The Wine Merchant California Collection 2022

TY

FIF

ES

WIN

ed

ect

sel

by

ts

den

pen

e ind

•

AW

NE

AZI

AG TM

AN

RCH

ME

NT

ME

COLLECTION

PLE

SUP

MARCH 2022

INE

CALIFORNIA

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION MARCH 2022

Published by Graham Holter Ltd in association with the California Wine Institute UK & Ireland www.winemerchantmag.com www.californiawines.co.uk

Images © California Wine, Adobe Stock & Shutterstock

“What do we want from California Chardonnay?”

Syed said he thought his answer might be somewhat different to that of most of his customers. He prefers California Chardonnays that have what he calls a more “European, mineral” style. But, in general, his customers have something richer and riper, with a more obvious oak influence, in mind.

Of course, Syed wasn’t only thinking about Chardonnay. He could have been asking the same sort of question about Californian wine in general. What kind of wines do we want from the Golden State? What do we expect from its thousands of producers? Are wine merchants’ personal California preferences in line with most wine consumers?

That was one of the questions posed

by Riaz Syed, owner of Stonewines in Barnet, north London, in the Zoom meeting that followed the extensive, at-home tasting of 137 California wines conducted

by Syed and his fellow independent merchant judges of this year’s California Collection.

Happily, the California Collection showed that we shouldn’t agonise too much over these distinctions. As you’ll see over the next 35 pages, the Collection contains ample proof that the world’s fourth-largest winemaking “country” (only Italy, France and Spain produce more wine each year than California) is capable of meeting the needs and whims of every kind of wine drinker.

For sure, this was a tasting which seemed to confirm a trend that we noticed at last year’s tasting: that California – or at least the California we’re seeing in the UK – seems to be consolidating around its traditional strengths.

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, followed by Rhône varieties, accounted for the lion’s share of entries, while off-the-beaten-track varieties were noticeably fewer in number than they had been when we first started putting this list together in 2017.

What’s more, within each of those varietal categories, there were plenty of wines that showed off those crowd-pleasing California attributes identified by Syed: the sun-filled abundance of unashamedly ripe fruit and generous richness, many of them smoothed and enhanced by polished oak.

All the same, and as you would expect in a state of the scale and topographical and climatic diversity of California, there was also no shortage of wines that adhered to the lighter styles advocated by the In Pursuit of Balance movement in the 2010s and which, in truth, have always been produced in the state.

Judged purely on the 50 wines featured in these pages, today’s California is a place with many different and complementary signature styles. It’s the go-to place for outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon at its most lushly approachable – and in seriously deep and ageworthy mode. It has Zinfandel that ranges from the light and juicy to the hedonistically rich and fruity via the bittersweet and savoury. It makes Syrah in peppery cool-climate and spicily rich warm-climate modes. You can find exquisite old-vine Riesling and beguilingly, headily aromatic white Viognier-based blends.

And then there’s California Chardonnay, which also comes in a gorgeous multiplicity of styles from myriad terroirs – a variety that truly offers something for you and your customers, whatever your or their tastes.

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 5

OUR JUDGES chris cassell

calum chance

must & lees islington, london

tivoli wines cheltenham

danielle freer

rochelle garbutt

amps wines oundle

the wine club st helens

riaz syed

marc wise

stonewines barnet

9 vines brighton

david williams the wine merchant magazine

Chardonnay

£42.99

£49.99

£55.00

Domaine Anderson Chardonnay

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Russian River 2018

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2018

Anderson Valley Maisons Marques et Domaines

Russian River Valley Alliance Wine

Napa Valley Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

Louis Roederer’s Jean-Claude Rouzaud established Domaine Anderson in the picturesque, eponymous valley in Mendocino County in 1981. In the 40 years since, the Champenois family has brought all its expertise to bear in what have proved to be ideal conditions for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Using fruit exclusively sourced from the 50-acre estate vineyards, the “delightful” Chardonnay is “lemon fresh, with citrus, apples and tropical fruit; mineral fresh and lively on the palate”.

Paul Hobbs’s reputation as one of California’s most gifted winemakers is confirmed by this “classy” expression of Chardonnay from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. Fermented in barrel with natural yeasts, it’s then aged for 10 months in (55% new) French oak and for a further five in stainless steel to deliver a wine that is “beautifully elegant yet deep, with lovely ripe fruit couched in oak and a sweep of fresh soft acidity. Great length.”

Another star name of California wine, Miljenko “Mike” Grgich has, since 1977, built much of his reputation on the quality of his Chardonnays. Using fruit from the cool maritime-influenced southern tip of Napa Valley, the estate wine is an “exceptionally deep and resonant Chardonnay with ripe grapefruit, grilled peach and apricot and some patisserie/ barrel creaminess, but with excellent balance: it’s full flavoured and rich but with intense citrus fruit coming through on the long finish. Excellent.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 9

£27.99

£37.49

£40.00

J Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018

Marimar La Masía Chardonnay 2018

Melville Estate Chardonnay 2017

Russian River Valley J Vineyards & Winery

Russian River Valley Fells

Santa Rita Hills Vineyard Cellars

Using handpicked fruit sourced from vineyards across the classic Chardonnay growing area of Russian River Valley, J Vineyards’ is a “quintessential rich and ripe California Chardonnay”, the judges said. With each “vineyard, block and clone” vinified separately, the wine is a blend of 28 different lots, which is aged for nine months in (33% new) French oak. “Smooth, creamy and buttery, with pineapple on the finish and a hint of sweetness, and a pleasingly viscous, syrupy texture.”

Marimar Torres’ California operation has always benefited from her combination of the Old World knowhow of the Catalan Torres winemaking dynasty with an open-minded and flexible approach to the benign growing conditions on offer in the Russian River Valley. Her Masía Chardonnay is drawn from a high-density vineyard in Green Valley, the coolest, foggiest part of Russian River. “Very rich and ripe but gorgeous concentration, depth and length, with toasted macadamia nut and tangy marmalade-orange cut.”

Ron Melville and his sons were prime movers in the establishment of the Santa Rita Hills AVA back in the early 2000s, and their 120-acre vineyard in the region is now established as one of the best producers of cool-climate varieties in California. Fermented and aged in neutral (15-year-old) oak, the Chardonnay is “beautifully judged”, the judges said. “Aromatic peach, apricot, apple, and a hint of vanilla and almond; complexity and weight but plenty of citrussy life.”

10 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

£37.99

£47.51

Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay 2016

Morgan Double L Vineyard Chardonnay 2018

Santa Lucia Highlands gallo

Santa Lucia Highlands Matthew Clark

One of the first vineyards to be planted in the Santa Lucia Highlands, Talbott’s Sleepy Hollow now extends to more than 565 acres of benchland a mere 13 miles from Monterey Bay. The winemaking is all about making the most of the pristine Chardonnay fruit produced there, with the majority fermented and aged in stainless steel, with 30% seeing some oak. “Lots of energy and bright fruit, good texture and lots of complexity: it’s very smart and Burgundian.”

Named for the “double luck” of having twin daughters, Dan and Donna Lee’s 65-acre, organic estate is another early pioneer of the cool-climate Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. Making full use of the area’s famously long ripening season, the Lee’s vineyard has earned a high reputation for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay over the past 25 years. “A Chardonnay of high quality pristine fruit, nicely handled with plenty of toffee-creamy richness and toast. Length and energy; a tangy, long finish.”

£32.99

Sanford Chardonnay 2017 Santa Rita Hills Hallgarten & Novum Wines Majority-owned and run since the mid-2000s by the Terlato family, Sanford is lucky to have two of California’s most coveted cool-climate vineyards at its disposal for this scintillating Chardonnay.

The combination of fruit from the Sanford & Benedict vineyard (the first in Santa Rita Hills in 1971) and the adjacent La Riconada (planted in 1997) produces what our tasters described as a “fluent” wine with “nice acidity, lovely nuttiness and a mineral finish. Oak adds body without taking over the fruit.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 11

Riesling

£37.00

£22.08

White Blend

£37.00

Starmont Chardonnay 2017

Bedrock Wine Co Wirz Riesling 2019

Hope Family Wines Treana White 2018

Los Carneros, Humble Grape

California, Bancroft Wines

Part of the Merryvale stable of wines owned by the Schlatter family, the Starmont brand has been making wines that reflect the “best of California’s North Coast wine country” since the Chardonnay first emerged some 30 years ago. The latest vintage typifies the classic California rich, ripe approach.

“There’s some oak but it’s judicious and balanced with the soft but insistent acidity. The texture is soft and welcoming, there’s white peach and pear and very subtle toast. Good stuff.”

Morgan Twain-Peterson MW (son of Ravenswood founder and driving force Joel Peterson) and his winemaking partner Chris Cottrell’s Bedrock Wine Co is all about reviving old vineyards around California – including the Wirz vineyard, in the Cienega Valley, a relatively unheralded region south of Hollister.

Planted in 1963, it’s produced “one of the best Rieslings I’ve tasted outside of Germany”, said one judge. “Light, well-balanced minerality, green apple and hints of citrus, stone fruits, honey and lime.”

Central Coast Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

12 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

Discussion of California’s Rhône Rangers, and other latter-day producers working with Rhône varieties, tends to focus on the reds. But here’s a wine that shows parts of California are just as suitable for making exquisite Rhône-inspired dry whites. A blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, it’s “luscious, filled with marzipan and nougat. Creamy, rich, heady and with a wonderful floral (honeysuckle) finish plus a touch of oxidation for complexity.”

FELLS AD SUPPLIED SEPARATELY

Pinot Noir

£46.99

£27.99

£53.99

Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2014

Cambria Julia’s Pinot Noir 2018

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River 2018

Anderson Valley Maisons Marques et Domaines

Santa Maria Valley, Fells

Russian River Valley Alliance Wines

The second wine from Louis Roederer’s impeccably run Anderson Valley operation in this year’s California Collection is a “complex” blend of three sites from the estate’s 50-acre collection of organic and biodynamic vineyards: from the warmer Boonville to the Pacificcooled Deep End. “White pepper on the nose, and an attractive light red colour, the palate has soft red cherry, similar to an aged Beaujolais, white pepper and soft fruitiness with a hint of wet leaf on the finish.”

14 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

The Jackson family got going on the Cambria project in the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County back in 1986. Today, the reputation of the sustainably farmed, single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (plus small plots of Syrah and Viognier) continues to rise under the careful guidance of long-term winemaker Denise Shurtleff, with the California Collection judges finding a “beautiful wet-leaves Burgundian nose and taste with red cherry, pomegranate and vanilla, and nice complexity and length.”

Wine number two on the list from the great Paul Hobbs is a superb Pinot, based on grapes sourced from across the Russian River Valley, largely from “estates that are defined by their proximity to the coast and Russian River climate”, according to importer Alliance Wine. It is aged for 10 months in French oak barrique with a small percentage of whole cluster. “It’s expensive but classy. Well balanced with lots of juicy fruit and nice ripe tannins.”

DANIEL LAMBERT AD SUPPLED SEPARATELY

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 15

“I’m a fan of California for two reasons.”

Riaz Syed, Stonewines Firstly, it does well for my business. That’s a good staring point. You always get big bold wines, and while there hasn’t been much subtlety, I like that – I like those big statement Chardonnays and full on reds. [In this tasting] it was interesting to see a lot of them and see the finer points.

I went into it expecting Cab to be the one, but overwhelmingly [the variety I was impressed by] was Zinfandel. If you’re going down the route of warmclimate wines, Zinfandel can hold it, and I was really impressed with the Zinfandel range.

Calum Chance, Tivoli Wines

I wonder what do we want from a Chardonnay? My favourite wine of the tasting, Domaine Anderson Chardonnay, came from the bunch of Chardonnays, and it was a wine that was more restrained and mineral and “European”. But will it succeed in a UK market? A UK customer wants their California Chardonnays full-bodied and they want oak influence.

In my business we like to bring new wines in on a continual basis, and there’s definitely a few new things I found here I’d bring in.

“It’s always good to taste that many wines from one region in one go, and see a snapshot.”

Calum Chance, Tivoli Wines We’ve been wondering for a few years if California was going down a cooler climate route. But the overwhelming sense from this tasting is that they’re not. There are definitely some more European-style wines.

But for me they were mostly going down this very ripe, expensive oak, old school kind of route.

The highest scoring wines were from Segehesio and Montelena. The Montelena was one that felt the most balanced. The Seghesio is a classic warm-climate Zin. We’re going to be looking at our California and USA range in the next couple of months. I knew they were making good Zin, but I didn’t reallise they were making such good value right the way through. It’s given us some good ideas.

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 17

£35.99

£25.99

£29.99

J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018

La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 2018

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2019

Russian River Valley gallo

Monterey, fells

Sonoma Coast, Fells

Part of the Jackson family of estates, and this year celebrating its 40th anniversary, La Crema was set up with the idea of producing Pinot Noir on a par with the best of the state’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The focus has, therefore, always been on cool-climate areas such as, in this case, Monterey, with its pronounced cooling Pacific influence. “Classy silky texture; nice fruit compote.

This is a well made, harmonious Pinot with a fresh, tangy finish”

The second of La Crema’s regionally specific cool-climate Pinot Noirs to make the cut in this year’s California Collection is sourced from vineyards along the fashionable Sonoma Coast. The area is famous for its extended growing season, when chilly, foggy mornings give way to sunny afternoons. Aged for eight months in French oak, it’s “aromatic, with a good balance between light spicy red fruit and fresh acidity. The tannins are soft and juicy; good value for the quality.”

Conceived as a snapshot of the charms of Russian River Valley, this Pinot Noir uses grapes sourced from across the region, including a small percentage from J Vineyards Annapolis Ridge Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast. Fermented in open-top fermenters, some 40 separate lots are blended and aged in French oak, of which 29% is new. The outcome is a wine that is “well rounded, with a silky smooth texture, very good value for money. Nice formal branding, too.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 19

£44.99

£73.99

£69.99

Marimar La Masía Pinot Noir 2017

Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018

Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2018

Russian River Valley Fells

Russian River Valley Maisons Marques et Domaines

Sonoma Coast Maisons Marques et Domaines

Marimar Torres is one of the driving forces behind California’s rise as a Pinot Noir producer – and an important influence when it comes to sustainability. too. Biodynamic methods are employed across her estate, which is also 100% solar powered. It all comes together beautifully in this “lovely intense Pinot. It has expressive red cherry, wet leaf on the nose; on the palate there’s spiced cherry, forest fruit, a hint of leather and a long peppery finish.”

Founded by the eponymous winemaker in 1997, Merry Edwards now has 80 acres of sustainably farmed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Edwards’ core cuvée is a blend of vineyards from across the valley and is, the judges said, “a bit punchy on price, but it’s a lovely wine. Very aromatic with savoury notes of anise, forest floor, leaves, white pepper and red fruits.

Soft tannins with new world fruit.”

The second “superb” Pinot Noir from cool-climate specialist Merry Edwards draws on fruit from the Sonoma Coast, with its pronounced maritime climate of cooling morning fogs and sea breezes. A selection of lots produced from different clonal selections, the wine impressed the judges with its “hugely complex nose and concentrated palate. It has richness and elegance, with a delightful violet character, with spice and classic Pinot underbrush characters.”

20 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

GALLO AD SUPPLED SEPARATELY

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 21

22 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

“I absolutely enjoyed that tasting, it was really, really nice.”

Chris Cassell, Must & Lees Most of the wines were true to form to my expectations, but that’s not a bad thing. A lot of selling wine is about expectation and getting people to understand what they’re going to get when they take the wine home, and California always does really well on that.

It was nice to taste the Syrahs and different grapes that you usually don’t get to see. I don’t have many people coming into the shop asking for California Syrah, so I really ennoyed tasting those.

Most of the wines were true to form to my expectations, but that’s not a bad thing. A lot of selling wine is about expectation and getting people to understand what they’re going to get when they take the wine home and California always does really well on that.

The tasting hasn’t changed my mind in one way: I’ll continue to stock a lot of Cabernets and Chardonnays, those full-boded, big hitters.

There are still a lot of people looking for those and actually they sell pretty well for me.

The other thing is, I’ve always struggled in general with lower price point California. A lot of it can be quite bland. But actually I did find some wines that were a lot more reasonably priced wines. I’ll be adding a few more things [to my range] at the value end.

Finally, even though I didn’t have loads of them, I liked the Rieslings, Albariños and Syrahs and I’d like to see more of them. The Wirz Riesling I just really enjoyed for the price. It was really nice, easydrinking, dry and really complex. It would do really well on shelf.

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 23

Syrah/Rhône blends

£23.00

J Lohr South Ridge Syrah 2018

£45.00

Melville Estate Syrah 2017

Paso Robles, Vineyard Cellars

Santa Rita Hills Vineyard Cellars

One of California’s most popular family-owned brands, J Lohr has more than 2,700 acres of vineyards in Paso Robles, a region that founder Jerry Lohr helped pioneer as a source of quality wine, and where the company produces its Bordeaux and Rhône varietal red wines. The Syrah is made in an “accessible, commercial style”, the judges said. “Blackcurrant and berry hints on the nose. It’s easy to drink alone, but would be perfect with game; a nice informative label.”

Unashamedly influenced by the Northern Rhône, Melville Estate Syrah is nonetheless all about the distinctively Californian terroir of the Melville estate in the Santa Rita Hills. The wine, which is fermented in small open-top fermenters and aged in neutral oak barrels, is a “very serious cooler-climate Syrah with all the pepperpot white-and-black; sinewy tannins and crisp acidity, dark blackberry leading to black olive and a hint of meatiness; very satisfying and savoury, fresh Cali-Cornas.”

24 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

£29.95

Newfound Gravels Red 2019 California, Jeroboams Described by importer Jeroboams as the “very definition of New California”, the small family producer Newfound Wines makes a number of Grenache cuvées, plus Semillon, Pinot Noir and Carignan, from its base in the Sierra Foothills. This Grenache uses 100% whole cluster, wild yeasts and 2,000-litre foudres to create what was, for one judge, “one of my favourites in the entire tasting.

Aromatic red fruit, black pepper, with a blackcurrant finish and a touch of leather.”

BANCROFT AD SUPPLED SEPARATELY

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 25

£30.00

£39.99

£22.99

Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape 2018

Orin Swift Abstract 2019

Qupé Syrah Central Coast 2018

Central Coast, Nekter Wines

California, gallo

Central Coast, Alliance Wine

Another new-wave California wine explicitly taking its influence from the southern Rhône, Le P’tit Pape is a blend of Grenache (52%), Syrah (36%) and Mourvèdre (21%), with tiny drops of Terret and Counoise, sourced from four vineyards in Monterey and San Benito. “It has animal meatiness, liquorice and pepper spice, and it’s juicy but not heavy. On the palate it mixes rosemary and earthy-savoury notes and rosehip/red plum brightness. Lovely drinkable style, with ripe nippy tannins.”

Ex-Robert Mondavi winemaker David Swift Phinney has earned a reputation for funky attentiongrabbing wines and labels with his Orin Swift brand, which uses fruit sourced from various grower partners across the state. Abstract, for example, is a blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah with a vivid colour in the glass – and a pop-art collage label. “Inky-black colour, blueberry, stewed cherry, dark chocolate, green notes, and liquorice: enormous Grenache juiciness and a stylish label to boot.”

Qupé is one of the leading members of California’s non-profit club of Rhône Rangers, its founder Bob Lindquist the winner of a Lifetime Achievement Award in 2015 for his work promoting Rhône varietals in a cool-climate style from vineyards along the Central Coast of Santa Barbara County.

This Syrah has 16 months in French oak and 10% whole cluster. “Fragrant, juicy, varietally true, gently peppered Crozes-Hermitage-style Syrah,” the judges said. “Really nice intense raspberry and blackberry.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 27

Merlot

£26.99

£39.49

Cabernet Sauvignon

£69.00

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas 2018

Charles Krug Napa Valley Merlot 2018

Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Paso Robles, Liberty Wines

Napa Valley, Top Selection

Based in Paso Robles, and drawing on the distinct skills and knowhow of its two founding families – the Perrins of Château Beaucastel in Châteauneufdu-Pape and others, and the Haas family of California’s Vineyard Brands – Tablas Creek Vineyard is one of the leading exponents of Rhône-style wines in California. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise, Patelin de Tablas is “spicy, earthy, and warm with nice fresh berry fruit, olive and dried herb. Proper Rhône-ish complexity and drinkability. Very good.”

An iconic name in California wine, Charles Krug established his property – said to be the oldest wine estate in the whole of Napa – way back in 1861. For the past three-quarters of a century, the estate has been owned by Mondavi, and today it’s still producing classic Napa wines such as this 100% Merlot with its “immediately alluring ripe berry and blackcurrant fruit, and long and creamy palate. It’s sun-filled but not excessive, with firm but fine-grained tannins. Serious and ageworthy, it’s still hugely enjoyable now.”

Paso Robles Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

28 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

After growing up among the vines of his family’s California wine business, and then training as a winemaker in California and the Rhône, Austin Hope had long harboured a desire to make a great Cabernet Sauvignon in his native Paso Robles.

Since 2017, it’s been a case of mission very much accomplished. “Rich raisiny aromas, seriously, concentrated flavours of blackcurrants, leather, cloves and white pepper. Dense viscous texture and a long finish. Overall, an impressive, showy wine.”

£58.00

£38.99

DAOU Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Decoy Limited Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Paso Robles Carson & Carnevale Wines Brothers Georges and Daniel Daou took a somewhat circuitous route to vinous success. Born in Lebanon, they grew up in France, before emigrating to the USA and making their fortune with a computer business.

For the past quarter-century, however, they have been producing outstanding wines from their Daou Mountain property in Paso Robles. “Aromas and flavours of blackcurrant, dark chocolate, black olives and cedar. A very well made wine and impressive allround product. A special-occasion wine.”

Napa Valley, Top Selection “Everyday wines for the well-informed” is the slogan at Duckhorn Vineyard’s Decoy. The Limited series is a little bit more than that, however, offering wines from some of the best vineyard sites in the Napa Valley and Sonoma Coast. The Cabernet is aged for 14 months in French oak, 40% of which is new, and emerges with a “lovely combination of elegance and power, with ripe black fruit. The tannins are still young, but there’s time for those to resolve.

A class package.”

£16.24

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Lodi, Bancroft Wines Gnarly Head is probably best known for Zinfandel, the variety that was the Lodi winery’s original focus:.

Increasingly, however, it’s earning plaudits and fans for its good-value, fruit-forward, quintessentially Californian take on other varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, which in this bottling is drawn from sites across Paso Robles and aged in a mixture of French and American oak.

“It’s soft and juicy and super easy to drink with plenty going on for the price,” our panel of tasters agreed. “An easy sell.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 29

30 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

“I really enjoyed the Rieslings. Balanced, clean, fresh … stunning.”

Rochelle Garbutt, The Wine Club

The tasting was valuable for me because being in the north we’re a bit more price sensitive and it was good to see what range we could get for a little bit of a lower price point, and the value we could get from that: some good value for money wines that won’t break the bank and that would work in my shop.

Rochelle Garbutt

I found the tasting really interesting. It’s not really an area I’m particularly expert in, I didn’t have a huge handle on them before, so it was really interesting to broaden my knowledge.

I was expecting big bold Chardonnays and Zins, but it was really nice to see the other things that California’s got to offer. I got a lot of out it in terms of thinking where I can take my California range in my retail shop.

I really enjoyed the Rieslings. I thought they were excellent. Just really balanced, clean, fresh … stunning. I generally go down the German Riesling route, but I was just impressed by both of the California Rieslings: beautiful wines.

I’ll certainly be looking at widening our selection of Californian wines in the shop and moving away from just the perception of expensive Chardonnays and big bold reds.

“It’s nice to be reminded how good the Cabs are.”

Marc Wise, 9 Vines We had a lot of Pinot, and in terms of value for money it was our top variety. Looking at our top six wines, three of them were Pinot. And in particular the Foxglove Pinot, in terms of balance, was really elegant with lovely aromatics. I was quite impressed with Pinot.

It’s nice to be reminded how good the Cabernets are. They’re cracking wines. They’re not cheap. But things like the Charles Krug and Grgich Hills are absolutely outstanding wines. We also had a couple of Viognier-based wines. I really enjoyed those. The top-scoring white was the Treana, a Northern Rhône style white: that would sell.

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 31

£85.00

£65.00

Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Napa Valley Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

Alexander Valley, Sonoma County House of Townend

Complementing the Grgich Chardonnay, the estate Cabernet is primarily built on fruit from the family’s certified-organic Yountville vineyard, supplemented with parcels from Rutherford and Calistoga (also organic). With small proportions of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the blend, it has a “Classic Cab nose: cedar, leather, blackcurrants. Plum and blackberries on the palate with really lovely acidity and a flavour that builds and explodes. Lifted fresh and delicious.”

Jordan Winery has been synonymous with quality Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon since the early 1970s, with the estate keeping a library of back vintages going back as far as 1977. Still family-owned and run, the accent is on sustainability in the vineyards and “European-style” elegance in the winery. “Nice to see a touch of age, which brings lovely truffly maturity while retaining that delightful slick of ripe black fruit,” the judges said. “Oak is in balance; good length, very well made.”

32 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

£53.49

Charles Krug Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Napa Valley, Top Selection The second selection from this historic Napa winery in this year’s California Collection is a textbook Cabernet Sauvignon. Sourced predominantly from the Charles Krug Yountville vineyard, and featuring a little of each of Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec in the mix, the wine is aged for 14 to 18 months in French oak. “Lovely aromatic nose, blackcurrants, cedar, cloves. Beautifully balanced acidity, tannin, and richness of fruit with evolving red fruits and real length. Classy.”

£83.48

£33.50

£45.00

Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Smith & Hook Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Oakville, Napa Valley Matthew Clark

Central Coast Castelnau Wine Agencies

North Coast, Humble Grape

One of the biggest historic names in Napa wine history is still a major Californian player, capable of producing quality at all price levels, from entry-level to seriously super-premium. This cuvée, featuring fruit from vineyards around the Mondavi winery in the Oakville district of Napa, is nudging towards the higher reaches, but has the quality to justify the price.

“Deliciously ripe, chewy tannins, and lovely bold lush dark fruit. A serious, classic wine filled with intensity.”

The team at Smith & Hope describes its signature style as “robust, richly layered wines”. To achieve this it works with a selection of local growers in some of the Central Coast’s warmer areas: Arroyo Seco, Paso Robles, San Antonio Valley, Hames Valley and San Benito, with this Cabernet being a blend from across the area.

“Intense blackberry fruit flavours with a weighty, oaky richness, spice and leather; really viscous and lingering.

Not cheap, but good value for the price.”

Starmont may have made its name with its popular Carneros Chardonnay (which our judges also voted into this year’s Collection). But the winery is just as adept with Cabernet Sauvignon, which is sourced from top sites across Northern California, including in Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino. “While not stinting on depth of flavour and fleshy fruit, this Cabernet is relatively restrained, with lovely freshness, brightness and lift. A lighter style with a real touch of elegance.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 33

£39.99

£23.99

£75.75

Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Trefethen Eshcol Red

Trinchero Napa Valley Mario’s Cabernet Sauvignon

Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Daniel Lambert Wines

Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Daniel Lambert Wines

Napa Valley Vintrigue by Lanchester Wines

A California Collection wouldn’t be the same without at least one wine from the consistently excellent Napa producer Trefethen. The family-run winery has been a star performer in this tasting since its inception. The Cabernet Sauvignon takes full advantage of the benign growing conditions in the Oak Knoll District. “Classy, very classic Napa Cab at a considerably more attractive price than some; oak tones nicely shading the ripe cassis fruit and darker olive and fresh tobacco notes. Great length.”

Is this perhaps the best-value Bordeaux blend in California? Our judges would certainly put it right near the top of such a list. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and small amounts of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, “there’s a lot of wine for the money”, our panel agreed.

“Nicely structured with proper tannin and acidity and a bit of savoury oak, some nice grip and freshness, but lots of ripe compote cassis fruit, length and complexity.”

The Trinchero family has been a success at all levels of the California wine industry, from huge-selling brands to collector’s item single-vineyard bottlings.

But the limited-production wines the family makes from its vineyards in Napa are among its proudest achievements. From a vineyard right by the home winery in St Helena, Mario’s Cabernet Sauvignon is “big and mouth-filling, with tarry black fruit, and a fleshy, plummy texture. Finishes with stony minerality and dusty tannins. If you want proper Napa Cab, this is it.”

34 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 35

Zinfandel

£14.99

£58.75

£19.99

Cline Cellars Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel 2019

Dueling Pistols Dry Creek Valley Red Blend 2016

Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel 2017

Lodi, Boutinot

Dry Creek Valley Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

Lodi, Daniel Lambert Wines

An old favourite of both the California Collection and the independent trade more generally, Cline Cellars’ flagship Zinfandel is as appealing as ever.

Produced in this vintage from 14 different sites around the Zin heartland of Lodi, the finished blend is aged for eight months in wood, a third of which is new. “Excellent freshness considering how much ripe sweet fruit it has, as well as good complexity and nice balance. Will appeal to Zin fans and newbies alike.”

The stylish packaging sets the scene nicely for an intriguing blend: a 50/50 combination of Zinfandel and Syrah from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County.

The blend is given 18 months in French oak, 30% new, to smooth the tannins, leaving a wine that is “dark and moody, with the Syrah component dominating on the nose. It’s gorgeous on the palate, just so drinkable, with blackcurrant and bitter chocolate and great oak rounding it out.”

With a trio of wines making it into this year’s selection, Klinker Brick was one of the stars of this year’s California Collection. All the wines are based on the superb resource of old-vine Zinfandel that makes Lodi so special, with this first wine seriously impressing the judges with its high quality-to-price ratio. “One to follow up with the supplier,” one judge said. “Spice, pepper, black fruit, not jammy … it’s an excellent example of its type and it’s so well priced.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 37

£31.99

Klinker Brick Old Ghost Old Vine Zinfandel 2017 Lodi, Daniel Lambert Wines Steve and Lori Felten, the fifth-generation Lodi grape growers behind Klinker Brick, reckon the Old Ghost Old Vine cuvée is the pinnacle of their production each year. It’s drawn from ancient 100-year-old Zinfandel vines that yield less than 1 tonne per acre, and which brings flavours of “peppers, cloves, Christmas pudding, and concentrated blueberry fruit with earthy tones and smooth tannins. Expensive Zinfandel is a hard sell but this does deliver, with a lovely smokiness.”

38 | CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT

£26.99

Klinker Brick Marisa Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel 2017 Lodi, Daniel Lambert Wines A single, 91-year-old vineyard is the very special place behind Klinker Brick’s final entry in this year’s California Collection. Located in the Mokelumne River district of Lodi, it provides wonderfully concentrated, yet balanced and complex fruit, which is fermented in barrel. “Properly made, full of rich dried fruit flavours; plummy, with black pepper and blackcurrant, but beautifully balanced. What’s not to love?”

£35.41

Chateau Montelena Calistoga Zinfandel 2016 Calistoga, Napa, Bancroft Wines One of the great names of California’s rise to global prominence in the 1970s, Chateau Montelena will be forever be associated with the Chardonnay that took the top prize in the 1976 Judgement of Paris. But the winery’s talents are multifarious, and this Zinfandel comes from the Calistoga AVA in Napa. “Very traditional label and made in a restrained, subtle way, not your typical Zin. Lovely balance of oak, fruit and acidity. A serious wine to age, but approachable now.”

£16.25

The Specialyst 2018 Lodi, Vintrigue

by Lanchester Wines The stylish packaging is undeniably a significant part of the draw of The Specialyst. It’s the work of illustrator and designer Andrew Davidson, whose work in the past has taken in everything from Wimbledon Centre Court to the Harry Potter books.

Here Davidson’s label graces a fruit-driven blend of Zinfandel from sites across Lodi. “A really bright, fresh, slightly lighter style of Zin,” said one judge.

“I love the packaging and the back story. Would be a solid consumer choice on our shelves.”

£45.50

Orin Swift 8 Years in the Desert 2019 California, gallo Another attention-grabbing bottle and label; an arresting, uncompromisingly full-flavoured wine from Orin Swift. The fruit for the blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah is sourced from partner growers across the state and harvested deliberately late for maximum ripeness. Aged for eight months in French oak, it’s high in alcohol but, for the judges, it works. “Peppery, leathery, inky black, concentrated black spiced cherry. It holds the alcohol very well, like a good Amarone.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2022 THE WINE MERCHANT | 39

Published by Graham Holter Ltd in association with the California Wine Institute UK & Ireland www.winemerchantmag.com www.californiawines.co.uk