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DIOR MAGAZINE

No. 1

FUTURE NOSTALGIA

DIOR

C D CHRISTIAN

Christian Dior is a French fashion designer and founder of the House of Dior. Growing up in Normandy, he had a background in fine art before training as a dress designer at Lucien Lelong where he developed his personal style and fashion tastes. Christian Dior was deeply inspired by flowers and his garden, his childhood home and his fascination with astrology and numerology. Dior’s design objective was to create elegant and beautiful clothing for women, and in 1947 he released the “New Look” collection featuring feminine silhouettes, cinched waists and full skirts. Building his reputation in a post-war world, opulence and elegance became synonymous with the brand of Dior. His designs included the A-Line silhouette, which required yards of luxurious fabric to create

a full skirt, darted into the waist to show off the figure, and the Bar Jacket which achieved the effect of a corset through tailoring to shape the body and create beautiful, feminine lines. After “New Look”, Christian Dior continued to build his brand and design revolutionary pieces, revitalising the French fashion industry and Parisian couturiers. Dior strongly led the brand into luxury status and worldwide recognition for ten years, until his untimely death in 1957. His assistant Yves Saint Laurent took over the house and held this position until 1960, and since then designers such as Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferrè, John Galliano and Maria Grazia Chiuri have led Dior and its enduring legacy.

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MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI Maria Grazia Chiuri is an Italian fashion designer born in Rome in 1964. Growing up, her mother worked in a sewing workshop and opened her own boutique in Rome, and Maria was inspired by her, as well as her grandmother and sisters (People Pill, 2020). She studied at the Instituto Europeo di Design, then began designing handbags at Fendi in 1989 where she created the Baguette bag, one of Fendi’s most famous designs. In 1999, she joined Valentino and was designing the accessory lines. At this point in time she was also approached to design bags for Dior, but declined. In 2008, she was promoted to Co-Artistic Director of Valentino alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli, and together they evolved the brand. Her style was considered to be romantic and Italian reminiscent (Moss H, 2016). In 2016 she was appointed as Creative Director of Dior, becoming the first woman to hold this position in the Maison. Maria Grazia Chuiri has a strong emphasis on craft, female-identified artisanship and feminism that relates deeply to all of her work. She has an understanding of clothing and how it has a greater meaning than just aesthetics, and acknowledges how traditional gender roles have held women back in the past (Okeowo A, 2020). Chuiri’s debut collection for Dior Spring 2017 took inspiration from these ideas, and even featured T-shirts printed with the words “We Should All Be Feminists”. She strives to include these underlying tones of feminist theory and encourages discussion to give a voice to these important topics (Okeowo A, 2020).

MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI

DIOR RESORT 2022 FEMININITY

The Dior Resort 2022 collection took place in the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens, and reflected a strong Ancient Greek and athletic aesthetic. Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired during lockdown by the idea that “sport is movement, sport is freedom” (Madsen A, 2021). Chiuri has adapted Greek fashion without directly copying it, taking inspiration from the silhouettes and colour palette but transforming

them into modern garments. She also wanted to honour women throughout history, with the collection being feminine and elegant. (Malzahn C, 2021). The goddess gowns reflected an updated version of the peplos, a robe that women in Ancient Greece traditionally wore, and the feminine tones were further reflected in the strong and purposeful attitude of the models down the runway (Diderich J, 2021).

N DIOR RESORT 2022

The feminine, athletic feel of the Dior Resort 2022 collection is not only modern, but takes inspiration from Christian Dior and his earliest collection New Look. Maria Grazia Churi has taken the Bar Jacket, a Christian Dior staple, and deconstructed and adapted it by making

the design more athletic (Madsen A, 2021). The classic silhouette of the Bar Jacket was reimagined into a relaxed version with tone-on-tone

embroidery,

and the pleated skirts that also featured in New Look are reflected in the flowing gowns

pleated and

skirts

in Chiuri’s designs (Diderich J, 2021).

LOOK

W SILHOUETTE 8

The white flowing dresses, activewear and abstract prints of the Dior Resort 2022 collection were contrasted with the use of metallic accessories, elevating and styling the looks of the collection to further reflect on the Ancient Greek aesthetic. Greek jewellery was ornate and

often crafted with expensive metals, and were symbols of sophistication and wealth for the people who wore them. (Singapuri N, 2019). Dior’s styling with these gold and silver metallics not only draws on ancient design and aesthetics, but also creates connotations of taste and luxury.

DIOR RESORT 2022 METALLICS 10

DEN 11

NIM 12

DENIM AND DIOR Dior has recently been exploring denim designs, and has transformed the fabric that was once known in a utilitarian and workwear context into a luxury and high end one. Denim has been used for skirts, jeans and jackets, and styled with other garments and accessories to create luxurious looks. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collections not only incorporate denim, but the colour blue has become a significant identifier of Dior. Chiuri’s

links the use of the colour and its symbolism across many things such as utility wear, blue Picasso and Chagall paintings, jazz blues and meanings of the universe and spirituality (Mower S, 2017). The current direction of Dior is to “broaden the brand’s appeal and make it inclusive of many kinds of tastes”, allowing expression and representation, and making denim associated with luxury is a part of this (Mower S, 2017).

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PARIS - DIOR SPRING 2018 Look 53 from the Dior Spring 2018 RTW Collection is a long, flowy light blue denim dress, with white lace panelling creating transparent details. It has a feminine silhouette, and the lace creates contrast as well as the idea of delicateness and romance. These features, along with being styled with a beret, make this look a perfect Parisian marketed look for Dior. French style is known for being casually elegant and chic, and spring/summer dresses are staples in a French wardrobe (Elle R, 2021).

LONDON - DIOR FALL 2017 Look 10 from the Dior Fall RTW Collection 2017 is a dark navy blue look that includes denim jeans, a button up blouse and a long flowing jacket, styled with necklaces, rings and a hat. London style is similar to a business-casual look, with tailored jackets, jeans and blouses being popular. Dark colour palettes are very common,

and with a cooler climate layering garments is important (travelfashion, 2021). English style is associated with traditional craftsmanship such as tailoring and shirt making etc, and this quality and specialisation aligns with Dior, how Christian Dior designed and the direction the house is going in today.

NEW YORK - DIOR SPRING 2017 The style in New York is “eclectic, grandiose and always trendy” (Bakshi P, 2020), and this look from Dior Spring 2018 RTW is an outfit that could be successfully sold in Dior retail outlets in New York. Released as a part of the spring collection, this look is suitable for New York’s spring climate with the season’s temperatures ranging from cool to very warm (NYC Go, 2021). It is a youthful, edgier and

feminist driven look, which is fitting for New Yorkers and their bold attitudes. It consists of the Dior Arty Cap with Veil in a blue cotton denim, the iconic Dior Book Tote Bag and blue denim patched jeans. The tshirt stating “why have there been no great women artists” is also relatable to the city and its culture of art, music and fashion, and reinforces Maria Grazia Chiuri’s feminist message.

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White and Navy Blue Polo shirt

Finish Metal, Cotton and White

- $2000

resin pearls - $820

Navy Blue Toile de Jouy

Clair D Lune Ring, Gold-Finish

Jacquard Skirt - $4700

Metal and White Crystals -

Dior Act Sandal, white lambskin

$650

- $1650

J’Adior Necklace, Gold-Finish

Christian Dior cotton athletic

Metal with a White Pearl and

Socks - $420

White Crystal - $880

Dior blue Toile de Jouy school

Dior Waterproof Eyeliner Pencil

cap - $800

- $40

CD Navy Bracelet, Gold Finish

Dior Lip Glow - $50

Metal and White Crystals $770

J’Adior Ring, Gold-Finish Metal with a White Resin Pearl and a White Crystal - $570

GETTHE LOOK

FALL 2021

Dior Beach Bracelet, Gold-

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Dua Lipa is the new brand ambassador for Dior and will feature in the luxury denim campaign. She has a good reputation as a singer/songwriter, has many connections within the fashion industry and publicly is very feminist and vocal on social issues, incorporating the idea of female empowerment into her work which aligns with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s beliefs (Faulkner N, 2020). Lipa uses fashion as “another outlet for creativity, another extension of my music and who I am as an artist. Fashion is an extension of what I’d like to say” (Wong Z, 2018), and as her career has grown her style has evolved into more luxury and high end looks. She is known for both monochromatic and colourful outfits of all silhouettes and fabrics, and fuses modern trends with past decades fashion such as the 60’s, 70’s and 90’s (College Fashion, 2021). This element of her style is then fitting with the campaign’s concept of Future Nostalgia, referencing Dior heritage while still being a modern, futuristic design. With 68.1 million followers on Instagram, she has a huge global presence and influence, and her target market is worldwide with both teenagers and adults. Her versatility with fashion and her personal beliefs are fitting with Dior’s image, speaking to the type of luxury Maria Grazia Chiuri is currently designing and what she is influenced by.

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FUTU FUTU FUTU FUTU

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FUTURE The concept “Future Nostalgia” revolves around the idea of Dior’s current design direction, being influenced by the heritage of the house while being innovative, creative, and designing for the future. Christian Dior’s New Look is a main source of inspiration in silhouette and aesthetic.The name of the concept is also inspired by ambassador Dua Lipa and her personal style. The colourful, pastel colour palette is dreamy and reminiscent yet modern and youthful. Aspects of black and white imagery contrast and reflect on the heritage of Dior, providing the nostalgic element, while the denim and campaign influenced by the ambassador give the modern feel.

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