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Where Venice n 48 September 2020

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VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

SEPTEMBER 2020

W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM

THE STRONG

AND FRAGILE

HEART OF THE CITY

5-13 SEPTEMBER • THE VENICE GLASS WEEK

VENICE UNROLLS ITS RED CARPET 2-12 September • Biennale Cinema 2020 THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR LUXURY SHOPPING, BEAUTY AND DINING

吃喝玩乐 尽在这里

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


DISCOVER

ENJOY

CITY GUIDE www.whereitalia.com

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY

www.where-venice.com

We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

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Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@proedimedia.com www.where-venice.com

The recent pandemic has severely affected one

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com

of the linchpins of the global economy – the

MANAGING EDITOR

Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS

tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli

we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for

ICONOGRAPHY

famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to

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centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely

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Katia Greto amministrazione@proedimedia.com

appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world.

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com

only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is

HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com

made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was

CUSTOMER SERVICES

settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in

a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth,

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com

the creation of Italy.

REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show

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you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by

you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for the Renaissance…

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Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance! The Publisher

>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com


[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in Town 11

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 2  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


SEE MAP PAGE 58 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10

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© CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11

pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  3


WHERE NOW | UNIQUE

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wonders

Venice’s major water artery, measuring − approximately 4km in length and between 30 and 70 metres in width, follows a natural channel that traces a reverse ‘S’ course that divides the city from the north-west to the south-east, connecting various landmarks of historic, artistic and touristic interest.

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The Grand Canal is lined with sumptuous villas and palaces that either belong, or belonged in the past, to noble Venetian families, and takes visitors on a trip through five centuries of history, from the 13th to the 18th centuries. It was originally a gateway to the Rialto market, and later became the focal point of the lagoon’s mercantile life. Nowadays, it’s a symbol of the city.

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The Grand Canal is best appreciated by boat, either on a private water taxi or on the line 1 vaporetto, which departs from San Marco Vallaresso. In order to get the best view, we recommend sitting outside at the rear of the boat (the tour lasts for approximately one hour). Midway on the Grand Canal, we find the iconic Rialto − Bridge, for centuries the only means of crossing the Grand Canal on foot. To enjoy a bird’s eye view of the bridge, we suggest that you head to the luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi and take an elevator up to its terrace (don’t let the queues discourage you). From here you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the Grand Canal and the roofs of the city. The view at sunset is particularly spectacular and the terrace is open until 7.45pm.

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PH © ZHUKOV OLEG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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TE RIN CAMPO ialto Bridge is one of the A ca N D R DEI GESUITI FO ND AM most famous and widely AM EN IN TA ZE N photographed landmarksFof CA OND LL . S .A E FO LA Venice. Not only the undisputedNDREA ND RG CAL A LE AM DE VOL icon of postcards and ‘selfies’, but EN TI I B OT TE CAL ER FO ND C A M P O D E L NO . CA E V SA RT O I also the oldest bridge in the city RI E N IE LL VE ED LE ERBE R EL CAMPO L (until 1854 it was the only means AS F O of crossing DE LA CARITA’ TU ND A CA AM the Grand Canal on foot). Located Ein LL N T the CORTE DEL E San Felice A BE REMER RL city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. picturesque Rialto neighbourhood, it is PaRIUheady whose C A L in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, R IO LE D LI EN TER EL V DI À BA O LT O S R A FR In 1250, its woodenBpiles were replaced by mix of shops, eateries and architecture, where vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit RAMO U TA DEL M R IO L CORTE DEL OR POZETO a mobile structure, a sort of drawbridge that A the days are marked by the cries of the vendors and vegetables. DE ORO CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA allowed larger craft to sail under it, and its of its famous, bustling market and by the Although a visit to this market means elbowing ro N ST CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO name was changed to the Rialto bridge, comings and goings of Venetians and tourists one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, Santa Sofia R azionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E San possibly due to its association with the nearby who are either in search the market nevertheless boasts two gems of Lazzaro E N O of a traditional ‘osteria’ erna Ca’ VA B ATA G I A RI VA SC D’Oro CORTE O dei Mendicant district of Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA CORTE NOVA A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, back to 1907 featuring looking to make a purchase from one of the a blaze of maritime Santi Apostoli the bridge collapsed and was damaged several CAMPIELLO innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that line its ‘calli’ and symbolic decorations, including a number WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL LE G A Bthat DELLA but CASON Cà d'Oro times. The daring scenically impact-making of esoteric elements and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. are mixed in with R IE LI new design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on theSS. Giovan S.Canciano Ospedale C A M P I E L L O Chiesa Evangelica N N CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN Ponte consisted of aS Asingle 22 meter stone FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND capitals M L EofEits colonnade. More attentive visitors Luterana ID S C UO W LE E LL arch span, supported by a broad rectangular The history of this iconic bridge dates back to will also notice a marble plaque embedded CA CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA deck carrying two arcades of shops and the year 1000 when was built as a pontoon in one of its red brick facades, which shows CAMPOitDELLA CAL LE Cassiano LAR N PESCARIA GA A N Z IA ‘botteghe’ fronting bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due regulations Gset . G A centuries ago for minimum A N Con three roadways. L L IN ADA S A S A L IZ Santa Maria RI to increased traffic it was replaced with a allowable sizes for lagoon fish.Basilica dei O DE CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli THE FAMOUS MARKET wooden IR BECARIE bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CAL OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO EL F I Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is della Moneta’ both CESARE due to the toll that people FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS Grisostomo ORN BATTISTI O CAL L E SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ divided into the Pescaria, where fish caughtC A S T E L L I However, Rialto also means shopping. While had to pay when crossing it and because the DELLA Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA CAMPO CA LL E strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when dell’Osp DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa ER BE CA CORTE SECONDA DE M crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L NS LO BA RB AR ON unusual shops that are imbued with the di Rialto IA DE LE I Casa di atmosphere of a bygone era. CAMPO AMPIELLO Marco Polo RIALTO These include antique shops, artisans’ DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO workshops, old book binding shops where dei Tedeschi NO VA CA C. D LLE ’Aponal TA DEL RA books are still bound according to timeEL F DEL C .M O NTE E A RT P IO GO MB GH IN E Ponte O NG RU OD honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling SA CAL . PA N G FO L E G LLE O di Rialto SALIZZ CORTE IA Z Z CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE O AN ME TREVISAN CAMPO NAL DEL NI NT AD original creationsPRESTRIN made from Murano glass SAN BORTOLOMIO LA A A DEL VOLTO TE PIO RA CAMPO NO X beads. On the other hand, those in search of SAN LIO Rialto CAMPIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO MARIA an amazingSANTA experience, should head to the SAL IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D EL G L IO DEI PRETI old post office which now houses the recently ALIA CA Z ZO CALLE LARGA SAN LOREN Fontego LLE LA SantadeiMaria C. LA opened Fondaco Tedeschi, a lavish, highRG RGA A CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO ZZ Palazzo CORTE SABION CAMPO IN endDELshopping center and a magnificent feat of I MONDO della Fava C. DEL CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA Grimani Rialto CORTE NUOVO CALIC Rava DE LA PASINA E MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) architecture that has been updated to brilliantly SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione RIA SAN O E CORTE D SAL EZ A BAN VAD CORTE M SC E LE the old with new. The building OR RUBBI DE boasts a TA balance S.Silvestro LE D LICINI O LE CAL CAMPIELLO Palazzo O AL Teatro T C QUERINI SA marvelous terrace visitors a 360-degree US STAMPALIAoffering CA Querini M LL E Carlo Goldoni San Salvador ED LL MA EM CA RZ view over Venice. CORTE DEL AR Stampalia EZ CORTE IA

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Venice’s lifestyle department store

tfondaco.com

Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi steps from the Rialto Bridge, Venezia

@tfondaco


WHERE NOW | UNIQUE

gondola

All about the

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8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.

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Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

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PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from


[ INSIDER TIPS]

Welcome back to Venice After a long lockdown, some of the most important museums, cultural hubs and shopping destinations in the city have finally re-opened their doors to their guests. Check out insider tips to help you plan your visit.

Basilica di San Marco

Not only the most famous picture postcard of the city, and the great heart of Venice, St. Mark’s Basilica is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions. The meeting with this unique city starts here.... www.basilicasanmarco.it Every day, 10am-6pm.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

OPEN FROM 17 JULY

TASTING The restaurant is set in a spectacular location with breathtaking views, serving both modern Venetian and Italian inspired dishes: it offers a refined, creative and gourmet cuisine from the passion of Chef Roberto dal Seno. www.kempinski.com

FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI

ALL IN ONE The lifestyle department store offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining. Spanning 7,000 square meters, the very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of luxury products. www.dfs.com

PH © DE FINA

PH © DE FINA

One of the most important museums of European and American art of the twentieth century in Italy, it is located in Peggy Guggenheim’s former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, on the Grand Canal. www.guggenheim-venice.it Wed-Mon, 10am-6pm.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

Palazzo Ducale

A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the Doge’s Palace is a landmark attraction and a repository of innumerable art treasures. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it can be visited via self-guided routes. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it Open daily 9am-6pm.

THE MERCHANT OF VENICE

Museo del Vetro, Murano

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order, from the archaeological section to important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. museovetro.visitmuve.it Thurs-Sun, 11am-5pm. 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

PASSION A brand related to the history of Venice, it emphasizes the ancestral role of the city in the worldwide perfumery tradition. It includes different product lines inspired by the traditions of the ancient Republic of Venice, by its highquality craftsmanship, and by its centuries-old trade with the East. www.themerchantofvenice.com


© OLGA GAVRILOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUT OF TOWN

Royal Gardens

Commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 as a green space lying adjacent to the Procuratie Nove, the Royal Gardens were recently restored and returned to the city in all their original splendour. www.venicegardensfoundation.org Tues-Fri 8.30am-7pm; Sat-Sun 8.30am-7.30pm.

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Gardaland An architectural gem in the heart of the city, featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. You can can climb to the top of the 26m ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city. www.gioiellinascostidivenezia.it Sat-Sun 10am-6pm.

The great Italian amusement park invites you to enjoy moments of carefree fun with your family and friends. Discover the new online booking service and the apps to book the attractions: this allows the use of ‘virtual queueing’ which reduces potential crowding. Don’t miss the new outdoor shows for the 2020 season: 44 Gatti Rock show and AquaFantasia. www.gardaland.it

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WHERE NOW | EVENTS

Venice unrolls its red carpet Lido di Venezia, 2-12 September BIENNALE CINEMA 2020 77th Venice International Film Festival 12  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P P T E M B E R 20 20

Every year, the end of summer in Venice coincides with the beginning of the eagerly-awaited Film Festival. Between world premieres and international guests the red-carpet train the spotlight on the Lagoon city.

T

his edition of the Venice Film Festival will present certain changes: as to comply with the mandatory measures required to guarantee that participants may attend safely, the overall number of films in the Official Selection will be lower, although not by much. The line-up in fact confirms the competitive sections Venezia 77 and Orizzonti, the Out of Competition section, and Biennale College Cinema. The screenings will take place in the theatres where they have been traditionally held on the Lido. The Venice Virtual Reality competition on the other hand, will be shown entirely online, thanks to an innovative dedicated platform accessible to all accredited visitors.

Two outdoor arenas will be installed in the Giardini della Biennale and in the skating rink on the Lido. Most of the films in the official line-up will also be screened at the Cinema Rossini in Venice and at the Centro Culturale Candiani in Mestre.

LET’S SHARE THE BEST OF THE INTERNATIONAL CINEMA With regards to the temporary reorganization of the Venice Film Festival programme, the Artistic Director Alberto Barbera stated: “The Official Selection of Venezia 77, with its 50-55 films from around the world, will provide its traditional overview of the best that the film industry has produced in recent months, thanks to the


extraordinary response by directors and producers, despite the arduous working conditions over these past few months. A significant number of directors and actors will accompany the films to the Lido, while Internet connections will make it possible to hold press conferences with all those who will be unable to participate in person, due to the travel restrictions that remain in place”.

THE OPENING AND CLOSING NIGHTS OF VENEZIA 77 Italian actress Anna Foglietta will open the 77th Venice Film Festival on the evening of Wednesday 2 September, on the stage of the Sala Grande (Palazzo del Cinema on the Lido) for the inauguration ceremony, and will host the closing ceremony on 12 September, with the announcement of the winners of the Lions and other official awards of the 77th Venice Film Festival.

NEW DATES

The 17th International Architecture Exhibition How Will We Live Together? – curated by Hashim Sarkis –will open in 2021 and will last 6 months, from 22 May to 21 November. The 59th International Art Exhibition, curated by Cecilia Alemani will be held in 2022, from 23 April to 27 November.

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WHERE NOW | EVENTS

Paul Newman

The ‘prima donna’ of the world cinema

Brigitte Bardot

The timeless, unique charm of Venice has transformed the city into the lead player of famous films. You may say Venice, but you actually mean the Lido. The Lido, meaning beach in Italian, is that narrow strip of land extending for about a dozen kilometres in front of the Serenissima. It’s here that the Film Festival is set. In fact, the Lido has played host to the Film Festival since August 1932, when the first edition of the ‘Festival di Arte

Camera, lights, action! The ‘campielli’ and canals acted as a backdrop to the love story between Florinda Bolkan and Tony Musante in ‘Anonimo Veneziano’, 1970, while the Lido and the Grand Hotel Des Bains were immortalized in ‘Death in Venice’ (1971) in a film by Luchino Visconti. Prior to that, in 1963, several scenes from ‘From Russia with Love’, in which Sean Connery plays James Bond, were shot on the Island of San Giorgio, on a gondola under the Bridge of Sighs, and at the Danieli Hotel. In 1979, it was the turn of another James Bond, Roger Moore, who starred in

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Cinematografica’ was held on the terrace of the Lido’s most iconic hotel, the Hotel Excelsior, attended by almost every major name in the world of showbiz: in no particular order, Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Vittorio De Sica, Joan Crawford, Al Pacino, Sean Penn, Salma Hayek, Marlon Brando, Scarlett Johansson, Nicole Kidman, George Clooney, Kevin Costner, Martin Scorsese, Harrison Ford and the Italians: Federico Fellini, Alberto Sordi, Sofia Loren, Monica Bellucci, Claudia Cardinale, Pier Paolo Pasolini and Gina Lollobrigida. Even Charlie Chaplin attended the event in 1972, as did the eccentric Salvador Dalì in 1958.

'Moonraker' which was shot in Murano and at the Glass Museum. More recently, Steven Spielberg’s, 'Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade' (1989) immortalized Harrison Ford near the church of San Barnaba. Views and canals were also lead players in ‘Everyone Says I Love You’ (1969) starring Woody Allen and Julia Roberts while, more recently, yet another James Bond, Daniel Craig, the lead player in 'Casino Royale' (2006) was seen speeding along the Lagoon. Finally, the list can only end with 'The Tourist', where Venice acts as a backdrop to the incredible adventures of Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp.


REAL AND IMAGINARY LOCATIONS ▼ THE CASINÒ The monumental Palazzo del Casinò was built in 1938 and designed in Italian rationalist style, typical of the Fascist era. In stark contrast to its austere travertine stone façade, its spacious interiors were decorated with marble, mosaics and artistic Murano glass, and were used for gaming and entertainment. Its entrance, for those arriving from Venice, consisted of a long corridor decorated with mirrors and curtains connected to a monumental staircase and elevators. The Casinò was closed at the end of the 1990s, and, since that time, its spaces have mainly been used for festival-related press services, including press conferences and screenings for the public and industry members.

▲ HOTEL EXCELSIOR Overlooking the beach of Venice’s Lido, this 5-star resort, built in Moorish style, opened its doors to the public in July 1908 with a legendary opening party, attended by more than 30,000 Venetians and more than 3,000 international guests. Designed with the idea of recreating a luxury Venetian palace, the hotel soon became the destination of choice for the beau monde and Middle-European high society. Over the years, its roster of famous guests has included Winston Churchill, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman and the Aga Khan. The first edition of the Venice Film Festival was held on its terrace in 1932 and, today, with its 196 rooms and suites and exclusive private beaches, it continues to be ‘the place to be’ during the Film Festival. An interesting fact related to the theme of celluloid. One of the cult scenes of ‘Once Upon a Time in America’, where the two starring actors dine in a luxurious restaurant reserved exclusively for them, was shot in the Excelsior’s sumptuous Sala degli Stucchi. (www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com)

▲ HOTEL DES BAINS Another hotel which, at the beginning of the 20th century, irrevocably changed the face of the Lido, becoming an integral part of that aura of glamour with which Venice’s Film Festival is associated. Built in 1900, in Italian Liberty style, and despite being closed several times due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, the Des Bains was chosen as a set for a number of famous films including Anthony Minghella’s ‘English Patient’ and Luchino Visconti’s ‘Death in Venice’, a film adaption of the melancholy novel by Thomas Mann, who was also an aficionado of the hotel. In the last scene of the film, we see the lead actor slumped on a deck chair, silhouetted in the background by the luxurious white and blue beach huts that made this stretch of beach famous. Although the hotel is now closed, its communal rooms decorated in deco style, its art nouveau furniture and its long beach, reminiscent of the melancholy atmosphere of the 1930s, inevitably transport us to that period of intellectual vibrancy and exclusive luxury which have now been lost.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

▼ PALAZZO DEL CINEMA Famous Italian film director Federico Fellini once commented that “Entering Venice’s Palazzo del Cinema is like passing a final exam.” This imposing modernist building, opened in August 1937, was renovated several times over the years to adapt to the requirements of the increasing need for space. Today, the only remaining elements of the original building are its two rounded sides and lateral facades. Designed to accommodate up to 1,032 people, the Sala Grande – where the main screenings and award ceremonies of the Festival are held – underwent a series of transformations. The final phase, completed in 2011, involved a radical restoration of its interiors.

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE

PH © MICHELE CROSERA

1 January NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERT AT LA FENICE Traditional concert at the Gran Teatro La Fenice. The concert is broadcasted live and followed by audiences from all over Italy.

May-November THE BIENNALE The Biennale kicks off with a mega event dedicated to art (odd-numbered years) and architecture (even-numbered years). Running alongside the two main events at the Giardini and the Arsenale, are city-wide exhibitions, events and installations. The Dance (June), Theatre (July-August), Film (AugustSeptember) and Music (September-October) Biennali take place from May to November. VOGALONGA A 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.

6 September REGATA STORICA / HISTORIC REGATTA One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER HOMO FABER: CRAFTING A MORE HUMAN FUTURE. LIVING TREASURES OF EUROPE AND JAPAN A bi-annual showcase of the finest European craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (Island of San Giorgio Maggiore). PH © HERMES

JANUARY

JUNE

6 January REGATA DELLE BEFANE Venice celebrates Epiphany with a funfilled regatta, complete with a fleet of men dressed as Father Christmases and Befane (witches). The procession leaves from the Grand Canal, loops around the ‘paleto’ (a stake in the water), and returns to the Rialto Bridge.

FEBRUARY/MARCH VENICE CARNIVAL Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the world’s most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas.

APRIL VENICE NIGHT TRAIL 2020. RUN THE BRIDGES A 16km competitive night marathon that crosses through the historic centre of Venice. 25 April FESTA DI SAN MARCO/ FEAST OF ST. MARK In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city.

SALONE NAUTICO VENEZIA An open-air boat show staged at the Arsenale, the world’s most historic dockyards in the heart of the ‘Serenissima’.

JULY Third Sunday of July FESTA DEL REDENTORE / FEAST OF THE REDEEMER A parade of boats in the Giudecca canal, plus a dazzling fireworks display on Saturday evening.

SEPTEMBER End of August/beginning of September INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF CINEMATOGRAPHIC ART The Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale and runs at the Lido di Venezia. Founded in 1932, it is the oldest film festival in the world.

FESTA DELLA SENSA AND SPOSALIZIO DEL MARE Celebrations include regattas, a waterborne pageant and the Sposalizio del Mare (Marriage of the Sea). The event is held on Ascension weekend.

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THE VENICE GLASS WEEK

OCTOBER End of October VENICEMARATHON One of the most unique 42K road races in the world. It leaves from Villa Pisani (Brenta Riviera) and ends in Venice.

21 November FESTA DELLA SALUTE A religious festival dedicated to the Madonna della Salute, whose namesake church is located at Punta della Dogana, and connected to Santa Maria del Giglio via a temporary wooden pontoon bridge set up over the Grand Canal.

THE VENICE GLASS WEEK The most important international festival dedicated to glass art. Highlights include exhibitions, conferences, performances, workshops, themed dinners and guided tours, plus a slew of other events.

MAY

HOMO FABER

NOVEMBER 2020

PH © NICOLA NUNZIATA

NEW YEAR'S EVE AT LA FENICE

End of November TEATRO LA FENICE NEW SEASON Launch of the new season at Venice’s ancient opera house. The new calendar generally opens with an Italian opera.

DECEMBER 2020 CHRISTMAS CONCERT AT ST. MARK’S BASILICA The traditional Christmas Concert of the Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, featuring the Choir of the Marciana Chapel, is staged under the magnificent golden mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica.


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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Discover & Enjoy Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Venetian traditions or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. 5-13 SEPTEMBER

The Venice Glass Week

This year the event devoted to the glassblower’s art places the accent on “making” glass, to relaunch Murano glass production. Entitled #TheHeartOfGlass, the fourth edition of the festival proposes around 150 initiatives in Venice, Murano and Mestre, mostly with entry free of charge: exhibitions, guided visits, conferences, seminars, awards ceremonies, screenings, educational activities, race events between the furnaces and open furnaces. Alongside the traditional events, a special programme of online appointments to also keep the connections with the international public alive. www.theveniceglassweek.com

UNTIL 10 JANUARY 2021

Venice and American Studio Glass at Le Stanze del Vetro-Fondazione Giorgio Cini

Thanks to an extraordinary selection of glass works by artists and designers – 155 exceptional pieces including vases, sculptures and installations created by 60 American and Venetian artists – this exhibition is the first of its kind to examine the influence that aesthetics and traditional glass working techniques have had on America’s Studio Glass, and more generally on contemporary American glass art from the Sixties to the present time. www.lestanzedelvetro.org – www.cini.it

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UNTIL 13 DECEMBER 2020

Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana

The beginning of July marked the re-opening of the cycle of exhibitions at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, the prestigious spaces of the Pinault Collection. In addition to ‘Henri Cartier-Bresson: Le Grand Jeu’, an exhibition that looks at how the famous French photographer’s work is viewed by five different curators, Palazzo Grassi is hosting a monographic exhibition dedicated to artist Youssef Nabil, titled ‘Youssef Nabil. OnceUpon a Dream’ (until 20 March 2021), featuring hand-painted photographic portraits that recreate the idea of a legendary Egypt – a mix of symbolism and abstraction. On the other hand, the large spaces at Punta della Dogana will host ‘Untitled2020. Three perspectives on the art of the present’, a site-specific project conceived by Caroline Bourgeois, Muna El Fituri and artist Thomas Houseago, that showcases the work of 60 artists, accompanied by references and quotes ranging from the 20th century to the present time, displayed according to a dialogue based on emotional, sensory, visual and tactile connections. www.palazzograssi.it

UNTIL 10 JANUARY 2021

Jacques Henri Lartigue at Casa dei Tre Oci

The largest retrospective ever organized in Italy dedicated to French photographer Jacques Henri Lartigue, a narrator of the Belle Epoque who was only rediscovered in 1960. The exhibition“Jacques Henri Lartigue. The Invention of Happiness. Photographs” featuring 120 images, 55 of which are on display for the first time, traces his entire career, from his debut to the Eighties, reconstructing the story of his discovery as a photographer. www.treoci.org

Untitled 2020 at Punta della Dogana

UNTIL 30 MAY 2021

Domus Grimani 1594-2019 at Santa Maria Formosa

After four centuries, this exceptional exhibition celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Grimani of the collection of classical statues and furniture that once belonged to Patriarch of Aquileia, Giovanni Grimani. The works are displayed in the sequence of rooms (the Camaron d'Oro, Sala a Fogliami and Antitribuna), leading to the Tribuna, which was built to house more than 130 sculptures, amongst the most precious in the collection. polomusealeveneto.beniculturali.it

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Unique Italian Landscape The variety and beauty of its “landscape” is what makes Italy unique. This term is not always easily translatable but relates to the environment and the many ways in which man has transformed it, during its multifaceted history. The result is a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

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The Italian ‘Lake district’

Over the past few years, due to the influx of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water and the diversity of the countryside make the area a real outdoor recreation ground. Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and DOP olive oil.

Mantua, the city of the Gonzagas

Though less well-known than Venice or Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated in Northern Italy on the banks of the River Mincio, is packed with art treasures. Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Lombard city experienced its maximum period of splendour during the Renaissance, when its most famous masterpieces were executed. A renowned patron of the arts, Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio

Bologna, the university of Italy

Built in 1088, most historians agree that the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world. Thanks to the continuous turnover of students from all over the world, from medieval times to the present day, this university has made Bologna a vibrant city from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè Carducci, one of the most important Italian poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which I cannot regret, but I love it more because it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the historic centre with its porticoes and towers, streets and markets, and main square with the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly surroundings are also breathtaking.

Portofino, home to the ‘piazzetta’ and mysterious villas

With its narrow streets leading down to the sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olives groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence.

Tuscan

times, this beautiful coastal village has been a highly sought-after holiday destination. And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino is a reference point for international tourism. Although its hotels are astronomically priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are many anecdotes about the town which was used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after the tomb was opened and his villa became a site of sinister, inexplicable happenings…

Tuscany, the Italy that everyone dreams about

There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. 22  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique throughout the world. Ultimately, there are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians and foreigners. There are gently rolling hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding streets and stone houses scattered around the countryside. The Tuscan experience is bound to win over your heart. However, if you haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof! Ah, the wonders of Tuscany!

northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts are located. The summer getaway for the rich and famous including financiers, big names in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to defend the shipment of the precious marble quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, thus making it an important crossroads for trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury shopping.

Forte dei Marmi: the sea of Tuscany

“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic and neglected. People are friendly and ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee

In addition to being the birthplace of a queen (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of

Naples and then…

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Portofino

Matera


are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee for yourself, and then purchasing another one for someone else who doesn’t have the money to pay for it. Naples is the ideal starting point to explore the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the world.

Matera, the hidden pearl of the South

When it became the European capital of culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark ages, and is one of the most intriguing places in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the other, they overhang a gorge to create an incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist track, Matera has often been used as a film set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Passion of Christ’.

The Kingdom of Baroque

Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns. Protected by UNESCO, and located in southeastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your heart and leave you awestruck. Although almost all of these towns existed during medieval times, they were razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle of beauty: architecture, urban planning and the ornamentation of buildings constitute the crowning achievement of one of the last periods of the flourishing Baroque movement in Europe. An absolute marvel!

STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY originally covered the Colosseum. They were ‘recycled’ to build several historic Roman buildings including the Basilica of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.

Florence

Venice

Venice

With canals in the place of streets, and boats instead of cars, Venice, the city of a thousand bridges, spectacular facades, and breathtaking views, offers a dreamlike vision. This romantic city par excellence, has a wealth of historic and artistic treasures that would be difficult to find in any country other than Italy. To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze wander over the lagoon.

How can one describe a city which originated in the Renaissance in just a few words? It’s impossible! The only solution is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It is really no surprise that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since there is not one centimeter that is not worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that you make time to lose yourself amidst its art and architecture, its history and its landscapes. There’s just one thing that you need to remember: this is the place where Stendhal experienced what was later to become known as the Stendhal syndrome…

Rome

Fifteen square kilometers and twentyfive-thousand attractions: Rome’s historic centre has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely photographed monument in the world, the Colosseum is considered one of the 7 wonders of the modern world. The memory of its performances – gladiators, wild animals and naval battles – re-enacted in the arena have always fueled the fantasy of history and film buffs. However, everyone is aware of what happened to the 100,000 cubic metres of shining white marble that

Rome

Florence

Turin

A Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout. Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes which house shops and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Virtual Tours of ITALIAN Museums 24  W H E R E M V EI N L AI CNE I I SSEEPPTTEEMMBBEERR 22020 020


Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

Though some of the major museums in Italy are now open upon reservation, there are many other ways to discover their cultural offer without the need to book your seat. Where? Online, of course! We've rounded up a selection of the Italian museums offering virtual tours and online activities to satisfy your cultural whims. BY GIULIA MINERO

E Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

ven now that the COVID-19 lockdown has come to an end, institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are providing their visitors with the chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions and even enjoy special activities comfortably from home. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice.

Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Those who would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Fondazione Prada MILAN

Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. According to this new concept of multimedia experience, the foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  25


WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice. Ph © Matteo De Fina

ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. A new online section, for example, enables visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – and their artworks online. “Percorsi Possibili” is the virtual space gathering texts and readings by artists and journalists who have powered an art dialogue with the recently departed art critic Germano Celant through over 40 projects created by Fondazione Prada from 1995. Conversely, on Instagram the online project “Love Stories – A Sentimental Survey by Francesco Vezzoli”, explores the emotional, love and psychological status of a vast online comminuty thanks to the new language of social media. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org

Triennale Milano MILAN

The official website of the Milanese hub for design enables visitors to enjoy interviews, podcasts and highlights on the world of art and culture, as well as videos and images from the historical archives of the Triennale. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.triennale.org

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE

The MuseoCity association, together with Google Arts&Culture has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in 26  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

AN ITALIAN HISTORY A rich online program powered by Galleria Campari tells of the the contents that are part of the brand’s Historical Archive, as well as the the museum and the space hosting it. Some of the most iconic advertising campaigns by artists such as Marcello Dudovich, Fortunato Depero and Bruno Munari and modern and vintage objects can be discovered thanks to online guided tours powered with the 3D technology. Book your tour by writing to galleria@ campari.com

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Thanks to the collaboration between MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, the gems of the Capodimonte Museum can be admired online straight from home. The Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it


WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

The “green” revolution Organic drinking is now an established tendency, a trend that is constantly growing in Italy, due both to the demand from consumers who are more sensitive to the themes of sustainability and to the increase in certified organic land, but also due to the increase in the numbers of new 28  W H E R E VMEI N L AI CNE I I JSUENPET E2020 M B E R 2 020

wine bars solely devoted to organic, biodynamic or natural wines. In recent years lifestyles that are attentive to and respectful of nature have also led to the choosing of products with less impact on nature and with higher quality and improved production ethics. BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER


E. Pira & Figli-Chiara Boschis, Barolo wine takes place on the grape skins in amphorae. Initially an idea for a few “wine anarchists”, this has nevertheless launched a major movement that has brought natural, biodynamic and organic wines to everybody’s lips. Indeed, today orange wines are appreciated by the public at large as the fourth colour of wine with its own specific identity. Today we can say that green wines present themselves as being of excellent quality, produced with the necessary care and (often) flawlessly. There are three main green categories, which it is important to get to know for an aware purchase, because organic, biodynamic and natural are not synonymous.

L

Querciabella, Greve in Chianti

et’s go back in history: the very first finds indicating wine growing date back to 7000 years ago and take us to Georgia, the cradle of wine, where amphorae have been found with traces of white wine inside them. Mankind gradually refined the method of producing wine, changing the processes of production and its nature (and often turning it on its head). Around 20 years ago a trend of return to the origins began with the rebirth of white wines in the amphora, so-called “Orange Wines” (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Slovakia and Georgia), where the vinification of white

“The grape is Nature, wine is Culture” Frank Cornelissen, pioneer of green winegrowing in the Etna area (Sicily)

> Natural wine: it has not had any legal recognition by the European certifying bodies. The term groups together many winemaking styles inspired by the naturalness of the process, envisaging the smallest possible number of interventions in the vineyard and the wine cellar, the absence of chemical additives and of handling by man. In Italy there are various associations of producers that are carrying forward the idea of a “cleaner” viticulture.

> Organic wine: it is governed by European regulation 203 of 2012, which states that every producer of organic wine requires a certificate of compliance that allows the use of the mark or the wording on the label. It refers to the reduction of chemical interventions, both in the vineyard and in the wine cellar, with the limitation of sulphites, the elimination of chemical substances, the reduction of use of water resources and the prohibition of use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in the vineyard. > Biodynamic wine: in addition to being organic, biodynamic wines are produced following the spiritual vision of philosopher Rudolf Steiner and his idea of nature in equilibrium. Thanks to the phases of the moon, it is necessary to keep the land balanced in a natural way with all its organisms, with natural interventions and the use of only biodynamic preparations (natural composts) in given phases of the year. Although it is not yet recognised at legislative level, the Demeter association regulates the process with the maximum quantities for sulphites, no use of chemicals and a reduced use of machinery.

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  29


WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

TOP 10

Here is a TOP 10 of different products and producers in the “green” sphere, who through experimentation, research and a huge amount of work have succeeded in creating a product capable of creating strong inspirations and emotions with excellent local products - thanks to the ever greater sensitivity of people towards authentic eco-friendly products.

Trentino-South Tyrol Pojer & Sandri – Zero Infinito Solaris 100% (resistant variety) 12% alc., organic sparkling wine, pet-nat www.pojeresandri.it

Lombardy Barone Pizzini – Animante Extra Brut, Franciacorta DOCG Chardonnay 84%, Pinot noir 12%, Pinot blanc 4% 12% alc., organic sparkling wine, traditional method www.baronepizzini.it

Liguria Rocche del Gatto – Spigau Senza Tempo 2011 Pigato 100% 13.5% alc., natural wine, orange wine www.rocchedelgatto.com

Friuli-Venezia Giulia Damijan Podversic – Malvasia 2015, Venezia Giulia IGT Malvasia Istriana 100% 14,5% alc., natural wine, orange wine www.damijanpodversic.com

Calabria Ceraudo - Grayasusi Etichetta Argento 2018, Val di Neto Rosato IGT Gaglioppo 100% 13% alc., organic rosé wine www.ceraudo.it

Piedmont E. Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2017 DOC Barbera 100% 15% alc., organic red wine www.pira-chiaraboschis.com 30  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

Mario Pojer e Fiorentino Sandri Barone Pizzini


Veneto Musella - Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2015 DOCG Corvina e Corvinone 70%, Rondinella 20%, Oseleta 10% 16% alc., biodynamic red wine www.musella.it

Tuscany Querciabella - Querciabella 2016, Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Sangiovese 100% 13,5% alc., organic red wine www.querciabella.com

Sicily Frank Cornelissen - Susucaru Rosso 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP Nerello Mascalese 85%, Nerello Capuccio, Minella Nera, Allicante Bouschet, Minella Bianco 14,5% alc., organic red wine www.frankcornelissen.it

Marche Pievalta – Curino 2016, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito DOC Verdicchio 100% 12,5% alc., biodynamic dessert wine www.pievalta.it

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area. Info and contacts mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Querciabella

Pievalta

Frank Cornelissen w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  31


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The luxury heart of Venice The lifestyle department store Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.

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panning 7,000 square meters, luxury department store Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the very first DFS retail space in Europe, features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, food and wines, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1222, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store, renovated by the renowned architect Rem Koolhaas, offers a world of fashion, luxury and craftsmanship and hosts a rich program of cultural events and art exhibitions. The ground 32  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

floor is dedicated to the Venetian and national excellences and the courtyard is home to the café/restaurant AMO by Alajmo, embodying the real soul of Venice. The department store has chosen to celebrate its reopening this month by dedicating its shop windows to craftsmanship and quality design, a distinctive element of Venice: the windows of Fondaco will host the creations of 12 Venetian designers, by birth or adoption, who share their desire to enhance the artistic and handcrafted heritage of the territory. Discover the new program of online services called MYFONDACO, designed for those who want to receive an exclusive, customized and fast treatment. By sending a message to 348 918 2180 on WhatsApp,

you can receive information on products and brands, book an appointment for a "personal shopping" session, reserve a videoconference consultation. It will also be possible to purchase online a selection of recommended products. And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace (open from 10.30am to 6.30pm by appointment) is breathtaking! >> Fondaco dei Tedeschi Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi Open daily 10am-7pm. www.dfs.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS - Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 58-59. TRANSPORT - References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING - This directory, grouped

by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 31. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2(San Tomà stop). Map D4

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  33


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Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. fano A member of the major world diamond Teatro la Fenice exchanges, Anversa and Tel Aviv, the CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI Diamond Atelier offers exceptional Maurizio quality standards that include only CAMPO San Moisè SAN MOISE’ certified gemstones (St. Mark’s Square, Santa Maria 67 and Cannaregio, 2342). For lovers AMPO del Giglio Salvadori awaits you at MAURIZIO of timepieces, CAMPO the Rolex Boutique (St. Mark’s Square, SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO CORTE 44) and Panerai Boutique (St. Mark’sBAROZZI Palazzo Square, 47). CA

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CAL R IO LE D LI EN 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 of weaving on original looms that Lonce belonged TER EL V DI À BA O LT O S RBA FRU RAMO (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro Fenice). to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri TA RLa DEL M CORTE DEL IO L ORA POZETO T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). DE ORO Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. Devoted to the ongoing search for objet Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO AM Santa Sofia T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio R eria Internazionale d’art and antiques, the missionA Dof this highly VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN CA E A Le Zoie LL C O RT E stop). Map D3 San Lazzaro E d'Arte Moderna qualified antique dealer is to keepN the interest in VA B ATA G I A O R VA IS Ca’ D’Oro Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with CO CORTE dei Mendicanti authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the showcase rareApostoli antique watches and jewelry but Santi city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLOthat are unlikely to also specializes in collections CAL GAB LE on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI LI be found elsewhere, including objects inspired to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovanni Al Duca d'Aosta by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medicalC A Mconcoction also PIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. C SAN CANCIANO D R IO A L L AN E M Originally established in Venice in 1902, LE Luterana known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30amID SCU W O LE Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. LE AL Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. CCAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 S.MARIA NOVA across Cthe Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. CAMPO DELLA ALL (Rialto stop). Map F4 San Cassiano E L ARG AN PESCARIA Mestre, Treviso A G and Udine. The historical fourC A N ZI Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 . GA A SAN D L L IN ZA A S A LI Santa Maria RI storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion CAMPO Antichità San Samuele O DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli brands for men and women, carefully selected Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua An antiques dealer since the Seventies, I R BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL OL LL to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These Antique books and priceless prints focusing E DE CAMPO CAMPO E D Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research I L FO Grisostomo CA EC RNO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C ED include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ primarily on preservation and authentic A and expertise in the field. San ST PASSION TIP EL TI LLI DELLA A BO Teatro TIP Malibran Esartorial E PAOLO gentlemen and BELLA VIENNA TASamuele specializes in religious antiques, designs for savvy-style with CAMPO bookbinding methods. PASSION CA LL SAN GIACOMETO LE ER Chiesa dell’Osped women’sE DEwear, BEfeaturing the iconic accessories Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, a particular focus on sculptures dating from the CA CORTE SECONDA DE M L PIE San Giacomo DEL and MILION engravings by 18th of the latest collections, including small leather CARAMPANE 13th through maps and views of Venice SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat NS LO ON di3130 Rialtocentury Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan BARBARIA DE LE TOLE I 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, E CA Casa di RA MP aesthetic. The store offers numerous special 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. (CalleCAMPIELLO delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900.CAMPO Vaporetto AN E Polo RIALTO facilities and services for its customers, including a SOLSamuele stop). Map E4 Fontego Marco www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle NUOVO line 2 DEL (San deiMandola). Tedeschi Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. della T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line O AN AV C R ALL Antichità Zanutto . DE Sant’Aponal EL ED Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 1 or 2 C(Rialto stop). Map E4 L FO C .M EL AD NTE ET A RT P IO H G M O IN E BO ContinuingRUaG longstanding family tradition, Ponte NG www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 OD SA CAL . PA N G FO L E L SA G IA LE CAMPO CORTE CAMPO Bevilacqua N in IOVNDA ZZO Tessitura Luigi CORTE LIZ the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San di Rialto AN ME DO TREVISAN stop). Map F4 ZA CAMPO 5220733. Vaporetto line DEL 1(Rialto NI NT ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A P L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO RA Artisanal weavers specializing in the production Marco to open his workshop specializing in DE CAMPO NO X LE L SAN LIO CA Rialto Pot-Pourrì of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings antique paintings,San with aSilvestro particular focus on CAMPIELLO LLO CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ Three exclusive boutiques set against the DE FORMOSA and curtains. PASSION VenetianSAN artists. Also offers evaluations and DA TIP A unique Aplace! FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO C. D NI EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO CA Since 1875, the company has practiced the art ZZO certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30amLL

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—www.dfs.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

The “FURLA Sleek” crossbody bag is made of grained leather with an Arco print. The model is characterized by a rounded shape with a practical zipper closure. Available in light pink, black, talco (white), cognac and fuoco (red).

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  35


STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic

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code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.


SHOPPING in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware. Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Fondaco dei Tedeschi The renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.dfs.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com.

San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlycoloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

The emotion of a jewel

Salvadori established its first store in the magical city of Venice in 1857. At that time, it only carried watches, period bedside and travel alarm clocks, grandfather clocks and wall clocks. However, it was only thanks to Gabriele Pendini, the company’s longtime president who had a passion for gemstones, that Salvadori became a tangible expression of high-class, sought-after jewelry. Today, Salvadori Diamond Atelier interprets every desire with style and experience, offering women emotions that go straight to the heart. Don’t miss the new Sospiri collection, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, a symbol of love and romance. The collection was designed and created by designer Marzia Pendini, who was inspired by the history of the bridge and fascinated by the structure of the small windows with its unique geometries. All the jewellery pieces - rings, earrings and pendants - are made of white or pink gold and are each set with 5 diamonds that mark the junction points of the intertwining design. NEW ONLINE SALES

Salvadori Diamond Atelier - Venice Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609 www.salvadoridiamondatelier.com

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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ND

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AN

LL

MAGGIORE

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SAN GIORGIO

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United States Pavilion

C

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LL

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MA

PE

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Russia Pavilion

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DE LLA

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ISOLA DI

Q

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RI

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MA

DE

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CA

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ND

CA LL

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RE SE

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

LE

C A L L E C ATA PA N

O E ANC

O

CALL

RI

AL

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

TI

RIB PPE GA

AR

IAN

M

GIUSE

E

SARES

TT

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE

A

I S E

DOMEN ICO CALLE SAN

DE

VIALE

O

VA

I

C

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

POLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E

BALD

AM ON

ERA

San Francesco di Paola GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

EPPE

SAL

LE

CROS

CALLE FRIZIER

IUS VIA G

CAL

E N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA C. LOREDANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

MARA

CALL E

FONI

ST

FONDAM

AVON

DE

LA TANA

S

CALLE TERCO

CA

RAMO DE

A RO SA

DI

LA TAN A

LA RG

O

DE

Basilica di San P CA LLE

TR

CAM PO

E COPP

I NO

VID A

E SCHI

AN

LA

CALL

DE

LE

NALE

CALL

E GR

TA A R SE

I

M IA

AMEN

RERA

RT

FOND

VA E NUO

DE

ENA

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CALL

CO

ARS

P IE

DEI FORNI

E N TA

N

DE

ini

SA

CA LLE

Verg

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DAM

PRET E DEI

CA

DEI ARSENALOTTI

M ORO SI NA

Arsenale

FON

FONDAMENTA

IO

LL E

CA LL E

San Martino

PIZ

E AC

O

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

OS

CA

LL

ONI

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

I ITT GR

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

HIA RUGA VECC

S C H I AV

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

LL E

LL

TE

E LL CA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

E COLT

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE ALBERO

AS

E DE LL CA

CR OS ER A

CASTELLO

DO NA

L’AN ZO LO

CA

CA

C

DE

LO

MP

OLA

CA LL E

N TI AR M

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

ZATT ERE

M E N TA

EL LO

CALLE DELA CREA

O

FONDA

E CA ST

CALL

ENTA

CATECUMENI

IER

E

GE

DA

OV

AN

TA PALLA

NU

EL

AMEN

LE SCU

SE

O C. VOLT

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

O

TA

IA

CH

CA

CAL

NATER PIG

N SA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

R I VA D EGLI

EN

LE ST

RI

MI

LA

VONI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

100 m

E

SC UO

COL

SCHIA

AM

CE

CALL

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

RIO TERRÀ

FO

TE PIC

DEGLI

DE

A DE AD SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

LE CAL

NI

LL

FOND

LLE

ENT A PON

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

SE ST ND

LL A

SALUT E

CA

CA

DAM

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

SAL IZAD A SAN

DE

CA LL E

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

LL E

GRIMANI CALLE INA DELF CALLE

IA

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

FEM

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

FO CA

N IO ST BA

RC

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZAD A SANTA GIUSTINA

CORTE DELLE GATE

IN MAR DE L’OS

VE

L DE

'EU

I PRET

E NUO

E LL CA

NT

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

RA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

I UD I SC GL E DE LL CA

SA

San Lorenzo

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

E GAT

N TA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

NCE

ASI DR

A N M

ZON

FRA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ENTA FONDAM

C. PIA NTON

R I VA

LE SAN

DE LE

ME

CALLE

FON

CAL

LLE CA

DA

Giudecca Palanca

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

IZADA SAL

Palazzo Ducale

Spirito Santo

ON

E DEL CAFE

CALLE BOSELLO

O

TO

FON DAM

mia

VE

CALLE ERIZZO

ONI CA

O

A O S

CALL

Rio San Lorenzo

VO HIA

San Giovanni Novo

CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

O

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

VIN CALLE DEL

SC

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

GA SAN

CAL

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

NUOVA IO ED M L RE DE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

N

CORTE NOVA

RO VE N SE SA

RC

CORTE

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

ADA DEL FORN

CALLE DEL NAVARO

O SAN

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

E LL CA

L MO GLI

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

DE LE BAN

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

RIT

LE DE CAL

TA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FFA GIU

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani GA RU

E ALL

O

EN

DE LE TOLE

TA EN AM ND FO

TER

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

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ZAT

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Santa Maria del Pianto

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AM

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MA

A DE RIV

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

LO EL PP CA

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N

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

ER

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AM

DE

TE

RL

CALLE DEL BASTION

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FO ND

LLE

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ASCE

CA

MB O D. PA LLE

GA

I

EN

BE

NO

l Palaz

LAR

I

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

SE

LIO

TO

IN

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

NE

RTIRI

NL

FONDA MENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

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O

BO

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NT

CAL

CAL LE

C.SA

AM

LL

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FOR

Rio De

CA AN E BI LL CA

VAL

Santa Maria del Giglio

E DEL PISTOR

se Moi San

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CORTE BAROZZI

DIC

CALL

MAR ZO

LE TRE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

A XXII

CAL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

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HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

L PIO

CORTE

ET

San Moisè

Rio

CALL

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CAMPO PISANI

CA GA BRLLE IEL

LE

G. GA LLI

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DEL FORNO

CALLE

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MICHIEL

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

ER

GO

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE TORRETTA

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PIA

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TOR SAR

LI

DE

EN

IA ER EL SS CA

INA

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’

GA

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RR

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CAMPO DEL VOLTO

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CA

CALL E

LI

AG

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RI BB I FA DE

DEL

CA AR

CAMPO SAN LIO

RUBBI

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LLE

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CA

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GR

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CALICE

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RI

DEL CO O

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CAL

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A DE

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CA LLE

CAL

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DE

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N

CAMPO

C.

CIN

AN

D

ZZ

RI

EO

C. DEL

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M

DE LA FAVA

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ORS

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CA

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

ID

San Giuliano

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PIS

SA LA CHIE

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ZA

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FO

A

CAMPIELLO STELLA

LI

SAN

EN

I

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CALL

FRU

LE DEL

GALIA ZZO

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AM

San Fantin

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LL

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

ST

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E

ND

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ER

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VE

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CA

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LL

DE

MARCO RO

CA

AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

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IR

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CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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A

RI BB I FA DE

SS

IM

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CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAL

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V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CA LL E MAR DE ZA M RIA EZ O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GI AR C. AP DE ZA IE C. LE RI RA DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

or

N SA

CA LU

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SA

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DEL M ORA

Teatro Malibran

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ad

AS

DE

LA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

X

lv

ND

RÀ

PI O

Sa

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LLE CA

A

RIO

San Salvador

LA

EN

RAMO

IOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO

n

MA

TE

OL

TEG

Sa

E

IN RN TE N PA SA

FON

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RO AT L TE DE

C. DE LE COLONNE

LA

DE

FA

LE

Accademia

AM

CAL

S.Canciano

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SABION

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CALLE GOLDONI

RSODU

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

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S

BO M BE

IA OP SC PI

I LL VA CA

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MAZ ZINI

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BA

TAR

LL

CAL

A

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ER RN CO

LL

RIO

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DO

TI CA

I

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AN TEATRO

ON RB L CA DE

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BA FRU

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ES

N

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CA

LA RG A

CORTE DEL

E LL CA

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AN

E FOS CAR

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Rialto

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M

VO

ELE SAMU

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CAL

ND

I

ER

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AV

A

CALL

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À BAR

Santajewel-like Maria Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny boutiques del Giglio San Vidal and vintage shops,Palazzo this 'unique' city offers Corner Ca' Giustinian U R O an array of 'unique'Ca’Granda della locations where you Palazzo Ponte Pisani dell'Accademia Gritti canGallerie indulge in an authentic shopping Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo Collezione Peggy Genovese experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di San Gregorio Santa put Maria to and accessories that you'll be hard della Salute find Santa Maria elsewhere. While strolling through its del Rosario Sant’Agnese esa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with Spirito Santo its characteristic vibrancy… BA

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Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin

San Maurizio

Palazzo Loredan

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CA

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CA

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OS

Santo Stefano

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

CA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BO TE GH E

●

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TE

SAN

A S. PISCIN

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RISI

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LL

DE

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo Ponte dei Tedeschi di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO C AL LE

. NA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

LL

O

CA

TT

SESTIE

RIO

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CA LL E

O

HE CR OS ER A

ND

LL

IO

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

●

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RI

AG

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ZE OZ RR CA

Ca' Rezzonico

e and l Gr

CA

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SC

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HIV

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San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

C.

E DE

LE

DE LLE CA

E LL CA

DE

RC

TA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

LE

L’A

IU

Piedàterre CAL

N RO

EN

SART ORI

CORTE DEL REMER

SAL IZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

G

GH

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

LE UE M SA S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

RU

ON RD SAN L PE DE

LL

nde Canal Gra

VE CC CO HIA RTE LEZZ E

VA

AN

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CA

CA LL EC A’

NO

R

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

NE

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E SA

PR

Santa Sofia

DA

PA

MPA

LIZ

TO

RAMO

RDO CALLE BERNA

CA DE M L PIEL SA NS LO ONI

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

CA ’M UT I

BO TA

I GA

LL

LA

DE

CA

AM

CA FOND .

R

RA

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

CA

C.

HET

MPIELLO DE LA VIDA

LE

LA

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

AG

O

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

a Can

San Tomà TR

SE

DE

CARAMPANE RÀ

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

●

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

RA

NZE

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

RA

O TALON

TE

E LL CA

SE

ND

A

CA

DO

CAMPO SAN POLO

La Bottega dei Mascareri DEL

RO

O

CAMPO APONAL

LE

EC

RI

RA

LL

ND RE

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

LE

CA

L’A GN EL LA

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAL

talon

DE

NE

CAMPO DEI FRARI

TO

I

C.

I

CORTE DEL TEATRO

R

DE

E DO

PRET

TE

CA LL E

LL

DEI

A LE

CA LL E

SAN POLO

E ZA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

ALLE

SC

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

NA MADO

ET

EL

ST

San Cassiano

CA

OR

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I

O FORN DEL

NT

LE

IN

DE CA CA ’B LL E ON VI DE NC IN

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C

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BO

FO ND AM EN TA

N

TI

CALLE

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Giardino delle Vergini

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RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

O

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

ASCENSIONE

CALLE

EREMITE

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

LARGA

SARTOR

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CALLE

RI

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

ROTONDA

L’ARCO

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CALLE

C. DEL

DEI CORTELLOTTI

DEL

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA SANTA NTA

PICCOLO

FONDAME

SIMON SAN

nzera

FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA

ROCCO

DE C.

SAN

ALBANESI

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI LARGA CALLE

SESTIERE

I

DORSODURO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

Scome De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

a

AI DIETRO

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

Bacin o Stazio

CALLE

S C H I AV

FONDAMENTA

Scom enzer

BASTION

SCUDI

ANTONIN

DE

R I VA D EGLI

SCHIAVONI RIVA

MARTIN SAN

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

VERONA

le

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

DEL

DEL

Palazzo

C.

LA

MINELLI

AM

CASTELLO

CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DELA CREA

FO

ND

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

DEGLI

FABBRI

DE

RC

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE

DEI

C.

CALLE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

A N M

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

FO

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

Sant'Eufemia

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

VERONA

Cana

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

LA

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

VAPORETTO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DRASI

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

LO

DEL CAFETIER

CALLE

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

SEVERO

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

Palazzo Ducale

MO

DEI PRETI

GATE

RUGA

SAN

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

Museo Correr

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

CALLE

DE LE

SAN

CALLE

RC

LATERANO

ZORZI

SALIZADA

CASTELLO

LIO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SALIZADA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

San Moisè

CORTE

NUOVA

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

PIA

DE

FONDAMENTA

FABBRI

C.DEI CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

DEL CALLE

DEL FORNO

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

Rio San Lorenzo

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

FONDAMEN TA

LE VIGNOLE

Santa Maria del Pianto

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

SAN

XXII MARZO

O

MUSSATO

CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

NOVE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

C.

C.

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

MOISE’

SA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CARRO

CALLE

PISCINA

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CAPITELLO

ENTA

SESTIERE

C. LARGA

CORTE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

FREZZERIA

DEL

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

CALLE

San

CALLE

CALLE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CALLE

CASTELLI

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE LE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

G. GALLINA

MIRACOLI

CALLE

CALLE

SALIZADA

SAN

Rio

CALLE

DEI

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

CALLE ERIZZO

BEMBO

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

RIO

LARGA

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

ORBI

CALLE

MADONA

DEI PUTI

DEL

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

DEI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CALLE

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CALLE

VI

VI

A

CO

A

DE

LE

TT

A

I R E

DE

L

Z AT

TA

VIA M

GIOVANN ON

DI

NI

I PIVIDOR

I

VI

A

M

AL

AM

OC

CO

VI

ISOLA POVEGLIA ALVISOPOLI

VI

A

M

AL

AM

OC

CO

VIA

VIA

FERRUCC

A

M

AL

AM

O

CC

O

IO

VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

REMER

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

DRIO

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

NOVE

BERLENDIS

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

MAGAZEN

CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE

CALLE

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

E

CALLE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

BOTERI

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

S.Canciano

FONTEGO

PIO

LUCA SAN

TERÀ

RIO

RAMO

MORETTI

LA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

DEL

CALLE

MANDOLA

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

CAOTORTA

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

DE

TODESCHI

Santo Stefano CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAL

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

RAVANO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

LARGA

DEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CALLE

CALLE

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

CALLE

DEL

FALIER

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

NOVA

San Silvestro

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CALLE

SARTORI

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

C.

LE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

Santa Sofia

STRADA

ORESI

C. DEI

CALLE

DE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

PONTE

DEL

RUGHETA

SAN

S. SAMUELE

DE

AL

PISCINA

RIELO

FOND.

ZATTERE

Giudecca Hilton

PRIULI

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Grimani

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

CROSERA

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

FOND.

VENEZIA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

FOND.

SAMUELE

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

VOLTI

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUTI

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

CARROZZE

Accademia

DE OGNISANTI

E

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

S. SALIZADA

LE

FONDAMENT

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

S.Silvestro

DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

LEZZE

DE

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

nde

CALLE

CA’ CORTE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

CALLE CHIESA

LA

CARAMPANE

DEL

SESTIERE

CALLE RAMO

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DELLA

LE

Gra

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

LE PAZIENZE

BESAGIO

DE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

del

C. DE

Rio

SALIZADA SAN

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CALLE BERNARDO

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano

S. Basilio

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DEL

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CANAL RIO TERA’

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

A

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

PERDON

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

L’AGNELLA

al Can

CALLE

ROSSA

LARDONI

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

L’ASEO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CALLE

FOMO

CALLE CALLE C.

SCALETER

CAMPO SAN POLO

TRAGHETTO

CAZZIOLA

RENIER

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

DE

DEL

San Tomà DEL

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE

O

LA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

ZANE

CROSERA

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

NUOVO

IC

DEI

Rio Nuovo

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

ER

DEL

San Felice

PARANGON

TABACCHI

San Pantalon

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

IS

RUGA

NUOVA DE L’OGIO

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

SAN

C.

TA

FABBRICHE

CALLE

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

C.

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

EN

CA'

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

LE

PAPADOPOLI

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

D

TA TA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

N

FONDAMEN

DEI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

DEI

MADONA

TERÀ

SAN

TINTORETTO

DEI

SAN MICHELE

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

CALLE

NA

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

San Rocco

Muneghete

CA

NA

DE

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

LA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

LE

ALE

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

MEZO

TINTOR

SCHI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

BASEGO

.DA

MA

TRON

DEL

TENTOR

DE

DEL

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

C.

CALLE

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

SALIZADA

CALLE

LA

S.Stae

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

L’ISOLA

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

DE

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEI

FO

À D E

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

PROCURATIE

LARGA

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

SAN

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

della

TER

VECCHIO

C.

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

PONTE

CALLE

DEI

IA

RIO

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

RD

R

STRADA

DI

BARI

FONDAMEN

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

RIO

ICO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

LUNGA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

MIS

E DEL PISTO

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

CALLE

CROCE

TA

Rio

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA LA CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

NA

RDIA

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

SE

MISERICO

TERÀ

People Mover Venezia

AM

I

A E M

LA

TO

LER

LL

DE

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

S A N TA

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

BIASIO

DEI

TRONCHETTO

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

nde l Gra Cana

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

FONDAMENTA

People Mover Venezia

EN

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

TRONCHET

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

Riva de Biaso

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

San Geremia

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

SPAGNA

AI

DE

AM

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

DI

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

DEI

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

SA

CAPITELO

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

RIO

CALLE

AM

B AT

TERÀ

TI

MUNEGHE

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CAVALLET

CA

CALLE

AI

LE

TA

CALLE

BECCARIE

EN

CALLE

LE

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

DE

FORNER

FO

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

DE

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

ND

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

CARLO

FO

A

San Giobbe

SEBASTIANO

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

TO

BRAGADIN

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHET

VENIER FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

A

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

QUERIN,

ER

CALLE

B

ISOLA

LA

Parco

LI

People Mover Venezia

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

LA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FONDAMENTA

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

NANI

A

FONDAMENTA

VI

CORTE

ER

ACCADEMIA

B

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

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expect to take you custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t

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Artistic Glass in Murano

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DINING

A tribute to the Venetian tradition A few steps from San Marco, the Ristorante Le Maschere at the Splendid Venice hotel offers an elegant dining experience based on typical Venetian flavours. By Giulia Minero

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ew things are capable of expressing the essence of Venetian dining better than a mouth-watering stop to taste fresh fish-based dishes and local products. The Ristorante Le Maschere, in the heart of the Hotel Splendid Venice, has become a point of reference for Venetians and guests from all over the world. In a beatiful and bright Campiello courtyard, illuminated by the natural light of Venice, you can appreciate authentic home cuisine based on fresh local fish, with the addition of a few innovative touches. Among the proposals not to be missed are tartare of fresh fish, cream of baccalà [dried cod] or first courses with schie [small lagoon shrimps], granseola [spider crab] or seasonal 40  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

vegetables, followed by mixed fried fish prepared fully respecting the Venetian tradition. The altana Solana, a traditional Venetian wooden terrace once reserved for noblewomen wishing to enjoy the sun and the breeze of the Laguna city undisturbed, is the panoramic spot where you can treat yourself with a nice cocktail overlooking the city. Here, with views of the roofs and bell towers of La Serenissima, in the summer months the ritual of an aperitif of Spritz, Bellini or the exclusive Laguna cocktail takes place, while at any time of the year the Byzantine-inspired Campiello on the ground floor provides the ideal location for a light lunch or a romantic dinner.

>> c/o Splendid Venice - Starhotels Collezione www.starhotelscollezione.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Map F4


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Al Mercà

Antiche Carampane

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www. anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

‘The’ café in Venice since 1720

Boasting almost three centuries of history, with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th-century wall panels, today as yesterday, the Florian is undisputedly the most fashionable and aristocratic rendezvous in St. Mark’s Square, a true symbol of Venetian hospitality. Figures as Casanova, Goldoni and Canaletto, and later celebrities from all over the world have flocked to this venue which, even today, continues to exemplify the utmost of Venetian style and taste. Deposit your shopping bags and sink into its plush red velvet banquettes while you wait for one of its impeccably whitejacketed waiters to serve you a typical house specialty on a silver tray... for a real trip back in time! Each and every delicacy served at the Florian, from its ‘semifreddo al tiramisu’ to its quiches, are the result of the creativity of its executive chef and pastry workshop, but also its barmen who whip up some of the frothiest cappuccino in town and are renowned for their trademark cocktails. www.caffeflorian.com

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DINING

DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Da Fiore

Kosher in Venice

PH © TIMOLINA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

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€€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotelthat La Calcina. A renowned Venetian restaurant offers topDorsoduro, 780 T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto notch cuisine in (Zattere). a sophisticated, elegant setting. line 2 or 5.1years (Zattere Thirty-five ago,stop). MaraMap and E6 Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s La Conca d’Oro most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. this Venetian institution has been turning out Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, Gran Canal 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Here you can taste the typical specialties of 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression stop). Map F4 of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on La Porta d’Acqua its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent is housed in a 15th century building and decorated opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5 Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Harry’s Bar Lineadombra

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all since it first opened, of almost every famous name the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 to step back in time and savour its slightly retro (Salute stop). Map E5 and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. Locanda Cipriani San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) For those who want to be close to Venice, or (Sanworlds Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 yet2feel away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a Il Nuovo simple yet Galeon evocative atmosphere, it is popular Located on via Garibaldi,gourmets near the Giardini della among knowledgeable as a fantastic Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

restaurant. ADo farmhouse Trattoria Forni from the exterior, it

has been withhas great charm, exuding The ownerrenovated Eligio Paties managed to make this an understated elegance with beautifuldistinguished restaurant a sought-after destination, country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. by its wide assortment of Venetian fare,www. thanks to locandacipriani.com. Piazza Fosca sense 29 the quality of the dishes andSanta a genuine of (Torcello Venetian island). T:hospitality. 041 730150.The Vaporetto 12 typically dining line spaces fromremind Fondamente Nove directionofBurano, then will you of the carriages the legendary take the Express” 9 line). Off Map “Orient and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 Taverna al Remer (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Wildner Althoughby the menu features simple, Opened the Fullin family in 1960, traditional it is patronized dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties

Map F3

including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. Trattoria Do Forni €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make or (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 this5.1 restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian

fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a PASTRY SHOPS genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality.

The dining Dal Mas spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary Express” pay tribute Located just a few“Orient minutes from theand railway station, to the history of offers Venice.a €€€. www.doforni.it. this pastry shop triumph of traditionalSan Marco,treats 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 sweet for breakfast (in addition to 5232148. croissants, Vaporetto line 1‘pan or 2 dei (SanDogi’ Zaccaria). Map F4 try their ‘zaleti’, and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know Wildner that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you Opened by theservings Fullin family in 1960,mini it is Sacher patronized can find single of mousse, by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. atmosphere is further enhancedCannaregio, by a spectacular www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. 149/a viewTerà overLista the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly (Rio de Spagna), a few metres from the fish-based and serves St. Lucia Station. T: 041classic 715101.Venetian Map D3specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Pasticceria Italo Didovich Castello, 4161. 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Should you find T: yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Map tourist G4 track), make a or 5.1 (San Marina (just Zaccaria a little offstop). the beaten beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Top-notch, prevalently fish-based, traditional Italian specialties and traditionalDO Venetian Venetian cuisine at TRATTORIA FORNI. dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Terrazza Danieli

Do Leoni

Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com The restaurant masterfully creates epicurean aquarelles beyond expectations that depict delicacies from the Adriatic Sea, and culinary inspirations of modern Venetian and East Mediterranean origin. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.

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Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Map F5

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5

Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this

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enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but


Š #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET

Il Ridotto

Quadri

Glam

wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map

Venissa

Rosso Venissa

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Osteria da Fiore


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St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Not only the most famous picture postcard of the city, and the great heart of Venice, St. Mark's is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions. The meeting with this unique city starts here...

T

he great heart of Venice, the Basilica of San Marco is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks and the city’s most important church. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-tobe-missed highlight. While in the area, make sure to ascend to the top of its bell tower, which offers superb views over the city. The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. 46  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

This is a place of worship and on entering visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. The church is open daily for prayer and at certain times or on certain days it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For reasons of safety, heavy luggage must be left outside (luggage can be deposited in Ateneo San Basso, in Piazzetta dei Leoncini, in front of the Porta dei Fiori, north facade). >> Basilica di San Marco San Marco, 328 T: 041 2708311 www.basilicasanmarco.it


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection

of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

PEGGY GUGGENHEIM IN HER GONDOLA, 1968. PHOTO TONY VACCARO / TONY VACCARO ARCHIVES

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.madonnadellorto. org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant

increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

YOUR 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVELING ING COMPANION COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Venice

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and®an adjoining museum

(see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits M AonG the A Z little I N E island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, WHERE ITALIA SRL WHERE SRL and theITALIA entire complex, which holds a number Via ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. Milano. marvelous including a maze, is worth T:of 02 349951 Fax T: 02 349951 -surprises Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 info@where-venice.com visiting. This small island, that is a part of the info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's PUBLISHER PUBLISHER ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF square, is AND separated from the Giudecca by the Andrea Jarach Andrea island Jarachof La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio lagoon (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 EDITORIAL EDITORIAL

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings

WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE

have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

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(PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE COMUNICAZIONE SRL) (PROEDI

Santa Maria della Salute

MANAGINGDIRECTOR DIRECTORto MANAGING Generally referred

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Daniele Misrachi Daniele jewel ofMisrachi 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially EDITORIAL COORDINATION EDITORIAL COORDINATION

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AlessandraFinzi Finzi(redazione@where-venice.com) (redazione@where-venice.com) important point, almost directly opposite the Alessandra Piazza SanEDITORIAL Marco, where Grand Canal MAGAZINE STAFF the Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz,

empties intoRomena the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, ElenaBinda, Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Brugnerotto, www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it Vida Simona P.K. Daviddi, ElenaSimona Peverata, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, delivering Venice from the plagueGiudici, of 1630. On MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Joy Lacanlale JoyNovember Lacanlale each year, a popular religious 21 WEB EDITORIALmarking STAFF Chiara Fonzi end (coordination), celebration, the official of the WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) Black Death, is held here. The church is also Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9amICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Dreamstime, 12noon/3pm-5.30pm. ICONOGRAPHY Archivio www.basilicasalutevenezia. Where® Italia, Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia - 2017 Vaporetto lineCITY 1 (Salute Map E5srl. CARTOGRAPHY MAP: File ©stop). Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Rachele Renna, landmark features 17Mailhac, monumental altars and Isa Faleschini, Paola ZannoniMarta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, is theZannoni largest church in the city. This medieval Paola (coordination "Welcome to Italy")

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,style, SALEShouses, SUPPORTin church in Gothic-Venetian PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT Grilli by COORDINATOR addition to two paintings Titian, the tombs COORDINATOR Paola Grilli and funerary monuments of numerous famous ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) 2750462. Vaporetto line 1,Maria 2, N Granata (San Tomà stop). HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Map D4 (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata

(maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi Santi Giovanni e Paolo CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina REG. TRIB. No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 One ofMILANO the city’s most important examples Senatore WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Paolo isGRAPHICSCALVE considered theNo.Pantheon of Venice PRINTED BY SPAROC WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH because all the Venetian doges, starting from Although publisher has made effort to include copyright credits, in PRINTED BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every the 13th century, buried here, together with the event of there being anyare errors, oversights or omissions, we would LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published numerous other notable personages. www. in the next issue. Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we Santi would like to basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published e Paolo note: this might inGiovanni theITALY next issue. IN Where® is (Please also published in site Milan by be Where® in Italia, in Rome by Tourist srl on marked Venetian dialect as ‘sanMedia ZaniPolo’ and in Where® Naples by IES Comunicazione srl by IN ITALY in Milan the city’s maps).isT:also 041published 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srlstop). (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione Map WHERE® F3 VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  49

IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,

Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several

16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA The Gallerie dell’Accademia, the greatest collection of Venetian painting in the world is housed in the historic complex of Santa Maria della Carità, which comprises the church, its monastery, and the Scuola Grande. www.gallerieaccademia.it/en 50  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

| SIGHTSEEING

Teatro La Fenice

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

Palazzo Ducale

Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert There never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the bestloved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a

visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com www.teatrolafenice.it. Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E

Maria Callas

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OUT OF TOWN

Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii

Verona and the Adige river

Although the Arena attracts music loversaficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house (in via Cappello 23) with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony (an interesting fact: you can now get married on the balcony

where Romeo promised his undying love for Juliet), while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. For more information visit www. sposamiaverona.it). Before leaving the house of Shakespeare’s heroine, don’t forget to

AMIDST ROMANTICISM AND BIEN VIVRE Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates vistors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Above all, Verona is is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life, which is further heightened in summer by a one-ofa-kind stage, its ancient Arena (the second largest amphitheatre after Rome’s Colosseum, dating back to the 1st century B.C.). The venue hosts a rich calendar of events including opera, Aida is not to be missed, – classical, rock and pop concerts, as well as ballet featuring some of the world’s most famous stars. 52  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

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CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page and on the right, aerial views of Verona, founded on the banks of the Adige some time in the 2nd century BCE. The city of the Arena (below) and of Romeo and Juliette, it is a World Heritage site. Many of the most famous Veneto villas are also protected by UNESCO: below, Villa Pisani in Stra.

touch the right breast of her statue. According to legend, this gesture brings good luck and helps you find true love. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on, and the crypt of what used to be the ancient monastery of San Francesco al Corso still houses the young Capulet’s tomb, for centuries, a pilgrimage for die-hard romantics. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. For more info visit www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

Piazza delle Erbe, Verona

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Located approximately thirty kilometers from Venice (see photo), it is probably the most famous of all Venetian villas. Built in 1721 and set within one of the most beautiful parks in Italy (renowned for its famous maze of love), its interiors are enhanced by numerous works of art, including the magnificent ceiling frescoed by Tiepolo. The villa, built in honour of the 114th Doge of Venice, Alvise Pisani, originally had 114 rooms and has hosted half of Europe’s ‘aristocracy’, who holidayed in the area, as well as numerous heads of state, including Napoleon, Mussolini and Hitler (their first meeting was held here in 1934). Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta.

Arena, Verona

Villa Pisani, Stra w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  53


OUT OF TOWN | VENETO This nickname, according to legend, derives from the story of a noblewoman, Elisabetta Dolfin, who was locked up here after allegedly being unfaithful to her husband. It was designed by the famous Renaissance architect, and is currently a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its linear, classical façade conceals frescoed rooms and luxurious interiors that are further enhanced in the evening by flickering candlelight. At the request of its owners, the villa is still without electricity. Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex, is also found in the vicinity of Mira. In addition to the rococo-style manor house, it has a boathouse, a small chapel, a courtyard, a greenhouse and a large garden enhanced by a lake. While in Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni, famous for having hosted the famous ‘King’s dinner’, organized by Federico, the owner of the time, for the future king of France, at which 22 courses were served. The two marble lions from which the villa takes its name were actually an 18th century addition. The eyes of the original lions were set with precious stones, which sadly were stolen by Napoleon in 1807. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei, who lived there during the 17th century, and who was buried in the adjoining oratory. For further information visit www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

Chioggia

Vicenza

CHIOGGIA Also known as ‘little Venice’, thanks to its scenic canals, which are the focus of its urban layout, Chioggia is perched on the Southern tip of Venice’s Lagoon. With its colourful houses, set closely together and intermittently interspersed with majestic churches and austere, aristocratic palazzi, Chioggia has maintained all the distinctive features of a fishing village. The most ancient part, a maze consisting of labyrinthine alleys and canals spread across a handful of islets resembles a docked ship, and is only connected to the mainland by a few streets, one of which leads to the long beach of Sottomarina, a perfect spot to enjoy a relaxing break. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 55 km by car or 1.30 hour (battello line19) VICENZA Vicenza, the birthplace of famous Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, boasts the largest 54  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016 020

number of UNESCO World Heritage sites. The town alone, features thirty nine, including palaces, villas and churches, with an additional 16 villas in the province, bringing the total to forty seven. The heart of Vicenza is the majestic Palladian Basilica, renovated in 2012 and surrounded by magnificent aristocratic palaces including the Loggia del Capitaniato, the neoclassical Palazzo Chiericati and Casa Pigafeta, with its elaborate Gothic decorations. Just outside the historic centre, three villas designed by Palladio are also worth visiting: the Rotonda, Villa Gazzotti Grimani and Villa Trissino. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 75 km

PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel . No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz'. cocktail.

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km


OUT OF TOWN

Padua

Marostica

MAROSTICA

MANTUA

This is the place where love meets chess. Standing in the middle of its main square is a huge marble chessboard where every second weekend of September a spectacular chess game is played by people dressed up in costumes, the re-enactment of a historical event dating back to 1454, when two knights who loved the same lady, decided to compete for her in a noble game of chess rather than engaging in a traditional duel. The winner married the girl… while the loser married her sister! Because the lady was secretly in love with the winning knight, she expressed her joy by illuminating the town’s castle, which still dominates the town from the top of a hill. The castle is now a romantic restaurant. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 95 km

“A city shaped like a Palazzo”: this delightful description given by academic and diplomat Baldassarre Castiglioni perfectly renders the idea of the charms and treasures offered by Mantua. Small and well designed, the city is, first and foremost, an original mixture of history and art. Originally an Etruscan settlement, it achieved its full splendour in Medieval times and, in particular, during the reign of the Gonzaga family, the Dukes of Mantua who conquered the city in 1328 and ruled benevolently until 1707. Important monuments including Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo del Podestà, Palazzo della Ragione and the churches of San Lorenzo (the "Rotonda") and S.Maria del Gradaro also date back to this period. The city is the Italian Capital of Culture 2016. DISTANCE FROM VENICE : 155 km

Mantua

VILLA BARBARIGO

Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, in addition to one of the most beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town. The villa, which was used as a residence prior to the design of its monumental garden, complements the majestic park. The garden was built during the second half of the 17th century by Venetian nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio. It was, the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the religious symbolism of the project designed by leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor Gianlorenzo. This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 statues sculpted in Istrian stone. There are also other minor sculptures that blend harmoniously with the architecture, streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features and fish pools that are scattered amidst numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more than 10 hectares of land. www.valsanzibiogiardino.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  55


© NULLPLUS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 56  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  57


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AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

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see page 2

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

12 THE GHETTO

2 PALAZZO DUCALE

8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

13 MURANO

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SAN SERVOLO

V I A L E PA N T O

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CIP

CATE NE

11

S. Servolo

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

IO

CA

VIA

CA LLE

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

ER

CA

N

E

SA

LL

A

CA

E

Parco delle Rimembranze

LL

CA

FONDAMENTA

Rio

Teatro Verde

E

LL

LL

TE

CA

ZI

TA

CA

O

CA

RI

EN

LL

R

AM

CA

E

E

G

LL

N

CA

LI

ND

E

NZ

SAN GIACOMO CALLE

LE

OC

LO

DE

CR

GE

JUNGHANS

del

TA

Santa Croce RIO CROCE

DE LE ERBE

LUNGO

CALLE

PONTE FIANCO

Lungo

EN

CROCE

AN

Ponte

AM

DELLA

EL

ERBE

ND

CH

CAMPO

CALLE

FO

CALLE

MI

FONDAMENTA

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

NOBILI

STRETTA

GRANDE

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

E

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE MORE

CALLE ALBERO

OSPIZIO

CORTE

M E N TA

LL

CALLE

FONDA

CA

DEI

GIUDECCA

SANT'ELENA

PICCOLO

PALLADA

SCUOLA

SANT'ELENA

PONTE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

TI

C

SO

BO

LI

CAR

SA

BB

C. D EL

CAL

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

IA

LÒ

United States Pavilion

Japan Pavilion

E

MAGGIORE

NT

FEM

FONDAMENTA

SAN GIORGIO

I

O

N

U I P

N

M

VA

IN

IO

C.

G

VIALE PIAVE

N

RD

'EU

CO

IA

NT

SCUOLA

CALLE

CALLE

NI

PALUDO

Russia Pavilion

G

SA

RE

CALLE

E

TA

EMB

RIO

AL

EN

E IV NOV

COLONNE CALLE

SALONI

GI

N

San Giuseppe di Castello

VI

AM

VIAL

EN

CALLE

ISOLA DI

D

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

AM

Giardini

S. Giorgio

N

Rio d el Giardini

CAPPUCCINE CALLE

SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE

FORNO

BO

DEL

DEL

CALLE

DONZELLA C. GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SAN

CALLE CAVALLI

CALLE

CALLE

MURAZZO

PIETA’

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAPPELLO RAMO

CALLE DEL FO

C. DE LA MADONETA

CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO CALLE

Nuove

CALLE CORONA

DELLA

C.

Fondamenta

LEONARDO

delle

GRECI

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE DEI

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

Canale

FONDAMENTA

DOSE DEL

VECCHIA

SALIZADA

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

BOMBASEI

C.

PARADISO

DEL

DEL

APRILE

CALLE

C.

CALLE

II

STAGNERI

C. DEI

CALLE

MERCERIA

LOVO DEL

SANT’ANTONIO

CALLE

CALLE BALBI

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

CALLE

DE

CALLE DEL FORNO

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Miserico

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA

RACHETA LA DE

Santi

FELICE SAN

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

I

CALLE

ZZ

CALLE

PO

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE DE

LE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

STELLA

CALLE

Dolce

BANDI

CA’

C.SANT’ANTONIO

VERDI

CALLE

D’ORO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

CALLE

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

CALLE DEI FUSERI

LA DE

CALLE

FOND.

CALLE

ND

AI ZATTERE

NUOVE

CALLE

C. ROSA LARGA

VECCHIA

CALLE

CORTE TREVISAN CALLE

FONDAMENTA

TRAGHETO

DEL

C.

C.

ROSA DEL CALLE

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

CALLE

CALLE STUA

L’ANZOLO

CALLE

CALLE

DE

LA

DE

DE

MATTIA SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE DA PONTE

DOGE DEL

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Apostoli

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

ALDI

CALLE

O

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

FONDAMENTA

A

IST

LL

DEL SABION

CE

R L C

IB PE GAR

DE

NA

ION

RI

MA

C.

CO

BB

IAN

RE SE

RI

SA

CORTE

I CASE

DELLE

CALLE

BECCARIE DE CALLE

CAPITELO

RÀ

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

LE

DEL

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

ET RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE RIO

CALLE

COLOMBINA

FONTEGO

MEGIO

SALITA

DEL

STAE

FORNO

SAN

DEL CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

CALLE

GRUE LE

CARMINATI

FONDAMENTA

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ORBI

GIUSTINIAN

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

C.

GIUSEP

TI

SARES

AR

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

M

VIALE

E

CALL

TT

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

I S E

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

DE

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

SALAMON

CALLE

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE ZUCCHERO

ALDI

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

VA

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

ROSA

MARAFONI

CALLE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola

GARIB

EPPE

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

IUS VIA G

LARGA

CALLE TERCO

NALE

FONDAME

CALLE

EUFEMIA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

NUOVA

BEATA

RAMO DE

DEI PRETI

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

COLTRERA

FOSCARINI

DE LA

CALLE

VENIER

FOND

CAMPO

CALLE

TERRÀ

VIDA

CALLE FRIZIER

PISCINA

LA

C. LOREDANA

RIO

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE

SANT'AGNESE

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CROSERA

BRAGADIN

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

CALLE

PISCINA

de le

CASTELLO

FORNACE

FONDAMENTA

LE

DI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALONI

INCURABILI

ENA

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Salute

CATECUMENI

TERRÀ

CALLE

ARS

PIETRO

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

E N TA

SAN

DEI CORTELLOTTI

DAM

RUGA VECCHIA

RIO TERRÀ

RIO

ROTONDA

DEI

RI

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

SA

FONDAMENTA

ACCADEMIA

CALLE

FON

FONDAMENTA

C. VOLTO

ONI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

S C H I AV

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

DEL PIOVAN

R I VA D EGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

COSMO

FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE

CROSERA

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

MARTIN

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

CALLE

LA

SANTA TA

QUERIN,

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA PICCOLO

FONDAMEN

SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA

ROCCO

DE C.

SAN

ALBANESI

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA LARGA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE RAGUSEI

DORSODURO

CALLE

I

CALLE

DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

O

TRONCHETT

DEL NOVA ISOLA

zera Scomen De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

Maritt ima

ne

SAN

L’ARCO

BASTION

SCUDI

DEL

MAGAZZIN

DEGLI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

AM

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

CALLE

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

ND

DE

SALIZADA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Spirito Santo

FO

FO

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

CALLE

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

DE

ZATTERE

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

ANTONIN

Arsenale

LAVRANERI

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

SAN

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

DRASI

SCHIA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

100 m

FONDAMENT A

CALLE

DE LE

DEGLI

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

O

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

PONTE

CALLE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE

R I VA

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

AI

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE ERIZZO

CALLE

TODESCHI

RC

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

Stazio

CALLE

San Lorenzo

Rio San Lorenzo

DEI PRETI

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEI

A N M

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

VERONA

nde Canal Gra

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

SEVERO

RUGA

SAN

LA

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

LO

ZORZI

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

O

MO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

Santa Maria del Pianto

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CASTELLO

ORBI

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

SESTIERE

BARBARIA

DEI

FABBRI

DE

RC

Museo Correr

RIVA

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

MA

SAN

ZZA

NTA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAME

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CALLE

DELL’OROLOGIO

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

DEL

DEL

PIA

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

C.

PISCINA

VERONA

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

LA

CROSERA

CALLE

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

C.

DEL

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

GALLO

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

TERÀ

DEL

RIO

CALLE

DE

MOISE’

XXII MARZO

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

SA PISCINA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA

DEI

CALLE

REDIVO

CALLE

CALLE GOLDONI

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEL

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

MEZO

C.

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

REMER

CALLE

FABBRI

CALLE

DE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

CASSELERIA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

DEL

TAGIAPIERA LE

LIO

BEMBO

SAN

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

MADONA

San Fantin CALLE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

VENEZIA

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

SALIZADA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

MARZARIA

C.

C.

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

O DEL

CALLE

DOLERA

DEL

Teatro la Fenice

San Gregorio

DEL FORNO

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

SAN

COCCO

CALLE CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA

SALIZADA

SANTO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

TEATRO

ASSASSINI

CALLE

CAMPO

SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

CALLE

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin CALLE

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CALLE

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

DEI PUTI

CALLE

SPIRITO

TERÀ

RIO

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

ZATTERE

CINQUE

C.

SAN CALLE

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

FONDAMENTA ALLO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Giudecca Hilton

DEI

Santo Stefano

Accademia

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

AI GESUATI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

LE

CALLE

DE

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

nde G ra

SAN

CROSERA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

TOSCANA

SAMUELE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli) CALLE

DEL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DE

S.

San Vidal

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

PRIULI

CALLE

DONZELA

LEZZE

CARROZZE

DEL PISTOR

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

NOVA

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

FALIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA

LA

FOND.

CALLE

LONGO

IA

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

BECARIE

DE

enzera

O

LA

C.

CALLE

IC

CAMPO DE LA

ORESI

Bacino

ER

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

e Scom

IS

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

DEL SOL

PARANGON

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Canal

M

FONDAMENT

VENDRAMIN

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

Palazzo Loredan

Zattere

VAPORETTO

TA

MUTI

RUGA

DE

ZATTERE

DEL

EN

CA'

San Felice

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

SALIZADA

CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

AM

DE

CALLE

DE LA

CARAMPANE

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

S. Samuele

FONDAMENTA

CA LLE

D

A A

San Cassiano CALLE DE

LE

DEL

DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

N

FONDAMENT

CAMPO

CALLE

DE

al Can

CA’ CORTE

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

dell'Orto

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

NA

Santa Fosca

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BONLINI

CA

NA

TIOZZI

SAN CASSAN

S. Toma' SX

CALLE BERNARDO

OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

DEI

San Tomà

CALLE

DE

NIE

DD

L’AGNELLA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

FONDAMENTA

PONTE

.DA

MA

CALLE

DE

FABBRICHE

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

FOND.

AL

LA

S.Stae

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

ZATTERE

DEI

FO

À D E

LE

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DE OGNISANTI

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN APONAL

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 The St. Regis Venice – San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4

Maison Venezia | UNA Esperienze – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Residenza Ducato – San Marco, 4283 • F4 Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4

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Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice Mestre Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC E CITY GUIDE Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Villa Patriarca Hotel – THE ST HEAR AND FRRONG A T OF Via Miranese, 25 Mirano - (Ve) THE CGILE IT

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