The Wine Merchant issue 153

THE WINE MERCHANT. An independent magazine for independent retailers

Issue 153, January 2026

Dog of the month: Bubbles Butlers Wine Cellar, Brighton

Boutinot buys independent wine shop in Lake District Purchase of Windermere Wines preserves a treasured local business – but does not signal wider retail ambitions

B

outinot has bought the retail

been Windermere Wines’s major supplier.

“We have always valued our relationship

business of one of its customers –

A Boutinot spokesperson emphasised

with Boutinot, and I’m delighted they are

but says it has no ambitions to take

that the deal did not mean the company

guiding it to its next exciting stage,” Harris

had wider ambitions in the retail sector.

says.

on any more shops.

The decision to buy Windermere Wines

“We’ve facilitated somebody leaving

Deb Brooks, Boutinot head of marketing,

in the Lake District was prompted by

a company and retiring who has always

says: “Being a Windermere lass for the

the retirement of longstanding Boutinot

been a very good customer for us,” the

past 20 years, and a Boutinot one for over

customer Jo Harris, who had managed the

spokesperson said. “We’re not dealing with

35, it was a no-brainer to keep open the

shop for 25 years.

any other merchants in the Lake District,

doors of a valued independent customer

so we’re not treading on anybody’s toes.”

and embrace the ups and downs of actually

It’s understood that a second major supplier to the independent trade was also

Jo Harris is the daughter of Jim and Elaine Ratcliffe, who started the business in

lost out to Boutinot, which has traditionally

1980 and once had a branch in Ambleside.

running an indie.”

Windermere Wine Stores will continue to trade under its existing name.

Naomi Vance

interested in taking on the business but

Carmen Street Wine in Bristol felt that its restaurant was slightly cramping the style of its retail trade. So now it's created a standalone wine shop and bar in a neighbouring unit. Full story on page 4.

Inside this month 4 comings & Goings Indies opening, indies expanding, indies doing exciting things

GRAHAM HOLTER Editorial No sign of Bill Clinton on my California return

16 tried and tested Eight wines that caught our attention, for a variety of reasons

17 bright ideas Things to do with a horse box that don’t involve horses

24 merchant profile A visit to The Grape to Glass in Rhos-on-Sea, north Wales

energies are being sorely tested by climate

(in 1995), and just as much when I

change, politics and market forces. They

returned for another wine trip a couple

make excellent hosts: their generosity, and

of years later. But, a cynic might argue,

hospitality, remains unrivalled.

evidently not enough to head that way

and Sonoma, and the surrounding

A

urban infrastructure, didn’t look quite

usually, when other sectors of the wine

as I remembered them. Which is hardly

trade are being battered by the storm,

surprising: the last time I was in this neck

indies somehow continue to sail.

again for another three decades.

The Old Vine Conference provided that opportunity in November. Napa

34 the ideas factory We talk to Top Cuvée, one of the most creative-minded indies

40 a darker shade of pink Our tasting panel puts some nonProvençal rosé through its paces

46 focus on australia Our annual look at some of the most interesting wines and winemakers

68 make a date February is coming which means tasting season is officially here

79 Q&A: dan belmont The Good Wine Good People boss is called in for interrogation

I

loved California the first time I visited

lmost everyone connected with the wine industry is looking towards the independent trade for reasons

to be cheerful. You can understand why:

of the woods, Clinton was president, the

Our annual Survey of Independents

internet didn’t really exist, and the photos

helps us understand exactly what’s going

I took had to be developed by a chemist.

on, and as always we’re asking readers to

Places change over the course of 30 years.

spend 15 or 20 minutes going through this

California’s wine growers don’t seem so

year’s questions, which you can access at

different, though. Touring the vineyards

winemerchantmag.com.

in their company, and listening to their

As regular readers know, the results we

stories over lunches and dinners, you’re

collate from the survey creates a resource

struck by just how much they love, and

that all of us can tap into. We can see how

understand, their land.

market trends have been evolving, how

There’s plenty of opulence and grandeur,

sales are performing, how confidence is

if you’re looking for it. But really, this is

rising or falling, how hybrids are gaining

a community of farmers. Families whose

momentum and what’s happening with

connections run deep, over several

online sales … it’s a long list.

generations, with shared triumphs and failures. People whose good humour and

We’re grateful to everyone who takes the time to take part.

THE WINE MERCHANT MAGAZINE winemerchantmag.com 01323 871836 Instagram/Bluesky: @WineMerchantMag Unit 52 Newhaven Enterprise Centre, Denton Island, Newhaven, East Sussex BN9 9BA Editor and Publisher: Graham Holter graham@winemerchantmag.com Assistant Editor: Claire Harries claire@winemerchantmag.com Reporter: Jacob Stokes jacob@winemerchantmag.com Advertising: Sarah Hunnisett sarah@winemerchantmag.com Accounts: Naomi Young naomi@winemerchantmag.com Admin and reader liaison: Charlotte Gingell charlotte@winemerchantmag.com The Wine Merchant is circulated to the owners of the UK’s 1,054 specialist independent wine shops.

Produced in Sussex by East Print. © Graham Holter Ltd 2026 Registered in England: No 6441762 VAT 943 8771 82

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 2

Better wine focus in next-door unit

can hold tastings around it and still keep the bar open,” says Coram.

“I’d like it to be a place where you might

Why stick with just one shop?

come down on a Saturday, have a bit of lunch – some small plates in the wine bar –

There’s been a burst of activity at

Bristol’s Carmen Street Wine, which

sit at the bar, have a glass of wine, and then

Once Upon a Vine, with two new

opened in 2024, has extended and now

peruse the shop and take a bottle away

shop openings. Owner Simon Cocks,

has a dedicated retail space.

with you.

who launched the original store in

He started with a restaurant, but owner

“We’re also retailing jars of olives, tinned

Horsforth, Leeds, in 2018 opened a

Giles Coram is now leaning more into the

sardines, crisps – what we call wine snacks.

site in Wetherby in November and a

wine side of things. “We opened Caper &

We are surrounded by lovely delis and

Headingley branch is also in the works.

Cure about six years ago,” he says. “When

other food places, so we don’t want to tread

a new development with residential and

on their toes, but offer the opportunity to

second one – it’s twice as much work for

commercial units was built behind the

pick up a little snack as you take your wine

not twice the money,’” Cocks says. “It’s so

restaurant they offered us a small unit.

away.”

easy to be negative and think things are

It was set back from the road but had

Coram is direct importing and working

“Lots of people said to me, ‘don't open a

too difficult, and why take the risk? But

quite a lot of outside seating. We took that

with producers in Madrid and Perpignan

I’ve got a good concept and I’ve found good

and launched Carmen Street Wine and it

and has his sights set on northern Italy.

sites in good places. It should work – I’ve

allowed me to expand the wine list.

“The idea was always to have a bit of

“We don't want to take that [wholesale] on as a major business, but it’s something

just got to make it work. Let’s be positive about these things.”

retail as well as on-sales. But it was pretty

that I’ve wanted to do for a long, long

small and it didn’t quite have that retail feel

time,” he says. “I’ve always loved the idea of

little tricky as the unit is “slap bang in the

for a customer to come in and realise there

travelling around, meeting with people and

middle of a cumulative impact protection

were off-sales as well.”

making connections.

zone” due to the Otley Run, the pub crawl

The opportunity arose to take the

“I’m working with a very wonderful,

Licensing for Headingley proved to be a

that attracts thousands of students, stags

adjacent unit to create a multi-functioning

talented team of people, including Holly

space and so, in December, Carmen Street

[Purnell-Swan] who does the wine buying

“There’s a big backlash from residents

Wine become Carmen Street Wine Bar &

with me. And I can leave the food to my

about antisocial behaviour, so it was a ‘no’

Bottle Shop.

and hens.

wonderful head chef, Matthew [Grove],

to new licences,” explains Cocks. “But I

“We’ve got shelving which can hold

who also looks after the food in the wine

managed to persuade the locals that we’d

about 600 bottles, and we’ve got a lovely

bar. It means that I can do things now like

be a benefit.

four-metre table in the middle of the shop

drive abroad and meet wonderful people

where we can showcase products, or we

and import their wine.”

“Lots of them have been to the shop in Horsforth and they loved it, so we got

Josh Campbell

quite a lot of support. We had maybe two objections from people who were just absolutely adamant they don’t want any more licences – they didn't have any problem with what we were planning, but they said the line had to be drawn somewhere. Fortunately, the licensing board saw it differently.”

All three sites will follow the same hybrid model. At Horsforth the split is 65%-35% in favour of retail, but there are notable times when the on-trade really comes to the fore. “If you walk past on a Saturday afternoon or Saturday evening, it looks like a bar – every seat is taken,” says Carmen Street Wine in Bristol is a spin-off from the Caper & Cure restaurant

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 4

Cocks.

Stainton ‘closing on our own terms’ After four decades of trading, Stainton Wines in Kendal, Cumbria, will close its doors at the end of next month.

Chris Leather, who is a joint shareholder along with Frank Stainton, explains that with Frank recently celebrating his 80th birthday, they felt the time was right to “hang up our corkscrews”.

At one point the business was direct importing around 70% of its stock. “We’re a traditional wine merchants,” says Leather.

“We have our own little patch, and

The Stainton team, from left: Chris Leather, Hugh Tyson, Jane Boothroyd and Tommy Wall

we’re quite happy with that. Luckily, it’s a nice patch with lots of hotels and top restaurants in it. Our wholesale is a good 85% I would guess.

“The shop’s good. We’ve got regular clientele, but we’re not on a high street; we’re slightly out of sight. But trying to

“We’ve been through ups and downs and seen the cycles and I just think it’s going to be a tough next cycle before it starts going upwards,” says Leather.

“Brexit really stymied things, with all

Eastbourne indies are on the move Levels, a wine bar and shop in

be a high street presence, like Majestic

the extra paperwork and nonsense. I

Eastbourne, is looking to relocate to a

or something, and the money you have to

think these are the same things everyone

new site within the town. Owner Hardy

spend to do that – it’s never been worth it

would complain about: the rise in National

Ovaisi, who also owns Cru, a nearby

to us.

Insurance, all that sort of stuff. Living wage

restaurant with a wine retail element,

doesn’t affect us so much, but it affects our

has recently opened a second eaterie,

guests at one of the hotels we supply and

customers. If you’re employing someone to

Shuck.

if they’ve enjoyed a particular wine that

wash up for £15 an hour, it doesn’t add up,

maybe only one or two other people have

does it?

“A lot of our private customers have been

Another Eastbourne indie, Barley Sugar, which offers antiques and deli items

in the country, they then become private

“We would never sign up to the no and

alongside its wine bottles, will shortly

customers. We’ve never really analysed it.

low thing, never in a million years. When

be closing and the premises is listed on

“We were keeping our powder dry

we were sort of in our pomp, I guess in

Rightmove to let or for sale as a freehold.

regarding closing,” he continues. “We’re

the 90s to the 2010s, wine was the drink

Owner Lee Venables says: “The shop has

doing it on our own terms. We’ve given

of choice, even for people who weren’t

been a great success over the last 10 years,

our trade customers two months’ notice

knowledgeable or interested in wine. It

but we have kids leaving the nest so have

so they can get into gear and find another

was like the social drink of choice.

decided to move on to pastures new and

supplier and I will be in the shop probably

“If you’re a specialist wine merchant

see a bit more of the world.

until the end of February to sell off the

that side of it has gone, because people

“Artisan food, wine and antiques have

remaining stock.

are drinking cocktails or the no and low

allowed us to really follow our passions

options.

and, strange as it seems, it definitely

“We own the building, so if anyone is thinking of expanding into the Lake District

“Maybe we’re older and more cynical, but

appeals to the vast mix of customers we

with an industrial warehouse, by all means

we’re definitely spending less time talking

attract, as well as giving us three bites at

give us a shout!”

about wine and more time chasing money,

the cherry. I think if we’d only had the one

In almost 42 years of working in the

chasing suppliers, chasing everything. So

thing running it would have been much

wine trade, what changes have been the

you tend to end up losing the enjoyment,

more difficult and we probably wouldn't

most impactful for Stainton Wines?

which is what it’s all about.”

have lasted so long and done so well.”

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 6

COMING DOWN THE LINE St Ives continues a wine tradition

and the Champagne is bought directly from Billecart-Salmon.

“We had a sell-out event on our first evening doing a proper tasting,” he adds.

October saw the opening of Broadway

“We have a middle cellar that we’ve set up

Cellars in the building that was

a tasting room in. To have suppliers and

previously home to J Wadsworth in St

winemakers come and taste with us in an

Ives, Cambridgeshire.

old cellar of a building that’s been here for

The Wadsworth family, who had been

over 100 years is fantastic.”

the town’s wine merchants for 150 years,

The capacity is 32 for “a focused tasting

are now the supportive landlords of a new

with cheese and charcuterie boards”, but

wine business.

McFarlane has plans for larger events too.

James McFarlane, the owner of The

“We’ll probably do four pour events a year,”

Pheasant at Keyston and The Elm at Abbots

he says. “We’ll close the whole place and

Ripton, is working with Jack Baldock

have about 100 wines on show. You grab a

who, as the general manager at Broadway

glass and go around a big table on the day,

Cellars, will oversee the wine range across

and it’s a chance to sample a huge range of

all three sites.

brilliant bottles in an informal atmosphere.

McFarlane says: “Jack will be putting his name to the wine buying and curating

We’ll sell about 120 tickets for that.”

And as for the landlord? “We’ve

the lists from the selection at Broadway

discussed stuff with the Wadsworth family

Cellars. We’ll be getting involved in wine

all the way through,” says McFarlane.

across our pubs and create a bit of a wine

“They’ve been an integral part of what

culture among the three teams.

we’ve decided to do here. We invited the

“We’ve got all our products online and

family down for the opening night, and it

we’re going to ship nationwide and we

was quite an emotional, surreal thing. They

hope to wholesale to local businesses in

felt really proud of what we’ve done in the

the community.”

building. We’ve brought it back to life and

McFarlane says the core range comes

as a nod to the heritage we’re going to have

from Liberty, Thorman Hunt, Dreyfus

some memorabilia around the shop and

Ashby, Berkmann and Hatch Mansfield,

the bar from the original Wadsworth days.”

Hot topics that could impact independent wine merchants

By WSTA chief executive

Miles Beale

Challenges, and hopes, for 2026 I’m certainly glad see the back of 2025.

Trading conditions have been universally tough – sales volumes are down on 2024 for all alcohol categories, with spirit sales hit the hardest. And it’s not just last February’s duty increases that have forced prices up: increases to the national minimum wage and employer’s National Insurance contributions have all added to the costs of running a business made even tougher by April’s cut in business rates relief and the introduction of EPR. So what lies ahead in 2026? There are tentative signs that the economy might be picking up. Inflation looks to be falling, which should mean further interest cuts over the course of the next 12 months which I hope will lead to a positive turnaround in consumer sentiment. Frustratingly, the government seems to be doing all it can to undermine any emergence of business or consumer confidence. Duty rises on February 1 won’t help keep prices down and will do little to lighten the darkest month. Hot on the heels of those duty increases will come the changes to business rates in April. The Covid-related rate relief for retail, leisure and hospitality businesses will end to be replaced by a new business rates system.

And that’s not all. There’s further changes to EPR with the introduction of modulated fees, and the as-yet unresolved issue of how to ensure hospitality businesses don’t pay twice for the costs of collection and recycling of packaging waste. 2026 will also be a critical year for developing the planned Deposit & Return Schemes in England, Scotland and Northern Ireland if the October 2027 start date is to be met. Plans for a DRS scheme in Wales (to include glass containers) are currently being developed although seem impossible to implement in their current form. And there are potential labelling changes coming down the line as set out in the Government’s 10 Year Health Plan.

All of which means that the voice of business must be heard across all governments of the UK – the WSTA is uniquely placed to be that voice. 2026 will certainly be a challenging year – but here’s to it. All the best for 2026.

Find out more at wsta.co.uk The Wadsworth family sold wine from the premises for 150 years

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 7

We are delighted to invite Independent Wine Retailers to our

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THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 8

Bacchus score and do a rolling thing where, if someone beats that, they get a free bottle of wine.”

Stoke Newington already does quite well for wine shops with a couple just a stone’s throw away from Charlie’s. “The reality is in London that you’re never far away from people selling wines and beers,” Young says.

“I love Shrine to the Vine [which opened recently nearby in the premises previously owned by Made in Little France] and there’s The Little Wine Shop around the corner – it’s a very well-established business and he does a lot of importing and wholesaling.

“I think there’s definitely room for

Water, water everywhere

Contrasting water-related problems for two indies in the run-up to Christmas.

In Monmouth, Storm Claudia caused the Wye to burst its banks and flood homes and shops including Tom Innes’s Fingal-Rock (pictured). “I was in the middle of the flood, under two feet of water. The shop is a mess,” Tom reports.

In Tunbridge Wells, the issue wasn’t too much water, but a lack of it, thanks to a South East Water cock-up. The Secret Cellar was without supplies for five days, but manager Neale Tyler says it was business as usual. “Customers don’t shop with us just because we have a toilet,” he says, “and we don’t drink tap water anyway. We stick to coffee.”

all of us. There are so many incredible Pac-Man, Pinot Noir and posh crisps

Vinoteca founder reverts to retail

independent wine merchants that are also selling beers and spirits and this is just our take on it.

“I’ve got a very clear idea of what I want to do and I think I’ve worked for long enough in the business to know it’s about

Charlie’s Drinks Store opened in Stoke

breaking down those barriers and making

Newington, London, in November.

it easy for people to come in and just find

Owner Charlie Young has opted for

something that they like.”

a pure retail model, an interesting

Alongside the wines and spirits there are

decision given his previous venture,

around 200 beers as well as snacks both

Vinoteca, was one of the original hybrids.

from the more bougie end of the scale, such

“I want this to be a really good retail

as Brets crisps, and the more retro “guilty

experience,” says Young. “I want it to

pleasures” of Scampi Fries and Yorkies. No

be very interactive, very friendly and

and low-alcohol drinks are also playing an

encourage people to come in and have a

integral part.

wander or a chat.

“In the back of the shop there’s a table

“I think it’s quite important to frame these no and low drinks in a way that isn’t

with lots of paper and pens, paints and

just black or white, as in either you’re

a chalkboard on the wall so kids can just

drinking or you’re not drinking, and if

have a doodle. I know from experience

you’re not drinking, these are the ‘lesser’

that often people with small children are

options,” says Young who believes in the

terrified that their kids are going to knock

idea that “these drinks are great in their

something over, so there’s a look of relief

own right, and they just happen to have no

on their faces if they can plonk their kids

alcohol”.

down with some colouring for 20 minutes while they have a browse.”

There’s even a Pac-Man machine. “That’s actually going down really well with the

Young is particularly impressed by the category’s Moderato, Jörg Geiger, Zeno and Wild Idol wines.

“They’re just really good. I think they’ve

adults,” says Young, “and I’m thinking of

got it right, texturally, flavour wise and

getting people to register their highest

price wise,” he says.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 9

Lightbulb moment in Lodi

Times aren’t easy for California’s vignerons, with around 40,000 acres of vineyards being ripped out in the past year or so and many more plots being abandoned because the numbers are no longer adding up. But grapes aren’t the only crop that growers can monetise.

At the Old Vine Conference, Dr Stephanie Bolton of the Lodi Winegrape Commission said: “There’s a whole world of people who like to put broken arms of vines into their aquariums for their snakes. I made some centrepieces for dinner out of old vine arms. I can very easily sell these for $100 apiece.”

There’s even more money to be made out of tumbleweed. “If you add a light bulb and paint it with some fireproof spray, you can sell that for $2,800 as a chandelier,” she revealed.

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THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 10

Beau Constantia

Understanding Blending: The Art of Balance

by Rob MacCulloch MW

Head Winemaker at Hattingley Valley Wines

was considering legal action over No credit for new who an unpaid invoice, says it had taken six Vineking business months to get paid a few years ago and at that point the credit line was almost cut.

The Vineking, one of the independent

“The overwhelming point that I would

trade’s highest-profile names, crashed

make is this is a reflection of what’s

with debts of £822,706 in October but

happening in our industry,” the supplier

continues to trade after owner Erik

says. “Because if people weren’t frankly so

Laan created a phoenix company.

desperate for business they’d tell guys like

It’s thought to be the biggest-ever failure

that to get lost.

of an independent wine retailer in the UK,

“I’ve got to be honest, if he placed an

eclipsing the demise of Hailsham Cellars

order with me, and said, ‘right, I’m going to

(Neulin Trading), which owed around

give you 20% of the debt I owe with every

£500,000 when it collapsed in 2019.

order until it’s paid off, and I’m going to

Erik Laan Fine Wines is now in the hands

pay you pro forma’ I’d say, ‘OK, let’s do it’.”

of liquidators. Creditors include a long list

The supplier adds: “I have the names of

of well-known suppliers as well as smaller

private customers who are owed a certain

importers. Ten jobs were affected.

amount of wine value. And it’s a very long

The Vineking’s Reigate store in Church

list of people: £1,200 here there, two grand

Steet continues to trade, now under the

there, 500 quid there – money that’s been

ownership of VK Wines Ltd, a business set

taken from people using my assets.”

up by Vineking boss Erik Laan on June 5

Another supplier says: “We traded with

last year with new investment. Erik Laan

The Vineking for quite a long time and

Fine Wines was wound up on October

I guess you’ve always got this situation

6 when the voluntary liquidator was

where if they miss a payment you think,

appointed.

OK, we know times are hard and you

The Vineking’s other Reigate shop, in West Road, has closed. The Weybridge

need wine to trade your way out of this situation.

store was shuttered in 2024. Another

“But it gets to a point where you think,

branch in East Molesey was offloaded in

actually, you’re not going to trade your way

the spring of 2025.

out of this situation. Calls and emails don’t

The statement of affairs published by liquidators shows that Erik Laan Fine

get returned you think: hang on, something is not quite right here.”

Wines had an unpaid VAT bill of £180,000

The supplier is selling stock with

and £50,000 of overdue National Insurance

proforma invoices “plus a little bit”.

contributions.

Its 10 staff are owed £102,790, and more

“It’s quite sad that it’s happened and we just need to be ultra careful that it doesn’t

than £78,000 is owed to customers.

happen again,” the supplier adds. “Our gut

Trade debts amount to £374,446.

feeling is: how is this going to be different

Suppliers who continue to trade with

from last time?”

The Vineking told The Wine Merchant

to Vindependents, the agency business

business.

whose stakeholders are all independent

Proforma invoices are being issued, in added to pay down part of the debt owed by the original company.

The mood among suppliers ranges from anger to quiet resignation. One importer,

Of course, you can’t please everyone all the time, so we winemakers must have a sense of who is likely to drink what they create.

And as every region is influenced by climate, there are limitations on how far you can ‘shape’ a wine at any stage of the process.

Blending is the moment where balance is truly decided, and for traditional method sparkling wines, it is considered to be one of the most important winemaking stages, due to the use of the three classic (but vastly different) Champagne varietals: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay.

Then there’s winemaking methodology, which varies as much as climates do.

Fundamentally, really good blending needs a range of really good components to provide the options to achieve something even remotely balanced. These may differ in acidity (like MLF or non-MLF base wines), vineyard ripeness (cooler top of slope vs. warmer bottom of slope) or in oak influence (old vs. new). And when fewer components are available, the winemaking basics (like sugar, acids and pH) must be spot on, as without the additional components a balanced, drinkable wine, becomes harder to achieve.

So, is blending an art? Not quite.

Measuring portions of wine into a cylinder with the help of a spreadsheet hardly seems artistic. Blending a balanced wine is really just a simple idea, wrapped in a painstaking process, with an uncertain endpoint.

There’s no real way to describe it except as just 'hard work'. Like so many tasks in the wine industry, from growing to making and selling, achieving balance demands patience, judgment and no small amount of determination. In short, it’s a challenge we’ll keep meeting, blend by blend.

Erik Laan Fine Wines also owed £13,504

that no credit is being offered to the new

some cases with an additional element

In winemaking, balance is often a moving target, particularly in England, where our climate and growing conditions are so delightfully unpredictable. Yet, the idea of wine balance itself is simple: the point of making wine should really be: to create something that people, whoever they are, like to drink. If a wine is out of balance or the flavour profile isn’t appealing, then someone, somewhere, is sure to notice.

merchants. The Vineking is no longer listed as a member of the group.

Vindependents MD Jess Hutchinson says: “We are reviewing a variety of options with Erik with both parties keen to find a solution to them remaining a member.”

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 11

www.hattingleyvalley.com

Unbottling

Restaurateurs in wine shop launch

Christmas is done – congratulations. The annual wild ride of events, endless stock, deliveries, of offers, emails, courier drivers who literally drove you nuts and crazy, exhausting (and sometimes joyous and exhilarating) long hours are all packed safely back in their box for another year. Now our focus turns to the new season, bubbling with ideas, hope and optimism ... but here come the invoices and statements to grab your attention with crushing pressure. January may start with more money in the bank than at any other time, but the month is likely to end with far less in the pot. We all know that money management and cash flow are key to survival, but how do we talk about it? Do we even want to talk about it? And does talking make any difference anyway?

The Caravan Shop, which opened in Glasgow last May, has launched Cellar, a

with Rachel Gibson MBACP

Can we talk about money?

Caravan is going underground

The team behind Sylvan, a restaurant

wine bar underneath its Great Western

and bottle shop in the Woodlands area

Road premises.

of Glasgow, opened a second retail premises in December.

Colin Campbell and Jake Martell have formed a collaboration with Doug Webster

The business is part of the Cultar Restaurant Group which also owns restaurants Brett and The Clarence.

Christopher Brewer, the general manager

(the owner of natural wine importer and

at Brett and The Caravan Shop, says: “We

wholesaler Baregrape) to open Sylvan Le

had a really nice summer here in Glasgow

Cave on the south side of the city.

and there was an abundance of people

Licensing has allowed for off-sales only

out on our patio. But with the winter, we

for the time being, but Webster says they

lost the patio and we didn’t really have the

eventually hope to operate as a hybrid.

same foot traffic, so we decided to utilise

“It’s not a massive unit,” he says, “but

this beautiful space downstairs. We’ve got

now that we’ve done the work it feels like

five tables and just 10 seats and it feels

we have a lot of space. We reckon we can

very cosy.

probably seat around 24 inside and there is

Money worries can create a tricky conversation. Depending on how we have been raised and conditioned with early experiences, money can be linked with negative feelings of shame, embarrassment, avoidance, worry and denial. When we feel the weight of responsibility in clearing those bills, we may start to question ourselves. Did we order too much stock? Did we make the best choices and take the right risks?

scope to have a terrace outside too.”

Money can provoke feelings of unfairness if you pride yourself on paying your staff and suppliers on time, but know of others who disregard their financial obligations. Money can raise feelings of powerlessness, insecurity, but also disappointment when you can’t afford to give those pay rises and bonuses to your team, or yourself.

“I think the fun highlight for us is the two separate spaces. Upstairs is very bright – the whole storefront is windows

the Baregrape portfolio of natural wines

and glass, and you can hear the hustle and

alongside a range from other suppliers

bustle of everybody outside. Downstairs in

including Alliance Wine and Dynamic Vines.

the cellar is the complete opposite; you’re

“We’ve worked with them for years with

almost tucked away, there’s no clock, you

Sylvan,” says Webster, “and we already have

can’t see the sun, and you almost lose track

a good relationship with them and other

of time in conversation. There are two

local Scottish wine merchants. We want

very separate vibes, both of which have

to work with some London companies as

great wine and great food, but wherever

well, but we definitely want to focus on

you want to sit, you can have a different

local importers.”

experience.”

Naomi Vance

The wine range will of course include

We are not all in the same boat. Some people have more money than others and life is not always fair. If you are struggling, find someone to talk to. Use the trade tastings and events to have a chat and open up about your realities.

Be brave and share your worries. You may find life-changing support from others in exactly the same position as you.

Rachel is an integrative counsellor and a member of the British Association for Counselling & Psychotherapy. She formerly ran Wine Utopia in Winchester. To support clients in the wine trade, she offers ongoing online counselling sessions at the reduced rate of £35 per 50 minutes, so mention this article.

Email rachel@rachelgibsoncounselling.co.uk.

The Cellar: a place to lose track of time beneath Great Western Road

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 12

Beau Constantia

Beau Constantia

Pavement is part of Gabor’s plan Gabor Juhasz, formerly at Shepherd Market Wine House in London, has opened his own place in Camden Town.

He didn’t get the keys to his premises until mid-November, so it was a recordbreaking turnaround to be open in time for the Christmas trade.

Wandering Grapes is a hybrid with the capacity of 40 seats inside and an additional 20 outside.

“It’s a pedestrianised street, and the previous tenants used to use the outside space – I just have to apply for the licence to do that,” explains Juhasz. “At the moment I have a category E, so it means I’m going to serve food all day long, not as a restaurant, but a little bit more than a wine bar – a kind of tapas-style Mediterranean approach.

“The wine selection is French-focused; however it contains more than 220 labels from all around the world, from Tasmania through Europe till Canada, with a quirky natural and orange wine section.

“I’m really working on selecting the best wines, and a large amount of them are natural. I’m focusing on organic and sustainable winemaking, and doing something similar with sourcing the meats and cheeses.”

Taste Fine Wines debts revealed

Two new indies in northern England

Taste Fine Wines had debts of £161,036

• November saw the opening of The

when it closed late last year, according

Inglenook Wine Bar & Merchants in

to liquidator CB Business Recovery.

Barnard Castle. Planning and licensing

The Huddersfield indie, owned by Tim

were eventually granted despite concerns

Marriott, owed £57,608 to Inverarity

from locals regarding noise. Owner Morgan

Morton, £39,938 to Hallgarten & Novum

Derbyshire says: “It has been a long time

Wines and £5,675 to Berkmann Wine

since we started this journey and has

Cellars.

involved many bumps along the way.”

Other trade creditors include Liberty

Gabor Juhasz’s new Camden Town premises

Wines, Maisons Marques & Domaines and

• York independent Jorvine has opened a

Hunters & Frankau. The business also

second branch. The South Bank shop, which

owed £21,939 to Lloyds Bank, £17,218 to

offers wine on tap, comes four years after

employees and £4,000 to HMRC.

the Fulford store was launched.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 13

Champagne Devaux and the Côte des Bar: a Pinot Noir legacy How Devaux’s heartland grape shapes structure, freshness and identity in the UK market.

By Jean-Noël Girard, commercial export director of Champagne Devaux

P

inot Noir has always been one of Champagne’s defining grapes – but in the Côte des Bar, it is far more than that. It is the heartbeat of the region.

And nowhere is this more evident than at Champagne Devaux,

where Pinot Noir is not simply an ingredient, but a foundation.

As the leading producer in the Côte des Bar, we have built our identity on understanding, nurturing and elevating this exceptional variety.

In the southern reaches of Champagne, Pinot Noir behaves differently.

Its ripeness is balanced by a natural tension drawn from the region’s Kimmeridgian soils, giving wines that are both expressive and finely structured. This distinctive energy is at the heart of our Terroirs de Coeur collection: three cuvées that showcase the many faces of Pinot Noir and the craftsmanship behind Devaux’s identity.

C

œur de Nature, our organic expression, reflects the purest form of our terroir. Made entirely from organically farmed vineyards, it captures Pinot Noir at its most authentic:

vibrant fruit, subtle savouriness, and a beautifully direct, unadorned texture.

Cœur des Bar Blanc de Noirs represents the backbone of our expertise. Pinot Noir, vinified as a blanc, reveals a different dimension – depth without heaviness, roundness supported by a saline thread, and a long, sculpted finish. It embodies precision, elegance and the full expression of our southern vineyards.

Finally, Cœur des Bar Rosé stands apart. Crafted through two distinct techniques – blending rosé de saignée with rosé d’assemblage – it combines intensity and delicacy in a unique way. The saignée component adds colour, structure and aromatic depth, while the assemblage brings lift, finesse and freshness. The result is a rosé that feels both bold and refined, perfectly balanced and true to the Côte des Bar. Together, these three wines form a complete expression of what Pinot Noir can achieve in the Côte des Bar: purity, diversity and a clear sense of place.

Sponsored feature. Wines are imported by Liberty Wines

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 14

Rising Stars

A

Alice Jones

Bakkus, Lancing, West Sussex

s the first and (so far) only specialist wine shop

she became assistant manager at a cocktail bar in

and bar to open in the small town of Lancing,

Brighton.

Bakkus has caused quite a stir. Approaching

“I worked for a marketing agency for a while,” Alice

its first anniversary, the business is already a

says, “but I’ve always had a real appreciation for

neighbourhood staple and Victoria and Simon Tripp, the

cocktails and interesting drinks. It was never about the

siblings behind the venture, couldn’t be happier that

alcohol or getting tipsy, it was more the art of a well-

they have had Alice Jones on board since the beginning.

made drink.

“Alice is the definition of a rising star, not only for her

“I had a couple of hospitality jobs while I was at uni,

natural talent, but for her loyalty, passion and belief in

and when I felt unfulfilled by later corporate roles, I

something before it even existed,” says Victoria. “She

made my way back to hospitality – I definitely have a

joined us before we opened our doors, taking a chance

passion for it and there’s no exception when it comes

on a brand new neighbourhood concept and on us as

to Bakkus. I really enjoy my job and I’m really proud of

founders. That leap of faith set the tone for the culture

what we’ve become.”

we’ve built: ambitious, community-minded, and

T

grounded in genuine hospitality.

“From day one, Alice has shown maturity and capability well beyond

he trade is seeing a ripple effect of Brighton’s reputation as a food and drink haven with

surrounding towns such as Lancing,

her years. She approaches every challenge with calm confidence

Worthing and Shoreham now

and creativity, whether managing

boasting indies of their own.

“It’s really nice to have brought

a busy service, supporting new

something like this to Lancing,” says

team members or working closely with us to elevate operations and

Alice. “Simon and Victoria spotted

guest experience. Her instinct for

a gap in the market. I was quite

knowing what guests need before they

Brighton-obsessed before realising

ask, and delivering warmth with ease, is

that there are so many hidden gems beyond – all these other up-and-coming

rare, natural and deeply appreciated by our customers. It’s no surprise she’s already a familiar face in our community and a name people ask for.

“In a young business, agility matters, and Alice has not

spots outside which are just as creative.”

Nothing beats sibling banter, either. “It’s so lovely working with them,” says Alice. “It’s clear they are very

only grown with us, she has also helped us grow. Her

close and the amount of craziness that happens here

leadership style is authentic and kind. She champions

… it’s so much fun. I’ve been getting into my natural

the culture we’re proud of, and she consistently brings

wines and Victoria and Simon have different opinions.

new ideas to the table. She has already played a

Simon loves the more hipster wines on the natural

pivotal role in our success, and we know this is only the

spectrum whereas Victoria will be like ‘that tastes like

beginning.”

pond water’, and I’m like ‘it tastes like pond

Originally from London, Alice moved to the south

water, but like nice pond water’. The way our

coast as a student. After completing her degree in

conversations go when we’re tasting together

English Literature and a master’s in digital marketing,

is so funny.”

Alice wins a bottle of Champagne Devaux Cuvée D courtesy of Liberty Wines

If you’d like to nominate a Rising Star, email claire@winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 15

TRIED & TESTED

Philip Shaw Small Batch Riesling 2023

Arboleda Chardonnay 2022

Aussie Riesling can be rather hit and miss but this

is clearly inaccurate for a still wine, but at the same

one comes close to the bullseye. The Orange-based

time a good way to describe how it twinkles and twirls

producer is fairly new to single-varietal Riesling,

on the palate. Not that it’s all about acidity: actually

and has found that the trick is slow fermentation in

there’s a 40% malolactic component, and some lovely

600-litre barrels (two with German yeasts, the other

tropical notes. All in all a very good advertisement for

left wild). The wine is electric, but expertly insulated.

Aconcagua Costa and its maritime breezes.

RRP: £28.70

RRP: £19.80

The word we’re reaching for here is “sparkling”, which

ABV: 12%

ABV: 13.5%

Awin Barratt Siegel (01780 755810)

Hatch Mansfield (01344 871800)

abs.wine

hatchmansfield.com

Domaine Ternynck Irancy 2021 From an organic family domaine in northern

Alfredo Arribas Gotes del Priorat 2021

Burgundy comes another example of Cachet’s knack

An expertly constructed blend of Garnacha, Cariñena

of finding characterful French wines at attractive

and Syrah, befitting the architect-turned-winemaker

prices. There’s a 10% César component added to the

whose creation it is. Arribas brings out the freshness

Pinot Noir, a local favourite noted for its tannin, and

and intensity of Priorat in a wine that somehow feels

it’s perfectly judged, adding intensity and depth to the

both weighty and weightless, with balsamic notes

cherry and blackberry flavours.

complementing the cherry and raspberry fruit.

RRP: £20.99

RRP: £25.95

ABV: 13.5%

ABV: 14%

Cachet Wine (01482 638888)

Milestone Wines (01200 613122)

cachetwine.co.uk

milestonewines.co.uk

Lorca Lo % Ancellotta Malbec 2025

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2023

Lower-alcohol wines are always a compromise, but

If Barolo is a wise old grandfather, and Barbaresco

clever winemaking decisions can ensure authenticity.

its ever more greying son, then Langhe Nebbiolo is

Old-vine fruit in this part of east Mendoza ripens

the into-everything toddler. What it hasn’t gained

early anyway, and picking soon after veraison means

in complexity and etiquette it makes up for with its

phenolics are already in good supply. Nothing added

infectious smile. This is Nebbiolo in its purest, most

or taken away here; a light, fresh but satisfying wine.

innocent form.

RRP: £12.50

RRP: £29.95

ABV: 9.5%

ABV: 14%

Ucopia World Wines (01435 517080)

Astrum Wine Cellars (020 3328 4620)

ucopiawines.co.uk

astrumwinecellars.com

Morandé El Cabernet de Ránquil La Capilla 2020

Donna Elvira Aegidius Greco di Tufo 2019

Ungrafted 120-year-old vines in a remote part of Itata,

Campania’s PR can be dominated by consumable icons

in a vineyard ploughed by horses, produce a limited-

like Amalfi lemons, Neopolitan pizza and Mozzarella

edition wine that adds another page to the story of

di Bufala. But don’t overlook wines like Greco di Tufo.

premium Chilean winemaking. Aged for 16 months in

This one is gently honeyed, laced with nutty oxidation

French oak and two years in bottle, it’s perfumed and

and fleshy stone fruits until the palate closes with a

concentrated, with savoury notes as well as rich fruit.

rush of citrus and minerality.

RRP: £50

RRP: £28

ABV: 13%

ABV: 14%

Berkmann Wine Cellars (020 7609 4711)

The Wine Treasury (020 7793 9999)

berkmann.co.uk

winetreasury.com

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 16

ight ideas r b

73: MOBILE WINE BAR Bryan Houde Wine Monkey, Chippenham

In a nutshell: Hit the road in style with a

Will it be available for private hire?

mobile bar and take your brand beyond the

“Absolutely, yes. That wasn’t the original

bricks and mortar.

intention. I didn’t purchase it with the idea of doing people’s weddings and whatever.

Tell us more.

But as soon as people saw the Wine Box

“The Wine Box is a small horse-trailer

on my socials it sparked conversations. I

that’s been completely fitted out as a wine

think that the reputation of Wine Monkey

bar. There’s a bar that pulls out at the back

has already spread enough that people

so I can set up a proper seated wine bar

trust me as a brand; they trust my wine

area and there’s an ordering counter at the

selection. So I think it’s quite appealing to

other end. It’s almost like a Transformer,

people to know they could have a mobile

with parts sliding in and out. It’s easy to set

version at their private event.”

up and it’s pretty spacious, with a sink and electrics, and it’s really convenient for what

Is licensing or transportation an issue?

I want to do.”

“For now, because I’m only going to be

Is this something you’d been planning

The horse box is “almost like a Transformer”

for a while?

using it in temporary locations, I just get a temporary events licence, which is quite easy to obtain and inexpensive.

“It was more of an opportunity that fell in

Chippenham Christmas Market, where I

my lap. Sometimes the universe tells you

served mulled wine.

something, and instead of saying ‘I just

“I’m also seeing it as the perfect

“In terms of transport, I have a VW SUV, and I just pull it with that. It’s quite simple.”

don’t have the time’, you think ‘let’s just go

opportunity to scope out different areas

with it and see what happens’.

for another premises. I’ve already been

Will you be serving food?

thinking about opening in a second

“I don’t have any equipment or setup inside

a similar box for his crêpe business. He

location and I thought this could be a really

to make anything, but I can definitely serve

built a second one and it just didn’t work

good way of testing other market towns

something. For the Chippenham Christmas

out for him so he sold it to me. So it was

in the area. Maybe go set up in the town

Market, I’m not far from the restaurant,

already kitted out, and all I had to do is put

square on a Saturday as a pop-up wine bar

so my chef did sausage rolls and different

some Wine Monkey branding on it.”

concept.

sorts of festive tarts and quiche.

“I knew someone who had already made

“Trying to find potential venues is so

“I have room for another under-counter

What sort of events will you be taking

much work, but if I can just get a permit

fridge so I was thinking that for the

it to?

and literally rock up with my trailer, I’m

summer I can do charcuterie and cheese

“I unveiled it for the first time at the

good to go.”

boards from it as well.”

Bryan wins a WBC gift box containing some premium drinks and a box of chocolates.

Tell us about a bright idea that’s worked for you and you too could win a prize.

Email claire@winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 17

DAVID PERRY

really bad but not good enough to bother drinking. The other was a hopeless case.

The cork was loose and a good part of the wine had escaped – some of it into my bag when I took it home. Out of curiosity, I opened it anyway and poured it into a jug.

I had expected it to be undrinkable but

Irregular Thoughts A customer gave me two bottles of port as a gift. Memories came flooding back

remarkably it was OK: still deep coloured with rich fruit, and far better than some others I have experienced from the same era. I poured a small glass and left the rest in a decanter. The following day it was still OK. That was a bigger shock.

L

ooking at the label, there are a number of things that are worth investigating.

It says it’s from Fonseca and I am willing

to believe that. It calls itself a “crusting” port rather than “crusted”; I believe the terms are interchangeable, and that it is a blend of various years unfiltered and with the ageing potential of vintage port.

Now the year: “landed in 1975”. That’s an interesting bit. The laws changed in 1974 such that all vintage port had to be bottled in Portugal. However other styles such as crusted, and presumably crusting, port could still be bottled in the UK. That went on until 1996.

The size: it’s 70cl (although by the time I got to it, it was closer to 50cl). When was it standardised to 75cl? I have also come across clarets from the 70s in 70cl bottles I remember when all this was bottling plants

T

so it must have been later. A bit of digging and it turns out that various sizes were used but that UK bottlers traditionally

here’s a charming customer who

enthusiastic alcoholic. I believe he is quite

favoured the 70cl. It was 1980 when port

pops in quite regularly for a few

well-to-do and lives locally in a large

was standardised to 75cl. So the 70cl is

packs of machine-made Cuban

manor house. He often talks of shooting

reasonable for the time.

cigars. I try to make sure that we always

and fishing jaunts and the exquisite port

have some in stock but that’s not always

and wine which is consumed. He tells me

easy.

he inhales the bouquet and allows his

At one point recently Cuba was

guests to drink it. There is a sadness in

experiencing 12-hour power outages

his eyes but I think he takes solace in still

so making cigars by machine was not

being alive.

happening. They were finished and packed

To replenish his cellar he recently bought

in a factory in Spain. At the same recent

some port at auction. The lot he was

point the workers in that factory were on

successful in buying contained a couple of

strike. Luckily we had sufficient back-up

extra throwaway bottles. Being a charming

stock when my customer came in.

chap, and happy to be able to buy his

He only pops in for cigars as he is a recovering alcoholic. He is recovering seriously, having been a life-threateningly

“Selected and bottled by Lake Isle Wines,

cigars, he threw them in my direction.

One was a 1988 Churchill’s LBV which I opened and poured away. It was not

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 18

A relic from before port crusted in 75cl bottles

Uppingham, Leics.” I know Uppingham very well. My parents moved there when I was 14. I stayed in Shaftesbury but went home in the long holidays. Uppingham is the second town in Rutland. There was a period, however, when it was part of Leicestershire. Rutland, when I was 14, famously didn’t have any traffic lights and the rates were very low, in keeping with that lack of any real infrastructure. Also it was all fields and not submerged under Rutland Water, as a large part is today.

Rutland was absorbed into Leicestershire in 1974 and reinstated as an independent county in 1997 – on April 1! So it was Uppingham, Leicestershire at the time the label was printed. (By the way; everyone knows Rutland is the smallest county in England but that is only true when the tide is out on the Isle of Wight.)

“Lake Isle Wines.” I didn’t clock that immediately when I was given the bottle.

Just as well as I may have dropped it in shock. I worked for Lake Isle!

I

had returned to Rutland in my early 20s with my future wife (later future exwife) in tow. We rented a cottage down

the road from Mum and Dad for £5 a month shortly before they moved to Germany. I got a job washing up in the Lake Isle. I used to cycle home late in the evening often with a half-empty bottle of something presumably wonderful and some leftovers in my basket.

It would have been around 1980 and then it was a very fine restaurant with extensive wine cellars running underneath Uppingham High Street. It is still there and the wine list is still tremendous. Now it also has rooms. Roy Richards was the chef-patron from 1978 to 1982 before forming Richards Walford, the quietly unacknowledged merchants who became BBR’s biggest supplier. I knew him as the posh cook who could be quite generous.

Maybe that sparked an interest in wine?

Later that year I got a job managing The Mill Wine Shop in Oakham, (now) Rutland – where my wine life started.

David Perry is the owner of Shaftesbury Wines in Dorset

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 19

DUNCAN MCLEAN

with (a) the first rugged Frenchman she meets, (b) the Gallic lifestyle (everyone lives in a château and drives either a sports car or a horse-drawn carriage), and (c) the idea of making a living by working in a tiny wine-bar-cum-bookshop rather than a Manhattan office block.

Northabout This wine film barely held my attention.

Do customers feel the same about me?

The answer is: she couldn’t. Love is in the air, or maybe in the fizz. Or maybe just in the script, which is undoubtedly the most formulaic and hokey piece of storytelling I’ve ever had the pleasure of second guessing. Even in a post-Christmas stupor I could foresee the whole plot 30 seconds after the opening credits. Halfway through, I went to the kitchen to refresh my glass of Cuvée Orcades, and could work out exactly what I’d missed when I returned.

“It’s so predictable!” I harrumphed.

“That’s the whole point,” said someone at the far end of the sofa, looking up from her phone. “Netflix know that most of the viewers will be scrolling though Facebook or TikTok while they’re watching, so they keep everything deliberately obvious and corny.”

“So even if you’re not paying attention you still get the gist?”

“Exactly. It’s called Second Screen Syndrome.”

I gazed at the TV for a second. “They’re going to end up getting married,” I said.

“Quelle surprise,” she said.

I took another absentminded sip from my glass and returned to the film. I hated to admit it, but it had some witty lines, and I found myself laughing out loud quite a

A tense dinner table discussion about disgorgement dates in Champagne Problems

O

few times: “My body is a temple,” says uptight Otto, pursing his Teutonic lips.

ver the holidays we fancied

point for some enterprising house – Krug

something fun and frothy, so

Cuvée Orcades, perhaps.”

clicked on the highest rated

But no, it wasn’t that kind of Champagne

“Mine’s more of a bouncy castle,” replies Roberto, opening the first bottle of the day on their early morning train to

Christmas film on Netflix, Champagne

problem at all. The problem was: how

Problems. “This is going to be good,” I

could a young and beautiful venture

thought to myself. “Ninety-nine minutes

capitalist from New York spend three days

that happened? Had I actually filled it 20

of serious discussion about whether the

in Paris and Epernay without falling in love

minutes before, or just thought of doing it?

recently approved piwi grape, Voltis, will change the character of Champagne. Or maybe we’ll hear about the unstoppable rise of zero dosage Brut Nature. Maybe even whether the next house deciding to age a few cases at the bottom of the sea might do it in Scapa Flow: a unique selling

‘Duncan wasn’t lying!

This under-appreciated Sicilian grape really does have tremendous aromatic appeal!’

THETHEWINE WINEMERCHANT MERCHANTjanuary May 2025 2026 20

Champagneland.

My own glass was empty again. How had

I was too focused on the fantasy Château Cassell Grand Cru on the TV to pay enough attention to the real wine in my hand.

And then a whole host of memories crowded in. Of me standing in the shop rabbiting on about wine. Cépage this, cépage that … oak for texture not for aroma

… good with fish, especially salmon … old family firm … not certified but moving towards organic … no added sulphur … yes it is a crazy label … smooth ripe tannins …

?

THE BURNING QUESTION

zesty and zingy … sunshine in a bottle …

Christmas in a bottle … every-increasing

Have you ever decided not to list a wine because the label was bad?

�

Yes I have, but only once. It was a bit of a hard sell even to begin with but a great value, good wine. Once people had tried it they came back for it time and time again. But when the label changed to something that looked like it was from an episode of Only Fools & Horses I thought, it’s a tough enough wine to convince people to buy, and now even worse with an unrecognisable label for the regulars who previously bought it. So I stopped stocking it.

duty in a bottle …

Of all the hundreds and hundreds of customers I’d had these conversations with, how much of what I’d said did they remember when they left the shop? Or an hour or a day later, when they wheeched off the Stelvin or cunked out the cork? I suspect very little, apart from a general sense of reassurance that they’d bought

”

Halle Stephens Vindinista, west London

something decent.

Because we, fellow wine merchants, pay attention to what we’re drinking – at least some of the time – we assume that our customers do too. But do they, or is that a fantasy as unrealistic as Champagne Problems? How many of the people I recommended a Mandrarossa Frappato to actually sat around on Christmas Day and said: “Hold on a minute, before you pull that cracker … Duncan wasn’t lying! This

�

I wish I could say I was not that superficial, but I’m drawn to pretty labels as much as anyone. But a lot of my favourite wines are from places where labels traditionally tend to be quite boring, Piemonte and the Loire, for instance, so that helps to keep me on track. As my old friend and colleague Tony Brown MW is fond of saying, ‘you can’t drink a label’. So no, the wine comes first, then the price and then finally the packaging.

”

under-appreciated Sicilian grape really

Matthew Jones Wnco Mwnco, Cardigan

does have tremendous aromatic appeal.

Wild strawberries, he said, and by Jove I

�

I have definitely decided not to list wine because of the label! Having a good label on a bottle is absolutely vital in the wine industry.

We are human beings and will naturally judge things by their appearance. I think the general standard of labelling is better than it used to be due to wineries using marketing consultants and getting the opinion of younger generations when it comes to what appeals. In terms of imaging that really puts me off, faces or photographs on bottles really bug me.

think he’s right. But it’s the lack of tannin he predicted that does indeed make it an ideal match for white meat, like this turkey. Three cheers for our plucky local independent wine merchant!”

H

ow many really pay attention to the wine? I’m not sure, but I

”

suspect it’s somewhere between

zero and none. It doesn’t bother me too

Penny Edwards * Champagne winner * Cellar Door Wines, St Albans

much. We had a nice chat, they paid me for the bottle, and now they’re having a lovely time drinking it. Job done. The fact that all my earnest enthusing is long since forgotten doesn’t offend me. Maybe that’s the bit of the transaction that matters to me, but what matters to them is drinking the wine and having a jolly time with their family and friends. And Netflix.

No problem! As the ebullient Roberto says: “It doesn’t matter if your glass is halfempty or half-full, as long as it’s refillable.”

Duncan McLean is proprietor of Kirkness & Gorie, Kirkwall

�

I have definitely turned down stocking a wine because of its label. I’ve always said in the shop that if a bottle has a bad label, then the wine is probably exceptional; but there is no doubt that people judge the wine by the cover. Some people think that the design needs to be very complex but I think that simple is best, with Davino Vast by Amathus being a great example. More customers are looking to make bottles a feature after they have been drunk by using them as candle holders etc, so this makes the label very important.

”

Charles Cornelius, Barks Wine Shop, Sheffield

Champagne Gosset The oldest wine house in Champagne: Äy 1584

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 21

BITS & BOBS

Favourite Things

South Africa’s wine industry has seen a 12% drop in vineyard area and sharply rising costs over the past decade, leaving only a small share of producers profitable.

Francis Peel

Whitebridge Wines, Stone

We love Chilean reds from the Maule Valley and the Terra Noble Azara Carménère is a particular favourite.

It’s a classic example of the expressive Chilean terroir: intense, structured and elegant.

Favourite wine and food match

I have always loved the wines of the mercurial Andrew Quady. He has made the most beautiful pudding wines in California since the 1980s and his sumptuous Elysium Black Muscat is one of the few wines that goes well with chocolate, though I prefer it with a chunk of blue cheese.

Favourite wine trip

China recognises Burgundy labels

Between 2014 and 2023, the area

China has granted formal geographical

planted with wine-grape vineyards in

indication protection to 70 Burgundy

South Africa fell from 99,472 hectares

wine appellations, extending legal

to 87,848 hectares, according to FTI

safeguards from prestigious Grands

Consulting – a reduction of about 12%.

Crus such as Montrachet to village-level

Production costs have almost doubled

names including Pommard and Côte de

over the past decade, increasing faster than both headline inflation and producer-price

Favourite wine on my list

Magpie

Most wineries in Cape ‘unprofitable’

indices.

Nuits-Villages.

The move marks the most extensive recognition Burgundy has received in the

This rising cost base, combined with

Chinese market and signals stepped-up

declining yields and constrained pricing

cooperation between China and France in

power, has put heavy pressure on margins.

viticulture and agriculture.

By 2023, only around 8% of producers

China’s National Intellectual Property

were profitable, while 43% were running

Administration issued a notice approving

at a loss.

immediate protection for 70 geographical

Net farm income – a commonly used

indications, including Montrachet,

proxy for profitability – fell by nearly 37%

Richebourg, Clos de la Roche, Chablis

year-on-year.

Grand Cru, Petit Chablis, Pommard and

The Drinks Business, December 10

Côte de Nuits-Villages.

Vino Joy News, December 9

Portugal volumes lowest in decade

A week working the harvest at the world’s most beautiful vineyard, Jordan Estate, with Gary and Kathy Jordan in 2003 takes the biscuit. We were given T-shirts with Your Liver is Evil on the front and Punish It! on the back.

Portuguese wine production in 2025

Favourite wine trade person

Industry mourns Peter Fraser

is expected to fall by 20% to its lowest

The Australian wine industry is

volume in the last decade.

shocked and saddened by the

According to the National Institute of

passing of Yangarra

Statistics, although wine production is “the

Estate winemaker

lowest in the last decade, it is expected

and general

that quality wines will be obtained, with

manager Peter

At the risk of upsetting various wine friends, I would have to plump for the irrepressible, Tiggerish Johnny Bingham of Delibo – endlessly cheerful, enthusiastic and unbelievably hard working.

balanced sugar levels and good aromatic

Fraser, respected

concentration”.

and beloved as one

Favourite wine shop

number and weight of grapes”, as well as

I have children living in Brighton and I always enjoy visiting Butlers Wine Cellar. I feel we share similar wine tastes.

The fall in wine production this year was due to “intense rains and mild temperatures in the spring which favoured the development of mildew, reducing the

of the leading lights in progressive Australian winemaking.

Fraser, 51, was found dead at the scene of a fire at his home in Clarendon.

His list of achievements is long, including

“extreme heat in the summer which caused

Australian Winemaker of the Year in 2015

burns and dehydration of the fruit”, the

and twice winning Halliday Australian

institute said.

Wine of the Year.

The Portugal News, December 13

Decanter, December 1

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 22

One-cent rosé angers vignerons

destination famed for its natural wines,

Lidl has sparked outrage among

region. Wolds Wine Estate’s own wines and

QUIZ TIME

winegrowers for selling a bottle of rosé

ciders will also be available, which are all

With Flying Füchs

wine for €0.01.

made in the onsite winery.

The vastly reduced price, for a 75cl bottle of Côtes-de-Gascogne rosé, was only available at the store in Sérignan (Hérault).

The usual price for the bottle is €2.99.

The supermarket said the €0.01 price was an internal labelling error, and when raised as an issue was removed from shelves.

However, labelling for the wine framed the price as part of a flash sale for the

craft ciders, tours, tastings and glamping.

There is a range of produce available from small artisan makers from across the

Marketing Nottingham, December 9

Telmont launches lightest magnum Champagne Telmont has launched what is thought to be the lightest magnum bottle ever produced, weighing 1,600g.

It will be “available to any Champagne

product.

house looking to shrink its carbon footprint

The Connexion, December 12

without changing equipment or process”, Telmont said.

Notts vineyard shop opens doors

compliant with all Champagne standards”,

Wolds Wine Estate in Stanton-on-the-

environmental impact by nearly 7.5%

Wolds, Keyworth, has opened its doors

during manufacturing, while maintaining

to its new vineyard shop.

identical pressure resistance, transport

The store is another diversification of the

The new bottle, which remains “fully is around 130g lighter than conventional magnum bottles, and reduces the

durability and aesthetics, according to

family business to complement the already

Telmont.

popular south Nottinghamshire vineyard

The Drinks Business, December 9

1. Which one of these wine styles does not feature in the current Kylie Minogue range? (a) Rosé (b) Prosecco (c) Sauvignon Blanc (d) Petite Sirah 2. In increasing order of sweetness, rank these sparkling wines: (a) Brut (b) Extra Dry (c) Dry (d) Extra Brut 3. In port wine production, what two-word term is used to describe the effect of the hot sun on grapes?

4. Switzerland’s signature white grape variety goes by two main names. What are they?

5. What percentage of wines classified as Haut-Médoc are white? (a) 0% (b) 5% (c) 15% (d) 25%

Answers on page 71

corkage You've received your

by Brett sort out the stockroom day

apply restaurant mark-ups day, february 10

wine merchant wall planner.

amontillado amnesty

SEVENTY QUID

for a bottle of pinot noir ?

it's daylight robbery !

but there are a few

extra dates

you moaned last week about paying £30 ...

that you might want to pencil in ... the young vines conference, june 8-9

i was convinced i could sell it !

May 16

over-ordering did sherry is extremely win common,liverpool sir. don't the league worry, we'll take ? things from here

3.passi

march 3

carbon-free delivery day celebrating the role of

immature vineyards producing fruit that doesn't overwhelm the consumer with

complexity or flavour

July 23

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2025 23

tell it like it is to customers day, october 18

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 24

Merchant Profile: The Grape to Glass, Rhos-on-Sea

watson in north wales Tim Watson traded in a career in BBC drama to return to his native Clwyd coast, first with Majestic but later running his own wine shop. By Nigel Huddleston

I

f we’d profiled Tim Watson’s The Grape to Glass

him, but his heart wasn’t in it anymore and I was left

a few years ago it would have been a much more

running two places,” says Tim A.

complicated read. Not just because the north

With Tim B moving on, the beer business was

Wales indie was run in tandem with a hybrid craft

wound down and Tim A moved The Grape to Glass

beer bar and shop on the other side of the street,

across the road into Elementary’s bigger and more

but because his business partner was also called

characterful premises.

Tim Watson.

“It was nightmare talking to electricity or phone companies: ‘which Tim Watson am I speaking to?’.

Even our landlord used to ask ‘is it old Tim or young Tim?’,” recalls the Tim Watson who was the original founder and remains at the helm today (let’s call him Tim A for now).

The pair had met when Tim A was wine sales manager at Welsh food and drink specialist Blas yr Fwyd, and Tim B was one of his wholesale customers running the region’s acclaimed Kinmel

“I’ll never forget the first day I delivered wine and we introduced ourselves: ‘I’m Tim Watson’. ‘I’m Tim Watson too’.

The friendship was born”

The Grape to Glass is in Rhos-on-Sea, a seaside resort on the Clwyd coast that you’ve probably never heard of, which is joined at the hip with neighbouring Llandudno, which it’s more likely you have.

Tim A grew up locally – both his grandfather and father ran well-known local independent stores and he cut his retailing teeth working for his dad – but left for the bright lights of London and a career in TV at the BBC. He worked his way through various production roles to become a script editor and, later, a casting director in continuing drama, with credits

Arms.

including Casualty, Holby City and Eastenders.

“I’ll never forget the first day I delivered wine and

Two multi-autographed Albert Square street signs

we introduced ourselves: ‘I’m Tim Watson’. ‘I’m Tim

are among a collection of memorabilia that give the

Watson too’. The friendship was born.”

store a quirky personality, including a pink neon

The business partnership forged around the creation of the craft beer shop, an addition to The

“on air” sign and an old-fashioned cash register that

Grape to Glass, which Tim A had opened in 2016.

harks back to his family’s shopkeeping heritage.

Tim’s interest in wine (let’s leave Tim B for now,

The two businesses operated separately and the original store supplied wine to the beer shop, which

but he’ll be back later) was sparked by “a chap

was called Elementary (Watson, geddit?).

called Graham Pash”, a mover and shaker in the early Majestic, who was

Tim B bowed out soon after the pandemic,

married to Tim’s wife Nicole.

ultimately leaving for love.

“I wasn’t really into

“She’s an amazing woman and I was so happy for

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 25

wine then, but I was buying it for after-show

fresh from London and seeing more of Wales than

parties and green rooms,” he says. “When we went

I’d ever done before. Bangor didn’t have much on-

to their house, he’d be pulling all sorts of things off

trade business but one thing I really enjoyed was

the shelves to try, and I was hooked.”

food and restaurants, so I’d pop in any opportunity I had when going past places.

How did you come to move back to north Wales?

I took voluntary redundancy in 2006 and went travelling the world with Nicole, who also worked in television: Australia, New Zealand, south east Asia; we just got out of TV. Things had changed and we got a package that was too good not to take.

I didn’t want to bring children up in London, and home is where the heart is. My mum had passed away and we had an offer to live rent-free with my father-in-law. We were barely there a month and I

“I could never forget how comfortable I’d been in a shop, as my grandfather had been, building relationships with customers”

I wasn’t a BDM, but I was getting leads all the time and just bouncing them back to our centralised department. So, Bangor grew from a very small store with very few trade accounts to something that was bit of a beast really.

I became a trainee and then assistant manager but the only way I could evolve in the company was to go and become a manager at another branch.

A lot of the managers were young people who’d recently been students, but I’d already had a career

got a call from the recruitment manager at Majestic,

and had a young family, so didn’t want to move. I

who said there was a job coming up at Bangor

was told I could never become the manager of the

Majestic. I leapt at it.

store I started in.

What was working for Majestic like at that time?

Where did the spark for The Grape to Glass

I was a driver for a year, going as far as three hours

come from?

to drop off a case of wine. Wales is quite big. I was

I left to go to a farm shop that was adding a wine shop. They had mahogany shelves but not one bottle in there. That’s where I came in. I was there for two years. I had customers following me from Majestic. It was a great dynamic. We were doing tasting evenings for American tours, and matching food and wine, which was an area I fell in love with.

That ran its course and I ended up working for Blas yr Fyrd for two and a half years. I enjoyed it but it was a very lonely role. There was a lot of time on the road, cold calling, whereas in retail you’ve got people coming in the door all day. I met some amazing customers and saw great restaurants but I could never forget how comfortable I’d been in a shop, as my grandfather had been, building relationships with customers. I thought, I should do it myself.

How did you go about it?

Customers were following me [between his previous jobs] so I thought: “If I have a shop, they’lI know where to find me.” It felt like a good starting point. I hadn’t a penny to my name, so I applied for a business loan through Business Wales. I had to write a very solid business plan. It was hard but we did it. We were offered a £20,000 loan to pay off over five years, so I was, like, let’s find some suppliers, let’s find a shop.

All I knew was that I wanted to build it cheaply

Not the current EPoS system

so I could afford to get as much wine as possible

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 26

in there. We started with a range of just over 200 wines and four suppliers. Jumping forward a few years, it’s much more than that.

Did you bring any learnings from your time in TV to the new business?

The BBC had five core values, which were trust, value, commitment, diversity and listening to your audience. I’ve tried to carry that over into the wine industry: gaining the trust of the customer; offering them value, whether that’s some information they get free or the products themselves; being diverse by showing them the plethora of wines from all over the world, and being different from Majestic and other independents; listening to the audience, and getting, say, Bulgarian wine in if they want us to get one; and a commitment to providing those values. I want to be here for customers.

Why did you decide to move The Grape to Glass when Elementary closed?

I did both for about a year but I ran myself into the ground. I wasn’t seeing the kids and staffing was difficult at the time. Both businesses were great, but Covid was hard and my heart was in wine.

Aesthetically, I liked this building more. The original wine shop across the road is a little block that was built in the late 1970s or early 1980s; this is a bank built in 1930-something and it’s got the original safe and a few other features. It had more

The shop is just a short walk from the beach at Rhos-on-Sea

character and it was a blank canvas. We dismantled both of them, decorated the other shop and let

and heavyweight reds that go with barbecues or

it out, and started again, building all the racking

watching Gogglebox after a really crap week.

using wood from a reclamation yard. We hand-built

It also gets people to try something different

everything ourselves.

and step outside of their comfort zone. People

I went for scaffold boards because they’re amazingly malleable.

Your website points out that the layout has “no categorisation by price, country or grape varietal”, but that it’s “logical”. Can you explain what you mean by that?

It’s by style rather than country. The wines are laid out in segments that work for food-matching purposes: it works because people will come in and say they’re making a Thai curry, or poaching a turbot or having local-reared gammon, and for that

“The BBC had five core values: trust, value, commitment, diversity and listening to your audience. I’ve tried to carry that over into the wine industry”

in Majestic would always go to Australia or New Zealand and wouldn’t touch, say, Portugal.

It’s useful for the staff to understand the range in greater detail as well. Having a [drink-in] wine list that changes every day helps with that too, because the staff are tasting 14 wines every day.

You mentioned that the range has grown significantly over the years. Where are you now with that?

When we started, we were working with Fells, Alliance, ABS and a little bit through Enotria. I

we might go for an oaky Chardonnay or a Viognier.

stayed away from Boutinot because they had a bit

The reds go from lightweight, which are more for

of saturation in Cheshire and a couple of other wine

white meat, to medium-bodied for tomato-based

shops close to here, and I wanted different wines

dishes, full-bodied for braised and stewed meat,

to what they were doing. Over time, that meant

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 27

visiting the London Wine Fair, SITT and a

the bank vault, where we lock the naughty people,

few other events, just building relationships with

which has room for another eight. At first it was

smaller importers that specialise in a country, and

quite claustrophobic and there was a big beer fridge

still using a couple of bigger companies, such as

which made it noisy and like a nuclear blast of light,

Fells, which has a broad spectrum.

but we’ve taken it out, which has softened it. If the

Every quarter we go: “Let’s go and find someone

shop’s full we can put walk-ins in there until a table

else. People are asking about Georgian wine,

becomes available. People can go in there and do

Macedonian wine or Portuguese wine: let’s search

a little bit of settling in before they come into the

out those wines and get them in.”

playground.

How important is the drink-in side of things?

The main space has a very busy feel, without

The heart of the business is that we are a wine

being cluttered. It’s got a lot of personality.

shop, but one that lets you drink and taste wine. We

We’ve used every available space because it’s quite

don’t do food but you can bring your own. That’s

small. I like to have a mixture of the old and the new.

been a great success. We did a little bit of cheese

There are some my grandfather’s old projectors

over the road, but some of it would only have a

and a camera from his childhood, my first remote

week on it, so I’d end up eating it myself. Working

control car, some history of my wife’s while working

for Blas ar Fywd, I was crossing the border [into

on The Big Breakfast … the South Park wind-up toys

England] and going to amazing stately homes with

are from when the writer and director came over

cheese rooms that could leave it out all day, but

to a masterclass with some script editors in BBC

Environmental Health Wales will only let you put it

drama. If we find anything we like we put it in the

out for four hours and then you’ve got to throw it

shop. The plants are because I got really bored in

away.

January, so I just thought, let’s do some gardening.

I’ve always worked with personalities and

Are there rules around what people can bring

characters in television and I see wines like that.

to eat?

Wines on their own speak for themselves, it’s

We either charge a forkage, or you take your

almost like a monologue. But monologues can be

rubbish home, which is the preferred rule now. You

a bit boring and longwinded unless they’re acted

can bring whatever you want. We’ve had a butane

beautifully by a brilliant performer. If you bring a

gas stove on the table here cooking a paella for

bottle to the stage and add other elements it brings

six people, a barbecue out the back. We’re not a

it to life.

popular area like Manchester where you can have Uber bringing stuff, but we have Just Eat here, and

You mentioned staffing issues after the

there’s an Italian, a deli that’s opened next door, an

pandemic. Is it better now?

Indian, and two fish and chips of course, because

We’ve got a great team now. I worked with great

we’re by the sea.

people in TV, which is a creative industry, and I wanted to make this creative too, because I want it

Another thing you say on your website is that

to be for the long term. As a casting director I was

you’re not a “reserve seats-only” venue but that

meeting people from drama school, seeing them do

the booking system “ensures” guests seats. Can you expand on that distinction?

It’s about getting a balance between booking and passing trade. Because we’re very small, with only 20 seats, we only put half the seats online, so we can let passing trade come in. They’re two-hour slots which is plenty of time to come and have a couple of glasses of wine and eat your own food,

“I’ve always worked with personalities and characters in television and I see wines like that”

their first bit part, then a semi-regular bit part, then a lead regular role, and then seeing them fly. It’s the same with the team here: they go and do WSET training, and then we look at how we can bring them on, and then, where they go next.

Tell us more about Rhos-on-Sea. It’s a great little place for independent businesses.

but some people might only come for an hour

Nothing’s closed for long. There’s always something

before they go and eat somewhere else, so more

else coming in. I remember it as a place of

tables become available.

hairdressers and charity shops but it’s slowly

We also have an overflow room at the back, in

becoming a cool place to be.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 28

Is business mainly locals or is there a tourist

mouth. I think it’s better to just let people have a

trade?

sensual experience, to smell, taste and enjoy.

It’s across the board. We have a lot of loyalty

I’m a great advocate of learning from other

from locals, which we’re eternally grateful for.

people. I’ll sniff out a wine shop like I’m in a Bisto

But word of mouth gets round and we get people coming from Chester to pick wines up to take to their holiday homes. I’ve got customers who’ve mentioned us to relatives in London who then come in when they’re up here to see their aunts and uncles, and say they’d expect to see something like this in London but are surprised to see it here. We hear everyone’s problems, gripes, loves, passions. That’s community, isn’t it? It’s almost like a mini drama every day.

“People tell us we should have a bigger place, but I think if you’re too big you lose the intimacy, aesthetics and heart of the business”

advert when I go on holiday. It’s nice to see how you’re greeted in and what people do differently from you, to see if there are other shops with personality injected into the business. People are coming into a cube full of wine and want to go out smiling.

Are customer-focused events a part of that mix for you?

We’re doing fewer invitational events where we close and people can meet a winemaker. I think

Have you stepped back from beer with the end

with having a wine list that changes every day

of Elementary?

we’re almost telling those stories for customers

We only have two taps. We did have a stronger

anyway. We have had some focus on German

selection of IPAs in the bank vault in a fridge, but

Wine Month or Sherry Week or whatever but

that’s slowly dwindled down. There’s the Craft

we integrate those into a busier day or time on a

Beer Cave locally [in Llandudno] that has 400

Friday or Saturday, socialise them, and talk about

beers, so we tell people that’s the specialist. Let’s

them with the people who are booked in or just

not forget who we are, and that’s being about good

happen to come in.

wines and the passion that I started with. So, I’d

Because it’s quite a small space, with a

say about 99% wine and 1% beer. But it’s nice to

winemaker and all their wines, it’s too tight. People

have a beer fresh on draught at the end of a day.

tell us we should have a bigger place anyway, but I think if you’re too big you lose the intimacy,

Having had wholesale experience in your

aesthetics and heart of the business. The magic is in

previous jobs, is it an element here?

where we are. We’re in a happy place, really.

No. I did a little bit in the old shop – 15, 20 accounts – but we had no storage, so I was ordering every day just to keep the back room going. It’s possibly something [to go back to] in the future, but the margins are getting tighter and tighter.

Working with smaller independent shops and restaurants is where I’d want to take it, but I’d like to see where the next two years goes with EPR and duty, which is a big determining factor for a small business. I’d love to travel and bring wine directly over and choose my own stuff. I’d like to say in five years’ time that I could leave a really good team running this and focus on what I’m bringing in for them.

What about ecommerce?

We contemplated it during Covid, but financially it was: warehouse, storage, inventory manager, and on and on and on. I also think it takes the personality out of a business. I’m very much a faceto-face trader. It’s like when a winemaker comes – it’s amazing because you hear it from the horse’s

Watson says the team hears “everyone’s problems, gripes, loves and passions”

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 29

investment,” she says. “A lot of the

Bullish growers join forces in Crouch Valley

T

he Crouch Valley in Essex is

other local labels.”

investment so far has been self-funded by

There was a time when winemakers

some of the families. It’s not big city people

might have played down the fact they

coming here and planting vineyards,

were sourcing grapes from Essex. But now

necessarily; the majority of it is farmers.”

there’s kudos to namechecking the Crouch

Jackson Family Wines, which is waiting for its 27ha site to come on stream,

Valley on labels, Yesil says.

“If you look at Sugrue’s latest release,

launched its first wine last year – Marbury

the Pinot Noir, it’s got Essex and Crouch

Chardonnay – made with fruit from two

Valley on front label, and he’s very proud to

neighbouring vineyards.

speak about that. And with the formation

“I think they’ve approached it quite

of the Crouch Valley Vineyard Association,

cleverly,” says Yesil. “They haven’t tried to

we’re trying to encourage people to do

be big and flashy. The wine fits in well with

that, and to show we’re not just these

celebrating not only a stellar 2025

random vineyards dotted around. We are a

harvest but the relaunch of its

collective, and you can be part of that, too,

collective of wine growers.

if your fruit is from the Crouch.”

The Crouch Valley Vineyard Association

Yesil’s own vineyard is doubling in size,

promotes and protects the interests of

with another 10 acres being planted, and

around 15 members, at a time when

she’s excited by how quickly the landscape

investment is pouring into the region and

has been transformed.

producers across England are seeking out

“I can’t believe it’s happening right on

the valley’s fruit for their blends.

our doorstep,” she says. “This is where I’ve

The CVVA showcased a selection of

grown up and so have multiple generations

wines made exclusively from local grapes

of my family. And it’s turning into what’s

at the inaugural Crouch Valley Wine Fair

going to be a serious wine region that’s

in November. The region is focused mainly

going to gain international recognition.

on still wines, particularly Pinot Noir and

“What will really make it a wine region,

Chardonnay, which thrive in the Crouch microclimate.

I think, is more wineries, and possibly Umut and Katie Yesil of Riverview

investment for tourism and hospitality.”

“Every year, even if the rest of the country has a bad vintage, the Crouch never seems to suffer,” says Katie Yesil of Riverview Vineyard, who heads up

Halfpenny founder immortalised with Rondo

marketing for the CVVA. “I think we’re at 25 vineyards now in

Halfpenny Green Wine Estate in

quite a small area. It’s the most densely

Staffordshire has launched a limited-edition

planted area of vines in the country. But

commemorative red wine in honour of its

there’s definitely plenty of space to put

late founder, Martin Charles Vickers, one of

more in.”

the most influential and respected figures in

Jackson Family Wines has planted vines

the English wine industry.

in the valley, Dorset-based Lyme Bay Winery has long been embedded locally,

MCV Reserve is a red wine from the 2022

and there is speculation about more

harvest of Rondo grapes.

outsiders bidding for a slice of what Jancis Robinson has called “England’s Côte d’Or”.

In 1983, alongside his son Clive, Vickers

But Yesil does not believe the Crouch

planted 400 vines on a small patch of

Valley – whose success to date has been

the family farm. Today, it has grown into

built mainly by local families and farmers –

a thriving 30-acre vineyard, producing

is about to lose its identity.

hundreds of thousands of bottles each year.

“I think people would welcome

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 30

Martin and Clive Vickers

In association with Condor Wines

Visiting Mt Beautiful in North Canterbury ...

... and Ant Moore in Marlborough

THE CONDOR LANDS IN NEW ZEALAND South American specialist Condor Wines has teamed up with two Kiwi wine producers to enhance its offer to UK indies

C

ondor Wines has spent its first 15

Marlborough and North Canterbury, along

monolith,” he argues. “It isn’t. Visiting New

years honing its expertise as an

with Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling.

Zealand recently really reinforced that for

importer of South American wines.

We are also listing two contrasting Pinot

me; once you’re on the ground, tasting

Noirs and a beautifully vibrant rosé.

in Awatere one day and the Wairau or

Its new adventure in New Zealand “isn’t a shift in direction”, managing director

“The range will sit comfortably in the

and co-founder Lee Evans insists. “It’s a

£13-£21 retail bracket, offering strong

continuation of our journey.”

value for the independent trade without

Condor has teamed up with two New

Waihopai the next, the stylistic differences are unmistakable.

“There is enormous variation in detail,

compromising on quality.”

texture and quality, particularly from

long held a personal fascination for me,”

E

producers who favour delicacy and

Mt Beautiful in North Canterbury (“an

remains strong, but independents need

Evans says.

estate known for its balance, precision and

points of difference – wines with identity,

Zealand producers to launch wines under the Flight of the Condor banner.

“South America will always be at the heart of who we are, but New Zealand has

vans is delighted with the like-

precision over the full-throttle style of the

minded producer partners he has

past.

found in New Zealand. These are

“The demand for Sauvignon Blanc

“A customer request in 2022 led us to

sustainable philosophy”) and Ant Moore in

nuance and a clear story. That first-hand

ship from New Zealand and reawakened

Marlborough, “who farms across Awatere,

understanding is exactly why we chose the

my curiosity about the region. I saw

Waihopai and Wairau, bringing a breadth

producers we did.”

parallels not just in the terrain, but in

of terroir and an energetic, hands-on

the producers’ stories: independent

mindset”.

winemakers, dramatic landscapes, a

The wines are bottled at source.

Flight of the Condor is a project that could eventually involve more New Zealand producers – and, in the longer term, even

flagship variety everyone knows – and

“Provenance and producer integrity are

Australia and South Africa. But Evans is

a depth of character waiting to be

central to how we operate, and bottling

happy to take things slowly.

discovered.”

in New Zealand maintains the character

The initial Flight of the Condor line-up focuses on whites

“Any further expansion will be thoughtful

and stability of the wines exactly as the

rather than rapid. If we find additional

winemakers intend,” Evans says.

wines that genuinely add something to

He rejects the suggestion that the

the portfolio, we’ll consider them. But

and lighter styles,

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc bubble has

it’s about long-term fit and working with

Evans says. “This

burst in the independent trade.

producers whose values align with ours.”

includes Sauvignon

“I think what’s burst is the belief

Blanc from both

that Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is a

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 31

Find out more at condorwines.co.uk

It’s time to enter The Wine Merchant Top 100

Philip Amps

E

ntries are now open for The Wine Merchant Top 100 – the 14th edition of the only competition that’s judged entirely by independent wine retailers.

As always, every wine that’s entered has to be exclusive to the independent trade, which can include on-trade venues as well as shops.

We’re currently in the process of putting this year’s 40-strong judging team together, but our senior panel is in place:

Entry deadline: March 24

Sam Howard

John Chapman

Philip Amps, Amps Wine Merchants, Oundle: A senior judge since the competition’s inception, Philip is an expert taster and a trusted source of advice for other judges who might need a second – or third – opinion.

judges on the page opposite.

Sam Howard, HarperWells, Norwich and Fredricks, Diss: Sam was promoted to the senior team in 2025, having been been part of the hustle and bustle of the tasting on various occasions. Read his advice to new

Judging day: April 20

John Chapman, Oxford Wine Company: Another familiar face from previous competitions, John takes his place on the senior team for the first time in 2026, representing one of the most respected businesses in the independent trade.

The senior panel will be chaired as always by David Williams, Observer wine critic and deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine.

Results announcement: May 18 (London Wine Fair)

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 32

A

t the heart of every independent wine shop is, by definition, independence. I’d bet that a

significant number of the 1,000 or so indies across the country rely on one key person making the majority of wine buying decisions.

A couple of times a year we might head into London or Manchester for one of the big tastings, but rarely do we get the chance to taste alongside our peers and calibrate our palates with some of the best independent shops in the country. That’s why judging the The Wine Merchant Top 100 is such a valuable opportunity, and why you should give it a go.

So, what’s it actually like to be a judge?

First of all, it’s pretty slick. The format has been refined over the years and it Two of our 2025 judges: Jake Bennett-Day of Vino Gusto and Stephanie DiCamillo of Wine & Such

works. You definitely don’t need to be a WSET Diploma holder. There are no tasting grids; no medium-minus tannins to write up.

In the morning, you’ll work in a small team of two or three in a totally collegiate

What’s it like to be a Top 100 judge?

set-up. Together we’ll taste through about

Each year we mix up the tasting panel, meaning most of our judges are first-timers. It's not as daunting as it might seem – which is why everyone who's ever taken part has asked to do it again.

1,000 wines (all blind) and help whittle that down to around 300 or so. You’ll be given flights of 10 to 12 wines to work through. There’s no need to write detailed

Senior judge Sam Howard explains how it works

notes or assign scores – just use your instincts as a buyer. Ask yourself: would I list this wine?

scoring 97 or more is in contention to win

Y

a coveted trophy. ou’ll be told the general style or

You’ll also write a short tasting note, but

grape variety and the suggested

really, it’s not about aromas of crushed

retail price, but really it comes

violets or bramble fruit. It’s more about

down to this: is the price-to-quality ratio

why you liked the wine and why you’d list

good enough for The Wine Merchant Top

it.

100? If yes, it goes through. If not, no

Finally, senior judges will retaste the

Need to know ...

• Any wine can enter if it’s exclusive to indies and imported to the UK. • Even if the wine is sold in a single outlet, it’s welcome to take part.

problem. Every wine that gets rejected is

highest and lowest scoring wines to make

• We need four bottles per entry.

retasted by a senior judge, so the process

sure everything’s in sync across the panel.

stays fair and balanced.

Then the Top 100 is revealed at the London

• The entry fee is £80 per wine – no increase on 2025

And just to be clear, this isn’t a test.

Wine Fair.

It’s all anonymous. Only the statisticians

I truly believe this is one of the best

hidden away in the backroom know what

ways to sharpen your buying instincts,

wines are in which flights.

benchmark your own shelves, and most

Once the initial 300 are selected, the

importantly spend time in a room with

wines are reflighted, then retasted and

a group of like-minded indies. People

scored using the standard 100-point

with shared values, but diverse palates

scale. A wine with a score of 90-91 points

and perspectives, all in a friendly, non-

will probably make the list, and anything

competitive setting.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 33

• All winning wines, and the highly commended entries which just miss out, will be profiled in our Top 100 supplement in July.

• To enter, email claire@ winemerchantmag.com or visit winemerchanttop100.com

The ideas factory London independent Top Cuvée seems to have a never-ending supply of ways to keep its customers engaged and enthused – some crazier than others. At a time when indies know that survival means much more than simply opening the door and waiting for sales to happen, the business sets a new standard for proactive marketing.

By Claire Harries

T

op Cuvée has built a brand personality that expresses community,

we knew we had to do something.

“Fortunately, we’d been trading long

Top Cuvée’s social media is full of images of people queuing outside its

neighbourhood and relentless

enough to have built a small community

shops in Highgate and Shoreditch, smiling

positivity. Under the leadership of founder

that really backed us. We pivoted into

customers brandishing merch, videos

Brodie Meah, there is a consistent flow

retail, didn’t really know what we were

of the team making vermouth, labelling

of engagement with customers, creating

doing, but sold everything from our cellar

bottles, or performing irreverent skits.

experiences that often go beyond the core

on day one. We bought stock from other

From Easter egg hunts to a Tour de

business of wine retail.

restaurants that needed cash and I used my

France-inspired bike ride, the ideas are

experience as a bike courier to get stuck in

varied. Meah says the business has done

with deliveries.

things that haven’t worked so well in the

This imaginative approach is paying dividends. Meah has his sights set firmly on further growth, through the wholesaling of Top Cuvée products as well as more shops.

“We got amazing feedback during this

past but in true glass-half-full style, he

period and I really believe that all the

chooses not to dwell on those less bright

Meah is unflinchingly optimistic but

positivity we experienced from the trade

ideas, focusing instead on the successes.

admits this wasn’t always the case. “I was

as a whole, and our customers, throughout

quite an introverted, cynical person by

Covid gave us our core values.

nature,” he says, “and I made a choice to be

“It turns out that positive messaging and

positive because of Covid. That period of

spreading joy is a good way to do business

time formed what Top Cuvée is now and

– and it’s a good way to live your life.”

“As a business we’ve learned it’s good doing all this stuff and experimenting,” he explains.

“You find things that work, and then you do them again. And I think that’s where

I’m happy to say it completely changed me

we’re at now as a business. We’re not really

as a person as well.”

starting too much new stuff, but reiterating

Top Cuvée started life as a restaurant in Highbury, north London, before the pandemic turned things upside down.

“It could have been really bad, but actually, I think things worked out really well,” says Meah. “We were young enough as a business that we had a lot of energy and, as we didn’t have any cash reserves,

“As a business we’ve learned it’s good doing all this stuff and experimenting. You find things that work, and then you do them again” THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 34

what we do well and doing it better and bigger and at scale.

“The goal is every city, every fridge, wine for everyone. We intend to get there by growing our wholesale operation, growing the branded products, and growing the volume of our portfolio sales, which in turn will fund more store openings.”

Tour de Cuvée “During lockdown, all the professional bike couriers, the cool ones you see riding around central London delivering legal letters and stuff, were all out of work,” says Meah. “So we employed them to do our wine deliveries, which gave us a real edge, because they were so fast and professional.

“They came with a wealth of knowledge and experience that was pretty crazy.

We couldn’t have done it without them. Anyway, someone suggested we deliver to Brighton and we put it on Instagram the day before. A couple of the bike couriers, some guys from the shop, and me, all got on our bikes and went.

“We were doing it for ourselves because we were working super-hard, and it was a nice excuse to go to Brighton. We had so many messages on the day and the following year we put it on social media again saying, ‘if you fancy it, come down, meet us at the shop at 7am’. I think 250 people turned up. We tended to execute our ideas in a pretty lo-fi way, but by the third year we partnered with British Cycling and now it’s all ticketed.”

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 35

Easter egg hunt

bags and T-shirts.

departments who will approach you with

“The Easter egg hunt really showed us that

“Everything on our shelves now is either

‘an opportunity to collaborate’, and you

you can promote your business and your

a private label or direct import,” says Meah.

get excited and it sounds great, and then

brand without making it totally product-

“We’ve got a pretty big network of growers,

what you find is you end up funding it or

centric,” says Meah. “There is a dark side

producers and brokers. When it started,

doing all the work. This is not the case with

to the alcohol industry and although

we were bottling it from kegs, but now it’s

Tony’s and I really hope our partnership

the reality of independent merchants is

bottled in France. We’re working on getting

with them continues.”

nowhere near that, we are still mindful in

enough volume so we can start bottling it

our messaging, and we thought it would be

again in the UK, but in a bigger facility.

good to have Top Cuvée talked about as a thing that’s family friendly.

Scratchcards

“Mulled wine is absolutely huge for us. It

“How do we get people through the doors

flies in October, November and December.

in January? It can be a bit of a struggle.

“We invite people to come down and

“Our sales team is doing a great job, and

In the past we’ve always emailed people

start at the shop. The numbers this year

our products are starting to pick up some

with a ‘hey, thanks for coming in during

were about 2,000 and the queue snaked

momentum. It feels like we’re reaching a

December, show us this email and we’ll

around the whole block.

point where other indies are seeing our

give you 10% off your bill in January’.

“It’s a digital scavenger hunt around

products in other venues that are cool. I

the local area, which includes loads of

feel our growth strategy really is to build

to make it a bit more tangible, and we

fun challenges. We include things in

genuine communities like ours via our

thought a scratchcard given to customers

the directives like picking up litter and

products.”

in December offering a 10%, 25%, 50%

discounts for local businesses, because

“That works pretty well, but we wanted

discount, redeemable in our restaurant or

community, and you have to think of the

Collaboration with Tony’s Chocolonely

residents and other shops, so we try and

“Tony’s are really great. This [the Top

than straightforward discounting, plus it’s

get everyone involved.”

Cuvée branded chocolate bars] really

something they are more likely to keep in

came about through the Easter egg hunt.

their wallet.”

we're bringing so many people into the

Branded products

They just get behind it and sponsor us

wine bar, would be a bit of fun.

“The gamification of it is much cooler

In addition to glass bottles, the house red,

and I’m so grateful for that. To be honest,

Tag a friend

white, rosé and orange wines are also

partnering with these big brands, when

“This is a social media thing that we’ve

sold in 1.5-litre bags, and there’s a range

you’re a small independent, isn’t easy.

been doing some sort of variation of since

of canned wines. Aside from wine and

We’ve learnt through experience that

day one. Everyone knows referrals and

vermouth, merchandise includes candles,

there are big companies with marketing

word of mouth is the best way to grow

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 36

your business. It’s just an in-house video of

random non-followers, perhaps because

Beaujolais Nouveau

someone drinking wine and inviting you to

they’re in central London. It gets new

“Beaujolais Nouveau has been a hugely

tag a friend.

people to come into our venue and engage

commercially successful event for us every

with the brand, and it grows the audience

year. It’s a bit of a no-brainer and an excuse

online.”

for a party.

“I think what’s really cool about this is it feeds into the sociability of wine and the connections we make. By sharing it

“We have our own Beaujolais Nouveau and this year we will really be focusing on

you’re thinking about them and it gives

Video series on wine misconceptions

you a dopamine hit of ‘I sent my friend

“We’re all about making wine accessible,

into the trade and helping them organise

something nice, so I feel good’. It’s a

so that’s what these little videos are about.

parties.

conduit between you and a friend – ‘hey, I

There is a section of the industry that

see you’ – and it promotes our business at

would think that this kind of content is

and providing them with a bit of a

the same time.”

stupid and really basic, but consumers

blueprint of how to have a successful

really value this super-simple information.

Beaujolais Nouveau event.

with your friend it demonstrates that

Gift card hunt

our wholesale partners and pushing that

“We’ll be giving them more information

“Things like how to hold a wine glass or

“We do get older people coming in

“This one is a little more to do with looking

explaining orange wine are obvious ones

saying, ‘right, where’s the Nouveau?’ and

at the mechanics of social media and how

that spring to mind. Another big one is,

then being shocked that it’s not £4.50. But

posts spread.

what is corked wine – what does it mean?

we’re seeing a younger generation getting

“People who work in the industry forget

on board because it tastes good and the

“We show a video, usually of our social media manager who might be in Soho, for

that we’re experts. Customers can

example. You just see her hands holding a

be too embarrassed to ask, but that’s

“My tips would be to make sure that

£20 gift card for the shop. The video will

what’s really good about our team,

you focus on the vibe; the energy should

show her hiding the card and that’s it.

because they’re up for it, and they put

be loose and free. Don’t take it too

“It’s all about what happens in the

themselves out there, and they’re all

seriously, and keep it simple. Get your

background of social media. People might

young people working in the shop,

invites sorted, and don’t forget you

recognise a friend’s office or know they

so it’s not coming from a place of

really have to remind people to come

will be near that location, and they’ll start

superiority either.

down to these things.

sharing. Those videos get shared massively,

“The way that they film the

quality is great.

“Most importantly,” Meah advises,

which in turn drives the algorithm to push

videos is very much like a

“don’t try opening at 10am –

that out to more people. We can see all of

conversational thing rather than a

because nobody really wants to do

this in the analytics and it’s getting seen by

lecturing thing.”

that.”

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 37

Masters

Cecchi’s Aminta estate in Montalcino

Of

MALBEC

Alberto Arizu was in London recently, pouring some of Bodega Luigi Bosca’s top wines for trade and press.

The Wine Merchant enjoyed a mini masterclass From left: winemaker Pablo Cuneo, Alberto Arizu and Alberto Arizu Jr

in the world. Alberto Arizu should

T

“But people today are looking for more

Alberto’s view is that it’s important not to

know. As a fourth-generation

drinkable and fresher wine. So we’re trying

dazzle people with too much geography,

member of the dynasty behind Bodega

to maintain the softness, the velvet palate,

especially if they haven’t got a mental map

Luigi Bosca, his family makes quite a lot of it.

the rounded tannins of Malbec, but with

of Argentina and aren’t familiar with the

Famously, Alberto says that “we didn’t

more fresh black and red fruit rather than

place names. Ultimately, the wines need to

just riper fruit.”

speak for themselves, and their differences

here is some really excellent Malbec

choose Malbec – Malbec chose us”. The variety thrives in Mendoza, and Luigi Bosca’s pioneering precision agriculture brings out its best qualities.

“People liked it, absolutely,” Alberto says.

Alberto gestures to the wines on the table before us.

“We’re going to taste four Malbecs, and

be time-consuming and confusing.

and nuances are never more apparent than when they’re tasted side by side.

“For whatever reason, Malbec found in

So the viticulturists and winemaking

each one comes from a different place,”

Argentina the perfect conditions to grow,

team have done much of the hard work,

he says. “You will find absolutely different

very different from the soils of Cahors,

creating a range of terroir-driven wines

characters in each one, and that is the

which tend to give the wines some rusticity

with balance as well as complexity. The

fantastic thing about Malbec.

and very hard tannins,” Alberto says.

job now is to persuade more people in the

“So we have wines for every consumer

“In Mendoza we have almost 300 days

trade – and their customers – to abandon

without losing any of our values in the

of sunlight per year, great conditions, so

preconceptions and to explore what

market. Still rich, fruity, easy-drinking

Malbec is able to show a different character

Malbec can achieve in the right hands.

wine with this beautiful soft palate. But

depending on what type of soil it’s on.”

you have more freshness and more energy

Malbec will continue to be Luigi Bosca’s

that we’ve been producing for the last

“The challenge is to show the Malbecs

coming from the mountains; very beautiful

calling card. But Alberto is also keen to talk

20, 30 years; wines from special places,”

elegance and finesse coming from Luján

about Chardonnay (indeed he predicts that

Alberto says. “Wines with a fresh character,

de Cuyo. We have a very deep wine with

the proportion of white wines will increase

not the jammy, ripe fruit style of Malbec

a more floral character coming from

from 20% to nearer 30% in the next

that we used to produce in Argentina and

Altamira. This very unique Malbec [Los

decade or so) and Cabernet Sauvignon.

sold for a long time.”

Nobles] comes from Vistalba.”

Even though many consumers quite liked that jammy style?

Explaining these differences to consumers, and indeed the trade, can

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 38

As our mini-tasting in London revealed, Semillon, Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are also firmly in the mix.

Chardonnay Insignia, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2024, RRP £18 Available in other markets for some time, this easy-drinking white has only recently made its UK debut. The grapes are grown at altitude in the Uco Valley, with cold mountain air giving the vines a welcome rest after their daytime sun.

“It’s a perfect wine for the UK market,” says Alberto. “You prefer fresh white wines.

For many years, Argentina has made very classic, creamy Chardonnay with a lot of makeup; a lot of wood. Here you have a more transparent, more defined wine, supported by fresh acidity.

“Just one third of the wine has been fermented in barrels and aged for six months in French oak, and the rest of the wine goes to the tanks. We avoid malolactic fermentation to preserve the really fresh fruit.”

White Blend De Sangre, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2024, RRP £24 White blends are still quite rare in Argentina, and this one – from fruit grown in Gualtallary, El Peral and Tupungato in the Uco Valley – allows the winemaker’s art to take centre stage.

Half the blend is Chardonnay, with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc making up the balance. “The 2024 Semillon was amazing, so this was the first year it’s been a bigger component than Sauvignon Blanc,” says Alberto. “We like the lemon peel character it has in the Uco Valley.

“The wine has a beautiful fresh character that people like a lot, especially when you combine that with a creamy palate.

The personality of the wine is driven

by Chardonnay, but I also like the way Sauvignon Blanc adds some green, herbal notes. It’s a very successful and gastronomic wine.”

Malbec Uco Valley De Sangre, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2022, RRP £26 A complex and intense mountain Malbec, but elegant at the same time.

“This is the first Malbec we made in the Uco Valley,” says Alberto. “We bought the land 25 years ago and planted it with a massal selection of six Malbec clones from the old vines from our original vineyards in Luján de Cuyo.

“We found we created a wine with a different vigour, a different energy, to Luján de Cuyo. On the nose it’s a little deeper, with a nice freshness and a beautiful spicy character.

“I call this wine ‘a new origin for a legend’.”

Malbec DOC De Sangre, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2023, RRP £26 “This is a more classic wine, with a soft palate and velvety texture,” says Alberto.

“The grapes come from Las Compuertas, Vistalba and Agrelo. The soils are more compact and almost sandy, the yield is naturally much lower, and the fruit ripens more consistently.

“This Malbec has more finesse. It has plums, cassis and all the red fruits. It ages for one year, part in barrels and part in bottle.

“You feel in the mouth that it’s totally different. The first Malbec was more vertical; this one invades all of your palate.”

Malbec Altamira Edicion Limitada De Sangre, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2022, RRP £26 This Malbec comes from a vineyard called Miralejos, planted at 1,050 metres in the heart of Paraje Altamira. “It’s probably my family’s best-kept secret,” says Alberto.

“It’s a place that we discovered 30 years ago with incredible genetic material from vines planted 60 years ago. So we found ancient plants in a relatively new place.

We love it.”

Luigi Bosca spent 10 years renewing the vineyard, preserving as many old vines as it could, and now produces this limitededition wine from vines yielding just three tonnes per hectare.

“The aroma is very floral, with some lavender, but there’s a very mineral texture in the mouth,” says Alberto. There’s

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 39

freshness and tension too, and a long finish.

Los Nobles Malbec, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2021, RRP £61 This “special wine” from Vistalba in Luján de Cuyo contains a 6% element of Petit Verdot. The wines have an average age of 30 years and are grown at 1,026 metres.

“Vistalba is very interesting because again, the soils are very compact and we have the chance to have a very beautiful ripening,” says Alberto. “That translates into better texture and roundness and smooth tannins.

“So for us it’s a perfect place, and the style of wine it makes is fantastic.

Even though the wine is dense and concentrated and a little bit complex in the mouth, there is a soft mid palate and it’s easy drinking. The fruit is not too ripe.

We’re careful to keep a fresh character, which is the hallmark of my family.”

Paraíso, Bodega Luigi Bosca 2021, RRP £111 Paraíso is described as Luigi Bosca’s most important wine, made with grapes from the family’s best plots across the Uco Valley. The blend is around 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wine was first made in 2019 – a cool year in Argentina – but in 2021 the conditions were perfect for a wine that combines richness with freshness.

“The most interesting thing about the wine is its depth,” says Alberto. “It has a very long aftertaste. But it’s easy drinking and all the tannins are soft.”

It is, he says, a wine designed to “transcend time” – and even though it’s showing beautifully now, it has superb ageing potential.

Published in association with Bodega Luigi Bosca and Bancroft Wines Visit luigibosca.com or bancroftwines.com for more information

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Alternative rosé was the theme for this month’s Wine Merchant editorial panel tasting: alternative meaning anything that isn’t Provencal or made from the traditional Provencal varieties.

Any variations on style, variety and origin were welcomed with open arms. Here’s our top 12.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 40

1 Il Borghetto Monty Sangiovese 2021, IGT Toscana Alliance Wine, RRP £25.95 The playful sketch of a dog on the label, which we assume could be Monty himself, acts as a method of deception. Because what lies beneath is one of the most serious rosé wines you could ever have the pleasure of trying. Endlessly complex; one minute it’s balsamico seeping into dried earth and tomato plants watered with blood, then it’s orange peel and candle wax, smoke tainted flowers and stone fruit compote. Mesmerising.

2 Domaine Petroni 2024, Corsica Cachet Wine, RRP £16.99 This is proof that, with the right interpretation of the Provence template, wines with individuality and character can still prevail. By using the indigenous Corsican varieties of Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu, this island wonder has a thirst quenching maritime identity. Lined with a nervy mineral edge; salt-flecked nettles and a bouquet of honest, understated fruit.

3 Camissa Avondale 2023, Paarl Cachet Wine, RRP £19.95 Through the elegant packaging Camissa shows its subtle golden hues, looking more like an aged Montrachet than a rosé. A majority of Muscat provides a deft floral lift, like roses but with stems, thorns, leaves, petals and all. There’s white peach, melon and golden apples with a chalky line of citrus that pierces the finish. A fruit depth that speaks of Paarl heat.

4 Juan Gil 2023, Jumilla Boutinot, RRP £19.95 With the Japanese blossom label not too popular with the panel, Juan Gil had a bit of legwork to do with the juice, legwork that proved to be of the tastefully oxidative type. Dried cranberries and yellow raisins, almonds and blood orange peel … it races through the gears confidently, with snap of bitter oversteer on the finish, all brushed off with a cheeky little smile. An eccentric, and all the more loveable for it.

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5 Blackbook I’d Rather Be a Rebel 2021, England Hallgarten & Novum Wines, RRP £32.75 The label, which wouldn’t look out of place on an IPA can, receives a mixed reception. But if predictable is the word used for the label, the same can’t be said for the wine. This is an unashamedly idiosyncratic. Smoked paprika dashed on grilled meat, dried apricots wrapped in autumn leaves, bruised apples waiting to be dressed up as Brittany cidre. There’s a bonfire in here and it feels like a pagan one.

6 Produttori di Manduria Aka Primitivo 2024, Puglia Alliance Wine, RRP £17.95 If the colour palate of Provence rosé is a spring catwalk, the complexion of Aka is someone who’s happy for their partner to dress them: not interested in fashion, and quite frankly has better things to do. And those better things taste like a smash of sweet Puglian fruit. Juicy red apples and strawberries are seasoned in spiced orange zest, liquorice and crushed pink peppercorns.

7 Longavi Glup 2023, Maule Valley, Chile Walker & Wodehouse, RRP £14.95 For all of its serious credentials, like Cape Winemakers’ Guild member David Nieuwoudt being involved with the making of this rosado, sourced from 100-year-old dry farmed bush vines in Maule, it’s about as unserious as wine can get. A cartoony label, drumstick lollies on the nose and lemon sherbet on the finish would usually place a wine somewhere well outside of our top 12, but in terms of alternative rosé this couldn’t be more fitting.

8 Castel Serranova Susumaniello 2024, Salento IGT Boutinot, RRP £13.95 As far as indigenous Italian deep cuts go, Susumaniello would leave a pretty decent scar. This ancient Salento native, once on the brink of extinction, now thrives on the Serranova estate. Rather like Tizer in appearance – or shall we say pink with orange hues – it’s vibrant and fresh with constant nods to darker, plusher fruit. There’s some salinity and minerality on the finish too. Great value.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 43

9 Muses Estate A.Muse 2023, Greece Hallgarten & Novum Wines, RRP £23.75 In Greek mythology, the Muses were nine daughters of Zeus who brought forgetfulness of pain and obligation to the people through art – and enough of this wine on a placid summer’s day would likely result in a similar divine amnesia. Born out of the same Mount Helicon land where the daughters once dwelled, the altitude chimes with this wonderfully lean, mineral-driven rosé, steeped in historical importance.

10 Niepoort Redoma 2023, Douro Halo Wines, RRP £21 When it comes to labelling, it’s hard to find a producer to rival Niepoort. Just as comfortable with anti-establishment as it is with tradition, its branding is an embodiment of an inspiring range of wines for all attitudes and pocket depths. Pulsating with a scorched blossom reduction, Redoma deals lashings of strawberries and cream, rhubarb and white pepper preserve with wild herbs growing amidst the smoke.

11 Contreras Ruiz Clavellina 2024, Condado de Huelva DO Alliance Wine, RRP £11.95 Clavellina presents itself in a label more suited to the design on your grandma’s 80th birthday card. But that aside, in a world where £11.95 unlikely to get you anything remotely worth talking about, this reinstalls hope. Not the most complex wine in the line-up nor the most intense, but it shows plenty of Syrah character with loads of blueberries, violets and black pepper and remarkable freshness and generosity.

12 Estevez Versos 2021, Bierzo DO Walker & Wodehouse, RRP £15.95 By far the most divisive wine in the tasting, but if there’s one thing that is for certain: this wine won’t win any awards for quietness. Instead, it’s accused of screaming in the face of one panellist with its incitement to chaos and violence.

And yet there’s something endearing about it. Like tree bark drying in the sun, cranberries cured in salt, cherries glazed in salted caramel and wormwood soaked in olive brine.

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five wizardS OF OZ A handful of wines from Australian producers who add an extra dimension to the country’s winemaking scene

1 Bulman Wines Gary’s Vineyard RRP £50.60 (Indigo Wine)

Mark Bulman won the Jimmy Watson trophy in 2017 and his prize was a trip to Gigondas. He loved the idea of the single-vineyard Grenache he found in this part of the southern Rhône, but not necessarily the full-on, extracted style. He resolved to make something more delicate and refined on his home turf.

Gary’s Vineyard is at Blewitt Springs in McLaren Vale, producing “herbal, spicy wines with notes of sage and ginger”, according to Indigo. The ironstone conglomerate soil, 200m above sea level, required hacking with a sledgehammer to get the vines planted.

The grapes spend 71 days on skins after fermentation, followed by 178 days ageing in a sandstone amphora.

2 From Sunday Skins RRP £25 (Nekter Wines)

An orange wine from Orange in New South Wales, made by carbonic maceration from organic Pinot Gris grapes. From Sunday consists of three friends who produce quirky, minimal-intervention wines across Australia. “These are the wines they talked and dreamt of making over late night sessions at university,” Nekter says. “Weird blends, unconventional winemaking techniques and experimental batches.” Also check out Nueva Sangria (carbonated skin-contact Murray-Darling Pinot Gris infused with apple, lime and orange oils) and, from the Hunter Valley, Lucky’s Syrah-Pinot Noir: “Nekter’s bestselling red, hands down!”

3 Ravensworth Hilltops Nebbiolo RRP £49 (Graft Wine Co)

Hilltops GI is quickly becoming an embassy for aspirational Italian blow-ins, with Nebbiolo leading the mission alongside Barbera, Corvina and Sangiovese.

Ravensworth is one of the producers welcoming these expeditionists with open arms and inquisitive minds. Formerly of Clonakilla, winemaker Bryan Martin uses this more moderate, high-altitude pocket of New South Wales to express Nebbiolo abroad. The winemaking is nonetheless Piemontese, with old foudres playing the main role. “Distinctly floral, layered with red fruit and a slight gamey twist,” says Graft.

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DISCOVER THE SIGNATURE SERIES

BY ROBERT OATELY

Multi-award winning single region, varietal wines - modern, fine and approachable wines made from classic varieties from Australia’s best wine regions.

SIGNATURE SERIES RIESLING Great Southern

Great Southern is an up-and-coming region in Western Australia. Its relatively cool climate is ideal for Riesling, producing here a softly textured, crisp, lemon-lime flavoured wine.

SIGNATURE SERIES PINOT NOIR Victoria

Victoria has gained a solid reputation for Pinot Noir.

This intense, juicy, wild strawberry and cherry scented wine certainly shows why.

SIGNATURE SERIES SHIRAZ McLaren Vale

Accessible, ripe, juicy Shiraz with notes of blueberries, spice and soft tannins. A well-loved style from selected specialist Shiraz vineyards throughout the Vale.

Contact Hatch Mansfield, the exclusive UK importer of Robert Oately wines. info@hatch.co.uk | hatchmansfield.com

five wizardS OF OZ 4 Silent Noise Uva di Troia

RRP £17.95 (Antipodean Sommelier) Growing up in a winery, the noise of tractors, trucks, people and vinous machinery became commonplace for Silent Noisemaker in chief Charlie O’Brien. And this taught him to appreciate the noise that wine goes on to make in silence, on the nose and palate.

The fruit is sourced from Australia’s only commercial vineyard of Puglian variety Uva di Troia. O’Brien describes his expression as “a swirling kaleidoscope of fruit flavours”.

He adds: “Think white cherries, yellow peaches and strawberries. Floral notes enchant and cheeky red frogs poke their heads up. These delicious flavours linger on and on.”

5 Castagna Genesis Syrah RRP £65 (Les Caves de Pyrene)

Castagna embodies everything you would expect from a small biodynamic farm producing only 1,800 cases of wine a year. At 500m above sea level in the heart of the Australian Alps, everything is done by hand with very little electricity. Ferments are natural and pressing is done only with a basket press, new oak is kept to a minimum and the wines are never fined or filtered.

Les Caves de Pyrene says: “Castagna is clearly making wines of philosophy and of place. His wines defy the stereotypes of Australian wine as big, overoaked fruit bombs.”

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Vinham Wines is the exclusive UK agent for Innocent Bystander Winemakers Based in Yarra Valley, Innocent Bystander’s range includes the sweet and juicy Sparkling Moscato Rosé; the complex and textural Naturally Innocent Field Blend White; citrusdriven French-style Pinot Gris; sophisticated, serene and perfectly poised Chardonnay; Rhône-style Syrah (aka Shiraz!); a layered and complex Pinot Noir; and the singlevineyard Mea Culpa Pinot Noir.

3 South Street, Caistor, Lincolnshire LN7 6UB

Tel: 01472 289766

vinhamwines.co.uk

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 49

info@vinhamwines.co.uk

who are you calling new world?

Tom Louden of Substrata Wines in Norwich celebrates the ancient roots of modern Australian winemaking

S

elling Australian wine in the UK isn’t easy, especially in and around an Ashes series. It’s easier when people have travelled there; that’s how we rediscovered Australian wine.

In 2018 we harvested in Tasmania and spent some time on the

mainland, experiencing the vibrant and unpretentious cellar-door culture.

There’s an enormous network of small independent producers, whose portfolios are all too rarely exported to the UK. Instead, we see lots of mass-produced wines, often created specifically for the UK market. This leads to reductive conceptions of Australian wine in the UK. We import from Barossa Valley, which boasts one of the highest concentrations of centenarian and own-rooted vitis vinifera vines anywhere in the world, so it’s incongruous to call it new world.

We’re an acutely tiny importer; our primary Australian producer is Smallfry Wines, who make low intervention or natural wines in Barossa Valley. Their vineyard is one of the early plantings in the region, dating back to the 1850s, so we often talk about history and lineage to contextualise the wines.

The natural wine scene in Barossa is small, and Smallfry isn’t representative: Wayne Ahrens and Suzi Hilder harvest early to capture natural acidity, to keep the wine style fresh and the alcohol level low. They specialise in lighter, chillable reds and orange wines, making fields blends as frequently as single varietal wines.

V

arietal labelling of Australian wines has stopped many UK customers from engaging with the varied geography of the country’s wine regions. Barossa Valley’s history and warm

climate is hugely different from the relatively nearby Adelaide Hills, but many UK consumers think of Australia as an amorphously hot land of Shiraz, despite the high-quality sparkling being made in Adelaide Hills and Tasmania.

Our approach to selling Australian wine is to root the wines in a deeper history than the flying winemaker movement of the 1970s, and to highlight the wealth of small independent producers making wines that are not only accessible and clean but also site-specific.

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Harvesting, and cellaring, at Smallfry in Barossa Valley

Five minutes with …

Jo Nash

Chief winemaker at McPherson Wines What’s been happening at McPherson since we were last in touch in 2024?

A lot. We’ve worked on and launched several new products in line with consumer and market insights, including Don’t Tell Gary Chardonnay (and yes, we managed to keep this one hidden from the accountant again), and our (Australia only) Twist’d Spritz in Blood Orange and Lemon which is a very different approach to anything else in the McPherson range.

We’ve also relaunched our MWC range, showcasing our ethos of making wine with care. We’ve been fine-tuning our wines and working closely with our growers to ensure we continue bringing everyone the best wines we can make.

Which varieties have you been enjoying working with the most, and which ones are giving you trouble?

I’ve found myself particularly drawn to those that show vibrant character and respond well to thoughtful winemaking.

DtG Chardonnay has been a clear favourite – there’s nothing more romantic than crafting a barrel-fermented Chardonnay, especially when it can be done without commercial constraints. On the other hand, Pinot Noir continues to be the toughest variety to handle; it’s the most sensitive red variety and can quickly turn into a simple dry red if you don’t use kid gloves and treat it with exceptional care. We’ll launch a Pinot Noir into the McPherson Family range mid 2026, with the first UK samples to be shown at the Australia Trade Tastings in January.

Have you been experimenting with anything interesting lately, or seeing

results from previous innovations?

Don’t Tell Gary Chardonnay has been a great example of experimentation paying off. By focusing on barrel fermentation and letting the vineyard express itself without commercial and time constraints, we’ve been able to explore new layers of complexity and elegance, and the results have been very rewarding.

Do you ever think that the matrix of possibilities for every wine you make is almost infinite? How do you stop your head exploding?

By trusting my instincts. After 20 years of making wine, I’ve gotten it wrong before I got it right, and that experience has built a foundation of learning that guides my decisions and keeps my head from exploding amid all those possibilities.

What review for any of your wines sticks in your mind more than all the others?

The original review of the DtG Shiraz, which scored 95+. That early recognition was particularly memorable and meaningful, affirming the work and passion that goes into every bottle we make. Plus it also helped get it past Gary when he found out about the project!

Is Gary now happy for you to splash the cash on things like expensive barrels?

Gary is retired now, so what he doesn’t know won’t hurt him, but the challenge is getting past the new accountant, who is even more frugal. Expensive barrels and other investments now require a bit more negotiation!

McPherson is a family-owned winery in Victoria, established in 1968. It’s best known for Don’t Tell Gary, a premium Shiraz produced secretively to avoid spooking the accountant Scan the QR to watch Jo introducing DtG Chardonnay Sponsored feature UK importer: Lanchester Wines Do you think Australian wines get the recognition they deserve in export markets, especially the UK? I think Australian wines receive a fair amount of attention in export markets when they are present, as people are generally willing to try them. However, it’s easy to be forgotten if you’re not actively there. From my experience, the UK consumer and trade are always open to exploring new wines, which makes it a promising market.

What would you like to achieve next at McPherson?

The next goals are to continue growing and gaining recognition for our McPherson Wines, as well as to expand sales more broadly across other international markets.

Three wines to explore “Don’t Tell Gary Chardonnay is a barrel-fermented wine that showcases rich, complex flavours while expressing the vineyard’s character. Don’t Tell Gary Shiraz is bold and structured, with depth and intensity that reflects careful vineyard selection and winemaking. Both wines are not constrained by commercials, but rather focused on the winemaking journey. MWC Pinot Noir is delicate yet vibrant, highlighting elegance and finesse, and demonstrating our commitment to crafting expressive wines.”

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I

like Australian wines a lot, which I believe means I’m out of style. That doesn’t bother me in the least.

In my youth, I guzzled Wolf Blass Yellow

Label Cabernet Sauvignon with abandon.

When I first lived in Tokyo, I drank Yellow Tail Shiraz, with Japanese beer serving as a pleasant aperitif before the main event.

Eventually I moved on to the really good stuff.

One such wine was the Peter Lehmann Mentor Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, from Barossa. I hoovered up stock of it when I worked at Majestic Wine. I remember opening one of my last bottles the first time I had Covid. I couldn’t really taste it, and it could be argued that I squandered a fine bottle of wine, but it cheered me up enormously.

I told Brett Schutz, the senior winemaker at Peter Lehmann Wines, about my enthusiasm for the 2014 Mentor when I had the good fortune to taste with him recently. This happy turn of events was occasioned by Peter Lehmann switching importer, from Liberty to Boutinot.

Like the other wines in the Peter Lehmann Masters Collection, the Mentor Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 matured for five years before release. Well, almost. I sampled it in September, so you work that out.

The Cabernet fruit comes mostly from the north of the Barossa Valley and the wine had more of a menthol, eucalyptus tinge than I remembered in the 2014. (I was told that, contrary to my assumptions, the eucalyptus flavour is more common in the Barossa Valley than in Coonawarra.)

I asked Schutz if eight years after the vintage was the ideal time to drink the Mentor, for I had gone through Majestic’s stock of the 2014 like a wrecking ball in 2022, and it was hard to believe it could have improved beyond that point in time.

He said that he thought the wine would have been even better a couple of years later. I made a solemn vow to refrain from drinking the 2021 until the 2030s. Given that I’ve never succeeded in holding on to a bottle for longer than 18 months, however,

Senior winemaker Brett Schutz

how long can you leave Lehmann?

Don’t be in a rush to open some of Australia’s favourite wines, Michael Walker is advised

it’s reasonable to doubt my resolve.

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T

here are two whites in the Masters Collection, the Wigan Riesling and the Margaret Semillon. Apparently,

Barossa Semillon was a big seller for Peter

Win a fortnight Down Under

Lehmann a few decades ago, before it was eclipsed by the “Savalanche” from New Zealand.

The Margaret Semillon 2017 is “still quite tight”, in the words of Schutz. It does indeed have an awful lot of acidity.

I asked when it would hit its sweet spot, and the answer was 15 to 20 years after

Wine Australia is offering independent off-trade buyers an opportunity to win a two-week trip to Australia in autumn 2026.

To enter, buyers must attend one of the Australia and New Zealand 2026 trade tastings in London (January 27), Edinburgh (January 29) or Dublin (February 3).

time (and patience)”, or so I read on the

The second criterion for entry is to submit a written response to the two following questions: what is the opportunity for Australian wine in your business, and how would you utilise a visit to Australia to raise the profile of Australian wine?

Peter Lehmann website. No kidding.

Entries close on February 20.

the harvest, or “crush”, as I think they say in Australia. The wine “requires significant

The Wigan Riesling I sampled was from 2018, a high acid vintage. The fruit was grown in the Eden Valley, which is next to the Barossa Valley and a prime source of Riesling. According to Schutz, the Wigan reaches its peak about 10 years after the harvest. He said that it doesn’t retain its structure as well as the Semillon, so it isn’t as long-lived.

London: Tuesday, January 27 RHS Lindley Hall, Elverton Street SW1P 2QW Edinburgh: Thursday, January 29 Sheraton Grand Hotel, 1 Festival Square EH3 9SR Dublin: Tuesday, February 3 The Alex Hotel, 41-47 Fenian Street For more information visit australianwine.com

“Is the writing on the wall for Australian Shiraz?” asked The Drinks Business in January. If so, it’s further proof that our civilisation is in a downward spiral.

The Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz is the winery’s flagship. The average age of the vines used for the wine is around 50 years, and some of the fruit is from vines planted in 1893. The ageing potential of the wine is considerable: Schutz said the 2010 and 2012 still need time.

It was very interesting tasting the 2018 alongside the Masters Collection Eight Songs Shiraz 2021, for I detected a significant difference in tannins. The tannins from the Stonewell were far more evident on my front teeth, despite it being three years older. Even so, the Eight Songs Shiraz should last for 20 years.

I went to the Barossa Valley once, on a minibus tour. We visited four wineries, none of which I remember. One of them may have been Peter Lehmann, but maybe not. My main recollection is not of the estates, but of my fellow tourists: they were all Brits. I suppose Australian wine was a lot trendier back in the day.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 53

Does it still feel like Margaret River is something of a new frontier for winemaking?

Margaret River is still young in global wine terms, but it’s achieved a huge amount in a short time. Growing up at Moss Wood, it’s always felt like a place where things are still being discovered and refined.

That sense of possibility is still here.

We’re not weighed down by strict regional regulations, so there’s room to explore and keep improving the styles we’re known for.

And with the region so focused on quality, everyone is pushing to get better each year.

If that desire for constant improvement

Don’t be in a rush t favourite wines, M

is what defines a frontier, then yes – Margaret River still feels like one.

Is there kinship among Margaret River producers, and a shared purpose, or is maybe the strength of the region that you all do your own thing?

It’s a bit of both. There’s a real sense of camaraderie here and plenty of shared enthusiasm for learning and improving together. But each vineyard is its own world, and what works for one site won’t necessarily work for another.

Over time we’ve figured out how to best

Producer profile: Moss W

express our own patch of land, and we stick to that pretty firmly, even if others take a different path. That mix of support and individuality is part of what makes

Moss Wood was planted in Wilyabrup, Margaret River, in 1969 and sold to wine in 1985. Over the past few years, their sons Hugh and Tristan have joined their p family continuity. Hugh is the company’s winemaker and viticulturist.

Margaret River so strong.

Sponsored feature Wines are imported by Jeroboams You take a very hands-on approach to all aspects of what happens at the winery. Does this approach get

even small lessons build on each other over

flow filtration to better prepare wines

refined with each year or have you

time. The goal remains the same: faithful

for bottling and ageing, using flotation

more or less perfected the process?

expression of our site.

in the whites to minimise oxidation, and constantly trialling new yeasts and

All of our team has always believed that being hands-on is essential. It’s something

How has your winemaking style

cooperages to understand their impact on

that’s been passed down from my parents,

evolved over the years?

style.

Clare and Keith – the understanding that

Even though Moss Wood is seen as one of

The goal hasn’t changed, but the tools

you can’t make truly great wine from a

the region’s more traditional producers,

and techniques keep getting sharper. The

distance. You need to be in the vineyard,

we’ve always been driven by improvement.

desire to improve is constant.

in the winery, tasting, observing, and

The style has evolved through steady,

responding to what the season gives you.

practical changes rather than big shifts.

What kind of reaction have you seen

That philosophy hasn’t changed, but it

In the winery that’s meant things like

to the wines in the UK market, and do

does get refined every year. Winemaking

bringing in a vibrating sorting table in

you think the UK is fully aware of how

is not something you ever perfect. Each

2013 to make sure only the cleanest fruit

diverse the Australian wine scene is?

vintage teaches you something new, and

goes into fermentations, adopting cross-

Moss Wood first arrived in the UK in 1984,

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 54

with totally different climates, soils and growing conditions. You can’t talk about “Australian wine” as if it’s one style; it’s a country full of contrasts.

Moss Wood 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon

We’ve always prided ourselves on

A classic Moss Wood

punching above our weight in terms of

Cabernet – fragrant,

quality, and the UK is the perfect testing

structured and built for

ground because it has access to the world’s

the long haul. It shows

best wines. When our wines hold their

beautiful purity of fruit,

own in that environment, it’s incredibly

fine tannins and the kind

rewarding.

You’ve earned lots of good reviews and awards. Is there one review that

of balance that promises decades of graceful ageing.

particularly sticks in your head, and

to open some of Australia’s Michael Walker is advised

Senior winemaker Brett Schutz

one award that meant something

Moss Wood 2023

extra special to you?

It’s always nice when critics enjoy the

Chardonnay

wines, and we’re grateful when good

Bright, detailed

scores or awards come our way – but it’s

and elegant, with

never been the driving force. At the end of

generous fruit

the day, our most important critics are the

supported by

customers who choose to spend their hard-

fine acidity and

earned money on Moss Wood.

subtle oak. It’s a

The honour that stands out above all

Wood

Chardonnay that

others was the chance to present our wines at a Moss Wood dinner in the Long Room at Lord’s in 2023. For a family of cricket tragics, it was a dream setting – a match

captures both power and finesse, and shows Margaret River at its best.

made in heaven and a night we’ll never

emakers Clare and Keith Mugford parents at the estate, ensuring its

forget.

Moss Wood 2023

What’s the least enjoyable aspect of

Amy’s

the job?

Vibrant, juicy and

Honestly, the paperwork. I know it’s

approachable, Amy’s is

important and it has to be done, but none

all about drinkability. A

of us got into the wine industry for admin.

blend that delivers bright

so we’ve had a foothold there for over

We’re here to grow grapes and make

fruit, soft tannins and

40 years. The reaction we see from UK

wine – that’s the part that’s really fun and

consumers is usually a mix of excitement

immediate enjoyment,

exciting. The compliance side is just the bit

and curiosity – our wines come from this

you tackle so you can get back out into the

while still carrying the

far-flung place called Margaret River that

vineyard and winery.

many have heard of but very few have actually visited.

One thing we’re always keen to

And the bit you enjoy the most?

For me, it’s the start of vintage. There’s

highlight is just how vast and diverse the

nothing quite like that first morning –

Australian wine scene is. The wines made

usually picking Pinot Noir – when we’re

in Margaret River are completely different

in the winery at 5.30am getting set up

to those from regions like the Barossa

to hand-pick the first fruit of the season.

Valley or Mornington Peninsula – and for

All the work of the year is about to come

good reason. Those regions are literally

to fruition, and the sense of possibility is

thousands of kilometres away from us,

huge. That’s the part I love most.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 55

hallmarks of Moss Wood quality.

Australia’s old vine identity Five producers safeguarding heritage in a changing landscape In a global wine context, Australia sits in a paradoxical

– many ungrafted, many dry grown, and many still at the centre

position: a “new world” country with some of the oldest

of premium winemaking today.

soils, undisturbed by major geological events, and oldest

This old-vine resource isn’t merely a historical artefact. It’s

continuously producing vines anywhere on earth.

a competitive advantage that underpins stylistic identity,

While major winemaking nations such as France, Italy,

resilience to climate variability, and the kind of textural and

and Spain were forced to replant almost entirely after the

structural nuances that only mature vines seem able to deliver.

devastation of phylloxera, large parts of Australia remained

The following producers and vineyards provide a compelling

untouched. As a result, Australia holds an extraordinary

snapshot of how Australia continues to preserve and elevate this

concentration of 19th-century and early 20th-century vineyards

living heritage.

Tyrrell’s: Hunter Valley’s Semillon and Shiraz landmarks Few Australian producers can claim a deeper connection to old vines than Tyrrell’s, whose estate vineyards form the backbone of both the Hunter Valley’s Semillon legacy and its historic Shiraz story.

Tyrrell’s is the proud owner of eight of the Hunter Valley’s 11 oldest vineyards, including the world’s oldest block of Chardonnay, planted in 1908 in its HVD vineyard; and New South Wales’s oldest Shiraz block, the Old Patch.

Spotlight on Short Flat – Semillon’s ancestral heart The Short Flat vineyard, with plantings dating back to 1923 and 1927, remains central to the production of Tyrrell’s best Semillons, including the flagship Vat 1 Semillon. Its sandy loams and low-vigour vines yield fruit of remarkable linearity and long ageing potential.

SHORT FLAT, HUNTER VALLEY

Torbreck: Barossa’s monumental old vine power No producer leans more definitively into the old-vine heritage of the Barossa than Torbreck, whose vineyard holdings represent a crosssection of the valley’s most venerated sites, with some dating back more than 175 years.

HILLSIDE VINEYARD, BAROSSA

Spotlight on Hillside – heritage Grenache and Shiraz The Hillside vineyard in Lyndoch includes Grenache and Shiraz planted around 1850. Dry-grown and naturally low in vigour, these vines deliver a savoury, textural style juxtaposing with the region’s typical richness. Hillside is one of the Barossa’s most significant estates and is a key source of fruit for some of Torbreck’s most significant wines such as The Steading and The Forebear.

To experience the flavours of old vine Australian wines for yourself, follow this QR code and fill out the form for a FREE mixed case of samples. (First 25 readers only.)

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 56

Published in association with Fells Find out more at fells.co.uk

HIGH SANDS, McLAREN VALE

Yangarra Estate: the Grenache vanguard of McLaren Vale Yangarra Estate has helped reposition McLaren Vale as a global reference point for old-vine Grenache. The estate’s mature dry-grown bush vines – particularly blocks planted in the 1940s on deep sands – deliver wines of clarity, red-fruited elegance and precision.

Spotlight on High Sands The High Sands and associated heritage Grenache parcels show how vine age, careful biodynamic farming and minimal intervention can converge to express Grenache with delicacy and authority in a Mediterranean climate.

Yalumba: guardianship through the Old Vine Charter Yalumba has long been a vocal custodian of the Barossa’s old vines, most famously through its Old Vine Charter, which has helped formalise age language across the Australian trade.

In addition to being Australia’s oldest family-owned winery, Yalumba also makes single vineyard wines from some of the Barossa’s oldest vineyards.

VASSE FELIX CHIEF WINEMAKER HOLLY WILLCOCK

Vasse Felix: Margaret River’s foundational DNA Vasse Felix occupies a different but equally important place in the national old-vine narrative, being Margaret River’s foundational wine estate.

Spotlight on Tri-Centenary and Steeple – contrasts in ancient Barossa expression The Tri-Centenary vineyard, planted in 1889, is one of Australia’s greatest old-vine Grenache sites: low yielding, deeply rooted, and consistently producing wines of spice, concentration, and structural refinement. Seek out Yalumba’s The Tri-Centenary Grenache, a wine produced only from this vineyard that spends a remarkable 300+ days on skins.

Planted in 1919, the Steeple vineyard, a treasured old Shiraz site in the Eden Valley, offers a contrasting coolclimate interpretation. Mature vines here produce fruit for The Steeple Shiraz, with lifted aromatics, finer tannins and a more vertical expression than Barossa Valley counterparts.

Spotlight on the Home Vineyard Established in 1967 and the first in Margaret River, the Home Vineyard retains the region’s original Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec vines, planted by Dr Tom Cullity. While younger than Barossa or Hunter antecedents, these vines have shaped Margaret River’s definition of structure, maritime-influenced ripening and Cabernet purity for over half a century. Their continuity is crucial to understanding the region’s modern identity. Vasse Felix’s flagship wine, Tom Cullity, is an homage to its visionary founder and is comprised of the oldest blocks in the Home Vineyard.

TRI-CENTENARY VINEYARD

A heritage worth defending Across these sites – stretching from the humidity of the Hunter to the ancient soils of the Barossa and the maritime influence of Margaret River – Australia holds a vine resource unmatched by any other major wine-producing nation.

But these vineyards are not static relics; they are productive cultural assets, informing style, preserving genetic diversity and anchoring the country’s premium wine narrative.

In an era of shifting climate, evolving markets and increasing pressure on land use, the preservation of old vines is both a privilege and a responsibility. Thanks to producers like Tyrrell’s, Torbreck, Yangarra, Yalumba and Vasse Felix, Australia continues to steward one of the world’s greatest viticultural legacies.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 57

OlD ViNeS RuLe THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 58

Why are old vines important and why should merchants care about them? These were some of the questions addressed at the Old Vine Conference in California in November.

Report by Graham Holter

P

eople in the wine trade seem to love old vines, occasionally to the point of obsession. We fondle them and photograph them and fetishise them. But

does this behaviour make any sense?

planted in the late 1990s.

Yet Farinetti reports the death toll “was much less in the old vines”.

“They have this capacity to regulate their production,” he

Spoiler alert: yes, it does, but not always for the reasons that the fondlers and photographers realise.

says. In 2017, old-vine yields dipped to around 60% of the norm, and in 2022 that fell to just 29%. “But we didn’t have

It’s true that old vines are aesthetically pleasing, and often beautiful, their gnarled limbs twisting out of improbable

mortality. The roots get much deeper into the soil.”

It wasn’t just that fewer old vines died in drought years.

landscapes in shapes that sometimes look like trees or human

Farinetti maintains that the grapes they produced were better

hands.

than those from younger vines. Fruit from youthful plants

It’s tempting to ascribe mystical and otherworldly qualities to these ancient organisms with their silent wisdom and their secret powers. Robert Joseph, the British wine writer, is on to something when says an old vine reminds him of an octopus.

had tannins that were “really rustic, and really dry – like the vintage”. In the old vines, “the tannin was really soft”.

In Paso Robles, California, a study conducted by O’Neill Vintners & Distillers found something similar.

And yet we’re ripping them out of the ground. At the Old

Head of sustainability Caine Thompson says older vines

Vine Conference in California in November, we considered

are better adapted to climate spikes, thanks partly to their

why this is happening, and whether the destruction needs to

lower planting density. “So the vine has been able to get

stop.

better established generally, compared to younger vines, and they just perform better in periods of climate extreme,” he

When does a vine count as old?

explains.

“In this trial down in Paso Robles, in four out of five years

Anyone can call their vines old. The French often do, but the

they’ve just been more resilient. The fruit has been preserved

“vielles vignes” descriptor you see on labels is essentially

better. Our yields are actually better comparatively, because

meaningless. A more rigid and useful consensus has recently

the vine has got this big canopy that goes up over the fruit. It

emerged. Since 2024, the International Organisation of Vine

protects it like an umbrella.” The old vines also require 30%

& Wine has defined an old-vine vineyard as a plot in which at

less water.

least 85% of the vines are at least 35 years old.

Not everyone thinks that’s sufficient – especially those

A quick science lesson

tending vines that are twice or three times that age. But the rationale makes sense, given that most vines are deemed

Luis Diaz-Garcia is assistant professor of oenology at UC

unproductive, unprofitable and unviable before they’re

Davis. He’s developing new vines that are more resilient

midway through their fourth decade.

to heat, drought, pests and disease, and his research has

Viticulture is a brutal business at times, and a global downturn in wine consumption means there’s little

naturally drawn him to old vines.

He compares the vine genome to a 500,000-page

room for sentiment. But an increasing number of wine

instruction manual, divided into 19 chapters – one for each

professionals argue that keeping old vines in the ground can

chromosome. As the vines adapt, they apply the equivalent

be commercially logical.

of Post-it notes to some of the pages, emphasising some

Andrea Farinetti is the winemaker at Borgogno in Barolo, a region which expects 900mm of rain each year. That crashed

sentences, altering the meaning of others.

“If you have vines that have been in the field for 100 years,

to 622mm in 2017, and 345mm in 2022. In those years there

these vines have seen everything,” Diaz-Garcia says. “They

was a “really high mortality rate” among vines that had been

have a lot of different sticky notes and bookmarks in this

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 59

Time for a story Science clearly has a role to play in keeping old vines in the ground. But so does marketing.

Rosa Kruger, whose Old Vine Project in South Africa has genome book. We have a vine that has a bunch of experiences that have been accumulated over time, and that’s

been an inspiration globally, has watched the Cape’s old-vine hectarage almost triple in 10 years.

Quoting from the results of a University of Cape Town study

very useful for breeding, and scientific curiosity.”

Then there are random mutations within clones that create

published in 2018, she says: “Vineyard age has a significant

tiny differences between vines that may look identical, but

impact on the price of the wine. You can charge more for wine

aren’t. For Diaz-Garcia and his team, old vines represent “a

in South Africa when you say ‘old vines’ on the label.

reservoir of genetic diversity that could be super useful”.

“People don’t only buy old-vine wines because of the quality of the wines. They are also inspired by the stories behind them, of heritage, sustainability and authenticity. The younger generation, while drinking less wine overall, are increasingly willing to pay more for products that align with their values, and old-vine wine embodies this ethos, blending tradition with a forward-thinking approach of sustainability and social impact.”

Morgan Twain-Peterson MW, president of California’s Historic Vineyard Society, adds: “Everybody’s talking in the wine industry right now about how younger people are not engaged with wine. And the reality is, if you immediately go and start talking about clonal selection and soil type and aspect and barrels, people’s eyes roll in the back of their head … because that’s enormously complex. [With old vines] you’re jumping to a theme that people can relate to.”

Vine age might not be the first topic that merchants and suppliers reach for in their conversations with their customers. But many speakers and delegates at the Old Vine Conference can testify that it’s one that chimes with the public. At the very least, observed one American distributor, it can be the deciding factor in a “tie-break” situation between two equally likeable wines.

Do old-vine wines really taste better?

Allowing young vines to become old

José Ignacio Gracia Lopez, director of the Campo de

Many vineyards, young and old, will continue to be bulldozed

Borja consejo regulador in Spain, worked with the

as the wine industry rebalances in response to lower demand.

University of Zaragoza to analyse the varietal aroma of

But more old-vine wine sales means more old vines will be

Garnacha grapes from both old and young vines in 12

spared.

plots over three consecutive harvests.

“We’re not going to keep them in the ground unless there is

The results were unequivocal. “The grapes from historical Garnacha vineyards saw a more diverse, intense and consistent aroma compared to those from

a commercial incentive to do so,” summed up Jancis Robinson MW in her opening address.

“I started writing about wine 50 years ago, and gradually, as

younger vineyards,” he says. “Historic vineyards contain

I was tasting things, I was noticing that old-vine wines were

more of the key contributors to black fruit notes. Grapes

just better. They were more interesting. They were better

from young wines provide more aromas of red fruits, and

balanced. They had a story to tell.

grapes from old vines provide more complexity, and especially black fruit notes.”

“Maybe it’s a question of telling those stories, because behind every old vineyard, there tends to be at least one, if not several, great stories.”

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 60

Excuse me – where’s your old-vine wine section?

H

ow can retailers guide their customers towards oldvine wines? Could it be viable to have an old-vine section within the store or on a wine list? These are

questions that the Old Vine Conference wrestled with.

As things stand, there is no universal symbol or logo that appears on labels or stickers. But some local initiatives exist.

The most famous one is the Certified Heritage Vineyards seal in South Africa, part of the Old Vine Project run by Rosa Kruger. It’s a simple and recognisable logo with the words “planted 1936” (or similar) beneath it.

Joel Peterson with son Morgan Twain-Peterson MW: two of California’s biggest old-vine devotees

In Barossa, the Old Vine Charter states that any vine aged more than 35 years can be badged as “old”. Further up the scale, 75 years or more denotes a “survivor vine”, and 100

straightforward to gauge the exact age of a vineyard. The

years a “centenarian vine”. If a vine is more than 125 years

most reliable way of checking is to visit Alder Yarrow’s

old, it’s classed as an “ancestor vine”.

excellent Old Vine Registry website, which currently lists

The problem is that in many countries, it’s not always

8,181 vineyards and hopes to hit 10,000 by this summer.

In theory, wine merchants could cross-reference every wine on their shelves against the website. But it would be an extremely laborious task – as would re-examining every tech sheet they receive from suppliers.

As the conference progressed in California, support for a global old-vine seal seemed to gather momentum. There are questions to be addressed – what should it look like, how would it be policed and who’s paying for it – but Sarah Abbott MW, who founded the Old Vine Conference, agrees it’s a feasible objective for the medium or long term.

In the meantime, there’s nothing to stop merchants from demarcating their old vine selection in any way they see fit.

An old-vine wines section might not be a realistic option in most shops, but an old-vine wines promotion certainly could be. It’s also a relatively simple search term to add to websites.

And if there’s no official old-vines logo just yet, creative

Rosa Kruger of the Old Vine Project

(picture by Michèle Shah)

retailers always have the option of designing one of their own.

Speakers’ corner quotes from the conference Dr Laura Catena, Catena Zapata, Argentina “If you pull out a vineyard when it’s not ready, that’s still young, it’s an assassination.”

with old vines, because those yields drop as the vine ages, which is the exact reason that after 15, 17 years people tear the vines out and replant, because they need more yield.”

Paul Draper, Ridge Vineyards, California “You have to have a clientele that is looking for the finest of the variety to really justify working and replanting and continuing

Jancis Robinson MW “After the movie Sideways, in Sonoma I came across quite a lot of instances where fabulous old vines were being pulled out to make way for fashionable Pinot Noir. That,

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 61

I suppose, highlighted to me the need to encourage people to keep old vines in the ground, because they were making much more interesting wine.”

Rosa Kruger, The Old Vine Project, South Africa “What about the people? Let’s in the old vine community across the world build a culture of caring for our old vines, but also for the people that work the vines.”

ROB HOULT

service-heavy and as such requires a much bigger wage bill, running costs and margins. Also it’s far easier to be a little rough and ready in the retail world than the on-trade. I’ve worked in both and I know the difference. I also know where I’m best suited and happiest. That wine bar

Another Thing I may be the last of a dying breed. But I can’t see how on and off-sales combine

element feels a lot like real work.

It is this running cost issue which means that a hybrid can’t truly exist. As soon as you put an on-trade element into an offtrade business you have on-trade running costs and you really need on-trade margins to make that work. Sell a bottle at 35% retail margin or a bottle at 70% drink-in margin and you know where you’re going

ybrids don’t exist. They can’t, it’s

H

There was a period in time where I put

to want to concentrate those efforts. The

not a thing. There is not a place

a large bookcase in the shop with all my

shop element is going to be seen as less

where a shop and wine bar/

books available to purchase with proceeds

important – it’s just business nature.

restaurant exist in perfect harmony. It is

to charity. We weren’t a bookshop, we were

either one or the other.

still a wine merchant. Despite how this

influenced age, the on-trade scene is much

In an increasingly social media-

Take the rather excellent Salut in

article may sound so far, I’m not bothered

prettier too. Lovely plates of food and

Manchester. It’s been top 10 in another

by those that do wine by the glass merging

people sitting around enjoying a glass of

periodical’s list of best indie wine shops

into the realms of old fashioned bottle

natty red are far more Gram-able than a

multiple times, yet it’s not a shop. It never

floggers. It’s just that the two things are so

stack of boxes. So the feedback from those

has been.

very, very different and it’s so very, very

interactions is only going to feed into the

wrong to lump them together.

dominance of the on-trade efforts.

S

This isn’t just sour grapes because we’ve never even had our name printed in that

retail skills and a low cost base to allow

A

with the option to buy a bottle or more to

for what is a relatively low margin in

low margins make it tough work at first.

take home. I’ve enjoyed myself in there on

comparison to the on-trade.

list, let alone in any top something-orother, although it may be another reason why I’m team Wine Merchant.

Salut is a genuinely excellent wine bar

numerous occasions.

elling bottles of wine and making a proper living from it requires some serious stock levels, some full-on

A wine bar is much more customer

nother reason for more on than off is time. My experience tells me that it takes at least three years to make

a retail shop successful from scratch; those A quick fix is to add in by-the-glass, and this adds extra profit very quickly, but at what cost? At first it seems to be a winwin but you can’t see the negative that is injected into that retail space purely by the need to provide a hospitality space.

Can you be as verbose in your sales pitch if there’s 30 people enjoying a nice relaxing glass of wine? Can you push the case sales if you can’t have big stacks of cardboard boxes going backwards and forwards? I know my thoughts on the matter and now you do too.

Maybe I’m the last of a dying breed, maybe I’m just an old stick in the mud. But I really do love what I do – and, remember, I wrote this whilst quite tipsy, very late at night.

Rob Hoult owns Hoults

Happy times at Huddersfield’s book and wine shop and bar

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 62

Wine Merchants in Huddersfield

ASK

Phoebe

Phoebe Weller of Valhalla's Goat in Glasgow is our unregulated agony aunt

I just can’t decide how to stop procrastinating Dear Phoebe

I am a master of procrastination.

Deliveries come in and remain boxed as I must research the terroir of Slovenia, immediately. There is a longstanding glitch in the stock system which has resulted in any product containing the word “de” adding rather than subtracting bottles from the inventory.

Even writing that out was a struggle – to rectify it would require me sitting at the PC and concentrating for an hour, or getting in touch with our till guy, Noddy; but Instagram, and in particular the Girl Preston can be a girl’s name too, so get used to it

Drinks Guinness page, holds far more allure. I’m drowning. Help!

Dear Preston

The judge wants me to judge crap wines

Guinness I am familiar with your struggles.

Dear Phoebe

Preston, Preston

As a fellow Aries and fan of Girl Drinks I would much rather rank supermarkets

dark side, the face that forever faces the void, not a Barefoot Pinot Grigio in sight for all eternity. Does that feel good, you ungrateful weasel?

HTH, Phoebe

The Red Judge is a Good Customer who

(Aldi, M&S, Morri’s, Waitrose, Lidl,

Splashes the Cash. He also likes to bring

Asda, Sainsbury’s, Tesco) than do pretty

gifts from his cellar and they’re all shit.

much anything else, certainly more than

Vintage bottles of Yellow Tail Shiraz,

answering the 20th raffle-prize request

Blossom Hill Chardonnay and Barefoot

we have received this week. But then I

Pinot Grigio. I would chuck them but he

would also meticulously and laboriously

wants detailed tasting notes on his next

restock the German beer selection rather

visit. How can I tell him to quit with the

than talk to many of the customers that

gifts but keep splashing the cash?

with the heart?

come into the shop on a Saturday. It’s a

Iona, Iona

Virginia, Virginia Beach, Virginia

Dear Iona

Dear Virginia

are maybe needing done more. Also,

understand your predicament in full,

sense some of that Yankee know-it-all

what really needs done? An unopened

radiant clarity. How to shine with reflected

arrogance from your short question but

box of wine could well be cellaring! An

radiance? How to be humble yet sharp

of course I agree with you – heart would

unanswered email might well have gone

and elegant? How to keep the Red Judge’s

be my choice. The lean nutritional profile,

into spam! Lots of things you don’t do

purple 50s in the till? Think of the waxing

compared with the saturated fat and

eventually go away. Perspective, Preston!

crescent: new beginnings and growth.

cholesterol of the former, makes this one a

Think long game!

How can you grow to diminish again? It

no-brainer!

HTH, Phoebe

is Gaia that turns, not Luna. Explore the

Help me get to the heart of the matter Dear Phoebe

What does the brain matter compared

matter of perspective, of finding things that need to be done that are less frustrating and equally important as the things that

As a fellow student of the moon I

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 63

Our first query from across the pond! I

See you later alligator & HTH, Phoebe

JACOB STOKES

With its textural subtleties swimming in chewed-up meat, its quiet aromatics wafted by a propellor of steaming food and your attention well and truly diverted to imminent nourishment? Where exactly is the improvement coming from?

And to those who make wines so big and

First Press We’re told that good wine is enhanced by good food. I find that hard to swallow

brash they can only be tamed by a brutal piece of steak, that’s not improvement, it’s just distraction. Frankenstein’s monster will still have bolts through his neck regardless of what you feed him.

And when the salesman tells me such wine is gastronomic, what they actually mean is they’re trying to sell something so unbalanced and offensive it would kill almost any dish that lies in its wake.

F

or me gastronomic wines are the ones that slide effortlessly from a glass whilst cooking, to a few

preliminary sips with good company, to the dinner table and beyond. Not the ones that bluster into the dining room wearing a full set of chainmail armour with a hide of mutton as a dinner cloth.

And it seems I’m not alone in feeling the whole idea of improvement-by-food is a fallacy. Time and again I see wine professionals sit down at a dinner and eat away without a second thought for supposed wine enhancement, and understandably so: it’s usually after a full day of relentless tasting.

You’ll always get one comment about the wine going well with a specific food

Advanced food and wine matching technique, with both fork and glass fully engaged

component, just to show willing, and then a few reactionary sips and nods

N

of agreement round the table. Then it’s

ow, I might be about to end my

wing, where such institutionalised delusion

back to the chomp. I think we must know

career in wine at the age of 23

belongs.

instinctively that food is and always will

with this take, but at least it’ll

Firstly, though, I need to acknowledge

be the priority. Regardless of what’s being

be in the name of rebellion. Specifically,

we rightly laud wine for its structural

poured, wine doesn’t become something

against everything to do with the idea of

components that make it the perfect

much shinier in its company. It just

food being a mechanism for elevating wine.

beverage for food. This is scientifically

becomes complementary.

I propose to not just put the whole idea in

backed and not something I challenge.

So as nerdy as this may sound, I find it

Room 101, but in Donald Trump’s new east

I always drink wine with food; it

mandatory for wine to be first given the

enhances everything around the table

time to express itself in the absence of

when chosen correctly. But I’m not going

food distractions, especially something

to be told that the wine you just gave

half decent. This way it can tell you every

your full attention to before eating, with

whisper in its story, show every crevice

an undistracted palate, is now magically

in its complexion and every nuance in its

improved when its properties have to

character – not just the ones that manage

fight with a full meal. Elevated how?

to squeeze through the noise.

Is wine improved when its textural subtleties are swimming in chewed-up meat?

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 64

Scottish rums: ideal for indies Dorchadas Amber Spiced Rum (RRP £42) Angus Bennett’s Scottish rum picks for independents As regional sales manager for England and Wales at Inverarity Morton, I spend a lot of time talking with independents about what really

Founded by two friends keen to honour the coastal heritage of East Neuk, Dorchadas takes its name from the Gaelic for “dark, mysterious, arcane”, a nod to the smuggler legends of rum and tobacco hidden along the East Neuk coast. The rum begins as a blend of pot-still molasses rums from Jamaica and the Dominican Republic, before being infused in Scotland with botanicals and spices including Scottish sea buckthorn, cocoa husks, grains of paradise, cassia bark and cubeb.

It’s then reduced to 41% abv using Scottish seawater from a local saltmaking process, giving a sustainable, regionally rooted twist.

works on their shelves. A strong rum range isn’t just about having bottles in different styles, it’s about quality, provenance and storytelling that keeps customers coming back.

Scotland’s rum scene has really taken off in the last few years and these bottles are some of my favourites to share with customers. From the rugged coastlines of East Neuk to the remote Hebridean islands and small

Isle of Barra Dark Atlantic Rum (RRP £43) From Scotland’s most westerly distillery on the remote island of Barra, this dark rum is a celebration of island heritage. Locals founded the distillery to reconnect with their roots, producing a rum infused with wild-harvested carrageen seaweed, coconut, cardamom and orange peel. On the nose, expect coconut and clove with a crisp sea-air freshness; the palate offers coconut and brown sugar with a dry, clean mouth feel, finishing with a warming cardamom spice.

estates near Dumfries, each rum brings something different to the shelf and a story that sparks conversation.

Spiced, dark, or cask-aged, these rums aren’t just drinks – they’re experiences.

About Inverarity Morton Inverarity Morton has been at the heart of Scotland’s drinks trade for 80 years. As the country’s leading independent wine and spirits wholesaler, we are proud to work with independent retailers across the UK, helping them bring distinctive, quality products to their customers. sales@inveraritymorton.com 0141 620 6100 inveraritymorton.com

Ninefold Pure Single White Rum

(RRP £41)

Distilled at Ninefold on Dormon Estate near Dumfries, this rum is made entirely from scratch using sugar cane molasses. The hybrid pot/column still produces a double-distilled spirit that is not cask aged and has no added sugar or colouring. This results in a bright, clean, flavourful base rum rather than a heavy oaky spirit.

Islay Barrel Aged Rum

(RRP £42)

Islay Rum was founded in 2022 and is the first and only rum distillery on the island famously associated with Scotch whisky. The distillery is based in the old lemonade factory at Port Ellen, where they ferment molasses and then distil using copper pot stills to produce the base rum. This rum is then matured in oak casks that previously held heavily peated Islay single malt Scotch whisky, leaving a distinct Islay -style character by blending tropical rum origins with the maritime, smoky temperament of its cask home.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 65

WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT PINOTAGE A visit to Cape Wine 2025 persuades Jacob Stokes to look at a misunderstood grape in a whole new light

T

here’s an endless pool of potential

been better off not bothering – an attitude

Roodekrantz

stories in South Africa. And landing

reflecting a complicated 100 years. A

Roodekrantz’s Pinotage provided one of

in Cape Town for Cape Wine

story tainted by a hold-your-nose-and-

those moments I’m constantly searching

2025, I was keen to not let my personal

sprint kind of race to the bottom, based

for in wine – the ones that shock you into

infatuations compromise my ability to find

on Pinotage’s capacity to yield generous

silence, send your heart racing and leave

the right one. But who was I kidding? I

amounts of very poor fruit. But one also

you with an uncontrollable smile.

knew there was still every chance that as

marked by trying to force Pinotage to be

soon as the Chenin fiddles started playing

something that it inherently isn’t – a big,

want Pinotage that shines purity and

a bouncy tune, all my willpower could be

heavy, extracted red.

transparency; we work it very gently

undermined within a matter of seconds.

But it quickly became obvious that

Increasingly there’s a willingness among

Winemaker Marius Burger Jr says: “We

with light extractions. All we want to do

producers to reframe Pinotage as the

is enhance the sense of this cool, windy

there was no fight to silence my love

world-class variety that they believe it can

site through Pinotage. This definitely

affairs in Cape Town. The story wasn’t

be. My opinion was well and truly changed

isn’t traditional. It’s delicate but with the

Chenin. Instead, it was a much more

in the Cape; my ignorance exposed, and my

concentration of old vines.”

complicated one. A story that comes with

motives realigned. So it feels only right to

baggage way over the permitted check-in

acknowledge the people, places and wines

Spioenkop

weight. A story that, within its 100 years

that made this happen.

This ethereal style left me besotted and

of pages, has drawn blood, left scars and

sent me on a search for more. And as I

taken prisoners. And yet it’s a story that,

dug deeper, one man and one name kept

within a matter of days, presented itself as unshakable. Pinotage.

2025 marks a century since the first Stellenbosch university professor, Abraham Perold, crossed Pinot Noir and Cinsault to create Pinotage. And a common opinion in the UK is that Mr Perold would have

“Pinotage is a noble grape, and it should be treated like one, not like a sausage” Koen Roose, Spioenkop THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 66

cropping up – Koen Roose at Spioenkop.

During Roose’s seven years in Nuits-StGeorges, French scientists told him they had calculated Pinotage as 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Cinsault. It was at this moment that Roose pledged himself to starting a farm in a cooler part of South Africa, with

the mission of bringing the Pinot Noir out of Pinotage.

“In 2020, when I made my first Pinotage, I was really inspired by the original

“When I first started Spioenkop, I was

Pinotage bottlings from the 60s. They are

fighting against the old school of Pinotage,

some of the brightest, most ethereal wines

and they shit me out because I was in

I’ve ever had, full stop. Always around

Elgin,” he says. “The UK had destroyed

12.5% abv with ageing in large vats …

Pinotage at this point. Being the number

they’re just super pure. It showed me that

one [export market], we listened. And that

if someone could do this with Pinotage

resulted in the high alcohol, over-wooded,

once, we can do it again.

jammy, rubbery, Christmas pudding wines.

“We only do one punch-down or pump-

Influential people said that’s how Pinotage

over a day, and that’s just to keep the cap

should be. They were totally wrong.”

healthy, not because we’re thinking about

Pinotage has the highest amount of

extraction. Me doing as little as I can just

natural nitrogen of any cultivar, meaning

lets the wine figure itself out. And like with

that it ferments extremely fast. For the

whole-bunch, it’s all about the vineyard. A

old-guard style, producers would be doing

bad site will be boring regardless of whole

actions on the cap as often as five times in

bunch or destemming.”

the day and as many at night, to extract as much from the short ferment as possible.

Abrie Beeslaar

But not at Spioenkop.

Widely regarded as one of South Africa’s

Roose says: “Pinotage is a noble grape,

greatest ever winemakers, it’s safe to say

and it should be treated like one, not like

Beeslaar knows his Pinotage. And after

a sausage. It needs goblet [vines], it needs

23 years as the head winemaker at icon

poor soils, and it needs low yields.

producer Kanonkop, last year he stepped

“To unlock the power of Pinotage you must create bunches that look like small

down from the role to focus his effort on

Roodekrantz1976Pinotage 2022, Stellenbosch These old vines, planted in 1976, anchor themselves into a bed of decomposed granite, docked at the mercy of False Bay winds. Spearmint and rose rise through a tight nerve of crunchy fruit.

Cranberries, elderberries and pomegranate. This is softly spoken, woven with nuance, charm and understated persistence.

Spioenkop Pinotage 2020, Elgin This wine isn’t ripping up a playbook, it’s repairing one.

Windswept red fruits are laced with dried earth, smoke and spice. There’s a Burgundian effortlessness on the palate with scorched roses, blood orange and cocoa, all kissed with fine cedar. This has one eye on the future, but you wouldn’t feel short changed today.

his own project, Beeslaar.

pine cones. This way you have the colour,

Beeslaar says: “We are now past the

acid and tannin structures naturally and

point of selling Pinotage just because it’s

don’t have to extract in the winery. Forget

ours and it’s different. And we are in a

what you know about other varieties;

great position to do that now, because

Pinotage has its own way. It’s a pain in the

we understand the relationship between

arse, but the results are fantastic.

site, style and quality better than

“Thankfully now, 20 years after I started,

Pinotages to ponder

ever. For example, if the site can’t take

young people are doing the same job of

concentration, make a lighter style. It’s

joining me in making Pinotage sexy again.”

about making a quality red wine first and a quality Pinotage second.”

Angus Paul Transient Lands Pinotage 2023, Western Cape This is as pure and pristine as it gets. Black cherries, blueberries and violets lead the aromatic charge into a palate entry bursting with youth and vigour. The finish is propelled by a punch of white pepper and a bleeding of pine sap. Truly distinctive.

Angus Paul And one of those young people is Angus

Beeslaar Pinotage 2023, Stellenbosch Very few people could make a Pinotage with this much understated power and concentration. This is ultra serious and truly world class. A crunchy, unyielding intensity of red fruit gradually turns to something deeper.

Raspberries tinged with purple, red cherries holding out for darkness. There’s something Cape Syrah here: the density, the lick of spiced citrus, the undoubtable quality.

Paul. He keeps transparency at the heart of his operation, expressing the honesty of quintessentially South African varieties through hands-off, single-site focused winemaking.

Paul says: “We want to show people what is unique about South Africa. For a long time South Africa has been a piggyback wine operation, planting Sauvignon Blanc to be like Chile or Cabernet to be like Bordeaux and so on. So, in the intertest of championing South Africa, Pinotage was an obvious choice.

Abrie Beeslaar: 23 years at the top of Kanonkop

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 67

MAKE A DATE

Wine Paris 2026

T

he largest wine show on earth takes place right on the UK’s doorstep, in a city that most of us love to visit and which is simple to get to. Let’s face it, reasons to travel don’t get much more compelling than these. Feel free to skip the rest of this article and jump straight to the registration details.

When Vinexposium took control of what had been Vinexpo and moved the show from Bordeaux to Paris, hearts must have sunk in Düsseldorf. The German city is not without its charms, but visitors to ProWein tend to fixate more on its shortage of hotel rooms, and the exorbitant prices of the accommodation they do manage to find.

The German magazine Wein.Plus reports that hotel prices typically quadruple during the fair, which will not come as news to many UK visitors.

Vinexposium CEO Rodolphe Lameyse was in London shortly before Christmas for his annual press briefing, but he wasn’t joining in any criticism of his German rival.

ProWein and Wine Paris would continue to coexist, he said, with each event approaching its mission in its own way.

But the momentum is certainly with the French. While ProWein can come across as coldly industrial in its presentation, Wine Paris seems to remember that, at heart, wine is all about making people happy. It’s a show that can be enjoyed rather than merely endured.

T

Visitors represent 155 global markets

categories now have their own stand-alone sections within the Porte de Versailles campus.

Be Spirits will have 311 exhibitors, Lameyse says. Be No Paris will have 63 stands for its debut event, catering for what Vinexpo regards as one of the most dynamic sectors of the drinks market.

For those with the time to attend masterclasses and debates, Wine Paris is keen to present itself as “a crucial business hub” where the challenges and opportunities facing the industry can be honestly discussed.

Vinexposium is understandably coy about divulging its visitor data in too much detail, so precise numbers of UK visitors aren’t made public. But there was

his year’s Wine Paris will be “by far the biggest trade show that we’ve ever organised,” Lameyse says. “You can be the biggest, but you also need to be the most effective, and offer the value that the industry is looking for.”

He expects to welcome 60,000 visitors from 155 markets, and 6,000 exhibitors representing 60 countries. “We’re using nine halls,” he says. “The room is full. We don’t have a single square metre available and we’ve had a waiting list since July.”

Buyers travelling from the UK can expect to be spoilt for choice in terms of wine options, and if spirits and no/low-alcohol drinks are also on their agenda, these

a conspicuous British contingent at the 2025 show, and if The Wine Merchant’s annual Survey of Independents is anything to go by, this could swell this year. Twentyone per cent of respondents said Wine Paris was an event they were keen to visit, compared to 20% for the London Wine Fair and 8% for ProWein.

Visitor badges are priced €80 until February 9, when they increase to €95.

Online accreditation is available at wineparis.com.

Monday, February 9-Wednesday, February 11 Paris Expo Porte de Versailles 1 Place de la Porte Versailles 75015 Paris

All nine halls have been booked up since July

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 68

Wines of Greece Highlights Tasting

Berkmann Wine Cellars Portfolio Tastings

A drop-in tasting featuring more than 70 wines from all the major winemaking regions of Greece.

Registration page: westburycom.co.uk/ events.

Berkmann will be celebrating “our portfolio of pioneers, risk-takers and visionaries who have shaped the world of wine”.

Max Coen, head chef at Michelin-starred Dorian, has created a bespoke menu for the London tasting to complement wines selected by purchasing director Alex Hunt MW. Registration can be requested by emailing events@berkmann.co.uk.

Monday, February 2 Smith & Gertrude Stockbridge 26 Hamilton Place Edinburgh EH3 5AU

Koshu of Japan Tasting Luke Harbor, group beverage director of The Pig Hotels, and journalist Sarah Jane Evans MW will host masterclasses at this tasting focusing on Japanese terroir.

Register by emailing koj@thisisphipps. com.

Wednesday, February 4 St James’s Room 67 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5ES

Tuesday, February 3 Guildhall 71 Basinghall Street London EC2V 7HH

A Santorini vineyard

Wednesday, February 4 Manchester Hall 36 Bridge Street Manchester M3 3BT

Hallgarten & Novum Wines Portfolio Tasting

North South Wines Portfolio Tasting

The team at Hallgarten and Novum Wines present their biggest event of the year offering the opportunity for indies to explore almost 1,000 wines across two days.

The selection will include the latest arrivals to the portfolio alongside awardwinners, sustainable bottles and the wines that are must-haves for 2026. Highlights will include hosted wine trails and panel discussions on both days of the event.

Register by emailing events@hnwines. co.uk.

The indie-friendly agency business led

by Kim Wilson (pictured) welcomes several of its producers for a comprehensive tasting of wines from its 2026 portfolio.

There will also be free-pour tables highlighting category trends including no and low alcohol products.

To register and for further details contact rachel@northsouthwines.co.uk.

Monday & Tuesday, February 2 & 3 Old Billingsgate 1 Old Billingsgate Walk London EC3R 6DX

Wednesday, February 4 The Crypt on the Green Clerkenwell Close London EC1R 0EA

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 69

Pampered Koshu grapes

M7 Tastings Despite the name, nine leading indie suppliers join forces for two joint tastings outside the capital, presenting more than 300 wines in a walkaround format.

They are ABS, Bancroft Wines, Fells, Gonzalez Byass UK (Bristol only), Jeroboams Trade, New Generation Wines, North South Wines, Mentzendorff and Richmond Wine Agencies.

For the Manchester tasting, registration is via cathy@mentzendorff.co.uk. For Bristol, email dan@mentzendorff.co.uk.

Monday, February 9 Emirates Old Trafford Talbot Road Manchester M16 0PX Tuesday, February 10 Harbour Hotel 53-55 Corn Street Bristol BS1 1HT

MAKE A DATE

New York Wines Tasting Explore more than 40 wines from AVAs across the state, including Finger Lakes, Long Island, Hudson River and Lake Erie.

In attendance will be Living Roots Wine & Co, Apollo’s Praise, Mazza Chautauqua Cellars, Fjord Vineyards and Hermann J Wiemer Vineyard, pouring wines that are available in the UK as well as those seeking representation.

Registration can be arranged by emailing eleanor@randr.co.uk.

Thursday, February 12 The Light Bar & Dining 233 Shoreditch High Street London E1 6PJ

Liberty Wines Edinburgh Portfolio Tasting Register at events@libertywines.co.uk.

Tuesday, February 17 Edinburgh venue

Fells Portfolio Tasting The full portfolio will be on show, giving indies a selection of around 300 wines to choose from.

Family-owned wineries will be pouring their wares, with many of the winemakers flying in for the occasion. Details of the two masterclasses will be announced shortly.

To register visit fells.co.uk.

Tuesday, February 17 IET London 2 Savoy Place London WC2R 0BL

Ivo Varbanov Wines Selection Portfolio Tasting

Wines of Portugal’s Grand Trade Tasting

Concert pianist Ivo Varbanov makes acclaimed wines in his native Bulgaria, but also imports wines to the UK – from both his home country and across Europe.

Spain, Slovenia and Greece are all represented, and the Italian line-up gives indies even more options, with wines from Lombardia, Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo, Sicily, Piedmont, Liguria, Alto Adige, Friuli, Montalcino, Marche, Umbria and Puglia.

Register via Eventbrite: see page 72.

Portugal’s generic tasting takes place in London for the first time since 2024, providing a useful opportunity for merchants to catch up with developments in what many indies regard as one of Europe’s most dynamic wine-producing countries.

For more information and to register email winesofportugaluk@thewineagency. pt.

Thursday, February 19 Bulgarian Cultural Institute 186-188 Queen’s Gate London SW7 5HL

Castelnau Wine Agencies Portfolio Tasting Led by Keith Isaacs MW, Castelnau’s UK office may be best known for its eponymous Champagne. But the agency list is long.

It includes names such as Patriarche Père et Fils (Burgundy), Domaines Vincent Moreau (Rhône), Scrimaglio (Piedmont), Oak Valley (Elgin) and Hahn Family Wines (California).

Register by emailing maria@castelnau.co.uk.

Monday, February 23 Swan at The Globe 21 New Globe Walk Bankside London SE1 9DT

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 70

Monday, February 23 1 Great George Street London SW1P 3AA

Alliance Wine Inspire Spring Portfolio Tastings Explore 150 wines at Alliance’s Inspire tastings in Edinburgh and Glasgow.

The selection, incorporating the H2Vin portfolio, will range “from trusted favourites to exciting new finds, designed to boost sales and refresh wine list shelves”.

For more information and to register visit alliancewine.com.

Monday, February 23 Timberyard 10 Lady Lawson Street Edinburgh EH3 9DS Tuesday, February 24 The Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Lane Glasgow G12 8SJ

Indigo Wine Portfolio Tasting A tasting with more than 35 producers in attendance, including Terroir al Limít, Remelluri, Dominio del Águila, Sugrue South Downs and many more.

Registration can be requested by emailing nancy@indigowine.com.

Tuesday, February 24 RHS Lindley Hall 80 Vincent Square London SW1P 2PB

Bolgheri 2023 Anteprima Tasting Join head sommelier Federico Moccia and Nelson Pari for this extensive exploration of Bolgheri 2023 anteprima wine.

Supported by the Consorzio of Bolgheri DOC, Moccia and Pari will encourage members of the wine trade to explore the 2023 vintage, showcasing premium selection Bolgheri including Ornellaia, Tenuta Guado al Tasso and Tenuta San Guido alongside more of Bolgheri’s most well-known producers.

Contact info@nf-pr.wine.

Grapes ripening in Mallorca

Taste Spain London 2026 This new trade-focused showcase for Spanish food and wine is organised by Foods & Wines from Spain “to highlight the finest Spanish produce and culinary traditions”.

A programme of workshops, chefs’ demos, wine tutorials and pairing

masterclasses will be part of the mix.

Spanish food and wine producers will present a selected range of products such as cheese, meats and oils already available in the UK or seeking distribution.

Email visit@tastespain.london for registration.

Tuesday, February 24 Mare Street Market 2 Lewis Cubitt Square London N1C 4DY

THETHEWINE 2026 WINEMERCHANT MERCHANTjanuary june 2025 71

Wednesday, February 25 St James’s Room 67 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5ES

QUIZ TIME Answers to questions on page 23 1. (d) Petite Sirah 2. (d) Extra Brut (a) Brut (b) Extra Dry (c) Dry 3. Douro bake 4. Chasselas and Fendant 5. (a) 0%

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

ivo varbanov wines selection ivo@ivovarbanov.com www.ivovarbanov.com Telephone: 07956 377705

Ivo Varbanov Wines Selection – Portfolio Tasting – 19 February 2026 The Ivo Varbanov Wines Selection is a curated portfolio of independent European estates, built on long-standing personal relationships and a shared focus on terroir, drinkability, and value.

The tasting will present the full portfolio, including wines from Ivo’s own Bulgarian estate alongside established producers such as Rossidi and Ketri, as well as a selection of newcomers and surprises from Bulgaria.

These will be shown alongside Spain’s Clos Figueras (Priorat); Greek estates Argatia (Naoussa) and Terra Thiva; Slovenian wineries Joannes Protner (Maribor) and Zanut (Goriška Brda); and an extensive Italian selection featuring Montelio (Lombardia), Terre Boscaratto (Veneto), Tre Monti (Emilia-Romagna), Vini La Quercia (Abruzzo), Spadafora (Sicily) Pertinace, Cornarea, and Prediomagno (Piedmont), Ligurian estates BioVio, La Pietra del Focolare, Cascina Nirasca, and Mauro Zino, with Schloss Englar and MuriGries (Alto Adige), Ronco dei Tassi (Friuli), La Rasina (Montalcino), Moroder (Marche), Le Thadee (Umbria), Antica Masseria Jorche (Puglia) and Sicily’s Palari (Faro DOC).

Where: Bulgarian Cultural Institute, 186-188 Queen’s Gate, London SW7 5HL When: 19 February, 10.30am-5.30pm Booking: via Eventbrite – search “Ivo Varbanov Wines Selection Portfolio Tasting”

Boutinot Boundary House Cheadle Point Cheadle SK8 2GG 0161 908 1300 www.boutinot.com

Emiliana is one of Chile’s most exciting producers and a pioneer in organic and biodynamic winemaking.

Scan the QR code to watch a video of the Emiliana team on a recent UK visit, when they discussed the new look for the acclaimed Adobe range.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 72

We are winegrowers!

schenk family uk Unit 5, The E Centre Easthampstead Road Bracknell RG12 1NF

Start the year sparkling

01753 521336 info@buckingham-schenk.co.uk www.buckingham-schenk.co.uk

with

@schenkfamilyuk

The elegant way to go 0.0%

liberty wines 020 7720 5350

AN N UA L PO R T F O L I O TASTINGS 2026

order@libertywines.co.uk www.libertywines.co.uk @liberty_wines

LO N D O N

EDINBURGH

MANCHESTER

2 0 T H J AN U A R Y 1 0 : 0 0 A M - 5 :3 0 P M

1 7 TH F E B R U A R Y 10:00AM - 5:00PM

2 3 R D F E B R UARY 1 0 : 0 0 A M - 5 :00PM

We hope you can join us to meet the producers and taste the new additions to our portfolio. For more details and to register your interest, please email events@libertywines.co.uk (strictly Trade & Press only).

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 73

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

hatch mansfield New Bank House 1 Brockenhurst Road Ascot SL5 9DL 01344 871800 info@hatch.co.uk www.hatchmansfield.com Hatch Mansfield hatchmansfield

AWIN BARRATT SIEGEL WINE AGENCIES 28 Recreation Ground Road Stamford Lincolnshire PE9 1EW 01780 755810 orders@abs.wine www.abs.wine

@ABSWines

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 74

richmond wine agencies The Links, Popham Close Hanworth TW13 6JE 020 8744 5550 Mark Isham, south & London: mark@richmondwineagencies.com Tim Hawtin, south west & London: tim@richmondwineagencies.com Julia Langshaw, north of the UK: julia@richmondwineagencies.com

RWA wish you a Happy New Year!

It’s coming up to M7 and Northern Lights 2026 so we hope to see you there!

M7 Manchester: February 9, Emirates Old Trafford 10am-4pm Bristol: February 10, Harbour Hotel 11am-4pm NORTHERN LIGHTS March 10, The Northern Ballet, Leeds 11am-4pm Please register with tim@richmondwineagencies.com for south west or julia@ richmondwineagencies.com and monika@richmondwineagencies.com for the north.

Monika Kent, north of UK monika@richmondwineagencies.com

walker & Wodehouse

Spotlight on Wild Life Produced in Cornwall, Wild Life Botanicals offers award‑winning 0.5% ABV

Ground Floor Bibendum Matthew Clark 16 St Martin’s Le Grand London EC1A 4EN 0207 449 1665 orders@walkerwodehousewines.com www.walkerwodehousewines.com

sparkling wines enriched with a bespoke fusion of vitamins, minerals and botanicals.

With a focus on sustainability and an approach that blends traditional sparkling wine methods with modern wellness science, Wild Life Botanicals appeals to health‑conscious consumers looking for low‑calorie NOLO options in January.

Wild Life Botanicals Sparkling Blush Wild‑strawberry aromas lead to a palate evoking rosehip tea, strawberries and cream, and classic Cornish orchard notes of crab apple and red apple.

@WalkerWodehouse Wild Life Botanicals Sparkling Nude Delicate, Champagne‑style bubbles with aromas of gooseberry, greengage, and young banana.

Please contact your account manager for more information or to place an order.

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 75

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

Fells

Book your place at the

Fells Portfolio Tasting

Fells House, Station Road Kings Langley WD4 8LH

Tuesday 17th February

01442 870 900 For more details about these wines and other wines from our awardwinning portfolio from some of the world’s leading wine producing families contact: info@fells.co.uk

www.fells.co.uk

10am-5pm IET London, 2 Savoy Place, London WC2R 0BL We’re delighted to announce our flagship event is open for bookings.

Our biggest tasting of the year, with our whole portfolio on show, shared by some of the world’s most famous wine families.

• • •

Over 300 wines available to taste Poured for you by many of the families and winemakers themselves Masterclasses with rare bottles and cutting-edge topics Places filling up fast.

Scan the QR code below to book yours.

@FellsWine je_fells

get your own copy of THE WINE MERCHANT EVERY MONTH

subscribe for £85 at winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 76

ALIVINI Alivini Company Ltd Units 2-3, 199 Eade Road London N4 1DN

From the steep slopes of Valdobbiadene, in Italy’s Veneto region, sparkling wines crafted through heritage, dedication, and true heroic viticulture

020 8880 2526 london@alivini.com

Distributing Italian Excellence to the UK since 1975

jeroboams trade 7-9 Elliott’s Place London N1 8HX

020 7288 8888 sales@jeroboamstrade.co.uk www.jeroboamstrade.co.uk @jeroboamstrade

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 77

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

hallgarten wines Mulberry House Parkland Square 750 Capability Green Luton LU1 3LU 01582 722 538 sales@hnwines.co.uk www.hnwines.co.uk @hnwines

THE ANNUAL TASTING 2026 DISCOVER TASTE CONNECT

REGISTER HERE

Monday 2nd February, 10am – 6pm Tuesday 3rd February, 10am – 5pm Old Billingsgate, London

A CHANCE FOR INDEPENDENT MERCHANTS TO TASTE OVER 950 WINES FROM HALLGARTEN’S AWARD-WINNING PORTFOLIO.

mentzendorff The Woolyard 52 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3UD 020 7840 3600 info@mentzendorff.co.uk www.mentzendorff.co.uk

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 78

Q&A “I’m in the top 0.01% of Billy Joel listeners in the UK” Dan Belmont Good Wine Good People New Yorker Dan Belmont founded online retailer Good Wine Good People in 2020, branching into trade sales in 2024. In his home city he worked his way through a number of hospitality roles, becoming a wine and cheese expert in the process. When he arrived in the UK he spent three years at Bedales of Borough Market in London.

How do you relax?

I’ve got two toddlers – one is my daughter, and the other is GWGP. What is this word you say? Relax? Well, I don’t know if golf is particularly relaxing (especially how poorly I play), but it’s what I like to do when I have free time.

What’s the best book you’ve recently read?

Note the lack of relaxing as mentioned, I’m really pushing to take GWGP to the next level, so forgive the fact that Dirt by Bill Buford debuted in 2020. It’s the follow-up to Heat which was also excellent.

What’s your most treasured possession?

Nothing really comes to mind – it’s all just stuff. Doing the dad thing, being present and making memories with my family is top priority – not always easy, but certainly the most treasured. I’ve got a few prized bottles, but they’ll be drunk eventually.

What’s your proudest moment?

Hitting five years trading with GWGP was a big milestone for me – I’ve never stayed in any job as long as I’ve dedicated myself to this business. Steady (uphill) growth, one day at a time. Now I think we’ve developed a strong foundation to build something truly special on.

What’s the first wine you remember drinking?

Carlo Rossi Paisano while playing cards with my grandparents. First time tasting in earnest would be on the Monticello Wine Trail in Virginia shortly after turning 21.

What job would you be doing if you weren’t in the wine trade?

I have a theatre performance degree from university with a minor in theatre tech production – I did some very artistically fulfilling work back in the day, but it wasn’t bank account-filling, which brought me to hospitality, which brought me to wine.

If I didn’t fall so hard for wine, I probably would have found my way back to theatre in some form or fashion.

While I judge for IWSC, London Wine Competition and others, I don’t track or promote scores when it comes to our direct imports or retail portfolio. However I do have the utmost respect for wine writers like Karen MacNeil, Elaine Chukan Brown, Jancis (obvs), Tamlyn Currin, Madeline Puckette, Alice Feiring and Pascaline Lepeltier, to name just a few fave females.

What’s your biggest regret?

I try not to dwell on the regrets. But dying my hair blond at the age of 13 and deciding to keep my massive eyebrows dark – that shit keeps me up at night!.

Give us a TV recommendation.

It’s not always an easy watch, but I thought Dying for Sex was very good, particularly the performance by Jenny Slate. Adults had more than a few laugh-out-loud moments if you’re after something silly.

Do you have any sporting loyalties?

New York Mets. Don’t get me started.

Who’s your favourite music artist?

A couple years ago Spotify told me I’m in the top 0.01% of Billy Joel listeners in the UK. You can take the boy out of Long Island, but you can’t take the Long Island out of the boy.

Any superstitions?

Don’t congratulate someone on a putt until it’s completely in the cup.

Who’s your favourite wine critic?

THE WINE MERCHANT january 2026 79

Who’s your hero?

Oh, my wife for sure – talented, passionate, hardworking, headstrong, a fantastic mother to our daughter (even in the most trying of times – we’ve got a real threenager on our hands lately), and so incredibly supportive of this journey I’m on.

Any hidden talents?

I can sing (my degree is Music Theatre Performance, specifically), which these days mostly comes into play at bedtime and the occasional karaoke night. I’m about to officiate another wedding ceremony – my fourth; and I’m pretty quick with math, which is helpful. At the end of the day this gig is mostly spreadsheets.

If we could grant you one wish, what would it be?

Well, we’re still seeking investors for a London wine bar, so that would be nice.

But having just kicked off a new year, I wish that everyone gets a little bandwidth back this year, a moment to slow down and savour the good stuff – open a nice bottle and really immerse yourself in it.

Organised by erchant M e in W e h T AD SUPPLIED with in partnership SEPARATELY Hatch Mansfield Win one of five mixed cases

SURVEY OF INDEPENDENTS 2026

• Now in its 13th year: the most comprehensive analysis of the UK indie wine market • Results are published in our March and April editions • Take part at www.winemerchantmag.com