4 minute read

White wines

Peter Lehmann Masters Wigan Estate Eden Valley Riesling

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Eden Valley, Australia 2016

Two of the great names in the modern history of Australian wine are referenced in this wine. The late Peter Lehmann, founder and original driving force of the eponymous estate; and long-term Lehmann winemaker, Peter Wigan, who retired from the company in 2014.

The wine itself is made from the best Riesling plots in the Lehmann portfolio each vintage, in this case from Willam Hurn’s Old House Vineyard, which was planted in 2002.

“How lovely to taste an Australian Riesling with a little bit of age,” the judges said. “Cream, paraffin, gentle lime cordial and apple skin notes. This is an assured wine.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £24.99 ABV 11%

Shaw + Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay

Adelaide Hills, Australia, 2021

Another pair of Australian legends; another classic Australian white wine.

This time it’s winemaking cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW who are both referenced and still overseeing production in their 55ha of vines in the Adelaide Hills, which are spread across two sites, one in Balhannah and one in Lenswood.

Fermented and aged for nine months in French oak, this is a “brilliant modern Australian style of Chardonnay”, the judges said.

“It has some smokiness going on that is just right for the wine, as well as a mineral/stone note, plus citrus, brioche and butter.

“Loved it! Layers and layers of interest.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £34.99 ABV 13%

Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling

Eden Valley, Australia 2022

The first of two wines in this year’s Top 100 from one of Australia’s longest-running and most celebrated estates is an “awesome” Riesling.

It’s sourced from the Henschke family’s 32ha Cranes Range Road vineyard, 2km west of Henschke Cellars, which was planted in 1966 at an altitude of 500m above sea level on sandy loam soils over gravel and bedrock with patches of clay.

“An elegant, aromatic, quite zesty Riesling full of floral lemongrass and a hint of lime zest on both nose and palate,” the judges said.

“It’s a beautiful wine, with lots of minerality. Well textured, with a long finish.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £35.99 ABV 12.5%

Lakeview Cellars Vidal Icewine

Niagara Peninsula, Canada 2019

Canadian wine has advanced enormously in recent years, with standout dry wines now being produced throughout the country. But it was a labour-intensive sweet style that first drew international attention to these northerly vineyards, and Lakeview Cellars is one of the best exponents around.

For this bottling, the frozen Vidal grapes were harvested in mid-December at -23°C and -25°C, and the resulting nectar was placed outside in mid-February to stop the fermentation and induce a natural cold stabilisation.

“Intense nose of nectarine, apricot and wild honey, with a whiff of petrol to boot,” the judges said. “It follows through on the palate, and it’s not too cloying. Excellent quality and a good price for icewine.”

Propeller

RRP £18.95 (37.5cl) ABV 11.5%

Domaine de Oliveira Lecestre Chablis Vieilles Vignes Chablis, France 2021

The 2021 vintage was a tough one for the vignerons of Chablis, with a devastating late spring frost only the beginning of the trials sent down by the weather gods.

But if the quantity was vastly reduced, the quality of the grapes that survived was often very high, not least at the 48ha, third-generation family-run Domaine de Oliveira Lecestre, which was able to make what the judges called a “crystalline, classic” Chablis from its old vines planted on kimmeridgian soil.

“Pristine, crystalline Chablis with just a hint of crème fraiche and lots of citrussy tang,” the judges said. “I like the classic style, and it ticks all the boxes of seafood-friendly Chablis that customers look for. “

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £29.49 ABV 13.5%

Louis Jadot Ladoix Le Clou d’Orge

Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2019

One of Burgundy’s biggest and most historic names, Louis Jadot is also a by-word for consistency, with value and quality kept at remarkably high level across its wide-ranging, region-wide portfolio.

This Chardonnay is sourced from a vineyard on a gentle, well-exposed slope with shallow, stony soils, and vines of around 20 years old. It’s fermented and aged for 15 months in oak barrels from the firm’s own cooperage, a third of them new.

“Instantly recognisable white Burgundy nose; tropical and linear citrus fruit, lovely buttery mouthfeel and juicy finish. This is a very good, elegant white Burgundy, and it is great value. “

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £35 ABV 13%

Bouchié-Chatellier

Pouilly-Fumé Pierre à Fusil

Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France 2021

A domaine formed through a marriage of the owning families of two adjacent domaines in the early 20th century, Bouchié-Chatellier remains a leading producer in Pouilly-Fumé, producing wines that benefit from the complementary mix of terroirs that the original merger brought about.

This cuvée is produced from selected plots grown on the shelly, flinty, kimmeridgian clay of the Saint-Andelain hill overlooking the Loire river.

“A classic flinty, minerally leafy style of Sauvignon Blanc for this Pouilly Fume; a really enjoyable palate with a zesty, slightly ‘prickly’ mouth feel,” the judges said. “Good, length too.”

Boutinot

RRP £23.99 ABV 13,5%

Plaimont Producteurs Grand Cru Cirque Nord

Saint-Mont, France 2019

With numerous Top 100 and Highly Commended gongs, Gascony’s Plaimont was one of the stars of this year’s competition, a result that will not come as a surprise to this highly respected cooperative’s many satisfied indies customers.

The Cirque Nord is one of Plaimont’s grands vins, a blend of Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng from an amphitheatre-shaped hilltop plot.

“Light toast on the nose with hazelnut and baked apple aromas. Lovely richness on the palate with those same flavours coming through with quince and cream but freshness to balance. Detailed and with good depth. Mineral crunch and long creamy finish. Tastes like good white Burgundy. ”

Corney & Barrow

RRP £39.50 ABV 14%