The Wine Merchant Top 100 Winners Supplement 2022

The Wine Merchant Top 100 Winners supplement

The Wine Merchant Top 100

2022 edition

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Winners Supplement 2022 Edition

Published with the July 2022 edition of The Wine Merchant magazine www.winemerchantmag.com © Graham Holter Ltd 2022 Registered in England: No 6441762 VAT: 943 8771 82

Chairman’s report

More entries, more judges … more quality DAVID WILLIAMS

This year’s competition was our biggest yet. We had the highest number of entries, the highest number of judges and, thanks to a record number of Highly Commended prizes, the highest number of wines coming away with an award.

But we hope you’ll agree that – in a reverse of what’s usually true of wine retail – this biggest of years was also one of the best.

We are enormously proud of the quality of the list of winners featured over the next 60-plus pages, which includes some of the greatest, most historic names in some of the world’s classic wine regions, alongside the usual Wine Merchant Top 100 selection of exciting rising stars and delicious esoterica.

This is a list where Grande Marque Champagne and Grand Cru Burgundy rubs shoulders with Greek Malagousia and Croatian Malvazija, and where Barossa Shiraz and Barolo mingle with Cap Classique, PX Montilla and Madeira.

It’s a vivid snapshot, in other words, of the independent wine retailing scene, and, as ever, we hope this supplement doubles up as a buyer’s guide to what’s currently available specifically for independents from the UK’s best suppliers. We like to think a shop exclusively stocking the 465 Top 100 and Highly Commended winners would be a pretty fun place to buy wines, with something on offer for every conceivable consumer.

For that, of course, we have our judges to thank. This was the third year in which we’ve conducted the judging remotely, with our partners Sensible Wine Services collating and distributing the wines to the judges’ homes or shops, all bagged up and numbered for a blind tasting.

It’s a way of judging that has clear advantages. It gives the judges the space and time to engage with their selection of wines at their own pace (over a period of two weeks) and takes away the risk of palate fatigue, giving each of the wines a chance to really prove itself. Most of our judges tasted alongside their teams, allowing a broader spread of opinion (even if a single named judge ultimately took responsibility for the final note and score). Some even tried the wines for a second time with food.

Put together, this has created what we feel is a remarkably rich and considered set of tasting notes and scores. That makes the achievement of winning a Trophy, a place in the Top 100 or a Highly Commended award all the more impressive. These are wines that our judges really loved.

We think you’ll love them too.

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

LOCATIONS OF JUDGES, 2020

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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SPARKLING WINE TROPHY

Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE NV The Wine Merchant Top 100 Sparkling Wine Trophy has been graced with some very big names over the years, and the 2022 award was no exception, with the famously elegant family-owned house of Billecart-Salmon sashaying past the judges to earn the top fizz crown.

As the name suggests, this “top-notch” Champagne is marked by its unusual vinification: an equal-parts blend of the traditional Champagne trio of varieties, with the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay all coming from premier and grand cru sites, it is fermented entirely in oak, before being aged for six to seven years on lees.

It’s a recipe that produces what the judges called a “gastronomic” Champagne.

“It has a mellow and elegant nose with citrus peel, orange blossom and toasty bread,” the judges added.

“Deep gold colour. Fine light bubbles, creamy mousse. It’s very well balanced and textured. Lovely mouth feel. Citrus and peach on the palate, with a lovely long finish.

“Very well made. Worth every penny, and would be a great addition to the shelves.”

Billecart-Salmon RRP £70

ABV 12%

WHITE WINE TROPHY

Famille Hugel Pinot Gris Grossi Laüe ALSACE, FRANCE 2013 Another Wine Merchant Top 100 trophy, and another historic, much-admired, family-owned French wine producer takes home the prize.

Founded in 1639, the Famille Hugel has been making wine in its Riquewhir home for nearly 400 years, with an impeccable collection of top vineyard sites at its disposal, including many ranked as Grossi Laüe, the Alsace equivalent of German Grosses Gewächs or Burgundian Grand Cru. And it’s three of the finest plots in one such site – Hugel’s chalky Pflostig estate – that are used as the source of this “exquisite” Pinot Gris.

“Ripe concentrated nose, restrained yet very appealing,” the judges said.

“Delicious ripe fruit and spicy apple; very concentrated and textured. A very long finish and really well balanced.

“Great minerality and stone fruit on the nose.

Sensational apricot mid-palate; a creamy texture, and white pepper on the finish.”

Fells RRP £54.99

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

ABV 13.5%

RED WINE TROPHY

Cà dei Maghi Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva Canova VALPOLICELLA, ITALY 2015 Established in the 1950s, Cà dei Maghi has risen to the front rank of Valpolicella producers since current head honcho Paolo Creazzi, nephew of the founder, took over in 2011, picking up numerous critical plaudits, including regular placings for its wines in The Wine Merchant Top 100.

This year, Creazzi has gone up to the next level, beating off competition from some of the world’s very best and most respected producers to take the Wine Merchant Top 100 Red Wine Trophy.

A classic Amarone blend of raisined Corvina, Corvinone, Molinara and Rondinella from the family’s estate, it offers “floral, marzipan, red fruit aromas and rich black fruit on the palate. Full and concentrated, balanced and complex, with a velvety mouthfeel,” the judges said.

“Rich, dried fruit, bright yet deep, earthy, chocolately, with well integrated oak. This is delicious. We want to drink the whole bottle and stock it!”

Vindependents RRP £56 ABV 16%

ROSÉ TROPHY

Château Aspras Côtes de Provence Tomares Ballus Rosé PROVENCE, FRANCE 2020 Sustainability is arguably the biggest buzzword in wine at the moment, but few producers have such a longstanding commitment to the idea as the Latz family at Château Aspras.

Having pioneered the use of organic viticulture in their home village of Correns under the stewardship of Michael Latz from the 1970s onwards, current owner Sébastien Latz now has three vineyard plots to play with, all of them organic since 1995.

He also has an “ultra-modern” cellar, opened in 2022, in which to work his gentle magic on his quintessentially elegant Provence rosés.

“Straight from the appearance, we want to dive in head first: a lovely tinge of pink/salmon and burnt orange,” the judges said.

“It has the best nose, of inviting, wild fresh herbs, freshly picked strawberries and orange blossom. The palate is very well balanced, viscous yet crisp, light, but full of a pleasing viscosity and a Gala apple drying texture. Great complexity.”

Bancroft Wines RRP £18.49

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

ABV 13.5%

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FORTIFIED WINE TROPHY

Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Gran Reserva MONTILLA-MORILES SPAIN 1999 Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, Bodegas Toro Albala is a master of the fine art of Andalusian fortified wine, with a special talent for the sweetly inviting genre of PX, of which the Don PX Gran Reserva is the very pinnacle.

Made only in special years, the grapes are picked in mid-August, and then left to dry in the sun for seven to nine days, concentrating the sugars and helping to develop the darkly appealing, complex dried-fruit flavours that are the style’s hallmark.

Aged for more than two decades in American oak barrels in the company’s atmospheric 14,000m2 cellar in Moriles, the resulting wine is, the judges said, “superlative”, with a plethora of different flavours.

“Dark, decadent, spicy orange marmalade, chocolate and caramel, coffee … malt molasses … what is not to like?” they said.

“It was the last wine we tasted and the sugar hit may be inflating its score, but it is so delightful.”

Winetraders RRP £35 ABV 17%

BEST VALUE RED WINE TROPHY

La Cote Sauvage Cairanne Cru CAIRANNE, RHONE, FRANCE 2018 Wine producing and wine importing are two complementary but very different skills: it’s unusual to find a company that excels at both.

Having started out as a one-man-band importer more than 40 years ago, Boutinot has long since become one of those rare ambidextrous companies, with serious winemaking operations in England, Italy, South Africa and – in the case of this hugely popular red – France.

Sourced from the Boutinot hillside vineyard in Cairanne in the southern Rhône, it’s a blend of old bush-vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, aged for 22 months in mostly used French oak barrels.

“Dark colour and a lovely lifted fruit nose of dark and red fruits,” the judges said.

“Sweet fruit on the palate with hints of oak rounding out the wine.

“Good structure, and a very long spicy finish. It’s very well put together and it has great drinkability – it will sell well.”

Boutinot RRP £15.49

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

ABV 14.5%

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BEST VALUE SPARKLING WINE TROPHY

Laborie Blanc de Blancs SOUTH AFRICA 2015 The sparkling wine category has never been more competitive. Genuinely fine new fizz is emerging from all corners of the global vineyard and producers in the established big-name sparkling wine regions have raised their game accordingly.

Even within this much expanded field of play, however, the best South African bottle-fermented sparkling wines – aka MCC or Method Cap Classique – stand out for their sometimes-astonishing value.

This 100% Chardonnay cuvée from Laborie, sourced from vineyards across the Western Cape, is a delicious case in point, with each of the judges noting its remarkably high pound-for-pound quality and its effortless style.

Aged for three years on its lees, it comfortably outscored numerous wines with significantly higher price-tags.

“Ripe stone fruit – white peach. Beautiful palate, elegant yet rich, with baked brioche,” the judges said.

“Outstanding value for money. The best fizz in this flight, and one that successfully represents the Method Cap Classique style.”

North South Wines RRP £15.99 ABV 12%

BEST VALUE WHITE WINE TROPHY

Iona Elgin Highlands Sauvignon Blanc ELGIN, SOUTH AFRICA 2021 Andrew Gunn has become synonymous with coolclimate winemaking in South Africa since finding and planting his vineyards at 420m above sea level among the orchards of Elgin around the turn of the millennium.

Grown on soils that combine gravel bed, sandstone and silica with underlying clay, the vines – planted between 1997 and 2012, and organically and biodynamically farmed – benefit from an unusually long growing season, which brings complexity to the grapes without shedding freshness-bringing acidity.

For this cuvée, Gunn adds further layers by including a little Semillon (aged in large oak barrels) and a touch of barrel-fermented Sauvignon.

“Quite a pale, almost water-white colour and a lifted, herbaceous nose with a hint of green pea pod,” the judges said.

“Asparagus and nettle character. A vibrant finish, of citrus and herbacous flavours. Classy!”

Alliance Wine RRP £14.99

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

ABV 13.5%

BEST VALUE FORTIFIED WINE TROPHY

Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Malvasia MADEIRA, PORTUGAL NV One of the great, historic names of Madeira, Henriques & Henriques has accumulated more than 170 years of winemaking experience since its foundation in 1850.

While aware of the traditions, current master blender Humberto Jadím is certainly not stuck in the past, however, with his wines showing a clarity of expression and verve that is very much of the moment.

The 10 Year Old Malvasia is made using the traditional Canteiro system, where the barrels are heated naturally under the eaves of H&H’s lodges.

“It’s a marzipan bomb,” the judges said.

“Lots of nuttiness, hints of coffee, toasted walnut, dates, a slight savoury spice. A flint element?

Lusciously sweet, good acidity, and a great, long finish.

“Superb quality: makes you wonder why more people don’t drink – and stock – Madeira.”

Mentzendorff RRP £22

ABV 18.5%

BEST VALUE ROSÉ WINE TROPHY

Jean-Claude Mas Mon Rosé IGP PAYS D’OC, FRANCE 2021 If the impetus for the global 21st-century rosé boom at first largely came from Provence, it hasn’t taken long for producers further west in southern France to catch up – and today’s best Languedoc and Roussillon pastel pinks are very much a match for their eastern neighbours.

Prices, too, are very competitive, all the more so when serial Top 100 winner Jean-Claude Mas is involved – as he is with this beautifully presented blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault.

Sourced from vines grown on a mix of clay and limestone soils across the Languedoc, each variety is vinified seperately at 17°C and the wine spends 40 days on its lees, with regular bâtonage to add creamy depth and palate texture.

“Excellent structure here,” the judges said.

“It has a pale onion-skin colour, and then pink grapefruit and white flowers on the nose.

“The palate is dry, mineral, with high acidity and a candied strawberry note.

“There is some raspberry and melon, too. Dry in style, it’s a nice little wine. We’d stock this.”

Domaines Paul Mas RRP £12. 99

ABV 13.7%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Meet the judges

All of our judges are independent wine merchants. Each was sent a number of flights of bagged-up wines to assess in a blind tasting. They had just under two weeks to complete the task, either on their own or, more usually, with the help of team members. In one instance, customers even were invited to give a second opinion. As always, we’re incredibly grateful for the time and effort that went into this year’s judging.

LYNSEY AND CHRIS BAIN, HARRIS & CO

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

Amps Wine Merchants, Oundle

The Grape to Glass, Rhos-on-Sea, Colwyn Bay

Established over a century ago, this award-winning wine business now has the fourth generation at the helm in the form of Philip Amps.

Tim Watson’s business is designed to make his customers feel comfortable and encourage them to try something new.

Artisan Wine & Spirit Co, Salisbury

Harris & Co, Castle Douglas, Scotland

Friends Liz Coombes and Simon Hill, who between them have decades of experience in the wine trade, launched their shop two years ago.

Chris and Lynsey Bain worked for years in the wine and deli trade before launching their own shop in Dumfries and Galloway.

Blas ar Fwyd, Llanrwst, north Wales

Hay Wines, Ledbury, Herefordshire, Scotland

A family-run company that also has a thriving wholesale arm as well as its deli, wine shop and café bar, from where it also offers bespoke catering.

Hay Wines is a family-owned merchant and importer owned and run by Jane and Chris Salt and their team of wine professionals.

CA Rookes, Stratford-upon-Avon

Hennings, Pulborough, West Sussex

This wine business has been a fixture in the Warwickshire town since 1939, with Dan Abbots buying it from John Freeland in 2021.

A long-established retailer with two shops and a warehouse, from where Matthew Hennings oversees the busy wholesale side of the business.

Cheers, Swansea

The Hop Shop, Hornchurch, Essex

Father and son Andrew and Dafydd Morris also have a shop in Mumbles. This year they have added a wine bar element to the business.

Drinks professionals Phil Cooke and Alison Taffs also own a micro pub, The Hop Inn, next door to their shop specialising in wine, craft beer and perry.

Fauvette, Penarth, south Wales Philippa Freidman and Jean-Marc Delys specialise in organic, biodynamic and natural wines, and offer a popular wine refill service.

Friarwood, London Established in 1967, Friarwood has shops in Parsons Green and Wimbledon Village. Its in-house sommelier, Salvatore Castano, was our judge this year.

Gardner & Beedle, Tisbury, Wiltshire With two lifetimes of wine knowledge and hospitality between them, Tim Gardner and Nick Beedle set up shop together last year.

SALVATORE CASTANO, FRIARWOOD

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Meet the judges Kwas, Huddersfield

Peckham Cellars, London

Duncan Sime and Ola Dabrowska launched Kwas four years ago and have already expanded into larger premises.

Ben McVeigh, a Plumpton graduate, has a decade of experience in the trade. Ben and his team, who describe themselves as “wine fanatics”, list over 150 wines.

Lea & Sandeman, London

Ripponden Wine Company, North Yorkshire

This quintessential London merchant has shops in Chelsea, Barnes, Kensington, Chiswick and Fulham. David Porter led the judging team.

Ray Nicholls launched his wine shop in the heart of Ripponden in 2021, from where he runs regular tasting events for his customers.

Loki, Birmingham

Salut, Manchester

In 10 years, Phil Innes has successfully replicated the concept of his original store in Great Western Arcade, to include two further shops in Edgbaston and Solihull.

An early adopter of Enomatics in their business model, Salut’s ever changing wine list continues to delight its customers. Bob McDonald coordinated the judging.

Luvians, St Andrews, Fife Founded in 1981 by three Italian brothers, Luvians is a thriving business with two shops in St Andrews and Cupar. Archie McDiarmid led the tastings.

Must & Lees, London Launched last year by Chris Cassell, this wine merchant, tasting room and wine school is already a popular destination in Islington.

Old Chapel Cellars, Truro Louisa Fitzpatrick and Jamie Tonkin, who own this dynamic retailer and wholesaler, were excited to announce their B Corp status earlier this year.

Oxford Wine Company, Witney Ted Sandbach and his talented team work across a business that incorporates five shops and a large wholesale operation.

CHRIS CASSELL, MUST & LEES

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

THE TAURUS TEAM JUDGING

Seven Cellars, Brighton Firmly embedded into the Seven Dials shopping and residential area of the city, owner Louise Oliver recently opened a second store at Brighton railway station.

Shenfield Wine Company, Essex Nish Patel and his enthusiastic team worked diligently through their flights and entertained us all with their social media updates on their progress.

Stonewines, Barnet Riaz Syed’s store is arguably the coolest retail venue in Whetstone. Visitors will sometimes find art on display that’s almost as eclectic as the wine.

Pic: Rachael Ellenger

Taurus Wines, Surrey Hills Rupert and Felicity Pritchett and their team run a go-to wine venue for the discerning wine lovers of Sussex and Surrey.

Tring Winery, Hertfordshire Aside from their bar and shop, sommelier Jamie Smith and winemaker Alex Taylor have created an imaginative and slick online tasting club.

Vineyard, Ramsbottom, Lancashire Stuart Rothwell’s shop is a well-established part of the local community and the regular tastings and wine dinners are always a hit with customers.

Vineyards, Sherborne, Dorset Hannah and Sadie Wilkins love to hold tastings and their recent move to a bigger premises means they now have a dedicated tasting room and events space.

NISH PATEL AND TEAM, SHENFIELD WINE CO

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Meet the judges Vino, Edinburgh

Whitebridge Wines, Stone, Staffordshire

Established in 2010 by Andrew Lundy, Vino has three shops in Edinburgh: Broughton Street, Stockbridge and Grange Loan.

Based in a large warehouse, Francis and Patricia Peel and their team have been serving trade and retail customers for the past four decades.

The Wine Loft, Brixham, Devon

Whitmore & White, Chester

James Brown has been running the Wine Loft for three years and along with his team, he runs regular tasting events.

Established in 2014, the business, owned by Joe Whittick, now has shops in Heswall, Frodsham, West Kirby and Wirral.

J Wadsworth, St Ives, Cambridgeshire

Yapp Bros, Mere, Wiltshire

Offering a huge range of wine, beers and spirits, this family-run company started trading in 1869. Phil Matthews organised the judging.

Widely regarded as the UK’s leading importer of French regional wines, Yapp Brothers has been trading for over 50 years. Boss Jason Yapp led the judging.

JAMES BROWN, THE WINE LOFT 20

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

PHIL MATTHEWS, J WADSWORTH

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Sparkling wines Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France NV The second wine in this year’s Top 100 for the stylish family-owned Champagne house plays to one of the company’s defining strengths: access to some of the region’s very finest fruit.

In this case it’s Chardonnay from four grands crus in the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger) that provides the ingredients for a wine that is fermented in stainless steel, given a partial malolactic fermentation and aged for four to five years on its lees.

Between 33% and 40% of the final blend is made up of reserve wines, with a dosage of 8g/l.

“Delicate and refined bouquet with a hint of butterscotch cream,” said the judges. “Extremely elegant with barley sugar on the mid-palate and Seville orange to finish. Utterly delightful!”

Billecart-Salmon RRP £65

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blancs de Blancs Brut Champagne, France 2011 A former winner of the Sparkling Wine Trophy, Taittinger’s top cuvée was once again among the leading sparkling wines in a field that was more competitive than ever.

A 100% Chardonnay, it is sourced exclusively from grand cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs.

It includes a 5% portion that is aged in a mix of new and used French oak barrels, before being cellared in Taittinger’s 18m-deep chalk cellars for the better part of a decade.

“A seriously elegant and bright nose,” the judges said. “Lovely mouthfeel from the mousse on the palate and brioche hints of almost candied fruit. An amazing finish, with perfect balance and not in-your-face. This is something clearly very good, and very, very drinkable.”

Hatch Mansfield

ABV 12.5%

RRP £134.90

ABV 12.5%

Champagne Delavenne Père & Fils Millésime Grand Cru

Champagne Delavenne Père & Fils Rose Marne Brut Rosé Grand Cru

Champagne, France 2015

Champagne, France NV

Described by Champagne Delavenne as the house’s flagship cuvée, the Millésime Grand Cru is a celebration of the best plots in the superb terroir of Delavenne’s vineyards in the grand cru village of Bouzy.

A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, it is fermented with native yeast in stainless steel tanks, with no malolactic fermentation. It is bottled without fining or cold flash stabilisation.

“Great bouquet. Complete wine,” the judges said. “Honey and nutty, with notes of peach, apple and cherry pie. Good developed character and impact. Excellent balance, lovely lemoncheesecake quality with a white pepper finish.”

The second wine in this year’s Top 100 from the family-run Bouzy-based grower is another fine expression of Champenois terroir.

The product of two vintages, it’s a blend of 100% Bouzy Grand Cru fruit, with 43% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 17% Bouzy Rouge red wine (from the AOP Coteaux Champenois).

As with all the Delavenne wines, natural yeasts are used and malolactic and fining are eschewed.

“Salmon pink colour and good mousse,” the judges said.

“Ripe raspberry and strawberry notes. Dry but with a touch more dosage giving a sweeter edge to it. Absolutely lovely!”

Vindependents

Vindependents

RRP £59.99

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ABV 12.5%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £42

ABV 12.5%

Champagne Collet Brut 1er Cru Art Déco

Champagne Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Grand Cru

Champagne, France NV

Champagne, France NV

The oldest co-operative in Champagne, Collet was founded in 1921, right in the middle of the Art Deco period, hence the name of what the judges described as a “fabulous” cuvée.

A blend of the classical Champagne trio of grape varieties, the fruit is drawn from seven grand cru and 13 premier cru vineyards, and is aged for a minium of four years in Collet’s historic, centuries-old limestone cellars.

It earned its spot on the Top 100 list with its rich and attractively developed character.

“Incredibly leesy with rich, strong breadiness – cheese straws and brioche. It would be good with food,” the judges said.

“Nicely nutty with good zip and drive, it’s lovely and savoury with a long spicy finish.”

A richly deserved second entry in this year’s Wine Merchant Top 100 for a classic Champagne house that has remained in independent family hands since it was first established in 1859.

The judges were won over by this cuvée’s “creamy autolytic nose” and “slightly nutty character”. They praised the wine’s “good impact and nice evolution, all the while retaining some really good brightness in the middle, and then a creamy finish with some savoury tones. Really smart and interesting.”

The wine is a 100% grand cru blend of Chardonnay from Avize, Chouilly and Le Mesnil sur Oger, and Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, that has been aged for a startling 17 years to acquire those deep savoury tones.

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £38.99

RRP £83

ABV 12.5%

ABV 12.5%

Champagne Duval-Leroy Rosé 1er Cru Prestige

Dopff au Moulin Cuvée Julien Brut

Champagne, France NV

Alsace, France NV

Champagne Duval-Leroy has been an important player in the modern transition of Champagne to a more environmentally friendly mode of production, and was one of the first houses to get the HVE3 certification.

The interest in sustainability goes hand in hand with the company’s large vineyard holdings: some 200ha in total, 40% of which is premier or grand cru. That also provides the base for a portfolio of wines of great finesse, such as this 80/20 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay rosé, which is aged for five to six years in bottle.

“Crisp strawberry and raspberry red fruit,” the judges said. “Well balanced with nice freshness.

A really good quality rosé Champagne.”

A sparkling wine specialist, Dopff Au Moulin was instrumental in setting up the original Crémant d’Alsace AOC in the 1970s, and has continued to prove just how good bottle-fermented fizz made from Alsace varieties can be.

This 50/50 blend of Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc is sourced from fruit grown in Dopff au Moulin’s vineyard 300m up in the Vosges mountains, and is aged for 18 months on the lees.

“The nose is very intense, with notes of lemon, lime, golden apple and pear, lees and bread crumbs; it’s smoky and nutty,” the judges said.

“The palate is complex and balanced, with a long finish and great freshness. Like a great quality Champagne. A must-have on the list.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £59

RRP £20.25

ABV 12%

ABV 12%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Sparkling & white wines Marchese Antinori Tenuta Montenisa Franciacorta Cuvée Royale

Clos Clare Riesling Watervale

Franciacorta, Italy NV

The latest generation of one of Australia’s first families of wine, winemaking brothers Sam and Tom Barry, have followed grandfather Jim and father Peter into the wine business, and are now making waves with their Clos Clare project in the Clare Valley, as well as overseeing the Jim Barry brand.

The Riesling comes from a parcel of vines in prime country for the variety in Watervale, right next to the celebrated Florita vineyard.

“Absolutely delicious,” said the judges.

“Well judged acidity, lots of luscious lemony notes and elegantly balanced. A long finish. Very enjoyable.

“This is a great wine and a great price in terms of our range: we would definitely stock it.”

Best known for its range of top-quality wines from its native Tuscany, the Antinori family has been an influential presence throughout Italy, including Franciacorta in Lombardy.

Sourced since 1999 from vineyards on the Montenisa estate around the hamlet of Calino, near Lake Iseo, this blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero is aged for 36 months before disgorgement.

The judges detected “a gorgeous lime zest note that is reminiscent of blanc de blancs Champagne. A delicate well-integrated bubbles, and a clean crisp palate. You would be hard pushed not to finish the bottle.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Berkmann Wine Cellars RRP £29.50

ABV 12.5%

Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Semillon Hunter Valley, Australia, 2021 Australian winemakers have mastered dozens of different wine styles, but few are more distinctive than Hunter Valley Semillon – and no practitioner of the Hunter style is more masterful than Tyrrell’s.

The latest vintage is drawn as ever from some of Tyrrell’s best sites, with the vines having an average age of 40 years. Picked at night and vinified in stainless steel for maximum fruit expression, the juice also spends a short time on the lees to add texture and depth.

“Attractive restrained nose, ripe fruit flavours and hints of citrus,” the judges said.

“A bright and appealing, refreshing palate, good weight and balance and a pleasing finish – a very pure and enjoyable example of this classic Aussie style.”

Fells RRP £19.99 22 24

Clare Valley, Australia 2018

RRP £22.99

ABV 12%

Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Eden Valley Viognier Eden Valley, Australia 2020 It’s perfectly reasonable to suggest that Viognier would not be anything like the globally recognised grape variety it is today without the help of Yalumba. The family-run South Australian firm has invested vast sums of time, attention and money into planting and understanding the once-obscure Rhône variety, and is fully reaping the rewards today.

“Classic Viognier nose with stone fruit and a dash of spice,” the judges said. “Elegant, yet rich, the texture grabs hold right from the start.

Ripe fruit and a note of cinnamon leads to a persistent finish with a lovely lift of acidity. A wine which manages to convey all of the flavour of Viognier without getting caught up with a blowsy mid palate.”

Fells

ABV 11% THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £17.99

ABV 14%

Undurraga Sauvignon Blanc TH Leyda Valley, Chile 2021 We are now way past the point where Chile’s 21st-century planting rush to the coast can be described as new. But the quality of the fruit emerging from the mature vineyards gets better by the vintage.

Certainly, this Sauvignon, from one of the leaders of the Chilean cool-climate, terroirdriven movement and a pioneer of the Pacificcooled Leyda Valley, impressed the judges with its “beautiful, zingy” character.

“Complex and pretty aromas of melon, with herbal notes,” the judges said.

“The finish is amazing: grass, fennel and lemon peel. It’s a very well balanced wine, with classically Sauvignon characteristics, and therefore commercially viable.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £19.25

ABV 13.5%

Kozlovic Malvazija West Istria, Croatia 2020

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon Savennières, Loire, France 2015 A serious contender for the White Wine Trophy, this single-vineyard Loire Chenin Blanc is made by one of the region’s most talented winemakers – Florian Baumard – working with fruit from one of its most celebrated vineyards, Clos du Papillon in Savennières.

“Wonderfully off-dry with serious elegance and finesse,” the judges said.

“Delicate yet lengthy notes of pear, almond, papaya, a touch of mango and sweet/saline minerality bounce around the mouth. An impressive mix of concentration and complexity that makes it truly outstanding.

“I want a case of this, like ... now! A standing ovation here! “ Alliance Wine RRP £42.99

ABV 13%

Domaine de la Combe Vigne de l’Astrée, Muscadet MonnièresSaint-Fiacre

The beautiful Istrian peninsula in Croatia is bordered by Friuli, so it’s not perhaps surprising that the wines produced there have a kinship with those of their Italian neighbours.

The Kozlovic family, which has been producing wines in the region since 1904, is one of the specialists in a distinctly Istrian dry white style made from the Malvazija grape variety, that would appeal to lovers of north eastern Italian whites.

“Melon, lemon, and lanolin,” the judges said.

“The palate is balanced and elegant. A really good wine with a burst of refreshing flavour.

Would love it with a fish dish! It’s a fair price and we would stock it.”

Muscadet, Loire, France 2018

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Boutinot

RRP £15.49

RRP £18.99

ABV 13.5%

While Muscadet does a brilliant job of providing brisk, easy-drinking, seafood partners at a good price, it’s increasingly home to some serious, ageworthy bottlings that would not be out of place in a line-up of France’s finest dry whites.

This cuvée from Domaine de la Combe, for example, is vinified from low-yielding Melon using native yeast in 600-litre barrels, and spends some 26 months ageing on its lees.

“A perfect balance of tangy tropical notes, fresh jasmine flowers and wet stony minerality,” the judges said. “A delightful finish with smoky complexity and depth. Hugely enjoyable in every sip. A fabulous wine with real character.”

ABV 12.5%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

25

White wines Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Burgundy, France 2019 Founded in 1840, and one of the leading estates in the Mâconnais, Domaine Ferret is based right in the heart of the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation’s famous amphitheatre with a collection of some of its very best vineyards.

For its flagship wine, the Chardonnay is sourced from vines with an average age between 10 and 35 years grown on a mix of limestone and clay. It is aged in concrete and used French oak barrels.

“Flinty minerals and great weight and structure: it’s grapey and ripe. Voluptuous,” the judges said.

“Grapefruit, grass, a buttery palate, lovely oily texture and a long finish. Really lovely wine – a classy Chardonnay with a good balance of fruit, oak and acidity.”

Hatch Mansfield RRP £34

ABV 13%

Domaines Paul Mas Soleil Blanc de Lauriga Côtes du Roussillon, France 2020 A traditional Catalan “mas”, Château Lauriga has some 60ha of vines in a stretch of Roussillon between Perpignan and Thuir, cultivating a full array of typical Roussillon red and white grape varieties, including the pair that make up the blend for this evocative dry white: Grenache Blanc and Macabeu.

Aged for eight months in barrique with regular bâtonage, the wine is “very concentrated, with great definition and balance”, the judges said.

“Very aromatic, it smells creamy, and has a really nice colour. There’s candied apple, poached pear, ripe lychee compote and some toasted notes. A long finish of caramel, vanilla and butterscotch, but not in a heavy way: it’s very well integrated.”

Domaines Paul Mas RRP £17.50

ABV 14.5%

Mineralium Chenin Blanc

Damien Pinon Clos Tenau

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2021

Vouvray, France 2015

Chenin Blanc may not be the first grape variety that springs to mind in discussions of Languedoc-Roussillon. In the skilled winemaking hands of Languedoc specialist Xavier Roger, however, it makes total sense.

For Mineralium, the grapes are picked early in the morning for maximum freshness and then cold-fermented for 15 days at very low temperatures, before ageing on the lees for three months to give a little extra depth.

“Clear and bright; incredibly expressive nose which follows onto the palate,” the judges said.

“This is like pushing a wheelbarrow of ripe Granny Smiths, which have been drizzled with lemon juice, over a freshly mown lawn. Taut and vibrant, with great minerality, this wine just sings. It would find shelf space immediately.”

A “proper artisan wine” according to the Wine Merchant Top 100 judges, Clos Tenau is the work of Damien Pinon, a third-generation vigneron in the commune of Vernou-sur-Brenne, where he manages a 25ha family property with his wife, Ingrid.

A specialist in Chenin, with wines aged in cellars cut into the tuffeau limestone soil, Pinon works his vines, which have an average age of 30 years, using sustainable lutte raisonée methods.

“Lovely pale gold colour and great viscosity,” the judges said.

“A nose of sultanas. Gently honeyed, but with refreshing acidity. A great example of an aged Vouvray, concentrated and elegant. Seriously good length.”

Cachet Wine

Graft Wine Company

RRP £10.49

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ABV 12%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £30

ABV 15%

Famille Hugel Estate Gewürztraminer Alsace, France 2017 A second wine in the Top 100 for one of the great names of Alsace (and French) wine, this “classic” Alsace Gewürztraminer joins the trophywinning Pinot Gris in the final selection.

It’s the product of fruit sourced from a selection of Hugel’s best sites around its estate in Riquewihr, with the grapes fermented in temperature-controlled vats (at 18 to 24°C), before going through a single racking and then ageing in bottle before release.

“Lovely ripe fruit nose, with hints of Turkish delight and gentle spice,” the judges said.

“It’s just off-dry on the palate, lovely weight, with clean, fresh melon and apricot flavours.

Crisp. Good balance. A really classy glass of wine and a long finish.”

Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France 2020 Laurent Lebrun is the current custodian of the Lebrun family’s 160-year-old domaine, which takes in 9ha of vineyards, with an average age of 25 years, on the flinty clay slopes of SaintAndelain in the heart of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation.

The estate Pouilly-Fumé is fermented in tank at 16 to 18°C and is then aged on the lees in a mixture of stainless steel and oak barrels for five months.

“Alluring aromas of gunflint, wet stone, and herbaceous notes,” said the judges.

“The palate is balanced, and offers flavours of baked apple and burnt citrus zest with a crisp and tangy mineral finish … smoky!

“Very well balanced between the fruit and the acidity. Complex and delightful at every sip.”

Vindependents

Fells RRP £24.49

Domaine Lebrun Pouilly-Fumé

ABV 13.5%

RRP £18.50

ABV 13.5%

Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons

Joseph Mellot Sancerre La Chatellenie

Chablis, France 2018

Sancerre, Loire, France 2021

The Fèvre family is synonymous with Chablis, and the estate that bears its name – part of the Henriot group, along with another great Burgundy name, Bouchard Père et Fils – is today the largest landholder in Chablis, with some 78ha, including 15.9ha of premier cru and 15.2ha of grand cru.

This cuvée is sourced from a 2.8ha plot of Chardonnay in the Vaillons premier cru, aged for 12 to 14 months, with half of the blend in barrique.

“Classic Chablis in a very clean, precise style with ‘rain on slate’ on the nose, along with cordite/gunpowder; on the palate, pleasantly grape-pippy. Racy and steely,” the judges said.

Few wine estates come with a longer pedigree than Joseph Mellot, which next year will celebrate its 500th anniversary.

Mellot’s relevance today is less about history, however, and more to do with its ability to make some of the Loire’s most alluring Sauvignon Blanc, with this cuveé – from a single 22ha vineyard in Sancerre, with a terroir of flint-rich siliceous clay – a typically vivid example.

“A full nose with flinty, floral and fruity aromas of passionfruit and orange zest, wrapped up in an elegant balance between freshness and structure,” the judges said.

“A delightful grip to the finish with a moreish quality about it.”

Fells

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £48.49

ABV 12.5%

RRP £22.60

ABV 13%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

27

Appearances can be deceptive

White wines

The importance of blind tasting Blind tasting is the traditional way of assessing wines. The theory is that it makes judging far more impartial.

Nothing on the label will sway the opinion of the taster: all that matters is what the liquid tastes like.

E Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Blanc

The Wine Merchant Top 100 has been a blind-tasting affair ever since its inception a decade ago. These days, wines are not tasted en masse in a single room, but sent out to merchants across the country. They arrive bagged up so that tasting can take place without the judges knowing anything about the wine beyond its broad style (Aussie Chardonnay, Loire red etc) and its recommended retail price.

The white wines of Crozes-Hermitage are nothing like as well known (or as numerous) as the appellation’s reds, but at their best they can be every bit as interesting.

This version from one of the northern Rhône’s most important producers is close to being a single-varietal Marsanne, with just 5% Roussanne included in a blend which is partly aged in oak for 12 months.

According to the judges, it is a “really excellent example of what white Rhône can be, with that lovely half-way house between Alsace fragrance and Burgundy structure. It has honey, stone fruit, and a rounded and soft palate, leading into a long and complex finish. Very good.”

Of course, once the scores and tasting notes have been recorded, the bags come off and merchants can take stock of the wines they have just sampled. Perhaps some of the labels will add an extra layer of commercial appeal to the wines tasters have enjoyed. Or maybe they will come as a huge disappointment.

Does presentation matter? Most indies will argue that it does, though there are differences of opinion in how important the label design is when it comes to decisions about listings. For some indies, it’s inconceivable that they will have anything on their shelves that doesn’t look as good as it tastes.

Others are more relaxed, but may well give feedback to their suppliers that the bottle needs a makeover at the next available opportunity.

As things stand, the label has no real part to play in The Wine Merchant Top 100 competition. We think this is probably the right policy: essentially this is a competition about winemaking excellence rather than marketing. But we’re ready to have the conversation. If any indies have strong views either way, please get in touch.

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France 2019

Fells RRP £24.49

ABV 12.5%

Domaine Hervé Richard Condrieu L’Amaraze Condrieu, Rhône, France 2020 Hervé and Marité Richard’s northern Rhône domaine is based in the village of Chavanay in the Pilat national park, with the couple’s 10ha of vines spread across the famously steep, toughto-work slopes of the St-Joseph and Condrieu appellations.

The Viognier for the couple’s Condrieu, from a south-facing vineyard, is, inevitably, entirely hand-picked, while the vinification is a mix of oak and stainless steel, with a third of the cuvée spending 11 months in barrique.

“The wine has a classic Viognier stone fruit and flower aroma,” the judges said. “It’s mediumbodied with a long and elegant finish of delicate blossom and peach flavours.”

Vindependents RRP £34.99

ABV 13.5%

Cave de Turckheim Riesling Vieilles Vignes

Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia Epanomi, Greece 2021

Alsace, France 2017 Alsace is blessed with a number of well-run co-operatives. But the 180-member Cave de Turckheim is arguably first among equals, leading the way in providing excellent-value expressions of the region’s many strengths from its home in Turckheim at the mouth of the Munster Valley.

The Riesling vines that are used to make this cuvée are more than 35 years old, on average, and are grown on a mix of limestone, granite and gravel soils.

“Classic Riesling nose, with lime zest, apples and pears,” the judges said. On the palate, the flavours are rich and intense, mouthfilling with real punch.

“Lovely and rich but with a balanced finish.”

A serial winner in the Wine Merchant Top 100, from vintage to vintage this superb Greek white never fails to impress our ever-rotating panel of judges.

It’s made by an estate that is credited with saving the Malagousia variety from extinction, and which has perfected the art of making it into richly aromatic, fleshy but fresh and highly seductive wines.

“Lime on the nose and white blossom – very pretty,” the judges said. “The palate is juicy, fresh, vibrant and balanced.

“Gorgeous floral and sweet spice aromas that follow through to the palate. Balanced and rounded. Very good quality.

“This would really go down well with our customers. Outstanding.”

Boutinot

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £13.49

ABV 12.5%

Domaine Jean Perrier et Fils Chignin-Bergeron Chignin-Bergeron, Savoie, France 2020

RRP £20.99

ABV 12.8%

Gaia Wines Thalassitis Assyrtiko Santorini, Greece 2020

With its distinctive wines made from indigenous grape varieties, and its preponderance of small family-owned domaines, the Alpine region of Savoie seems tailormade for independents.

The wines of Jean Perrier, a seventh-generation producer, certainly offer something intriguingly different, the Top 100 judges said.

A 100% Bergeron (aka Roussanne) grown on calcium-rich soils in south-facing plots, it’s fermented with wild yeast and unoaked.

“Lifted attractive nose, with hints of orange and citrus fruits,” the judges said. “Really good weight in the mouth and a lovely tangy finish, with good texture. A very attractive wine.”

Like fellow Greek producer Gerovassiliou, Gaia Wines has come away with a number of awards from the Top 100 over the years.

A benchmark expression of the Assyrtiko variety grown on Santorini’s volcanic soils, the fruit is sourced from three plots of exceptionally old (70 to 80 years old) and low-yielding vines.

The wine is unoaked, but ages on the lees for four months with regular bâtonage.

“The nose is very much like a dramatic coastline – it makes you instantly think of oysters,” the judges said.

“Wow! The palate is incredible. A beautiful mouth feel; clean yet creamy, in some ways.

Elegant, flavoursome … a unique flavour. The exact kind of wine-drinking experience we want to give our customers.”

Alliance Wine

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £21.99

ABV 12.3%

RRP £29.49

ABV 13%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

29

White wines Produttori di Manduria Alice Verdeca

Tormaresca Pietrabianca Chardonnay

Salento, Puglia, Italy 2020

Castel del Monte, Puglia 2019

The high-quality co-operative Prodututtori di Manduria is inevitably best-known for its work with the red wines made from the region’s native Primitivo grape.

But it has also had great success with the local white varieties, among them the littleknown Verdeca used to make this superb-value unoaked bottling.

“It’s a wine with a really attractive floral nose; very appealing,” the judges said. “Ripe apple and white blossom on the palate. Good weight in the mouth, lovely gentle spice and a long finish.

“Bags of flavour and good acidity; lovely peach fruit on the finish. Yummy. Exactly the kind of well-priced and unusual wine that we’re after for our customers.”

With its twin estates in Castel del Monte and Salento, Tomaresco has been at the forefront of the quality revolution that has swept through Puglia in the past two decades, and is behind some of southern Italy’s finest wines.

The Chardonnay – described by Tomaresca as an “outstanding white” in a “land of red wines” – is sourced from the Boca di Lupo estate in Castel del Monte. Fermented in stainless steel, it is aged on its lees in oak, and includes a 10% portion of Fiano.

“A great Chardonnay from southern Italy?” asked the judges. “Well, why not? It’s got just a hint of oak, and lovely weight, with tangy citrus fruit wrapped in a vanilla crumble coating. A very long finish. Excellent quality.”

Alliance Wine

Berkmann Wine Cellars

RRP £14.49

ABV 12.5%

RRP £27

ABV 13.5%

Produttori Di Manduria Zin Fiano

Mora & Memo Tino Vermentino di Sardegna

Salento, Puglia, Italy 2020

Sardinia, Italy 2020

White wine number two in this year’s Top 100 from the high-performing Puglian co-operative may have Zin in the title but it has nothing to do with the Californian name for Puglia’s most famous red grape variety.

Rather it’s an example of how good Fiano can be on this side of southern Italy, offering a different but no-less-attractive counterpoint to those produced from the variety in Campania.

“A floral, restrained nose, lovely attractive fruit on the palate, slightly tangy, lovely texture and superb balance. Really rather good,” the judges said. “Almonds and apricots, too. This is really fine wine with the variety’s typical depth, but also refreshing acidity.”

Perfectly placed to take advantage of moderating maritime and altitude influences, the Mora & Memo estate sits high up in the hills in south eastern Sardinia, just a handful of miles from the Mediterranean.

Those conditions are perfect for cultivating the island’s flagship varieties: Cannonau (Grenache) and, in this case, gloriously fresh and unoaked Vermentino.

“A saline nose with a bit of ozone,” the judges said. “Toasted almonds, lemon frangipane. This is so well balanced with a finish that keeps on going. A great food wine. Brilliantly commerical and great value. An instant ‘yes!’ for the shelves across the board.”

Alliance Wine

Alliance Wine

RRP £14.49

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ABV 13%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £17.50

ABV 13.5%

Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc

Tokara Reserve Collection Elgin Sauvignon Blanc

Constantia, Western Cape, South Africa 2020

Elgin, South Africa 2021

Klein Constantia will always be associated with the original Cape fine wine: the legendary sweet Muscat Vin de Constance.

But ever since the estate was revived in 1986 it has been growing its reputation for elegant, poised, fresh wines, with this typically racy Sauvignon Blanc very much among the highlights of an impressive range.

“Deftly rendered citrus nose: quite restrained, yet very appealing,” said the judges. “It’s a wine of elegance rather than new world boldness.

“Citrus and gentle tropical fruits; Loirelike elderflower and greengage. A clean and attractive limoncello finish; complex; lovely weight and balance. Really classy!”

Tokara’s Highlands farm in cool-climate Elgin has proved itself time and again to be one of the best places in the Cape to grow Sauvignon Blanc.

But if the vineyard is a big part of the secret of this much-awarded Sauvignon’s success, the winemaking, too, plays a part. Only the free-run juice from the best blocks is used, and a small portion is aged in used 500-litre oak barrels.

“Clean and elegant with orange blossom and a citrus nose,” the judges said. “Cool-climate structure and gentle minerality … nice clean and elegant finish. Excellent roundness and length.

“All in all just a really first-class example of what makes South African Sauvignon so attractive.”

Mentzendorff

ABS Wine Agencies

RRP £15

ABV 13.5%

RRP £23

ABV 13%

Strandveld Adamastor Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

Warwick Wine Estate Old Vine Chenin Blanc

Elim, Cape Agulhas, South Africa 2018

Stellenbosch, South Africa 2019

With its winery between Elim and Cape Agulhas, Strandveld is in prime cool-climate South Africa territory, the influence of the buffeting winds of the Cape very much in evidence in the vineyards that provide the fruit for what the judges called an “impressive, Bordeaux-esque” blend.

A blend of 54% Sauvignon and 46% Semillon, with the Semillon aged in 500-litre barrels, it has a “very expressive nose: classic elderflower and nettle.

“The Semillon really rounds things out, with lovely weight in the mouth, citrus fruits and minerality – it’s really quite textured and has a very long finish. Lots of wine for £19.”

Warwick Estate’s long history of wine production in Stellenbosch – it dates back to the 18th century – shouldn’t divert attention from its role as one of the driving forces of the Cape’s postapartheid winemaking renaissance.

This Chenin Blanc is a perfect example of the Warwick style. Using grapes from a vineyard planted in 1978 on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg, it’s vinified in 400-litre French oak barrels with exemplary care and attention.

“Rich golden colour,” the judges said. “Tropical fruits with rich butterscotch, burnt caramel and vanilla. A lively streak of limey acidity. The premium price matched by a complex balance of flavours; it has potential to age very well. It would be good to show white Burgundy lovers.”

Richmond Wine Agencies

Fells

RRP £18.95

RRP £27

ABV 12.5%

ABV 13.5%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

31

Red wines Riccitelli Tinto de la Casa

Finca Decero Remolinos Single Vineyard Malbec

Uco Valley, Mendoza Argentina 2020

Mendoza, Argentina 2018

The humble name ( “house red”) underplays the seriousness of intent. This is no mere restaurant cheapie, rather a blend of two of talented winemaker Matias Riccitelli’s best Uco Valley Malbec sites: 50% from 1,100m altitude Las Compuertas, 50% from Gualtallaray (1,400m).

“Big, inviting, pleasing meatiness on the nose, with strong jammy/compote characters, and fine-grained woody aromas that make you want to jump in head first,” the judges said.

“A delightful, dry and smooth approach, which leads to a velvety mid palate of dried fruit and dark plum/damson notes, and finishes with highly polished tannins and fabulous balance.

Very well integrated oak holds up excellently to the prime fruit. Brillante!”

At 1,050m above sea level in the quality Mendoza sub-region of Lujàn de Cuyo, Finca Decero’s Remolinos vineyard has a complex mix of alluvial and colluvial soils that have proved to be ideal for creating expressive Malbec wines.

For this iteration, 90% of the wine spends 14 months in French oak, 30% of which is new, the culmination of a winemaking regime that is all about sensitive handling, including gentle basket pressing.

“Such a delicious wine,” the judges said.

“Silky, soft well-balanced fruit – blueberry, spice, vanilla – and fine grained, structured tannins.

“A great example of a Mendoza Malbec – we love it! Great value.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Bancroft Wines

RRP £25.49

RRP £17.49

ABV 14.5%

ABV 14.5%

Viña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon

Bishop by Ben Glaetzer Barossa Valley Shiraz

Mendoza, Argentina 2020

Barossa Valley, Australia 2019

Such is the quality and variety of Malbec in Mendoza, it’s easy for other varieties produced in the high-altitude Argentine wine capital to get overlooked.

But this is a region that is just as adept at, among other things, the Bordeaux varieties – as Californian master winemaker Paul Hobbs demonstrates with this “sumptuous” Cabernet Sauvignon.

“Lovely dark colour,” the judges said.

“Blackcurrants, cassis … there’s something Coonawarra-esque on the nose. Blackcurrants, cherries, vanilla, mint, coffee, wood, vine tomato, ripe tannins and fleshy plums. Well-balanced and a persistent finish with menthol/eucalyptus.”

Glaetzer benefits from the expertise of two of Australia’s most respected winemakers: Colin Glaetzer and his son, Ben. Using fruit from very old vines in the Ebenezer sub-region of Barossa, the Bishop is aged for 16 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak to make what one judge said was “one of the best Shirazes I’ve ever tasted.

“Wow, this is an explosive, with aromas of dark cherries and blackcurrant and full-in-the-mouth plum flavours,” the judges continued. “A fullbodied wine where the tannins provide a nice tension in what is a very smooth mouth feel. The oak ageing is subtle but effective, with some nice vanilla and chocolate notes.”

Alliance Wine

Bancroft Wines

RRP £16.49

22 32

ABV 14.5%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £28.99

ABV 14.5%

Bec Hardy Wines Pertaringa Rifle & Hunt Cabernet Sauvignon

Heartland Wines Directors’ Cut Shiraz

McLaren Vale, Australia 2019

Langhorne Creek, Australia 2018

The backstory for this wine is rather less alarming than the name suggests: the Pertaringa Estate is on the corner of the Rifle Range and Hunt Roads in McLaren Vale.

It’s a geographically specific name for a geographically specific wine. As the judges said, this is “so McLaren Vale”.

“Elegant nose, dark fruits, but nicely restrained,” the judges continued. “Elegance also on the palate and a big mouth feel, but with lovely balance.

“Sweet cassis, but not cloying, and really good length. Very smart wine and a lot of wine for £22 .”

It’s aged for 20 months in French oak, 30% of which is new.

Wine number two in the Top 100 list this year for the influential Barossa winemaker Ben Glaezter hails from the operation he founded with Scott Collett, Grant Tilbrook and Nick Keukenmeester in 2001.

More than two decades on, Heartland has established a reputation for producing fine wines from some of South Australia’s lesserknown sites, notably Langhorne Creek, the source of this “bold and beautiful” Shiraz.

“Great intensity on the nose, very dark fruit, rich and powerful on the palate; a high alcohol sensation, big body and mouth feel, and a long finish,” the judges said.

“An excellent, delicious and exciting wine, which is very good value.”

Propeller

Bancroft Wines

RRP £22.99

ABV 15%

RRP £26.99

ABV 14.5%

Henschke Johann’s Garden Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz

Bec Hardy Wines Pertaringa Understudy Cabernet Sauvignon

Barossa Valley, Australia 2019

McLaren Vale, Australia 2019

From one of Australia’s “first growths”, the name Johann’s Garden is a tribute to the original Silesian winemaking pioneers in the Barossa Valley, many of whom were named Johann.

The wine itself also pays homage to the long history of Barossa wine, drawing as it does on vines with a minimum age of 70 years.

“Complex white truffle and a hint of white pepper on the nose; this is a real step up in quality,” the judges said.

“There’s a palate of summer fruits, cassis, and warm fruit (prune), all the while staying fresh with great length.

“The alcohol is high but perfectly balanced.

This is a great wine.”

The second entry in this year’s selection from Bec Hardy Wines, an impressive newcomer to the Wine Merchant Top 100 this year, is conceived as a foil for the Rifle & Hunt Cabernet (above).

Like a good Bordeaux second wine, The Understudy, in the words of Bec Hardy, is a “stylistic contrast” rather than a “second fiddle”, using prime McLaren Vale fruit and aged in 15% new French hogsheads for 18 months.

“Proper ripe Cabernet nose, cassis fruit, with concentration,” the judges said.

“Sweet dark fruits on the palate … classic Cabernet, nice and chewy, but not drying your mouth out. Big and bold.”

Liberty Wines

Propeller

RRP £41.99

ABV 14.5%

RRP £13.99

ABV 14.5%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

33

Red wines Jeanneret Wines Cabernet Malbec Clare Valley, Australia 2018 Founded by the Jeanneret family in 1992, and today run by winemaker Ben Jeanneret, this Clare Valley winery has what it calls “a simple and straight- to-the-point philosophy: to make the best wines possible”.

The judges clearly thought they were getting somewhere in that mission, putting two Jeanneret wines in their final selection, starting with this “stylish” blend of Cabernet and Malbec.

“Dark in colour, this has a really complex and interesting nose of sweet dark fruits with a hint of chocolate and coffee,” the judges said.

“Cassis and mocha on the palate – bold and mouthfilling.

“A long, rich finish: this is a big wine and it offers fabulous value for money. We all thought it would be at least £20.”

Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia 2018 One of the original founding estates of Margaret River, Moss Wood was founded in the Wilyabrup sub-region in 1969 and has been at the forefront of its quality wine scene ever since .

The Ribbon Vale Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a single-vineyard wine from one of Moss Wood’s two top sites, and includes a small proportion of 2% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot in the blend, which sees 16% new oak.

“A stunning nose of blackberry and blueberry with a hint of cedar notes,” the judges said.

“Dark ruby in colour, weighty in the glass, this has beautiful red fruits on the palate with amazing fine tannins. We loved this wine.”

Jeroboams Trade

Vindependents RRP £16.60

Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

ABV 14.5%

RRP £29.95

ABV 14%

Mitolo Jester McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon

Jeanneret Wines Shiraz Grenache Malbec

McLaren Vale, Australia 2018

Clare Valley, Australia 2020

Another Top 100 wine touched by the golden winemaking hand of Ben Glaetzer, who has been a partner at the Mitolo family’s consistently impressive McLaren Vale producer since 2001.

The Jester Cabernet uses fruit sourced from 20-year-old vines in the southern part of McLaren Vale, where the moderating influence of dry summer winds and breezes blowing in off the nearby ocean helps bring brightness and definition.

“A ripe and elegant nose, with sweet dark and red fruits,” the judges said.

“It’s very ripe on the palate, big and bold, with hints of pepper/spice, and a long sweet finish. A very good glass of wine at sensible money.”

This is the second wine from this highperforming, Halliday 5-star Clare Valley family producer in the Top 100 this year – and, like the first, it also includes a smattering of Malbec.

But where the Cabernet Malbec perhaps looks to Bordeaux stylistically, this wine, our judges thought, had more of a Rhône-ish feel, with the “Mourvèdre” (or Mataro) role taken up by Malbec.

Each variety is picked, vinified and aged (in older oak barrels) separately, before being blended for the final bottling.

“Lovely colour and a lifted red and black fruits nose: very appealing,” the judges said.

“Sweet ripe red and dark fruits with a lovely peppery streak and a long spicy finish.”

Liberty Wines

Vindependents

RRP £16.99

32 22 34

ABV 14.5%

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RRP £16.50

ABV 15.5%

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Red wines Matetic EQ Cool Climate Syrah San Antonio, Chile 2016

Domaine Remoriquet VosneRomanée 1er Cru Au-Dessus des Malconsorts

From its base in the Rosario Valley between the Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, Matetic is one of Chile’s leading small producers – and a pioneer, too, of both biodynamic viticulture and cool-climate Syrah in the country.

The EQ is sourced from the estate vineyards, which were planted on granitic soils in 1999.

Each lot is fermented in small open-top fermenters, and aged for between 18 and 22 months in French oak.

“Incredibly elegant and complex and with real Syrah character,” the judges said. “Inkily dark fruit … concentrated and dense, with a dash of black pepper. Serious, delicious, drinkable.

“You would be hard pushed to place this outside the Rhône in a blind tasting.

“Superb, with a finish that goes on forever.”

Burgundy, France 2019

Berkmann Wine Cellars

Vindependents

RRP £27.99

ABV 14%

Talented winemaker Gilles Remoriquet sources this stunning red from his vines in one of the best premiers crus in the legendary Burgundy village of Vosne-Romanée. Au-Dessus des Malconsorts is located right next door to a certain grand cru going by the name of La Tâche.

“The perfume is delightful. Raspberry and strawberry purée aromas; one of us would wear this, if it was a perfume,” the judges said.

“Silky smooth with soft strawberry and blueberry on the palate, the balance and finesse is obvious. The perfume of petals and the soft red fruit on the palate are glorious. A long finish.

Pretty spectacular!”

RRP £92

ABV 13.5%

Torres Chile Manso de Velasco

Plaimont Plénitude

Curicó, Chile 2014

Madiran, France 2015

Widely credited with being one of the prime movers in the development of the modern Chilean wine industry after setting up shop in the country in 1979, the Torres family’s South American outpost goes from strength to strength.

The wines made from the 115-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Manso de Velasco vineyard in the Curicó Valley remain a standout in the portfolio, however, with the latest release from the 2014 vintage showing off all the depth, intensity and balance for which the vineyard is renowned.

“What a wine!” the judges said. “Exquisite fruity and spicy bouquet with a palate of dark rich fruits and fine almost leathery notes with soft tannins. An intense flavoursome hit!”

The much-admired Plaimont co-operative has been an enormously significant player in the modern history of south western French wine, producing great value quality bottlings in the StMont and Côtes de Gascogne appellations – and darkly attractive reds in Madiran.

This top-end example of the latter is sourced from 5ha of vineyards across the clay terroir of the Viella, Cannet and Maumusson-Laguian districts. The appellation’s calling card, Tannat, dominates the blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

“Layered and beautifully balanced, it is full of complex flavours,” the judges said.

“There’s a superb interplay of fruit, tannins, and flavour – and excellent length. Very good value for money.”

Fells

Cachet Wines

RRP £37.99

32 22 36

ABV 13.5%

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RRP £27.99

ABV 12.5%

Extra exposure for smaller importers E Guigal Hermitage Hermitage, Rhône, France 2018 Few Rhône producers come with a higher reputation than E Guigal – and few Rhône appellations are more prestigious than Hermitage.

It probably won’t come as a surprise, then, to learn that this classic 100% Syrah left a big impression on the Top 100 judges.

Produced from fruit grown in Guigal’s four parcels on the famous hill, it’s aged for 36 months in oak, 50% of which is new.

“Lifted nose and lovely clean red/blue fruit,” the judges said.

“White pepper. Lots of red and black fruits and a touch of dark chocolate.

“High alcohol, but it’s well balanced by the weight of fruit. Brooding spice. Black pepper.

Glossy and highly impressive.”

Fells RRP £66

ABV 14%

Plaimont Le Faîte Rouge St-Mont, France 2017 If Plénitude (Plaimont’s other Top 100 winner this year) is an object lesson in how to make fine wines from the Tannat grape variety in Madiran, Le Faîte is all about showing off the terroir of the appellation with which the co-operative is all-but synonymous: St-Mont.

Again, Tannat leads the way in a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and a little of the local Pinenc, with the fruit sourced from some of the grower-members’ best parcels, and aged for 12 months in oak.

“Strawberry, soft red plum, violet, liquorice and a tiny bit of leather,” the judges said.

This has really good balance and length, and would be a decent choice as a Sunday roast wine, with the tannins working well with the meat.”

Corney & Barrow RRP £20.95

ABV 14%

Indie achieves Top 100 success The Top 100 is open to all UK suppliers, from the large established importers to the more niche startups and the independent merchants themselves.

Many indies direct import, some in small quantities for their own shops, but there are a number for whom importing is becoming a large part of their business model. The Top 100 provides a platform to showcase those wines to fellow independents.

This year, Louise Peverall and Bruno Etienne from La Cave de Bruno are celebrating their Top 100 wins.

As independent merchants, both have been judges for the competition. The first time around was pre-Covid, so Louise spent a day with the panel at The Worx in Fulham. A couple of years later the pair were sent the entries at their shop, to blind-taste the flights together. Having seen the competition from the inside, they decided it was the right place for their wines to raise their profile.

Louise says: “We feel that, we now have a full range of wines, from small producers across France, it was time to start showcasing! We import from around 55 producers, including our sparkling, Champagne, eaux de vie, Calvados and Cognac.”

The Domaine Franck Chavy Régnié 2019 was awarded a well-deserved Top 100 berth and a further eight Cave de Bruno wines achieved Highly Commended places. “Franck was delighted with his win,” says Louise.

The couple are already planning what to enter next year as their importing activities continue to grow beyond France. “Now that we have our French side where we want it,” Louise explains, “we have started to import a small selection from Spain, which of course we’d like to enlarge alongside our own Italian range.”

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Red wines Domaine Franck Chavy Régnié Régnié, Beaujolais, France 2019

Domaine La Lôyane Lirac Rouge Cuvée Marie Lirac, Rhône, France 2019

A fourth-generation Beaujolais producer in the communes of Villié-Morgon et de RégniéDurette, Domaine Franck Chavy is blessed with some superb parcels of Gamay vines, with the oldest planted between 1900 and 1910 in a vineyard holding that extends to 10ha in total across Morgon, Régnié and Brouilly.

For this village cuvée from the Régnié cru, he looks for maximum expression of the Gamay fruit, vinifying in tank, and bottling without added sulphur.

“Lovely body, harmonious, almost stewed summer berries with perfumed fruit in the mouth and a ripe tannic finish,” the judges said.

“Grippy, fruity, semi-developed with bottle age, yet youthful and firm. More than just enjoyable.”

The beginning of the story of Domaine la Lôyane is a familiar one: a fourth-generation family of vine growers turns to bottling their own wines during the “crise viticole” of the early 2000s.

The next part of the narrative, where a young winemaker (Romain Dubois) turns the 25ha domaine in Lirac into one of the rising stars of the southern Rhône, is by no means inevitable – but with wines such as this 60/40 Grenache/ Syrah cuvée from vines of up to 80 years in age, that’s exactly what Dubois has done.

“A complex and fascinating nose with hints of allspice and Chelsea bun,” the judges said.

“Sweet, herbaceous dark fruit. Big, structured tannins: a winter warmer of real character.”

La Cave de Bruno

Vindependents

RRP £21.99

ABV 14.5%

RRP £29.99

ABV 15%

Louis Jadot Château des Jacques Morgon

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge

Morgon, Beaujolais, France 2018

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2016

The immaculately-run Burgundy negociant Louis Jadot is also a key player in Beaujolais and, since the mid-1990s, has been slowly building up its holdings in the Morgon cru.

Here the distinctive roche pourrie schist soils, on a bedrock of granite, create Gamay wines of depth and intensity. This cuvée is vinified in stainless steel for maximum fruit expression.

“A very brooding, serious nose with bags of dark fruit drawing you in,” the judges said.

“Silky smooth and velvety on the palate, but with lovely soft tannins, and quite vibrant, crunchy/refreshing berry flavours – almost hints of capsicum. The finish is long – it’s an accomplished wine and really rather lovely” Hatch Mansfield RRP £19.40

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

Château la Nerthe is steeped in history: the château itself is more than 500 years old. From a winemaking perspective, however, it’s the past quarter-century, since the winery turned organic in 1998, that have been the most exciting.

Winemaker Rémi Jean oversees a complex Heinz-like collection of 57 parcels, which takes in all manner of different soil types, and is the basis of the wines’ complexity and finesse.

“Ready to go – a whiff of alcohol is soon forgotten when the plump, broad and charming fruit takes over,” the judges said. “Polished and enticing. Good balance and an all-round winner.

Nice spice and good ‘push’ too. Complex.”

Bancroft Wines RRP £51.99

ABV 15%

Mas Bécha Barrique Rouge Côte du Roussillon Villages, France 2019

San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria Riserva Anniversario 62 Puglia, Italy 2018

Winemaker Charles Perez took over the Mas Bécha estate in Aspres in the very south of Roussillon near the Spanish border in 2008, and immediately set about planting a 25ha organic vineyard on three hillside plots.

This blend of Syrah (70%), with equal parts Grenache and Mourvèdre, aged in new and used medium-toast French oak for nine months, is typical of the pristinely fruited Perez/Mas Bécha house style.

“Spice and pepper on the nose with red cherry and raspberry characteristics,” the judges said.

“Hints of liquorice, cedar and vanilla. Excellent structure, suggesting good ageing potential. A perfect match for red meat and game.”

A perennial favourite of successive panels of Top 100 judges, San Marzano’s flagship Primitivo is named to mark the formation of the top Puglian co-operative by 19 vine growers in 1962.

Produced from parcels of very old, densely planted bush vines in the centre of the Primitivo di Manduria appellation, it’s aged for 18 months in a combination of American and French oak.

“Immense black colour, almost luscious sweet black fruits on the nose … quite lifted and elegant,” the judges said.

“Sweet red and black fruits fill the mouth, good structure and a very long dark dense finish with a lovely spicy note. Very classy.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £21.49

RRP £27.25

ABV 15%

ABV 14.5%

Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo

Tedeschi Marne 180 Amarone della Valpolicella

Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2017

Valpolicella, Italy 2018

Founded by Michele Chiarlo in 1956, and currently run by his sons, Alberto and Stefano, this fine Barolo estate has consistently been one of the highest ranked in Piedmont for the better part of 70 years.

Its success is built on an impeccable collection of vineyards in some of Barolo’s greatest sites (Cannubi and Cerequio among them) and a sensitivity that brings out the terroir.

“A very complex nose of violets, leather, wormwood, pencil shavings and tobacco,” said the judges. “Seriously enjoyable to drink now, alone or with food. You close your eyes and it transports you to northern Italy immediately.

Class in a glass!”

Soil and exposition: two of the most important elements in any vineyard’s character, and both referenced in the title of this “awesome” Amarone, with Marne referring to marl, and 180 being the degree of exposure from south west to south east of the Tedeschi vineyards.

A blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara and Dindarella from various highly regarded plots within that vineyard, made with the usual Tedeschi flair in the winery and drying room, it’s “voluptuous, juicy, with balanced tartness, fruit, spice and the right level of sweetness,” the judges said.

“Full bodied, powerful, concentrated, long and chocolatey. Very good, and great value.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Fells

RRP £48.99

RRP £40.99

ABV 13%

ABV 16.5%

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Red wines Produttori di Manduria Lirica Primitivo di Manduria

San Marzano Vindoro Salento Negroamaro

Puglia, Italy 2019

Salento, Puglia, Italy 2019

Another good performance for the Produttori di Manduria in this year’s competition (and indeed, Puglia in general), with this red Top 100 entry a “gloriously fruit-driven” and “excellent value” example of local speciality Primitivo.

Sourced from vineyards aged between 15 and 35 years old, and planted at a density of 4,000 to 5,000 vines per hectare in the espalier system, it’s vinified without oak.

“Sweet fruit on the palate, summer fruits abound … concentrated red cherry,” the judges said.

“It’s a wine of really great balance. Good weight in the mouth and a really good finish, with plenty of freshness. Bravo!”

A second red in the Top 100 for San Marzano, a winery that has been garlanded with honours over its 60-year history, including being named co-operative of the year by Italy’s leading wine title, Gambero Rosso, last year.

For this cuvée it’s the Negroamaro variety that takes the spotlight. Sourced from selected plots between San Marzano and Francavilla Fontana, vinification includes a 15-day maceration, wild yeast fermentation and a year-long sojourn in French oak barriques.

“The big, sweet, ripe dark fruits are very mouthfilling,” the judges said. “This wine has everything: texture, balance, length and all in the right place. Really rather a smart wine.”

Alliance Wine

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £14.99

ABV 13.5%

RRP £24.99

ABV 14.5%

Fontanafredda Barolo di Serralunga d’Alba DOCG

Cantine Povero Cabanè Langhe Nebbiolo

Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2017

Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 2017

Serralunga d’Alba is one of the most prestigious crus in Barolo, and Fontanafredda is fortunate to have the largest vineyard holding in the area.

Indeed, the 100ha property is the largest contiguous wine estate in the Langhe region, taking in several acres of woodland as well as the vineyards and cellar buildings.

For this cuvée, the Nebbiolo gets a 15-day fermentation in stainless steel before spending a year in barrique and two years in oak.

“It delivers a good traditional Nebbiolo nose,” the judges said. “The palate is generously loaded, though, with charming polished, superfine tannins. Strawberry flesh, and a balsamic waft and tar. Classic, but accessible.”

Very much a family concern, Catine Povero was founded in 1948 by Bartolomeo Povero and is today run by his grandchildren Alessio, Daniele, Luca, Romano and Margherita, who are carrying on a family winemaking tradition in the region that dates back to the 1830s.

Sustainability is the watchword here, with the family eschewing chemical fertilisers and herbicides. Electricity is solar-powered and the water comes from an ancient well. ​“Leather, dark cherries, and a little slug of blackcurrant fruit to brighten it up,” the judges said. “The palate is richer and rounder with lovely smoky characters, pencil shavings and dark fruit. We’d sell a ton of it at that price!”

Enotria&Coe

Vindependents

RRP £46.50

40

ABV 14%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £13.50

ABV 14%

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Red wines San Felice San Fiorenzo Bolgheri

Paolo Leo Passitivo Primitivo

Bolgheri, Tuscany 2019

Puglia, Italy 2020

One of Tuscany’s leading estates, San Felice is of course best known for its work in its Chianti Classico home. But the producer has brought all its know-how to its latest project, the 6ha San Fiorenzo estate in the coastal region of Bolgheri.

The sandy-silt soils are planted with 4ha of Merlot and 2ha of Cabernet Sauvignon. If the vines are still young, they are already producing impressive depth and quality, not least in this bottling from the 2019 vintage, which is aged for 12 months in French oak.

“Very elegant and refined on the nose,” the judges said. “A lush fruit profile of cassis, red berries, rhubarb, marzipan and dark cherries.

Lovely tannins that are polished but have a sweet earthy spice. A beautifully elegant wine.”

If Valpolicella remains the global reference point for red wines made from fully or partially dried grapes, Puglia is increasingly valued by merchants for providing affordable versions of the style that are every bit as alluringly rich and crowd-pleasing.

Paolo Leo’s version is a perfect case in point.

Gaining extra smoothness from its five months in American oak, it offers “a classic Primitivo nose”, the judges said, with “spicy, herby, sweet dark fruits: there’s a real warmth to the wine.

“On the palate, it’s filled with sweet mouthfilling dark herby fruits, almost verging on chocolate richness.

“A really big finish here, too – really impressive for £12.99. Very good value. “

Boutinot

North South Wines

RRP £21.99

ABV 12.5%

Agricola Marrone Barolo Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2018 Over four generations, the Marrone family behind the eponymous Barolo winery has steadily built up a reputation for wines of real elegance and excellence.

Based in the top Barolo village of La Morra, the family makes a full range of wines that takes in Arneis whites, Barbera reds and single-cru Barolo, but this, the estate Barolo, remains the flagship.

“Cranberries and smoky hints on the nose with underlying marjoram notes,” the judges said.

“On the plate, delightful baked fruit flavours with almond, complemented by a leathery spicy mix and hints of sandalwood.

“Quite firm tannins and a judicious use of oak, all leading up to a lovely, lingering finish.”

Vindependents RRP £37

ABV 14.5%

RRP £12.99

ABV 14.5%

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany 2017 Virginie Saverys, the Belgian lawyer turned wine producer and owner of Avignonesi, has transformed this Tuscan estate since acquiring it a couple of years after changing career in 2009.

Following her passion for sustainability, she has made Avignonesi the largest biodynamic estate in Italy – and the attention to detail that generally comes with the practice is very much in evidence in the wines, not least this fine expression of Sangiovese.

“Delightful, fresh, but deeply flavoured and well-made,” the judges said. “It’s very pretty, and has a suave feel with good acid and rich fruit – it’s all here. Nicely structured too.”

Vindependents RRP £26

ABV 13.5%

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Red wines Fattoria Casaloste Chianti Classico Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 2018 Located in Panzano, equidistant between Florence and Siena and right in the spiritual centre of the Chianti Classico zone, Fattoria Casaloste extends over 18ha of Tuscan hills.

Owners Giovanni and Emilia Battista d’Orsi’s estate Chianti Classico had its first vintage in 1993, and has always included a small portion (10% in this case) of Merlot, to add “elegance” to the Sangiovese.

“Lovely brooding dark colour with cherry notes, plums and a slight leafiness,” the judges said.

“Silky-smooth, hinting of cherry sweets and sweet exotic spice. An elegant lightness on the tongue with the acidity, spice and tannins intermingling like a dream. This has everything Chianti should have: fragrance, fruit, spice, acidity, tannin and joy. Beautiful wine.”

Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 2016 In its own notes for this wine, Fiuli producer Monviert describes the local grape variety Refosco as “frank, direct and at the same time of surprising sweetness”.

It’s a charming description that rather sums up the “singular” appeal it had for our judges.

“It’s an unusual wine full of its own unique style,” they said.

“Purple with violet highlights in the glass, it has rustic aromas of alpine herbs and dark hedgerow fruits. The attack is dry, with a mid-palate that matches the herbaceous notes, finishing with a hint of raspberry and tremendous grip. Fresh and singular.”

Vindependents

Jeroboams Trade RRP £19.95

Monviert Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso

ABV 14%

RRP £29.99

ABV 13%

Michele Chiarlo La Court Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza

Colomba Bianca Nero d’Avola Vitese

Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy 2016

Sicily, Italy 2020

Michele Chiarlo may be best known for its range of outstanding Nebbiolo wines (see Tortoniano Barolo, page 39). But the family firm is a master, too, of other Piedmontese grape varieties, not least Barbera, which in this “top-class” example hails from a single 6ha vineyard – Tenuta la Court – in the commune of Castelnuovo Calcea in the Nizza DOCG. “Black cherry, nutmeg, liquorice and a savoury, iron-rich meatiness with a lick of black olive tapenade and garrigue herbs,” the judges said.

“It needs lots of time to unfurl, but the length holds its fruit and goes on and on, gently fading to cedary oak. A mellow wine suitable for a good cheeseboard, some vinyl and a roaring fire.”

One of Italy’s largest producers, Colomba Bianca is Sicily’s largest grower co-operative, with just shy of 10,000ha of vineyards. But it’s no mere wine factory. With 1,800ha of certified organic vineyards, it’s also Italy’s biggest producer of organic wine.

The co-op works with both international and local varieties, but its Top 100 winner this year was all about Sicily’s very own Nero d’Avola.

“A brilliant deep red wine, this has cherry and blackberry on the nose,” the judges said.

“Rich and juicy flavours of plum and cherry with a long, spicy finish, with just a touch of residual sugar. The tannins are soft and elegant with some lovely structure.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £49

RRP £10.75

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Casa Ferreirinha Castas Escondidas Douro Tinto Douro, Portugal 2018 Recent years have seen a boom in table wine in the Douro, but Casa Ferreirinha long pre-dates current fashions: it became the first Douro producer to concentrate exlusively on table wines, rather than Port, way back in 1952.

This cuvée shows off all the skill of winemaker Luis Sottomayor, and showcases the “Castas Escondidas” (“hidden varieties”) of Touriga Fêmea: Tinta Francisca, Marufo and Bastardo “Initially elegant if a little subdued on the nose, the wine soon opens up you find dried flowers, minerals and a saline note,” the judges said. “On the palate there’s epic concentration, and very fine, beautiful tannins. Really long, coiled– one for the decanter or the cellar.”

Liberty Wines RRP £44.99

Douro, Portugal 2019 The Prats and the Symingtons – two of the world’s best-known winemaking families– announced their plan to make fine table wine together back in 1999.

More than two decades later, this Bordeauxmeets-Douro project is firmly established at the very pinnacle of an increasingly competitive Douro table wine scene.

Post Scriptum is intended as a good-value complement for the project’s top bottling, Chryseia.

“Ripe dark fruits aromas, morello cherry under spirits, dry plum, dry figs, nuts … great graphite minerality,” said the judges.

“The oak is well integrated. The palate is balanced, the finish long and it’s highly complex.”

Fells

ABV 13.5%

Quinta do Espinho Grande Reserva Douro, Portugal 2015 Quinta do Espinho’s owner, the Macedo Pinto family, has been involved in Douro winemaking for generations. But the modern chapter for both family and quinta really began in 1986, when replanting of the 20ha estate was initiated.

In 2010, the family switched attention to the winery, with a complete restoration perfectly in keeping with the local traditions, while incorporating all the latest winemaking kit.

The result of all this activity is some seriously good wine. “Great acidity, and full-bodied with fine, ripe tannnins to match,” the judges said.

“A slightly sour note on the finish balances the sweet ripe fruit and underlines with sweet baking spice. This would be a treat for many. “ Vindependents RRP £29.99

Prats & Symington Post Scriptum

ABV 13.5%

RRP £22.96

ABV 14%

Jordan Cobblers Hill Stellenbosch, South Africa 2018 Mainstays of the transformation of modern South African wine, Gary and Cathy Jordan have made the family estate, bought by master shoemaker Ted Jordan in 1982, into one of the Cape’s signature names.

Named with a nod to Ted’s and the family’s shoemaking heritage, the Cobblers Hill is a Bordeaux-style blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, grown on decomposed granite soils.

“Pronounced minty/eucalyptus notes, with blackberry and dark plum on the nose,” the judges said.

“A slight hint of cinnamon and vanilla. Really pleasant mouth feel, slightly earthy and a spicy finish. We would very happily stock this wine.”

ABS Wine Agencies RRP £35.55

ABV 14%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Red wines Vilafonté Series M

Mas Blanch i Jové Saó Expressiu

Paarl, South Africa 2018

Costers del Segre, Spain 2018

A Cape-Californian joint venture, Vilafonté is a Paarl fine-wine project founded by South African wine marketer Mike Ratcliffe with two big names in Californian wine – winemaker Zelma Long and viticulturist Phil Freese in 1997.

The trio’s Series M is designed to be the ultimate expression of the ancient vilafonté soils that give the 42ha estate on the bench of the Simonsberg Mountains its name, and is a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

“A beautiful nose of liquorice, pepper and black fruit,” the judges said. “Elegant, well made, complex … this is a genuinely stunning bottle.

Exceptionally well balanced: a truly fabulous wine that is a match for any Bordeaux-style wine made anywhere in the world.”

Based up in the Catalan highlands at 700m above sea leval, Mas Blanch i Jové is a family winery working some 17ha of land.

The family’s sustainable credentials are further boosted by using solar energy to power the winery and bottling all wines as vegan-friendly and with low sulphur.

The Saó Expressiu is a blend of mostly Garnacha with Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo from the Les Garrigues sub-zone of the Costers del Segre DO. “Deep inky garnet, a very enticing dark, brooding nose with chocolate, liquorice and herbs: the works,” the judges said.

“Super-silky smooth on the palate … warm and embracing. Rich, opulent, enveloping, delightful.

A bear hug in a glass.”

Fells

Vindependents

RRP £60

ABV 14%

Swartland Winery Limited Release Mourvèdre Swartland, South Africa 2021 Few wine regions in the world have made a bigger splash in the past decade than Swartland, which has set a new standard for South African Rhône-style wines, and all very much with its own distinctive spin.

The Swartland Winery has been a key player in that revolution and, in a region of boutique producers, it continues to stand out for the high quality-to-price ratio of its offerings.

This 100% Mourvèdre is taken from old bush vines and the judges loved its “smoky, dry, slightly sweaty” style. “It’s a bearish kind of wine,” they added. “Grilled game, violet and raspberry, with a bit of thyme. Good length too and gentle tannins. Great value: an easy addition.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £12.49

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RRP £24.50

ABV 14.5%

Bodegas La Horra Corimbo Ribera del Duero, Spain 2017 Bodegas La Horra is the stylish offshoot of one of the stars of modern Rioja, Bodegas Roda, which established this rising star of Ribera del Duero in 2008.

The two wineries share the same technical team, with La Horra benefiting from the skills of celebrated viticulturists, the Balbás brothers, working with bush vines of up to 100 years in age at altitudes of around 800m above sea level.

No surprise, then, that La Horra’s 100% Tempranillo wines share the purity and definition of their Rioja siblings.

“Simply an excellent wine,” the judges said. “It has very pure fruit, but some age brings a touch of farmyard on the nose and some complexity on the palate. Well balanced with silky tannins. A long finish with fruit, acidity and spice.”

Mentzendorff RRP £24

ABV 14.5%

Montecillo Rioja Aniversario 150 Rioja, Spain 2018 Montecillo has been transformed in recent years

by Mercedes Garcia Ruperez, who has ushered the wines into the modern age while staying true to the estate’s distinguished past – a 150year heritage honoured in the name of this special cuvée.

A blend of 85% Tempranillo with 15% Graciano, it’s made from selected dry-farmed, bush-vine plots in Rioja Alta, averaging 35 years in age. The varieties are vinified separately and aged in new and used French and mixed oak barrels for 20 months.

“A mouthful of deliciously ripe fruit, with savoury oak elements and refreshing acidity,” the judges said. “Super concentrated and complex.

Properly satisfying. At this price it is a serious contender to make it onto the shelf.”

Ucopia Wines RRP £16

ABV 13.5%

Jean Leon Vinya La Scala Uco Valley, Mendoza Argentina 2015 Part of the Torres stable, Jean Leon benefits from the same attention to detail as the rest of the Torres family’s meticulously managed portfolio.

The brand’s top cuvée, Vinya La Scala, comes from a single 8ha vineyard in the Penedès first planted in 1963, and, like other top Torres wines such as Mas La Plana, it’s an example of just how good Cabernet Sauvignon can be in the Catalan region.

“Beautifully deep, rich and full, with classic warm-climate Cabernet notes of ripe blackcurrant, dark cherry, olive and beautifully integrated toasty oak,” the judges said.

“You get a feeling of winemaking selfconfidence from this wine. The character of the vineyard is really on display.”

Fells RRP £39.99

ABV 14.5% THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Dessert & fortified wines Cantine Pellegrino Passito Pantelleria Liquoroso Pantelleria, Sicily, Italy 2020 The Pellegrino family has been making wine in Sicily since 1880, and over the 142 years of its existence has developed a name for quality both across the island of Sicily itself and on neighbouring Pantelleria.

Located 100km to the south west of Sicily, and just 60km from the coast of Tunisia, Pantelleria is known for the aromatic sweet wines made from Zibbibo (Muscat of Alexandria).

This cuvée is a blend of fresh and raisined grapes, lightly fortified to 15% ABV, and aged in stainless steel for five months.

“Great candied citrus nose and layers of flavour,” the judges said. “This feels rich on the palate with the sweetness balanced by a spicy, burnt orange note. Classy and different.”

Fells

Poças 20 Years Old Tawny Port Douro, Portugal NV One of the very few Port houses founded by native Portuguese that has stayed in the same family ever since, Poças has a 100-year history of making high-quality Port and table wines.

Tawny Ports are a particular speciality, with a full range of single-vintage Colheita and blended aged wines, with this 20-year-old example of the latter being a blend from Tabuaço, Ervedosa do Douro (Cima Corgo), and Numão (Douro Superior), aged in 625-litre barrels.

“Dark amber and tawny in colour, with a lovely nose of cooked marmalade, toffee and baking spice,” the judges said. “On the palate it is full of life and packed with toffee apple, more baking spice, nut brittle and caramalised banana.

Focused elegance. A pure joy.”

Cachet Wines

RRP £16.49

ABV 15%

RRP £49.99

ABV 20%

Sandeman Quinta do Seixo Vintage Port

Henriques & Henriques 15 Year Old Verdelho

Douro, Portugal 2019

Madeira, Portugal NV

Sandeman Port, one of the great names of fortified wine, has been enjoying a renaissance under the ownership of Sogrape.

The spiritual home of the brand is the beautiful 108ha Quinta do Seixo near Pinhão, with the terraces of very old (up to 100 years old) vines forming the backbone of the Sandeman Vintage Port – and, in 2019, producing a “fabulous” single-quinta wine.

“This is so elegant,” the judges said.

“Floral, mineral, pure blackcurrant … just wonderful on the nose. The palate is fresh, elegant, concentrated: such delightful balance.

Quite a polished style, it’s young but the tannins are ripe and melded in, with a long finish.”

A good year in the competition for this historic Madeira producer, with this aged Verdelho joining the Best Value Fortified Trophy-winning 10 Year Old Malvasia in the Top 100.

Aged like the Malvasia using the traditional canteiro system in which the wine is gently warmed and concentrated as it matures in casks beneath the eaves of the H&H lodges, the Verdelho was another big hit with the judges.

“Developed aromas: intense almond, caramel, fig, cedar, coffee, and muscovado sugar,” the judges said. “The aromas follow through to palate, with a long finish which evolves into a savoury, nutty treat. Oustanding, and would be great at Christmas, as a gift or just for keeping.”

Liberty Wines

Mentzendorff

RRP £69.99

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ABV 19.5%

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

RRP £28

ABV 19%

Highly Commended Wines Only 100 wines can make the final cut in the competition and that means that some excellent wines miss out on a placing.

That’s especially true in a year when entries achieved a new record.

But judging is all about fine margins, and our Highly Commended wines deserve credit for impressing our panel of independent merchants.

Highly commended wines England sparkling wines Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvée, Sussex 2014 (£38, Roebuck Estates): Richness, good flavour, balance, structure, very enjoyable to drink. Quality wine.

Roebuck Estates Blanc de Noirs, Sussex 2015 (£47, Roebuck Estates): Clean and delicate palate with baked apple and elderflower. Well balanced.

France sparkling wines Champagne Germar Breton Millésime, Champagne 2014 (£46, Vindependents): Apples and brioche; pretty mousse; stylish mid-palate; long citric finish.

Champagne Germar Breton Fût de Chêne, Champagne NV (£42, Vindependents): Cinnamon, ground nutmeg, vanilla; buttery, unusual, but well balanced and rich.

Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs, Champagne NV (£50, Fells): Classic blanc de blancs. Delicate nose, lovely brioche yeasty palate. Good weight and finish.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillate Terroir Premier Cru, Champagne NV (£67, Castelnau Wine Agencies): Fruity, complex, biscuity; balanced and very pleasant.

Taittinger Brut Réserve, Champagne NV (£47.05, Hatch Mansfield): Well balanced with crisp apple and lots of depth of flavour; classic NV Champagne.

Taittinger Brut Prestige Rosé NV, Champagne NV (£55.65, Hatch Mansfield): Sour cherry on palate, flinty essence. Long, evolving finish. So tasty.

Domaine Capdepon Crémant de Limoux Révélation, Limoux, Languedoc NV (£17.99, La Cave de Bruno): Crunchy apples; fresh, decent wine at a decent price.

Domaine Capdepon Crémant de Limoux Révélation Rosé, Limoux, Languedoc NV (£19.99, La Cave de Bruno): Good-value rosé that should please UK tastes.

Champagne Delavenne Père & Fils Lumière Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Champagne NV (£42, Vindependents): Ripe, evolved: good value.

Irroy Extra Brut, Champagne NV (£37.60, Hatch Mansfield): Good with bright energy and flow. Nice weight too: great feel and juicy to the end.

Dourdon Vieillard Brut, Champagne NV (£33.99, La Cave de Bruno): Toasted, rounded nose with a slight sweetness. Good balance. Unusual.

Taittinger Prélude Grands Cru, Champagne NV (£65.10, Hatch Mansfield): Like apple strudel with cream in a glass. Good minerality on the finish.

Devaux Coeur de Nature Organic, Champagne NV (£49.99, Liberty Wines): Pale strawberry hues with bitter apricot aromas. Good minerality.

Taittinger Folies de la Marquetterie, Champagne NV (£76.75, Hatch Mansfield): This is serious! Orange blossom, tangerine: floral. Very soft and creamy.

Italy sparkling wines

Taittinger Brut, Champagne 2015 (£68.25, Hatch Mansfield): Lemon zest on the nose; a fuller style on the palate with almost a Marmite-on-toast feel.

Taittinger Nocturne Sec, Champagne NV (£47.05, Hatch Mansfield): High energy, fine flow: rich honey and brioche, but lots of acidity to balance.

Gardet Brut Reserve, Champagne NV (£39.99, Cachet Wines): Complex; good long finish. Tastes more expensive than it is. Great value.

Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Quality Brut, Champagne NV (£39.99, Cachet Wines): Well-balanced; fresh. Citrus and apple; good minerality. A great-value Champagne.

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Prapian Estate Prosecco Brut Biologico, Valdobbiadene Superiore NV (£17.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): One of the best Proseccos we’ve tried.

Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti Nivole, Moscato d’Asti, 2021 (£11.25, 37.5cl, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Sweet, refreshing; gorgeously textured mousse. A star.

Cantina di Soliera Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC Dry, Lambrusco di Sobara DOC NV (£10.99, Boutinot): Cherry, raspberry: a summer dazzler! Great value too.

New Zealand sparkling wines Akarua Rosé Brut, Central Otago NV (£26.99, Liberty Wines): Rich, very dry, herbaceous edge: lovely acidity that leaves you wanting more. A good glass of wine.

Spain sparkling wines Dominio de la Vega Reserva Especial Cava Brut, Cava 2017 (£24.95, Jeroboams Trade): Lovely balance of secondary and primary fruit with a long finish.

Fincas de Azabache Tempranillo Blanco Sparkling Brut, Rioja NV (£25.95, Richmond Wine Agencies): Lovely balance; lemon zest, green apple. Good length.

Argentina white wines Onofri Wines Alma Gemela White Field Blend, Los Chacayes, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (£16.99, Condor Wines): Easygoing yet complex; rich and tropical.

Australia white wines Peter Lehmann Wigan Riesling, Eden Valley 2015 (£23.99, Liberty Wines): Wonderful aged Riesling nose. Not heavy but complex and elegant.

Lethbridge Chardonnay, Geelong, Victoria 2019 (£35, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Fantastic, mineral, steely; bright, zesty fruit; subtle oak; beautifully integrated.

Flametree Wines Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River 2021 (£16.99, Vindependents): Gooseberry and tropical fruit with good balance and mouth feel.

Wakefield St Andrews Riesling, Clare Valley 2019 (£25.99, Louis Latour Agencies): Fantastic nose. Zingy, zesty, saline palate. Riesling through and through.

Vasse Felix Premier Chardonnay, Margaret River 2020 (£27.99, Fells): Very well intergrated fruit, acidity and oak. Quite special: a match for Burgundy at this price.

Scotchmans Hill Pinot Gris, Geelong, Victoria 2021 (£24.99, Cachet Wines): Amazing minerality, hints of pear, lemon; a spicy finish … what a wine!

Isolation Ridge Riesling, Frankland River, Western Australia 2020 (£25.99, Bancroft): Spice, floral, citrus.

Soft mouth feel. Complex, elegant and long.

Henschke Peggy’s Hill Riesling, Eden Valley 2021 (£21.99, Liberty Wines): Apple, pear, ozone aromas.

Satisfying mouth feel. Clean and very good.

Robert Oatley Signature Series Riesling, Great Southern, Western Australia 2021 (£14.40, Hatch Mansfield): Great-value classic Aussie Riesling.

Tahbilk Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria 2020 (£14.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bags of flavour; a serious lick of acidity; long finish.

Port Phillip Estate Red Hill Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2019 (£23.95, Jeroboams Trade): Tropical fruits, hazelnuts, orchard fruits. Elegant.

Larry Cherubinno Ad Hoc Hen and Chicken Chardonnay, Pemberton, Margaret River 2020 (£16.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Great; complex; value.

Yangarra Blanc, McLaren Vale 2021 (£19.99, Boutinot): A very smart sun-filled Aussie nod to the peachy white Rhône blend.

Piero Vineyards Chardonnay, Margaret River 2019 (£42.95, Jeroboams Trade): Excellent reductive-smoky edge alongside some long lingering fruit. Classy.

Austria white wines Weingut Rabl Grüner Veltliner Käferberg Reserve, Kamptal 2020 (£24.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Hints of pea, spice; quite rich, lovely soft acidic finish.

Chile white wines Montes Zapallar Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc, Aconcagua Costa 2021 (£17.99, Liberty Wines): Good fruit; slightly herbal note on the palate. Lovely acidity.

Exciting!

Morandé Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca 2020 (£16, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Vibrant, juicy, zesty, mineral; amazing finish. Great balance.

Tabalí Talinay Chardonnay, Limarí 2021 (£19.99, Boutinot): Almost Burgundian finesse while still retaining a new world fruitiness. Excellent value.

England white wines Henners Gardner Street Classic, East Sussex 2020 (£17.99, Boutinot): Zingy acidity, grassy notes with lemon pith and a lovely tang.

Flametree Wines SRS. Wallcliffe Chardonnay, Margaret River 2021 (£31.99, Vindependents): Good acidity, well-defined flavours; well-integrated oak.

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Highly commended wines France white wines Cave de la Bouquette, Sancerre 2020 (£24.99, La Cave de Bruno): Classic Sancerre: full, mineral, deepflavoured; graceful and inviting.

M Chapoutier Schieferkoft Via Saint-Jacques Riesling, Alsace 2016 (£20, Hatch Mansfield): Peach and stone fruit flavours. Punchy, intense, with a rich full finish.

Genetie La Rencontre St-Véran, Burgundy 2019 (£18.49, Boutinot): Plum, peach, floral, pineapple; good mouth feel. Balanced, good acidity, long finish.

Chateau de Montfrin A la Rêverie Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Rhône 2020 (£15.95, Jeroboams Trade; Aurore): Buttered toast, stone fruit, apple, spice. Weighty.

Château Lestrille Capmartin Blanc, Bordeaux 2019 (£17.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Weighty yet fresh and zingy; good and very engaging.

Domaine Prieur-Brunet Santenay Blanc, Burgundy 2020 (£37.50, Hatch Mansfield): Honey, lemon, baked apple; vanilla and oak nuances. Classy.

Famille Hugel Gentil, Alsace 2019 (£14.99, Fells): Lively and zesty nose, really appealing and attractive, lovely summmer wine. Zingy, ripe and fresh.

Domaine William Fèvre Grand Cru Bougros Chablis, Chablis, Burgundy 2017 (£79.49, Fells): Light, fresh, mineral; beautifully made. Well-balanced; textured.

Mas Astelia Chardonnay, IGP Pays d’Oc (£25, Domaines Paul Mas): Rich, balanced. Perfume: Chanel, darling! Rich and bright finish. Something different.

Domaines de Ladoucette Marc Brédif, Vouvray, Loire 2019 (£19.99, Fells): Jasmine, Chinese pear; delicate manuka honey; mineral. Spot on.

Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château Blanc Premier Cru, Burgundy 2018 (£37,.49, Fells): Creamy vanilla, honey, lemon. Excellent weight; quality wine.

Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Chablis 2020 (£37.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): A good example of Fourchaume; bright, racy and incisive.

Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Autour de la Roche, Burgundy 2018 (£34, Hatch Mansfield): White flowers, gunpowder; weighty but not cumbersome; engaging.

Joseph Mellot Les Thureaux, Menetou-Salon, Loire 2020 (£15.60, Hatch Mansfield): Rounded, creamy stone fruit. Very interesting wine. Good value.

Domaine Vendange Jacquère La Côte Savoie 2020 (£15.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Good balance; lovely rich apricot and stone fruit flavours. Complex.

Domaine Vendange Roussette de Savoie Altesse, Madame de M …, Savoie 2019 (£16.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Apples, minerals, herbs: lovely.

Joseph Mellot Le Chant des Vignes, Pouilly-Fumé 2020 (£18.30, Hatch Mansfield): Very stylish; gentle, elegant; grassy. Lovely creaminess on the palate.

Domaine Fournillon, Chablis 2018 (£17.99, Vindependents): Good weight and drive and delicious stone fruit; vibrant, ripe but energetic.

Coquille de Mer Vermentino, IGP Pays d’Oc 2020 (£9.99, Cachet Wines): Floral, clean, well balanced; easy to drink. A well-made wine, good value.

French Bulldog White, IGP Pays d’Oc 2020 (£14.99, Buckingham Schenk): A superior everyday wine to be enjoyed at the dinner table.

Plaimont Maestria, Pacherenc du Vic Bilh 2017 (£16, Wine Service): Marmalade, saffron, spice; a compelling combination of sweet and savoury.

Plaimont Grand Cru Cirque Nord, Saint Mont 2019 (£39.50, Corney & Barrow): Really ripe stone fruit; sweet hay, candied fruit. Rich with crème brulee.

Bergerie du Capucin Les 100 Pas du Berger, Saint Guilhem le Désert 2020 (£15.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Zingy, fresh, viscous; classy winemaking.

M Chapoutier Collection Bio Adunatio Blanc, Côtes du Rhône 2021 (£15.50, Hatch Mansfield): Inviting nose with lemon and cream; limestone mineral notes.

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

PLAIMONT PACHERENC VINEYARDS

Claude Val Blanc, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£7.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Well balanced and good fruit, long finish. Great value: delivers more than expected.

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo Cutizzi, Campania 2020 (£20.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Tangy apple and pear: great concentration. Real interest.

Domaine Philippe et Sylvain Ravier Altesse Rousette de Savoie, Savoie 2020 (£14.50, Jeroboams Trade): Rich peach aromas. Dry finish. Well balanced.

Barone Ricasoli Torricella Chardonnay Toscana, Tuscany 2019 (£20.99, Fells): Complex and weighty.

Cream soda and vanilla. Solid well-made Chardonnay.

Louise Chéreau Katharos Muscadet Sans Sufre Ajouté, Muscadet 2019 (£15.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Rich; pronounced complexity and texture.

Cantine Pellegrino Isesi, Pantelleria, Sicily 2020 (£20.49, Fells): Mango, lime; a flinty element. Citrus palate, grapefruit. Good long finish. Intriguing.

Georgia white wine

Santa Maria La Nave Sicilia Bianco Millesulmare, Sicily 2017 (£51.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Flinty, minerals; grapefruit. Refreshing acidity.

Vachnadziani Winery Mtsvane, Kakheti 2020 (£12.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Super fragrant; beautiful clean fruit; a long, fresh finish. Gorgeous!

Germany white wine

Basilisco Sophia, Basilicata 2019 (£16.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Herby, saline under juicy pear and citrus; great acidity. Ripe without being opulent.

Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt Alte Reben Weissburgunder, Pfalz 2020 (£16.99, Vindependents): Citrus zing; vanilla. Round, ripe, balanced. Good value.

San Silvestro Fossili, Gavi del Commune di Gavi 2021 (£14.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Leesy, fruity; great intensity and length, herbaceous and fresh.

Greece white wine

Lebanon white wine

Diamantakis Petali Assyrtiko, Kato Assites, Crete 2021 (£14.99, Vindependents): Crisp, clean, salty: balanced and mouth-filling peaches. Great food wine.

Château Oumsiyat Assyrtico Cuvée Membliarus, Bekaa Valley 2020 (£11.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Coastal style: so refreshing and enjoyable.

Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi Kydonitsa, Laconia 2019 (£14.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Light, refreshing, floral; aromatic; a great lunch wine.

New Zealand white wine

Diamantakis Diamantopetra White, Kato Assites, Crete 2021 (£17.99, Vindependents): Sugared almonds, chamomile, menthol, zippy lemon. Superb.

Te Mata Elston, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£32, Fells): Elegant nose, whiff of oak. Clean fruit on the palate. Amazing length with a myriad of flavours and lovely acidity.

Italy white wine

Two Paddocks Estate Riesling, Central Otago 2019 (£24.99, Fells): Fresh lemon and lime, stony minerality. A lovely fresh crisp wine.

San Marzano Vermentino Timo, Salento, Puglia 2020 (£12.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lovely greengage fruit; good length; soft and voluptuous.

Tinpot Hut Turner Vineyard Riesling, Marlborough 2021 (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Easy-drinking style, great balance of fruit, acid, alcohol. More please!

Villa Raiano Greco di Tufo, Campania 2020 (£15.99, Third Floor Wines): Apricot and white pepper on the nose; clean but complex finish. Elegant.

Tiki Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, North Canterbury 2021 (£18.50, Castelnau): A lovely easydrinking SB with lemon, pears and cleansing acidity.

Tramin Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige 2020 (£28.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Beautiful long finish; excellent example of northern Italian Gewürz.

Lake Chalice Riesling The Falcon, Marlborough 2020 (£15.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bursting with lime and elderflower – delightfully fruity, off-dry.

Antonella Corda Vermentino di Sardegna, Sardinia 2021 (£20.99, Liberty Wines): Super saline and bracing: like a sea breeze! Mineral; serious.

Seifried Family Winemakers Würzer, Nelson 2019 (£16.49, Fells): Ripe style, beautiful acidity. An amazingly drinkable wine with great tropical notes.

THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

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Highly commended wines New Zealand white wines Framingham Classic Riesling, Marlborough 2021 (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Crisp, dry, elegant style.

Lovely acidity and a powerful finish.

Seifried Family Winemakers Gewürztraminer, Nelson 2021 (£16.49, Fells): Floral: lavender and rose. Dry yet perfumed. A great example of the variety.

Ant Moore Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2021 (£13.99, Alliance Wine): A textbook Sauvignon: just on the right side of underripe.

Seifried Family Winemakers Aotea Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson 2020 (£18.49, Fells): Pleasing creaminess; herbs; green fruit; long length. Enjoyable.

Esk Valley Artisanal Collection Albariño, Hawke’s Bay 2021 (£15.35, Hatch Mansfield): Discernably Albariño: zesty, zippy; intense peach, citrus, tropical fruit. Lovely.

Passing Giants Sauvignon Blanc Organic, Marlborough 2021 (£17.49, Boutinot): Asparagus, mango, passionfruit; an elegant Sauvignon to inspire.

Te Mata Cape Crest, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£22.99, Fells): Very intense and concentrated. Lovely acidity and a citrus rapier tang. Akin to a white Bordeaux.

Portugal white wines Symington Family Estates Quinta da Fonte Souto White, Alentejo 2019 (£13.99, Fells): Top drawer.

Fantastic palate composition; great tension, richness.

Esporão Quinta do Ameal Loureiro, Vinho Verde 2020 (£15, Hatch Mansfield): Ripe, well defined and excellent value: quality modern Portuguese white.

Esporão Defesa White, Alentejano 2020 (£12.90, Hatch Mansfield): White peach aromas. Good weight of fruit in the mid palate, with pleasant acidity.

South Africa white wines Gabriëlskloof Bot River Sauvignon Blanc, Cape South Coast 2021 (£13.99, Liberty Wines): Elegant, creamy but zippy: an example of Cape winemaking at its best.

Rascallian The Devonian, Swartland 2019 (£24.99, Propeller): Apples, nuts, honey. Subtle, well balanced and elegant. Real classy Cape white.

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Vergelegen Premium Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2020 (£13.49, Fells): High-quality Chardonnay at a really competitive price, full of fruit and vanilla complexity.

Tokara Reserve Collection Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2021 (£23, ABS Wine Agencies): A full-on wine that hits the taste buds with bags of tropical fruit.

Jordan Nine Yards Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2020 (£36.15, ABS Wine Agencies): Has everything you need from a Chardonnay: intensity, complexity, freshness.

Spain white wines Bodegas Ondarre Valdebaron Blanco, Rioja 2020 (£11.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bright citrus and peach, balanced acidity. Very easy drinking.

Pazo de Señorans Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021 (£19.99, Alliance Wine): Top-drawer Albariño: beautiful combo of fresh, salty peach.

Jean Leon Vinya Gigi, Penedès 2018 (£22.99, Fells): Ripe banana, pineapple, vanilla. Full-bodied with a long fruity finish. Great quality for the price.

Adegas Terra de Asorei Pazo Torrado, Rías Baixas 2021 (£13.99, Daniel Lambert): Powerful and intense nose, well balanced honey and lemon; a saline finish.

Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria, Rioja 2020 (£20, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Baked apple, delightfully rich; great balance and stucture.

USA white wines La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, California 2019 (£26.99, Fells): Fabulous. Well-judged and a whole lotta wine for nigh-on £30.

Wente Vineyards Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc, Livermore Valley, California 2020 (£16.99, Fells): Zingy and zesty; fresh with good aromatics and nice weight.

Marimar Estate La Masia Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, California 2018 (£37.49, Fells): Crème fraiche, sweet fruits and toast. Lovely accomplished wine.

Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay, Central Coast, California 2020 (£16.99, Fells): Almost Viognier-like richness of exotic stone fruit.

Argentina red wines Andeluna Malbec Altitude, Uco Valley, Mendoza, 2019 (£18.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Dark fruit, meaty, herbs, liquorice; silky, very elegant.

Manos Negras Stone Soil Select Malbec, Paraje Altamira 2019 (£16.99, Alliance Wine): Rich and velvety with lovely cocoa hints and great length.

Matias Riccitelli The Apple Doesn’t Fall Far From the Tree Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2020 (£21.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Mellow, balanced and enjoyable now. Crunchy. Brooding with red fruit.

Doña Paula Altitude 1100, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Great balance.

Soft, delightful, easy-drinking. Concentrated.

José Zuccardi Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2017 (£40, Hatch Mansfield): Liquorice, blackcurrant, vanilla, clove, cream, spice, ripe fruit. Great length. Smart.

Ver Sacrum Doña Mencía de los Andes, Uco Valley 2017 (£32.50, Ucopia Wines): Full of juicy, ripe red and blackcurrants; fresh acidity subtle earthiness.

Kaiken Aventura Valle de Canota Malbec, Valle de Canota, Mendoza 2019 (£21.99, Liberty Wines): Rich with chewy dried fruits; winter spice. Lovely tannins.

Bodega Sottano Selección Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza 2020 (£21.99, Vindependents): Pretty, elegant and balanced. Good length and intensity.

Bodega Sottano Selección Malbec, Mendoza 2020 (£18.50, Vindependents): Brambles, coffee, cedar, vanilla, blackberries. Rich, big; seductively smooth.

Bodega Sottano Selección del Enologo Malbec, Mendoza 2019 (£21.99, Vindependents): Fantastic palate; silky, incredible balance. Moreish, delicious.

Casarena Appellation Agrelo Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2019 (£16.49, Condor Wines): Lifted plum and violet; soft, with mulberry and savoury notes.

Benegas Single-Vineyard Malbec, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2018 (£25, Ucopia Wines): Concentrated black fruit. Intense and full bodied.

Bodega Sottano Malbec, Mendoza 2021 (£12.50, Vindependents): Dark forest fruits, decent tannins, well balanced and integrated. Very good value.

Zuccardi Los Olivos Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2020 (£11.60, Hatch Mansfield): Savoury; gentle tannic structure; a poised wine for this price point.

Escorihuela Gascon Organic Vineyards Malbec, Mendoza 2021 (£19.99, RDM Wine Agencies): Delightful; crunchy, fragrant, youthful.

Ver Sacrum GSM, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2018 (£21.50, Ucopia Wines): Crunchy red fruit, rhubarb, blood orange, redcurrants and spice. Unique!

Piattelli Vineyards Tannat, Cafayate 2020 (£15.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Cherry, blackcurrants, tobacco, herbs: evocative, long, juicy. Well made.

Doña Paula Altitude 1350, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lovely ripe red fruit and well-balanced oak. Great length.

Australia red wines Bec Hardy Wines Pertaringa Tipsy Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2018 (£51.99, Propeller): Classy cassis, oak, tobacco; coconut. Bold, polished.

Bellwether Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2015 (£40, Graft): Elegant, juicy, amazingly long finish. Harmonious: top stuff.

Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2018 (£24.99, Vindependents): Ripe, unashamedly new world Pinot Noir; good energy.

Yangarra Estate Noir, McLaren Vale 2019 (£19.99, Boutinot): Soft creamy nose, nice and complex. A mix of bramble, white pepper and spice. Succulent.

Lake Breeze Shiraz Cabernet Bernoota, Langhorne Creek 2016 (£19.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Mint-eucalypt nose; clean, elegant structure.

Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa 2019 £17.99, Fells): Bakewell tart, cherry; nice ripe fruit but with good tension and freshness.

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Highly commended wines Australia red wines Blacksmith Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa 2018 (£22, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Silky mouth feel with sweet, ripe fruit balanced nicely by the acidity. Delicious.

Dalrymple Vineyards Pinot Noir, Tasmania 2020 (£32.99, Fells): Pretty nose, dainty red fruit. Acidity is pert and juicy. Old-school feel – but fun and good.

Kilikanoon Prodigal Grenache, Clare Valley 2018 (£19.50, Mentzendorff): Discreet, restrained style. Very good balance of freshness and ripeness.

Langemil Valley Floor Shiraz, Barossa 2019 (£23.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Very sellable! Lovely plum, cherry, dark chocolate and vanilla with a hint of oak.

Brash Higgins MCC Mataro/Cinsault/Carignan, McLaren Vale 2019 (£24.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): good cut and drive. Nice raspberry; supple tannins.

Flametree Wines Shiraz, Margaret River 2018 (£18.99, Vindependents): Lovely and juicy on the palate, very well balanced; firm yet elegant tannins.

Robert Oatley Signature Series G-20 Grenache, McLaren Vale 2020 (£15.40, Hatch Mansfield): Superripe and rich; turbo charged; plenty of appeal.

Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Shiraz, Hunter Valley 2019 (£19.99, Fells): Very soft and elegant on the palate; a long rich fruit finish. Great wine and a good price.

Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Heathcote Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria 2019 (£19.99, Fells): Good intensity; black cherry; nice bitter twist on the long, satisfying finish.

Irvine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa 2019 (£22.99, Cachet Wines): Powerful fruit with minty, chocolate. Good length. Very good interesting wine.

Irvine Estate Merlot, Eden Valley 2018 (£22.99, Cachet Wines): Classic black fruit on the nose – lovely structure and good length with cedarwood finish.

Willunga 100 McLaren Vale Grenache, McLaren Vale 2020 (£14.99, Liberty Wines): Sappy juicy fruits; complex, creamy palate; dark cherries and cinnamon.

Scotchmans Hill Pinot Noir, Geelong, Victoria 2020 (£29.99, Cachet Wines): Very pale; a hint of orange.

Brown sugar syrup and raspberry Sherbet DipDab.

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Jeanneret Wines The Denis Shiraz, Clare Valley 2018 (£44.99, Vindependents): Richly fruity cassis; restraint on the palate with well-balanced tannins.

Flametree Wines SRS. Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 2019 (£41.99, Vindependents): What a lovely wine! Elegant, fine, long.

Flametree Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Margaret River 2018 (£19.50, Vindependents): Silky palate with rich fruit; chocolatey finish; hints of oak.

Jim Barry Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard Kirribilli, Coonawarra 2018 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Great perfume; lovely texture.

The Good Luck Club Cabernet, Barossa 2020 (£15.99, Boutinot): Fresh ripe cassis with a touch of spice and vanilla. Excellent value for money!

Jeanneret Wines Rank & File Shiraz, Clare Valley 2019 (£17.99, Vindependents): Silky texture, ripe dark fruity spice; good acidity. Lovely style of wine.

Jeanneret Wines Stand & Deliver Shiraz, Clare Valley 2018 (£24.99, Vindependents): Inky dark. Beautiful ripe fruit. Full but soft and balanced. Very enjoyable.

Thorn-Clarke Varietal Collection Barossa Shiraz, Barossa 2018 (£12.99, RDM Wines): Peppercorn and herbs; juicy fruit. Good value with broad appeal.

De Bortoli Wines Deen Vat 184 Master Blend, Australia 2018 (£11.99, North South Wines): Restrained nose, gentle herby dark fruits; accessible; good value.

Wakefield St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley 2017 (£38.99, Louis Latour): Lovely complex aromas; balanced and long: pay the money!

Chile red wines Ventisquero Grey Carmenère, Maipo 2019 (£16.99, North South Wines): Ripe, sweet blackcurrant; smooth, full-bodied, long finish: excellent wine..

Viña Requingua Toro de Piedra Gran Reserva Carménère-Cabernet Sauvignon, Maule 2019 (£13.99, Condor Wines): Wonderful minty fruit; polished.

Sutil Limited Release Syrah, Limarí 2019 (£20, Castelnau Wine Agencies): Serious Syrah: a deep, rich palate combining intense fruit and earthy complexity.

Emiliana Coyam, Colchagua 2019 (£22.49, Boutinot): Herbal, ripe and fresh with seriously intense fruit character. Really expressive and vibrant.

French red wines

Clos de Luz Massal 1945 Carmenère, Almahue Valley, Rapel 2018 (£19.95, Jeroboams Trade): Cherry, blackcurrant, vanilla and clove; nice intensity. Good wine.

Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse Premier Cru Monopole, Burgundy 2016 (£78.99, Fells): Subtle, beautiful juicy, ripe fruit and exquisite length.

Undurraga Cabernet Sauvignon TH, Maule 2018 (£19.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Vanilla, raspberry, honey. Well integrated. Classic Cabernet.

Ferraton Côtes-du-Rhône Samorëns Rouge, Rhône 2020 (£14.99, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Soft, seductive.

Gentle cherry fruit. Good length; smooth.

Errazuriz Aconcagua Alto Carmenère, Aconcagua 2019 (£20.45, Hatch Mansfield): Powerful, dark berry, black fruit with a sweet spice; balanced tannins; rounded.

Château de Montfrin “un coup de dés jamais n’abolira le hasard”, Côte du Rhône 2018 (£16.95, Jeroboams Trade): Nice and ripe, spicy with herbs and dark fruit.

Ventisquero Grey Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley 2019 (£16.99, North South Wines): Beautiful Pinot fragrance: this is a real winner at a fair price.

Domaine Dionysos La Cigalette, Cairanne, Rhône 2017 (£18.99, La Cave de Bruno): Long, peppery, lovely balance. Serious wine for under £20.

Tabalí Pai Pinot Noir, Limarí 2018 (£47.99, Boutinot): Incredibly concentrated and complex but with such a light touch. Elegant, refined and beautifully made.

Château Boutisse Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux 2018 (£28.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Blackcurrant, cedar; lush middle weight. Excellent.

Viña Siegel Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua 2020 (£12.50, Vindependents): Fantastic fruit-forward wine lots of cassis and dark chocolate.

Domaine Remoriquet Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux, Burgundy 2019 (£58, Vindependents): Gloriously pleasurable top-flight Burgundy. Yum!

Viña Siegel 1234 Reserva, Colchagua 2020 (£13.99, Vindependents): Super ripe and rich fruit with a nice herbaceous edge.

Château Maucoil Rouge, Côtes du Rhône 2020 (£13.49, Boutinot): Delightfully clean red-berry fruit; wonderful value for money.

Montes Apalta Outer Limits Vineyard Carignan/ Grenache/Mourvèdre, Apalta 2019 (£23.49, Liberty Wines): Intense and deep, with ripe fruit and spice.

Château Fabre Gasparets Corbières-Boutenac, Languedoc-Roussillon 2018 (£19.99, Third Floor Wines): Heavy spicy style, bold grippy tannins. Fun.

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Highly commended wines French red wines Château de Campuget Syrah 1753 Sans Sulfites, Vin de France 2020 (£14.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Good value, bright dark fruit; blackberry; pepper.

Domaine Serge Laloue Rouge, Sancerre 2020 (£24.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Gorgeous, delicate, detailed; vibrant berry fruit; Pinot earthiness.

M Chapoutier, Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge Sans Sulfites, 2020, Côtes-du-Rhône 2020 (£16.50, Hatch Mansfield): Earthy elderberry; herbaceous; evocative.

Domaine Boutinot Les Coteaux des Schisteaux, Seguret Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, 2019 (£15.49, Boutinot): Serious, structured; punches above price.

Château Crès Ricards Oenothera, Terrasses du Larzac 2020 (£17.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Plums, wild strawberries, dried cranberries; good complexity.

Domaine Lavigne Vieilles Vignes, Saumur-Champigny 2020 (£14.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lovely refreshing Cab Franc: perfect.

Domaine Remoriquet Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Burgundy 2020 (£58, Vindependents): Powdery tannin, ripe plum; packed full of ripe fruit.

Château Haut Barrail Médoc, Bordeaux 2016 (£17.50, Vindependents): Swathes of spicy plum, vanilla and cocoa. Definitely a market for this.

Château de Rhodes Chevalier de Rhodes Rouge, Gaillac 2019 (£14.99, Boutinot): Deep and brooding; the palate explodes into life. Excellent value.

Domaine de la Ville Rouge Crozes-Hermitage Terre d’Eclat, Rhône 2017 (£24.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Drinking well now; game, pepper, truffle.

Château de Nalys Saintes-Pierres de Nalys, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018 (£45.99, Fells): Plump, nicely polished fruit in a Grenache-laden blend.

Domaine Florent Garaudet Monthélie 1er Cru La Taupine, Burgundy 2018 (£44.50, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Fragrant, subtly smoky, deep fruit.

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Domaine Remoriquet Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Allots, Burgundy 2020 (£44.99, Vindependents): Depth, and concentration; good value for the postcode.

Mas Gabinèle Faugères, Languedoc 2019 (£21.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Intense black fruit, leather, pepper. Spicy, earthy: impressive.

Domaine Prieur-Brunet, Santenay Rouge, Burgundy 2017 (£33, Hatch Mansfield): Refreshing and goodvalue Pinot with all the elements in balance.

Terroirs et Talents Brouilly Tradition, Beaujolais 2020 (£17.15, Hatch Mansfield): Super-seductive with rounded dark fruit, lovely balance and real juiciness.

Domaine Dionysos Devèze, Côtes-du-Rhône 2017 (£14.99, La Cave de Bruno): Light ruby; pepper spice.

Jammy, soft, sweet fruit. Light tannins; smooth.

Château Paul Mas Clos des Mures, Languedoc 2020 (£16.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Subtle red cherries, plums, violets, pepper. Very fresh, juicy and drinkable.

Domaine La Sarabande Les Rabasses, Faugères, Languedoc 2018 (£17.99, Vindependents): Dark chocolate with an almost sweet red-fruit profile.

Domaine Belleville Santenay Les Hâtes Rouge, Burgundy 2019 (£33, Vindependents): Wonderful Pinot Noir lift; lovely length and fresh acidity.

E Guigal Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône 2019 (£24.49, Fells): Warm tar and chewing tabacco. Rich, complex, attractively bitter finish; peppery. Still youthful.

Hecht & Bannier Nouvelle Vague Rouge Take Off, Vin de France 2021 (£13.99, Vindependents): Bold fruit, drying spice with balanced tannins and a long finish.

Caves de Juliénas-Chaintré Beaujolais Village Velours de Coteaux, Beaujolais 2020 (£11.99, Vindependents): Rich, ripe, beautiful bright, crunchy fruit; great value.

Calmel & Joseph Les Crus Entre Amis, Pézenas, Languedoc 2019 (£14.93, Daniel Lambert): Rich, forest floor notes; deep and brooding. A bit sexy!

Olivier Cazenave et Château aux Plantes, St-Emilion Grand Cru 2019 (£34.99, Alliance Wine): Meaty; herbal. Balanced, fruit-forward; integrated tannins.

Château Calvimont Graves Red, Bordeaux 2019 (£16.49, Boutinot): Spicy black fruit and minerals with hints of black tea and blackcurrant. Ageworthy.

Arrogant Frog Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£11.25, Domaines Paul Mas): Silky, harmonious, winter-warming crowd-pleaser.

Bouchard Père & Fils Monthélie Domaine, Burgundy 2017 (£29.49, Fells): Juicy, smooth, bright red fruit; attractively lean, mineral. Long and silky to finish.

Calmel & Joseph Les Crus L’Art du Vers, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc 2019 (£14.33, Daniel Lambert): Lovely and rich sweet fruit, cedar, pepper. Very good.

Italy red wines Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa, Barolo 2016 (£88.50, Enotria&Coe): Loaded with ripe, dark, plummy flesh.

Fresh herbs and a lovely fresh grip. Sophisticated feel.

Alpha Zeta V Valpolicella, Veneto 2021 (£11.99, Liberty Wines): Appealing red fruit. A very good example of the style; glorious for the asking price.

Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 (£44.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Impressive, imposing; intense but charming dark fruit.

Georgia red wines

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore, Veneto 2018 (£20.99, Fells): Beautiful!

Great mouth feel; warming, lingering. Good value.

Alazani Winery Qvevri Saperavi Red, Kardenakhi 2019 (£16.95, Richmond Wine Agencies): A grower.

Extremely earthy; a nice balance of acid, tannin, fruit.

Brezza Vigna Santa Rosalia Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2019 (£19.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Nice crunchy mouth feel; lovely balanced acidity.

Germany red wines

Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco, Piedmont 2019 (£34.99, Vindependents): Spicy, leathery; bags of violet. Soft, well balanced. Really good value.

Schnaitmann Lämmler Lemberger Grosses Gewächs Dry, Würrtemberg 2019 (£75.05, ABS Wine Agencies): Super! Perfumed; real intensity and persistence.

Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt Leistadter Herzfeld Spätburgunder, Pfalz 2019 (£36.50, Vindependents): Sophisticated. Richly inviting. Crisp. Good tension.

Schnaitmann Simonroth Lemberger Dry, Würrtemberg 2019 (£32.75, ABS Wine Agencies): Fragrant; pretty.

Intriguing with fine lines and a cranberry zip.

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Tenuta Tignanello, Tuscany 2019 (£39.45, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Great concentration; a joy to taste.

Monviert Schioppettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli 2019 (£29.99, Vindependents): Morello cherry. Lovely weight on the palate; maintains freshness, lightness.

Greece red wines

Marchesi Antinori Le Mortelle Botrosecco, Maremma, Tuscany 2018 (£22.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Complex. Dark and brooding. Utterly delicious.

Gaia Wines Gaia Estate Nemea, Peloponnese 2019 (£36.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bold, rich wine, with hints of earth and mushroom. Spicy; balanced.

Tenuta Frescobaldi Castiglioni, Tuscany 2019 (£24, Enotria&Coe): Summer fruit pudding and cranberry on the nose. A well balanced, complex palate.

Diamantakis Petali Liatiko, Crete 2019 (£14.99, Vindependents): Light body, low tannins, chillable red apple, nectarine, strawberry. Very nice, very sellable!

Tedeschi Capitel Nicaló Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto 2019 (£18.49, Fells): Perfect balance of complexity, tannin and flavour. Lovely finish.

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany 2017 (£28.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Rusty iron, blood oranges. Rustic, challenging: fantastic!

Tormaresca Torcicoda Primitivo, Salento, Puglia 2019 (£21.85, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Deep ruby. Dark, intense fruit, chocolate. Subtle flavour nuances.

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Highly commended wines Italy red wines Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany 2017 (£24.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Grandeur oozes from the glass. Smartly done.

Cà dei Maghi Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2016, Veneto 2016 (£34.99, Vindependents): A luscious yet rustic nose with layers. So silky, so clean-drinking.

Barone Ricasoli Brolio Riserva Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2018 (£32.99, Fells): Blackthorn bush and raspberry; bright, fresh; very enjoyable. A classy wine.

Paolo Leo Salice Salentino Riserva, Puglia 2016 (£12.99, North South Wines): Herbs, liquorice and dark black fruit; very bright acidity; long finish. Character!

Villa Raiano Taurasi, Campania 2016 (£24.99, Third Floor Wines): Lovely cedar wood on the nose, complex damson fruit; good tannin and excellent length.

San Polo Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2019 (£24.99, Liberty Wines): leather, balsamic, game; well balanced mid-weight palate. Fresh. Slight hint of fig on finish.

Cascina Véngore Mompirone Barbera d’Asti Superiore ORG, Piedmont 2019 (£19.99, Vindependents): Moutwatering cherry and red fruit. Very delicious.

Prunotto Barbera Pian Romualdo, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2018 (£26, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Fresh, textured, long sour cherry finish. Great food wine.

San Felice Il Grigio Gran Selezione Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2017 (£30, Third Floor Wines): Smoky aromas; cassis, cranberries; very fruity; vanilla. Lovely.

La Bioca Sterma Nebbiolo d’Alba Superiore, Piedmont 2019 (£16.95, Jeroboams Trade): Accessible Nebbiolo with notes of tea leaf, cherries and blackcurrant.

Marchesi Antinori La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany 2018 (£23, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Strawberry, cherry bakewell; great impact.

Casali del Barone Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Piedmont 2019 (£16, Buckingham Schenk): Juicy and clean with firm ripe tannins and bright forward fruit.

Monviert Martagona Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Colli Orientali del Friuli 2019 (£15.50, Vindependents): Fresh, youthful herbs and cherries.

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Monviert Martagona Schioppettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli 2019 (£18.99, Vindependents): Mint-edged cherry; soft but with pleasant grip; herby finish.

Roccolo Grassi Valpolicella, Veneto 2016 (£33.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Intense stewed black fruit; full-bodied and structured; characterful.

Adria Vini La Bacca Nerello Mascalese, IGT Siciliane 2020 (£8.49, Boutinot): Vibrant and uplifting with wild berry notes and a youthful finish. Great value.

Castel Firmian Teroldego, Trentino-Alto Adige 2019 (£15, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Dry, generous with sensible grip: it’s all about the fresh fruit.

Contesa Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Abruzzo 2019 (£13.49, Boutinot): Friendly tannins, gentle spice: very well made. Would be fantastic with a ragout.

Renato Ratti Ochetti Nebbiolo Langhe, Piedmont 2019 (£22.49, Fells): Enticing jammy notes; spice and oregano; a smooth, rounded palate like a young Pinot.

Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella Satinato, Veneto 2018 (£28.99, Boutinot): Evolution of flavours to an elegant poised finish; clove, cinnamon, cherry.

Fantini Farnese Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane, Abruzzo 2015 (£19.99, Liberty Wines): Cherry, blood orange, dry tannins: a great food wine.

Nicosia Etna Rosso Contrada San Nicolò, Sicily 2018 (£17.99, Boutinot): Refined, elegant, beautiful fruit aromas, herbal notes and a gentle persistent finish.

Librandi Duca San Felice, Crio’, Calabria 2018 (£22, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Beaujolais-like colour and summer fruits. Attractive, appealing, nice acidity.

Alpha Zeta R Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, Veneto 2019 (£16.99, Liberty Wines): Good structure.

Balanced, lots of primary black fruit. Food-friendly.

Montresor Valpolicella Ripasso Capitel della Crosara, Veneto 2017 (£16.49, Boutinot): Juicy lifted fruit, lovely long finish; makes you salivate. Full, vibrant.

Antico Feudo Della Trappola Rosso Toscano, Veneto 2017 (£16.49, Boutinot): Lively upfront fruit mingles with sweet spice and vanilla. Really nice.

Lebanon red wines Château Ka, Fleur de Ka, Bekaa Valley 2007 (£30.99, Alliance Wines): Stewed red fruits, velvety, luscious; a slug of oak, well-balanced tannins. This is delicious.

Seifried Family Winemakers Aotea Pinot Noir, Nelson 2017 (£24.99, Fells): Elegant cherry and violet notes; well-judged oak; lovely fresh herbs.

Portugal red wines

Domaine Des Tourelles Red, Bekaa Valley 2019 (£13.49, Boutinot): Amazingly well balanced, very fresh fruit, high acidity, and a grippy finish.

Poças Símbolo, Douro 2015 (£49.99, Cachet Wines): Damson, lots of sweet baking Christmas spice and forest fruit. Soft, rich texture, fine tannins. Excellent.

Château Oumsiyat Grande Reserve, Mount Lebanon 2018 (£18.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Soft fruit, green herbs, minerality, with chalky texture. Intense.

Symington Family Estates Quinta do Ataide Arco, Douro 2015 (£26.27, Fells): Highly perfumed cherry and chocolate; back note of meaty savoury character.

Domaine des Tourelles Vieilles Vignes Carignan, Bekaa Valley 2019 (£18.99, Boutinot): Fresh red and black fruits; spicy, with an enduring finish.

Quinta do Espinho Grande Reserva Touriga Nacional, Douro 2015 (£29.99, Vindependents): Upfront blueberry; great acidity. Drying tannins in balance.

New Zealand red wines

Symington Family Estates Pombal de Vesuvio, Douro 2018 (£23.93, Fells): A wine that balances modern freshness and typical regional style. Commercial.

Nautilus Southern Valleys Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2017 (£25.99, Fells): Earthy, farmyardy; bramble, spice.

Lots of layers, great length. Really good: would list.

Te Mata Bullnose, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£46.99, Fells): Concentrated blackberry fruit, crushed black pepper. A persistent finish. Well made.

Gladstone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir, Wairarapa 2019 (£24.50, Vindependents): Soaked raisins, spicy currants; chewy red fruit, a touch of toast. Intriguing.

Te Mata Alma, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£32, Fells): Smart and very Burgundian – lots of delightful fruit and silky texture. Bravo!

Two Paddocks Estate Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2020 (£36.99, Fells): Funky, savoury, herbal: almost medicinal. Long, structured: one for the cellar.

Esk Valley River Gravel Merlot / Malbec / Cabernet Sauvignon, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£26.80, Hatch Mansfield): Lovely inviting wine: mocha, black fruit.

Nga Waka Pinot Noir, Wairarapa 2019 (£19.95, Jeroboams Trade): This is great. Pretty nose, dusty and floral. Nice energy. Good Pinot expression.

Saint Clair Pinot Noir Omaka Reserve, Marlborough 2020 (£27.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Harmonious commercial style: would sell very well.

Jackson Estate Gum Emperor, Marlborough 2013 (£31, Gonzalez Byass UK): Orange, tangerine notes. Dark bitter cherry, great length. Good, well-aged wine.

Poças Coroa d’Ouro Tinto, Douro 2019 (£11.99, Cachet Wines): Ripe red cherry and plum, violet, smoky, great minerality; feels like a more expensive wine.

Quinta do Espinho Reserva Red, Douro 2017 (£19.99, Vindependents): Soft berry and damson fruits, like a compote. Peppery; balanced tannins and fruit.

Esporão Defesa Red, Alentejano 2020 (£12.90, Hatch Mansfield): Vibrant, vivacious, with lively black and red fruit. Easy to appreciate; a real crowd-pleaser.

Rui Madeira Pedra Escrita, Douro 2018 (£23.50, Raymond Reynolds): Good balance between freshness, elegance and ripeness; easy-going style.

Poças Fora da Série Vinho da Roga, Douro 2019 (£27.99, Cachet Wines): Pure, precise, lithe and refreshing – this feels exciting for the region.

Symington Family Estates Quinta do Ataide, Douro 2019 (£15.79, Fells): Sweet berry fruit; fragrant; a bundle of spice; elegant.

Herdade do Rocim Indígena, Alentejo 2019 (£19.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Exciting from the second the cork is pulled. Fantastic inviting nose.

Quinta da Alorna Touriga Nacional, Tejo 2019 (£11.99, Alliance Wine): Dark brooding fruit; zippy freshness. A lot of wine for your money. One for barbecues.

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Highly commended wines Portugal red wines Aliança Dão, Dão 2017 (£8.99, Boutinot): Concentrated fruit. Plum and black cherry. Almost Zinfandel-like.

Well made and great value.

Zevenwacht The Tin Mine Red, Stellenbosch 2019 (£14.05, ABS Wine Agencies): Intense on the nose, baking spices and fresh cherry fruit. Lingering finish.

Spain red wines

Esporão Reserva Red Organic, Alentejo 2019 (£21.50, Hatch Mansfield): Complexity, layers of flavour, lingering finish. Robust and juicy.

Viñas del Vero Secastilla Garnacha, Somontano, Aragon 2017 (£13.75, Gonzalez Byass): Raspberry, dark cherry; good alternative to premium Côtes du Rhône.

South Africa red wines

Mas Blanch i Jové Saó Abrivat, Les Garrigues, Costers del Segre 2019 (£18.50, Vindependents): Lovely dark cherry/blackberry; herbs, cedar; delicious complexity.

Jordan The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2020 (£19.75, ABS Wine Agencies): Fruit-driven, pepper, vanilla; soft tannins, good length.

Anthonij Rupert Wyne Optima, Western Cape 2018 (£22.99, Bancroft Wines): Meaty, black pepper, ripe black plum, graphite. Soft, velvety, grainy tannins.

Tokara Reserve Collection Syrah, Stellenbosch 2018 (£29.90, ABS Wine Agencies): Menthol, eucalyptus, bramble; long finish, good tannin structure.

Vergelegen Premium Shiraz, Stellenbosch 2018 (£13.49, Fells): More delicate than one would imagine. Good, approachable young Syrah.

Holden Manz Big G, Franschhoek 2017 (£29.50, Vindependents): Mocha, blackberry. Good honest blend. Enjoy near the log fire with a good book.

The Mentors Canvas, Coastal Region 2019 (£18.99, North South Wines): Earthy with dark fruits and plum notes – smoky finish. Very good.

Holden Manz Visionaire, Franschoek 2017 (£19.99, Vindependents): Peppery and chocolatey – Syrah! A crowd pleaser. Savoury juicy fruit bomb.

Iona Pinot Noir, Elgin 2018 (£23.99, Alliance Wine): Fresh raspberry with a touch of smoky game and leather. Well balanced and complex.

Beronia 198 Barricas Reserva, Rioja 2011 (£29, Gonzalez Byass UK): Soft, creamy. Complex palate with red fruits; some spice. Hint of dark fruit flavours.

Dehesa La Granja, Zamora 2018 (£14.99, RDM): Perfumed, violet, tar, liquorice. Fine-grained tannins, full mouth feel, vanilla and cream, baked black fruit.

Bodegas Epifanio Rivera Erial Tinto, Ribera del Duero 2019 (£18.95, Jeroboams Trade): Ripe red and black fruit, a little spiciness, delicate vanilla, long finish.

Costers del Priorat Pissares Tinto, Priorat 2019 (£20.95, Jeroboams Trade): Floral fragrance; jam, pepper: powerful wine, but great balance.

Marco Abella Mas Mallola 2019, Priorat 2019 (£27.50, Vindependents): Great acidity; mixed berry jam; roses; lots going on. Freshness and power.

CVNE Asúa Crianza, Rioja 2018 (£12.25, Hatch Mansfield): Absolutely delicious with smoky mocha and vanilla; silky smooth; superb value.

CVNE Bela Arano Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2019 (£24.80, Hatch Mansfield): Rich, bold, blackberry, liquorice, smooth, beautiful oak balance, long finish.

Jordan Black Magic Merlot, Stellenbosch 2020 (£19.75, ABS Wine Agencies): Excellent balance, nice structure with lots of ripe red fruit and a kick of spice.

Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2019 (£19.99, Third Floor Wines): Light gamey notes. Violet really comes out on palate. Extremely pleasant.

Raats Family Wines Dolomite Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch 2019 (£13.99, Alliance Wine): Tobacco, cedar, soft tannins; excellent wine for the price.

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VERGELEGEN VINEYARDS

Badiola Rioja Alavesa Las Parcelas, Rioja 2019 (£21.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bright red fruit, fresh, textured, orange peel, long finish. Delightful!

Bodegas Ontañon Queirón Rioja Mi Lugar Vino de Quel, Rioja 2018 (£24.99, Boutinot): Juicy, generous and complex. A ripe-fruited, red-berried glass of joy!

Mont Rubi Serres Velle Garnacha Negra, Penedès 2020 (£29.95, Jeroboams Trade): Smoky nose, new oak, white pepper, damson fruit: warming wine.

Bodegas Borsao Cabriola by Borsao, Campo de Borja 2017 (£17.49, Boutinot): Black berries, black cherry, herbs; savoury, with a nice tapenade finish.

Velvety Wines Velvet, Ribera del Duero 2018 (£19.50, Raymond Reynolds): Black and red fruit, grippy tannins, great balance, nice acidity; great finish.

Marco Abella Clos Abella, Priorat 2016 (£46.50, Vindependents): Richness and concentration of fruit.

Cocoa and blackberry on the lengthy finish.

Bodegas Resalte de Peñafiel Crianza Origen, Ribera del Duero 2018 (£24.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Intense fruity nose, good fruit; smooth; well balanced.

Bodegas San Alejandro Garnacha Baltasar Viñas Viejas Calatayud, Calatayud 2018 (£17.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lustrous, evocative Garnacha.

Bodegas Martinez Lacuesta Campeador Gran Reserva 2012, Rioja 2012 (£32.50, Vindependents): Tobacco and leather nose, spiced forest fruit, a hint of vanilla.

Viña Mayor Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2018 (£17.99, North South Wines): Good bold fruit, a little spice, blackcurrant, smooth tannin, nicely balanced.

deAlto La Planta Magica Garnacha Viñas Viejas, Rioja 2019 (£25.99, Alliance Wine): Soft black fruit, prunes and white pepper. Juicy finish. Mineral. Works well.

Clea Reserva, Ribera del Duero 2016 (£17.99, Vindependents): Rich fruit; farmyard notes; gentle spice; great balance of tannin, acidity, fruit and body.

Palacio del Camino Real Rioja Crianza, Rioja 2018 (£10.99, Vindependents): Juicy, fruit forward, easygoing. Just what you want from entry-level Rioja.

Cantariña Vinos de Familia Viña de Los Pinos, Bierzo 2017 (£24.99, Raymond Reynolds): Red apple skin and redcurrants. Lovely, rounded; showing maturity nicely.

Conde Valdemar Rioja Reserva, Rioja 2012 (£18.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Smoke, spice, black cherry, some concentration and depth.

La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha, Somontano, Aragon 2019 (£13.75, Gonzalez Byass UK): Cooked berries and dates. Some florality. Lots of fruit. Ripe and sweet.

Dominio Fournier, Ribera del Duero 2019 (£28, Gonzalez Byass UK): What a charmer! Sweet and easy to love. Nice bright feel. Good gentle structure.

Bodegas Muerza Tempranillo, Rioja 2020 (£9.99, Cachet Wines): With its lovely crunchy berry fruit, this is an easygoing Rioja; perfect for parties.

Bodegas Amaren Selección de Viñedos, Rioja 2019 (£21.99, Alliance Wine): Gorgeous purity of fruit. What new-wave Rioja should be like.

Uruguay red wines

Perelada, 5 Finques Reserva, Empordà 2016 (£17.49, Alliance Wine): Huge soaring Porty aromas with meaty smoke. Well-made in a new world style.

Viña Progreso Overground Sangiovese, Canelones 2018 (£21.50, Ucopia Wines): Ripe cherry, grippy tannins. Very youthful. Satisfying and interesting.

USA red wines

Creu Celta, Priorat 2018 (£22.99, Direct Wine Shipments): Lots of lovely concentrated ripe sweet berry fruit. Well integrated and balanced.

Wente Vineyards Beyer Ranch Zinfandel, Livermore Valley, California 2019 (£16.99, Fells): Lots of depth, lots going on. Would sell lots!

Cuevas de Arom Arom Calatayud Garnacha, Calatayud, Aragon 2018 (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Bright, light, clean and fresh; fruity and approachable.

Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, California 2018 (£29.99, Fells): Decadant rich Pinot Noir. Amazing fruit. Herbs and white pepper.

Bodegas Altolandon Mil Historias Bobal, Manchuela 2019 (£12.99, Alliance Wine): Bright berries from nose to palate. Voluptuous, lively, clean – wonderful.

Edmeades Zinfandel, Mendocino, California 2018 (£21.99, Fells): Rich fruit, long finish. A big juicy wine, but still very fresh; a touch of chocolate and spice.

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Highly commended wines USA red wines Wente Vineyards Wetmore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Livermore Valley, California 2018 (£22.49, Fells): Blackcurrant, cloves, juicy acidity, balanced tannin.

Italy rosé wines Produttori di Manduria Aka Primitvo Rosato, Puglia 2020 (£14.49, Alliance Wine): Deep, almost amber colour. Primitivo character really shines through.

Portugal orange wines

Domaine Carneros Avant Garde Pinot Noir, Carneros, California 2020 (£27.70, Hatch Mansfield): Red sour cherry, fresh red fruit, balanced and elegant finish.

Poças Fora da Série Orange, Douro 2020 (£27.99, Cachet Wines): A cracking wine with hints of orange and peach; on the palate, a sensation of dried fruits.

La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir, Monterey, California 2019 (£25.99, Fells): Lovely rich fruit. Powerful Pinot, classically American style. Nicely tart finish.

Italian dessert and fortified wines

Mount Brave Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2017 (£110, Fells): Classy, balanced, polished, top-end Napa Cabernet.

Wente Vineyards Sandstone Merlot, Livermore Valley, California (£16.99, Fells): Big cedar spices, candied stewed fruit. Menthol, plummy, highly enjoyable.

Australia rosé wines The Hedonist Rosé, McLaren Vale 2021 (£19, ABS Wine Agencies): Lovely combination of red fruits, savouriness, spices, herbal touches and cream.

Curatolo Arini Marsala Superiore Riserva, Marsala, Sicily (£22.99, Liberty Wines): Incredible umami flavours; dried fruit and nuts; delicious freshness.

Portugal dessert and fortified wines Blandy’s 10 Year Old Bual (Med Rich), Madeira NV (£22.49, Fells): Good high acidity, luscious sweet flavour. Really warming, pleasing and balanced.

Blandy’s 10 Year Old Verdelho (Med Dry), Madeira NV (£22.49, Fells): Pronounced caramel, fig, orange marmalade, coffee. Sweet with a toasty element.

France rosé wines

Ferreira Dona Antónia 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro NV (£43.99, Liberty Wines): Dried fruits and spice; loads of walnuts! Very complex and intriguing.

Cave de la Bouquette Sancerre Rosé, Loire 2020 (£22.99, La Cave de Bruno): Deep salmon colour, dry, flavoursome, hedegrow berries. A foodie wine.

Poças Colheita Port, Douro 1996 (£39.99, Cachet Wines): Very creamy, luxuriously silky palate; dried fruits dusted with vanilla dipped in bubbling toffee.

Minuty Prestige Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2021 (£19.99, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Ripe summery red berry fruit; lovely creamy character; a bit of weight.

Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro NV (£24.03, Fells): Good balance of fruit, tannin, acidity and wood.

Pleasant and long finish. Figs, nuts, and cinnamon.

Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles Bandol Rosé, Bandol, Provence 2020 (£19.99, Boutinot): Superb mouth feel, complex, composed; class. Exquisitely balanced.

Ferreira Dona Antonia 10 Year Old Whie Port, Douro NV (£16.99, Liberty Wines): Baking spices, nuts, marmalade ice-cream. Well-rounded, long. Very nice.

Le Moulin de la Roque, Roque Star, Côtes de Provence 2020 (£17.99, La Cave de Bruno): Hints of ginger, ripe apple, pear. Very smooth. Broad appeal. FAB, FAB, FAB!

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Spain dessert and fortified wines Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX, Montilla-Moriles 2019 (£17, Winetraders): Surprisingly light in colour, hugely viscous, but decadant and delicious. Lovely caramel.

Gonzalez Byass Tres Palmas Fino, Jerez 2021 (£50, Gonzalez Byass UK): Oak hints, oranges; dried nuts and fruit; powerful; salinity; creamy texture; long.

Gonzalez Byass Dos Palmas Fino, Jerez 2021 (£23, Gonzalez Byass UK): Nutty, slightly floral; chalky.

Butter, floral flavours. Good salinity; very long finish.

Gonzalez Byass Una Palma Fino, Jerez 2021 (£16.50, Gonzalez Byass): Citrus and saltiness. Bone dry with a long precise finish. Great introduction to fino.

Valdespino Amontillado Tio Diego Pago de Macharnudo, Jerez NV (£24.99, Liberty Wines): Dark, rich and full of umami. A truly wonderful drop.

Gonzalez Byass Vinas AB Amontillado, Jerez NV (£17.50, Gonzalez Byass UK): Rich golden colour with hints of yeast. Nutty aroma, salted caramel finish.

Gonzalez Byass Leonor Palo Cortado, Jerez NV (£19.50, Gonzalez Byass UK): Lovely caramel palate; dry, persistent. Well balanced. A sherry-lovers’ wine.

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Leading countries 2022

Country

Top 100 placings

Highly Commended

Points

1

France

35

87

192

2

Italy

23

54

123

3

Australia

12

44

80

4

Spain

6

46

52

5

Portugal

7

24

45

6

South Africa

9

17

44

7

Argentina

3

20

29

8

Chile

3

15

24

9

New Zealand

0

24

24

10

USA

0

12

12

Methodology Three points were awarded for a Top 100 place, and one point for each Highly Commended placing.

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THE WINE MERCHANT TOP 100

Leading suppliers 2022

Country

Top 100 placings

Highly Commended

Points

1

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

17

48

99

2

Fells

14

53

95

3

Vindependents

15

49

94

4

Hatch Mansfield

4

30

42

5

Alliance Wine

8

13

37

6

Boutinot

4

25

37

7

Liberty Wines

4

21

33

8

Berkmann Wine Cellars

3

17

26

9

Cachet Wines

3

13

22

10

Jeroboams Trade

3

12

21

Methodology Three points were awarded for a Top 100 place, and one point for each Highly Commended placing.

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