Issuu

Toile Encadree

DIOR

Capsule Collection SS 21/22

Represented by

Priyanka Chopra Jonas

FRAME

NO.8

Editor in chief Dimple Shah

DIOR

In this Issue

01 Christian Dior

02 Maria Grazia Chiuri

03 Global Collaboration

04 Silhouette

05 Cannage

06 Denim & Dior

07 Global Market

08 Brand Ambassador

09 Super Future

10 Illustrations

11 Hero Images

12 Collateral

CHRISTIAN DIOR

The House Of

Christian Dior Heritage

Born in the town of Granville, Normandy

1905, Christian Dior was the son of a rich fertiliser manufacturer. He was artistically inclined from day one and started his journey by selling his sketches on the streets for pocket money. Later he took over a small art gallery bought by his father. After unfortunate mishaps in the family and business he had to close the gallery (Sowray 2012). After working with few fashion designers Christian Dior pulled threads to his debut Parisian couture house in 1946 on avenue Montaigne (Burney 2018) The house is known as Dior and it showcased its first collection in 1947 which presented 90 different looks named “Corolle” and “Huit”. Magazine editor Carmel Snow renamed the line to “New Look”(Sowray 2012). The collection was very feminine with a cinched waist and full ankle length skirts (Burney 2018). The key motifs of the house consist of cannage from his debut show, honey bee, astrological patterns with numbers and his interest in artistic collaborations (Sowray 2012). After his sudden death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent who was already assisting Christian Dior took over the artistic edge of the house. He was then replaced by Marc Bohan who defined a new silhouette for Dior, the Slim Look. Then from 1989 to 1997, Gianfranco Ferre was the stylistic director for the brand. Bernard Arnault, who purchased the house in 1984 appointed John Galliano as the creative director in 1997. Then in 2011 Bill Gayten headed up for a year and Raf simons had taken over as artistic director. In 2016, the first woman to the post was introduced. Maria Grazia Chiuri revived the label with an extreme modern approach (Burney 2018).

MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI The Artistic Director.

We Should

All

Maria Grazia Chiuri First female artistic director for the The house of Christian Dior.

aria Grazia Chiuri is an Italian born designer from

She believes in looking back to look forward and so

Rome. She is the first woman who was appointed to

till date she has successfully managed to re-code

oversee the creative destiny of Dior. She is extremely

the silhouette of ‘The New Look’ differently

innovative and brings authenticity to her work. She is

collection. She has kept the idea of not just designing

heavily inspired by surrealism and female artists all over

clothes for women but upholstering them by Coco

the world (Roche 2020). A complete feminist who was

Chanel, very alive. The use of the Oblique pattern used

asked to not study fashion by her parents as it was a

majorly on bags

in every

is another motif from the archives.

domestic job. She rebelled against them by wearing jeans when her parents wanted her to dress feminine. This was

She not only supports feminism but collaborates

her way to show independence in that era (Okeowo 2020).

with female artisans all over the world. This makes her more than a designer. She has also collaborated

After completing fashion studies she started her career at a

with Indian embroiderers at Chanakya international

small shoe company and worked her way through to Fendi

garment house in Mumbai. Use of West African wax

and Valentino for the next 3 decades. She believed clothes

prints in the cruise 2020 collection in Marrakech is

had a deeper meaning than aesthetic (Okeowo 2020).

another example of sourcing globally (Okeowo 2020).

GLOBAL COLLABORATION Theme.

Global Collaboration

The show introduced a collection about luxury, globalism and culture (Salessy 2019). Toile de Jouy was the prominent fabric featured in the collection. A toile that was designed and produced as a wax print in the Ivory Coast city of Abidjan by a atelier named Uniwax. Authentic African wax prints on cotton are a real big deal, they are double faced, intricate, labour intensive, narrative and intentionally imperfect. Maria Grazia Chiuri took motifs from past seasons to the artisans and asked them to design their version. This resulted in a beautiful palette of ochre, navy, emerald, garnet and a combination of navy and cream with massive lions, winged mythological creatures, glowering birds, and references to the numbers and words associated with the tarot. Dior made a global statement by collaborating with African textile to authentic wax prints and embodied luxury at the highest level (Singer 2019).

SILHOUETTE Theme.

Silhouette 113 Silhouettes designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri were showcased in the Cruise 2020 Collection. The silhouettes were highly inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent designs from the 1950’s. She turned the cotton toiles into suits, jumpsuits, ball gowns, flared pants and capacious jackets. The New look was reinterpreted by British designer Grace Wales Bonner and African American designer Mickalene Thomas (Salessy 2019). The bar jacket had raffia, embroidery and couture detailing and spoke the language of culture exchange. The shapes were largely Dior’s boyish outer wear with girlish frocks, a combination of curved jackets to cool oversize shirts (Singer 2019).

CANNAGE Theme

annage

Caning, an old fashion technique of weaving on a frame using rattan cane, first appeared on the seats and backs of chairs in the mid 18th Century.

Christian Dior had the chair in his debut show and was giving his fashion house a signature motif that would inspire it to this 4day. The chair ’s old fashion canning technique eventually got adapted as the pattern for the brand’s “Eau Fraîche” per fume in 1953 (Mugrabi 2020). In the years that followed, the pattern iterated in the designs of clothing , accessories and jewelr y. The pattern has been adapted in different ways by the following designers , for example replacing lines with tex t and creating patterns by collaborating with ar tists (Mugrabi 2020).

DENIM AND DIOR luxe

Denim and DIOR Denin and luxury can go hand in hand by using the hallmarks of denim in an aesthetic way and not in an practical way. This is a perfect example of recreating something that is already created. Dior for cruise 2020 collection has aesthetically achieved the luxe in denim by incorporating fabric treatments, visual and tactile textures. Fraying and fringing is seen in almost every silhouette. Fabric printing and couture detailing speaks in every design which makes denim luxe for Dior.

MARKET GLOBAL AND MARKET LOOK ANALYSIS Marrakech Analysis

So Global! Dior has conquered the gl!obal market. Hence France,

New York and Dubai are the top cities for Dior’s target market. The 3 Looks on the left are from the Fall and Spring/Summer 2021 collection. The Iconic house pattern, Toile de Jouy has a new take on the motif with reversed colours. The designs are crafted in navy blue technical taffeta jacquard. Enhanced by a contrasting band with the ‘CHRISTIAN DIOR’ creates a signature of the house. Even though the looks vary from one another they can still be worn by the same target market in different cities, depending on the season they are in or planning to holiday in. Even with the wide leg or relaxed cuts they all still have the cinched waist which prolongs the New Look. This makes the overall look feminine yet powerful. Use of bags, jewellery and headpieces frames the look with simplicity and luxury. Blue, the colour is now very significant to Dior as Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the quote in “The Little Dictionary of Fashion” that says “Among all the colors, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black. It has all the same qualities”- quoted by M Dior. This made her think that blue can erase all gender lines, the way children are separated by colour, boys wear blue and how this did not make any sense. Hence she recouped the shade of Blue (Friedman 2017).

Dior 2020

Cruise Collection. Look 20 -Garments and Accessories Long white blouse- $1650 Dior double belt- $1200 30 Montaigne earrings - $440 Dior posey ring - $470 Lady dior embroidery bag- $4900 Pants - $1650 Long cardigan $3900 Sandals- $1090 Necklace- $590 Headband - $490 -Make up Foundation - $52 Eyeliner - $35 Blush - $44 Brow - $30 Mascara - $30 Lips - $35 Powder - $40 Concealer - $40 Eye colour - $65 -Total - Approx $16,800 USD exc photographers, make up artists, model and stylists

P C J

PRIYANKA CHOPRA JONAS Brand Ambassador

riyanka

hopra

onas

Cruise 2020 campaign for dior is styled by artistic direction Naomi Zack. Her work has paid a tribute to diversity and savoir faire. The graphic power of the dior codes are the highlights of the campaign. Shot by photographer Brigitte Niedermair, a magnetic essence is created with refined and monochrome staging. Elements like camouflage motifs, wax and embroideries poetically merge with decor. The shots appear to be more like pieces of art. Worn by models Ruth Bell, Adesuwa Aighewi, and Ana Barbosa marks diversity and global collaboration. The target market is the youth without losing its heritage (Zagorodnia 2019). Looking at the campaign, actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas is a potential ambassador for campaign Denim for Dior. She is a global icon who is married to Nick Jonas and settled

in Los Angeles but revisits her tradition and culture from time to time (Yee 2021). Starting her career as a model From her event appearances to her daily instagram posts, she is somebody that only says luxury and power. She has delivered speeches on women empowerment and is an ode to femininity. Chopra definitely dominates the Indian market and is conquering western world. For social causes she is associated with UNICEF and has been an ambassador since 2016. She also held a number of campaigns and raised donations for India’s Covid relief (Yee 2021). Chopra has attended many events in Dior and chose the same for her wedding reception in collaboration with Indian designer, Sabyasachi. With 62 million instagram followers she is idealised by the youth and can be relatable to mature target audiences (Yee 2021).

ILLUSTRATION Final Design

Denim and luxury go hand in hand. Using the hallmarks of denim in an aesthetic way creates a look and feel of luxe. Toile Encadree is a campaign for a capsule collection made from denim for Dior. Toile Encadree means a framed canvas which is when a piece of art is complete. This piece is inspired by the Cruise 2020 collection. The collection has aesthetically achieved the luxe in denim by incorporating fabric treatments, visual and tactile textures. Fraying and fringing is seen in almost every silhouette. Fabric printing and handcrafted detailing seen in each design showcases denim in a luxury setting. The garment is made from 3 meters of fabric which can be wrapped/ worn in multiple ways like scarf/ poncho/ cardigan or headpiece. The main features of the garment are the different types of visual and tactile textures that create codes of dior like cannage and honey comb. The texture also creates graded patterns. There is an Indian style of fabric printing known as block printing where a carved wooden block is dipped in the dye and stamped on the fabric to create prints and is all done manually. This is the collaboration between Dior and Indian artisans in this campaign. The colour palette for the garment is tints of navy complemented with ochre. Burgundy and olive. Line and direction are the main elements used in the design with principles of gradation, contrast and scale.The texture itself is horizontal but then worn as a garment it creates vertical lines and gives direction to the viewer. Target audience is under 25 but as Dior keeps the heritage client in mind, the garment can be for a larger audience. The shoot for the campaign is in Mid to low key, again inspired by the cruise 2020 campaign, with a navy backdrop and white frames suspended from the ceiling. Camera angles are mainly front on for details and lower for wide angle shots. Priyanka Chopra Jonas is the ambassador chosen for this campaign. Final garment is styled with accessories like brace belt, pointed shoes, bright colour bag and sunglasses, that makes the overall look luxe and powerful. Dubai being one of the luxury holiday destinations is perfect as a pop up location for this campaign. Toile Encadree is a complete piece of art that is made from denim for Dior.

DIOR Toile Encadree

Atlantis Dubai

Dubai Mall - Popup Store

Dubai Mall Store

DIOR

FRAME

NO.8

SPRING/SUMMER 21/22 SEPTEMBER ISSUE