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Where Venice n 38 October 2019

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

OCTOBER 2019

Lost in Venice

The lagoon city abounds in art

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

吃喝玩乐 尽在这里

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


more reasons to smile unforgettable moments and designer brands for up to 70% less

save an extra 10%* mcarthurglen.it/noventadipiave show this page to guest services to claim your fashion passport

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Bulgari

Venice October 2019 10

15

INSIDER TIPS

the guide

GIFT GUIDE

24 SHOPPING

Don’t miss the first standalone boutique dedicated to the world of women’s accessories by Jimmy Choo.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

32 DINING

32

A breath of globalization has infused the lagoon thanks to the new chef at the Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses.

DINING

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TES

38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

THROUGH ART

22 ALL THE ALLURE

Although the 58th Art Biennale is nearly over, there are still lots of things to see and do, organized to coincide with the extravaganza.

Several charming destinations in Veneto, infused with nature, history and art.

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VENICE CITY GUIDE

SIGHTSEEING

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The entire life of famous Renaissance painter, Tintoretto, revolved around a circumscribed area of Cannaregio. It was here that he was born, lived, worked and was buried.

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO ITALY

www.whereitalia.com/venice

ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher will host a series of special events. The full program Where ® of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com)

“May you live in interesting times” The 58th International Art Exhibition is the major attraction in Venice for six months, occupying the city with monumental installations, inaugurations, exhibitions and a cornucopia of fringe events. The theme of this year’s edition, officially housed at the Giardini (Map I6) and Arsenale (Map H5) locations, is ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’. From 11 May to 24 November. www.labiennale.org

2  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 1

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 4 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 4  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 6 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 5 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


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pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561.

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 2 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 3

SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 7 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  5


ARSHILE GORKY. UNTITLED, SUMMER 1944. OIL ON CANVAS. COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM, VENEZIA

JACKSON POLLOCK. THE MOON WOMAN, 1942. OIL ON CANVAS. COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM, VENEZIA

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

OCTOBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

ART

PHOTO © ROLOFF BENY / COURTESY OF ARCHIVES AND NATIONAL ARCHIVES OF CANADA ARCHIVES

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PEGGY IN VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection celebrates the Venetian life of its founder, SEPTEMBER JANUARY highlighting the events and 2019 2020 exhibitions that marked the thirty years she spent in Venice, from 1948 to 1979, which proved to be significant milestones in the history of 20th century art. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni will display the majority of works that Guggenheim purchased between 1938, when she opened her first gallery in London, and 1947, when she moved to Venice. A unique opportunity to see her historic collection, almost in its entirety, from Marcel Duchamp to Francis Bacon (see also page 43). Peggy Guggenheim. The Last Dogaressa Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Dorsoduro 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it 6  W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019


PHOTO © TONY VACCARO / TONY VACCARO ARCHIVES

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EXHIBITION

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FLEMISH TREASURES

► The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces SEPTEMBER MARCH from Antwerp and other 2019 2020 Flemish Collections’ at Palazzo Ducale treats visitors to a breathtaking sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time.

From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale - Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it

TITIAN, PORTRAIT OF A LADY AND HER DAUGHTER, PRIVATE COLLECTION, ON LOAN TO THE RUBENSHUIS, ANTWERP © COLLECTIE STAD ANTWERPEN

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

THEATRE

FERDINANDO SCIANNA, MARPESSA, CALTAGIRONE, 1987 © FERDINANDO SCIANNA

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MASKS AND COMEDY ▼ Designed for an

international audience, and inspired by the tradition of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’, a theatrical art form built around masks, this comedy by Carlo Goldoni is a must-see performance staged at one of Venice’s oldest theatres. Supertitled in French and English, the lead player of the performance is Arlecchino, Venice’s most famous and irreverent mask, who experiences a series of adventures in a city inhabited by caricatures of figures, egocentric lovers, sycophantic servants and controlling mothers.

OCTOBER

Arlecchino and the Magic Ring Teatro Goldoni, San Marco 4650/ B (Calle del Teatro). www.teatrostabileveneto.it PH © SERENA PEA

PHOTOGRAPHY

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A REPORTER’S LIFE

▲ This retrospective is dedicated to renowned AUGUST FEBRUARY Sicilian photographer 2019 2020 Ferdinando Scianna, a key figure on the contemporary international scene, and the first Italian reporter to become a member of the prestigious Magnum photographic agency. The exhibition traces more than 50 years of the Sicilian photographer’s career through 180 black and white photos, divided into three sections, alongside a series of fashion images that Scianna shot in Venice, testifying to his close relationship with the Lagoon city.

Ferdinando Scianna. Journey Story Memory. Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 – Giudecca, Venezia. www.treoci.org

8  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019


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GLASS ART

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THE FRAGILE HATS OF THE DOGE

▼ ‘Thomas Stearns alla Venini’ is a beautiful retrospective SEPTEMBER JANUARY dedicated to the American 2019 2020 artist’s collaboration with important Venetian glassworks in the 1960s, resulting in a small series of unique glass objects. These include six of Stearns’s most famous pieces from ‘The Doge’s Hat’ and ‘Facades of Venice’ series presented by Venini at the 31st Biennale in 1962.

CLASSICA

Thomas Stearns at Venini. Le Stanze del Vetro. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. www.lestanzedelvetro.org

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THE DISCREET CHARM OF THE LAGOON

PH © ENRICO FIORESE

▲ The ‘Lo Squero’ on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore is an old workshop where boats were OCTOBER repaired. Transformed into a modern, picturesque Auditorium in 2016, it is currently hosting a season of chamber concerts featuring young talent. On 17 October, the Furiant Quartet (Germany) and British pianist Alexander Ullmann will treat audiences to pieces by Robert Schumann, Ludwig van Beethoven and Antonin Dvořàk. A great opportunity to listen to soothing music while admiring the sunset from the venue’s panoramic window that overlooks the lagoon.

OCTOBER 12 October La Fenice Concerts Season Opening 12-20 October Venice Design Week 17-26 October Venice Fashion Week 19 October Venice Hospitality Challenge 27 October Venice Marathon NOVEMBER 24 November Teatro La Fenice Opera and Ballet Season Opening with "Don Carlo" by Giuseppe Verdi 21 November Festa della Salute A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up.

Archipelago – Schumann, Beethoven, Dvořàk Auditorium “Lo Squero”. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore www.cini.it

DECEMBER 17-18 December Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists. 29, 30, 31 December and 1 January 2020 New Year’s Eve Concert 17th edition of the traditional Concert conducted by Myung-Whun Chung at the Teatro La Fenice JANUARY 2020 6 January Regata delle Befane A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro FEBRUARY 2020 8-25 February Carnival of Venice Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas.

APRIL 2020 25 April Festa di San Marco or Feast of St. Mark In addition to being a national holiday, this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city. MAY 2020 23-24 May Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ ceremony 31 May Vogalonga 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands 23 May-29 November Biennale Architettura 2020 “How will we live together?” will be the theme of the 17th International Architecture Exhibition. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  9


WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

Discovering Venice through art Although the 58th Art Biennale is nearly over, there are still lots of things to see and do, including special projects, fringe events and exhibitions organized to coincide with the extravaganza. A unique opportunity to discover the lesser-known places of the lagoon city and its surroundings. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

10  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

F

rom an artistic point of view, everything, or almost everything, that can be said about the Art Biennale, which opened last May and closes at the end of November, has been said. But the long-lasting effect of the event is also a great opportunity to lose yourself amidst the streets or islands of the lagoon, and discover unexpected corners of considerable beauty. The countless works of art, installations and collateral projects contribute to the multiplicity of interpretations that characterize the event. This is why we’ve decided to use them as a pretext to take you to places that although slightly off the beaten tourist track, are equally interesting.

If not Murano where else? Until 24 November, the former factories of Domus Vetri d'Arte, an astonishing example of industrial archaeology, will host Glasstress, a project by Adriano Berengo that combines contemporary art and glass. Now in its sixth consecutive year, this event gathers together internationally renowned artists in an ambitious project, whose aim is to explore the infinite creative possibilities of glass (http://glasstress.org). • Why go: an old abandoned furnace has been transformed into a unique exhibition space for works and installations that forge new trajectories for glass and contemporary art, on an island


ARTWORK BY TONY CRAGG FOR GLASSTRESS 2009, COURTESY BERENGO STUDIO

renowned for its manufacturing tradition. • While you’re there: visit the Murano Glass Museum, established in 1861 with the idea of creating an archive testifying to the history and life of the island. The Gothic-style building houses ancient and contemporary glass works, including precious Renaissance pieces, and an important collection of antique glass unearthed during excavations (https:// museovetro.visitmuve.it). Don’t leave the island without visiting the Basilica of Santi Maria e Donato, which houses an interesting Byzantine mosaic floor dating back to 1140, built at the same time as that of the Basilica of San Marco, featuring subjects inspired by the plant and animal world. It goes without saying that shopping is a must! While strolling along the two main canals, you’ll come across numerous small shops and glass factories, whose blaze of colours will catch your eye… and leave a dent in your wallet! If you’re looking for something authentic, keep away from shops selling touristy mass-produced items, and make sure that the item you’re purchasing carries the ‘Vetro Artistico di Murano’ trademark. If you don’t want to make a mistake and ensure that you’re taking home a real objet d’art, head to the boutique of the historic Seguso Vetri d’arte glass factory in Fondamenta Manin (https://seguso.com) or the Antica Vetreria Fratelli Toso, in Fondamenta Colleoni (https://fratellitoso.it). If you’re looking for somewhere to lunch or dine that’s in keeping with the mood of your tour, book a table at Versus Meridianem,

Seguso Vetri d'arte

Antica Vetreria Fratelli Toso w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  11


a restaurant and pizzeria housed in an old glass factory. The restaurant serves Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary twist in a picturesque ambience that has retained its industrial vibe, including large windows overlooking the lagoon and exposed bricks (www.versusmeridianem.com). • How to get there: depending on your point of departure, Murano can be accessed by four daily vaporetto lines and 1-night line. (http://actv.avmspa.it/it)

The new artistic district of Giudecca The large environmental installation of the Icelandic pavilion is located in an abandoned 12  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

© BARABANSCHIKOW ALEXANDER / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Belmond Hotel Cipriani

© PJT56

The origin of the name ‘Giudecca’ is uncertain: according to some it refers to the ancient settlement of a Jewish community, while others believe that the name may come from zudecà (judged), referring to a sentence issued in the 9th century by which land was allotted to rebellious families who were banned from Venice. The third hypothesis attributes the name to the presence of tanners on the island, and derives from the Istrian word zudeca.

Casa dei Tre Oci

warehouse on the Island of Giudecca. The exhibition, curated by the artist Shoplifter, is titled Sapiens Chromo, and comprises three large caverns of brightly-coloured synthetic hair, in which metal music resounds incessantly. An emotional, thoughtprovoking, site- specific experience. • Why go: the Island of Giudecca consists of eight small islands connected to each other by numerous bridges. It has a long ‘fondamenta’ or pedestrian quay running along the Giudecca canal, overlooking the Zattere. In bygone days, Giudecca was an island characterized by large ‘palazzi’, gardens, vegetable gardens and monasteries. In the early 20th century, it evolved into an industrial area with shipyards and factories. Following the decline of industry after

World War II, it became a quiet residential neighborhood. Today, it is home to a series of galleries, studios, ateliers and artisans’ workshops gradually transforming it into a flourishing destination for contemporary art. To coincide with the opening of the 58th edition of the Art Biennale, the city’s first permanent artistic district, the Giudecca Art District, was inaugurated. • While you’re here: although it’s a small island, Giudecca boasts a series of interesting landmark sites, making it easy to spend an entire day here. These include the Church of the Redentore, built as a votive temple to mark the end of the Plague which hit Venice in the summer of 1575. Inside you can admire paintings by several Renaissance masters including Tintoretto, Veronese,


COURTESY OF FONDAZIONE GIORGIO CINI

San Giorgio Maggiore

Vivarini and Brustolon. The Church of the Zitelle, designed by Andrea Palladio, is a little further on. Lying adjacent to the church is a convent, built as a hospice for poor young women (‘zitelle’ was local slang for ‘old maids’). The Casa dei Tre Oci, a magnificent example of early 20th century Venetian architecture has always been a place of artistic and cultural production, a space for meeting and discussion for artists and intellectuals visiting Venice. Today it is an exhibition space with a particular focus on photography (http://treoci.org). If Giudecca’s peaceful, picturesque atmosphere appeals to you, you can book

an overnight stay at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani, one of the most exclusive hotels in Venice, featuring a swimming pool, gardens and a breathtaking view over the lagoon (www.belmond.com). If you’re a fan of industrial architecture, an ideal place to spend the night is the Hilton Molino Stucky. Housed in a former flour mill, designed by a German architect, it has now been skillfully converted into a magnificent hotel without losing any of its original charm (www.molinostuckyhilton.it). Just a short distance away, you can recharge your batteries at Harry’s Dolci, the younger brother of the better-known Harry’s Bar.

It’s just as classy, but has a more relaxed atmosphere, and boasts a breathtaking view over Venice (www.cipriani.com). Alternatively, the historic Trattoria ai Cacciatori offers typically Venetian homemade cooking, with canal-side tables and a beautiful view over the Zattere (www.aicacciatori.it). • How to get there: the quickest way to get to Giudecca is by ferry from the Zattere stop. However, if you leave from Piazzale Roma, the Santa Lucia railway station or St. Mark’s Square, you can enjoy a pleasant cruise on the lagoon before disembarking at the Zitelle stop, the main stop on the island.

The peace of San Giorgio Maggiore

Versus Meridianem

In his solo show titled ‘Human’ at this year’s Art Biennale, Irish-born artist Sean Scully has decorated every centimeter of the Benedictine abbey of San Giorgio Maggiore (designed by Andrea Palladio) – including the gardens and the Benedictine monks’ library – with paintings, a manuscript of watercolours, sculptures and enormous multi-striped totems (www.abbaziasangiorgio.it). • Why go: although the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore is not really a tourist destination, a visit to this peaceful island is a must if you want to enjoy a unique view of Venice, if you’re a fan of Palladio, or if you simply need a break from the mainland’s crowded tourist centre. Scully’s exhibition is also an opportunity to visit the Church of San w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  13


WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS San Giorgio Café

Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. Check out the numerous exhibitions and events that take place year-round (www.cini.it). The San Giorgio Café is the only refreshment point on the island. Located inside the Foundation, it is open throughout the day, from breakfast to the aperitivo hour. The restaurant is open for dinner on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, subject to booking (www.sangiorgio.cafe). • How to get there: the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore can be accessed via a short vaporetto ride from the Island of Giudecca. Vaporetto line 2 connects the centre of the city to the islands of Giudecca and San Giorgio Maggiore.

© GOOGLE

Giorgio Maggiore, one of Andrea Palladio’s masterpieces, which, in addition to paintings by other famous masters, also hosts works by Tintoretto. • While you’re here: visit the Fondazione Giorgio Cini, an internationally renowned cultural institution. In the 1950s, Count Giorgio Cini transformed the island and acquired the ancient Benedictine monastery, which he converted into the headquarters of a centre for training and cultural and social activities. Today, the Foundation is a treasure trove housing literary, artistic, musical and archival treasures. It is a meeting point of the cultures and ideas that perpetuates the tradition of the Benedictine abbey and the

14  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

An opportunity to visit Forte Marghera As part of the Art Biennale’s special projects, Ludovica Carbotta has created a site-specific work in Forte Marghera. The fortress is a part of Mestre’s Campo Trincerato (Entrenched Field) which, for years, served as a defense system to safeguard Venice. Now owned by the City of Venice, it is used as a public park and a space for events and cultural activities. Titled Monowe (The Powder Room), Carbotta’s sculptural installation is housed in the former Austrian gunpowder store. In keeping with the symbolic power of the site – a building designed to protect the outside environment from its inner explosive content – Carbotta presents a new sculptural installation on warehousestyle shelving. The aim of the installation is to explore the ways in which human imagination can trigger powerful emotions, even when there’s no imminent danger. • Why go: discover a different, more melancholy and evocative side of the lagoon, far removed from the opulent ‘palazzi’ lining the Grand Canal. • Now that you’re here: Marghera is an industrial area and one of those places that’s usually off the tourist radar. In addition to Forte Marghera, the Parco di San Giuliano and the Parco Catene, home to several urban trekking trails, are also well worth a visit.

Forte Marghera is a 19th century fortress and a former military barracks, located approximately five kilometers from the centre of Venice, on the opposite side of the lagoon.


WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

◄ BULGARI The ‘Forever’ necklace, featuring 18kt rose gold open-worked petals embracing a precious central diamond, draws inspiration from the four-petal flower cherished in ancient Rome as a symbol of happiness. www.bulgari.com

GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! ®

► LORO PIANA This soft suede belt with calfskin details is characterized by a buckle featuring geometric stitching. The ideal complement to a sophisticated look. it.loropiana.com

◄ LOUIS VUITTON This men’s kit is part of the Au Hasard collection inspired by travel, one of the French maison’s recurring themes. To embody that feeling, Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud cultivates mystery by using sandalwood of exceptional quality. it.louisvuitton.com

▲ GIORGIO ARMANI This décolleté featuring a kitten heel comes in a floral fabric that recalls the pattern of the designer’s clothing line. A contemporary version of the classic slipper defined by a minimalist silhouette. www.armani.com

▲ NARDI The distinctive element of these ‘Venetian Window’ earrings in gold set with sapphires and diamonds is colour. A perfect example of exquisite Venetian goldsmithery. www.nardi-venezia.com

► MICHELE DE FINA This charming calfskin bag featuring minimalist lines can be hand-held or worn over the shoulder. Available in six colours: grape, kiwi, taupe, desert, light grey and turquoise. www.micheledefina.it

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  15


WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

gondola

All about the


8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 − metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from


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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric

elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  19


PH © REBIUS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

Burano, the rainbow island Burano is one of Venice’s islands. Much loved and widely photographed, it is famous for its handcrafted lace, colourful houses and crooked bell tower. The island is a picturesque oasis of peace, where you can sample delicious fish dishes and discover artists unknown to the public at large.

Many international tourism magazines have described Burano as ‘one of the 10 most colourful locations in the world’, but this island of approximately 3,000 inhabitants, located in Venice’s Northern Lagoon, northeast of Murano, is much more. While strolling through its narrow alleys and ‘campielli’ you’ll be struck by its old-world atmosphere. You’ll see elderly ladies making lace with a bobbin, children running around the streets beneath balconies on which the washing has been hung out to dry in the sun, and fishermen returning from their fishing trips laden with the catch of the day.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

BURANO’S COLOURED HOUSES The island’s typical brightly coloured houses are mostly square-shaped and built on two or three floors. Why are they so colourful? According to legend, fishermen painted their houses in rainbow hues in order to identify them from afar after returning from long fishing trips. While all the houses of Burano are brightly coloured, the house of Bepi Suà is the most colourful of them all. It is decorated with all types of geometric shapes, including

20  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

circles, squares and triangles, and is painted in multiple shades of yellow, orange, red and blue. If you want to visit it, you’ll find it behind piazza Galuppi, Burano’s main square. The house can be accessed via a narrow street that leads onto a small ‘campiello’ or square.

LACE, REAL WORKS OF ART Burano’s lace is among the most famous in the world. This traditional art dates back to the 1500s when marvelous masterpieces were created using only a needle and thread,

HOW TO GET HERE The best way to reach Burano from Venice is via vaporetto line no. 12. The vaporetto leaves from the Fondamenta Nove stop, located between the sestieri of Cannaregio and Castello, at the northern end of Venice. The trip lasts for about 40 minutes with stopovers on the islands of Murano and Mazzorbo. For more information visit Venetian transport website actv.avmspa.it


Bussolà mignon

with no cloth support. Following the fall of the Republic of the Serenissima, lace working suffered a serious decline, but was revived at the end of the 19th century when the new stitches that transformed the embroidery into real works of art, were introduced. This is an art form that continues to be handed down. To learn more about the world of Burano lace, you can visit the Lace Museum. The museum, located at Burano’s School of Lace, features a display of more than 100 exquisite items, several of which date back to the 16th century. While visiting the museum, you can also consult a historic archive and watch lacemakers at work (museomerletto.visitmuve.it).

THE HEART OF BURANO Burano consists of four islands, separated by three internal canals: Rio Pontinello, Rio Giudecca and Rio Terranova. Like Venice, it is divided into five ‘sestieri’ (districts), separated by the above-mentioned canals, on which the address code is based. The real centre of the town is piazza Baldassare Galuppi. The square is named after Burano’s revered composer of comic opera, Baldassare Galuppi, also known as ‘Il Buranello’. One of the square’s landmark attractions is the church of San Martino, the only official church on the island, renowned for its famous crooked bell tower, the result of a structural failure in its foundations. In addition to its ornate interiors, the church hosts several notable works of art, including a famous Crucifixion by Gian Battista Tiepolo. Located just a short distance away, another must-visit attraction is the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Today, it is used as a venue to host exhibitions and events.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT IN BURANO Because it was originally an island of fishermen, Burano is renowned, first and foremost, for its fresh fish dishes, including ‘spaghetti alle vongole’ or spaghetti with squid ink. Its most famous recipe is ‘risotto di Gò’, risotto cooked in the broth of the gò, a typical type of lagoon fish, known in the rest of Italy as ‘ghiotto’ or goby. Try it at one of the best traditional restaurants of the Lagoon, Trattoria da Romano (www. daromano.it). Burano’s trattorias are both typical and authentic, and you’ll probably eat better here, and at half the price, than at most tourist restaurants in Venice. In particular, we recommend Al Gatto Nero, which serves a fabulous assortment of fresh fish starters (www.gattonero.com), and Riva Rosa. The latter is located in the centre of the island, and offers a contemporary, fish-based menu. For romantic evenings, the restaurant’s special feature is a rooftop ‘altana’, a typically Venetian raised wooden terrace, with a small table and a breathtaking view (www.rivarosa.it). If you’re a fan of sweet treats, an absolute must is the island’s typical Bussolà dessert, made from flour, butter and fresh eggs. You can purchase it from Carmelina Palmisano, one of the island’s oldest and most renowned bakery/pastry shops in via Galuppi (www.biscotteriaveneziana.it).

FOR LOVERS OF LOCAL SHOPPING If you want to take home an exquisite item of lace, you’re in the right place. Lovers of local

Lace Museum

shopping will have a great time browsing the small shops and artisanal workshops scattered throughout the town. An absolute must is a visit to Emilia Burano, in piazza Galuppi. The story of Emilia Burano, is a story of a tradition and craftsmanship, since 1800. Its linen, handmade lace and items for the table, bathroom and bedroom, plus furnishings for yachts, private jets and boutique hotels, have won over Hollywood stars and resulted in prestigious collaborations including one with Aston Martin (www.emiliaburano.it). The same applies to the nearby La Perla Gallery, renowned for its collection of antique lace, exquisite, customizable tablecloths, home linens, furnishing accessories, beautiful silks for clothing and lingerie, children’s wear, exclusive cashmere, silk scarves and Venetian masks (www.laceinvenice.com). In addition to lace, Burano boasts a production of Venetian masks and lampworking, a technique that was invented in the neighbouring island of Murano, but is also widespread on the other islands of the lagoon. You’ll also come across real miniature glassworking factories, including New Arte Fuga, a store located at number 132 of the brightlycoloured Fondamenta Giudecca, hosted inside a charming apple green house.

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Bassano del Grappa

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa: rebuilt many times but always remaining faithful to Palladio’s 16th century original. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Verona


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  23


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In search of the perfect accessory In the beating heart of Venice, don’t miss the first standalone boutique dedicated to the world of women’s accessories by Jimmy Choo. By Giulia Minero

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f diamonds are a girl’s best friend, then shoes are definitely her favourite travel companions. The go-to address in Venice for luxury accessories is San Marco 1289, where renowned designer Jimmy Choo has opened a standalone boutique. The boutique, which was designed by the Christian Lahoude Studio of New York, features a perfect blend of luxury and Venetian tradition, where each detail has been meticulously designed to reflect the brand’s unique style. The store encompasses the whole world of the Jimmy Choo woman; shoes, handbags, eyewear, small leather goods and fragrances are all displayed against an alluring backdrop of luminous Istrian stone. Large crystal window displays showcase jewelled clutches to complete the most elegant evening looks, while the 24  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

footwear - the most famous product of this British brand - takes centre stage and is interpreted in every shape and form, including sneakers, iconic pumps and innovative, youthful sandals. Exquisite details in velvet, and lagoon-blue carpets strewn across typically Venetian ‘Terrazzo’ floors, take customers on a magical journey suspended between the past and the present making the Jimmy Choo boutique a place where the allure of the Serenissima and the treasure trove of a modern-day Cinderella combine to offer customers a unique shopping experience. >> www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop) Open daily 10am-7pm


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ANTIQUES Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS— Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5

DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4

Crafted in soft suede leather with matching tassels, FRATELLI ROSSETTI’s ‘Brera’ loafer is a tribute to Milan’s famous bohemian district.

26  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5 MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5


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with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also DELLA offers evaluations and certifiedCAMPO appraisals. Open San Cassiano PESCARIA Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San CAMPO Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA La Fenice). T: 041 BECARIE 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 CA LL CAMPO ED stop). Map E5 CA E C (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco CESARE BATTISTI L RI

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also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat CAMPO Al Duca d'Aosta S.MARIA NOVA 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. CAL LE L Aestablished Originally in Venice in 1902, Al Duca N RGA A N ZI A T: 041 2758694. C G. G San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) N ALL DA SA ZA IN A LI d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the SA Santa Maria R Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). IO DE Basilica dei Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, I M dei Miracoli Map IR SanE3Giovanni Santi Giovanni AC Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey e Paolo C A LL OL E DE CAMPO I L FO R Grisostomo NO location features over 100 top fashion A’ LE MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua CALLE CASTELVenice DE TI LA LI DELLA BO brands for men and Ewomen, Teatro Malibran PAOLO carefully selected BELLA VIENNA TA Ca’ Nova Antique books and priceless prints focusing CAMPO CA LL E to offer its These dell’Ospe DE LEclientele quality and elegance. SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa ER BE Boasting Cover 40 years in the industry, Ca' primarily on preservation and authentic CORTE SECONDA DE AM include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, P L San Giacomo DEL MILION Nova which CARAMPANE SA IEL means ‘new house’, has decorated bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP L NS O ON sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and BA RB AR IA DE LE TO di RialtoSpecializes in 18th century illustrated books, DE I several of Venice’s most elegant homes with LE CA Casa di women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories RA its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, MP maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th O CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO tablecloths DEL SOL and hand-woven sheets. Open Fontego NUOVO century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan dei Tedeschi Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; NO VA CA RA aesthetic. The store offers numerous special C. D LLE Sant’Aponal EL 12.30pm. www.canovatessutitendaggi.com. San EL F D www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle D C E A .M A ONT LP ET EGO RT IN IO M GH Pontedella Mandola). B O facilities and services for its customers, including EN RU GO Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line D. P SA CAL N G FO LE G ALL SA di Rialto CORTE E a Personal Shopping IA Z Z CAMPO N CAMPO IOVNDA service and Tax Free CORTE O AN ME DO Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 TREVISAN ZA CAMPO 1 or 2LIZ(Rialto Map E4 DEL NI NT ER SAN APONAL SAN stop). BORTOLOMIO DA LA A LP DEL VOLTO Shopping. Open Mon-Sat PRESTRIN TE PIO RA 10am-7.30pm; Sun DE CAMPO NO X E LL A SAN LIO C Rialto Le Zoie Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI IZ MicheleSAN Dal DEBon’s atelier is infused with FORMOSA ADA Artisanal weavers specializing in the production 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop CALL of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings (Rialto stop). Map F4 ZZO CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Fontego E L CA

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

28  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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CA

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de le

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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

LL E

LL

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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

E COLT

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE ALBERO

AS

E DE LL CA

CR OS ER A

CASTELLO

DO NA

L’AN ZO LO

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CA

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MP

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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

ZATT ERE

M E N TA

EL LO

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ENTA

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AN

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CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

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IA

CH

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CAL

NATER PIG

N SA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

R I VA D EGLI

EN

LE ST

RI

MI

LA

VONI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

100 m

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SC UO

COL

SCHIA

AM

CE

CALL

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

RIO TERRÀ

FO

TE PIC

DEGLI

DE

A DE AD SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

LE CAL

NI

LL

FOND

LLE

ENT A PON

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

SE ST ND

LL A

SALUT E

CA

CA

DAM

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

SAL IZAD A SAN

DE

CA LL E

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

LL E

GRIMANI CALLE INA DELF CALLE

IA

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

FEM

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

FO CA

N IO ST BA

RC

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZAD A SANTA GIUSTINA

CORTE DELLE GATE

IN MAR DE L’OS

VE

L DE

'EU

I PRET

E NUO

E LL CA

NT

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

RA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

I UD I SC GL E DE LL CA

SA

San Lorenzo

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

E GAT

N TA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

NCE

ASI DR

A N M

ZON

FRA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ENTA FONDAM

C. PIA NTON

R I VA

LE SAN

DE LE

ME

CALLE

FON

CAL

LLE CA

DA

Giudecca Palanca

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

IZADA SAL

Palazzo Ducale

Spirito Santo

ON

E DEL CAFE

CALLE BOSELLO

O

TO

FON DAM

mia

VE

CALLE ERIZZO

ONI CA

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CALL

Rio San Lorenzo

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San Giovanni Novo

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PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

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FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

VIN CALLE DEL

SC

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

GA SAN

CAL

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

NUOVA IO ED M L RE DE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

N

CORTE NOVA

RO VE N SE SA

RC

CORTE

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

ADA DEL FORN

CALLE DEL NAVARO

O SAN

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

E LL CA

L MO GLI

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

DE LE BAN

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

RIT

LE DE CAL

TA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FFA GIU

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani GA RU

E ALL

O

EN

DE LE TOLE

TA EN AM ND FO

TER

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

BI

ZAT

AM

Santa Maria del Pianto

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I OR

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DE

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AM

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Basilica di San Marco

MA

A DE RIV

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

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N

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

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NSION

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EN TA

LLA

FONDAM ENTA

AM

DE

TE

RL

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

FO ND

LLE

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CA

MB O D. PA LLE

GA

I

EN

BE

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l Palaz

LAR

I

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

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TO

IN

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

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RTIRI

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FONDA MENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

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O

BO

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Salute

OTT LE RID

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NT

CAL

CAL LE

C.SA

AM

LL

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

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Rio De

CA AN E BI LL CA

VAL

Santa Maria del Giglio

E DEL PISTOR

se Moi San

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CORTE BAROZZI

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CALL

MAR ZO

LE TRE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

A XXII

CAL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

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HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

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CORTE

ET

San Moisè

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CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CAMPO PISANI

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LE

G. GA LLI

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MICHIEL

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

ER

GO

NI LO EI BA C.D

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CAMPO SAN MOISE’

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CAMPO SAN LIO

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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

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LA

DE

CA

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Palazzo Giustinian Persico

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CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

a Can

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SE

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

●

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RA

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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

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CAMPO SAN ROCCO

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CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

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CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

FO

RI

EN

FO

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San Felice

S.Stae

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AM

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CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

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TER

AD

RG

N

CALLE CAZZA

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LA

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CAMPO DE LE ERBE

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San Simeone Profeta

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UNIQUE IN VENICE RIO

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CA

SA

BA

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CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

NO

AM

ND

IO

IN

DA

FO

DI

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BI AS

FO

AM

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

ST

Riva de Biaso

R

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

DE L

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

O VECCHIO CALLE TRAGHETT

San Geremia

Eredi Jovon

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI A

Eredi Jovon's cameo

Mo

LIDO DI V


SHOPPING Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen. com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Upholstered in a sophisticated velvet called ‘Fresie’, this lined cushion by TESSITURA BEVILACQUA has a zipper closure. An expression of superb Venetian craftsmanship.

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultrafeminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US 36 32 1 38 34 2 40 36 4 42 38 6 44 40 8 46 42 10 48 44 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8

Men clothes IT EUR US 50 46 36 52 48 38 54 50 40 56 52 42 58 54 44 60 56 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

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SHOPPING Ottica Manuela

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the

Crafted in butter soft calfskin, the new ‘Virtus’ by VERSACE is interpreted in a variety of colours and styles including shopping bags, top handle bags, belt bags, shoulder bags and evening clutches.

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first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana. com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4


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DINING

A gourmet island A breath of globalization has infused the lagoon thanks to the new chef at the restaurant on the Island of Roses. By Chiara Zaccarelli

T

he Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been reimagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. In bygone days, the island was a sanatorium, and Dopolavoro was simply a canteen for doctors and nurses. Nowadays, it’s a unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending 32  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

twenty years in the USA, and brings with him that touch of globalization. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Even the extra virgin olive oil – also available for purchase – is produced locally, thanks to the hundreds of ancient olive trees found on the island. Trabocchi’s signature dishes include Lobster Ravioli, Bassano White Asparagus and Caviar, Foie Gras alla Veneziana, ‘Moeche col pien’ (soft-shell crabs from the Venetian lagoon), Venetian Style Tuna Crudo and Vanilla Fried Pastry Cream. Guests can also enjoy Trabocchi's modern take on the classic Venetian cicchetti.

>> Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott hotel - Isola delle Rose www.jwvenice.com. T: 041 8521300

Fabio Trabocchi


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Antica Carbonera

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

It’s called “Vecio”, but it’s new

High-quality cuisine requires the finest, seasonal ingredients. For this reason, every day, Irina Freguia, the owner and brainchild of Vecio Fritolin, heads to the Rialto market to source the freshest meat, fish and vegetables. Formerly an old-style ‘bacaro’, or small unassuming tavern, where guests could savour a snack and a glass of wine, Vecio Fritolin has held pride of place in Santa Croce since the 18th century. Although it has now been transformed into a restaurant, it has lost none of the old-school charm that makes it one of the most pleasant places in Venice for a special occasion meal. The kitchen is manned by two chefs: Pierluigi Lovisa, boasting 40 years of experience in the business, is the ‘director’ of this historic locale, featured in guides worldwide, while Raffaele Minute, the young, creative soul of the restaurant, is more oriented towards experimentation, upgrading desserts, hors d’oeuvres and several other dishes served at the restaurant with a contemporary twist. Santa Croce, 2262 (Calle della Regina). T: 041 5222881. www.veciofritolin.it

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DINING

DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Pignolo

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fi sh-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

34  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

€€€. hand www.lacalcina.com. Hotel Calcina.in The of owner Eligioc/o Paties, is La apparent Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. line 2traditional or 5.1 (Zattere stop). MapisE6 The Venetian menu accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than La Conca d’Oro 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out Da Fiore some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top(restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s stop). Map F4 most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of La Porta d’Acqua carefully selected seasonal ingredients have Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on is housed in a 15th century building and decorated Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan stop). Map E3 cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. Gran Canal €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, you 1022/b Terà Silvestro). T: 041of 2412124. Here can(Rio taste theSan typical specialties Vaporettotradition, 1 (San Silvestro stop). E4expression Venetian featuring theMap purest of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus Lineadombra is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o (Salute stop). Map E5 Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Locanda Cipriani (San Marcowho stop). Map F5close to Venice, For those want to be yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani

Harry’s Bar is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a

Founded the 1930s, this legendary bar is simple yetinevocative atmosphere, it is popular renowned for its Bellini gourmets cocktails (originally among knowledgeable as a fantastic invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it Lineadombra

has beenon renovated with great charm, Perched the last bridge of the mostexuding beautiful an understated elegance with beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect country and fresh where flowers. €€€. www. spot for antiques a romantic dinner you can enjoy all locandacipriani.com. Santa Fosca 29 €€€. the typical flavours ofPiazza the Venetian lagoon. (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. from Nove direction Burano, stop) then T: 041Fondamente 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere take the 9 line). Off MapE5 or 1 (Salute stop). Map

Taverna al Do Remer Trattoria Forni

Located near to the Rialtohas Bridge, this romantic The owner Eligio Paties managed to make ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its destination, open-brick this restaurant a sought-after decor, which lends an intimate, informal touch. distinguished by itsit wide assortment of Venetian Although thetomenu featuresofsimple, traditional fare, thanks the quality the dishes and a dishes, it sense often surprises diners with unusual genuine of typically Venetian hospitality. pairings. Closed onwill Wednesdays. www. The dining spaces remind you€€€. of the alremer.it.of Cannaregio, 5701.“Orient T. 041 5228789. carriages the legendary Express” Vaporetto line 1 to (Ca’ d’Oro stop). and pay tribute the history of Venice. €€€. Map F3 www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line Trattoria Do Forni 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, Wildner distinguished byFullin its wide assortment Opened by the family in 1960, itofisVenetian fare, thanksby to locals the quality of the dishes patronized and tourists alike. and Its a genuine sense ofatmosphere typically Venetian hospitality. tranquil, relaxed is further enhanced Thea dining spacesview will over remind of the carriages by spectacular theyou Basin of St. of the legendary andand payserves tribute Mark’s. Its menu “Orient is mainlyExpress” fish-based to the history of Venice. €€€.including www.doforni.it. San classic Venetian specialties ‘Baccalà Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 on 5232148. Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed Vaporetto €€€. line 1c/o or Pensione 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 Tuesdays. Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Wildner or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Dal Mas and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Located a few minutes from the‘Sarde railway includingjust ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and in Saor’. station, thisTuesdays. pastry shop a triumph of Closed on €€€.offers c/o Pensione Wildner. traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 to try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan Map G4dei Dogi’ and or croissants, 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva

This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San La Conca d’Oro Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Since that time, this Venetian institution has www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), been turning out some of the best pizza in T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www. The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Italiane specialties traditional Venetian dishes. T: 041www.kempinski.com/it/venice 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Filippo Giacomo). T:and 041 5229293. Vaporetto Map F4 lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola.

Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space.

Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Fiola at Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chruch of Madonna dell'Orto

Tintoretto’s district The entire life of famous Renaissance painter, Tintoretto, revolved around a circumscribed area of Cannaregio. It was here that he was born, lived, worked and was buried. By Chiara Zaccarelli

B

efore circling it on a map or asking someone how to get there, remember that ‘Tintoretto’s district’ doesn’t officially exist in Venice. During his prolific career, Jacopo Robusti, better known as ‘Tintoretto’, received numerous commissions from churches, brotherhoods, the Republic and noble families throughout Venice. Many of his works, which today would be known as ‘site-specific’, are still housed in Venice, in the places for which they were conceived. For this reason, the whole city can be considered a widespread Tintoretto museum. However, a fairly circumscribed area, including a handful of streets in the heart of the Cannaregio district, which represent the beginnings and ending of the famous artist’s career, exists. 38  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

The artist was born here in 1518 at number 3399 of the Fondamenta dei Mori, where he lived until his death in 1594, when he was buried in the church of Madonna dell’Orto, just a few blocks away. Although the 15th century Gothic building where Tintoretto lived bears a plaque in his memory, it’s off-limits to the public. However, you can visit his workshop next door, which serves as an atelier for painting, graphics and printing, and also organizes exhibitions, conferences, courses and seminars (www. tintorettovenezia.it). From here, just a little further on, a small bridge leads to the church of Madonna dell’Orto, considered one of Venice’s hidden gems, where Jacopo and his family are buried. Tintoretto worked on numerous paintings for the church including the

Last Judgment, the Worship of the Golden Calf and the Presentation of the Virgin Mary at the Temple. www.madonnadellorto.org

Tintoretto workshop


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

www.teatrolafenice.it

Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www.canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande. it, or ask your concierge.

■ OPERA 1, 4, 6, 9 October IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA by Gioachino Rossini Francesco Ivan Ciampa, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Lauro Crisman, sets & costumes Vilmo Furlan, light designer 2, 8 October LA SCALA DI SETA by Gioachino Rossini Alvise Casellati, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Accademia di Belle Arti of Venice, sets & costumes 3, 5 October MADAMA BUTTERFLY by Giacomo Puccini Daniele Callegari, conductor Àlex Rigola replicated by Cecilia Ligorio, director Mariko Mori, sets & costumes Albert Faura, light designer 24, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31 October and 2, 3 November LA TRAVIATA by Giuseppe Verdi Stefano Ranzani, conductor Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets & costumes Philippe Girardeau, choreography ■ CONCERT 10 October at Malibran Theater ELUSIVE AFFINITY with Anna Gourari & Susanne Bernhard Music by Joseph Marx, Arvo Pärt, Johannes Brahms, Alban Berg, Alfred Schnittke, Richard Strauss Susanne Bernhard, soprano Anna Gourari, piano ■ CONCERTS SEASON 2019/20 OPENING 12, 13 October Music by Ludvig van Beethoven Alpesh Chauhan, conductor Andrea Lucchesini, piano Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 18, 20 October at Malibran Theater Concert Federico Maria Sardelli Music by Ludwig van Beethoven

22 October at Malibran Theater MUSICA CON LE ALI with Itamar Golan & Lara Biancalana Music by Claude Debussy, Robert Schumann, Johannes Brahms, Bohuslav Martinů 27 October at Malibran Theater MUSICA CON LE ALI with Gaia Gaibazzi, Claudio Laureti & Giuseppe Andaloro Music by Lovreglio, Schumann, Bassi, Mozart Gaia Gaibazzi, clarinet Claudio Laureti, viola Giuseppe Andaloro, piano ■ CHAMBER MUSIC 5, 6 October at Sale Apollinee LA VENEXIANA Music by Barbara Strozzi and Georg Fridrich Händel Emanuela Galli, Monica Piccinini, sopranos Davide Pozzi, cembalo Gabriele Palomba, theorbo and musical direction 13 October at Sale Apollinee VISTUOSITY IN MUSIC – Ensemble Vivaldi/ISolisti Veneti Music by Vivaldi, Tartini, Bottesini, Ponchielli, Paganini, Pasculli Louis Lortie, piano 28 October at Sale Apollinee HÈSPEROS PIANO TRIO IN CONCERT Music by Fryderyk Chopin 30 October at Sale Apollinee Louis Lortie in recital Music by Alfredo Casella, Giuseppe Martucci Filippo Lama, violin Stefano Guarino, cello Riccardo Zadra, piano ■ BALLET 27 October Galà Les Italiens de l’Opera de Paris VeneziainDanza 2019 - XII edition Coreographs by Angelin Prejlocaj, Mac Millan, Petipa, Mauro Bigonzetti, José Martinez, Ben Von Cawemberg, Manuel Legris, Simone Valastro Michela Barasciutti, artistic conductor

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center

of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing)

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Giudecca

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

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Castello

San Marco

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari.


| SIGHTSEEING

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Artistic Glass in Murano

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

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de le

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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

DI

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

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PIETRO

DEI CORTELLOTTI

Giardino delle Vergini

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FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

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CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

San Martino

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

MOROSINA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

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CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

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Arsenale di Venezia

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Palazzo Genovese

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San

CALLE

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CALLE DEL PESTRIN

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CALLE

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LA

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DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

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CALLE

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QUERIN,

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zera

Scomen

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MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

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ALBANESI

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CALLE

CALLE

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CALLE

SESTIERE FOSCARI

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RIO TERÀ CAZZA

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De

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MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

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Maritt ne

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DONA

DE

SAN

L’ARCO

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ONI

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DE

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CASTELLO CASE

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CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

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FONDAMENTA

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SESTIERE

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DE L’OGIO

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SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

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Sant'Eufemia

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CORTE DELLE GATE

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CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà VONI

Spirito Santo

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LE VIGNOLE

NUOVE

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CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

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VERONA

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CASE

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

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LA

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A

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San Giovanni di Malta

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San Giorgio dei Greci

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DEI PRETI

San Zaccaria

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DE

Palazzo

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DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

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San Lorenzo CAMPO SAN LORENZO

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Palazzo Ducale

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DE CALLE

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CORTE

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San Giovanni Novo

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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SAN

SAN

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

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CORTE

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

RC

DEL CAFETIER

CALLE ERIZZO

LIO

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

Museo Correr

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Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

CALLE

DEL FORNO

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CAPPELLO

SAN

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

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CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

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CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

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CORTE

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

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BARBARIA

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NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

Rio San Lorenzo

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San Moisè

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

NTA

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

SAN

LICINI

MEZO

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CORTE DELLE ANCORE

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CAMPO SAN MOISE’ XXII MARZO

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DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

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Bacino Orseolo

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

MOISE’

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

PIOMBO

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

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CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione SALIZADA

BEMBO

SA

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PONTE

SACCA SAN

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

ORBI

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL

CALLE

D. PALLE

GIAZZO

CAMPO SAN LIO SALIZADA

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

PISCINA

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CALLE

LARGA

CASTELLI

DEI

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

CALLE

DOLERA

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

REMER

CALLE

CALLE

DEI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

WIDMANN

RIO

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Teatro Malibran

FONDAME

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CHIESA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

SAN

DELLA

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

SAN

CALLE

DE

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLO

LA

TODESCHI

SPIRITO

CALLE

DE

C. DEI

CALLE

CALLE

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ALLO

MAZZINI

CORTE

TEATRO

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CALLE

San Maurizio

FALIER

San Vidal

C.SANT'AGNESE

FONDAMENTA

TEATRO

CALLE

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

BOTERI

VARISCO

SESTIERE

C.

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

Accademia

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SALIZZADA

Rialto

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAL

RAMO

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

San Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CALLE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

PRIULI

ORESI

RUGHETA

PERDON

de r an

NARISI

DEL

PISCINA

CROSERA

LE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

FOND.

DE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

ZATTERE

Zattere

NOVE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

SAN

CROSERA

S. Samuele

NANI

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

IA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUTI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR

CALLE

LONGO

Abazia della Misericordia D

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TRAPOLIN

STUA

PARANGON

CALLE

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LA

MORETTI

LA

MADONA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

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CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

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CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

S.

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

LEZZE

SALIZADA

LE

Ca' Rezzonico

CALLE

ER

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DE LA

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CA’ CORTE

DE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

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Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CARAMPANE

FORNO

CAZZIOLA

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

FONDAMENTA

PONTE

LE

Sant'Angelo

CALLE RAMO

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

VENEZIA M

FONDAMENT

VENDRAMIN

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

DE

ZATTERE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ DE

Can

DEL

FOND.

FODAMENTA AL

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

L’AGNELLA

CAMPO SAN POLO

San Tomà

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CALLE DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

TA

San Cassiano CAMPO

SAN CASSAN

C.

SCALETER

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

CALLE CHIESA

EN

CA'

DEL

CAMPO SAN STIN

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

S. Basilio

DELLA

AM

DE

San Felice

DE

DEL

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CALLE BERNARDO

D

A

A

CALLE

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CROSERA

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

N

FONDAMENT

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

C.

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

TOMÀ

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

NA

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

RUGA

SAN

CA

NA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

FABBRICHE

TERÀ

LE

ALE

RAMO

PRETI

L’ASEO

NIE

DD

CALLE

DEL

Rio Nuovo

TABACCHI

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

.DA

MA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

ZANE

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CALLE

LA

S.Stae

CALLE

SAN

DEI

FO

À D E

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

RENIER

FOMO

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

LE

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

della

Rio

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

DE

PAPADOPOLI

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

Rio

CALLE

SOTOPORTEGO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

NUOVO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

IA

La Maddalena

NOVA

C.

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

Rio

RD

R

STRADA

CHI

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

RAMO

BASEGO

RIO

ICO

TENTOR

SAN POLO

CALLE

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

TRON

DEL

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

MEZO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

MINOTTO

SAN

Rio

SAN

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

TINTOR

SALIZADA

DORSODURO

C.

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

DEL

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMAS

SIMEONE

Angelo Raffaele CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

C.VENZATO

LA

LACA

Magazen

CALLE

MIS

L’ISOLA

CALLE

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

LARDONI

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

LA

SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

TA

E DEL PISTO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

VECCHIO

C.

DEI AMAI

San Nicola da Tolentino

Del

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

NICOLO’

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

LARGA

PONTE SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

DE

Rio dei Tolentini

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

RIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Carmini

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

SALIZADA

del

NS

AM

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

FONDAMENTA

Soranzo Cappello

LA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

SE

ND

I

San Marcuola

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENT SAURO Soranzo Capello A GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

DE

FONDAMENTA

CERERI

LER

DEL REMER

RIO

C.

SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CALLE

PROCURATIE

DEI

LUNGA

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

ER LE P

EONARDO

CAMPIELLO

BARI LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

CAMPO

Rio

PENSIERI

DE L’OGIO

EN

Museo Ebraico CAL

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

BIASIO

DI

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DEI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

AM

CANNAREGIO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NUOVE

CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CASE

ND

INE

SPAGNA

I CALLE ORSETT

TERÀ

TERÀ

MADONA

ZZ

FO

DIA

CROCE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

Sensa FO

PU

San Girolamo

MISERICOR

RIO

LA

CA

SAVORGNAN

LA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

LE

O

DE

CROCE

CALLE

MARTA

DE

AM

San Geremia DI

TERÀ

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

TA

OL

NA

S A N TA

TERÀ

EN

SE

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

AM

N G IR

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

A E M

People Mover Venezia

ND

SA

LLO

LL

MERCATO DIREZIONE

di Sant'Alvise

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

LISTA RIO

VENIER FONDAMENTA

AM

B AT

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

DEI

Ferrovia

DEL SABION

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

CALLE

BECCARIE

TA

I

Santa Maria di Nazareth

SANGIANTOFFETTI

LE

EN

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAVALLETT

CA

AI

FONDAMENTA

FORNER

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

CORTE

DEL

ND

della

COLETTI FO

Canale

GIOBBE

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

CALLE ZUCCHERO

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

FONTEGO

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO

SALITA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

O

LARGA

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHETT

ZATTERE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CALLE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

EREMITE

ER

FONDAMENTA

Parco

B

ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

LI

FONDAMENTA

LA

NANI

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

FOSCARINI

LE

FONDAMENTA

A

People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

TERRÀ

VI

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

CALLE

ER

Ponte

B

ERBE

LI

IA

MURANO CALLE

LA

LE

EL

DE

D

del

LE

CALLE

A

Rio

VI

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA

MESTRE

Museo Di Torcello

Chiesa di Santa Fosca 100 m

C A M PA LT O

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

TORCELLO

ISOLA

MAZZORBETTO

BAGARON

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Canal

Teatro La Fenice

VAPORETTO

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DEL

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard. As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects,

CALLE

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

CAL

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

RA

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www. basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

ST

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

FONDAMENTA DI SANTA CATERINA

T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

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Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

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FAUSTA


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo

Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing

Discovering Verona and Lake Garda

Arena di Verona

with a tour of Verona, its surroundings and Lake Garda. The tour includes transportation by van and an expert guide who will enlighten you about Veneto’s most beautiful places. The first stop is Verona, where you’ll take a walking tour of the city with a historic guide. Participants will also be given the option of taking a guided tour of the Arena. peaceful place on the Mincio river featuring small characteristic houses and riverside mills where you can lunch while sampling local products and wines. Before returning to Venice, you’ll be driven to Sirmione, on Lake Garda, for a tour of this picturesque city and a short cruise around the peninsula. The Verona and Lake Garda Tour, headed by local guides, is one of the excursions offered to visitors of Venice by Veronality, a tour operator since 2014. In addition to the above, Veronality also offers a Tour of Prosecco and a Tour of the Dolomites. All tours depart from Venice. www.veronality.com

42  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former

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The experience continues with a tour of a small town, a

and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Sirmione


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century

collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  43


PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2019

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  45


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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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Palazzo Soranzo Capello

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CALL

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People Mover Venezia

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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

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ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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CORTE

RS RÀ

CALLE

FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

CALLE

TREVISAN

SAN CALLE

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FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

C.

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

C.

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL

PICCOLO

REGINA LA

SALIZADA

DEL

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

DE

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA DE

DE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

CALLE

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

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CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO

SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

MUNEGHE

LE DE

CALLE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

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DA PONTE

FONDAMENTA

ra

CALLE

LL

CA

SANT'ELENA

MP

CA

O

CA

GE

JUNGHANS

Rio

N

NO

SA

I

TA

Le Zitelle

E

Parco delle Rimembranze LL

SANT'ELENA

EN

TI

AM

C

D

BO

N

LI

LL

SA

TE

BB

ZI

TA

E

EN

NT

IE

FONDAMENTA

MP

O

AM

CA

U I P

E

M

LL

IN

ND

E

CA

C.

OC

Santa Croce

VIALE PIAVE

CR

RD

CALLE

SA

CALLE

IA

PONTE

TA

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

G

CALLE

EN

E

CORTE

AM

ND

AL

FIANCO

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO Giardini

S. Giorgio

VI

SAN GIACOMO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

ALDI

CALLE

O

ACCADEMIA

A

IST

LL

Lungo

CE

R L C

IB PE GAR

DE

NA

ION

FONDAMENTA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

C.

RI

MA

BB

IAN

RE

TA

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

SA

RI

CO

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

SE

C A L L E C ATA PA N

TE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

AN

CALLE

I

EL

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CH

FONDAMENTA

LE

San Francesco di Paola BALD CALLE

I S ET

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

DE

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

EN

CROCE

MI

Ponte

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

AM

DELLA

E

ERBE

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

C. LOREDANA

ND

CALLE

LL

LE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

DE

RAMO DE

Punta della Dogana

FO

Redentore

O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

FOND

DE LA

CROSERA

M E N TA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

VIDA

CALLE

PICCOLO

LA

CASTELLO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

DI

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

IA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

San Martino

DEI FORNI

PIETRO

FEM

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

Arsenale di Venezia RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

MOROSINA

SAN

'EU

MARTIN

PESTRIN

CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

NT

SCUOLA

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

GRITTI CALLE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

SA

CALLE

CALLE

CROSERA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

TA

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

SAN PISCINA

PIGNATER

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

Giudecca Palanca EN

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

AM

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

ND

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

S C H I AV

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

FO

COSMO

ANTONIN

DE

ZATTERE

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

R I VA D EGLI S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà VONI

100 m

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DEGLI

DEGLI

CALLE BOSELLO

VERONA

RIO

CALLE

San Lorenzo

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

C.

LA

MINELLI

PISCINA

DEL NOVA ISOLA

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

Scomenze

MARITTIMO

Canale

De

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

O

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DE

San Gregorio

CALLE

DEI PRETI

CALLE

CALLE

GATE

ZORZI

DRASI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CALLE

DEI

DEI

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RC

SALIZADA

C.

LATERANO

SEVERO

a

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

DEL

PISCINA

VERONA

A N M

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SA

MEZO

DE CALLE

RUGA

DIREZIONE

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

Palazzo Ducale

LO

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

SAN

O

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

MO

RIVA

Rio San Lorenzo

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

Marittim

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

Museo Correr

FONDAMENTA

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

PIA

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

SAN

FABBRI

LARGA

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

ORBI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

DEI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

DEL

San

CALLE

Rio

LA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

BOTERI

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

CALLE

BEMBO

CALLE

DE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

SAN

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

Ca' Giustinian

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

RIO

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

CALLE

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

DEL

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

REMER

CALLE

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

MAGAZZINI

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

O DEL

CINQUE

RIO

CALLE

AI

DEI

C.

DEL

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

COCCO

TOSCANA

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

DE

MOISE’

CALLE

DE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

RI

Palazzo Genovese

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE

Stazione

ORESI

MADONA

SAN

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

MAZZINI

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

TEATRO

CALLE

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

DEL

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

SAN CALLE

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

FABBRICHE

CALLE

DOLERA

SPIRITO

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

LE

CALLE

zera

CATERINA

CALLE

GALIZZI

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

ALLO

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

SANTA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Giudecca Hilton

CATENE

S.ANDREA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

ZATTERE

VAPORETTO

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

NARISI

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

AI GESUATI

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

STURION

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LE

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

ZATTERE

DEL

LA

CAMPO DE LA

DEL SOL

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

C.

FOND.

SAN

CROSERA

San Vidal

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

VENDRAMIN

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CALLE

CALLE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON

CALLE

de r an

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LA

CARAMPANE

DEL

DEL

FONDAMENTA BONLINI

LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

DE

DE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA'

DEL

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

SESTIERE

S.

CARROZZE

al G

Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

TRAGHETTO

DE

O

San Felice

TIOZZI

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Can

DEL

FOND.

PONTE

IC

CALLE

DEI

DE

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

Accademia

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

ER

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

CALLE

S. Samuele

FALIER

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

IS

TRAPOLIN

DE

Santa Fosca

S.Stae

DE

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

M

FONDAMENTA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

TA

NA

La Maddalena

CALLE

TENTOR

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

DEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

SAN

AM

SOTOPORTEGO

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

C.

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CALLE BERNARDO

D

MORETTI

DE

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CROSERA

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

N

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CALLE

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

Rio Nuovo

TABACCHI

PRETI

San Barnaba

NA

CALLE

SAN

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DEI

L’ASEO

CA

DONZELA

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

LE

ALE

LA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

RENIER

FOMO

.DA

MA

SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

LA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

San Pantalon

CALLE

CALLE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

DEI

FO

À D E

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

TINTOR

CALLE

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

Bacino

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE

Scomen

RIO

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

Canale

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

della

Rio

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

DEI

LUNA

RAMO

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

Rio

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BARI

CAMPO

CANAL CORTE

LA

DEI AMAI

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

IA

CALLE

C.

BESAGIO

RD

R

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

BIASIO

DI

RIVA

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

MINOTTO

Magazen

SAN

Rio

SAN

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

NUOVE

San Nicola da Tolentino

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SALIZADA

San Simeone Profeta

NUOVA

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

LARGA

PONTE CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

C.

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

ICO

RIO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CALLE

CASE

CALLE

CERERI

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della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

VECCHIO

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TERÀ

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Ferrovia

LUNGA

PROCURATIE

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CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

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CORTE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

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I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

MIS

NOVA

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DI LISTA RIO

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

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San Simeon Piccolo

CROCE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FONDAMENTA

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SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

TA

E DEL PISTO

STRADA

LA

TERÀ

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Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia

DE

RIO

LA

AM

I

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

LER

NA

CROCE

CALLE

NICOLO’

NS

Rio

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAVALLETTI

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

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TA

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

EN

CANNAREGIO

SE

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

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AM

San Girolamo

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

A E M

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Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

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PU

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CA

DEL

LE

O

CALLE

DE

AM

MATTIA

TA

OL

SAN

EN

LL

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People Mover Venezia

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SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

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TA

LLO

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FO

EN

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DOGE

AM

B AT

CALLE

ND

TA

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

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EN

SEBASTIANO

DEL

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

BRAGADIN

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ND

della

COLETTI

FO

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CAMPO SAFFA

DE

Rio

CARLO

FO

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SAN

San Giobbe

SAN

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

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VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

VECCHIA

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

RUGA

Parco

B

SANT'AGNESE

LI

BRAGADIN

LA

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EL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

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LE

INCURABILI

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P

O

N

A

SA

TA

M

IA

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

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SAN MICHELE

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11

S. Servolo

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VI

A

DE

LL

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SP

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IO

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AR

IN

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Hundertwasser' Garden

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NI

A

NA

D

A

LM

A

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A

NI

A

AR

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AR

M

ZO

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EL

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LO

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IE

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GL

VI

GU

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VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VI

A

VIA

CA

ND

IA

SANDRO

LU

NG

OM

AR

O SE LV

PO

VI

VIA

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

CO

GALLIPOLI

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JA

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

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IS

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

LU

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

M

O

RO

SI

N

I

N

I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

AR

O

EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

LI

TI

AN

DR

LU

A

EA

CA

LM

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CO

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AR

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S. Antonio Di Padova

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EN

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TA

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San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

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Parco delle Rimembranze VI

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OR

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6 PONTE DI RIALTO

11 LIDO DI VENEZIA

2 PALAZZO DUCALE

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

12 THE GHETTO

3 CANAL GRANDE

8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

13 MURANO

4 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE

14 BURANO

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GN

A

Sant'Elena

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PA

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Teatro Verde

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LE

EL

ERA

AR

GEN

ENA

IA

SAN T'EL

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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TI

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ND

IO

C.

FO

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

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C

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LA

LI

IO

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CA

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Japan Pavilion

BB

PIZ

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AN

UE

EL

SQ

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CH

E

GR

MI

LL

MO

E

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CA

RA

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AN

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Top in Town

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S MA

SAN GIORGIO

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MA

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United States Pavilion

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EL

PO

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Russia Pavilion

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PI

M CA

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N

CC A

LL

AM

VI

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LL

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CA

CA

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Le Zitelle

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LE

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NA

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MA

DE

CO

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RE

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

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CALL

RI

C

V TA

SANT'ANNA

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ALDI

AR

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GIUSEP

TT

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Punta della Dogana

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IN

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI

CALLE

DE

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VA

VIALE

NA

PO E COP

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CALL

CALL

SALUT E

I

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

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LE

OS E CR

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DELFINA CALLE

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San Francesco di Paola

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GRIMANI CALLE

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ESSO

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VAL

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EPPE

CAL

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CALL

CALLE

RTIRI

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IUS VIA G

FONI

ST

E

FONDAME

MARA

CALL E

CA

ION

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

100 m

SAL IZAD

ARSENALE RAMO DE

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

DI

TAN A

A RO SA

O

EN TA

LE

E LA RG

CALL

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DE LA

TA A R SE

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TR

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CAM PO

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Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

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ENA

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LA

ARS

N

DE

E N TA

SA

LARG

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

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DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

AL

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

CA LL E

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

DEI ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

FONDAMENTA

NI

FON

FONDAMENTA

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CAL LE

ini

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Verg

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

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San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

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Rio de San Gerola

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E LL CA

CR OSE RA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

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AM

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

FO ND

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

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4

Giardino delle Vergini

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CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RI

NDAM ENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

RE

L’AN ZO LO

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo

DE

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

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enta

CALLE ZORZI

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NU

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M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

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DE LL A CO RO NA

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CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

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A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

DE

DE ADA SALIZ

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Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

LE CAL

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TT

zo

LE

OLO

an Moisè

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CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

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CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

LL E

CAL LE

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

SE

AL CAV

OR

Museo Correr

ENTA FONDAM

CA

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

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DEL

TA

l Palaz

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EN

Palazzo Ducale

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

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RI BB FA

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RC

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LE CAL

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Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

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IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

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GA SAN

1

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LE CAL

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RI BB I FA DE

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CALLE DEL FIGHER CO

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San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

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or

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San Lorenzo

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ST

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NUOVA

San Giuliano

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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FRUTARIOLI

FON

CAL

CALLE ERIZZO

LE DE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

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Rio San Lorenzo

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CALL

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

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CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

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MAZ ZINI

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Santa Maria del Pianto

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

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Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

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Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4

Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4

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Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice VENIC Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – E CITY GUIDE Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Lost Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Venicin e Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)

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