A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE JACK BARTHOLOMEUSZ
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
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Identity A Uniform Perspective aims to be a meditation on the relationship between a person, the clothes that they wear, and the way they are perceived by the world around them. This stems from the concept of ‘Selffashioning’ , found in renaissance Italy as well as the present day, and is defined as the “process of constructing one’s identity and public persona according to a set of socially acceptable standards” (Mambrol 2016). Ideally through this idea, the uniform is created as a way for one to exist according to their own individual identity, lifestyle and ethos. However, many factors impede this liberation of dress. The collection is comprised of classic menswear tailoring and progresses through the anecdote of an unnamed protagonist as they work to recontextualise themselves and the clothing they wear. The order of the looks represents the chronological flow of a story arc beginning with the first look titled ‘Exposition’, which is styled with an oversized ruff scarf with the ruff being “prominently associated with Queen Elizabeth I” (Brown ND) before further spreading around Europe during the renaissance period. This represents the
constriction felt by our protagonist when subjected to the strict social and societal expectations of a man’s uniform. The second look is comprised of a drped jacket, darted shirt and pants that shows the rising action in the story with the ideas held by the first look begining to break down. The third look titled ‘Conflict’ features the cowl draped coat that reflects the protagonist’s rejection of his situation in the first look. the cowls along with the slashed pants aim to show the formal nature of the pieces melting away in order to form something new. The fourth look is the falling action and shows the reconstruction of a jacket from the ashes of look 3’s coat. Look 4 shows the breaking down of the coat as it reforms into a sort of blazer in preperation for the final look. Ending with the look titled ‘Resolution’ that consists of a double breasted blazer that fuses withe physical form suggesting a complete and utter dismissal of formal wear in a man’s uniform is not necessary for it to be modernised. Instead, a personalisation of the suit in order to fit with one’s lifestyle and identity proves to a way forward.
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
Exposition Body 1
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Body 1
angled pockets
pleated double vent
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Charcoal Pinstripe Wool Flannel 100% Wool
Black Organza 100% Silk Organza
Black Striped Lining 54% Viscose, 35% Cotton, 11% Acetate
White Cotton 100% White Cotton Poplin
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
Rise
Body 2
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Body 2
Contrast panelling
Draped open back details
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Charcoal houndstooth check 100% Wool
Black charcoal Wool 100% Wool
White Cotton 100% White Cotton Poplin
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
Conflict
Body 3
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Body 3
cowl draped body
hook and eye sleeve inseam
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Charcoal Pinstripe Wool Flannel 100% Wool
White Organza 100% Silk Organza
Black Striped Lining 54% Viscose, 35% Cotton, 11% Acetate
White Cotton 100% White Cotton Poplin
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
Fall
Body 4
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Body 4
front cut out with exposed canvas
additional lapel at back with exposed canvas
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B/W Herringbone 80% Wool 20% Nylon
Filippo/A 70% Wool 28% polyester 2% Elastane
FS 2004 100% Wool
White Cotton 100% White Cotton Poplin
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
ResoluBody 5 tion
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Body 5
layered front
belted fringed back
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Charcoal Pinstripe Wool Flannel 100% Wool
Black Pinstripe Wool 100% Wool
Black Striped Lining 54% Viscose, 35% Cotton, 11% Acetate
White Cotton 100% White Cotton Poplin
JACK BARTHOLOMEUSZ
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Jack is a Melbourne based Fashion Designer who has an avid love for menswear tailoring and quality craftsmanship.
“
A
Second
Skin
”
Who he is as a designer can be described as his desire to use fashion as a vehicle to connect with people and provide value both through the tactility of the clothing, how the garment converses and interacts with the body; and also the value gained through the discourse that the clothing act as a catalyst for. At the heart of it, Jack’s mission is to create a second skin, not just one that conforms to the body, but bolsters it through hardships while allowing the softness and space needed in times of uncertainty and reflection.
A UNIFORM PERSPECTIVE
References Borelli-Persson, L 2021, Claudia Schiffer on Curating a Show of 1990s Photos—And What the Supermodel Life Was Really Like, Viewed 27 August 2023, Vogue, https://www.vogue. com/article/supermodel-claudia-schiffer-on-curating-captivate-an-exhibition-of-1990s-fashion-photography Brown, J ND, Ruff Collars: The Fashion Statement of Elizabethan England, viewed 6 June 2023, History Defined, https:// www.historydefined.net/ruff-collars/ Gehrlein, W 1987, A comparative analysis of measures of social homogeneity, Viewed 18 August 2023, Springer, https:// link.springer.com/article/10.1007/bf00134521#:~:text=Abstract,that%20a%20Condorcet%20winner%20exists. Mambrol, N 2016, The Concept of Self-Fashioning by Stephen Greenblatt, viewed 2 June 2023, Literariness, https://literariness.org/2016/10/18/the-concept-of-self-fashioning-by-stephen-greenblatt/
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Acknowledgements Garment Construction, fashion design and creative direction Jack Bartholomeusz (@jackbartholomeusz) Photography Bella Loke (@bellaloke) Sari Kane (@sari.kanefolio) Naomi Rahim (@auroradesign) Jenny Chhim (@jennychhim) Melissa Cowan (@melissacowanphotography) Models Jude (@7udas__) Xinglai (@xincelnotxinglainotxincel) Marvin (@pilimarvinliangzai) Callaghan (@saint6th)