Going Green

What's the difference between organic, biodynamic, sustainable and regenerative viticulture? And do these terms make any difference to the taste of the wine? Chris Boiling investigates...

The new vineyard manager at an old wine estate in South Australia was worried. He could see that the gnarly old vines, planted in 1893, might die during his watch if he continued the 'modern' methods of viticulture that he'd learned at university - especially in the face of hotter summers and drier winters.

He did some research and took the brave decision to stop using pesticides and herbicides, to stop tilling the soil, to plant native grasses between the rows of vines, and to bring bats in to eat grapevine moths. He abandoned his old ways and embraced the new. At first this was organic and now it is regenerative farming.

But what do these terms really mean - and can you taste the difference?

Organic: Back to Basics

Organic viticulture is perhaps the most well-known sustainable approach in the wine world. This method prohibits the use of synthetic chemicals, including pesticides, herbicides, and fertilisers. Instead, organic grape-growers rely on natural alternatives to maintain soil fertility (like composted waste) and to control pests and diseases. Instead of using herbicides, they use mechanical methods to control weeds.

But even organic producers are allowed to spray copper sulphate to thwart the main enemy of grapes - mildew. They may not spray herbicides, but tilling under every row of vines increases tractor usage, topsoil loss and soil compaction. Another criticism of organic farming is that the bodies that certify it (eg ECOCERT, Letis, USDA, BioGro) don't check on the amount of water used to irrigate the vines or if workers are being treated ethically.

Biodynamic: Holistic Harmony

Biodynamic farming takes organic principles a step further, viewing the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem. This holistic approach, developed in the 1920s by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, incorporates special preparations into farming practices to increase soil fertility and microbial activity, while reducing tillage, and replacing mono-culture with biodiversity.

The most famous preparations involve burying cow horns stuffed with either cow manure or ground quartz to "harvest cosmic forces in the soil". After six months, they will be dug up, "dynamized" in water and sprayed near the vines.

Much of the work - including planting, harvesting, bottling and burying the preparations - is carried out after consulting the lunar calendar.

Some of the world's greatest vineyards hold biodynamic certification from organisations such as Demeter or Biodyvin.

However, this farming choice has some of the same limitations as organics in that it doesn't mandate farm worker welfare, or the reduction of resources In addition, its critics point out it was written 100 years ago by a man with little first-hand farming experience who spends more time talking about cosmic and spiritual energy than agriculture.

Sustainable: The Middle Ground

Sustainable viticulture sits somewhere between conventional and organic farming. It aims to reduce the environmental impact of wine production while maintaining economic viability.

The key thrusts include reducing the use of chemical inputs, water and energy; reducing waste and recycling as much as possible.

There is an increasing social element to these programmes which sees wineries working with and helping their local communities.

While not as strict as organic or biodynamic methods, sustainable viticulture has the advantage of being more accessible to a wider range of producers.

One problem with the term "sustainable" is that anyone can claim what they are doing is sustainable. There are "certified sustainable" programmes, but each certification has its own criteria for measuring how the applicant advances the goals of reducing the environmental and social impacts of grape-growing. Certification schemes include: HVE in France (Champagne has its own scheme - VDC); WASP in Portugal; Equalitas and SQNPI in Italy; CCSW, SIP, Lodi Rules and LIVE Certified in the USA; and SWSA in South Africa. Australia has a national programme called Sustainable Winegrowing Australia and Chile has a sustainability certification managed by Wines of Chile

B Corporation is an international certification for wineries that are committed to using low-impact farming methods and responsible resource management, as well as treating their workforce, community and natural surroundings fairly and responsibly.

Critics point out that some producers who claim to be "sustainable" are still spraying herbicides and pesticides.

Regenerative: The New Frontier

Regenerative viticulture is a relatively new concept that's gaining traction in the wine world. This approach goes beyond sustainability to actively regenerate ecosystems and improve soil health, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration.

It begins with the soil health and biodiversity core of biodynamics but leaves out the mystical elements. It also adds farm worker equity from the best of the sustainability certifications.

The United Nations has called it "one of the most effective ways to make food systems more sustainable; and to build a safer, cleaner, more inclusive post-Covid world".

The key thing to look for is Regenerative Organic Certification, which is administered by the nonprofit Regenerative Organic Alliance.

But which wine tastes best?

There's no one-size-fits-all approach to sustainable viticulture. Each method has its own philosophy and practices, ranging from the strictly regulated organic and biodynamic approaches to more flexible regenerative and sustainable methods.

Ultimately, the choice of farming method depends on various factors, including climate, soil type, and the winemaker's personal philosophy. What's clear is that the wine industry is increasingly recognising the importance of environmental stewardship, and that?s something we can all raise a glass to.

But can we notice any differences in the glass?

There's an ongoing debate in the wine world about whether wines made using organic, biodynamic, sustainable or regenerative practices taste better than conventionally produced wines. While there's no definitive scientific consensus, many wine experts and consumers believe these alternative viticultural methods can lead to superior wines.

I believe this is because of the extra care and attention given to the vineyards by practitioners of these eco-friendlier methods. Then there is the improved soil health, reduction in chemicals, and increased biodiversity - factors which are more likely to lead to healthier vines with deeper root systems, making them better equipped to withstand extreme weather events and climate change. These factors are also more likely to lead to more complex and healthier wines with fewer chemical residues - giving a truer expression of the terroir (the unique environmental factors that differentiate wines from different regions).

Or it may just be that I feel better knowing I have bought a wine from a producer who truly cares about their slice of Planet Earth and their role in protecting it.