultural events taking place during the Moni Lazariston Summer Festival.

Opposite Domotel Les Lazaristes Art hotel Reserve your Italian experience at +30 2310-647410

Fred & Ginger

Fred & Ginger

Mare e Monti

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32

Olive oil, the elixir

Olive oil the elixir

The hills abound with olive trees arranged in terraces. Like soldiers standing in rows, the trees descend the slopes until the sea in hues of green, the parched colour of the soil and blue. This is the Mediterranean and this is the home of the olive: poor soil with rocks and stones. Long, hot summers. And slopes which greet with relief the caress of the revitalising meltemi winds.

The sea, never far away, takes the sharp edge out of the cold winters. Rain is scarce. Just the right conditions for the olive tree to offer up its 'liquid gold', its oil.

Producing olive oil

Olive oil, the fresh juice of the olive is a living product which requires special treatment. Numerous factors affect its quality and taste, and for that reason, at each stage of its life -from the olive grove until the end consumer- great care must be taken. Let us now examine in greater detail these various stages

From the olive grove…

The biological cycle of the olive tree is annual, thus all the seasons of the year contribute to the shaping of the fruit. We’ll start from the spring when the tree is in blossom. At this time, extreme weather phenomena are unwelcome since they may harm its flowers.

Moving on towards summer, the flower slowly starts developing into small fruit, called ‘shrapnel’ (shot) at first because of their tiny size. As we want them to grow and mature slowly, it is important that at this time we don’t have abnormal weather conditions, such as high atmospheric humidity or excessive heat. By autumn the fruit has begun to grow in size. It is at this stage that it’s beginning to produce oil, and therefore it is vital that the fruit isn’t attacked by harmful diseases such as the olive fly. Now we’ve reached winter, the period for harvesting, which is clearly considered to be the most critical. With their eyes turned to the skies, the producers pray for mild conditions.

… to the olive oil mill…

In the mill, the olives are emptied from the sacks and washed with clean water. They are fed then to the crusher where they are crushed by mechanical hammers (in the past burrstones were used). The olive juice is kneaded and pumped to the centrifuge where the seeds are

separated and removed. Finally, the olive oil is separated from the water and racked into storage tanks.

As one might imagine, it is very important to have clean conditions and the stainless steal storage tanks kept in a dark place. Also, to ensure that the nutritional and quality characteristics of olive oil are retained, it is vital to get the proper temperatures. When the whole process is correctly carried out, the olive oil retains all the fragrance, vitamins and taste of the original fruit.

… and to the bottling

The process of bottling includes filtering at low temperatures with special paper-filter so that the humidity and foreign particles are removed. After bottling, the olive oil is ready to be sent out to the markets.

Oilve oil and health

Modern medicine recommends the use of olive oil as a basic part of the diet of adults and children, sick and healthy alike thanks to its extraordinary properties. Looking in greater detail, we see that olive oil: • is rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, of great value for the synthesis of lipids, which provide energy to human cells, the ‘building blocks’ for our bodies.

• helps to absorb the body’s vitamins and thanks to the polyphenols it contains, helps to reduce the breaking up of the body’s fatty tissues.

• plays an important role in increasing and developing a child’s organism.

• helps to reduce ‘bad’ cholesterol (LDL) in the blood as well as to maintain the amount of ‘good’ cholesterol (HDL) in high levels, which prevents the blocking of arteries, and by extension, keeps at bay any

Savatiano Domaine Papagiannakos Fruity, crisp, clean.

Pleasant melon and peach fruit aromas. Refreshing and zippy.

Terrific with shellfish, seafood, cheeses and as an aperitif.

A very attractive, Savatiano from Markopoulo region of Attica that really shows the potential of the grape.

The wine is carefully produced in Papagiannakos Winery, the first winery especially designed and built in Greece according to innovative bioclimatic conditions and which most clearly marks a new era.

cardiovascular diseases which are today the major cause of death in modern western society.

• protects us from various types of cancer, since the monounsaturated oleic acid in olive oil is particularly resistant to oxidants which can be the trigger for cancer growth.

• delays the ageing process and helps to keep skin supple thanks to its fatty acids and high amounts of vitamin E, which stops oxidisation and the creation of free radicals.

• there is also a body of evidence suggesting that it helps to fights stomach ulcers by facilitating the digesting of carbohydrates.

• contributes to the good functioning of the metabolism.

A few statistics to digest

There are today around 810.000.000 olive trees worldwide, of which 98% are to be found in the Mediterranean.

Global olive oil production comes to 2.000.000 tons, while Greece’s 170.000 trees produce about 300.000 tons annually. This amount represents 20% of production worldwide, putting Greece in third position behind Italy and Spain.

Olive oil is now consumed by every nation. However, with an annual per capita consumption of 16 kilos, Greeks are in the top spot as far as consumption is concerned. More specifically, each Cretan gets through 30 kilos a year.

Demand for olive oil has been increasing at a steady rate of 1.8% in recent years, the result of an increasing awareness of the benefits of a Mediterranean and Cretan diet.

Domaine Papagiannakos Pousi – Kalogeri Markopoulo, Mesogaia, 19003 Attica T: +30 22990 25206, F: +30 22990 23554 www.papagiannakos.gr

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Greek cheeses | Maria Netsika

Greek cheeses

by Maria Netsika

Feta Our national pride and joy, the cheese delight of every Greek. Feta is made from sheep’s milk or a mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk, provided that this contains only a maximum total weight of 30% goat’s milk. Feta is ready to be consumed after it has matured for 2 months in wooden barrels or metal tins, though the more it matures, the better its taste.

Soft, white brined cheese with a buttery, slightly sour taste. The aroma, indistinct at low temperatures, starts to become apparent when the cheese warms up giving off an acidy, lemony fragrance. (PDO*) Kalathaki of Limnos I confess my weak spot for this ultra-white, salty cheese, and by the by, for the sun-kissed island where it’s produced. This is a real local feta which is strained and matured in traditional small baskets. That explains its embossed shape. Rich, full taste and tinged with the unique flora of Limnos. (PDO) Kasseri This yellow, medium-hard cheese with a soft, oily and sweetish taste, is imbued with the aroma of sheep’s milk (or mixture of goat’s and sheep’s milk) from which it is made. The traditional savoury kasseri of our childhood has a full taste and an aroma redolent of almond. (PDO) Graviera The spicy graviera needs sheep’s (or goat’s) milk and at least 3 to 6 months maturation. It is yellow in colour and full of tiny holes across its surface. It has a subtle fruity aroma, and yet its taste is salty and spicy with a kick of nuts. The most renowned graviera is that of Crete followed

by Naxos (from cow’s milk), Agrafon (all PDO) and the wonderful graviera of Tinos.

Ladotyri Exclusive to lovely Lesvos, this equally lovely ladotyri is a gift to the world as far as Greek cheeses go. It matures in oil, taking on a rich and exceptionally spicy taste. (PDO)

Anthotyros Savoury white cheese made of sheep’s and goat’s milk. It is ready to be consumed fresh after just a few weeks of maturation following production. Its aroma fully justifies the name, since the ‘bloom of cheeses’ conveys strong fragrances of freshness and a hint of the spring flowers on which the animals feed. (pending PDO) Manouri Among most popular Greek cheeses, principally because of its heavenly rich, soft briny taste. Ultra-fresh and ultra-white cheese, matured for only a few days after being made. Its richness in fats (36%) guarantees through its sticky texture and subtle saltiness an opulent, buttery, briny taste. If you leave it to mature and dry a little, it’s perfect grated over pasta. (PDO) Myzithra Soft and tender, light and airy, velvety myzithra is an innocent caress on the palette.

Metsovone This classic cheese from Metsovo is made from a mixture of sheep’s and cow’s milk. Its tight, supple flesh is dressed in the mysteries of a measured bouquet of smoke, mushrooms and butter. (PDO) Kopanisti The Cycladic answer to Roquefort is made from sheep’s, goat’s or cow’s milk. Its extra spicy white-tan, speckly mass has a sharp, milky, peppery burning aroma and the fiery taste of pepper. (PDO) Batzos A white cheese in brine from Macedonia and Thessaly. It has a spicy, salty taste and is recommended to be used in frying. (PDO) Krassotyri A soft white or yellow cheese from sheep’s or goat’s milk, made in the Cyclades and the Dodecanese. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that it matures for between 2 and 12 months in wine lies. This explains the touches of wine and butter we discern when we taste it.

Mylopotamos Mount Athos Mylopotamos is the largest dependency of the Holy Monastery of Great Lavra. For more than a thousand years, the grapes of Mylopotamos vineyards have produced multiply-blessed communion wine. Today, in this miraculous and saintly place many varieties thrive, albeit due to the hard labour of human hands.

A Silver Medal winner at the 2010 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Mylopotamos white is made exclusively from carefully chosen grapes of the Muscat of Alexandria and Roditis varieties, from our vineyards.

Refreshingly pure this aromatic wine exhibits lots of rose petals and fresh herb aromas.

Pair with: seafood, meat and green salads, cheese and fruit.

The Silver Medal Mylopotamos Lefkos 2009 Regional Wine of Macedonia

Wine and cheese: the adagio of harmony

Mylopotamos - Mount Athos

Feta + retsina Further suggestions: If you’re looking for something a bit different, try a white wine from Assyrtiko or Robola.

Kalathaki of Limnos + Moschofilero Kasseri + fresh Chardonnay Graviera + Xinomavro, Mandilaria, Cabernet-Merlot blend Note: If your graviera comes from Crete it prefers a wine from its own area, such as the red from Archanes. The graviera from Agrafa loves the Xinomavro and the Cycladitissa (from Naxos or Tinos) is getting along fine with the Cabernet-Merlot blend.

Ladotyri + Assyrtiko Anthotyros + Moschofilero Manouri + aromatic Sauvignon Blanc or Malagouzia Metsovone + Chardonnay aged in barrel Kopanisti + sweet Muscat from Samos or Limnos Batzos + Xinomavro Krassotyri + Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah

Mylopotamos I.K. Ag. Evsthathiou P. Box 86, 630 86 Agion Oros T: +30 23770 23774

* PDO: Protected Designation of Origin

Vyzantiou 17, 546 28 Thessaloniki TÂ : + 30 2310 522211

www.mywines.gr

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36

The jar with the sweet

by Eftihis Bletsas

D

ip your spoon in the jar and always make sure that you catch the piece you like the most, the

one you chose upon unscrewing the slightly resistant sugary lid. A small plate awaits you. Carefully you poke the piece you had caught, pouring syrup over it and watching it slowly drip, at turns transparent and coloured. Always sweet and viscous.

Oftentimes, the most delightful and the most delicious can be also the simplest of things… a sweet without cream or chocolate, just fruit and sugar, a sweet in every sense of the word.

There was a time when sweet preserves were to be found in every Greek home, always created in the kitchen where the housewife would demonstrate her expertise. Their minimal price and minute amount of ingredients -miniscule fruit, miniature vegetables, flower petals, water, sugar and a drop of lemon- negated all inequalities of income and made the welcome of any guest that bit more delightful, both in the salons of the wealthy as well as in the sitting room of the poor, imposing a curious democracy when it came to the welcoming of guests. They would sharpen the palette with their intoxicating fragrances, whetting the appetite -in the blink of an eye- pumping the sugar around the bloodstream, creating an unbearably sweet thirst which would end sensually with a glass of water, making it the most harmonious prelude for the coffee slowly boiling on the hob.

And the most important of all: with this and that, they would render those words and wishes issuing from the mouths of those people sweeter still. Later, after the visit, they would once again find their place high up in the cupboard for the scallywags to secretly search them out, running the risk of besmirching their criminal records with the first misdemeanour of their lives, if they were caught, that is.

This all seems rather distant to us now, even quaint. Our lives have changed dramatically, our social lives now, for the most part, take place in public places, houses have become inaccessible private boltholes, housewives are on the wane, sweetmeats are standardised, kids grow up wanting for nothing and most likely there’s no room for sweet talk any more. Of course, sweet preserves are still a part of our lives, principally as a welcome cottage industry food or popular product of agro-tourism and much less as the imaginative creations of those women who stubbornly insist on perpetuating those tastes in their kitchens. However, no matter how much they keep their tastes -not as full as in times of yore it must be said- the power of their symbolic meaning in our everyday lives is lost. Without having vanished, today,

when placed on the little kafenion tables or on the shelves of tourist stores, they appear more as a strong wistful memory of the past.

And yet! The sweet preserve is a massive, original, delicious and almost exclusive chapter in the history of traditional Greek tastes -and at the same time the richest and most extreme expression of gastronomic minimalism on a global scale. It is a humble art which transforms, with very few ingredients, a great deal of imagination and even more secrets, every imaginable fruit on earth -in its entirety, together with their shape and tastiness- into small scrumptious fireworks which explode, setting our dark palettes alight in a coruscating flash.

Cherry, plum, grape, fig, apricot, quince, sour orange, bergamot, strawberry, orange, lemon, water melon, peanut, walnut, courgette, chestnut, aubergine, cherry tomato, rose, lemon blossom… virtually all fruits -and not only fruits- in heir tender youth are dipped ceremoniously in syrup and adorn, deliciously, the kaleidoscopically coloured shelves of the imaginary fruit and sweet store of the four seasons.

Now and again, when I’m treated in someone’s house and after having, as one must, toasted the hosts with sweet words, I am grabbed by the thought that perhaps sweet preserves are the only kind of sweet that could have been made in Eden, if, that is, the original sin hadn’t intervened. I shall never find out if Adam and Eve were the first to discover these, but what I do know is that they are here today to remind us of the lost paradise of tastes from another, more innocent time. I’m not so naïve as to believe that it is easy to rediscover their former role in our everyday lives. I do believe however that it is worth rediscovering them once more and to give them a new role which would suit them, enjoying them alone or with friends, in a moment of rest between two tasks, two thoughts, two glances, two conversations… I believe that it is really worth now and again slipping a sweet preserve into our mouths –as well as a full stop to the frantic pace of our everyday lives.

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Tips for success By boiling the fruit in sugar, we can keep it in that form for quite some time. Over the passage of time, this necessity became an art and the art was passed down from one generation to the next. Despite the fact that this sweet seems to be vanishing bit by bit, there are still many throughout Greece who still possess the right technique and the well-concealed secrets to make a great sweet preserve.

If you follow certain general rules which apply for just about all the sweet preserves, you should succeed in producing a fine sweet.

• The fruit must be -on most occasions- unripe or hard and tight.

• The saucepan must be boiling at a high temperature for a short time.

• Never stir the pot while it’s boiling.

• The big challenge is to get the right temperature for the syrup. If you’ve not got the experience to get the timing right, take a kitchen thermometer and wait until it reaches 110ºC. • Use sterilised jars for correct preservation of your sweets.

Some of the rarest and most characteristic sweet preserves are the cherry tomato from Kos, the bean from Florina, the small aubergine from Leonidio, the firiki apple from Pilion, the rose and lemon blossom from Chios as well as many more such as plum, grape, quince, water melon, chestnut, citron, bergamot, and wild cherry.

Recently, in Grevena for the first time worldwide a sweet preserve was successfully made from a kind of yellow mushroom, which had the aroma of apricot!

Whether it be after a midday nap in the summer with a glass of chilled water, in the winter with a well-roasted Greek coffee, or served up after a meal on a little strained yoghurt or kaimaki ice-cream, the sweet preserve will always be there, bringing its little bundle of joy and its sweet memories.

Enjoy our award winning wines...

Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Amyndeon 1st km Amyndeon - Florina T: +30 23860 22258

www.easamyntaiou.grr

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38

What to buy from Greece

What to buy from Greece

by Evi Kallini, Evi Karkiti, Maria Kopsahili, Maria Netsika

The delicacies we describe here are treats we have sampled in the shade of plane trees in village squares, in little cafes by the water’s edge, at long, lazy breakfasts with lots of talk and gallons of coffee. And when we leave, we will take with us some of the flavours we have grown used to, a little piece of summer preserved in our cupboards at home, a fragrance of summer to brighten the long winter months.

Corfu The delicious kumquat of course -what else! You can take home that superb, bitter-sweet taste of the little citrus fruits in the form of preserved fruit or sweet liqueur. Another Corfiot delicacy that is also worthy of your attention is nouboulo -paper-thin slices of smoked pork.

And while you are enjoying a warm afternoon on the Spianada, try the island tsitsibyra -a distinctive, spicy lemonade with ginger, made here as far back as the reign of King Othon.

Cephalonia High up in the hills the island air is rich with the fragrance of oregano and savoury, but down in the squares, and especially when you are near a patisserie, there is a ubiquitous scent of roasted almonds. This is the land of the mandola, almonds roasted with sugar and then dyed the colour of cherries. And next to it in the shop window you are sure to see the komfeto, the local sweet made of quince paste, holding whole almonds in its mastic-scented embrace. And of course, don’t leave the island without trying Robola, the famous local wine.

Zakynthos One invariable feature of all romantic Greek comedies filmed in Zante was always the mandolato, which came to be known as the sweet of lovers. It can be found everywhere on the island, as can pasteli, the other tempting sweet. But there are more temptations not to be resisted here, including the sweet Verdea wine, the second Greek wine after Retsina to be officially granted Traditional Appellation status.

Lefkada If you are travelling to Lefkada, visit the village of Englouvi and buy some of the delicious local lentils. When winter returns, get out a saucepan and prepare a dish of lentil soup to remind you of the island.

Limnos All visitors to the island of Hephaestus will enjoy the fragrant Muscat of Alexandria wines. Some of my fondest memories come from combining these wines with melichloro -a honey-coloured cheese, half-way between fresh and aged. Take some home with you -the version they sell back in the city is no match for the real thing.

Lesvos Believe it or not, Lesvos is home to a Greek version of sushi. Small sardines caught in the morning are salted, drained and ready to be eaten at midday as a mezes with ouzo. Packaged and sold as Kalloni sardines, the fish are a little fleshier. The box they come in seems to date back 40 or 50 years. I mustn’t forget to mention, also, the island ladotyri, one of the 19 Greek cheeses with PDO status. And of course, the local ouzo, the best of which is made with anise from Lisvori.

Chios Chios mastic is a product renowned far and wide, the producers having taken the decision to promote its multiple uses, its healing and cosmetic properties and its appeal to an international market. The range of mastic-based products includes cosmetics, toothpastes, sweets, candles, superb liqueurs -just about anything you can think of! You should also try the island’s amazing preserved lemon flowers.

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Samos Obviously, you will want to bring back home some of the island’s sweet wines. To help you in your choice, let me mention that some of the wines are sold quite fresh, just a few months from harvesting of the grapes. These are the Samos Vin Doux and Samos Grand Cru. Other wines are aged in oak barrels to allow their magnificent bouquet to develop like the famous, award-winning Samos Anthemis. And finally, there are the velvety Samos Nectar wines, made from overripe or sun dried grapes and aged in barrel for four to five years.

Tinos Practically wherever you go in the Cyclades you will encounter almond pastries and sweets. Don’t fight it, just relax and enjoy them! And take some back home when you leave. The almond pastries from Tinos are filled with orange, walnut or cherry. Absolutely delicious. There is also the strange lemony delicacy known as tsimbiti -light fyllo pastry filled with cottage cheese, egg and lemon. Definitely worth sampling. Tinos is also famous for its cheeses. We recommend those made by the local cooperative, particularly the one marketed as Tiniako Tyraki. While you’re on the island, be sure to visit the delicatessen Ev Zein, which has a wide range of superb products.

Syros Try the halvas pie and loukoum from the tiny Korres patisserie. The former is filled with almond, pistachio or mastic. Try them all and see which you like best. When it comes to the loukoum, I can’t decide which is my favourite. I like to concentrate and sample them one by one, little sugary cubes flavoured with mastic, rose, walnut and the delicious bergamot.

Finally, don’t forget to shop for some of the spicy San Mihalis cheese.

Mykonos On departure from fashionable, windswept Mykonos, you must pack some of their local almond pastries and sweets. A delicate crust of pastry which melts in the mouth to unleash the delicious mastic texture and flavour within. Not to be missed.

Santorini You’ll be shopping first, of course, for the famous Santorini wines -both dry and the sweet Vinsanto. And without fail, you’ll be taking home some capers, which you can buy either dried or in the form of pickled caper leaves. Also on your list: the famous Santorini cherry tomatoes, which you can buy preserved in a jar, with cinnamon, vanilla and almonds. And finally, the legendary fava beans. You will never feel you’ve had enough of the island fava, so make sure you buy several packets before you leave.

Andros Ask for the rare local cheeses -chlorotyri, petroti and manouso- as well as an unusual sweet, preserved lemon blossom, found only on Andros, available in May when the lemon trees blossom.

Kythera Must-buys on Kythera include fatourada (tsipouro with cinnamon and cloves), Kythera honey, crunchy, crisp ladopaximada (rusks with oil), and garlands of sempreviva, a little yellow flower which grows on the steep cliffs around the coast and has become something of an island trademark.

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Deli on the spot | Melina Melikidou

Deli on the spot 40

by Melina Melikidou

Santorini fava beans

Traditional grey mullet bottarga powder

Santorini fava beans were recently awarded PDO status, joining the official list of agricultural products and foods whose designation of origin is safeguarded in law. This distinctive product appears to have earned a niche for itself in the international market, vindicating the efforts and hard work of the Union of Santorini Cooperatives, which, we hear, has also submitted an PDO status application for the island’s cherry tomatoes. The beans should be cooked using the classic recipe, with a little oil, onion, parsley and lemon. They can be served as rissoles or combined with meat, capers or aubergines.

World-famous for its distinctive flavour and unique properties, traditional Trikalinos bottarga occupies a leading place in the international market for gourmet products. Low in calories, but rich in proteins, Omega 3 fatty acids, selenium, vitamins A, B, C, iron and calcium, it is sold in both conventional and powdered form. Free of preservatives or other additives, it can be used to add a taste of the sea to sauces or as a flavouring for grilled fish, soups, boiled or steamed vegetables. It can also be combined with rice, pasta and green salads, or with pizza, boiled eggs and omelettes, even spread on slices of buttered bread.

Union of Santorini Cooperatives Pyrgos, Santorini T: +30 22860 22596 | www.santowines.gr

Trikalinos Ltd. 50 Ethnarhou Makariou St., Dafni, Attica T: +30 210 9273660 | www.trikalinos.gr

Marianna’s vine leaves and vine tops

Altis Extra Virgin Green Olive Oil

It is only natural that the name of the small family business in Nea Gonia, Halkidiki, should be associated with its best-known product -Marianna’s vine leaves. This was the product with which Marianna Kazaki launched her traditional range of organic vine leaf preparations. With all the family contributing in their different ways, the business expanded and now sells a whole range of vine products. Particularly distinctive and delicious are the ambelokorfes, the coiling vinetops which are harvested in springtime, when the heads of the vines are clipped and the leaves are still young and tender.

On the same day they are harvested, they are pickled with salt and vinegar, and can be served alone or used to garnish salads or to accompany pulses or dishes cooked in oil.

Try it once, and we can guarantee you’ll be looking forward each year to the superb virgin olive oil from the first harvest of olives. This unique Altis olive oil is sold in a limited number of bottles and is remarkable for its rich, piquant and discreetly bitter flavour, which brings out the fruitiness of the olive as well as the distinctive green apple taste. The olives are a rare variety grown in the coastal areas of Lakonia and harvested from Mid-October to mid-November.

The product’s sell-by date, just 9 months from the date of production, is intended to ensure it retains its rich organic properties and high natural anti-oxidant content.

Kazakis Ltd. Nea Gonia, Halkidiki T: +30 23990 20450 | www.vineleaves.gr

Elais, Athens T: +30 210 6304500 | www.elais.gr

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Xinomavro Wine Vinegar and Balsamic Vinegar

The original idea for a contemporary vinegar factory can be attributed to winemaker and Mayor of Thessaloniki, Yiannis Boutaris, and the project was taken up and implemented with great enthusiasm by Giorgos Anastassopoulos, General Manager of the Kir Yianni company. As a result a vinegar factory was established at the at Agios Georgios in Veria. Using the expertise and equipment of the Frings company, the facility produces two vinegars of exceptional quality, using the Xinomavro wines of Kir Yianni as its raw ingredients. The two vinegars produced are the Xinomavro and Balsamic, both of which can be used in sophisticated marinades or as an ideal salad accompaniment. Both products are sold, at present, by the Kir Yianni winery.

Kir Yianni Yiannakohori, Naousa T: +30 23320 51100 | www.kiryianni.gr

Organic halvas

The Bistro

Excelsior Hotel For coffee or breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a drink, the Bistro, the main restaurant of Excelsior Hotel, is the best choice for you in order to enjoy the rhythms of the city.

The chef creates unique worth-tasting specialties, by using fresh ingredients of every season, which are offered all day long. Besides, the Bistro’s most important characteristic is that the menu changes 4 times a year, depending on the season.

Nutritious and rich in flavour, the organic halvas produced by the Haitoglou company is a must-have item in any healthy diet. It is produced using organic sesame paste, organic sugar and glucose. This is an ideal food for any time of day, for any age group, and can be served as a delightful breakfast with your morning coffee or tea, or as a dessert, with lemon or cinnamon. Alternatively, you can use it as a base for original sweets with orange sauce, as an ice cream base, in a prune tart or in biscuits or vanilla ice cream.

Haitoglou Bros Kalohori, Thessaloniki T: +30 2310 751190 | www.haitogloubros.com

Additionally, due to its comfortable and relaxing atmosphere, the Bistro is ideal for a drink after work or a light lunch from the «discovery menu», where all the plates are offerred in small portions.

The Bistro has already distinguished by imposing the idea that quality gastronomy can be reached in every day’s life and has to be affordable.

The Excelsior Hotel Thessaloniki 10 Komninon St. & 23 Mitropoleos Av., Thessaloniki-Greece Central Reservation: +30 2310 021 000 Tel: +30 2310 021020, 2310 021010 www.excelsiorhotel.gr

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Eating in Thessaloniki | Evi Kallini

Eating in Thessaloniki

by Evi Kallini

Summer is here! The restaurants are putting their tables and chairs out on the pavements and walkways. Every corner of the city -from the Old City to the port and Nea Krini- is full of delightful gastronomic surprises.

Shark

Clochard

Mylos - Frangon St. - Valaoritou St. - Bezesteni (covered market) Chan Highly stylish Asian restaurant, part of the equally stylish Met Hotel.

Modern décor and a modern approach to Asian flavours.

(48 26 Oktovriou St., tel. +30 2310 017000) .ES Café-bar-restaurant with fresh and relaxed atmosphere, right by the floodlit Byzantine walls of the city. The menu leans heavily to Mediterranean ingredients and techniques, and new dishes are added regularly. (2-4 Frangon St. and O. Diamanti St, tel. +30 2310 532503) Coq au zen Delightful French bistro, a gastronomic oasis amidst the bustle of the Valaoritou neighbourhood, offering a small but carefully fashioned menu. (37 Valaoritou St., Thessaloniki, tel. +30 2310 520119) Ouzou Melathron [House of Ouzo] Crowded, with tables spilling out across the pavements of the arcade, this is a happy, lively place to eat, with a menu featuring renowned Greek mezedes, a sheer delight to the palate.

(21, 27, 29, 30 Karypi St., Stoa Ermeion, tel. +30 2310 275016) Agora A popular ouzeri also famed for its food. A favourite haunt of journalists, artists and politicians since it opened 15 years ago.

(5 Kapodistriou St., tel. +30 2310 532428)

Port - Ladadika - Eleftherias Square Kitchen Bar All day dining, coffee and drinks at a beautifull warehouse in the port.

(Warehouse II, Port of Thessaloniki, tel. +30 2310-502241) Panellinion Popular with artists, the Panellinion offers delicious dishes from various parts of Greece. (1 Doxis and Salaminos Streets, tel. +30 2310 567220)

B.

Zythos

Kioupia Located in a building dating from the 1950’s, the restaurant specializes in traditional Greek dishes. (3-5 Morihovou Square, tel. +30 2310 553239) Kreopoleio [The Butcher’s] A modern grill house combining traditional grilled dishes with the barbeque of the American South. Meat grilled on charcoal or spits, lots of traditional Greek starters and cooked dishes.

(Kalapothaki St. & 8 Venizelou St., tel. +30 2310 252011) 7thalasses [7 seas] The post-modern fish taverna par excellence! You will imagine you are on Mykonos! Friendly staff, good atmosphere, fresh fish, shellfish, seafood and well-informed wine list (10 Kalapothaki St., tel. +30 2310 233173) Bistrot Elegant environment and high-quality cuisine at the restaurant of the Excelsior Hotel. Creativity and tradition blended in a range of Mediterranean dishes.

(10 Komninon St. & 23 Mitropoleos St., tel. +30 2310 021020) Ladiko Everyday restaurant with cuisine focusing on Greek dishes, but complemented by other Mediterranean flavours.

(3 Komninon St., tel. +30 2310 268388) Stoa Modiano - Aristotelous Square Ayioli A restaurant located on the ground floor of the Electra Palace Hotel, on the city’s most attractive, central square. Menu featuring imaginative blends of Mediterranean ingredients.

(9 Aristotelous Square, tel. +30 2310 262888) Frutti di Mare The restaurant has tables out on the pavement all year round, with a view of the Bazaar Hamam. Enjoy your wine with delicious seafood and meat mezedes. (20 Komninon St., tel. +30 2310 239100)

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43

Tre Marie

Chan

.ES

Ahinos & Fouskes Classic version of the popular kind of modern fish taverna, a meeting place with a lovely fresh sea breeze, right in the heart of the Thessaloniki market area, next to the entrance to the Modiano Arcade.

(26 Ermou St., tel. +30 2310 281566)

Banquet All day bar restaurant with very positive vibes. The Serbian chef specializes mainly in creative Mediterranean cuisine, while the barman holds the World Class Bartender Award for 2009.

(7 D. Gounari St., tel. +30 2310 228520)

Proxenou Koromila St. Clochard Classic venue for lovers of good food. Award-winning Greek cuisine with some beautifully prepared international dishes.

(4 Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 239805)

Zythos - Doré Well-known haunt of artists and intellectuals. The courtyard offers refreshing shade and a view of the White Tower, while the cuisine prepares a range of Mediterranean flavours, same with Zythos in Ladadika. (7 Tsiroyianni St., tel. +30 2310 279010)

Ta Nisia [The islands] Mediterranean cuisine, with the focus mainly on fish; a rich menu of more than 150 different types of seafood dish, including starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses.

(13 Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 285991)

Restaurant Lounge Bar Β The restaurant is located inside the Museum of Byzantine Culture. With its beautifully designed atrium, full of greenery, it offers a breath of fresh air in summer months and a superb Mediterranean menu.

(2 G. Septembriou St., tel. +30 2310 869695)

Agia Sofia - Diagonios - White Tower - International Trade Fair Garcon Brasserie Café-bar-restaurant with a trendy environment and the best balcony on the old waterfront. The cuisine follows current trends.

(Nikis Av. & 2 Ag. Sofias St., tel. +30 2310 253033)

Bit Bazaar - Old City Bit Bazaar [Flea Market] A welcoming, friendly atmosphere in the picturesque antiques market district. Fine cuisine blending traditional flavours from Greece and Constantinople. (32-34 Prosfygikis Agoras, tel. +30 2310 278097)

Tre Marie Chain of café-bar-restaurants reminiscent of elegant Milanese bistros and food halls in European capitals. Idyllic atmosphere and Italian cuisine for the sophisticated palate.

(13 P. P. Germanou St., tel. +30 2310 240051, 57 T. Sofouli St., Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 403655, 13 Venizelou St., Panorama, tel. +30 2310 343344, Pylaia, tel. +30 2310 302323)

Yenti Ouzeri with rembetiko music, in the shadow of the old Yenti Koule prison. Serves a wide range of meat and seafood dishes.

(13 Ioannou Papareska St., Yenti Koule, tel. +30 2310 246495)

Daios Food Bar - Restaurant The restaurant-bar-café of the Hotel Daios, at a fabulous location on the old waterfront, serving Italian cuisine. The restaurant has close links with the famous Salumaio di Montenapoleone in Milan.

(59 Nikis Ave., tel. +30 2310 254692)

Moni Lazariston Fred & Ginger The restaurant of the Les Lazaristes Hotel, which has won over bon viveurs with its beautiful design, cosmopolitan atmosphere and gourmet cuisine! (16 Kolokotroni St., Stavroupoli, tel. +30 2310 647444)

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Eating in Thessaloniki | Evi Kallini

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Alfredo’s Garden

Ahinos & Fouskes

7thalasses

Mare e Monti Authentic Italian trattoria, twinned with restaurant of the same name in Panorama, famed for its high-quality ingredients and genuine Italian dishes. (13 Venizelou St., Panorama, tel. +30 2310 343344, 21 Kolokotroni St., Stavroupoli, tel. +30 2310 647410)

Miami Fish taverna popular with celebrities, local businessmen and others.

Beautiful views of the sea from the terrace, with refreshing sea breeze -the ideal setting for an unforgettable dinner.

(18 Thetidos St., Nea Krini, tel. +30 2310 447996)

Nea Egnatia - Toumba Skoufos Appealing, youthful restaurant championing the return to simple flavours. The menu, with a distinct leaning to seafood, is designed to appeal to lovers of fresh food.

(140 Konstantinoupoleos St., tel. +30 23130 02207)

O Tasos One of the city’s top fish tavernas, famous for its high-quality cuisine and exceptional service. The fish soup is not to be missed.

(8 Phaethonos St., Nea Krini, tel. +30 2310 430523)

Mavri Thalassa [Black Sea] Very popular fish taverna, along the lines of the classic tavernas in Nea Krini, but at the opposite end of the city. Menu features fresh fish, shellfish and other seafood dishes.

(63 A. Thrakis St., Κ. Toumba, tel. +30 2310 932542) Faliro - Kalamaria - Nea Krini Maison Crystal Excellent location, chic décor and international cuisine for this fashionable bar-restaurant. (6 M. Alexandrou St., tel. +30 2310 888865) Shark This waterside bar-restaurant offers the best views of the sunset to be had anywhere in the city. A popular venue with an interesting menu featuring classic and international dishes. Excellent wine selection.

(2 Argonafton St. & T. Sofouli St., tel. +30 2310 416855-6) To koutouki tou kavouri [The crab’s shell] Ouzeri and fish taverna, with superb fresh fish, seafood and delicious mezedes. Every aspect of the venue contributes to a warm and friendly ambiance. (71 M. Kallidou St. & Xifilinon St., tel. +30 2310 419051) Yialos Classic fish and mezedes taverna, enjoying superb location on the waterfront at Kalamaria. Ouzo or wine accompanied by delicious mezedes. (Ν. Plastira St., tel. +30 2310 442121)

Hamodrakas Well-known Nea Krini fish taverna, founded in 1926. Specializing in seafood, the business has been handed down from father to son in the Gofas family. (13 Μ. Gagyli St., tel. +30 2310 447943) Airport Alfredo’s Garden Οpen air restaurant in the lush gardens of the Regency Casino. The summer location of Alfredo’s, one of the city’s top, multi award-winning restaurants. The cuisine of chef Apostolos Altanis is a mix of local and Italian, served in an idyllic setting with an orchestra to entertain diners with easy-listening music. Excellent wine selection.

(12th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 491199) Amvrosia Sunny, spacious, comfortably casual the restaurant of Hyatt Regency.

Chef Kostas Ambatzis features modern Greek cuisine. Classic dishes creatively enhanced. Extensive wine list.

(13th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 401234) Ristorante Da Vinci Tastefully designed restaurant at the Nikopolis Hotel, with a menu featuring sophisticated Italian cuisine. The gastronomic quality one would expect from one of the Leading Hotels of the World. (16-18 Asklipiou St., Pylaia, tel. +30 2310 401000)

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Eating in Athens

Eating in Athens

45

Culinary delights reviewed by: Deni Kallivoka, Niki Mitarea

Grand Balcon

GB Corner

Syntagma Square - Kolonaki - Ethnikos Kypos GB Corner Art deco atmosphere, opulent setting, superb service -all at Athens’ most chic and long-established bistro, opened in 1974. An all time classic choice, with authentic Greek dishes from talented chef Sotiris Evangelou.

(Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Square, tel. +30 210 3330000) Cellier Le Bistrot A well-known and popular eating place on Panepistimiou St, famed for its extensive wine list, classic meat and Greek cooked dishes.

(10 Panepistimiou St., tel. +30 2103638525) Cibus Set in the historic grounds of the Zappeion, with a magical view of the Acropolis and delicious Italian cuisine, Cibus is a veritable oasis in the heart of the city. (Zappeion Gardens, tel. +30 210 3369369) Ratka For 30 years now, this has been one of the city’s most fashionable meeting places for businessmen, politicians, journalists and society figures! One of those venues whose charm seems immune to the passing of time.

Agreeable food served in the ambiance of a French bistro.

(30-32 Haritos St., Kolonaki, tel. +30 210 7290746) Scala Vinoteca Delightful, small wine bar restaurant, one of the most fashionable in the city. The food of chef Christoforos Peskias is delicious.

(50 Sina St., tel. 210 3610041) Tzitzikas kai Mermingas [The cicada and the ant] Youthful, value-for-money restaurant. Serving mainly mezedes in warm, agreeable atmosphere, décor reminiscent of a traditional general store; wide choice of mezedes on offer.

(12-14 Mitropoleos St., tel. +30 210 3247607)

Spondi

Keramikos - Ano Petralona Varoulko Original and multi-award-winning fish recipes by Lefteris Lazarou, combining personality and superb technique.

(80 Piraeos St., tel. +30 210 5228400) Athiri Stylish dining in an atmospheric setting. Innovative Greek dishes from chef Alexandros Kardasis. (15 Plataion St., Keramikos, tel. +30 210 3462983) Cryssa Beautiful place and carefully selected dishes, cooked by a lady who has mastered the art of being a hostess.

(81, Dimofontos St., Ano Petralona, tel: +30 210 3412515) Psyrri - Gazi Hytra One of the best restaurants in Athens. A menu of Mediterranean dishes, with a pronounced Greek influence.

(7 Navarchou Apostoli St., Psyrri, tel. +30 2103316767) Dirty Ginger Good, honest fare served in a pleasant ambiance at reasonable prices, with excellent, lively music to complete the evening. The focus is mainly on traditional grilled dishes, but prepared in an inventive spirit.

(46 Triptolemou St. & Persefonis St., Gazi, tel. +30 210 3423809) Pangrati Spondi Gourmet & formal. Greece’s top restaurant presents contemporary French cuisine with dazzling artistry, by Michelin awarded chefs Bignon and Frechon. Beautifully cool courtyard. The wine list features near 1300 labels. (6 Pyrronos St., tel. +30 210 7520658, +30 210 7564021)

46

Dirty Ginger

Petit Sommelier

Cucina Povera Sommelier Yannis Kaimenakis and chef Manos Zournatzis present freshly cooked dishes, with seasonal ingredients backed by an intriguing wine list with 300 different labels. All at poor man’s prices!

(13 Evforionos St., Kallimarmaro, tel. +30 210 7566008)

Whispers of Wine Tasty Italian and Mediterannean recipes with a Greek influence combined with an extensive, well-informed wine list. A cosy, freindly wine restauran. (48 Ag. Konstantinou, Maroussi, tel. +30 210 6179051)

Vasilissis Sofias Milos restaurant The gourmet restaurant of the Hilton Hotel. Excellent fish cuisine and rare Greek deli. (Hotel Hilton, 46, Vas. Sofias Ave., tel. +30 210 7244400) Galaxy Bar The last word in cosmopolitan venues, recognized and awarded as one of the world’s best sky bars. Breathtaking view of the city, cocktails, finger food and BBQ for the seriously hungry.

(Hotel Hilton, 46, Vas. Sofias Ave., tel. +30 210 7281000) Alatsi Very popular restaurant with high level traditional Cretan cuisine.

(13, Vrassida St., (opposite the Hilton), tel. +30 210 210 72 10 501) Fuga The Athens Concert Hall’s own restaurant, looking out across the city.

Modern Mediterranean cuisine presented by chef Pantaleo de Pinto, supervised by the great Andrea Berton.

(Athens Concert Hall, Vas. Sofias Ave. & 1 Kokkali St., tel. +30 210 7242979) Ambelokipi Balthazar Neo-classical architecture, divine setting and beautiful courtyard.

Modern cuisine.

(D. Soutsou & 27 Tsocha St., Ampelokipoi, tel. +30 210 6412300) Ν. Irakleio Vinotera resto & cava The restaurant has direct links to one of the best cellars in the district and is a favourite with serious wine lovers. Mediterranean cuisine with a wide variety of plats du jour.

(74-76 Marinou Antypa St., Ν. Irakleio, tel. +30 210 2792100) Halandri - Maroussi - Kifisia Enoteca The wine restaurant of Costas Toulomtzis, vice-president of Greek sommelier offers an impressive wine collection and authentic Italinan dishes. (33 Pentelis Av., Halandri, tel. +30 210 6890238)

P Box A New York-style deli restaurant. Exuberant chef Christophoros Peskias runs an open kitchen, working his magic among his pots and pans in full view of the diners. The restaurant is on the small side, with one wall covered in shelves stocked with all sorts of delicacies for sale.

(11 Levidou St., Kifisia, tel. +30 210 8088818) Yevseis me onomasia proelefsis [Tastes with an Appellation of Origin] A fine old house in Kifisia, elegantly decorated and with a friendly atmosphere, serving sophisticated Greek cuisine lovingly prepared by chef Nena Ismyrnoglou. (317 Kifisias Ave, tel. +30 210 8001402) Tilemachos Traditional Greek tavern that has developed into a warm, modern grill house. Tasty appetizers, properly cooked meat, great wine list.

(19 Fragkopoulou St., Kato Kifisia, tel. +30 210 8077468) Piazza Mela Piazza Mela -the minimalist Italian restaurant in the Mela Shopping Mall.

Sample one of the beautifully prepared salads or risottos, and relax with a glass of wine. (238 Kifisias Ave., tel. +30 210 6236596) Neo Faliro - Alimos Prasinos Lofos [Green Hill] Tried and tested Cretan delicacies, served in a tranquil setting surrounded by pine trees -one of the city’s favourite dinner venues.

(89 Alimou Ave., Osios Lavrentios, Alimos, tel. +30 210 9913811) Petit Sommelier For those interested in exploring the world of fine wine, this is the perfect venue, amply justifying its designation as a ‘wine restaurant’.

The sommeliers will happily offer advice on the wines available and recommend the labels which will best complement your meal.

(6 Zaimi St., P. Faliro, tel. +30 210 9842344) Piraeus Papaioannou Possibly the best fish taverna in Athens, a veritable education in the proper preparation of fish and the importance of seeking out the very best raw ingredients.

(5 Philippou St., Mikrolimano, Piraeus, tel. +30 210 4225059)

Summer tastes in Greece

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Summer tastes in Greece

47

Tasted by: Deni Kallivoka, Evi Kallini, Eva Karkiti, Maria Netsika

From fresh fish and home-cooking to sushi and gourmet dishes, we have conducted a review of what’s hot this summer. We present you a hot list of the-gastronomic-mustswhile-travelling.

Halkidiki Marina Below the bridge and next to the boat-yard in the little harbour of Potidea you will find the simple luxury of Marina, and, with its nautical décor you’ll be forgiven for thinking that you are aboard a yacht.

(Potidea, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23730 41570) Sani Resort Apart from its fabulous natural backdrop and cosmopolitan aura, this complex in Cassandra is also renowned for its gastronomic offerings.

Choices from the very Greek-gourmet Ntomata run by chef Chrysanthos Karamolengos and the cosmopolitan Asian Sea you up to the ouzeri Psarogiannos (Sani, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23740 99400) Trizoni A beautiful yard and high-quality cuisine at this stylish fish restaurant.

Creativity and tradition blended in a range of starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses.

(Kriopigi, Cassandra, Halikidiki, tel. +30 23740 51945) Porto Valitsa Spectacular view of the endless blue sea, Mediterranean cuisine and a personal approach at the restaurant of the resort.

(Paliouri, Cassandra, Halikidiki, tel. +30 23740 92007) Squirrel The gastronomic restaurant at the luxurious Danai Beach Resort. Set in an idyllic environment with only 6 tables with the stars up above and the waves at your feet, you’ll relish the imaginative creations of chef Erve Pronzato. (Metamorfosi, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23750 22310).

Eagles Palace The ultra classy hotel in Ouranopolis has consistently invested in gastronomy and wine. This you can confirm by dining at the gastronomic restaurant Kamares, in the fish taverna Almyra, which serves you right where the waves splash and in the verdant Vinum garden.

(Ouranopolis, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23770 31101-4) Kritikos A fish restaurant serving exquisite seafood creations. Let your taste buds discover samphire, grooved sea-squirt and ham mussel stew, fish soups, paella, pasta with lobster and of course whatever fish tickles your fancy. (Ouranopolis, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23770 71222) Marigoula Tiny dinning room, beautiful yard and dishes based on Greek gastronomic traditions enhanced by the resourceful talents of energetic owner. Wide variety of excellent Greek wines.

(Poligiros, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23710 23171) Agioneri Hidden in the lush vegetation this family-run country restaurant serves Greek cuisine with a special emphasis on local recipes as well on dishes from the Mt Athos. (Poligiros, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23710 24500) Samothraki Sotiros Goat is served in greaseproof paper at this taverna which is to be found in the gully next to the small church. The tables are laid under the plane and fig trees. You can watch the cook in the yard peel the potatoes and fry them in large pans over the wood fire. (tel. +30 25510 41500)

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Lesvos Vafios This is a taverna and a gastronomic staging post. Surrounded by vegetation, the cobbled yard with its wooden pergolas is the perfect place to savour local recipes and enjoy the view of the castle of Molyvos.

Our tips: marvellous cheese pies, exohiko, lamb with chickpeas and kiskiek. (Vafios, Lesvos, tel. +30 2253071752) Anemoessa The tranquil little harbour of Skala Sikamnia, with its fishing boats and the small church of the Panagia Gorgona nestled above the rock, is reminiscent of a bygone age. Your joy will be complemented by the food in the Anemoessa fish taverna.

(Skala Sikamnia, Lesvos, tel. +30 22530 55360) Patmos Vegghera Patmian chef, Georgios Gryllis has brought with him a wealth of experience from Athens to create on Patmos a gastronomic restaurant with refined art de la table and Mediterranean cuisine.

(Skala, Nea Marina, Patmos, tel. +30 22470 32988) Andros Joseph’s At ‘Joseph’s’ traditional kafenion in the village of Pitrofos, new life is breathed into the traditional Andriotic cuisine thanks to its recipes and local products.

(Pitrofos, 6 kil. before Andros (Hora), tel. +30 22820 5105, +30 6944 392672) Milos Medousa The fried potatoes and the horiatiki salad with sour myzithra cheese is just one reason to come. Reserve a table to gaze upon the full moon as it rises from the white rocks at Mandrakia.

(Mandrakia, Milos, tel. +30 22870 23670)

Hivadolimni If you find yourself on the beach at Hivadolimni, on Milos, look in one of the alleys for the ouzeri of the same name. Here you’ll find superlative seafood as well as a salubrious version of the Cretan dakos: small pieces of roasted bread served with feta, tomato, aubergine and garlic!

Paros Barbarossa At this exquisite island location in the small harbour of Naoussa you will find the most famous of all fish tavernas, run by Eftyhis. With its genuinely local fish, this is one very good reason to spend a night on Paros. Not to be missed. (Naoussa, Paros, tel. +30 22840 51391) Ios Polydoros Polydoros is a seafront taverna on the beach at Koumbara offering fare at reasonable prices. With its friendly environment, relaxed mood and superb home cooking -unbelievable pastichio- (beware, they often run out in the evening) as well as fresh fish. Mr Polydoros himself has the appearance of a dreamy poet. (Koumbara seafront, Ios, tel. +30 22860 91132) Mykonos Matsuhisa at Belvedere Far superior to Nobu of London (its sister restaurant), this one on Mykonos has attained a very high standard. Take a sip of the apple martini and try the Black Cod with sweet miso, Robert de Niro’s favourite dish. (Mykonos Hora, tel. +30 22890 25122) Sale e Pepe One of the best restaurants in Mykonos. Greek and foreing gourmet flock to its veranda for the best spaghetti on the island. The owner and sommelier Ivan Otaviani is responsible for the choice wine list.

(Lakka sq., tel. +30 22890 24207)

Summer tastes in Greece

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Santorini Selini This celebrated restaurant moved last year to a new location at Pyrgos.

Your host is Georgios Hatziyannakis, one of the founding members of Slow Food in Greece, the creative force together with the chef, Konstantina Faklari. All time classics include the small pitas with anthotyro and dill, spinach with pine nuts and raisins, cherry tomatoes with capers and green cheese. (Pyrgos, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 22249) Koukoumavlos Nikos Pouliasis is the only person on Santorini who has dared to make crab soup with a sauce of white chocolate, lime and ginger, producing something very interesting as a result. The service is second to none as are the premises: the classic cave in the caldera with its beautiful décor and Mr Pouliasis’s discerning choice of opera music which you are sure to like. (Fira, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 23807) 1800 Absolutely romantic atmosphere with progressive, refined Mediterranean specialties. (Oia, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 71485) Ammoudi The quintessential fish taverna, literally sitting above the waves. Choose a little scorpionfish and take a drink at Dimitris’s, while he’ll cook it for you over charcoal in aluminium foil with garlic and salt and pepper.

Sunset is the best time to enjoy this when you can watch the sun is sinking behind Therasia.

(Ammoudi, Oia, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 71606)

Corfu Etrusco Hector Botrini, improving year by year, expresses in an original way the contemporary gastronomic revolution through his techna e contrasti, a menu with dishes which combine modernistic techniques and fabulous taste. (Kato Korakiana, Corfu, tel. +30 26610 93342) Rhodes Mavrikos Situated at stunning Lindos in a courtyard, Mavrikos boasts one of the best cuisines in Greece, and which is based on fish. Included in the hors d’oevres are the caper leaves ragout and the fava with a sweet sauce of homemade sun-dried tomatoes. (Lindos, Rhodes, tel. +30 22440 31232) Crete Avli Situated in a 16th century Venetian mansion in Rethymnon, with its marvellous stone courtyard replete with plants and Cretan herbs, sculptures and antiques, this restaurant offers up traditional recipes with a touch of modernism. The wine list will amaze with 400 different Greek wines.

(Xanthoudidou 22 & Rodamanthios, Rethymnon, Crete, tel. +30 28310 26213) Mylos tou Kerata Built adjacent to a watermill, it resembles more a garden in bloom with its impressive flower displays and rose petals scattered on the tables.

The menu and the wine cellar also impress.

(Platanias, Hania, Crete, tel. +30 28210 68578)

T R AV E L

50

Summer in Greece

Summer in Greece Small secrets Summer memories reminisced by: Kostis Zafirakis, Evi Karkiti and Maria Netsika

Molyvos. What a love affair! The Aegean was staring at us right in the eyes, the moon plunging in the rippleless sea from the top of the castle and the breeze setting off for the Turkish coast across the straights.

Ganema in Serifos, Ai-Sostis in Mykonos, Kriaritsi in Halkidiki, Falasarna and Mpalos beach in Crete, Elafonisos in the Peloponnesean Neapolis, Vatses in Astypalea, Mavra Volia in Chios.

The 45 picturesque -and mostly mountainous- villages of the island of Tinos. In Pyrgos, visit the house of sculptor Halepas and the marble workshops. Try not to miss the unique lunar landscape in Volakas with its huge peculiar rocks - one of the rarest natural wonders in the world!

Be it in remote little churches hanging from breath-taking cliffs in the Aegean, or in tiny shrines on top of wave-beaten rocks, with traditional musical instruments or a cappella, with some barbecued meat and wine or a Turkish delight and some raki, summer celebrations create images of a country shining under the bright sun and standing proud against the strong wind.

I’ve always preferred the seaside for my summer holidays. I don’t think I’ve quite changed my mind; but these days I find the big crowds mindnumbing. That is how I came to discover the magic of the mountains.

Now, I wouldn’t change for the world the view from Apostolidis’ refuge up in Mount Olympus, as the sun is setting in the horizon. The view is so beautiful, it tears to your eyes.

A different proposition, that will thrill those enchanted by the secrets of the deep waters, is the Cretaquarium-Thalassocosmos in Herakleion, Crete. One of the biggest aquariums in the Mediterranean, it was recently renovated and enriched with new rooms and species which you can observe from 100 spots. (www.cretaquarium.gr) Are you ready for the “blue treasure” hunt? Take a swim in one of the country’s mistifying beaches: Egkremni in Lefkada, Myrtos in Cephalonia,

Cinema-going under the stars... On roof-tops, in backyards and little squares heavily scented with honeysuckle and jasmine. Summer cinemas are bustling with happy cinefile audiences watching Cary Grant going up the Empire State Building. Summer nights clad in black satin will never be the same.

A mid-night summer walk in the empty city at the beginning of August.

The islands are bustling with visitors while the quest for a spot on the beach proves futile. It’s time for the city’s revenge: lightened of its excess weight, quiet and graceful, lonely yet tranquile, the city unveils its true colours.

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