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BEYOND DIOR WHERE THE YOUTH MEETS THE DIOR FASHION HOUSE
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DIOR’S HEART 4 CHRISTIAN DIOR MARIA GRAZIA CHUIRI
AMASSODOR 10 FKA TWIGS
RUNWAY 14 DIOR RESORT 2022 SPORTSWEAR THEME ANCIENT GREECE AND ROME THEME COMFORT, EASE, PRACTIICTALLY THEME
DIOR AND DENIM 24
BEYOND DIOR ISSUE 1
DIOR AND DENIM DENIM MASHUP
BEYOND DIOR FASHION CAMPAGIAN 26 DIOR AT HOME DIOR IN THE FUTURE
MARKET ANYALYSIS 38 COST ANYALYSIS MARKETING COLLATERAL
SHOP THE LAUNCH 44 PHONE CASES TOTE BAGS
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CONTENTS
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CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr CHRISTIANDIOr 7
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CHRISTIAN DIOr Christian Dior exploded onto the Paris
and the return of luxury. “Your Dresses
fashion scene with designs that flew
have such a new look”- Carmel snow
in the face of wartime restrictions and
(Editor of US Bazar). The ‘New look’
reintroduced a femininity and focus on
was quite controversial when it start-
luxury to womens fashion. Christian
ed coming out, as the higher class
Dior was the most successful fashion
could only afford the new look and the
Designer in the world and Dior is one
classes were once again separated by
of most successful high end stores to
their clothing after the great depres-
this date. Christian was born in 1905,
sion had brought them all together
In Normandy, France. He grew up here
and females were finally beginning to
and then studied political science, and
be accepted into the work life. Yves
then served in the military. His design
Saint Laurent was hired by Dior when
career started in 1095 when he re-
he was only 18 years old. Before Dior’s
turned to paris. He started his design
death he told Laurent’s family that he
career selling sketches, then was hired
would be the next person after him-
by Robert Piguet in 1938 and then Luc-
self to run Dior. Shortly after Dior Died
ien Lelong in 1941 when he returned
from a heart attack when he was only
from war again. In 1946 he opened
55 years old, and Laurent then took
his own house and that’s where the
over the brand. As the years went by
magic began. “The new look (1947)”
designer such as Marc Bohan (in 1960)
was a collection of gowns which were
, Milan’s Gianfranco Ferré (in 1989),
characterized by cinched waists, full
John Galliano (in 1996), Bill Gaten (In
skirts and an extravagant use of fab-
2011), Raf Simons (in 2013), the first
ric that contrasted sharply with the
women and the current designer Ma-
sober styles of the ration era. It was
ria Grazia Chiuri (In 2016).
intended as a celebration of femininity
“I wanted to be considered a good craftsman. I wanted my dresses to be constructed like buildings, molded to the curves of the female form, stylizing its shape”
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MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI Maria grazia chiriui is Dior’s current director since
she became the first female director for dior. Chiuri’s
2016 and first female artistic director. Prior to her
debut collection for Dior drew inspiration from the
role at dior, Chiuri spent 17 years at valentino, in-
Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, whose
cluding 8 years at the brands creative leaders with
TEDx Talk about feminism had a major theme in the
collaborator pierpaolo piccioli. The duo successfully
collection. When Chiuri was young, she thought be-
refined valentino brand codes and grew the business
ing a feminist meant you didn’t want to wear lipstick
to reach 1 billion in revenue in 2015. She studied at
or high heels. In tribute to Archie’s ideas, Churui cre-
istituto europeo di design in rome and then went on
ated an iconic top which is now all over the media
to work at fendi as a designer in 1989. In 1999 she
with a title of one of her talks “We should all be fem-
joined valentino as an accessory designer and then
inists”. Churi explored the girlboss feminism in this
in 2008 she became co creative director of valentino.
collection and has since continued with this theme
In 2016, after raf simons stepped down from dior she
and viewpoint. Aswell as the constant feminist the-
was announced as his creative director. Under Chiu-
mees in her collection she hires female photogra-
ri’s direction, dior brought back some of their brand
phers, designers and assistants because she says,
staples such as the Iconic Saddle bag dior brought
“fashion campaigns are mostly done by male pho-
back its saddle bag as well as an influencer and so-
tographers—and I think it’s completely different, the
cial media marketing strategy with famous faces such
way that women look at other women. If Dior has
as Bella Hadid and comila coelho wearing the bag.
to speak about femininity, I want to hire women to
Chiuri has now brought themes of feminism to her
look at femininity. It’s also very important to me to
shows after the world started discussing that she was
work with women who have different backgrounds
a symbol of females growing in the industry when
and aesthetic references.” (Elle Interview 2020)
“My
work
is
rooted
in
pas-
sion, study and a desire to be on the frontline, with my own interpretation and also my own personal way of living the extraordinary adventure of being a woman” 10
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DIOR
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FKA TWIGS
“Being beautiful isn't everything... Sometimes it's interesting to show how you feel on the inside on the outside, just through expressing yourself.” Fka Twigs (born Thliah Debreet Barnett), is
is." (Dazed interview 2020). She became a
one of most powerful, confident and ener-
dancer when she moved to london at 17, she
getic musicians today. She has built up such a
danced in music videos for well known artists
strong reputation in such a short music scene.
such as Ed Sheeran, Jessie J and kylie Mi-
Her music is unique and different, like noth-
nogue. She then renamed her name to FKA
ing we have seen before. She is a strong pow-
twigs and started her music career. Fka Twigs
erful female creator and that's why I believe
has always been an artist that defies conven-
she would be a powerful Dior Ambassador.
tion. Her music is independence, femininity
She grew up in a English countryside known
and touches on issues such as sexual objec-
as Cheltenham, since she was born she has
tification and submissiveness. Maria Grazia
been seen as “out of the box” from her fa-
Churir is always wanting to push out of the
cial features to her personal style and pas-
conventional shows and showcase creative
sions. "Half of my life I've had people staring
women and hire female workers as well as be-
at me because they think I'm funny-looking
ing a very open feminst. I think this would be
and ugly. The other half of my life I've had
a very powerful ambassador as it stands for
people staring at me because they think I'm
everything dior encourages with the current
fascinating. Everything neutralizes. It's more
Creative director Chuiri.
of a statement on society and how weird it
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“I ’m a very free woman, and maybe freedom is erotic in that way. Maybe it’s conceived of as something dangerous, and dangerous - in that creative and wild way - is sensuous and erotic. For me it’s more about making what I feel, but there’s always a reason, a level of integrity and classical expression in what I do” 15
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DIOR RESORT 2022 17
“SPORT IS MOVEMENT, SPORT IS FREEDOM” A major theme in Dior Resort 2022 is sportswear after drawing inspiration from the past year of lockdowns and Maria Grazia Chuiri re- arranging her furniture to make room to exercise a part of her freedom and movement. “Sport is movement, sport is freedom. During lockdown, you would walk around your building just to get a sense of moving your body. That became our idea of freedom” (Vogue interview 2022). She wanted to create a sportswear theme throughout the collection so the buyers and the audience can feel as though they can wear the dresses and designs in a dressed down way as well as an evening/ event outfit. Athletic materials such as nylon are used throughout the collection and used in garments which are in the middle of sportswear and everyday life. The show was taken over with chunky white trainers,cinching drawstrings, techy fabrics , workout dressing gowns, hoodies and retro gym bags. Chirui even deconstructed/ reconstructed the Christian Dior Iconic Bar jacket by removing ite liner and sporting its construction. She drew the technical properties of the sporty genre with the couture-informed craftsmanship normally viewed as its polar opposite and put them together for this collection. This also taps into the trends of sportswear and leisure wear being one of the most pervasive trends of the year. 18
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maria grazia churi home makes refrence in her 2022 resort collection 2022 One of the biggest references Maria Grazia Chuiru used for the Resort 2022 collection was Ancient Greece and Rome. “I come from Roma, don’t forget. Around me, the reference of Greece is everywhere, on every statue. It’s my background,” she said. (Vogue 2021). Inspired by her own history and the history of where she was raised she created a collection which was full of remarks and symbolic symbols of the era and culture. The primary colour in the collection was white, which symbolises the classic statues and also inspired Churiu with the silhouettes and designs of the clothing. The era of fashion and their traditional outfits such as the Peplos and Hellenic dresses as well as the design features of movement, simplicity of form and flow was heavily remarked upon in this collection. “Everybody thinks of Greece and Italy in terms of holidays… But our research was really big in terms of the history of Greece. We worked to show how important this time was, not least for the 20th century. (Vogue 2021) Mirui has used the same design techniques of draping, materials and pleats which has been inspired by peplos and chitons. Peplos and Chitons were garments worn by the Ancient Greece women, it consisted of a large rectangular piece of material folded vertically and hung from the shoulders, with a broad overfold.
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As Well as the garments Chuiri has referenced the jewellery worn by ancient greek women such as the gold belts used to cinch the waist on the gowns in this collection and the hair oranmation. “Maria Grazia also collaborated with a range of Greek artisans: the tailor Aristeidis Tzonevraki created a bespoke embroidered Book Tote and bar jacket; the Soufli-based factory Silk Line Hellenised Dior’s signature houndstooth in silk leggings and shorts; Atelier Tsalavoutas created traditional caps worn by Hydriot fisherman; and Athenian artist Christiana soulou illustrated seven mythological figures, which appeared on a silky fil coupé jacquard bias-cut gown worn with sneakers. This was a tribute to Greece, ancient and modern; mythical and real.”
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In the 2022 Dior Resort collection Maria Chuiri Grazia has used themes of comfort, ease and practicality. After nearly two years of lockdowns and restrictions across the world, comfortable and practical designs are at the forefront of the fashion industry. “Part of a new generational spirit is a lack of patience with complicated fashions. Instead, young people imbue conventional dress codes with an expectation for comfort and ease. That territory is a walk in the park for Chiuri—or make that a sprint! Values of functionality, movement, and comfort are ingrained in her cultural inheritance and her practice at Dior.” (Vogue 2022) A Lot of the collection included flowing silhouettes with not much structure paired with socks and sneakers. The fit in some of the collection is up to the buyer with the use of draw string around the waist
COMFORT, EASE AND PRACTICALITY IN DESIGNS INFLUENCED BY THE RESTRICITONS AROUND THE WORLD DUE TO COVID19
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DIOR AND DENIM Denim was created firstly for practical denim designs such as jeans, Denim Jackworkers such as denim overalls and boil- ets, Boiler Suits, Denim Skirts and Shorts. er suits. Jeans were standard practice for
Maria Grazia Churir has also incorporated
workers such as miners, war workers and
denim into more luxury pieces with den-
farmers. By the late 70’s, early 80s high im either drawn into the patterns or made end brands were starting to incorporate
completely with the fabric such as Hats,
jeans into their designs. In 1976 Calvin
Bags, Jewellery and more unconventional
Klein showed blue jeans on the runway-
denim clothing. Maria Grazia Churiir has
the first one to do so. By the 1990s Dior, even recently updated the iconic Saddle Versace and Dolce and Gabannena had bag crafted in denim and fully embroialso entered the jean market. Over the
dered and embellished with dior flow-
decades the types and styles of jeans and er motifs. The Jadore bracelet has also how denim is incorporated into brands been another popular item which Churiri become stratified among groups and
revamped using denim as the material,
subgroups: hip hop styles- low oversized,
this has now become an social media icon
sludge jeans, intellectuals and hipsters
and is worn by many influencers and ce-
turned to black denim, pop stars turned
lebrities. Churir has explored using Denim
to favoured whiskered styles.
in clothing such as pleated denim skirts,
Dior has
heavily used denim in nearly every collec- denim bucket hats, denim belts and taition over the last couple of years. Dior has
lored denim jackets which were all shown
Ready to wear denim collections current-
in Dior Fall 2019 Ready to Wear show.
ly online and in store in more traditional “Over the decades the types and styles of jeans and how denim is incorporated into brands become stratified among groups and subgroups”
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BEYOND DIOR FASHION Photographed And Creative direction by Mila Perrin
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LOS ANGE MARKET ANALYSIS Los Angeles is another niche area which has a
Celebrity base at LA i thought it would be the
leading revenue for Dior but also one of the
best location to hold the pop up. I also designed
leading marketing and social media presence my collateral pieces for the pop up based on of the brand. Below are three looks from the
this location. The bag for the everyday use of
Dior Spring 2020, these looks are appropriate LA residents, perfect for a beach bag and erfor LA because of the climate and weather. In
rands and the phone cases for their social me-
LA the main purchases are hats, Jewellery, Bags dia/ technology use in LA. As it is the leading and warmer climate clothing such as tops, skirts, social media presence for dior I thought this was dresses and swimwear. I chose the location for the perfect reason to hold the pop up here as it my pop up as my top resonated with the trends
would also be shared on platforms and will allow
and best sellers of dior at the Los Angeles Mar-
more people to see the designs and pop up,
ket. As for the warmer climate and influencer/
without actually being there.
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ELES Here is the broken down full cost of look two (All prices in AUD) from top to bottom: Dior Denim Cap- $1300 Dior Pinstripe blouse- $2300 30 Montaigne Bag- $5500 Dior Garden Overalls- $5000 Dior Camp Ankle Boot- $1900
DIOR SPRING/SUMMER 2020
Total Cost= $16600
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POP UP GIFTS
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