To begin a project, the soul foundation is planted upon a personal hidden emotion, which as one looks beyond themselves, can be seen to be felt by all. Through my previous collection ‘duality and dichotomy, feelings of suffocation resulting from the pressures of assumptions and archetypal expectations are replaced by encouragement, to accomplish a paradigm shift. To encourage people to be their own self not to fulfill an overall idea or expectation. Progressing through this concept, ‘The Unpercieved’ pushes the idea of conscious awareness in order to education, ect. Thus causing a loss of true self as society scrambles to fit in.
Photography by JENNIFER Kingsland Modelled by Aimee & Cinnamon Kingsland Directed and Edited by Aimee Kingsland
BODY ONE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
‘Chrysallis’
Beginning ‘The Unperceived’ is ‘Chrysallis” which is a four garment body which is styled with a puffer helmet that I created. This body plays on the idea of volume and restriction. The tightness of the scuba bodysuit contrasts against the volume of the puffer, off the shoulder jacket. Line is manipulated and contrasted as the straightness of the pleated pants are interupted by straps. The body is also layered with a fluffy vest which contrasts the otherwise smooth materials, adding more tactile interest to the body. Journey through ‘Chrysallis.’ Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY one IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Psychologically, our brains are wired to form an idea about a situation or person quickly and automatically. This perpetuates biases and expectations of others. Throughout my collection I focus on pushing more conscious awareness, to slow down and see the hidden complexities of the world. Drawing from my own personal experiences, I want to create a collection where you need to look a little harder to see the entirety of the pieces.
However, as much as these expectations pressure the world into simplicity, we were made unique, we were made complex, we were made extraordinary.
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY one IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Taking on a sport luxe aesthetic, this body merges high fashion and sport fabrications to create a futuristic composition which is breathable and comfortable. The body includes long pleated pants with two straps which gather in one leg. To add volume, I have added a puffer leg band with draw string ajustments to be adjustable to the wearers size. The raglan sleeve bodysuit has a circle cutout in the front and back emphasising the center of the body. The sleeves end with a thumb hole to elongate the arm. This creates an all consuming aesthetic.
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY one IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
tech sketches by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY one IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
‘No exaggerations’ BODY TWO IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
‘No Exaggerations’ plays on the inital concept of missing hidden complexities by creating a strong, large silhouette which becomes the focus and overshadows the complex detailing. The name ‘No Exaggerations’ is made to be contradicted by the actual garments to push the idea of not going into somthing with expectations. When you actually look at the body, the bodies proportions are exaggerated through the use of the puffer. The body merges sport luxe aesthetics with handcrafted detailing. This body is nongender specific but was constructed using a menswear base to create a loose boxy silhouette.
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by BIUNCA GUIFOYLE Modelled by OLY NG
Underneath the puffer jacket you then find tighter garments which increase in complexity. This can be seen in the original prints, finger knitted vest and quilted textile of the shorts. The puffer jacket is reversable with an original print on both sides. The collar is stuffed and th rest of the jacket is wadded. The jacket includes quilted extentions with matte black eyelet finishes. A stuff rope can be styled with the piece which can loop through the eyelets on both the jacket and shorts. The rope creates more depth to the garment as well as visual interest. The jacket also can be styled with a TPU overlay which adds a waterproof functionality to the design.
BODY TWO IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by BIUNCA GUIFOYLE Modelled by OLY NG
BODY TWO IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
ORIGINAL PRINTS by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by BIUNCA GUIFOYLE Modelled by OLY NG
Photography by BIUNCA GUIFOYLE Modelled by OLY NG
BODY TWO IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
tech sketches by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by BIUNCA GUIFOYLE Modelled by OLY NG
‘Light as freedom’ BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
‘Light as Freedom’ draws upon the idea of finding true self. The puffer is made to symbolise the build up of expectations; expectations which lead to the distortion of your true self. This body is a six body garment body with the puffer jacket as the hero piece. The jacket includes a detachable backpack with eyelet detailing.
Photography by AIMEE Kingsland Modelled by CiNNAMON Kingsland
‘The Unperceived’ is the manifestation of in depth contrasts which hide infinite dichotomies under common contrasts. The common and expected contrast of black and white is used to hide the deeper contrasts such as texture, shape, gradation, line and styles such as summer and winter. This invokes the need to take time with the collection to find the inner complexities much like human beings. The hidden complexities aim to create the emotion of missing out- to invoke the need to study and engage.
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Gouache painting on grey pastle paper by aimee kingsland
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Within this body I have used a mix of soft fabrics in order to create comfort for the wearer. The garments underneath the jacket range in warm grey tones to create cohesion.
B3
The shorts are asymmetrical in style with a three band elastic waistband with a false draw string with gun metal grey finishes. It also includes an inseam pocket on the front right side and a quilted patch pocket on the back. The fluffy fabrication has been quilted to add subtle line to contrast with the thick lines created by the fabric layering. The shorts help continue the layering style. The body also includes two tone leggings with a seam down the front. This continues the experimentation of line and direction through thick and thin line. A puffer vest is layered ontop of the t-shirt which includes a exposed zip up the center form. The vest includes my brand logo to create a distinct personal signature style. Finishing off the body are puffer leg warmers which taper out to the ground. They include draw string finishes to be adjustable to the height and size of the wearer.
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
‘Light as Freedom’ had the honor of being presented in Melbourne Fashion Week Student Runway 2021 as well as being a finalist for the student prize.
tech sketches by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by LIANA HARDY Modelled by dre
Photography by AIMEE Kingsland Modelled by CiNNAMON Kingsland
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by AIMEE Kingsland Modelled by CiNNAMON Kingsland
‘No complications’ ‘No complications’ moves into a more tight and asymmetrical silhouette. This is made to contrast the high volume of the previous looks. The eight piece body includes a body suit with an oval cut out in the front and rests off the shoulder. It goes to mid calf which is then covered by small puffer leg warmers which have a draw string finish to be adjustable in size. The body suit is made of printed scuba to add elasticity but also coverage. The thick material provides a sense of security to make the wearer feel more comfortable. Building up the layers, we find a low waisted skirt with cover stitching details.
The skirt is matched with a stretch one leg stocking made out of stretch fabric with cut outs. The two, almost black fabrications contrast against the light neutrals of the rest of the body to create more visual interest. This fabric manipulation is then continued in a wrap around top. To finish off, the body includes an off the shoulder puffer jacket. BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
‘No Complications’ plays on the idea of missing hidden complexities. For this body, the name suggests a simple design however, that idea is shattered when you take the time to look at each garment. Like ‘No exaggerations,’ the name ‘No Complications plays on the viewers expectations to show that you need to take the time to look instead of using what you think and expect to pass judgement. The use of numerous layers develops the complexity of the overall design as well as provides a wide marketing opportunity as each piece can target a different market.
In the image to the right, I have devoped a shoe overlay made of cotton and stuffing. The shoe overlay can be applied to any shoe type depending upon the wearer’s personality and preference. I have styled it with platform black boot heels which add support and structure to the shoe. It also has a draw string finish to be adjustable to the wearers shoe size. The continuous use of adjustable draw strings achieves an element of inclusivity to suit a wider market. BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
These detail shots provide a closer look on the stretch top and it’s relationship with the jacket and body suit. The front of the body suit includes a circluar cutout which emphasises the wearer’s midrift. This body is made to incorporate the natural form instead of just sitting on top. This is so the wearer is involved in the experience of the overall look. The strap of the puffer jacket is made to cross over the cutout to again, balance the idea of restriction and release.
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
The Puffer is a staple piece throughout the collection. Within this body, I have created linear silhouettes with wadding. The body is made to look built up and complex. It takes elements from the previous bodies and merges them together to create cohesion. The dark tones have been taken from Body two and the print and puffer have been taken from Body three. The Body suit draws upon Body one’s bodysuit. Within this body line has been manipulated by the use of thick and thick line to create both direction and contour the human body.
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY THREE IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
tech sketches by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
‘Sunset Expectations’ is set as the closer of the collection. This is based of the transition into more vibrant colour which contrasts against the majorly neutral colour scheme of the previous bodies. It is made to drape over the body- to give a sense of relaxation, comfortablility and luxury.
‘Sunset expectations’ BODY four IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
The idea behind the name ‘Sunset Expectations’ is to explore the idea of a grandios expectation. Through research on missing hidden complexities, I wanted to represent how expectations can skew reality. The preconceived notions lead to overlooking the truth which can then be applied to identity. If you expect one thing- the obvious or the stereotypical- the nuances of individual personality is missed.
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
B4 BODY four IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
This body includes two garments and is styled with a knitted head scalf. As the hero piece of the body, the jacket is the point of interest which therefore uses an original fabric print. The jacket can be worn with or without the puffer belt. The belt is secured with a piece of fabric with snap fastenings. The belt then is made to be styled looping through the large eyelets situated on the back of the jacket. The jacket has been quilted and then stuffed to create a voluminous and comfortable design. The jacket is sleeveless with an enlarged collar. The collar is inspired by a classical shirt collar which has been enlarged and wadded. The back of the collar then drops down which has been designed to add shape and interest to the back of the jacket. Underneath the jacket is a sheer bodysuit made of netting. This is made to contrast both the physical and visual weight of the jacket. The body suit includes an zip up the back which is hidden by the jacket and princess seam lines which continue down the center of the leg. This is made to elongate the body and play with direction. The body suit is finished with fingerless gloves and socks- creating an all encompassing design that hugs the wearer.
BODY four IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
tech sketches by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
Photography by Cinnamon Kingsland Modelled by Aimee Kingsland
BODY four IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
SUNSET EXPECTATIONS
For this collection I designed original fabric prints in order to add a personal and creative element to the designs. I have used a layering technique using my own previous photography from both personal interest and fashion campaigns. For this pattern, I used photography of Body one. ‘Like Mist’ overlays a photo of a beach in Queensland taken on a film camera with body one. This creates a misty mergance of the images and adds depth to the design. This is based off the idea of hidden complexity where you have to look closer to see all the depth of the designs.
The original print ‘Drifting away’ is seen in Body three, ‘Light as Freedom’, and Body four, ‘No Complications.’ The design was created using an image I took of the sand while in Queensland as well as photography of Body Two, ‘No Exaggerations.’ The overlay tool was used to merge the images and light shapes were added to add a geometric, contemporary aesthetic to the design. The blur tool was then used to soften the edges of the photography and shapes to contrast soft and harsh line.
The overlay technique creates a blurred effect thus, presenting the name of ‘Drifting away’ by adding movement and depth.
As this collection progresses, symmetry is deconstructed and volume dissipates- symbolising the unveiling of true self which is often hidden behind the obvious. This unveiling is furthered with the application of Butterfly motifs which symbolise progression, self growth and individuality. X-ray art styles were drawn on for print design to explore the layering of simplistic objects, to see what is underneath.
Like the previous original print designs, I have overlayed photography to create an almost abstract impressionist print. The print is made to be a placement design in a large scale. This conveys the idea of needing to take a closer look to see the full extent of the design. The butterfly motif was the focal point of the design to continue the theme of growth and symetry.
‘Butterfly’s eyes’ is inspired by illustration aesthetics and butterflies. The design was digitally drawn with a pencil tool to achieve the hand-drawn aesthetic. Inital development was a black and white colour scheme, however, to add more interest, I added more neutral tones used throughout the body.
This original print was made out of a collaged moodboard created from orginal and collected photography which was then merged together. I have used my own face to add a personal touch to the design. It merges illustrative processes and digital editing to create the expressive design. I have continued a neutral colour scheme with the pop of black on the face which draws attention, thus creating a focal point. The overall design was inspired by the merging of human forms and nature.
‘the cut away’ original textile design by aimee kingsland
This layered textile used throughout the collection plays on the idea of layering and wadding which is featured throughout the collection. The textile was made by layering other fabrics from the rest of the collection behind the fabric of the t-shirt. I then plain stitched in the butterfly shape. Then the t-shirt was cut away and the wadding wripped out to give a puffy look. Then scissors are used to cut small pieces out of the fabric to create the cutout effect.
Photography by aimee Kingsland Modelled by cinnamon Kingsland
TEXTILE
BODY TWO IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Photography by BIUNCA GUIFOYLE Modelled by OLY NG
For this textile development, I created a knitted Vest using a finger knitting techique. The vest was constructed of thin panels of finger knitting which was then weaved together. Chunky knit was used to create a heavy, thick design. The finger knitting created a looser knit and creates the lined pattern on the vest.
For Body two, ‘No exaggeration’ I developed a quilted textile which involved cutting out shapes in fabric then edge stitching them onto the shorts. This created a thin texture which focused on shape and line. The lines and shapes were inspired by the butterfly fabric pattern, ‘Butterfly Eyes’ to create continuality thoughout the collection. To add some depth, a deeper black fabric was integrated into the circle details of the shorts. The entire process was designed and completed by myself.
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BODY TWO IN ‘THE UNPERCEIVED’ COLLECTION A/W22
Pastle fashion illustration by aimee kingsland
Throughout the collection, masculinity and femininity are narrowed in on as the fashion industry is dominated by extremes. I want to build a bridge between the two to create beautiful functionality; a balance instead of a distinct, dominant form. The main influences behind this collection is Feng Chen Wang’s Fall 2021 collection and Heliot Emil’s Fall 2021 collection, through their application of contemporary and deconstructive aesthetics. The exaggerated silhouettes are influenced by Marc Jacobs Fall 2021 collection. The neutral colour scheme was built from Rainmaker Fall 2021’s application of colour. The exaggerated layering, volume and complexity of the collection come from my desire to create an experience for the wearer .
Trend references 1 Heloit Emil Fall 2021 2 Annakiki Fall 2021 3 Christopher Esber Fall 2021 4 Rainmaker Tokyo Fall 2021 5 Ambush Fall 2019 6 Marc Jacobs Fall 2021 7 The-Sirius Seoul Fall 2017 8 HAMCUS Fall 2019 9 Yeezy Fall 2020 10 Per Gotesson spring 2022 11 Rick Owens Spring 2022 menswear 12 Feng Chen Wang Fall 2021 13 Y/Project Spring 2022 14 Y/Project Spring 2022 15 Knwls Fall 2021 16 Mugler Spring 2021 17 Christopher Esber Fall 2021 18 Christopher Esber Fall 2021 19. Jil Sander Spring 2021 menswear 20. Egon Lab S/S 2021 21. A-Cold-Wall Fall 2021 Menswear 22. Egon Lab S/S 2021 23. Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2021 Menswear 24. Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2021 Menswear
25. Tom Ford Fall 2021 menswear 26. Marni Spring 2021 Menswear 27. Craig Green Spring 2021 Menswear 26. Egon Lab S/S 2021 27. Egon Lab S/S 2021 28. 6397 Fall 2021 29. Heron Preston Fall 2021 menswear 30. Dries Van Noten Fall 2021 menswear 31. Mistergentleman Tokyo Fall 2021 32. Heloit Emil Fall 2021 33. Rachel Comey Fall 2021 34. Sara Battaglia spring 2022 35. Nina Ricci Resort 2022 36 Rolf Ekroth spring 2022 37 Y/Project Spring 2022 38 Marc Jacobs Fall 2021 39. Egon Labs A/W 2021 40. Lacoste Fall 2021 41. Versace Fall 2021 42. Acne Studios Fall 2021 menswear 43. Moncler 2 1952 Spring 2021 menswear
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