William D'Arcy - Mini mag - SD2 MEL

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SADDLE

The iconic Saddle bag has been reinvented in two sizes with leather, Dior Oblique canvas and embroidery versions available. Sold separately, the embroidered wide canvas straps add a stylish touch and allow the bag to be carried in different ways.

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C hristian

DIOR F ather to the House,

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C hristian

DIOR F ather to the House, A war-torn Europe, a ravaged France, and Paris. Enter Christan Dior, winning the world over to his daring vision and framing of a ‘the new look’ for feminine elegance. If there was ever any doubt upon who held the title of the fashion capital, Dior made it certain to the world. Paris.

From 1947 to 1957 he completely changed and glamorized haute couture. No notion of rationed fabric haultd his elegant world-changing implementation of roll after roll of fabric. His collection including his first, the ‘new look, became household names. It’s clear to us now that his designs and tailoring inspire even today but of its time it was new, innovative, and expensive in a world recently deprived of all.

Post world France, and society took his excessive use of fabric and material to be insulting to those who had lost everything.

But time found suits and dresses crafted to the working woman who craved a professional yet feminine silhouette, like his “Pentecote” from his spring-summer 1950 collection (Sayej, Nadja, 2021). Famed also for evening gowns, both traditional yet modern by today’s standards, such as “Topaze” a dress from 1951 fall-winter collection.

Yes, famed for his conture he undoubtedly was. But he had just as much thought and care for his desire to be as much a perfumer as he was a couturier (Dior). Enter, Miss Dior, his first perfume, devaluing alongside his very first fashion collection. The ‘new look’ was delivered side by side with an aroma to match his elegant forms.

Devout to superstition the man saw his death coming. 24 October 1957. Consulting a tarot card reader on the regular, his death was no surprise to him (YVONNE,2018). But to the nation, “France had ceased to live” (Bergé, ​​Pierre, 1983). His funeral was practically national, symbolic of his collection of floral motifs; many flowers found themselves in the house of Dior. Women bearing flowers were waiting as his coffin passed through towns to his final resting place ( Saint Laurent, Yves, 1983).

War took everything from Paris, France, and Europe.

Christan Dior was thereafter it all to bring a post-war elegance, both simple and minimal embellished with v overwhelming style. Without a doubt, he “reflects the times”.

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Christian Dior (1946-1957)

Yves Saint Laurent (1957-1960)

Marc Bohan (1960-1989) Gianfranco Ferrè (1989-1997)

John Galliano (1997-2011) Hedi Slimane (2000-2006) Kris Van Assche (2007-2018)

Raf Simons (2012-2015) Maria Grazia

Chiuri (2016-today) vii

M a r i a G r a z i a C h i u r i In September 2016, Dior’s Paris fashion week debuted the collection of the first female creative director in the history of the brand. Chiuri took a bold lead, with a clear mission.

Before 2016, Chiuri spent 17 years at Valentino, 8 of which were at the brand’s creative helm alongside long-term collaborators Pierpaolo Piccioli.

With Dior, Chiuri was swift to bring back the iconic saddle bag alongside influencers’ marketing strategy seeing Dior accessories catapulted across Instagram in the hands of influencers and brand ambassadors.

Always pushing a movement of feminism, recognition of female and historical underdogs. hiring female photographers for a start, and the inclusion of local technics such as west African wax prints in the cruise 2020 show.

From dawning military jackets in place of her parent’s feminine dress code to sitting at the head of the

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creative direction team her mission has always been clear, and her pursuit is now that much stronger.

Maria Grazia Chiuri continues to bring an abundance of recurring themes, we’ve seen it in collection after collection, I Assure you, you will see her continued devotion to her motifs and mission over her work. And if it’s not clear as day to you, We’ve highlighted Chiuri’s devotion to locals and their craft in Puglia, and we see this classic theme on her collection out of Marrakesh. We see the utilization of local craft, weaving, art styles, wax dyeing, Chiuri strives to spotlight all the beautiful methods and history of people who sit outside of that spotlight.

Ever fighting for these historical underdog types continued in her very personal mission to highlight the areas that feminine equality lacks, constantly looking to bring forth female photographers, artists, and just fighting for room in a long male-dominated world.

“You must Fight for you’re ideas” ix

DIOR

Into,

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DENIM Gone are the days of sweats.

Jeans are back and contour is loving its ready-to-wear aesthetic.

Denim is durable, enduring, and powerful.

We’ve seen Jeans on Dior’s runways, in Hedi Slimane’s men’s shows, and in several Galliano collections(), but without consistency. In a world that is getting extremely casual, it’s Chiuri’s opportunity to broaden Dior’s scope and bring relevance to the wears.

Denim dresses have been popular for a while, seen in summer climates but this is an upand-coming application of Dior’s denim range, as we see more examples such as Bella Hadid waring denim-style dresses by Dior

in the cooler months of NYC. Dior’s new endeavors in denim are creating a range of wearable, durable everyday wear for chic and casual figures (LORNA, 2017). featuring denim as supporting wears for the message, Chiuri Milestone collection, the designer’s debut with girl power statement woven heavily though. Graphic tees emblazoned with the words “we should all be feminist” run the length of the walkway. (FISHER, LAUREN, 2016)

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D ior’s

DENIM We see denim highlighted as featured in her next collection of fall 2017.

Girls marching to the beat of Christian Dior in an almost militaristic air dawned in “slouchy denim and soft washed-out workwear” (SARAH MOWER,2017) and black berets.

Chiuri references the faded cultural factory style that combined world war 2, showing a parallel to Rosie the riveter (SARAH MOWER,2017).

All whilst mimicking the 70’s firstwave feminist uniform that falls in line with her mission. We see Chiuri using denim upon younger models to tell a tale of that same demographic from another time, where women were empowered out of necessity, denim and workwear once again a tool of Chiuri to show womenswear in a more utility-like light bring her conviction to the runway to “speak to the millennials, and understand this generation” (Chiuri, Maria, ).

This follow-up to her previous collection lacks the bold graphic of “we should all be feminist” but through the medium of denim the message is there, an underlying commitment

making Dior realistic streetwear for the young ( MOWER, SARAH, 2017).

Model Sasha Pivovarova, dressed striped and sequined from the 2018 ready-to-wear campaign. She’s a house favorite in Dior, having opened the 2017 September collection wearing Chiuris signature graphic Tee “why have there been no great women artists?”. Capturing this campaign Patrick Demarchelier, the famed fashion photographer who creates a mesmerizingly emotive portrait (as usual) as the french brand playful 60’s inspired campaign (FASHIONISTA, 2018).

If you’re starting to pick the elements here, you’ll see this undoubted reference to the dawn of the house in these two collections, dressed in black and white stripes, french burets across outfits, and ww2esc denim. Chiuri is almost quoting a time in french history that led to the birth of the new look and the house of Dior itself. Denim is a medium that will always stand as a reference to historical triumph, resilience, and self-empowerment.

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2021

Cruise

Collection

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Per aspera ad astra’

‘

When the globe hit the big red button on fashion shows, Dior saw Chiuri rise to the challenge and lay down the runway. Taking the 2021 resort season to a new destination, off the beaten tracks of vacation-ready runways of colorful Marrakesh, cuber, and other historically famed cities.

Cruise 2021, ventures deep into Italy’s southern boot, Features Chiuri’s Puglia fairy-tale brought to you from the beauty of the luminaries. The wildflowers of the reign along with flamboyant motifs all celebrate the traditional arts of Puglia, the homeland of Chiuris’ father, an ode to nature along the landscape of southern Italy.

‘The setting was the Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, a small town in Puglia, in the heel of Italy’s boot.

Southern Italy was a month later to reopen than the northern part of the country, and Lecce was a difficult place to get to even in the Before Times.‘ From balconies to the front row, it’s the locals who gather to watch, which is fitting as local artisans were key in the flares and details of almost every aspect in this collection. Chiuri’s dresses were embellished by Marilena Sparacsi in a rare tombolo embroidery, a 15th-century style of lace popularized in Southern Italy (CARREON, JUSTINE, 2020). Le Constantine’s foundation wove the pieces seen throughout the show, a foundation established by sisters Giulia and Lucia Starace to preserve their traditional form of textile design. Inspirations from the Puglia region run deep throughout the collection and the city’s history with bohemia, agriculture, arts, and crafts is literally weaved into bodices, skirts, and sheer overlays. Even The orchestra and dance company were local, too, collaborating to create a show by Puglia for Puglia, the rest of the viewing world just along for the ride. (PHELPS, NICOLE, 2020) Chiuri’s approach to fashion ever appeared in the styling and garments. We see pinafore dresses, blanket-fringe skirts, and hand-knit sweaters, kerchiefs illustrating the outdoor

fashion of the region and a nod to the rising trends, carried with flat boots on their feet ( PHELPS, NICOLE, 2020) it’s clear that “Fashion has to be comfortable” Chiuri stating “—that’s part of my DNA,” Chiuri’s persona ever shines through her collection, Never has she delivered without a clear drive or mission. This collection’s message is crystal clear.

“It’s important for the local people to understand the value of their tradition,” she said. “Probably the most important thing that I understood during these four years at Dior—in Paris, they’re so proud about their tradition; fashion is part of their cultural heritage. But we don’t have the same attitude in Italy. Probably it’s because these traditions are made by women at home, so there’s this idea that it’s domestic work. They don’t think it’s creative work. They don’t give it the same value. They don’t celebrate it. With this show, I hope to give a different point of view to the local people about that. It’s not only a dialogue with our audience outside, but it’s really a dialogue with the territory.”

No stranger to political statements, the city’s intimate relationship with the luminaire, a traditional festival of light, becomes a medium for a message. “We rise by lifting others, Be a builder The narrative radiates from Puglia, the locals the story here in Dior’s latest collection, Chiuris continued signature to place the spotlight on regional crafts and people.

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T H E DIOR LOOK

Blue-denim-jeans

$1,850.00

Sports-jacket

$2,700.00

Ballerina-Flat

$1,490.00

Sheer-Blouse

$2,800.00

Dior-Polytechnique-Belt

$1,100.00

Parisian-Beret

$1,350.00

Necklace

$1,550.00

Necklace

$1,750.00

Necklace

$2,550.00

Ring

$630.00

Ring

$790.00

Ring

$690.00

Ring

$1,090.00

$ 2 0 , 3 4 0 . 0 0 xvi

Paris

The city that gave rise to so many fashion houses and so much of what we understand of fashion today. It’s and elegant and timeless style you’ll find throughout the city. But as we see in Paris’ history of struggle producing mighty fashion labels we see a now hungry Paris, after a year of serial lockdown, Paris seemed on the verge of exploding (Trebay, Guy , 2021) . The climate had swiftly adopted a need for togetherness, and an atmosphere almost forgotten through the lock down.

Corner bars sit packed as parisians return to the streets shedding fear and anxiety for laughter and dancing .

You’ll see the fashion of Paris shift into a form of nights out apparel and wears suited for long lasting laughter and dance. This dior look captures that timeless french elegance whilst illustrating this new hunger for freedom and fun. It’s comfortable and suited for those colder parisian nights, featuring decorative gold accessories and the proud silhouette of a parisian beret.

Melbourn

Far, far, far south, far from the rest of the world Melbourne sits and watches. We’re a relaxed bunch and often our fashion shows it but we’re expressive, we saw an eclectic mix of homegrown womenswear labels over march’s fashion festival opened with many big name international fashion house - Balenciaga, Isabel Marant and Saint Laurent (BROADSHEET, 2021).

Melbourne sits in a precision to intake local labels, arts and ideas as well as inviting worldly fashions into our city. We sit comfortably in our fashion, and yet we do not hide our expressions and impressions of the world.

Hence this dior look, with its relaxed fit and comfortable shirt and skirt combo would not go amiss in any of the suburbs here. High balck boots of course solidifying one of the huge trends here, whilst not dominating the earthy light tones of the outfit.

NewYork

The New York fashion scene is immense, come fashion week people it’s entirely clear the role the industry plays in the city’s culture. It’s a fastpass urban society, with diverse make-up, so you can imagine the style to be bold, impactful and street savvy.

Such a loud and proud scene, But Covid is the reoccurring big bad boogie man these days and six months into the pandemic Fashion was tip-toeing through the season. In fact No more fashion shows were set for New York during the pandemic, But that is just not in the nature of NYC. a guerrilla show on a running path in lower manhattan, models in masks and distanced guests the fashion scene proves to show it’s bold attitude. (YOTKA, STEFF , 2021) This look from Dior shows that rebellious streak, And elegant pattern to create uniform across this street, chic, look

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Z ENDAYA

A new face for Zendaya, a Household name

researched.

stylist

personal wardrobe filled with

for many who grew up watching

and image architect Law Roach

block colors with quite classy

her antics on Disney channel’s

has collaborated with Zendaya

styling through blazers and

``Shake it up”, and have

to create an abundance of

elegant dresses. But as on display

followed her career from 2010

unavoidable

moments

in the images here, Zendaya

to now, in her leading role in

The two have paid tribute to

is not shy to express meaning

HBO’S Euphoria (ASHTOn,

historical styles, paid homage

and mission in her styling when

WILL, 2021). Giving nothing

to pop culture and icons. The

needed. Much like Chiuris’s

but

performance

BET awards saw Zenday in

approach to her work, we see

throughout her television career

a vintage dress culled from

Zendaya adorn garments that

she’s become a fan favorite

Law’s extensive archives, the

express past her usual style,

even outside the realm of Tv.

once was dawned by Beyonce

whether it referencing a point

Countless times Zendaya has

at the same awards show in

of pop culture or a reminder

rocked

world,

2003 (Gilcrease, Grayson,2021)

of historical moments. Her

hitting the red carpet in looks

The celebrity will bring her own

style adapted to the message,

that are nothing if not well-

mark to Dior, we see Zendaya’s

an

her

best

the

fashion

Longtime

D ior

style

ever-evolving

style.

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DIOR Y2k

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DIOR

Vermilion

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ermilion

BOLD, BRIGHT WITH ALL HALLMARKS OF POWER. INSPIRED BY THE INFLUENTIAL FIGURES OF OLD, WOMEN RULED, CONQUERED, AND ROSE ABOVE THEIR SURROUNDINGS. THE STRIKING SILHOUETTE OUTLINES THE SHEER POWER OF THESE INDIVIDUALS’ FEROCITY.

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DIOR

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South of Paris...

Saint-Tropez xxxi

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